I'm gonna add my 2 cents worth. I built a 10/22 several years ago when the craze started. Went through so may different pieces and parts and money that it wasn't even funny. I ended up with an Anschutz style Bell and Carlson stock, a Whiteface Mountain barrel (Green Mountain bentz reamed) , factory reciever, Volquartsen VG 2000 trigger and a Volquartsen buffer. And now the kicker. the barrel was the 1st and best change. The one that really made the gun a shooter was using the original bolt but I re headspaced it to .042. That was were the magic happened. A good stock, trigger, barrel and the proper (my belief) headspace will make a shooter happy. Real happy .. Good vid , good information. And as I figured just replacing the bolt with an expensive part has very little to no difference whatsoever. I went through several !
I put mine in a Magpul 22-x stock, the BX trigger and a Magpul Bipod. I put a Shaw Bull Match Barrel on and I went from 1 inch at 50 to 1/4 inch at 50 with those upgrades. Did nothing to the bolt except adapted it to not need that funky bolt release.
A couple of months ago I was asked by my son in law to build a 10/22 with my granddaughter for her sixth birthday. That is today. I have put together some accurate 10/22's, so hopefully this one works out. The following is a list of parts: PMACA light weight chassis, Ruger take off receiver (I will buff out the interior for smooth functioning), Tactical Innovations Match bolt and charging handle (charging handle is red), Team15 Tactical buffer tube and skeletonized pistol grip and fin (red colored), Tandemkross pins and bolts, BX trigger, and just a standard barrel that I have sitting in my gun room from a previous take off. We figured we would start out with just the standard barrel to see how she handles it. Give it a few years when she's done dropping it or getting it scuffed up banging it around. Should be fun and hopefully its accurate.
I got a pop up of Josh talking about a STUD and just knew he was talking about me. Great shooting, no excuse for you not to have a semi auto Z challenge entry now.
Nothing Ruger left in mine 😁 Victor Titan stock with anchor block for Kidd receiver, Kidd receiver, bolt, two stage trigger set to 6oz, all internal Kidd parts, springs bolts. Fedderson 16" bull barrel (I wanted a slip fit not a press fit barrel), Gunsmither V Block. I wanted a semi auto that could keep up with a descent bolt rifle. It does.
I have 2 10/22’s that I’ve added ER Shaw barrels, and Magpul X22 stocks to. BX triggers in each and Arken scopes. Every thing else is stock. I get sub 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards when do everything right. As yet I don’t compete and can’t see a reason for now to spend anymore on them.
Great Video! I have 2 comments: 1. I had my 1022, 18.5 pencil barrel, BX trigger shooting very well. I shot a 0.328 on the Day at the range challenge. Then I bought a borescope. OMG. The whole length of the barrel was black. I cleaned my poor old barrel until it was as shiny as my CZ 457 MTR. After the cleaning, however, my pencil barrel was shooting like yours. It seems Ruger built a barrel for amateur gun cleaners. 2. For the Shame to Fame build, I started with the same 20 inch match stainless barrel and my BX trigger. I put them I to a Mag pull X22 stock because that is what Kidd sells on their website. Last week I did some testing of 5 lots of SK Long Range Match. I was originally going to test only with my CZ 457 MTR, but then I decided to use the 1022. Not only did all 5 of the LRM lots perform great, the average of 4 x 5 shot groups per lot for the1022 were almost the same as the MTR. MTR average was 0.340 inch and the 1022 was 0.372! In fact every group over 0.40 had at least one shot I knew was me screwing up. Either the X22 stock is too lite, or I need to invest in the Kidd single stage. Once again, thank you for this upgrade set of videos.
You should really try sending a bone stock trigger group into brimstone gunsmithing. It’s absolutely incredible. And it’s $80 vs like $300 for nice aftermarket trigger groups.
I changed out my old 44 year old Ruger 10/22 (purchased Nov 1980) barrel with an ER Shaw Threaded Barrel, a ProMag Archangel stock, a Harris bipod, and a Timney Trigger (love the bolt and mag releases it's so much better than the old one from Ruger). Accuracy went up drastically from about a Kennedy half dollar size at 50 yards to a nickel (trying for dime size). I'm currently experimenting with the barrel block to tightened up my groups (also new screws for barrel block and stock) as well as trying different ammo. I've noticed that my two best rounds are SK and Norma Match. I'm going to try Eley semi-auto match next. Once I get everything dialed in at 50 yards, then I'm trying for tight groups at 100 yards and maybe slightly further out.
Stock receiver (cetakote by Black Elk Customs), KIDD bolt w/ Tandemkross charging handle and recoil spring, stock trigger housing with Tandemkross ultimate trigger kit, rotary safety, Tandemkross extended bolt hold open, Velocity triggers extended mag release, Powder River Survivor ejector, Luth-Ar stock, and now need a barrel suggestion.
Born stock factory carbine model just purchased from my local pawn shop. A friend recently invited me to his club for a bench competition and let me use his cz457, needless to say I’m hooked. Don’t have his kind of money so starting out verybudget minded. Your shame to fame video and others are a big help. Thanks, keep these kinds of videos coming.
Nice. I am running stock ruger Reciever and bolt on my Rig. I have the KIDD 20" heavy, KIDD single Stage Kit Light spring. KIDD charging Handle and the Lightest springs. I put min in the Orxy Chassis also. I run the Vortex Venom on mine. It has been a super set up for me. Now the bolt is Modified as I tapered the rear and Polished it. I also Polished the inside of my Reciever It is so smooth the bolt glides like it is on ice. Also use the Volquartsen Bolt Release. I put my trigger kit in a Pikes Arms aluminum housing and aluminum extended mag release.
I have two 10/22's that I've installed Kidd barrels on, both have had trigger jobs but haven't replaced the triggers, both will hold 1/2 MOA at 50 yards with Moderate priced SS ammo...barrel is definitely the first thing to replace...
Yep the Kidd barrel turns that turd into a shooter for sure, looking forward to seeing that receiver swap for sure, my new build with the kidd barrel loves that Eley semi auto benchrest at 50, testing tomorrow at 100 for my 2nd outing at 100 with it and man you have to try his 2 stage trigger man!!
Really good video! I enjoyed that you did this one stage at a time. And the result was excellent! So far I have the Kidd single stage trigger with a cheap .920 barrel and a laminated stock that I really like. I have worked heard with a lot of sand paper to free float the barrel. It shoots okay, but I think the barrel leaves a lot to be desired. A Kidd barrel is next. If I could get the results you got I would be thrilled. I am 75 years old and running out of time!! Keep up the good work KID!
