Thanks for the video. Well prepared with all the specifics details on how to change the brake pads and rotors. Great job!! Keep up the good work. I'm not a mechanic but I changed my brakes thanks to this video. Thank you.
Just finished front and rear brakes and rotors on my 2015 Pilot. The job went smooth overall. Spreader clips were tricky for a moment. Glad thats over with! Thanks for saving me hunders of dollars at the dealer, Jim. I greatly appreciate your video.
Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video, as well as the time to demonstrate and explain how to complete this job. This was extremely helpful, and my 2012 Pilot will be better off because of it!
I have a 2008 Ridgeline which is essentially the same vehicle as the pilot. My left rear outboard pad was worn to the metal because the pad seized. I ended up replacing both calipers, rotors and pads and doing quit a bit of cleanup and painting due to rust. I noted the 2008 Ridgeline doesn't have the spreader clips and none were provided in the hardware kit with my new pads. This must be something Honda revised on newer models since the rear brakes locking up on the earlier Pilot and Ridgelines appears to be somewhat of an issue. Thanks for the video!
You should always use a dial indicator to check that the rotors run within a .002 inch run out about 1/4- 3/8 inch in from the edge of the rotor. Any more run out than that and you WILL have thickness variation issues down the road that will show up as a "pulsing pedal" or "grab/ free" feel to the brakes when stopping. Use a flat file to clean the rust and dirt off of the hub area between the wheel studs and hub center, you left that part dirty. I wanted to see if there were any special tools needed before I changed mine and ended up here. Other than what I pointed out it looks like a job well done. There was some grease left on the pad surface but that tiny bit likely baked off quickly.
FYI: Those two small screws that hold the rotor in place on the hub are not really necessary to replace. The caliper, along with the lug nuts, will securely hold the rotor in place. But if you just want to replace the screws, use anti-seize or silicone on the threads. It will make future removal a breeze
That's 100% not true! The screws hold the rotor centered on the hub assembly! If you don't use the screws, you will notice the rotor has play on the hub until the wheel is torqued down. Once the wheel is on, the way the rotor was sitting when mounted is how it will rotate. This is what causes rotors to vibrate out of balance. Engineers didn't put those screws there for nothing!!
Is there any prep necessary to help facilitate the piston being pushed in the way you did? I have changed brakes in other cars and I seem to remember (although I may be mistake) having to crack open the brake line to get the piston all the way in.
I noticed you used a flat head to push the piston back instead of the other tool you mention at the beginning of the video(1:02). When would you use this particular tool?
I just did mine a week ago. Just watched though this video though and noticed an issue. Using the dirty and greasy gloves...you got grease on the bad surface. Not a good situation at all. I installed the pads onto the caliper bracket while it was mounted and was careful not to get anything on either the rotor or the pads. Cleaning them thoroughly with brake cleaner would be highly necessary if you get grease on any of the friction surfaces.
As always Jim, great video and very educational and details. However, i have one question here, when you changed pads do you have to top it up the brake fluid?
Yes you can replace the slide pin but I would recommend replacing the mounting bracket because the old bracket is probably rusted inside where the slide pin goes. Thanks for watching.
Hi my mechanic says i need to change my front and rear brake pads and the rotors but when im braking still good what the sign that i must need to change it asap thank you.
It is possible that you need to replace both front and rear brakes but the only way to tell is to take off the wheels and look at the thickness of the brake pads. If you want to send me a picture I can give you a idea of how long you have.
Thanks for the video. Well prepared with all the specifics details on how to change the brake pads and rotors. Great job!! Keep up the good work. I'm not a mechanic but I changed my brakes thanks to this video. Thank you.
Just finished front and rear brakes and rotors on my 2015 Pilot. The job went smooth overall. Spreader clips were tricky for a moment. Glad thats over with!
Thanks for saving me hunders of dollars at the dealer, Jim. I greatly appreciate your video.
Ive done plenty back yard brake jobs, I must say Jim you made it very easy with your approach.
Thanks 👍
Thank you for taking the time to create and post this video, as well as the time to demonstrate and explain how to complete this job. This was extremely helpful, and my 2012 Pilot will be better off because of it!
Thank you!!!!! Just what I was looking for. Excellent work and I appreciate the tips!
Now I know how the auto shop screwed up my brakes. They didn't reinstall the guide pins. Not letting them touch it again. Thanks for the video.
Great Video Jim!!! All work was clearly described and We could see everything (a rarity on UA-cam)
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching. Don't forget to hit the bell for notifications when a new video is posted.
I'll be doing this in the next few days so this was very informative and helpful. Now I know what to expect! Thank you, Jim!
