Attention! This video contains mistakes: 12:20 - the tightening torque is 50 Nm, not 60 Nm. 17:02 - the tightening torque is 30 Nm, not 40 Nm. 18:43 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 60 Nm. 18:50 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 60 Nm. 18:57 - the tightening torque is 90 Nm, not 80 Nm. 19:01 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 80 Nm. 19:14 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 70 Nm. 19:19 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 75 Nm. 19:27 - the tightening torque is 200 Nm, not 140 Nm. 21:30 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 65 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Good video I’m watching for the sequence and how to get the strut out and back in.. I am not trusting the torque specs of the video, as many have already commented.. I rely on the Audi Bentley manual. Wow please run these cars through a car wash or hose off all the dried mud before tackling these jobs.. but really good work.. I like that you made slack of the knuckle by loosing the axel bolt and the tie rod ball joint removed .. that made the strut stirup come out over the fwd lower CA super easy
Great video! Think I might be able to pull this off with all the tools needed. It would also be wise to change brakes and routers while doing this seeing how many things had to be pulled apart.
Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! At least one of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm, NOT 75Nm. At less than 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt. Other torque values for this job do not match the OEM [ELSA] tech manual values. Prime OEM examples are: "torque(Nm)+90degrees". None of Auto Doc's values match these, instead quoting a higher torque value, but does not quote from where it gets this data. Drive shaft nut - OEM Manual specifies 200Nm+180deg, ...NOT 140Nm as quoted in video. Remember! Auto Doc may publish INCORRECT info in good faith, but their disclaimer makes no apology for it. I have reported the error to them, but I don't hold a great deal of confidence of them checking or correcting it.
Really good video, nice of you to make these so people can fix their own cars. Only negative thing for me is that subtitles are too fast, but that's a minor thing.
You don’t need to take half of this stuff off! Don’t mess around with the pinch bolt if it’s seized, take the bolts out of the bush end instead and swing the arms around. Don’t take hub nut out, don’t take calliper and hose off, don’t take abs wiring off and don’t take track rod off. The stuff in this video is like brand new just dirty 😜
I just did it it took me 2hrs. You have to take caliper off, track rod end off and hose bracket and was still a pain. I didn't even attempt to take the pinch bolt out for the two upper arms because they are seized 99% of the time, I had to take the bolts out from the other end instead.
@@FoookOff I looked another video and yes, really 40 minutes job if You do not disassemble all unnessesary stuff shown here - just finished mine also opening only some bolts approx 1 hour
I don’t know how you got the control arm pinch bolt out that easily! Most of the cars people will be working on will be seized solid, mine included! Been working on it for three hours solid and all I’ve managed to do is snap the heads off both sides! It’s going to need drilling out. 🤦♂️ Otherwise good video.
:- If you snap off the bolt head, then use an M10x1.5 x30mm long 'connector nut' on the exposed threaded end. With luck and some washers/spacers as you go, you may draw it out by tightening the long nut onto it. DON'T use the original / short nut or even a pair of regular length nuts; there are not enough load-bearing thread and will easily strip the bolt threads, rendering it far harder to remove and needing specialist tools. Re-assembling - Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! At least one of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm NOT 75Nm. At 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt.
I was going to say, it looks like you can avoid having to remove/loosen a few things. I’m gonna tackle this soon. Wanted to see a video of how others have done it. This video makes it more tedious/complicated than what it is, but probably the ‘proper’ way if I was working at a shop. Still a good video to follow.
NOTE TO ALL VIEWERS: DO NOT TIGHTEN UPPER PINCH BOLT to the mentioned 75Nm!! Either the bolt will snap, or as in my case the alu around the bolt cracked, which ended up in a huge workshop-bill!! In general - there is no need to touch that bolt, so do not! H18 for wheel hub bolt - that size is very difficult to obtain - and it does not fit. It's an 19mm - H19!!
I heard all the arms are meant to torqued while they are under load of the car. Otherwise the premature wear. Anyone else heard this. Logically it does make sense under load because if not the bushes are under strain.
