Awesome tip and fix! Worked on my old silver harbor freight helmet, operating like new again! I got all four solder terminals off in one piece, dropped CR2032s in, and used electrical tape to hold them in place/apply pressure, working well now! Thanks again, great video quality and green screen use 👍
I love videos that continue to help out long after they were made. This worked a treat for helping figure out how to replace batteries on a YesWelder helmet. Much appreciated.
Thanks for clear instructions ... I was able to remove the tabs from the batteries with a razor blade and small ball pean hammer. Put the battery vertical on edge, tab located horizontally at the bottom, place the blade on the long edge of tab holding as vertical as possible, three wraps and the tab popped right off ... Soldered 6" wires to each of the four board power inputs and the tabs to the other ends, drilled two holes in the plastic cover for the wires to exit, placed the tabs on new batteries, piece of bicycle inner tube to cover, large paper clip to hold in place, duct taped both to the inner top of the helmet ... Back in business
Dear Take a bath productions, Just can't thank you enough for a splendid video production. Watched many reviews on this hf auto darkening and all were a waste of time to watch, so I ruled out the purchase of a new one. I have a hf auto helmet that I purchased 10 to 20 years ago, and will try to bring it back to life. If I can't revive my helmet I will purchase a new one, now thanks to you; will be able to replace the batteries. I hope hf appreciates your tutorial as much as I do, because I believe more potential customers will consider a purchase knowing a way to keep it alive. You really did a great job with photography, clear instructions and a good personality. All the best and blessings Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
@@JLPicard440 Dear TAB, got the helmet open. Only has one battery on left side. panasonic 3v vl2330 which read 2.3 volts. Replaced with a new cr2032 3v showing 3.20v. and does not darken when I test it with a spark striker, or hold it up to a light bulb. Its a hf chameleon model approx 15 to 20 years ago. Circuit board looks clean (no corrosion) and wires look to be intact. Does it need to be first exposed to sunlight, as its been unused in garage for many years? I am testing it without soldering tabs but relying on tabs making contact with battery by holding case together tight. Any suggestions and guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
HI Stewart, if you have a volt meter. Follow the tabs back to the circuit board and check at the circuit board that there's voltage there. The helmet should work right away unless the light sensor in the front is really dirty, but I doubt it. IF you're getting voltage on the circuit board, it's probably got something wrong with the board itself... 😞😞
@@JLPicard440 Hello TAB, and thanks for the input back. I get 3.26v at circuit board where tabs come from the battery. Don't know where else to trace it back, but I tested for voltage where 2 wires from circuit board go to lcd screen; and no voltage there. Perhaps the time has come to move on to a new one? Anyway thanks for your help, and I wish the best for you, family, and friends this holiday season!!!
Awesome! I've had my helmet for over 5 years and never used it due to illness. Feeling fine these days and decided to do a little welding. Well snap! of course the batteries were dead. Glad I searched and found your video before purchasing new! Thanks
@@JLPicard440 ? I happened to pick up some CR2032 from HF and I can't seems to get the solder to stick to the battery when tinning. Any suggestions, or but another brand?
@@kennlang1521 Great! I was going to suggest a battery holder with 2 wires and mount the battery holder inside the helmet somewhere and run the wires back to the dimming circuit..
@@kennlang1521 Sometimes you need to lightly scratch the surface of the battery with some fine sandpaper to clean off oxidation. Bright, shiny metal is best for soldering. Works on the tabs and wires as well.
My helmet is almost new & has gone duff. Bet it's been stood years since manufacture. I'll be doing the battery change soon. Just to say thanks for a great video. Looked at plenty of others but your is the bee's knee's .
Another idea is to get an external battery holder from radio shack/ebay/amazon, solder some wires connecting it to the board and fasten inside your helmet with velcro tape. Same principle, but only needs AA batteries, which last longer than those super thin button cell batteries. Then you could permanently seal shut the casing and not have to pry it apart in the future.
@@JLPicard440 You can also get the button cell battery holders and do the same thing, there's a UA-cam tutorial on how he did it. Think I'd stick with button cells, they last a long enough time and are much lighter in my opinion.
If you are having problems trying to solder new batteries on, or want an easier way, you can pop the welds of the batteries and leave the tabs connected when you remove the old batteries. Next slide some cheap 2032s in pieces of heat shrink, then slide the tabs in the correct orientation and heat up the shrink wrap. It will compress the tabs against the batteries. Quick and easy fix (faster than opening the thing). Also don't worry about closing/gluing it up if you have a wire tab holding the assembly in place, the spring wire will keep it closed and pressure on the batteries. Clean your plastics/lenses/sensors while you have it apart, and it works like new!
HI Josh, yes that would probably work for a while, but in all honesty I don't think I'd trust my eyes to a friction connection to the battery. You know how sometimes you have to shake a remote control, or bang it against your knee to get it working again. Same thing with a flashlight that's been sitting for a while. This is because over time that connection breaks down and needs a little jostle to get it working again. The same thing could happen here, and it'd be my luck it would happen in the middle of a weld.. Just my 2 cents, its a good idea, but I don't think it would be for me.
Thanks, just fix my helmet too, Same battery was dead, other was a bit lower 2.9 volts so I did not change it just to see if it's a 1 battery fix. It was works great now. Again thanks, saved me about $60 since I could not find a coupon but found you instead.
Awesome! Yea, Harbor Freight doesn't seem to be sending out coupons like they used to.. They might be cutting their throats, cheapo people like me wait for a coupon...
This is why I was looking into DIY spot welder from old microwave parts. Battery upgrades! Well this and swapping rechargeable series batteries for metal detector. Oh and revamping my drill packs.
