I only use fine sandpaper with the jfj. Loads of water and for 10 second cycles at a time. Then reapply water. Works for me great. Then use the buffing pad
PS3 games are unique in that they are Blu-ray Discs (as opposed to most other disc-based games that are DVDs). Blu-rays have a hard coating on them to protect them from scratches which is why you typically don’t see many scratches on PS3 games (and why they are harder to polish down in a resurfacing machine). When you DO see a lot of scratches you can be sure that the previous owner really abused the game and the risk of it not working is significantly higher. Furthermore, the data layer on a Blu-ray is much closer to the “bottom” of the disc than on a DVD so even a small amount of sanding can damage the data and make the game unreadable.
I agree. Blu-Ray has a different coating that prevents them from being fixed. Numerous times game stores have given away PS3 games that were scratched before you can’t fix them
Whenever I get my hands on stinking video game cases that spent way to much time in a house filled with awful smoke, I find that dumping the cases (after having removed the games, manual and the box art of course) in hot water mixed with vinegar does a decent job at helping remove some of the stench as well as removing some of the disgusting yellowish stains left by smoke.
If your JFJ machine is like mine, it's trashed. I bought one brand new, days ago, after watching your videos, and noticed inconsistent results. I couldn't get it to do anything the same twice in a row. Got the pads wet, used a lot of compound, used little compound, you name it, it was just inconsistent. I slept on it, and the next day, I noticed that the part of the machine that you attach the game disc to, with the spring behind it, would get stuck if you pushed it all the way down. Instead of compressing and then extending, the plate, arm, and spring would get stuck., So, I cleaned it, and it was harder to get stuck, but I noticed that it would do the same thing if you compressed it down 1" or less. The plate and spring would just stay in place. This is problematic because that's how the machine works-this spring and plate pushes against the buffing pad, providing constant pressure. If the mechanism gets stuck, it's not doing anything. I can get my machine stuck in about three different places, and it's brand new. If you look at the bolts that act as hinges or pivots on that mechanism, you can see the issue: they are not real bearing surfaces. They are just holes where pins go into. On my machine, if you press the spring and plate mechanism down, you can see gaps on one side of the pin at the hole, and when you release the plate mechanism, the gaps go to the other side of the hole. Basically, because of manufacturing and design issues, my machine gets stuck so that it won't put pressure on the disk against the buffing plate. If you took those four pins and holes and actually put bearings there, or at least a bushing, the mechanism would work properly, but because it's just sloppy holes that are probably not precision aligned, the mechanism gets stuck. Take your plate and spring assembly and push it up and down with very gentle force. You can feel flat spots on my machine, where the plate and spring assembly gets hung up and is not smooth in operation. Instead of gliding up and down, the action is very jerky and inconsistent, and I can get my mechanism to freeze in several of these flat spots. It's like having a bearing with flat spots, but there's not bearing or bushing, it's just bad alignment, bad built quality, and tolerance stack up. If you look at how the mechanism is secured to the lid, you can see that it's riveted. That's cheap and quick, but I suspect it's one of the issues on my machine-things are out of place 1mm at a time, and when you add these 1mm quality control issues up, you get a machine that does not resurface disks the same every time or at all. Make sense? I recorded a video of mine sticking in case my return of the machine goes badly Edit: I bought some penetrating oil with lithium spray to see if I could just oil the pins at the holes, it did nothing. My mechanism hangs up at three points still, and so what is happening is that the plate isn't pressing the disk against the buffing pad with consistent pressure. In my machine, you have to run disks 5-6x to get it to do anything at all because the mechanism arm is doing nothing at all but seizing up. If you run the machine enough times, for me, the arm frees up enough to do some work. Half the time, too, the mechanism won't go UP, so the force against the buffing pad is too great and it's ruining disks by overbuffing them. Just F'n Junk Easy Pro
I've gotten consoles that smell of cigarettes before. If you take them and put them inside a closed container with dryer sheets for a few days it does a good job neutralizing the odors.
So I was thinking of reselling video games. So you basically own all the consoles of the games that you own? meaning if you do see a game for sell for example if its in Nintendo DS ( that is probably selling high on the market) . Do you usually buy that if you do not own the console? My question is I dont own any gaming consoles and am interested in re-selling video games. How can I sell them knowing if they work or not ?
