I think the whole thing with exposing the spark kernel really took traction in the 90s. There was a plug called splitfire and the plug was basically a side gap of the V split in ground strap to the electrode. I tryed them and they made zero difference. I do find that with the fine tip metal plugs they ingite better and stay clean longer. Another great video keep it up !
Would different octane fuels react differently to side gapping? I'm wondering if the speed at which the fuel combusts might determine whether or not side gapping is beneficial.
Hey i have same car as you and it vibrates slightly when i have the AC on and stopping in a traffic light while the car is on drive, its not as worse if the car is on neutral. Is this an issue? Its worse if ive been driving hard before stopping at the traffic light.
The problem is Crank Shaft position sensor. It needs to be changed. The car heats up and this sensor trips and the car does not run until you switch off and rest for a few minutes then restart. Change the sensor and you're golden again.
-clean map / maf / tmap (whatever the car in question has) -change the air filter, checkk pcv valve, -clean the throttle body, disconect the battery first, unplug it, get it out all the way then you can manipulate it ( if it is the electronicaly powered ones, otherwise you risk to mess it up) -i would run an obd2 app based diagnostic -change he spark plugs, then coil plugs. -get a multimeter check all the fuses and relays, check alternator if it charges well -get an aliexpress or (amazon for you) kit to clean injectors realy cheap and easy to do) clean them with brake fluids inward and backward and change the bascket filter in them -check with the multimeter al the sensors: camshaft, crankshaft, maf, knock -get crank and cam sensors out and clean them get all the burnt oil deposit out of them, if they're old, the magnet gets weaker so the signal weakens, even if it works and doesn't throw check engine light) -check for vacuum leak with the fume technique (look it up on youtube, all these i'm telling you about are available in details on youtube) -get compression test (off amazon) and check the recomended values. also the driving hard then stoping and the car goes like it wants to shut off made me think about fuel pump, and crankshaft sensor, also the coolant temperature sensor (all of these you can change them by yourself, just get the parts, get the part out of your car first before buying) i actually have the issue with a toyota, and that's what i did (took literally years of research, starting as just a guy interested in cars to a bit advanced in these mechanic basic maintenance stuff)
I think you have to remove a little more ground strap material
I think the whole thing with exposing the spark kernel really took traction in the 90s. There was a plug called splitfire and the plug was basically a side gap of the V split in ground strap to the electrode. I tryed them and they made zero difference. I do find that with the fine tip metal plugs they ingite better and stay clean longer. Another great video keep it up !
Would different octane fuels react differently to side gapping? I'm wondering if the speed at which the fuel combusts might determine whether or not side gapping is beneficial.
That's definitely a possibility.
Hey i have same car as you and it vibrates slightly when i have the AC on and stopping in a traffic light while the car is on drive, its not as worse if the car is on neutral. Is this an issue? Its worse if ive been driving hard before stopping at the traffic light.
Could be ignition related like worn spark plugs.
The problem is Crank Shaft position sensor. It needs to be changed. The car heats up and this sensor trips and the car does not run until you switch off and rest for a few minutes then restart. Change the sensor and you're golden again.
-clean map / maf / tmap (whatever the car in question has)
-change the air filter, checkk pcv valve,
-clean the throttle body, disconect the battery first, unplug it, get it out all the way then you can manipulate it ( if it is the electronicaly powered ones, otherwise you risk to mess it up)
-i would run an obd2 app based diagnostic
-change he spark plugs, then coil plugs.
-get a multimeter check all the fuses and relays, check alternator if it charges well
-get an aliexpress or (amazon for you) kit to clean injectors realy cheap and easy to do) clean them with brake fluids inward and backward and change the bascket filter in them
-check with the multimeter al the sensors: camshaft, crankshaft, maf, knock
-get crank and cam sensors out and clean them get all the burnt oil deposit out of them, if they're old, the magnet gets weaker so the signal weakens, even if it works and doesn't throw check engine light)
-check for vacuum leak with the fume technique (look it up on youtube, all these i'm telling you about are available in details on youtube)
-get compression test (off amazon) and check the recomended values.
also the driving hard then stoping and the car goes like it wants to shut off made me think about fuel pump, and crankshaft sensor, also the coolant temperature sensor (all of these you can change them by yourself, just get the parts, get the part out of your car first before buying)
i actually have the issue with a toyota, and that's what i did (took literally years of research, starting as just a guy interested in cars to a bit advanced in these mechanic basic maintenance stuff)