Another interesting way to check your filter is to use a remote control like a TV remote that has the little clear round light bulb looking transmitter on the front and point it at the filter and tap a button, I usually just push the power button and it works.
@@JLPicard440 You mean take a video of the remote and push a button and you can see the light on camera? I'm going to research how a welding helmet detects a remote because I looked at it and pushed the power button and I can't see any light with my eyes, it's odd...
@@JLPicard440 I just tried the IR TV remote on camera and it worked, I can see it through the camera but not with my naked eyes, that's amazing how that works.
Just fixed my helmet after welding a few exhaust hangers blind because the damned batteries were dead. Thanks for this video it was perfect. 2 new 2032 batteries and I'm back in business.
Great! Glad you got it going again. Next time my batteries quit, i'm going to get an external battery holder and mount it in the helmet some where and run the wires back to the old location of the batteries. It'll make it easier to replace them again.. 😊
Just one tip: if you glue it back together with hot glue in the corners, a drop of alcohol will soften the glue, so it will easily come apart for the next battery change.
Good to hear! Since the video, someone suggested to me to use an external battery holder and run the wires back to the circuit board. I thought that was a good idea so you don't have to take it apart the next time the batteries go caput!..
Oh nice... Next time I do this, I'm going to get an external battery holder and I'll mount it in the helmet somewhere. That'll make it easier to change the batteries..
@@JLPicard440 Exactly, it's always a slow boat from China. I just put tape round the edge and foam taped the contacts to the battery to give it some pressure.
Just did it... peel the tab spot welds with pliers, then straighten tabs, a little square of tape on the positives to keep them in place put unit back in helmet and the retaining bezel holds it altogether... next change will take minutes...
The cr2335 provides higher amperage than the cr2032 (300mah vs 235mah) so to be on the safe side I would get a cr2354 which provides more than enough amperage (560mah) and those will last much longer than either the cr2032 or the stock cr2335 because of more mah. But if you have to go with the cr2032, there's plenty of them with solder tabs available online, better than risking exploding the battery in your face while soldering
Also You should not have to replace that battery for at least 4 yrs and it can go up to 6yrs life. That battery is rechargeable via the solar panel cells above the viewing glass on the front of the helmet. Just place the helmet in direct sunlight for a few hours or set a shop light directly in front of the helmet for 8hrs and your good to go. If You do need to replace you could use paste solder and use a hair dryer to heat the paste solder. You could also use shrink tubing in conjunction with the paste solder that has a diameter that is 75%?? the diameter of the battery, just enough that the the tubing will wrap around the battery, and cut the tubing as wide as the battery. Wiggle the battery inside the shrink tubing and it should wrap around the whole battery . insert the tabs and heat the shrink tubing to secure the tabs in place. The tabs are the contact terminals so the top and bottom face of the battery do not need to be free from obstruction.
I think I did try to recharge.. but no luck. The helmet is probably between 4 and 6 years old.. so that's right in the lifespan. Thanks for the info....
I wondered if that panel at the top was a solar panel but I thought you had to use rechargeable type button cells to be able to charge them. I'm wondering if the solar panel runs it when there's ample light and just switches over to battery when it's needed? Not sure
I'm a confused retired mechanic, As others have said here the battery on the left is dead, the battery on the right is fine, What has me confused is I own Rechargeable lithium ion button cell batteries LIR2459 (I thought I could use here) I use them for replacements on crank weather radios, Because this helmet recharges these batteries through its solar cells..(that's what I assumed right?!) The button cells in this helmet (Newsun 2335) are lithium ion's but not rechargeable, So this helmet uses solar cells to detect when to darken the screen but not to recharge the cells? I have button cell battery holders, so I'm going to remotely mount a 3v cell inside the helmet so I can just pop it out and replace it, I would really like some input here on your replacements. (I guess my REAL confusion is that HF sells a 50 dollar helmet that needs to go in the trash when a non rechargeable 3v battery dies...WTF)
Yea you pretty much got it! Those solar cells are for sensing the weld, not for recharging and they built the helmet in such a way, most people will just assume its junk and time for a new one when the batteries die.. I know, stupid right.. But yea your remote battery holder should work great. I am still using the 2032 batteries that I installed in the video. I don't weld very much so that's why they're holding up. When they die again, I'll go do a external holder..
Take a Bath, I was trying to describe to my wife what my helmet was doing to me, But instead I showed her the beginning of your video while laughing non stop, Great job! BTW my helmet is up and running, Thanks a million!
I just did this to my HF helmet. I used the 2032 batteries as well. Seems to be working a lot better now. Great video. I was wondering how the 2032 batteries are holding up for you?
@@JLPicard440 Thats good to know. It says you posted the video in January 2019. I dont weld everyday either. Mine seemed to work fine during daylight hours in my garage close to the door with a good amount of sunshine. Later in the evening or at night is when I was having the issues. I only had 1 bad battery too and replaced both. I'll probably order a couple of holders with leads and mount them externally on the cover next time for fast replacement. Again great video! Thanks for replying!
Hi sir what if fixing the welding lens, if it doesn't work normally, from light to dark (not autodarkening) I first thought of batteries or modules, but I tried to swap or replace modules, the results didn't work, but on the old lens (cracked glass) still works I suspect there is a defect in the lens glass (the lens I just bought)
It kinda sounds like it, especially if you've swapped the modules and still no joy! Did u check the batteries with a volt meter to make sure they're still good?