Dear Customer, thank you for contacting us. We would like to apologize for any happened inconveniences that were caused by us. In order to be able to provide you with further support and help, please send us a private message with the Order number via email info@autodoc.co.uk or form here: www.autodoc.parts/services/contact Looking forward to your reply. Best Regards, AUTODOC team
Nu desfaceți la fel ca el ca veți munci dublu și poate veți ajunge sa regretați, șurubul de prindere al bratelor superioare de fuzeta este blocat în 9 din 10 cazuri nu se desface decât cu lampa și ciocan la asta e nou..... dacă schimbări arcuri desfaceți: Roata Cele doua șuruburi care prind bratele superioare de flanșe amortizorului Șurubul de prinde telescopul de brațul inferior Șurubul care prinde furca de telescop, nu bateți cu ciocanul folosiți un hidraulic shock absorber removal Desfaceți cele patru șuruburi de prinde flanșe de caroserie Desfaceți bieleta anti rului Desfaceți bara de directie și asta e tot Asta e plătit pa ora desface toată masina sa schimbe un arc
If you’re about to embark on this, please for the love of god do not touch that upper pinch bolt, you do not need to remove it. Turned a 6 hour job in to a 6 week job for me. Just move the arms out the way.
In general, the replacement will be the same, the only thing that may differ slightly is the design features of your car. You can find more detailed information in the technical documentation for your car repair. AUTODOC
It is indeed M19 Hex! Also -Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! The displayed torque value for the hub fastener is way below that specified by ETKA (Audi tech manual).At least one other of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm NOT 75Nm. At 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt.
So are torque wrenches only needed for a couple of the bolts? Or is it just the ones you can be bothered with? A number of these nuts and bolts should also be replaced not reused. Why don't part sellers either include the replacement bolts or sell them? I'm fed up of having to drive to an dealership to buy nuts and bolts. Especially as they don't always have them in stock and I have to wait a week
You are absolutely right, in practice, it is imperative to always use a torque wrench and observe the appropriate tightening torques and the need to replace the bolts.
Que referencia de muelle es para muelle delanteros Audi A4 b8 motor 2000 143 CV el coche es del año 2008 ya e pedido los amortiguadores Sachs la referencia de los amortiguadores es 313364 los muelles quiero ponerlos de la misma marca que los amortiguadores saludos
WARNING DIY 'ers - Read the comments below. The sequence of operations may be OK, although it does not match the OEM Tech manual [ELSA] sequence. A number of fastener torque values are NOT the same as OEM specs. Using those in the video could either under-tighten (e.g. Drive shaft bolt) or over-tighten (e.g Upper pinch bolt), and could seriously affect safety!
All our videos are for informational purposes only. The replacement procedure may differ, you can familiarize yourself with all routine replacements directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service. AUTODOC
@@autodocukYour response seems at very much odds with "the spirit of informational purposes". If the information is specific and objective, i.e a torque value, but is incorrect (and clearly incorrect as there isn't a single A4 B8 variant that specifies some of the specific values you are promoting in your sequence's subtitles), then why display it at all? You are setting DIY'ers up for a fail as they are drawn to the video and not to the 'get-out-of-jail' disclaimer...as with 99.99% of terms and conditions!
![How to change rear brake pads on AUDI A4 B8 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IF9bOAh6-84/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change rear brake pads on AUDI A4 B8 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
![How to change front suspension arm / front control arm on Audi A4 B8 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
12:20 - the tightening torque is 50 Nm, not 60 Nm.
17:02 - the tightening torque is 30 Nm, not 40 Nm.
18:43 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 60 Nm.
18:50 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 60 Nm.
18:57 - the tightening torque is 90 Nm, not 80 Nm.
19:01 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 80 Nm.
19:14 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 70 Nm.
19:19 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 75 Nm.
19:27 - the tightening torque is 200 Nm, not 140 Nm.
21:30 - the tightening torque is 40 Nm, not 65 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Good video I’m watching for the sequence and how to get the strut out and back in.. I am not trusting the torque specs of the video, as many have already commented.. I rely on the Audi Bentley manual. Wow please run these cars through a car wash or hose off all the dried mud before tackling these jobs.. but really good work.. I like that you made slack of the knuckle by loosing the axel bolt and the tie rod ball joint removed .. that made the strut stirup come out over the fwd lower CA super easy
thanks for letting us know. Your feedback is much appreciated!