@@williamarnold7574 Agreed but headspace is determined by chamber depth, yes you can cut the bolt face but that can result in excessive case exposure. I build precision rifles and I assure you everyone who does sets primary head space by chamber depth. This is why a custom-fit barrel will generally be more accurate than a drop-in.
Thank you so much for making a video exactly like this!! I am looking to upgrade my 10/22 with Kidd parts and it was extremely beneficial to not only see the before groups but then each upgrade change and how it affected accuracy! Kidd Barrel is definitely something that will be a must!
I watched a video today about using a torque screwdriver to torque the takedown screw to different torque specifications from the factory recommended 20 ft lbs to 30 and sometimes 10 ft lbs. It made an enormous difference.
THANK YOU JOSH ...!!!!!! BEEN WONDERING WHAT HAPPENED ...? ? ? LIKE ALWAYS JOSH ...!!!!!! YOU KNOCKED IT OUT OF THE PARK .... !!!!!!!! CANT WAIT FOR THE NEXT VIDEO .... !!!!!!!! DOUBLE G. HERE ..... 'GARY' ... ! ! !
I build 10/22 in my gunshop for years. A quality barrel is 95% of your accuracy so long as you either have a good stock, free floated and bedded action. Looks like you have a great shooter. Triggers offer little difference but do help especially offhand. You can throw that in a factory sock inletted for a bull barrel free float and bed the action and a simple barrel change will get you there. But a nice sock is handy depending on shooting displine.I have built many rigs and the receiver will not help with accuracy they are nice recivers.
Ruger receiver, Butler creek s.s. bull barrel, Hogue .920 stock, Kidd 1.5 pound single stage trigger,scalloped bolt,buffer, light spring.3/8" groups at 50 yds. Using SK Standard plus. Your videos are excellent 😊
Great video! I am looking forward to seeing if the Kidd receiver will make a measurable difference. I would love to see a comparison in the 10/22 between the Kidd barrel and the F.J. Feddersen barrel. Perhaps a future video idea? Keep the great content coming!
I switched to Green Mountain barrel, Magpul stock, Kidd bolt, and Ruger trigger upgrade. Barrel was the major improvement. Josh - did you have any trouble ejecting a live round with the Kidd barrel? They don't always eject with the Green Mountain barrel.
The first time I disassembled my 10/22 I was immediately disappointed by the amount of tool marks on the backside of the bolt. I wondered if they cut corners there, where else did the factory cut corners. Thanks for this video, Josh. It gives me a pretty good idea of where to put my $$$ first to achieve the gains in accuracy 👍🏼
Great video....I like the fact you are showing different improvements that can be made on the 10/22 platform. Definitely going to have to loo at swapping out my factory barrel after seeing this. Also appreciate the fact that it was unbiased and I didnt feel like I was watching a commercial
I'd be curious if shimming the barrel in the factory reciever would change anything. I pulled my old "built" 10/22 out last year to try some precision shooting. After cleaning it I decided to try shimming the barrel with some .001" shim I had left over from Ars. It seemed to hold a more consistent zero afterward with less fliers.
@@hansel1611 85to 90% in .4 to .6" group do get flyers once in a while. but for the price can't complain center x .3 to.5" flyers are rare but comes at a price indoors groups get a little better hope this helps
@@williamarnold7574 Thanks for the update. I appreciate it! My Kidd parts came in and I tested it out. At 50 yards, I average 0.69" and at 100 yards, I average 1.49". I'm also using CCI SV. I'm thinking about what I can do to get better groups, heard a lot about weight sorting but my previous test was inconclusive. Wind is my uncontrollable variable unfortunately
@@williamarnold7574 Kidd bolt scalloped, charging handle assembly, single stage trigger 1 lb, and the 18" match bull barrel (black, and it's also threaded). I have it on a Magpul Hunter X-22 stock. The only part that's factory is the receiver. I'm planning on going to the range this Friday again. I'll update you on the results of my weight sorting. For the test, I'm planning on using strictly 51 grains. Apparently weight sorting has more noticeable benefits at longer ranges like 100 yards
Very similar, 10/22 in an Oryx chassis, KIDD trigger, Green Mountain barrel, 20 MOA picatinny rail holding Vortex Viper PST, full length ARCA rail, Atlas CAL bipod.
Thanks for another really fun and informative video. This one is right on the money with my current project. Have a 10/22 that has been worked by CPC(Connitecut Precision Chambering) and has a Kidd bolt, charging handle, guide rod, magazine plunger with heavy spring. It still has the Ruger barrel but thanks to the work of CPC it shoots pretty nice. Still wanting a heavy barrel though and am going back and forth between the Lilja and the Kidd. Kind of favor the Lilja because I am a native Montanan and they are sort of local and the one I put on my 457 worked out really nice. Are there any important differences between the two as far as installation goes? Last thing will be the trigger and am leaning towards the Timney there. Thanks again, this video series in making this build more fun.
Randy at CPC turns factory Ruger parts into Swiss watch level precision. That said the thin profile carbine barrel isn’t much to work with. Awesome to watch this go together Johnny Cash style one piece at a time…… Thanks for what you do!
I have a 10/22 with a Keystone fluted barrel. a BX trigger, Hogue overmold stock and a Leupold rimfire scope. I can reliably shoot 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. That's about all I can ask for what I spent. The bolt and the rest of the action are bone stock, and I believe from the 70s. I bought the original stock rifle at an auction, so I don't know it's history.
I did something similar to this with my stock mid '90 10/22. But I went a little overboard. I bought a Anschutz barrel blank and sent it with my receiver to CPC and had a custom barrel made and threaded into my receiver.
I have built a half dozen 10/22s over the last 5 years. I currently own two. Both rest in a Titan stock. I like the Titan better than the Oryx at $165 vs $430. I really don't care for the flat butt on the MDT as you can't slide the rear bag back and forth to adjust elevation. You can also remove the rear block to use a Kidd type rear anchor bolt. I really don't see the need for that as the two anchor points lock everything in place. One has a cheap Green Mountain 20" bull in blue with the other a Feddersen 18" bull. The GM loves Eley SABRP. Feddersen loves the Eley Benchrest Outlaw. The Feddersen also likes Eley Force. GM hates Force. I installed Kidd single stage trigger kits in both. I use stock bolts in all of my builds. The two things I do to the bolts are change the extractor and bevel the rear of the bolt where it cocks the hammer. BTW a 1/4" nylon bolt shank makes at great buffer. Every bolt I have checked has a .043" head space.