Yes no problem on batterie, for example, I have 2 lenses A and B, of which B is broken, I swap modules from B to A, it turns out that on lens A I change the module no problem, only on lens B that doesn't work, is there a problem with the panel itself, because it can't auto from light to dark
Do both modules work on A? If both modules work on A, then both modules shouldn't work on B if B is a bad panel. I'm not totally clear on what you've swapped.
yes, right you mean, in panel A both modules can work, if installed in panel B it won't work, this is what I mean maybe the damage from the solar panel itself, is there a way if the solar panel doesn't work
The repair worked but instead of attaching the tabs I just added solder to each tab and when I glued each corner of the case by putting books on top, waited for a few hours and the pressure on both sides of the battery are making it function fine. Thanks again. Proverbs 3:5-8
I had the Cheap HF helmet. It worked good for about 4 years. The batteries aren't replaceable. The factory installed batteries are sitting on the shelf going dead in the box. I bought another helmet and it was DOA. I returned it. I ended up buyIng a new one on EBay for about $40.00. Replaceable batteries, full size screen, and full adjustments. The CCP knockoff market is cutthroat. Once US Mtg sent the first operation over there everything, and I mean everything, they took with them was copied and is now being made by slave labor. Patents mean nothing. Once you set up the operation it is cheap to just run it. Hi end, low end, one plant makes it all.
You will Never find the battery with the clips Any place here in the US. The clips are put on at the factory where the battery is specially made for the Helmet. You might be able to get them from the factory where the battery is produced for Chicago Tools though its overseas in China but you will need a min purchase of 500 batteries . Manufacturer is Luis Wei Guangzhou Jiezhen Hardware Co., Ltd
Yes, that was the problem I ran into... finding the battery with the clips. So I figured instead of fooling with all that, I'll just solder on my own clip and as long as the battery isn't over heated,.. it'll work for a good while... Thanks for the info.
just so u know the yellow jacket on the batterie's isn't so the leads don't short its so the batterie's don't short on any points on the board just thought you might want to know
I've watched 5 videos to change the batteries in this helmet, and no one ever shows actually taking the assembly off the helmet. I removed the clips, but it still won't come out.
Sorry about that, but mine came right out. I think there's fingers on the backside of the helmet that grip the darken assy... Just pry the fingers back and it comes right out. (I'm going by memory, I don't have it in front of me.)
Possibly not hot enough. You have to be careful overheating these batteries. You may be better off to get a battery holder and run wires back to the board. Just mount the battery holder with some 2 sided tape or something like that to hold it...
Cool... yes those should work pretty good. Another viewer had a great tip. Put the battery in an external battery holder and attach it somewhere inside the helmet and run the wires back to the board. Then you can change the batteries anytime you want without much trouble...
why are there batteries in these things if they have solar panels? i thought the solar cells are suppose to charge up some capacitors or something and make it work without batteries, or i figured these are special batteries made to hold the charge but then i see on one of my helmets it uses 2xAAA batteries, so can you please explain this, anyways i had the same flashing problem with both my helmets ,one i only use for tig the other for mig (2xAAA) and i failed a welding test the other day because of this shit ,not only was it burning my eyes but also all i could see was the glow of the arc and everything else was dark and not clear so i could not see how to properly progress the weld ,i tried changing the AAA batts and cleaning the sensors but still had this problem ,i guess its time to buy new chinese helmets huh
Yea that definitely sounds like a problem with the helmet, especially if you've already changed the batteries. Those solar cells aren't meant to charge the batteries, they are the light sensor that signals the helmet to go dark.
@@JLPicard440 yes i just learned that the small sensors are for IR detection and the solar cell for UV,, i did what you showed in the vid and changed the coin batteries for my tig helmet but i am not sure if it did the trick, ill have to wait to test it but the old batteries seem to still be good, i had them tested with my amp meter and it showed the same charge on them as the new ones i installed so idk anymore i guess the board or the lcd lens is just no longer working ,luckily i have a new tig helmet still in the box i never used all these years so hopefully that works well and ill just have to find a cheap one for mig welding ,,btw it was a pain in the ass trying to solder the leads to those batteries ,solder would not stick despite me using sand paper to rough up the metal on the batteries but after many pain staking tries i finally got them soldered, the solder would break once i assembled it a few times so like i said a real pain in the ass taking it apart and doing it over, they might come apart again while im working or if the helmet gets smacked hard enough , so the batteries are there to operate the board right,, are they only on when the helmet is working and not draining all this time i hope?
@@ARCSTREAMS Yes, they are only being drained if the helmet switch is on. Question though.. I don't understand why u want a different hat for TIG VS. MIG? Just my curiosity.
@@JLPicard440only my mig helmet has a switch button but i do not have a switch on my tig helmet so i assume the batteries are only being used or drained when the lens is darkening right? the reason i have two helmets for each process is because i like to keep my tig helmet clean of spatter that i get mostly when mig welding so i got one for mig that gets dirty and spattered which i do not mind as much as if it happens to my tig where i need good clarity to work so my tig helmet stays nice and clean most of the time ,just works for me
@@ARCSTREAMS Gotcha... logical. I tried a miller Econo-tig one time. I wasn't great at it, so i sold it.. probably should have stuck with it. No switch.. yes id say if the batteries last a good while that's the only explanation. not sure I like it going from a dormant mode to dark mode when it senses a weld in milliseconds after sitting who knows how long,.. but I guess it works!
Well mine just crapped out I’m going to hobby lobby tomorrow and see if they have a hot knife to open that baby up and just cut the wires to the batteries and find a broken device and use the AA battery holder externally probably hot glue it to the inside of the hood
Yes, I like the idea of using an external battery. Some other viewers said the same thing. If I would have though of that, I would have done that too. My batteries are actually still working, but I don't weld very much.
I bought a Hazard Faught helmet that was broken right out of the box unfortunately I didn't actually try to use it until after the return period expired...never again.
I know... the way they got it sealed up is dumb. I guess it's their way of trying to force getting a new one.. but some people will get mad and buy another brand.