Hey Common Lad great Video as always! Cool insight :) I also do sell video games here in Germany. I have a question about your testing phase: When you put the games in how long do you let them run before you mark them as tested? I have it oftentimes with PS3 games that they need installing before you can even get to the main menu. That always takes a lot of time. How do you guys handle this problem. Thanks for your help. Greeting from Germany Jack ;)
If you can reach the Main Menu without any problem, then you can count the game as "Tested". Getting the Main Menu to load is the equivalent of playing the game for 15 minutes in 99,9% of cases. Do not waste time actually creating a new save file and playing a few minutes.
Be cautious with goo gone because it’s oil based; making it hard to remove after use. If you don’t remove it completely the oil can seep or transfer to paper causing a grease spot
Man you are working it too hard. Get an Elm Eco Pro 2. Real heavy scratched games I sand in the JFJ 10 seconds and finish off in the Elm. Use lemon pledge furniture polish to get rid of the smell and it also gets the goo from sticker residue off. If you can find one get a Checkflix disc certifier. I can test around 60-100 games and hour from start to finish. I still test on consoles but I want to make sure the game works all the way not just to the load screen. I have a store on Ebay in the US. I only sell part time but I only clean, test and list about 2 hours a day and still get on about 50 - 100 listings a week depending on how much I want to work on the weekends.
Wow, what a waste of time. This video should be called this how I ramble on about cleaning and getting scratches out and don't test anything. I have a feeling he doesn't know what test means.
Would anyone be interested in an app I just developed where with a single photo dropped into the app or taken with your phone can identify and accurately price like 10 video games at a time? its helping me flip games off Facebook marketplace and eBay cus I don't have to look any games up anymore lol
I only use fine sandpaper with the jfj. Loads of water and for 10 second cycles at a time. Then reapply water. Works for me great. Then use the buffing pad
PS3 games are unique in that they are Blu-ray Discs (as opposed to most other disc-based games that are DVDs). Blu-rays have a hard coating on them to protect them from scratches which is why you typically don’t see many scratches on PS3 games (and why they are harder to polish down in a resurfacing machine). When you DO see a lot of scratches you can be sure that the previous owner really abused the game and the risk of it not working is significantly higher. Furthermore, the data layer on a Blu-ray is much closer to the “bottom” of the disc than on a DVD so even a small amount of sanding can damage the data and make the game unreadable.
I agree. Blu-Ray has a different coating that prevents them from being fixed. Numerous times game stores have given away PS3 games that were scratched before you can’t fix them
Whenever I get my hands on stinking video game cases that spent way to much time in a house filled with awful smoke, I find that dumping the cases (after having removed the games, manual and the box art of course) in hot water mixed with vinegar does a decent job at helping remove some of the stench as well as removing some of the disgusting yellowish stains left by smoke.
Ditchit app is my go-to now. No more misleading descriptions like on eBay! 😊
If your JFJ machine is like mine, it's trashed. I bought one brand new, days ago, after watching your videos, and noticed inconsistent results. I couldn't get it to do anything the same twice in a row. Got the pads wet, used a lot of compound, used little compound, you name it, it was just inconsistent.
I slept on it, and the next day, I noticed that the part of the machine that you attach the game disc to, with the spring behind it, would get stuck if you pushed it all the way down. Instead of compressing and then extending, the plate, arm, and spring would get stuck., So, I cleaned it, and it was harder to get stuck, but I noticed that it would do the same thing if you compressed it down 1" or less. The plate and spring would just stay in place.
This is problematic because that's how the machine works-this spring and plate pushes against the buffing pad, providing constant pressure. If the mechanism gets stuck, it's not doing anything. I can get my machine stuck in about three different places, and it's brand new.
If you look at the bolts that act as hinges or pivots on that mechanism, you can see the issue: they are not real bearing surfaces. They are just holes where pins go into. On my machine, if you press the spring and plate mechanism down, you can see gaps on one side of the pin at the hole, and when you release the plate mechanism, the gaps go to the other side of the hole.
