I have 2 of them. They never run right, everything is wonky. And they don’t look right for some reason. Even the rolling stock is off. I have a few R.H. Climax engines and they run smooth and slow.
Thanks for posting this. While these kits aren't very difficult to assemble to produce a static display model, it still takes an extensive set of high quality tools and a craftsman level of knowledge, skill, time and patience to build one in a way that it works well. For example, getting the worm gear and idler to mesh properly would take some very tedious careful filing and test fitting of the motor mount surfaces to bring the gear into proper mesh. The gear mesh and backlash are critical if the locomotive is to operate smoothly, especially if the layout has steep grades. There are some cost conscientious engineering and manufacturing in this kit, similar with other mid-grade old kits like Bowser and Mantua, that limit how well the locomotive kit's parts can be put together to operate out of the box. The lack of precision frames and bearings for the driver axles in the cast frame is one serious drawback. The quality and fit of the cast cylinder, cross head and main rod are particularly suspect on this kit. Those plastic rod pins are another marginal idea. Fitting NWSL gears and other parts is an improvement, but that takes time , tools, and skill also. There are high quality kits out there, like DJH from the UK, but they are few and far between. High quality North American prototype kits are extremely rare now. I bought a slightly newer version of this exact kit off evil-bay recently. While I may eventually build the actual kit, I originally acquired mine, along with a PFM / United Models Ma&Pa 2-8-0, with the intent of using both as a guide / general pattern to scratch build a 'class' of 4 similar 1890's era brass Baldwin 2-8-0 freight locomotives for my small turn of the century era layout. Before I get to that project, however, I'm working on scratch building 4 passenger and freight 4-4-0's from an old Bachman 'Jupiter' model's dimensions and drawings of the V&T's Inyo, Genoa, Reno, and Dayton. Besides all the resources of the internet, I have a good knowledge of how an actual steam locomotive works, plus years of experience as a tool and die machinist. I have a small machine shop at home - milling machine, lathe, band saws, scroll saw, mini sheet metal shear, brake, and roller, belt sander, bench grinder, polishers, die grinders, air compressor, micro sand blaster, air brushes, resistance soldering machine, hand soldering tools, etc. and all manner of precision small hand tools - precision files, drills, reamers, threading taps and dies, screwdrivers, knives, etc., and a wide selection of micro screws, wire, metal sheet and bar stock, and other hardware, I'd still say building one of these kits to operate as good as some of today's ready to run locomotives would be a challenging undertaking not to be taken lightly by anyone. If part of the pleasure comes from the building and overcoming the kit shortcomings and improving on the basic parts design, fit, and function, then these kits can be enjoyable. If the goal is to just have a good running finished locomotive, it is far better to just buy a RTR modern high quality plastic or brass model.
I think you should try to convince the club to put a Tsunami2 decoder along with marker lights, cab light etc and maybe even upgrade the motor along with some super detailing. I would love to see it!!
Thank you Gary. I use NWSL quite a bit. I didn't get the new gears for this because the club I belong to uses it as a static display. Maybe at some point if they want to run it, I'll buy them.
i have a problem with a Roundhouse old timer 2-6-0 I just picked up. it appears that the geared driver is 180 degrees out of position on one side. Help!?
I just pickup one of these today from my local hobby shop for $30 dollars. It was so cool that I didn't care if it ran or not. But when he told me and showed me it ran I just had to have it. Do you know anything about these locomotives ?
MDC Roundhouse was a one guy show for a long time. The oldest kits are entirely die cast; the tenders didn't have floors. The Old Timer series was based on Baldwin catalog locomotives and they resemble thousands of locomotives from the late 1800s through the end of steam. Nearly all the threaded fittings are #2, so they can be drilled and tapped for more precise assembly. The motors are Sagami open frames until the 1990s when some can motors crept in. The Old Timers are styrene molded over a diecast weight and the boiler/frames/cylinders are all pretty much the same except for the milling for drivers-2-6-0, 2-8-0, and 4-4-0 on the same frame. Others are generally based on SP, ATSF, and Pennsy locos. They are stout, inexpensive and can look really good considering.
You wasted over 5 minutes unpacking the kit, brainlessly rambling, hoping all the parts are there, looking for a date on the paperwork…. All irrelevant to building the kit. You should have attended to all of this before you turned the camera on, checked for all the parts and have them ready in order for the assembly, and so forth. Unfortunately, most UA-cam videos are like this, disorganized, and time wasting.
Those ho train kits are aggravating
I have 2 of them. They never run right, everything is wonky. And they don’t look right for some reason.
Even the rolling stock is off.
I have a few R.H. Climax engines and they run smooth and slow.
A wonderful Video.
