Bee Vac Dimensions: Bucket size: 6 Gallon, Hose insert hole in bucket: 2.25, Hole bottom edge 5" from bottom, side supports 3" x 3/4 lumber, Baskett: 13" tall, 9 5/8 dia, Top Ring 1.25 x 9 5/8 ext dia., 7" ID., Lid 9-5/8(same as basket), hose insert parts: 1" x 3 long nipple (grey), 1" thread to 1-3/4 PVC adapter, 1-3/4 adapter or 1-1/2 coupler big dia part on outside, not sure which it is, 1 1-2 PVC thick wall for small PVC insert w 45 deg end cut 2/3 accross end.
Cool video! HillCo makes good stuff! I was looking at those and I think he mentioned there may be a solid bottom as well but it would require unscrewing the screened part. There is a pollen trap that I think is coming for it soon as well! I often wish some of these cool bottom boards came in 8 frame sizes.
Hi Brian. I thinik Ceracel makes their plastic bottom in 8 size. You might look into that. HillCo is a great company. I really like their stuff too. Yeah, he said something about a pollen trap and that's what those side entrances are for. Thanks for watching!
Hey GEEZBEEZ. I sure will. I really like HillCo's line of equipment. They do good business. Flow has stopped here - probably because of the rain, but it had been slowing. I noticed they cut the alfalfa to the north of me. I actually had a robbing frenzy this morning when I reduced a queenless hive and was putting a brood frame into it. Craziness how fast things change. lol TAke care.
Hi Jennifer. Yeah, love me some HillCo sales. I'd like to get my hands on one of those new bottling valves he came up with. Last I looked they were sold out. Thanks for watching!
My bottom boards are the same type from Hilco and I slide in a piece of rigid foamboard to seal for OA and for winterizing too. I also use the plastic outer covers on my 32 hives. PS - I also run slatted racks on everything so vaporizing is easy too.
Hi Mike - that's a good tip with the foam board. Is there any specific type you use? Thickness? I'm going to build me some bottom shims and drill an OA hole in there.
Thanks for the presentation on the bee vac. I built a robo vac similar to the one mr ed uses that works with my shop vac. Im interested in yours because it is more compact and portable. I may try to re-purpose an old HF shop vac (small one) that i cant find bags for anymore.
Hi RTX. Yeah, this one is lightweight and good to travel with. I'm glad I bought an extra basket for it. I need to get me a bigger extension that fits on there better instead of the duct tape trick. lol Sounds like a good repurposing project.
I like how the top cover is slanted so water won't pool on top of it. My only concern is how well will bricks sit on it? I live in a wind tunnel and without bricks holding them down they would be gone😅
Hi DJ. Yeah, I didn't realize they were slanted myself unti I opened the box. I put bricks and other stuff on top of my hives as well. Once they propolize it though, it's hard to pop the lids sometimes. We'll see.
@@JeromeBeeFarm My bricks sit on top ok, my issue is that during inspections I usually sit a box on the flipped over outer cover... but these being slanted can tip slightly.
I like to do the same thing. Flip the lid from the hive I'm inspecting on to the hive next to it and use it for a hive stand. That won't work with these. I do have a portable hive stand I use as well though. The 'Bee Mate'
Darren, i have never had a need for bee vac, do not do cut outs.. i can hardly hit a nail, so i will let you make these things, i like the looks of the plastic bottom boards, just might try them, take care buddy!
Hey Billy Boy. The bee vac is also great for hard to reach swarms up high. Especially when you use that long pvc extension. I've used it for four different swarms this year.
I agree screened bottom boards tend to rot... its the one piece of equipment I've had to replace in my 10 years of beekeeping... probably due to poor design more than anything too many cut edges exposed. Could wax moth and hive beetles get through the bottom? It looks more like a plastic queen excluder and more open than wire mesh.
Hi Nancy. I think hive beetles could get thru it, but not wax moths, I dont' think anyway. If he comes up with a solid insert, I'll be going to that. My main deal was just to avoid rot. Thanks for watching.
A bit of a warming, I have several of the Bee Smart plastic lids and when it rained this winter they filled with water. I never drilled a hole in them (for the feeder) but somehow they are full and I can't get the water out.
Hi Jennifer. That's strange. There must be a pin hole in there and they are filling with condensation or something. I'd just drill a little drain hole in there. We'll see how these work out. Thanks for watching.
I had a similar problem with a couple of the BeeSmart lids, but drilled a hole on the underside corner edge then stood them up and all the water drained. Then siliconed the holes shut.
@@jmom5735 I actually emailed BeeSmart asking for instructions on filling the lid with foam and they were not encouraging it due to expansion risks (too full = splits)
Hi Dave. Yeah, I wasn't crazy about plastic as well, until I had all of these rotting problems. I'll always stay with wood for my main boxes and frames though. Yeah, those lids Bob makes are made of some primo wood. I looked around here a little and couldn't find any of that type of lumber. Thanks for watching.