Ive had the titan and its nice but i do prefer the one piece alumunim chassis of the oryx. I think for a non rear tang receiver the oryx is the way to go. It locks the rear of the receiver in. Video coming on that soon
Josh! Friggin Awesome Channel... You never mention the LENGTH OF THE BARREL...? is it 18"? 20"? Does it matter for the NRL style purpose you mention in the video.
@@PursuitofAccuracy Love the video series. Thanx for everything you do Josh...you're da MAN...!!! By the way, I've never been to NRL anything or a shooting range, I've never even shot a rifle but I somehow caught the bug last year. I've been building a custom 10/22 in my head for months now hahaha. Your videos have finally compelled me to build a Kidd 10/22 as a first rifle to learn fundamentals and get into Precision rimfire/ backyard plinking/ small game hunting. Great content chock full of valuable data. You're the window to my inner rifleman.
Did you make an update with the kidd receiver? This is great. So so far I'm going to start with a kidd barrel and trigger. From what I'm seeing here is that I can get away with a kidd barrel and a kidd trigger and shoot some nrl with a semi auto/really for fun/ but still get some accuracy. AWESOME!
Josh - I can't wait to see what you can do with Eley semi-auto benchrest precision. I wonder if that chassis will work on my left handed 10/22? The factory stock leaves a lot to be desired. In spite of that, I am getting really great groups. I'm really enjoying this series.
My basic 10/22 carbine with no mods other than synthetic bolt stop is Amazingly accurate with a 3-9 scope! Feed and ejection issues are a different story...
Great to see the impact of various components on the accuracy of the Ruger 1022. So the final upgrade you plan is a Kidd receiver, so then you will have a Kidd 1022 in an Oryx chassis. Any Ruger parts left in it? I do like the Kidd barrels and it does appear to have the most impact on accuracy. I think a chassis or stock, like Victor, has a significant impact, then a better trigger. Nothing like a day at the range with an accurate rifle with good ammo and no wind. Maybe a buddy to compete with. Enjoy!
I got my in Kidd barrel, a 2-stage 3/3 Kidd trigger with a rival arms 10/22 chassis ... not hitting this kind of group for a CCI SV ammo (using a tuner).
I did a Kidd barrel and bolt rod/spring kit, modified my stock bolt and handle, it shoots awesome! Definitely worth while mods! Also, I thought the order should’ve been trigger, bolt, then the barrel last.
@@PursuitofAccuracy The factory barrel was garbage. I would have pulled that first, like you did. As for the trigger and other stuff, the Kidd bolt was a waste of money. A better/less expensive route to take on the trigger would have been a Volquartsen target hammer and trigger kit. The factory bolt can be modified to attain better accuracy. Mods like setting proper headspace and squaring the bolt face are easy, but may not be something anyone can do. Building a very accurate 10-22 can be done on the cheap with some knowhow, but I'd always start with a good barrel like the Kidd you installed. Other mods that really help the 10-22 is proper glass bedding. It is obvious that yours has some issues, as the POI changed when you pulled it out of the stock when changing parts, like the triggers. That is stuff you learn in kindergarten though. A lot of guys needlessly mess with torque settings, but that is just a bandaid because they are not properly glass bedding their rifles. My 10-22 shoots much better than what it appears yours is doing and I kept costs way down by doing all the work myself and not buying parts that are unnecessary. Keeping in mind, "the pursuit of accuracy", does not mean spending your whole dang paycheck to make that happen. YMMV..
I have the spring kit in factory bolt. The only difference I seen in springs, it runs or it doesn't. No accuracy improvement. I have a Kidd barrel with factory action in Oryx chassis and getting the same results you are for accuracy.
I've always wondered how a spring can impact the accuracy on gas guns... even with a blowback setup... once the primer is ignited and the bullet is propelled through the chamber, the spring really has minimal effect on the accuracy... the bolt returns to battery and you're ready for the next shot. Or, is there a bit of "give" when a bullet explodes from the casing? Is it that variability in that fraction of a second of the lockback/ spring resistance/ "give" as the bullet is shot and the gas throws the bolt back.... is it this specific split second variable scenario that makes gas guns slightly less accurate (in general) than bolt guns? .... I'm assuming that the spring resistance/ give isn't exactly the same every time... What else would be the reason bolt guns are generally more accurate? Cool video btw... thanks
Should be trying the Tactical Solution X-Ring receiver. I'll take that over any of the other receiver. Take your BX trigger and send it to Brimstone Gunsmithing. Their Tier 2 is nice but I wish they still have their tier 1.
First off, I’m really digging this video series. Currently, I’m building mine from a gifted 1982 10/22 w/an old heavy profile Midway Barrel in a Hogue Stock. After a good cleaning it shot decent. The old original aluminum housed trigger that had a decent 3. pull. I ended up fire lapping the barrel with 45 rounds (15 of each grit) from a Wheeler Bore Lapping Kit. Now it shoots lights out w/SK Rifle Match (.5 -.75 when I do my part). I’m sure she could do better w/a higher power scope). I sent a BX Trigger to Brimstone & they returned a beautiful 1.25 lb trigger. It’s wearing a PA 1x6x24 ACSS Rimfire Scope in Arken 30mm Rings. I’m waiting on a Midwest Industries two piece chassis & an Odin Zulu 2 Butt Stock. It’s primary use will be used as a “pest removal tool” (after I have the barrel threaded for suppressor use). Josh, you’ve got me thinking that I may need to build another 10/22…… or two!
nice video, i now know that i can use this chassis on my remington 700 and it makes it also compatible with mags so im definitely going to try that! not sure if id spend 500 to do this to a 10/22 but the remington for sure. you got an affiliate code or something?
I was watching this video which led me to buy Kidd barrel, 2 stage trigger, bolt/recoil spring and MDT oryx chassis. I am still using a factory Ruger action and tried assembly tonight. It does not seem to seat all the way into the chassis and I can see a space between the rear end of the chassis and the action as well as the trigger guard not seeming fully seated. Is there a problem with installing in the Oryx? Just looking for advice!
Impressed with the setup I want to build mine custom and am thinking which barrel is that? Also Im interested in the volquarsten trigger/bolt/reciever, would you reccomend that setup with your chassis or keep it all kid? Or even mix and match?