Thank you for sharing
Best greetings Franz
Thanks for posting this. While these kits aren't very difficult to assemble to produce a static display model, it still takes an extensive set of high quality tools and a craftsman level of knowledge, skill, time and patience to build one in a way that it works well. For example, getting the worm gear and idler to mesh properly would take some very tedious careful filing and test fitting of the motor mount surfaces to bring the gear into proper mesh. The gear mesh and backlash are critical if the locomotive is to operate smoothly, especially if the layout has steep grades. There are some cost conscientious engineering and manufacturing in this kit, similar with other mid-grade old kits like Bowser and Mantua, that limit how well the locomotive kit's parts can be put together to operate out of the box. The lack of precision frames and bearings for the driver axles in the cast frame is one serious drawback. The quality and fit of the cast cylinder, cross head and main rod are particularly suspect on this kit. Those plastic rod pins are another marginal idea. Fitting NWSL gears and other parts is an improvement, but that takes time , tools, and skill also. There are high quality kits out there, like DJH from the UK, but they are few and far between. High quality North American prototype kits are extremely rare now.
I bought a slightly newer version of this exact kit off evil-bay recently. While I may eventually build the actual kit, I originally acquired mine, along with a PFM / United Models Ma&Pa 2-8-0, with the intent of using both as a guide / general pattern to scratch build a 'class' of 4 similar 1890's era brass Baldwin 2-8-0 freight locomotives for my small turn of the century era layout. Before I get to that project, however, I'm working on scratch building 4 passenger and freight 4-4-0's from an old Bachman 'Jupiter' model's dimensions and drawings of the V&T's Inyo, Genoa, Reno, and Dayton. Besides all the resources of the internet, I have a good knowledge of how an actual steam locomotive works, plus years of experience as a tool and die machinist. I have a small machine shop at home - milling machine, lathe, band saws, scroll saw, mini sheet metal shear, brake, and roller, belt sander, bench grinder, polishers, die grinders, air compressor, micro sand blaster, air brushes, resistance soldering machine, hand soldering tools, etc. and all manner of precision small hand tools - precision files, drills, reamers, threading taps and dies, screwdrivers, knives, etc., and a wide selection of micro screws, wire, metal sheet and bar stock, and other hardware, I'd still say building one of these kits to operate as good as some of today's ready to run locomotives would be a challenging undertaking not to be taken lightly by anyone. If part of the pleasure comes from the building and overcoming the kit shortcomings and improving on the basic parts design, fit, and function, then these kits can be enjoyable. If the goal is to just have a good running finished locomotive, it is far better to just buy a RTR modern high quality plastic or brass model.
I wish i could see more people building these awesome kits!
I just got the narrow gauge version of this kit which I will do a video on
AKA elite 194? I just got one of these on ebay can't wait to get started .
great project!!!
I think you should try to convince the club to put a Tsunami2 decoder along with marker lights, cab light etc and maybe even upgrade the motor along with some super detailing. I would love to see it!!
Man, I wish I can get my hands on these! I just can never find them. On eBay, yeah, but I don't trust that website too much.
Northwest Short Line still has gears for it. I bought my first one of these 1-1976.
Thank you Gary. I use NWSL quite a bit. I didn't get the new gears for this because the club I belong to uses it as a static display. Maybe at some point if they want to run it, I'll buy them.
It would be great if we could see how to convert the 2-8-0 to DCC
It wouldn't be hard. I never converted this to DCC, because it belongs to the club I go to. They use it as a display. Thanks for watching.
Are you gonna dcc it? Also I have the narrow gauge outside frame version of this kit
No. It just sits at the club I belong to.
i have a problem with a Roundhouse old timer 2-6-0 I just picked up. it appears that the geared driver is 180 degrees out of position on one side. Help!?
North West Shortline has a tool called the Quarter for that problem. Very simple to use.
I just pickup one of these today from my local hobby shop for $30 dollars. It was so cool that I didn't care if it ran or not. But when he told me and showed me it ran I just had to have it. Do you know anything about these locomotives ?
Not much, but they are fun to build.
MDC Roundhouse was a one guy show for a long time. The oldest kits are entirely die cast; the tenders didn't have floors. The Old Timer series was based on Baldwin catalog locomotives and they resemble thousands of locomotives from the late 1800s through the end of steam. Nearly all the threaded fittings are #2, so they can be drilled and tapped for more precise assembly. The motors are Sagami open frames until the 1990s when some can motors crept in. The Old Timers are styrene molded over a diecast weight and the boiler/frames/cylinders are all pretty much the same except for the milling for drivers-2-6-0, 2-8-0, and 4-4-0 on the same frame. Others are generally based on SP, ATSF, and Pennsy locos. They are stout, inexpensive and can look really good considering.
@@erikhilsinger9421 Thanks for the information Eric. 👍
Brass locomotive
You wasted over 5 minutes unpacking the kit, brainlessly rambling, hoping all the parts are there, looking for a date on the paperwork…. All irrelevant to building the kit. You should have attended to all of this before you turned the camera on, checked for all the parts and have them ready in order for the assembly, and so forth. Unfortunately, most UA-cam videos are like this, disorganized, and time wasting.
Thanks for watching.