Yes, I think they had that one at the time of the video, but seemed like it was hard to get or the shipping was going to take a while, I don't remember now, but I elected to just pass on it. Maybe that's changed and it's more available now...
@@TheDarthhair I don't have a link, but there's a few on amazon in the cr2032 with tabs. One of the tabs is going the wrong way, so you'll have to solder on a jumper wire to go back over to the board.
Thanks! The true Gospel! Jesus Christ loves you and died, rose from the dead, and ascended to heaven to pay for your sin! Repent and turn to Him and you will walk in light and be saved. Read the book of John and Luke to see God's love for you!
One thing they don't tell you is you have to turn off the helmet when done, then the battery's will last a heck of a long time. Great helmet but don't be so cheap just buy a new helmet when the battery's go bad. it's only forty bucks on sale.
@@MC-hs4mf I'm not sure which one you have, but the one here has a knob, like a volume knob, and it turns all the way to the left until it clicks. Then it's off.
@@JLPicard440 who cares? I'm definitely not buying a new one or doing this. Maybe they will learn a lesson and make a better product with accessible batteries instead of this joke.
I curse Chicago Electric for this idiot design for this battery replacement design. I am so angry about the waste of time this involves…so stupid for them to make this helmet like this….i would have never bought this if I knew prior…..I am throwing this in the trash my time costs more to put myself through this.
Lol... yea, I understand. I would have made the batteries way more accessible. This is an older helmet, so Im hoping the newer models have fixed this problem.. 😊. I have a newer version of this video where I got an external battery holder from amazon and mounted it externally so I can now replace the batteries without taking anything apart again..
Awesome tip and fix! Worked on my old silver harbor freight helmet, operating like new again!
I got all four solder terminals off in one piece, dropped CR2032s in, and used electrical tape to hold them in place/apply pressure, working well now!
Thanks again, great video quality and green screen use 👍
Thank u! Glad you got it going again.. 😊
I love videos that continue to help out long after they were made. This worked a treat for helping figure out how to replace batteries on a YesWelder helmet. Much appreciated.
Awesome! Glad to help 😎😎
Thanks for clear instructions ... I was able to remove the tabs from the batteries with a razor blade and small ball pean hammer. Put the battery vertical on edge, tab located horizontally at the bottom, place the blade on the long edge of tab holding as vertical as possible, three wraps and the tab popped right off ... Soldered 6" wires to each of the four board power inputs and the tabs to the other ends, drilled two holes in the plastic cover for the wires to exit, placed the tabs on new batteries, piece of bicycle inner tube to cover, large paper clip to hold in place, duct taped both to the inner top of the helmet ... Back in business
Yes, excellent! That would definitely work... :-)
I really like having you in the video with the zoomed in bits as your greenscreen background. Very professional!
Sweet! I appreciate the great feedback.. 🙂
Dear Take a bath productions,
Just can't thank you enough for a splendid video production. Watched many reviews on this hf auto darkening and all were a waste of time to watch, so I ruled out the purchase of a new one. I have a hf auto helmet that I purchased 10 to 20 years ago, and will try to bring it back to life. If I can't revive my helmet I will purchase a new one, now thanks to you; will be able to replace the batteries. I hope hf appreciates your tutorial as much as I do, because I believe more potential customers will consider a purchase knowing a way to keep it alive. You really did a great job with photography, clear instructions and a good personality.
All the best and blessings Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
Thanks for the great comment.. :-)
@@JLPicard440 Dear TAB, got the helmet open. Only has one battery on left side. panasonic 3v vl2330 which read 2.3 volts. Replaced with a new cr2032 3v showing 3.20v. and does not darken when I test it with a spark striker, or hold it up to a light bulb. Its a hf chameleon model approx 15 to 20 years ago. Circuit board looks clean (no corrosion) and wires look to be intact. Does it need to be first exposed to sunlight, as its been unused in garage for many years? I am testing it without soldering tabs but relying on tabs making contact with battery by holding case together tight. Any suggestions and guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.
HI Stewart, if you have a volt meter. Follow the tabs back to the circuit board and check at the circuit board that there's voltage there. The helmet should work right away unless the light sensor in the front is really dirty, but I doubt it. IF you're getting voltage on the circuit board, it's probably got something wrong with the board itself... 😞😞
@@JLPicard440 Hello TAB, and thanks for the input back. I get 3.26v at circuit board where tabs come from the battery. Don't know where else to trace it back, but I tested for voltage where 2 wires from circuit board go to lcd screen; and no voltage there. Perhaps the time has come to move on to a new one? Anyway thanks for your help, and I wish the best for you, family, and friends this holiday season!!!
@@stewartbruce2409 I wish you the best too... does your helmet have a switch? Mine does, if u have a switch, make sure its still working...
VERY well made video. Thank you!! The manufacturer should be jailed for making this process so difficult for the user!!
Lol.... Yea I'm sure they just want you to buy a new one over a simple battery swap... 😊
This is the best instructional video I've ever watched . Great job !
Wow, thanks!
Awesome! I've had my helmet for over 5 years and never used it due to illness. Feeling fine these days and decided to do a little welding. Well snap! of course the batteries were dead. Glad I searched and found your video before purchasing new! Thanks
Excellent! I'm glad you're feeling better, and glad you were able to get the helmet working... 🙂
@@JLPicard440 ? I happened to pick up some CR2032 from HF and I can't seems to get the solder to stick to the battery when tinning. Any suggestions, or but another brand?
Went with a gift cert I had and got a new soldering iron and solder. All good!
@@kennlang1521 Great! I was going to suggest a battery holder with 2 wires and mount the battery holder inside the helmet somewhere and run the wires back to the dimming circuit..