I bought a few plastic screened bottom boards and noticed several issues within a few months. While using ratchet straps to move the hive, the sides caved in under the pressure, and permanently warped it. The gap in the corrugated board makes OA with my InstantVap impossible even with my hole in my slatted racks. The gap is just too big. I don’t like the plastic bottoms and ended up going back to the Mann lake wooden ones.
Hi Reighbrooks. I was thinking the same about the OA, but then I think you may be able to put a clamp on there and pull that insert up in the back so that gap isn't there, at least in the back. I can see how a ratchet strap would mess with it moving it around. I haven't moved any of my hives, so I shouldn't have that problem. I did buy a little trailer a few years back with that intent, but never got enough hives to load it out. lol Thanks for watching.
I think the high temps of OA equipment could damage them too. I placed a shim against mine to protect it from the back but if someone does a front entrance treatment it could melt it.
Hi Jerome I am working on a home improvment project but you mis 100% of the shots you dont take so thought I would ask you my question those shop vacs are usually only for 5 gallon buckets but my question to you is if I just want to use this a a shop vac do you think it will have a high chance of being compatible with a 6 gallon bucket or larger capacity I would think it really would not be to much of an issue as long as the bucket top fist securley on the larger size bucket ? ( again I am trying maybe thing that to use the thing as a shop vac 5 gall may be small so my question is do you think 6 gallons or larger is possible to use as a shop vac as long as the lid is secure thoughts please thank you ) ? any ideas please thank you
Come on Jerome it’s 11/2 pvc pipe 11/2 pressure couple pvc 11/2 x 3/4 female pvc bushing all schedule 40 and a 3” threaded nipple sry bud it’s the plumber in me… good videos
Bee Vac Dimensions: Bucket size: 6 Gallon, Hose insert hole in bucket: 2.25, Hole bottom edge 5" from bottom, side supports 3" x 3/4 lumber, Baskett: 13" tall, 9 5/8 dia, Top Ring 1.25 x 9 5/8 ext dia., 7" ID., Lid 9-5/8(same as basket), hose insert parts: 1" x 3 long nipple (grey), 1" thread to 1-3/4 PVC adapter, 1-3/4 adapter or 1-1/2 coupler big dia part on outside, not sure which it is, 1 1-2 PVC thick wall for small PVC insert w 45 deg end cut 2/3 accross end.
Cool video! HillCo makes good stuff! I was looking at those and I think he mentioned there may be a solid bottom as well but it would require unscrewing the screened part. There is a pollen trap that I think is coming for it soon as well! I often wish some of these cool bottom boards came in 8 frame sizes.
Hi Brian. I thinik Ceracel makes their plastic bottom in 8 size. You might look into that. HillCo is a great company. I really like their stuff too. Yeah, he said something about a pollen trap and that's what those side entrances are for. Thanks for watching!
Keep us posted how you like the plastic bottoms. They look good quality. I’ve had good luck with Hillco products. Thanks for the video. Take care.
Hey GEEZBEEZ. I sure will. I really like HillCo's line of equipment. They do good business. Flow has stopped here - probably because of the rain, but it had been slowing. I noticed they cut the alfalfa to the north of me. I actually had a robbing frenzy this morning when I reduced a queenless hive and was putting a brood frame into it. Craziness how fast things change. lol TAke care.
Good stuff👍
Thanks Kajun. Have a nice weekend.
John is an awesome guy, really cares about his customers. I bought a HillCo extractor from him at Hive Life Conference in 2022 and it's awesome.
Yeah, I'm a big HillCo fan myself. Maybe I'll meet him some day.
You know your bees tho that’s what matters here.. good job
Thanks!
I got four of each one of the hillco items as well. I would like to thank you and geezbeez for informing us about hillco.
Hi Jennifer. Yeah, love me some HillCo sales. I'd like to get my hands on one of those new bottling valves he came up with. Last I looked they were sold out. Thanks for watching!
My bottom boards are the same type from Hilco and I slide in a piece of rigid foamboard to seal for OA and for winterizing too. I also use the plastic outer covers on my 32 hives. PS - I also run slatted racks on everything so vaporizing is easy too.
Hi Mike - that's a good tip with the foam board. Is there any specific type you use? Thickness? I'm going to build me some bottom shims and drill an OA hole in there.
@@JeromeBeeFarm Mine is (I believe) 1" thick rigid foam board with the silver backing on one side.
Thanks!
Thanks for the presentation on the bee vac. I built a robo vac similar to the one mr ed uses that works with my shop vac. Im interested in yours because it is more compact and portable. I may try to re-purpose an old HF shop vac (small one) that i cant find bags for anymore.
Hi RTX. Yeah, this one is lightweight and good to travel with. I'm glad I bought an extra basket for it. I need to get me a bigger extension that fits on there better instead of the duct tape trick. lol Sounds like a good repurposing project.
I like how the top cover is slanted so water won't pool on top of it. My only concern is how well will bricks sit on it? I live in a wind tunnel and without bricks holding them down they would be gone😅
I use straps.