Have you tinkered with the in-lb of the action screw? Try 10-20-30-40 in-lbs, groups of 5 then go back to where it was most accurate say for example 20 was the best, then go by 5s on each side and shoot 5rd groups at 15-20-25 in-lbs then just go to where it was most accurate and leave it there...if you're OCD, go to 2.5s and repeat...that's about as good as that barrel will shoot.
Great results there. I’m interested in you opinion on the Oryx chassis for my own 10/22. I’m running a stock Ruger action and bolt that was originally the target tactical model. I swapped out the barrel which was excellent, but opted for a volquartsen carbon wrapped barrel 12.5” and I run a suppressor in it. It shoots lights out.
So would the best move be. 1. buy the cheapest 10/22. 2. Set it in a new chassis. 3. get a kidd barrel. Is there a difference in the models other than the chassis and barrels? All have the same action right?
Best move is leave everything Ruger at the store buy KIDD barrel, receiver & Single stage trigger. Pick a stock that has an aluminum block in it, get the best glass you can afford. The rest does not effect much so long as it’s not no name junk.
I'm new to the "Improve your Ruger 10/22" game, so this may sound like I'm being cynical when I'm not. But if you take a 10/22, and replace the stock, the trigger, the barrel, the bolt, and towards the end you mentioned replacing the receiver...what part of that gun is still a Ruger 10/22? Isn't it a 10/22 clone? And again, not trying to belittle anybody who wants to do this, but I wish there was a way I could post pictures on here because from what I can tell, you took a stock rifle, easily trippled the original cost doing upgrades, to get it to shoot groups as good as my Savage Mark II FVSR does with a fairly inexpensive Vortex Crossfire II scope, with zero modifications. Using cheap Federal AUTOMATCH 40gr round nose ammo, I can stack dime size groups at 50 yards if the wind isn't blowing, with a $275.00 rig counting the scope.
@PursuitofAccuracy well, I commend you. Great informative video and great shooting! I guess there are people who will want to do all of that, but for me I'll keep my 10/22 as it came from the factory, and shoot dime size groups with my Savage Mark II FVSR that will do that out of the box that cost me under $200.00!!! 😉
@@stephenkidder8876 yeah for sure brother. Some people just end up with one that doesnt meet expectations. I think the video shows the barrel is really all you need for biggest bang for buck. Thanks for watching and commenting brother. I dont always see things as others do so it can be interesting to see it from different perspectives
@PursuitofAccuracy please don't get me wrong I very much enjoy and respect your videos. I watch and learn and appreciate the time and money you spend doing what you do for the shooting community. After watching I may go for a barrel replacement and upgrade trigger on my 10/22. I like doing head shots on squirrels when they're in season which is what I use the Ruger for mostly! Looking forward to more great videos from you brother! Have a great weekend! Happy shooting 🔫
@@stephenkidder8876 no offense taken at all brother. I learn more from you guys than you might think. A fool knows it all, a wise man knows how much of a fool he is...im pretty foolish 🤣
I'm gonna add my 2 cents worth. I built a 10/22 several years ago when the craze started. Went through so may different pieces and parts and money that it wasn't even funny. I ended up with an Anschutz style Bell and Carlson stock, a Whiteface Mountain barrel (Green Mountain bentz reamed) , factory reciever, Volquartsen VG 2000 trigger and a Volquartsen buffer. And now the kicker. the barrel was the 1st and best change. The one that really made the gun a shooter was using the original bolt but I re headspaced it to .042. That was were the magic happened. A good stock, trigger, barrel and the proper (my belief) headspace will make a shooter happy. Real happy .. Good vid , good information. And as I figured just replacing the bolt with an expensive part has very little to no difference whatsoever. I went through several !
It would be nice to see all that stuff with the factory barrel
I put mine in a Magpul 22-x stock, the BX trigger and a Magpul Bipod. I put a Shaw Bull Match Barrel on and I went from 1 inch at 50 to 1/4 inch at 50 with those upgrades. Did nothing to the bolt except adapted it to not need that funky bolt release.
A couple of months ago I was asked by my son in law to build a 10/22 with my granddaughter for her sixth birthday. That is today. I have put together some accurate 10/22's, so hopefully this one works out. The following is a list of parts: PMACA light weight chassis, Ruger take off receiver (I will buff out the interior for smooth functioning), Tactical Innovations Match bolt and charging handle (charging handle is red), Team15 Tactical buffer tube and skeletonized pistol grip and fin (red colored), Tandemkross pins and bolts, BX trigger, and just a standard barrel that I have sitting in my gun room from a previous take off. We figured we would start out with just the standard barrel to see how she handles it. Give it a few years when she's done dropping it or getting it scuffed up banging it around. Should be fun and hopefully its accurate.
A great video. Thank you she was very helpful I'm in the middle of trying to build up my 10:22 right now. I really appreciate your work
I got a pop up of Josh talking about a STUD and just knew he was talking about me. Great shooting, no excuse for you not to have a semi auto Z challenge entry now.
Lol 😂 , I must admit that you are a big black handsome fella. I bet that you were very popular with the little chicks back in the day big fella.
@@conservativesniperhunter7439 🤣What do you mean back in the day 🤣
@@Dayattherange lol 😂.
Nothing Ruger left in mine 😁 Victor Titan stock with anchor block for Kidd receiver, Kidd receiver, bolt, two stage trigger set to 6oz, all internal Kidd parts, springs bolts. Fedderson 16" bull barrel (I wanted a slip fit not a press fit barrel), Gunsmither V Block. I wanted a semi auto that could keep up with a descent bolt rifle. It does.
Why not a threaded receiver?
I have 2 10/22’s that I’ve added ER Shaw barrels, and Magpul X22 stocks to. BX triggers in each and Arken scopes. Every thing else is stock. I get sub 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards when do everything right. As yet I don’t compete and can’t see a reason for now to spend anymore on them.
Very impressive seeing what the kidd barrel did I was expecting a difference but wow it was like 1/4 the size. Thanks Josh great video
Great Video!
I have 2 comments:
1. I had my 1022, 18.5 pencil barrel, BX trigger shooting very well. I shot a 0.328 on the Day at the range challenge.
Then I bought a borescope. OMG. The whole length of the barrel was black. I cleaned my poor old barrel until it was as shiny as my CZ 457 MTR.
After the cleaning, however, my pencil barrel was shooting like yours. It seems Ruger built a barrel for amateur gun cleaners.
2. For the Shame to Fame build, I started with the same 20 inch match stainless barrel and my BX trigger.
I put them I to a Mag pull X22 stock because that is what Kidd sells on their website.
Last week I did some testing of 5 lots of SK Long Range Match.
