That was one of the best descriptions of an Electrical Panel and single phase power supply I have ever seen. That is from someone who has over 48 years in the electrical trade and has dealt with hundreds of people who did not understand those basic principles. Thank you very much for you top notch description.
It’s good to see someone cover this stuff, I see so many people trying to “design” systems on forums that don’t have a clue about how a panel actually works like this Those tri-lobular screws (the screws for the ground bar) are fancy, don’t lose them, because they’re not easy to find all by themselves. Something else you could demo with this test panel, is the different types of conduit and how they hook up to various boxes
Excellent How To... I'm liking this channel to.. and Excellent teacher 👏.. even if its still funny hearing about over the pond electrics compared to UK.. 😮😊.. but if you know you know.. stay safe 🏴
Great explanation. I also put myself in the category of "I'm not licensed, but I'm experienced" and I always pick up something new watching your videos :)
Love your new channel! As I am getting ready to this off grid thing in North Central Idaho I would love to see how to actually hookup, say two 6000xp's to the panel.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects Yes sir. do not get your backhoe into an underground main. Watched one melt to the ground from a careless digger. Every time it melted enough steel off the bucket to clear, the hydraulics dropped it into the feed again. That went on for hours as the whole machine was melting in places. They had to shut down a sub station to stop it.
Really appreciate your sharing your thoughts, experience, and knowledge. Simple, precise and demonstrated. Thanks much for your video. Be safe, healthy, strong, wise and successful. Blessings and prayers to you and family in Jesus's Mighty Name ☝ 🙏 🙌 💪 ❤
When I was a licensed electrician, my boss would have fired you for using that wire nut to twist the solid wires. While I can work, it can also fail at times. Best practice which my boss insisted upon is to twist those wires with your electrician's pliers, we called them Kliens, and then twist on the wire nut. That made a for sure solid twist that would not come unwound later. In fact we rarely used wire nuts as we used a crimp style connection that had a clip on cover for most wire joints, but that was professional equipment not often available to the general public.. No way to make those work without twisting the wires with pliers.
Part of the reason I mention this is that I have found whole houses where they screwed the wire nuts on and did not turn hard enough to twist the wires and it was a nightmare tracking all those failure points and each one was a fire hazard. We did the best we could to find all of them and suggested adding many extra smoke detectors to the building as an additional safety since it had bedrooms. One smoke detector for every isolated ceiling so it would show up fast instead of waiting for smoke to get down below door headers to trigger one. Even in closets. Easier just to pliers twist each joint to start with. Safety first as loose joints get really hot under load.
I noticed you put the ground for the outlet on the bar opposite of the one you put the extra lug for the incoming “service” ground wire. Are the two ground bars connected just from contact with the panel box or will you need a wire connecting them?
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects The box will connect them since you used the proper screws, but a firm wire connection is best. In a failure one is none and two is one.
Load centers don't have a main breaker, just main lugs. You can use either. Load centers are usually somewhat close to the breaker that supplies the power so you can turn off the panel nearby. If the panel was far away from the breaker, the supplies the power to it, I would use a main breaker panel. Also, if you want ton7se an interlock to have 2 different power feeds, then use a main breaker panel.
I have never purchased a panel without it already having at ground bar.. humm that's different. Question: do you require a permit/inspection to add another panel in your area? Also new for me in this area ( Newfoundland, Canada ), we have Code 1, Code 2 & Code 3 Residential Electricians. A code 1 is allowed to pull a permit, do the installation and then approve his/her own work. Code 2 & Code 3 Electricians require a certified Gov't inspector to approve their work. An Electrician gets a Code 1 designation after he/she has 30 approvals under their belt. Reason there are Code 1 Electricians is to free up the amount of work for the Gov't inspectors. I can tell yah that the work some of these Code 1 people do and approve is as bad as it gets. But with a code 1 designation, they never get inspected so just got to be good for 30 permits lol.. sad it is.
That was one of the best descriptions of an Electrical Panel and single phase power supply I have ever seen. That is from someone who has over 48 years in the electrical trade and has dealt with hundreds of people who did not understand those basic principles. Thank you very much for you top notch description.
As someone who wants to build a solar system when I can afford it. These videos are great. Love the teaching of basic fundamentals!
Great explanation Evan from the "Pole to the Plug"
Always room to learn what's tested and true.
It’s good to see someone cover this stuff, I see so many people trying to “design” systems on forums that don’t have a clue about how a panel actually works like this
Those tri-lobular screws (the screws for the ground bar) are fancy, don’t lose them, because they’re not easy to find all by themselves.
Something else you could demo with this test panel, is the different types of conduit and how they hook up to various boxes
Excellent How To... I'm liking this channel to.. and Excellent teacher 👏.. even if its still funny hearing about over the pond electrics compared to UK.. 😮😊.. but if you know you know.. stay safe 🏴
Good visual and just in time as I'm in the midst of installing a growatt inverter for testing loads.