Hi DJ. Yeah, I didn't realize they were slanted myself unti I opened the box. I put bricks and other stuff on top of my hives as well. Once they propolize it though, it's hard to pop the lids sometimes. We'll see.
@@JeromeBeeFarm My bricks sit on top ok, my issue is that during inspections I usually sit a box on the flipped over outer cover... but these being slanted can tip slightly.
I like to do the same thing. Flip the lid from the hive I'm inspecting on to the hive next to it and use it for a hive stand. That won't work with these. I do have a portable hive stand I use as well though. The 'Bee Mate'
Darren, i have never had a need for bee vac, do not do cut outs.. i can hardly hit a nail, so i will let you make these things, i like the looks of the plastic bottom boards, just might try them, take care buddy!
Hey Billy Boy. The bee vac is also great for hard to reach swarms up high. Especially when you use that long pvc extension. I've used it for four different swarms this year.
I agree screened bottom boards tend to rot... its the one piece of equipment I've had to replace in my 10 years of beekeeping... probably due to poor design more than anything too many cut edges exposed. Could wax moth and hive beetles get through the bottom? It looks more like a plastic queen excluder and more open than wire mesh.
Hi Nancy. I think hive beetles could get thru it, but not wax moths, I dont' think anyway. If he comes up with a solid insert, I'll be going to that. My main deal was just to avoid rot. Thanks for watching.
A bit of a warming, I have several of the Bee Smart plastic lids and when it rained this winter they filled with water. I never drilled a hole in them (for the feeder) but somehow they are full and I can't get the water out.
Hi Jennifer. That's strange. There must be a pin hole in there and they are filling with condensation or something. I'd just drill a little drain hole in there. We'll see how these work out. Thanks for watching.
I had a similar problem with a couple of the BeeSmart lids, but drilled a hole on the underside corner edge then stood them up and all the water drained. Then siliconed the holes shut.
Same! Will try drilling hole in corner. Thx for the tip! What do you think about shooting some spray foam in there before closing up the drain hole?
@@jmom5735 I'd be careful with that foam stuff. It really expands and it goes in so easy. It might deform it as it expands and sets up.
@@jmom5735 I actually emailed BeeSmart asking for instructions on filling the lid with foam and they were not encouraging it due to expansion risks (too full = splits)
Personally I don’t like using plastic products, but I understand the draw. I’d like to try those hive lids that Bob Binnie is selling.
Hi Dave. Yeah, I wasn't crazy about plastic as well, until I had all of these rotting problems. I'll always stay with wood for my main boxes and frames though. Yeah, those lids Bob makes are made of some primo wood. I looked around here a little and couldn't find any of that type of lumber. Thanks for watching.
I bought a few plastic screened bottom boards and noticed several issues within a few months. While using ratchet straps to move the hive, the sides caved in under the pressure, and permanently warped it. The gap in the corrugated board makes OA with my InstantVap impossible even with my hole in my slatted racks. The gap is just too big. I don’t like the plastic bottoms and ended up going back to the Mann lake wooden ones.
Hi Reighbrooks. I was thinking the same about the OA, but then I think you may be able to put a clamp on there and pull that insert up in the back so that gap isn't there, at least in the back. I can see how a ratchet strap would mess with it moving it around. I haven't moved any of my hives, so I shouldn't have that problem. I did buy a little trailer a few years back with that intent, but never got enough hives to load it out. lol Thanks for watching.
I think the high temps of OA equipment could damage them too. I placed a shim against mine to protect it from the back but if someone does a front entrance treatment it could melt it.
I will be building some 1" shims to put on below the first box for the OA treatments.
Have any of the plastic lids blown off yet
Had a big storm and they didn't move. They are still in the box. LOL
Hi Jerome I am working on a home improvment project but you mis 100% of the shots you dont take so thought I would ask you my question those shop vacs are usually only for 5 gallon buckets but my question to you is if I just want to use this a a shop vac do you think it will have a high chance of being compatible with a 6 gallon bucket or larger capacity I would think it really would not be to much of an issue as long as the bucket top fist securley on the larger size bucket ? ( again I am trying maybe thing that to use the thing as a shop vac 5 gall may be small so my question is do you think 6 gallons or larger is possible to use as a shop vac as long as the lid is secure thoughts please thank you ) ? any ideas please thank you
How did the hillco medium frames work out for you
The ones I just built? They all got drawn out except one, the one stacked four high, the flow stared slowing and they didn't get to it.
@@JeromeBeeFarm the ones that you got from hillco
I got deep frames from HillCo. Piercing double waxed. They are working great. Lots of wax on them.
@@JeromeBeeFarm thank you. I thought I would ask you about them before I invested into them. Thanks again
They are great, in fact, I just ordered another 30 and the dripless honey gate.
Come on Jerome it’s 11/2 pvc pipe 11/2 pressure couple pvc 11/2 x 3/4 female pvc bushing all schedule 40 and a 3” threaded nipple sry bud it’s the plumber in me… good videos