I was originally going to test only with my CZ 457 MTR, but then I decided to use the 1022.
Not only did all 5 of the LRM lots perform great, the average of 4 x 5 shot groups per lot for the1022 were almost the same as the MTR.
MTR average was 0.340 inch and the 1022 was 0.372!
In fact every group over 0.40 had at least one shot I knew was me screwing up. Either the X22 stock is too lite, or I need to invest in the Kidd single stage.
Once again, thank you for this upgrade set of videos.
Sounds like you got some shooters for sure. Your barrel may have some imperfections that the fouling may smooth out.
You should really try sending a bone stock trigger group into brimstone gunsmithing. It’s absolutely incredible. And it’s $80 vs like $300 for nice aftermarket trigger groups.
I changed out my old 44 year old Ruger 10/22 (purchased Nov 1980) barrel with an ER Shaw Threaded Barrel, a ProMag Archangel stock, a Harris bipod, and a Timney Trigger (love the bolt and mag releases it's so much better than the old one from Ruger). Accuracy went up drastically from about a Kennedy half dollar size at 50 yards to a nickel (trying for dime size). I'm currently experimenting with the barrel block to tightened up my groups (also new screws for barrel block and stock) as well as trying different ammo. I've noticed that my two best rounds are SK and Norma Match. I'm going to try Eley semi-auto match next. Once I get everything dialed in at 50 yards, then I'm trying for tight groups at 100 yards and maybe slightly further out.
Stock receiver (cetakote by Black Elk Customs), KIDD bolt w/ Tandemkross charging handle and recoil spring, stock trigger housing with Tandemkross ultimate trigger kit, rotary safety, Tandemkross extended bolt hold open, Velocity triggers extended mag release, Powder River Survivor ejector, Luth-Ar stock, and now need a barrel suggestion.
I didn't realize that they made the Oryx chassis for the 10/22. 😮🤔 (and it comes in all black).
Running KIDD barrel, bolt, trigger in a Boyd stock. Love the setup. I have had many different setups on this gun but this is by far the best so far.
Born stock factory carbine model just purchased from my local pawn shop. A friend recently invited me to his club for a bench competition and let me use his cz457, needless to say I’m hooked. Don’t have his kind of money so starting out verybudget minded. Your shame to fame video and others are a big help. Thanks, keep these kinds of videos coming.
Thanks for watching
Nice. I am running stock ruger Reciever and bolt on my Rig. I have the KIDD 20" heavy, KIDD single Stage Kit Light spring. KIDD charging Handle and the Lightest springs. I put min in the Orxy Chassis also. I run the Vortex Venom on mine. It has been a super set up for me. Now the bolt is Modified as I tapered the rear and Polished it. I also Polished the inside of my Reciever It is so smooth the bolt glides like it is on ice. Also use the Volquartsen Bolt Release. I put my trigger kit in a Pikes Arms aluminum housing and aluminum extended mag release.
I've been itching for some more rimfire content from you. I finally got my fix. Good stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of this build.
I have an all kidd build in the Boyd's thumbhole stock. Ordering the oryx this week.
I have two 10/22's that I've installed Kidd barrels on, both have had trigger jobs but haven't replaced the triggers, both will hold 1/2 MOA at 50 yards with Moderate priced SS ammo...barrel is definitely the first thing to replace...
Glad ur showing people what rifles can do with a little work, I'm still a bolt guy
Yep the Kidd barrel turns that turd into a shooter for sure, looking forward to seeing that receiver swap for sure, my new build with the kidd barrel loves that Eley semi auto benchrest at 50, testing tomorrow at 100 for my 2nd outing at 100 with it and man you have to try his 2 stage trigger man!!
Only thing I was thinking about is how much SK ammo you borrowed on a non return policy to the Ginger giant in the mid west
Really good video! I enjoyed that you did this one stage at a time. And the result was excellent! So far I have the Kidd single stage trigger with a cheap .920 barrel and a laminated stock that I really like. I have worked heard with a lot of sand paper to free float the barrel. It shoots okay, but I think the barrel leaves a lot to be desired. A Kidd barrel is next. If I could get the results you got I would be thrilled. I am 75 years old and running out of time!! Keep up the good work KID!
The kidd barrels are a great upgrade
Green mountain barrel, VQ trigger, polish the back of bolt, bolt buffer. Modify bolt hold open
To determine if a premium bolt would improve groups, I think it would be illustrative to install it BEFORE the barrel upgrade.
Why would that make a difference?
@@takedeadaim8671 head spacing can make big difference in 22lr
@@williamarnold7574 Agreed but headspace is determined by chamber depth, yes you can cut the bolt face but that can result in excessive case exposure. I build precision rifles and I assure you everyone who does sets primary head space by chamber depth. This is why a custom-fit barrel will generally be more accurate than a drop-in.
Thank you so much for making a video exactly like this!! I am looking to upgrade my 10/22 with Kidd parts and it was extremely beneficial to not only see the before groups but then each upgrade change and how it affected accuracy! Kidd Barrel is definitely something that will be a must!
Thanks a lot!
Kidd 18” and Kidd Trigger is what I’m running in a Victor Company Titan. But Kidd makes a great barrel.
I watched a video today about using a torque screwdriver to torque the takedown screw to different torque specifications from the factory recommended 20 ft lbs to 30 and sometimes 10 ft lbs. It made an enormous difference.
It can make a difference. Usually on compressible stocks (wood) is where you see it make the biggest differences
Man that Kidd barrel hammers. Will need to keep that in mind. For my 10/22 I put in some Kidd stuff and Tandemkross stuff.
The kidd barrels have been awesome
Great to see the clear difference the barrel made.I changed stock then trigger without huge difference so will go for barrel change next
Very impressive accuracy from the good ol rugged Ruger 10/22 rifle.
THANK YOU JOSH ...!!!!!! BEEN WONDERING WHAT HAPPENED ...? ? ? LIKE ALWAYS JOSH ...!!!!!! YOU KNOCKED IT OUT OF THE PARK .... !!!!!!!! CANT WAIT FOR THE NEXT VIDEO .... !!!!!!!! DOUBLE G. HERE ..... 'GARY' ... ! ! !
Thanks Gary
@@PursuitofAccuracy JOSH.. HAVE A BLESSED DAY...!!! JESUS SAVES ... GARY ...!!!!!