@@kennlang1521 Sometimes you need to lightly scratch the surface of the battery with some fine sandpaper to clean off oxidation. Bright, shiny metal is best for soldering. Works on the tabs and wires as well.
My helmet is almost new & has gone duff. Bet it's been stood years since manufacture. I'll be doing the battery change soon. Just to say thanks for a great video. Looked at plenty of others but your is the bee's knee's .
Thanks!
Loved the use of the green screen. It is a shame that manufacturers make it so difficult to change the batteries. Harbor Freight should be ashamed.
IKR. I don't understand it either. I guess they want you to throw it away and get a new one.
Yeah it's pathetic. This should be a simple slip in battery.
Have two HF helmets that needed new batteries. Fixed one and am ready to do the next. Thanks for the great video. Well done.
Glad it helped... That's excellent that you were able to get one going..😊
I’m glad you’re still around. 👍🏼✊🏼
TYSM!
@@JLPicard440 yes sir!
Another idea is to get an external battery holder from radio shack/ebay/amazon, solder some wires connecting it to the board and fasten inside your helmet with velcro tape. Same principle, but only needs AA batteries, which last longer than those super thin button cell batteries. Then you could permanently seal shut the casing and not have to pry it apart in the future.
That's actually a great idea! There's plenty of room in the helmet for that. Thanks for the tip.
I would stay with the lithium batteries due to the low power requirement of the chips and they do last longer than conventional ones.
@@JLPicard440 You can also get the button cell battery holders and do the same thing, there's a UA-cam tutorial on how he did it. Think I'd stick with button cells, they last a long enough time and are much lighter in my opinion.
If you are having problems trying to solder new batteries on, or want an easier way, you can pop the welds of the batteries and leave the tabs connected when you remove the old batteries. Next slide some cheap 2032s in pieces of heat shrink, then slide the tabs in the correct orientation and heat up the shrink wrap. It will compress the tabs against the batteries. Quick and easy fix (faster than opening the thing). Also don't worry about closing/gluing it up if you have a wire tab holding the assembly in place, the spring wire will keep it closed and pressure on the batteries.
Clean your plastics/lenses/sensors while you have it apart, and it works like new!
HI Josh, yes that would probably work for a while, but in all honesty I don't think I'd trust my eyes to a friction connection to the battery. You know how sometimes you have to shake a remote control, or bang it against your knee to get it working again. Same thing with a flashlight that's been sitting for a while. This is because over time that connection breaks down and needs a little jostle to get it working again. The same thing could happen here, and it'd be my luck it would happen in the middle of a weld.. Just my 2 cents, its a good idea, but I don't think it would be for me.
Thanks, just fix my helmet too, Same battery was dead, other was a bit lower 2.9 volts so I did not change it just to see if it's a 1 battery fix. It was works great now. Again thanks, saved me about $60 since I could not find a coupon but found you instead.
Awesome! Yea, Harbor Freight doesn't seem to be sending out coupons like they used to.. They might be cutting their throats, cheapo people like me wait for a coupon...
This is why I was looking into DIY spot welder from old microwave parts. Battery upgrades! Well this and swapping rechargeable series batteries for metal detector. Oh and revamping my drill packs.
Thanks for the info... 😀
@@JLPicard440 thanks for the video. My eyes been hurting and my welds have been chicken sscratch.
@@killhacker5776 Oh no! That doesn't sound good... 😟
Another interesting way to check your filter is to use a remote control like a TV remote that has the little clear round light bulb looking transmitter on the front and point it at the filter and tap a button, I usually just push the power button and it works.
Hmmm... what filter?
@@JLPicard440 The darkening filter on the front of the helmet, just point a remote at the front of your helmet and push the power button.
@@bodeine454 Oh cool! Didn't realize that'll work. You can also do that on a camera and most of the time you can see the remote flashing..
@@JLPicard440 You mean take a video of the remote and push a button and you can see the light on camera? I'm going to research how a welding helmet detects a remote because I looked at it and pushed the power button and I can't see any light with my eyes, it's odd...
@@JLPicard440 I just tried the IR TV remote on camera and it worked, I can see it through the camera but not with my naked eyes, that's amazing how that works.
Very nice video and nice production. My helmet must be dead too, so I will be trying this.
Excellent! Thank U... :-)
Very well done. I like the format, dual perspective.
Thank you very much! 😀
Thank you. you made me happy that I can fix my welding helmet
Yep, I'm still using that one!... :-). You're welcome..
Just fixed my helmet after welding a few exhaust hangers blind because the damned batteries were dead. Thanks for this video it was perfect. 2 new 2032 batteries and I'm back in business.
Great! Glad you got it going again. Next time my batteries quit, i'm going to get an external battery holder and mount it in the helmet some where and run the wires back to the old location of the batteries. It'll make it easier to replace them again.. 😊
Just one tip: if you glue it back together with hot glue in the corners, a drop of alcohol will soften the glue, so it will easily come apart for the next battery change.
Awesome! Thanks for the idea.
Nice, I had this happen last week, my HF helmet did not darken, now I can fix it, thanks, great video. 👍👍
Good to hear! Since the video, someone suggested to me to use an external battery holder and run the wires back to the circuit board. I thought that was a good idea so you don't have to take it apart the next time the batteries go caput!..
cool video thanks . i have been recharging mine back feeding through the switch workss for about 3 months about 10 x
Oh nice... Next time I do this, I'm going to get an external battery holder and I'll mount it in the helmet somewhere. That'll make it easier to change the batteries..
Good informative video with good step by step instructions. Thanks.
Thank U! I'm glad it helped.... :-)
Literally exactly what I was looking for, same helmet! Thank you!