Basically, because of manufacturing and design issues, my machine gets stuck so that it won't put pressure on the disk against the buffing plate. If you took those four pins and holes and actually put bearings there, or at least a bushing, the mechanism would work properly, but because it's just sloppy holes that are probably not precision aligned, the mechanism gets stuck.
Take your plate and spring assembly and push it up and down with very gentle force. You can feel flat spots on my machine, where the plate and spring assembly gets hung up and is not smooth in operation. Instead of gliding up and down, the action is very jerky and inconsistent, and I can get my mechanism to freeze in several of these flat spots.
It's like having a bearing with flat spots, but there's not bearing or bushing, it's just bad alignment, bad built quality, and tolerance stack up. If you look at how the mechanism is secured to the lid, you can see that it's riveted. That's cheap and quick, but I suspect it's one of the issues on my machine-things are out of place 1mm at a time, and when you add these 1mm quality control issues up, you get a machine that does not resurface disks the same every time or at all.
Make sense? I recorded a video of mine sticking in case my return of the machine goes badly
Edit: I bought some penetrating oil with lithium spray to see if I could just oil the pins at the holes, it did nothing. My mechanism hangs up at three points still, and so what is happening is that the plate isn't pressing the disk against the buffing pad with consistent pressure. In my machine, you have to run disks 5-6x to get it to do anything at all because the mechanism arm is doing nothing at all but seizing up. If you run the machine enough times, for me, the arm frees up enough to do some work. Half the time, too, the mechanism won't go UP, so the force against the buffing pad is too great and it's ruining disks by overbuffing them. Just F'n Junk Easy Pro
Maybe im a little late out but did you use sandpaperpad on the discs?
Great video! Keep up the hustle👍🏻
I've gotten consoles that smell of cigarettes before. If you take them and put them inside a closed container with dryer sheets for a few days it does a good job neutralizing the odors.
So I was thinking of reselling video games. So you basically own all the consoles of the games that you own? meaning if you do see a game for sell for example if its in Nintendo DS ( that is probably selling high on the market) . Do you usually buy that if you do not own the console? My question is I dont own any gaming consoles and am interested in re-selling video games. How can I sell them knowing if they work or not ?
Hey Common Lad great Video as always! Cool insight :) I also do sell video games here in Germany. I have a question about your testing phase: When you put the games in how long do you let them run before you mark them as tested? I have it oftentimes with PS3 games that they need installing before you can even get to the main menu. That always takes a lot of time. How do you guys handle this problem.
Thanks for your help.
Greeting from Germany
Jack ;)
If you can reach the Main Menu without any problem, then you can count the game as "Tested". Getting the Main Menu to load is the equivalent of playing the game for 15 minutes in 99,9% of cases. Do not waste time actually creating a new save file and playing a few minutes.
@@Mitia_k Is this true just for the PS3 or other console games?
@@ddcristo This method is also valid for other consoles
apply more compound and replace your buffing pads
Great video watching from Zambia 🇿🇲
You have to buy new pads for the repair machine
Be cautious with goo gone because it’s oil based; making it hard to remove after use. If you don’t remove it completely the oil can seep or transfer to paper causing a grease spot
Man you are working it too hard. Get an Elm Eco Pro 2. Real heavy scratched games I sand in the JFJ 10 seconds and finish off in the Elm. Use lemon pledge furniture polish to get rid of the smell and it also gets the goo from sticker residue off. If you can find one get a Checkflix disc certifier. I can test around 60-100 games and hour from start to finish. I still test on consoles but I want to make sure the game works all the way not just to the load screen. I have a store on Ebay in the US. I only sell part time but I only clean, test and list about 2 hours a day and still get on about 50 - 100 listings a week depending on how much I want to work on the weekends.
Thanks for the tips!! I will look into some of this stuff. Sounds like you are killing it!
Wow, what a waste of time. This video should be called this how I ramble on about cleaning and getting scratches out and don't test anything. I have a feeling he doesn't know what test means.
Would anyone be interested in an app I just developed where with a single photo dropped into the app or taken with your phone can identify and accurately price like 10 video games at a time? its helping me flip games off Facebook marketplace and eBay cus I don't have to look any games up anymore lol