Great video! Think I might be able to pull this off with all the tools needed. It would also be wise to change brakes and routers while doing this seeing how many things had to be pulled apart.
Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! At least one of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm, NOT 75Nm. At less than 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt.
Other torque values for this job do not match the OEM [ELSA] tech manual values. Prime OEM examples are: "torque(Nm)+90degrees". None of Auto Doc's values match these, instead quoting a higher torque value, but does not quote from where it gets this data.
Drive shaft nut - OEM Manual specifies 200Nm+180deg, ...NOT 140Nm as quoted in video.
Remember! Auto Doc may publish INCORRECT info in good faith, but their disclaimer makes no apology for it. I have reported the error to them, but I don't hold a great deal of confidence of them checking or correcting it.
Really good video, nice of you to make these so people can fix their own cars. Only negative thing for me is that subtitles are too fast, but that's a minor thing.
Thank you for your comment and for such pleasant words, we will continue to delight you with new and interesting material.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
You don’t need to take half of this stuff off! Don’t mess around with the pinch bolt if it’s seized, take the bolts out of the bush end instead and swing the arms around. Don’t take hub nut out, don’t take calliper and hose off, don’t take abs wiring off and don’t take track rod off. The stuff in this video is like brand new just dirty 😜
That face with the tongue out is hilarious.
I just did it it took me 2hrs. You have to take caliper off, track rod end off and hose bracket and was still a pain. I didn't even attempt to take the pinch bolt out for the two upper arms because they are seized 99% of the time, I had to take the bolts out from the other end instead.
Done another one. Again I didn’t touch the calliper, hose or track rod.
@@FoookOff I looked another video and yes, really 40 minutes job if You do not disassemble all unnessesary stuff shown here - just finished mine also opening only some bolts approx 1 hour
I don’t know how you got the control arm pinch bolt out that easily! Most of the cars people will be working on will be seized solid, mine included! Been working on it for three hours solid and all I’ve managed to do is snap the heads off both sides! It’s going to need drilling out. 🤦♂️
Otherwise good video.
For better dismantling please use a spray wd-40.
AUTODOC
the exact same happened to me. step 1- spend a whole day drilling the bolt out 🤦♂️i really hope it's not the same on the other side...
:- If you snap off the bolt head, then use an M10x1.5 x30mm long 'connector nut' on the exposed threaded end. With luck and some washers/spacers as you go, you may draw it out by tightening the long nut onto it. DON'T use the original / short nut or even a pair of regular length nuts; there are not enough load-bearing thread and will easily strip the bolt threads, rendering it far harder to remove and needing specialist tools.
Re-assembling - Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! At least one of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm NOT 75Nm. At 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt.
@@russ-dakin6570 really smart idea thank you for the advice
That's where I'm stuck at too. I didn't want to snap anything but man that thing is seized up.
You can do this process in about a quarter of the steps. You don't need to take all that stuff apart
I was going to say, it looks like you can avoid having to remove/loosen a few things. I’m gonna tackle this soon. Wanted to see a video of how others have done it. This video makes it more tedious/complicated than what it is, but probably the ‘proper’ way if I was working at a shop. Still a good video to follow.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
AUTODOC
NOTE TO ALL VIEWERS:
DO NOT TIGHTEN UPPER PINCH BOLT to the mentioned 75Nm!! Either the bolt will snap, or as in my case the alu around the bolt cracked, which ended up in a huge workshop-bill!!
In general - there is no need to touch that bolt, so do not!
H18 for wheel hub bolt - that size is very difficult to obtain - and it does not fit. It's an 19mm - H19!!
I heard all the arms are meant to torqued while they are under load of the car. Otherwise the premature wear. Anyone else heard this. Logically it does make sense under load because if not the bushes are under strain.
That's right, you should tighten it when the suspension is under load; to do this, use a stop to bring the suspension into working condition
The pain of getting about half way done and realising your suspension arm is missing a bush. 😅 Guess im going back to euro car parts.