I build 10/22 in my gunshop for years. A quality barrel is 95% of your accuracy so long as you either have a good stock, free floated and bedded action. Looks like you have a great shooter. Triggers offer little difference but do help especially offhand. You can throw that in a factory sock inletted for a bull barrel free float and bed the action and a simple barrel change will get you there. But a nice sock is handy depending on shooting displine.I have built many rigs and the receiver will not help with accuracy they are nice recivers.
Ruger receiver, Butler creek s.s. bull barrel, Hogue .920 stock, Kidd 1.5 pound single stage trigger,scalloped bolt,buffer, light spring.3/8" groups at 50 yds. Using SK Standard plus. Your videos are excellent 😊
Great video! I am looking forward to seeing if the Kidd receiver will make a measurable difference. I would love to see a comparison in the 10/22 between the Kidd barrel and the F.J. Feddersen barrel. Perhaps a future video idea? Keep the great content coming!
best Ruger 10/22 video ever: thanks for starting by the barrel. it just confirmed my taught ! Thanks, i like your content ….
regards
I had a 10-22some years ago and stock no mods it would shoot 1/2 inch groups at 50 yds with Winchester power points great gun.
All i did to mine was install a Fedderson barrel from Tennessee for $150 it shoots aspirins at 25 yards. Even with the terrible stock trigger
I switched to Green Mountain barrel, Magpul stock, Kidd bolt, and Ruger trigger upgrade. Barrel was the major improvement.
Josh - did you have any trouble ejecting a live round with the Kidd barrel? They don't always eject with the Green Mountain barrel.
The first time I disassembled my 10/22 I was immediately disappointed by the amount of tool marks on the backside of the bolt. I wondered if they cut corners there, where else did the factory cut corners.
Thanks for this video, Josh. It gives me a pretty good idea of where to put my $$$ first to achieve the gains in accuracy 👍🏼
Thanks so much for making this video. I can't wait to see the rest of this series. Just got a Kidd receiver. So it begins.
KIDD Barrel and Trigger is a No Brainer!
Great video....I like the fact you are showing different improvements that can be made on the 10/22 platform. Definitely going to have to loo at swapping out my factory barrel after seeing this. Also appreciate the fact that it was unbiased and I didnt feel like I was watching a commercial
What is that bolt/charger? I’m thinking volquestan trigger and or bolt/receiver or maybe Kidd
Its Kidd
I'd be curious if shimming the barrel in the factory reciever would change anything. I pulled my old "built" 10/22 out last year to try some precision shooting. After cleaning it I decided to try shimming the barrel with some .001" shim I had left over from Ars. It seemed to hold a more consistent zero afterward with less fliers.
kidd rocks love mine went from 1" @50 to 1"@100 on cci sv kidd barrel trigger, bolt and rear tang with hunter x stock NO REGRETS
What peformance were you seeing at 50 yards with the Kidd barrel?
@@hansel1611 85to 90% in .4 to .6" group do get flyers once in a while. but for the price can't complain center x .3 to.5" flyers are rare but comes at a price indoors groups get a little better hope this helps
@@williamarnold7574 Thanks for the update. I appreciate it!
My Kidd parts came in and I tested it out. At 50 yards, I average 0.69" and at 100 yards, I average 1.49". I'm also using CCI SV. I'm thinking about what I can do to get better groups, heard a lot about weight sorting but my previous test was inconclusive. Wind is my uncontrollable variable unfortunately
@@hansel1611 what parts did you get?
@@williamarnold7574 Kidd bolt scalloped, charging handle assembly, single stage trigger 1 lb, and the 18" match bull barrel (black, and it's also threaded). I have it on a Magpul Hunter X-22 stock. The only part that's factory is the receiver. I'm planning on going to the range this Friday again. I'll update you on the results of my weight sorting. For the test, I'm planning on using strictly 51 grains. Apparently weight sorting has more noticeable benefits at longer ranges like 100 yards
Very similar, 10/22 in an Oryx chassis, KIDD trigger, Green Mountain barrel, 20 MOA picatinny rail holding Vortex Viper PST, full length ARCA rail, Atlas CAL bipod.
If you go to the Kidd weakest action spring with standard ammo it might help with the first round flyer.
Thanks for another really fun and informative video. This one is right on the money with my current project. Have a 10/22 that has been worked by CPC(Connitecut Precision Chambering) and has a Kidd bolt, charging handle, guide rod, magazine plunger with heavy spring. It still has the Ruger barrel but thanks to the work of CPC it shoots pretty nice. Still wanting a heavy barrel though and am going back and forth between the Lilja and the Kidd. Kind of favor the Lilja because I am a native Montanan and they are sort of local and the one I put on my 457 worked out really nice. Are there any important differences between the two as far as installation goes? Last thing will be the trigger and am leaning towards the Timney there. Thanks again, this video series in making this build more fun.
Thanks Mark. I appreciate ya
Randy at CPC turns factory Ruger parts into Swiss watch level precision. That said the thin profile carbine barrel isn’t much to work with. Awesome to watch this go together Johnny Cash style one piece at a time…… Thanks for what you do!
I dont think I heard him mention which Kidd barrel he's using. Anybody else catch that? I'm curious to know how much it weighs.
Is that a heavey barrel? I have a Volquartsen carbon fiber barrel with Kidd trigger, but am thinking about going Kidd barrel as well. Thanks.
It is
Thanks. I have been watching some of your other videos. Great stuff. Keep up the great work, and God bless.
Very nice video.
Great information and the delivery was nice too.
Thanks Eric
Unfortunately I guess I’m going to be spending some money with Kidd. Thanks, your work is heads and shoulders above most.
Thanks, I appreciate you watching
I have a 10/22 with a Keystone fluted barrel. a BX trigger, Hogue overmold stock and a Leupold rimfire scope. I can reliably shoot 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. That's about all I can ask for what I spent. The bolt and the rest of the action are bone stock, and I believe from the 70s. I bought the original stock rifle at an auction, so I don't know it's history.
I did something similar to this with my stock mid '90 10/22. But I went a little overboard. I bought a Anschutz barrel blank and sent it with my receiver to CPC and had a custom barrel made and threaded into my receiver.
I have built a half dozen 10/22s over the last 5 years. I currently own two. Both rest in a Titan stock. I like the Titan better than the Oryx at $165 vs $430. I really don't care for the flat butt on the MDT as you can't slide the rear bag back and forth to adjust elevation. You can also remove the rear block to use a Kidd type rear anchor bolt. I really don't see the need for that as the two anchor points lock everything in place. One has a cheap Green Mountain 20" bull in blue with the other a Feddersen 18" bull. The GM loves Eley SABRP. Feddersen loves the Eley Benchrest Outlaw. The Feddersen also likes Eley Force. GM hates Force. I installed Kidd single stage trigger kits in both. I use stock bolts in all of my builds. The two things I do to the bolts are change the extractor and bevel the rear of the bolt where it cocks the hammer. BTW a 1/4" nylon bolt shank makes at great buffer. Every bolt I have checked has a .043" head space.