It worked, thanks again
Glad I could help! You're welcome..😊
They have replacement batteries with the soldered on clips and yellow boarder on Ebay out of China for a couple bucks.
I had trouble finding them. Or I didn't want to order from China and wait a long time, I don't remember now.
@@JLPicard440 Exactly, it's always a slow boat from China. I just put tape round the edge and foam taped the contacts to the battery to give it some pressure.
QQTrick1QQ screw buying anything from China anymore!
Just did it... peel the tab spot welds with pliers, then straighten tabs, a little square of tape on the positives to keep them in place put unit back in helmet and the retaining bezel holds it altogether... next change will take minutes...
Excellent! Glad you got it going again... 😀
The cr2335 provides higher amperage than the cr2032 (300mah vs 235mah) so to be on the safe side I would get a cr2354 which provides more than enough amperage (560mah) and those will last much longer than either the cr2032 or the stock cr2335 because of more mah. But if you have to go with the cr2032, there's plenty of them with solder tabs available online, better than risking exploding the battery in your face while soldering
Thanks for the info!
This video showed up right away, it was exactly what I needed. Also well made and easy to follow, thank you for making it!
Sweet! You're welcome and thanks for the great feedback..😊
Also You should not have to replace that battery for at least 4 yrs and it can go up to 6yrs life.
That battery is rechargeable via the solar panel cells above the viewing glass on the front of the helmet. Just place the helmet in direct sunlight for a few hours or set a shop light directly in front of the helmet for 8hrs and your good to go.
If You do need to replace you could use paste solder and use a hair dryer to heat the paste solder.
You could also use shrink tubing in conjunction with the paste solder that has a diameter that is 75%?? the diameter of the battery, just enough that the the tubing will wrap around the battery, and cut the tubing as wide as the battery. Wiggle the battery inside the shrink tubing and it should wrap around the whole battery . insert the tabs and heat the shrink tubing to secure the tabs in place. The tabs are the contact terminals so the top and bottom face of the battery do not need to be free from obstruction.
I think I did try to recharge.. but no luck. The helmet is probably between 4 and 6 years old.. so that's right in the lifespan. Thanks for the info....
I wondered if that panel at the top was a solar panel but I thought you had to use rechargeable type button cells to be able to charge them. I'm wondering if the solar panel runs it when there's ample light and just switches over to battery when it's needed? Not sure
@@bodeine454 I think that panel at the top is a light sensor that triggers the helmet to go dark...
Great video mine got me this weekend
Thank you! Glad I could help..
Awesome video. Thanks man for the help
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped.. 😊
Just subscribed to this channel.
Great video 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Are the batteries wired in series or in parallel? If in parallel, you could replace both of them with a single 18650 battery...
Good point... I don't remember how they are wired.
On removing the tab from the old battery use the same soldering gun to remove the tabs. The old battery's are already died so you can't hurt it.
True!
I'm a confused retired mechanic, As others have said here the battery on the left is dead, the battery on the right is fine,
What has me confused is I own Rechargeable lithium ion button cell batteries LIR2459 (I thought I could use here)
I use them for replacements on crank weather radios,
Because this helmet recharges these batteries through its solar cells..(that's what I assumed right?!)
The button cells in this helmet (Newsun 2335) are lithium ion's but not rechargeable,
So this helmet uses solar cells to detect when to darken the screen but not to recharge the cells?
I have button cell battery holders, so I'm going to remotely mount a 3v cell inside the helmet so I can just pop it out and replace it,
I would really like some input here on your replacements.
(I guess my REAL confusion is that HF sells a 50 dollar helmet that needs to go in the trash when a non rechargeable 3v battery dies...WTF)
Yea you pretty much got it! Those solar cells are for sensing the weld, not for recharging and they built the helmet in such a way, most people will just assume its junk and time for a new one when the batteries die.. I know, stupid right.. But yea your remote battery holder should work great. I am still using the 2032 batteries that I installed in the video. I don't weld very much so that's why they're holding up. When they die again, I'll go do a external holder..
Take a Bath, I was trying to describe to my wife what my helmet was doing to me,
But instead I showed her the beginning of your video while laughing non stop, Great job!
BTW my helmet is up and running, Thanks a million!
@@stclairstclair LOL! Glad you got it going..
Thanks a ton! Saved me some money
Awesome! Glad I could help... 😀
I just did this to my HF helmet. I used the 2032 batteries as well. Seems to be working a lot better now. Great video. I was wondering how the 2032 batteries are holding up for you?
They're still working... I don't remember how old the video is, but they're holding up well. I don't weld everyday though..
@@JLPicard440 Thats good to know. It says you posted the video in January 2019. I dont weld everyday either. Mine seemed to work fine during daylight hours in my garage close to the door with a good amount of sunshine. Later in the evening or at night is when I was having the issues. I only had 1 bad battery too and replaced both. I'll probably order a couple of holders with leads and mount them externally on the cover next time for fast replacement. Again great video! Thanks for replying!
@@pauldashiell4525 You're welcome! 😊
Great video, going to do this tomorrow!
Excellent!😊
That intro has me dying
Lol.. I don't remember what I did!
Just go on eBay and buy a whole new auto darkening lens for $9 you can even find some that have the removable button to replace battery easily
Thanks for the tip!
Hi sir
what if fixing the welding lens, if it doesn't work normally,
from light to dark (not autodarkening)
I first thought of batteries or modules,
but I tried to swap or replace modules, the results didn't work,
but on the old lens (cracked glass) still works
I suspect there is a defect in the lens glass (the lens I just bought)
It kinda sounds like it, especially if you've swapped the modules and still no joy! Did u check the batteries with a volt meter to make sure they're still good?