Dear Customer,
thank you for contacting us.
We would like to apologize for any happened inconveniences that were caused by us.
In order to be able to provide you with further support and help, please send us a private message with the Order number via email info@autodoc.co.uk or form here: www.autodoc.parts/services/contact
Looking forward to your reply.
Best Regards,
AUTODOC team
Excellent video tutorial, well done, very clear information, you are good!
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorial was useful to you.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
taking off that pinch bolt is never that easy just so you all know.
Take the bolts out the other end then swing the arms around unless replacing arms
@@FoookOff true but I always reply my upper control arms
When changing worn out suspension.
Very informative good video
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know this tutorials was useful to you.
Stay tuned for more!
Best regards, Autodoc!
Excellent work carried out
Nu desfaceți la fel ca el ca veți munci dublu și poate veți ajunge sa regretați, șurubul de prindere al bratelor superioare de fuzeta este blocat în 9 din 10 cazuri nu se desface decât cu lampa și ciocan la asta e nou..... dacă schimbări arcuri desfaceți:
Roata
Cele doua șuruburi care prind bratele superioare de flanșe amortizorului
Șurubul de prinde telescopul de brațul inferior
Șurubul care prinde furca de telescop, nu bateți cu ciocanul folosiți un hidraulic shock absorber removal
Desfaceți cele patru șuruburi de prinde flanșe de caroserie
Desfaceți bieleta anti rului
Desfaceți bara de directie și asta e tot
Asta e plătit pa ora desface toată masina sa schimbe un arc
If you’re about to embark on this, please for the love of god do not touch that upper pinch bolt, you do not need to remove it. Turned a 6 hour job in to a 6 week job for me. Just move the arms out the way.
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
Good 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Are you sure the axle nut removal requires a H18?
On my A4 quattro 2016 it is a H19...
In general, the replacement will be the same, the only thing that may differ slightly is the design features of your car.
You can find more detailed information in the technical documentation for your car repair.
AUTODOC
It is indeed M19 Hex! Also -Double check torque figures with Manuf. recommendations!! The displayed torque value for the hub fastener is way below that specified by ETKA (Audi tech manual).At least one other of the values given is almost double its required torque [upper pinch bolt 40Nm NOT 75Nm. At 75 Nm it will snap the M10 bolt.
So are torque wrenches only needed for a couple of the bolts? Or is it just the ones you can be bothered with? A number of these nuts and bolts should also be replaced not reused. Why don't part sellers either include the replacement bolts or sell them? I'm fed up of having to drive to an dealership to buy nuts and bolts. Especially as they don't always have them in stock and I have to wait a week
You are absolutely right, in practice, it is imperative to always use a torque wrench and observe the appropriate tightening torques and the need to replace the bolts.
@@autodocuk are you going to start selling the replacement nuts and bolts? Being able to buy it all from one place is easier.
Que referencia de muelle es para muelle delanteros Audi A4 b8 motor 2000 143 CV el coche es del año 2008 ya e pedido los amortiguadores Sachs la referencia de los amortiguadores es 313364 los muelles quiero ponerlos de la misma marca que los amortiguadores saludos
Gracias por su consulta. Por favor, ponga en contacto con nuestra Atención al Cliente: www.autodoc.es/services/contact
WARNING DIY 'ers - Read the comments below. The sequence of operations may be OK, although it does not match the OEM Tech manual [ELSA] sequence. A number of fastener torque values are NOT the same as OEM specs. Using those in the video could either under-tighten (e.g. Drive shaft bolt) or over-tighten (e.g Upper pinch bolt), and could seriously affect safety!
All our videos are for informational purposes only.
The replacement procedure may differ, you can familiarize yourself with all routine replacements directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service.
AUTODOC
@@autodocukYour response seems at very much odds with "the spirit of informational purposes". If the information is specific and objective, i.e a torque value, but is incorrect (and clearly incorrect as there isn't a single A4 B8 variant that specifies some of the specific values you are promoting in your sequence's subtitles), then why display it at all? You are setting DIY'ers up for a fail as they are drawn to the video and not to the 'get-out-of-jail' disclaimer...as with 99.99% of terms and conditions!