Ive had the titan and its nice but i do prefer the one piece alumunim chassis of the oryx.
I think for a non rear tang receiver the oryx is the way to go. It locks the rear of the receiver in.
Video coming on that soon
@@PursuitofAccuracy The Titan locks the rear of the receiver in also.
@@joed3264 its been a while so must have forgotten about that. Thanks
Josh! Friggin Awesome Channel... You never mention the LENGTH OF THE BARREL...? is it 18"? 20"? Does it matter for the NRL style purpose you mention in the video.
Its a 20". No restrictions for that stuff in nrl22
@@PursuitofAccuracy Love the video series. Thanx for everything you do Josh...you're da MAN...!!! By the way, I've never been to NRL anything or a shooting range, I've never even shot a rifle but I somehow caught the bug last year. I've been building a custom 10/22 in my head for months now hahaha. Your videos have finally compelled me to build a Kidd 10/22 as a first rifle to learn fundamentals and get into Precision rimfire/ backyard plinking/ small game hunting. Great content chock full of valuable data. You're the window to my inner rifleman.
Digging the donny fl shirt. I have a few donny fls for my .457
Did you make an update with the kidd receiver? This is great. So so far I'm going to start with a kidd barrel and trigger. From what I'm seeing here is that I can get away with a kidd barrel and a kidd trigger and shoot some nrl with a semi auto/really for fun/ but still get some accuracy. AWESOME!
Can you do this test in reverse with the aftermarket parts?
Josh - I can't wait to see what you can do with Eley semi-auto benchrest precision. I wonder if that chassis will work on my left handed 10/22? The factory stock leaves a lot to be desired. In spite of that, I am getting really great groups. I'm really enjoying this series.
Should work just fine with the left hand
I’m pretty sure those stocks are cut for left and right
Hey Josh, can you drop a complete 10/22 into that Oryx Chassis, the only thing not Ruger is the Volquartsen drop in trigger. Thanks, great video
Yup it will fit right in to it
Good video. I like the topic and look forward to more!
My basic 10/22 carbine with no mods other than synthetic bolt stop is Amazingly accurate with a 3-9 scope!
Feed and ejection issues are a different story...
Great to see the impact of various components on the accuracy of the Ruger 1022. So the final upgrade you plan is a Kidd receiver, so then you will have a Kidd 1022 in an Oryx chassis. Any Ruger parts left in it? I do like the Kidd barrels and it does appear to have the most impact on accuracy. I think a chassis or stock, like Victor, has a significant impact, then a better trigger. Nothing like a day at the range with an accurate rifle with good ammo and no wind. Maybe a buddy to compete with. Enjoy!
I got my in Kidd barrel, a 2-stage 3/3 Kidd trigger with a rival arms 10/22 chassis ... not hitting this kind of group for a CCI SV ammo (using a tuner).
Use better ammo.
Waiting for a kidd barrel to show up in the mail and that second group made me really excited
Thanks Josh!! Another great video.
Thanks Dennis!
I did a Kidd barrel and bolt rod/spring kit, modified my stock bolt and handle, it shoots awesome! Definitely worth while mods!
Also, I thought the order should’ve been trigger, bolt, then the barrel last.
That factory barrel wasnt doing anyone any favors
@@PursuitofAccuracy In my experience barrel and trigger have the biggest effect on accuracy.
@@PursuitofAccuracy The factory barrel was garbage. I would have pulled that first, like you did. As for the trigger and other stuff, the Kidd bolt was a waste of money. A better/less expensive route to take on the trigger would have been a Volquartsen target hammer and trigger kit. The factory bolt can be modified to attain better accuracy. Mods like setting proper headspace and squaring the bolt face are easy, but may not be something anyone can do. Building a very accurate 10-22 can be done on the cheap with some knowhow, but I'd always start with a good barrel like the Kidd you installed. Other mods that really help the 10-22 is proper glass bedding. It is obvious that yours has some issues, as the POI changed when you pulled it out of the stock when changing parts, like the triggers. That is stuff you learn in kindergarten though. A lot of guys needlessly mess with torque settings, but that is just a bandaid because they are not properly glass bedding their rifles. My 10-22 shoots much better than what it appears yours is doing and I kept costs way down by doing all the work myself and not buying parts that are unnecessary. Keeping in mind, "the pursuit of accuracy", does not mean spending your whole dang paycheck to make that happen. YMMV..
I have the spring kit in factory bolt. The only difference I seen in springs, it runs or it doesn't. No accuracy improvement. I have a Kidd barrel with factory action in Oryx chassis and getting the same results you are for accuracy.
Dig my heavy barrel 10/22. Agreed, best bang for the buck.
I've always wondered how a spring can impact the accuracy on gas guns... even with a blowback setup... once the primer is ignited and the bullet is propelled through the chamber, the spring really has minimal effect on the accuracy... the bolt returns to battery and you're ready for the next shot.
Or, is there a bit of "give" when a bullet explodes from the casing? Is it that variability in that fraction of a second of the lockback/ spring resistance/ "give" as the bullet is shot and the gas throws the bolt back.... is it this specific split second variable scenario that makes gas guns slightly less accurate (in general) than bolt guns? .... I'm assuming that the spring resistance/ give isn't exactly the same every time...
What else would be the reason bolt guns are generally more accurate?
Cool video btw... thanks
Should be trying the Tactical Solution X-Ring receiver. I'll take that over any of the other receiver. Take your BX trigger and send it to Brimstone Gunsmithing. Their Tier 2 is nice but I wish they still have their tier 1.
I had one on a steel challenge gun and it was nice
First off, I’m really digging this video series. Currently, I’m building mine from a gifted 1982 10/22 w/an old heavy profile Midway Barrel in a Hogue Stock. After a good cleaning it shot decent. The old original aluminum housed trigger that had a decent 3. pull. I ended up fire lapping the barrel with 45 rounds (15 of each grit) from a Wheeler Bore Lapping Kit. Now it shoots lights out w/SK Rifle Match (.5 -.75 when I do my part). I’m sure she could do better w/a higher power scope). I sent a BX Trigger to Brimstone & they returned a beautiful 1.25 lb trigger. It’s wearing a PA 1x6x24 ACSS Rimfire Scope in Arken 30mm Rings. I’m waiting on a Midwest Industries two piece chassis & an Odin Zulu 2 Butt Stock. It’s primary use will be used as a “pest removal tool” (after I have the barrel threaded for suppressor use). Josh, you’ve got me thinking that I may need to build another 10/22…… or two!