Yes no problem on batterie,
for example, I have 2 lenses A and B, of which B is broken, I swap modules from B to A, it turns out that on lens A I change the module no problem, only on lens B that doesn't work, is there a problem with the panel itself, because it can't auto from light to dark
Do both modules work on A? If both modules work on A, then both modules shouldn't work on B if B is a bad panel. I'm not totally clear on what you've swapped.
yes, right you mean, in panel A both modules can work, if installed in panel B it won't work, this is what I mean maybe the damage from the solar panel itself, is there a way if the solar panel doesn't work
If panel A is working, then why not just use that and discard panel B?
Thank you for your help.
You're welcome!
The repair worked but instead of attaching the tabs I just added solder to each tab and when I glued each corner of the case by putting books on top, waited for a few hours and the pressure on both sides of the battery are making it function fine. Thanks again.
Proverbs 3:5-8
You're welcome! Glad you got it going. And you're right... we shouldn't lean on our own understanding... 😊
thanks man great video
You're welcome!
Thank you from Cheboygan mi
You are welcome
loved the intro
Lol... Thank you. I've actually got a new one coming out on this where i'm using an external battery mount, so it's easy to access the batteries... 😀
I had the Cheap HF helmet. It worked good for about 4 years.
The batteries aren't replaceable. The factory installed batteries are sitting on the shelf going dead in the box. I bought another helmet and it was DOA. I returned it.
I ended up buyIng a new one on EBay for about $40.00. Replaceable batteries, full size screen, and full adjustments.
The CCP knockoff market is cutthroat. Once US Mtg sent the first operation over there everything, and I mean everything, they took with them was copied and is now being made by slave labor. Patents mean nothing.
Once you set up the operation it is cheap to just run it. Hi end, low end, one plant makes it all.
Yes the replaceable batteries would be nice... 🙂
Thanks so much; maybe now I can actually get my money's worth out of something I bought from horrible freight!
Lol... You're welcome.. 😊
Bro…that intro
LOL
Lol..
Thanks for the info ,but my lens keeps dark it doesn't lighten what can cause that
My first guess is there's something wrong with the control board
You will Never find the battery with the clips Any place here in the US. The clips are put on at the factory where the battery is specially made for the Helmet. You might be able to get them from the factory where the battery is produced for Chicago Tools though its overseas in China but you will need a min purchase of 500 batteries .
Manufacturer is Luis Wei Guangzhou Jiezhen Hardware Co., Ltd
Yes, that was the problem I ran into... finding the battery with the clips. So I figured instead of fooling with all that, I'll just solder on my own clip and as long as the battery isn't over heated,.. it'll work for a good while... Thanks for the info.
I will do this to my helmet tomorrow and I am thinking about an external battery holder for easy exchange.
Yes that's a great idea, some other viewers made the same suggestion... Should work perfectly..
So I accidentally ripped the wires out of my knob and I'm not sure the order in which they go back on it any help?
Arrrgh... I don't know without taking this one back apart again..
Do you use rechargeable battery
HI... Not sure if you can get a 2032 battery in a rechargeable...
Excellent instruction
Glad it was helpful!
just so u know the yellow jacket on the batterie's isn't so the leads don't short its so the batterie's don't short on any points on the board just thought you might want to know
Thanks for the info!
Thanks. Much appreciated.
You're welcome!😊😊
I've watched 5 videos to change the batteries in this helmet, and no one ever shows actually taking the assembly off the helmet. I removed the clips, but it still won't come out.
Sorry about that, but mine came right out. I think there's fingers on the backside of the helmet that grip the darken assy... Just pry the fingers back and it comes right out. (I'm going by memory, I don't have it in front of me.)
@JLPicard440 I finally got it! Lol. It took some finagling🤣.
The helmet is about 10 or 11 years old, been out in the shed for a minute. 🤣
Excellent! Glad you got it loose... 😀
Anybody have issues with solder sticking on the battery. I’ve tried sanding, grinding to get solder to stick, but will not. Tabs hold solder fine.
Possibly not hot enough. You have to be careful overheating these batteries. You may be better off to get a battery holder and run wires back to the board. Just mount the battery holder with some 2 sided tape or something like that to hold it...
I found the 32s with tabs on amazon. 12.99 for a ten pack
Cool... yes those should work pretty good. Another viewer had a great tip. Put the battery in an external battery holder and attach it somewhere inside the helmet and run the wires back to the board. Then you can change the batteries anytime you want without much trouble...
why are there batteries in these things if they have solar panels? i thought the solar cells are suppose to charge up some capacitors or something and make it work without batteries, or i figured these are special batteries made to hold the charge but then i see on one of my helmets it uses 2xAAA batteries, so can you please explain this, anyways i had the same flashing problem with both my helmets ,one i only use for tig the other for mig (2xAAA) and i failed a welding test the other day because of this shit ,not only was it burning my eyes but also all i could see was the glow of the arc and everything else was dark and not clear so i could not see how to properly progress the weld ,i tried changing the AAA batts and cleaning the sensors but still had this problem ,i guess its time to buy new chinese helmets huh
Yea that definitely sounds like a problem with the helmet, especially if you've already changed the batteries. Those solar cells aren't meant to charge the batteries, they are the light sensor that signals the helmet to go dark.