Great I'm happy to help . Let me know how you do .Thank you for watching
I have a 2008 Ridgeline which is essentially the same vehicle as the pilot. My left rear outboard pad was worn to the metal because the pad seized. I ended up replacing both calipers, rotors and pads and doing quit a bit of cleanup and painting due to rust. I noted the 2008 Ridgeline doesn't have the spreader clips and none were provided in the hardware kit with my new pads. This must be something Honda revised on newer models since the rear brakes locking up on the earlier Pilot and Ridgelines appears to be somewhat of an issue. Thanks for the video!
You should always use a dial indicator to check that the rotors run within a .002 inch run out about 1/4- 3/8 inch in from the edge of the rotor. Any more run out than that and you WILL have thickness variation issues down the road that will show up as a "pulsing pedal" or "grab/ free" feel to the brakes when stopping. Use a flat file to clean the rust and dirt off of the hub area between the wheel studs and hub center, you left that part dirty. I wanted to see if there were any special tools needed before I changed mine and ended up here. Other than what I pointed out it looks like a job well done. There was some grease left on the pad surface but that tiny bit likely baked off quickly.
Very Informative Video. Nicely Done.
Think this was so informative that I might go ahead and change my own this time. Women strong 💪🏼
You can do it.Just follow my video. If you run into a problem let me know.
Mr Jimthecarguy, you should had shown us where to pry that pad. The screws that you hit with the impact driver, are they necessary to be put back?
FYI: Those two small screws that hold the rotor in place on the hub are not really necessary to replace. The caliper, along with the lug nuts, will securely hold the rotor in place. But if you just want to replace the screws, use anti-seize or silicone on the threads. It will make future removal a breeze
That's 100% not true! The screws hold the rotor centered on the hub assembly! If you don't use the screws, you will notice the rotor has play on the hub until the wheel is torqued down. Once the wheel is on, the way the rotor was sitting when mounted is how it will rotate. This is what causes rotors to vibrate out of balance. Engineers didn't put those screws there for nothing!!
Is there any prep necessary to help facilitate the piston being pushed in the way you did? I have changed brakes in other cars and I seem to remember (although I may be mistake) having to crack open the brake line to get the piston all the way in.
I noticed you used a flat head to push the piston back instead of the other tool you mention at the beginning of the video(1:02). When would you use this particular tool?
I just did mine a week ago. Just watched though this video though and noticed an issue. Using the dirty and greasy gloves...you got grease on the bad surface. Not a good situation at all. I installed the pads onto the caliper bracket while it was mounted and was careful not to get anything on either the rotor or the pads. Cleaning them thoroughly with brake cleaner would be highly necessary if you get grease on any of the friction surfaces.
Make sure u clean grease off pads
I saw those greasy prints too. Always clean the front and back of rotors.
What brand of synthetic silicone brake grease are you using"?
Thank you for the good insight.
Great Video Sir, Thanks for sharing!
Hello Jim . as a professional mechanic what is your opinion about the 2012 Honda Pilot touring
I actually like the Honda products . They are very dependable .The new turbo one not so much. Thanks for watching.
What are the torque specifications for the 12 mm (slider pins) and the 17mm (caliper bracket) bolts? Great video, thanks for making it!
Me to wondering
Torque the bracket bolts to three grunts and the pins to one half grunt.
12mm : 27 lb
17mm : 65 lb
As always Jim, great video and very educational and details. However, i have one question here, when you changed pads do you have to top it up the brake fluid?
In most cases no unless you lost fluid from bleeding or replacing calipers. I'm happy to help.Thank you for watching.
Thank you.
Jim, how come those spreader pins don't come on all brake systems
Thank u sir for posting this!
I have a honda pilot back roter wount come off screws are out do i have to losen the e brake
Where do I find this driver tool?
Hi - what are the torque specs for all 4 brake bolts on a 2010 Nissan Maxima. Thanks
I’ve got front mounting bracket that the pin is stuck on bottom can I change them pins out? It’s a 2012 Honda Pilot 4wd thanks Jim
Yes you can replace the slide pin but I would recommend replacing the mounting bracket because the old bracket is probably rusted inside where the slide pin goes. Thanks for watching.
Hi my mechanic says i need to change my front and rear brake pads and the rotors but when im braking still good what the sign that i must need to change it asap thank you.
It is possible that you need to replace both front and rear brakes but the only way to tell is to take off the wheels and look at the thickness of the brake pads. If you want to send me a picture I can give you a idea of how long you have.
Hi Jim, What brand of impact screw driver did you use? Co'z mine is no good, especially the bits. Always break.
honorable Japan Industry Standard (JIS) #3 Impact shrew driver on amazon $14.20. JIS screws are not standard Phillips Head screws.
Great Job
Thank you for stopping by
Those locator screws might be JIS 3 instead of philips.
Thanx for video jim
Thank for for watching
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment.
What a terrible and not driver friendly system made by Honda.
Thanks for your great video👍
I'm happy to help. Thank you for watching