Thanks so much for the explanation on the separation of the ground and neutral at the first place the power comes into your service box. Fred.
Excellent Video! Short sweet and to the point!!
Good to see a robertson screw on the ground bars. Best screws/screw drivers available.
What a great explanation! Need more of this!
Great explanation. I also put myself in the category of "I'm not licensed, but I'm experienced" and I always pick up something new watching your videos :)
Thanks, I needed that! From Hells Canyon, Frank.
Very informative video! Appreciate it!!
Thank you. Learned something, and I appreciate it. Enjoy your videos.
Love your new channel! As I am getting ready to this off grid thing in North Central Idaho I would love to see how to actually hookup, say two 6000xp's to the panel.
I live in Canada we always used the bigD panels. They came with everything you had to add to that one.
7200 volts at the transformer! Thanks for sharing, keep up the good work.
7209 is an example. It can vary quite a bit depending your location.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects Yes sir. do not get your backhoe into an underground main. Watched one melt to the ground from a careless digger. Every time it melted enough steel off the bucket to clear, the hydraulics dropped it into the feed again. That went on for hours as the whole machine was melting in places. They had to shut down a sub station to stop it.
Thanks, I’ve always been too nervous about poking around in a box to trace things out.
Another good video thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Really appreciate your sharing your thoughts, experience, and knowledge. Simple, precise and demonstrated. Thanks much for your video. Be safe, healthy, strong, wise and successful. Blessings and prayers to you and family in Jesus's Mighty Name ☝ 🙏 🙌 💪 ❤
Thanks Evan!
thx
👍👍👍👍👍
When I was a licensed electrician, my boss would have fired you for using that wire nut to twist the solid wires. While I can work, it can also fail at times. Best practice which my boss insisted upon is to twist those wires with your electrician's pliers, we called them Kliens, and then twist on the wire nut. That made a for sure solid twist that would not come unwound later. In fact we rarely used wire nuts as we used a crimp style connection that had a clip on cover for most wire joints, but that was professional equipment not often available to the general public.. No way to make those work without twisting the wires with pliers.
Part of the reason I mention this is that I have found whole houses where they screwed the wire nuts on and did not turn hard enough to twist the wires and it was a nightmare tracking all those failure points and each one was a fire hazard. We did the best we could to find all of them and suggested adding many extra smoke detectors to the building as an additional safety since it had bedrooms. One smoke detector for every isolated ceiling so it would show up fast instead of waiting for smoke to get down below door headers to trigger one. Even in closets. Easier just to pliers twist each joint to start with. Safety first as loose joints get really hot under load.
7:12 Is it allowed to install a electrical panel on wood wall?
Because I'm a also a electrician but in Germany and here it's not allowed!
There are no rules against installing on wood.
Good to know,Thanks. @@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects
I noticed you put the ground for the outlet on the bar opposite of the one you put the extra lug for the incoming “service” ground wire. Are the two ground bars connected just from contact with the panel box or will you need a wire connecting them?
Yes, I usually run a wire between all the ground bars.
@@CountryViewSolar-DIYProjects The box will connect them since you used the proper screws, but a firm wire connection is best. In a failure one is none and two is one.
You explained the color coding for the wires, but not sizing them or what the connector is rated for. Could you speak to those items?
The manual says to use 8 gauge wire. 8 Gauge THHN wire is rated at 55 amps.
What’s the difference between a load center and breaker panel and how do I know which one to install?
Load centers don't have a main breaker, just main lugs. You can use either. Load centers are usually somewhat close to the breaker that supplies the power so you can turn off the panel nearby. If the panel was far away from the breaker, the supplies the power to it, I would use a main breaker panel. Also, if you want ton7se an interlock to have 2 different power feeds, then use a main breaker panel.
This is the content all the Wranglerstar foamers wish Cody would do. Instead they get insane conspiracy theories and fashion advice for $5 a month.
I have never purchased a panel without it already having at ground bar.. humm that's different.
Question: do you require a permit/inspection to add another panel in your area?
Also new for me in this area ( Newfoundland, Canada ), we have Code 1, Code 2 & Code 3 Residential Electricians. A code 1 is allowed to pull a permit, do the installation and then approve his/her own work. Code 2 & Code 3 Electricians require a certified Gov't inspector to approve their work. An Electrician gets a Code 1 designation after he/she has 30 approvals under their belt. Reason there are Code 1 Electricians is to free up the amount of work for the Gov't inspectors. I can tell yah that the work some of these Code 1 people do and approve is as bad as it gets. But with a code 1 designation, they never get inspected so just got to be good for 30 permits lol.. sad it is.
No permits where we live