@@JLPicard440 yes i just learned that the small sensors are for IR detection and the solar cell for UV,, i did what you showed in the vid and changed the coin batteries for my tig helmet but i am not sure if it did the trick, ill have to wait to test it but the old batteries seem to still be good, i had them tested with my amp meter and it showed the same charge on them as the new ones i installed so idk anymore i guess the board or the lcd lens is just no longer working ,luckily i have a new tig helmet still in the box i never used all these years so hopefully that works well and ill just have to find a cheap one for mig welding ,,btw it was a pain in the ass trying to solder the leads to those batteries ,solder would not stick despite me using sand paper to rough up the metal on the batteries but after many pain staking tries i finally got them soldered, the solder would break once i assembled it a few times so like i said a real pain in the ass taking it apart and doing it over, they might come apart again while im working or if the helmet gets smacked hard enough , so the batteries are there to operate the board right,, are they only on when the helmet is working and not draining all this time i hope?
@@ARCSTREAMS Yes, they are only being drained if the helmet switch is on. Question though.. I don't understand why u want a different hat for TIG VS. MIG? Just my curiosity.
@@JLPicard440only my mig helmet has a switch button but i do not have a switch on my tig helmet so i assume the batteries are only being used or drained when the lens is darkening right? the reason i have two helmets for each process is because i like to keep my tig helmet clean of spatter that i get mostly when mig welding so i got one for mig that gets dirty and spattered which i do not mind as much as if it happens to my tig where i need good clarity to work so my tig helmet stays nice and clean most of the time ,just works for me
@@ARCSTREAMS Gotcha... logical. I tried a miller Econo-tig one time. I wasn't great at it, so i sold it.. probably should have stuck with it. No switch.. yes id say if the batteries last a good while that's the only explanation. not sure I like it going from a dormant mode to dark mode when it senses a weld in milliseconds after sitting who knows how long,.. but I guess it works!
Well mine just crapped out I’m going to hobby lobby tomorrow and see if they have a hot knife to open that baby up and just cut the wires to the batteries and find a broken device and use the AA battery holder externally probably hot glue it to the inside of the hood
Yes, I like the idea of using an external battery. Some other viewers said the same thing. If I would have though of that, I would have done that too. My batteries are actually still working, but I don't weld very much.
I bought a Hazard Faught helmet that was broken right out of the box unfortunately I didn't actually try to use it until after the return period expired...never again.
Arrrgh... sorry to hear that..
this is why the hemet is $40 bucks spend another 30 or 40 and get one that has replaceable batteries
I know... the way they got it sealed up is dumb. I guess it's their way of trying to force getting a new one.. but some people will get mad and buy another brand.
Thanks
Welcome
My helmet stays dark, I can't see what I'm welding 😓
That's awful! I think if the battery were dead, it would just appear to be off, but light enough you can see through it.
@@JLPicard440 it did fell before it went dark
@@danidjojo They'll usually take a pretty good fall. You could have damaged the part you see through for the welding..
Easy spend another 150 bucks and buy an Optrel you also loose the green screen as well when you buy a shield in that price range.
Im sure those are better, but for someone who welds once in a while these actually work pretty good. Thanks for the info.
They are selling the yellow battery with the lead already attached to it on amazon !
Yes, I think they had that one at the time of the video, but seemed like it was hard to get or the shipping was going to take a while, I don't remember now, but I elected to just pass on it. Maybe that's changed and it's more available now...
Got a link? I'm not too confident in soldering to a battery.
@@TheDarthhair I don't have a link, but there's a few on amazon in the cr2032 with tabs. One of the tabs is going the wrong way, so you'll have to solder on a jumper wire to go back over to the board.
Thanks, I just ordered a different helmet from Amazon. I'll pass this one on to a theater or film company to use a prop.
Very Good!... #174 ✝ {8-15-2022}
Thank you!
Thanks!
The true Gospel!
Jesus Christ loves you and died, rose from the dead, and ascended to heaven to pay for your sin! Repent and turn to Him and you will walk in light and be saved. Read the book of John and Luke to see God's love for you!
Made of Grade A Chineseium guaranteed to cook your retina.
Hopefully not.. 😩
One thing they don't tell you is you have to turn off the helmet when done, then the battery's will last a heck of a long time. Great helmet but don't be so cheap just buy a new helmet when the battery's go bad. it's only forty bucks on sale.
I know, but a battery is 4 bucks! I still use the helmet, and it works great. You're right, it needs to be turned off.
Set it to grinding mode. It disables the panel.
@@JLPicard440 how to turn it off? I have 2 cintrila inside and knob with 10,11, and 12 on outside
@@MC-hs4mf I'm not sure which one you have, but the one here has a knob, like a volume knob, and it turns all the way to the left until it clicks. Then it's off.
@@JLPicard440 solid black without the blue decal. I dont think the shade knob clicks
Better to go buy new helmet and swap out the auto darkening bit with your old helmet then return the new one. 💥
None of this fiddle farting.
That would be stealing.
@@JLPicard440 who cares? I'm definitely not buying a new one or doing this. Maybe they will learn a lesson and make a better product with accessible batteries instead of this joke.
@@joeycottontailakajoeschmo3366 OK
The best replacement for a Harbor Freight is the TRASH CAN don't trust your eyes and injury to a cheap helmet
I used to have a expensive helmet. I can't say it was any better than this one..
Sounds like you have one or else you wouldn't be here .
heat gun.
Not sure how much heat the darkening part can put up with.. 😀
okay im sorry that was all a big ass lie i never really charged mine via back feeding through the switch SORRRRRRY
Lol... I wasn't going to say anything!.. 😀
I curse Chicago Electric for this idiot design for this battery replacement design. I am so angry about the waste of time this involves…so stupid for them to make this helmet like this….i would have never bought this if I knew prior…..I am throwing this in the trash my time costs more to put myself through this.
Lol... yea, I understand. I would have made the batteries way more accessible. This is an older helmet, so Im hoping the newer models have fixed this problem.. 😊. I have a newer version of this video where I got an external battery holder from amazon and mounted it externally so I can now replace the batteries without taking anything apart again..