Lol sounds like an awesome setup. Yeah there always seems to be another reason to build a 10/22
Cannot believe the difference that barell made!!!! Wow
Hi there, very interesting video. Can you give the spec of the Kidd barrell and mdt chassis please? Many thanks
great video buddy. that barrel is the ticket for sure
The factory barrel was, like most, a turd
nice video, i now know that i can use this chassis on my remington 700 and it makes it also compatible with mags so im definitely going to try that! not sure if id spend 500 to do this to a 10/22 but the remington for sure. you got an affiliate code or something?
I dont sorry. I dont do any affiliate sales on the review stuff
I was watching this video which led me to buy Kidd barrel, 2 stage trigger, bolt/recoil spring and MDT oryx chassis. I am still using a factory Ruger action and tried assembly tonight. It does not seem to seat all the way into the chassis and I can see a space between the rear end of the chassis and the action as well as the trigger guard not seeming fully seated. Is there a problem with installing in the Oryx? Just looking for advice!
Reviewing a Fletcher Opentop 11/22 Receiver would be interesting...
I checked them out. Pretty neat for sure!
Impressed with the setup I want to build mine custom and am thinking which barrel is that? Also Im interested in the volquarsten trigger/bolt/reciever, would you reccomend that setup with your chassis or keep it all kid? Or even mix and match?
Im really happy with it in the oryx and with the kidd parts
@@PursuitofAccuracy sweet I just picked up the chassis, I've got $300 should I invest it next in a volquartsen trigger, kidd barrel, or bolt/reciever?
or maybe a bipod would be nice haha
mine uses brn 22 receiver kidd ultralight barrel bx trigger and shoots awesome with eley
Looking to build 1022 thanks on the info on things 😮
Love the Kidd stuff. Barrel made all the difference. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Josh… it’s my understanding from talking to them, that most of the Kidd shooters are using Center X
Have you tinkered with the in-lb of the action screw? Try 10-20-30-40 in-lbs, groups of 5 then go back to where it was most accurate say for example 20 was the best, then go by 5s on each side and shoot 5rd groups at 15-20-25 in-lbs then just go to where it was most accurate and leave it there...if you're OCD, go to 2.5s and repeat...that's about as good as that barrel will shoot.
I have played with that
Great video. What torque are you using on the action screw?
30 in lbs
Wonder how a factory 18" (or more) bull barrel would do in this situation?
Can you post a full parts list of your build.
Sure
1997 ruger 10/22 receiver
Kidd single stage trigger
Kidd 20" stainless threaded match barrel
Kidd buffer
Kidd 10/22 bolt (stainless scallop)
Oryx 10/22 chassis
MDT one piece mount
Blackhound Emerge 3-24x56
@@PursuitofAccuracy Thanks for the info!
please show us how that action sets in that oryx chassis ,even if its a short
Shoot me an email to Josh@pursuitofaccuracy.com to remind me. Will try and do a short in the next day or two
Great results there. I’m interested in you opinion on the Oryx chassis for my own 10/22.
I’m running a stock Ruger action and bolt that was originally the target tactical model. I swapped out the barrel which was excellent, but opted for a volquartsen carbon wrapped barrel 12.5” and I run a suppressor in it. It shoots lights out.
So would the best move be. 1. buy the cheapest 10/22. 2. Set it in a new chassis. 3. get a kidd barrel.
Is there a difference in the models other than the chassis and barrels? All have the same action right?
Best move is leave everything Ruger at the store buy KIDD barrel, receiver & Single stage trigger. Pick a stock that has an aluminum block in it, get the best glass you can afford. The rest does not effect much so long as it’s not no name junk.
man that barrel worked miracles
Do you have a review of the Blackhound Optic?
I'm new to the "Improve your Ruger 10/22" game, so this may sound like I'm being cynical when I'm not.
But if you take a 10/22, and replace the stock, the trigger, the barrel, the bolt, and towards the end you mentioned replacing the receiver...what part of that gun is still a Ruger 10/22? Isn't it a 10/22 clone?
And again, not trying to belittle anybody who wants to do this, but I wish there was a way I could post pictures on here because from what I can tell, you took a stock rifle, easily trippled the original cost doing upgrades, to get it to shoot groups as good as my Savage Mark II FVSR does with a fairly inexpensive Vortex Crossfire II scope, with zero modifications. Using cheap Federal AUTOMATCH 40gr round nose ammo, I can stack dime size groups at 50 yards if the wind isn't blowing, with a $275.00 rig counting the scope.
The intent of the video was to replace every part. So for those interested they could see where the biggest gains were and maybe save some money.
@PursuitofAccuracy well, I commend you. Great informative video and great shooting! I guess there are people who will want to do all of that, but for me I'll keep my 10/22 as it came from the factory, and shoot dime size groups with my Savage Mark II FVSR that will do that out of the box that cost me under $200.00!!! 😉
@@stephenkidder8876 yeah for sure brother.
Some people just end up with one that doesnt meet expectations. I think the video shows the barrel is really all you need for biggest bang for buck.
Thanks for watching and commenting brother. I dont always see things as others do so it can be interesting to see it from different perspectives
@PursuitofAccuracy please don't get me wrong I very much enjoy and respect your videos. I watch and learn and appreciate the time and money you spend doing what you do for the shooting community. After watching I may go for a barrel replacement and upgrade trigger on my 10/22. I like doing head shots on squirrels when they're in season which is what I use the Ruger for mostly! Looking forward to more great videos from you brother! Have a great weekend! Happy shooting 🔫
@@stephenkidder8876 no offense taken at all brother. I learn more from you guys than you might think.
A fool knows it all, a wise man knows how much of a fool he is...im pretty foolish 🤣
You have replaced:
- Barrel
- Trigger Group
- Stock
- Bolt
- Receiver
What part of that Rifle is still from Ruger?
Yup, i replaced it all one part at a time to help show what made the most differences.
Hi Josh. The 10/22 comp seems to be one of the most accurate gun out the box, what other semi 22 would you recommend for target ? Great videos 👊
Kidd supergrade
I run a tactical solutions 1022. It will keep under a half inch at 50 yards if you do your part.
Amazing work!
Thanks!