It's not whether you can or can't, it's usually more about how much you want it, this is an amazing build, both lightweight AND can be transported by bike, you don't see too many of them.
Thanks a lot. Here's another recent one... ua-cam.com/video/d-zX_Xuf5H0/v-deo.html and please check my sailing playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLiHIFr9rR7O8dUu3Du-tZOJtS-PHofjcZ.html
Love it. I'm building a fishing kayak using the stitch and glue method, but instead of using G10 like you I'm making my own carbon sandwich panels. Thanks for sharing!
So interesting to see your method of making the mast partner. The wooden one split at the belaying pins on my First Mate so I welded up an aluminum one since that's what I know how to do.
@@fossilfool I'm Jeff from the WBF, the guy with the sprit rig. I really like the boat and I think it's just about perfect for a single handed sailor. Always interested to see what you're doing with the First Mod and what can be done with epoxy and carbon fiber. Someday I want to build a carbon fiber top mast for the topsail I sewed a while back.
@@fossilfool I'll definitely be looking forward to that video! I'll get some questions together at some point and get your input. The topmast project is a while out yet, I think I want to work on the boom tent next.
I live in San Rafael and feel like I must’ve met you somewhere before. I really admire your videos and this boat in particular. That really is my dream boat to take out and camp on Tomales Bay. Don’t know if you’ve considered that or if your boat will beach nicely. But the camping out there is stellar. I take my paddleboard out there and camp as often as I can get away. Highly recommended. Great work.
One thing to bear in mind - G10 contains 10% fiber and 90% epoxy. If you know anything about fiberglass costruction that is a horrible ratio. That is why it is so translucent. Obviously this is working for now on this small boat but it will likey develope cracks that as I said are only held together by 10% of 1/16th of an inch worth of fiberglass. You whould get more strength by making your own sheets with glass cloth and epoxy laid up on a flat waxed surface and then using them the same way. If I want my own boat to last a lifetime i would use 2 layers with urathane foam in between which of course is a more "standard method" but then there is a reason for that.
Thx for your comment. Where did you get that stat from? When I work with carbon and glass, I am typically able to hit a 55% fiber ratio using primitive methods like electrical tape to squeeze out excess. My understanding is that G10 is formed with pressure and heat in a factory setting, so I would think they could well exceed the fiber ratio I'm getting in a garage setting with my basic methods. I don't see why it would be 90% epoxy. Curious to look into that more.
@@jampasritalon4180 That's interesting. I've never heard that number before. I've used thick G10 from McMaster for hard point material for bolted joints in composite laminates, and the stuff I've used was definitely not chopped strand fiberglass. I could see the weave and layers of fabric. Maybe there are different types of G10?
@@SasquatchComposites there are in fact products with differing amounts of fiberglass but they are not marketed as G10. I have used G10 for purposes similar to yours. I was looking for a material to use in aircraft wing fixtures for an experimental aircaft but I ruled out G10 as too fragile and brittle to risk a life on. The G10 I messed with was thicker - 1/4 to 3/8 inch and I too recall seeing fiber mesh cloth (I never mentioned loose fiber btw) but I only used it for compression loads - never tension.
really impressed with your water tight hatch! I have spent an unreasonable amount of time thinking about ways to make DIY water tight hatches and this is the first time I have encountered the idea of a tapered fit! what angle is the taper? I presume you got the surfaces to fit exactly by assembling them together or using one as the mold for the other or something like that? if the hull flexes can it pop open? have you tested it against a high pressure hose or buckets of water or similar?
Hi Dominic, I did a capsize test standing on the boat upside down, and it did pretty well. The front hatch has about a 20 degree angle all around. It does let water in on choppy days when everything is wet and I’m hitting waves. Hitting waves compresses the flexible G10 bow panels a little which squeezes out a little air, then there’s negative pressure pulling water in as the bow takes its shape again. The aft buoyancy compartment has a smaller opening with flat mating surfaces and a much stiffer hull in a part of the boat that doesn’t bash waves and it stays bone dry. Good luck!
@@fossilfool interesting, thanks! I want hatches for the cockpit of my proa so I can have camping gear etc inside. sometimes a wave comes over so it would have standing water on it until it drains. I guess a few drips would be acceptable but... watertight hatch is just a fascinating design problem! especially with the additional constraint of DIY friendly. Adding flexing to the list of tests! It has just occured to me that capsize test and standing on it will have an air bubble inside the hatch, preventing water going in. maybe as you are coming over though? I think throwing a bucket of water at it is a reasonable test for sailing, though
@@dominictarrsailing It's been great having big compartments for multi-day outings. The plans for my boat only mentioned installing small inspection holes. Good luck with your mod!
Is it correct to assume the G10 was the lightest material (among those meeting adequate strength) ie fiberglass over foam and wood for structure? Thank you.
Not quite... It's a material that I love that I had on hand and yes it is a bit lighter than 1/4" marine plywood for the same tensile strength. But when you compensate for the lack of stiffness weight turns out the same. No cored materials were considered.
I really like your concept and style l have a concern about how the G 10 and the rest of the epoxy work will hold up to UV damage Over time. I know a clear coat is an option because the translucent hull is great. One other thing is did you scale up the plans yourself Or is that an option in the plans? I enjoy your videos and carbon fiber work!
Time will tell. I am pretty strict about covering the boat if it's going to sit in the sun for more than a couple hours. I went with Interlux Perfection Plus which is a 2 part varnish, and have done 6 coats. So far so good. I have also put chunks of G10 in the sun with less varnish and no varnish to see what happens. The result is that it turns a very ugly orange / brown over time. But it's still quite strong and flexible. I think a lot more UV would be needed for it to be noticeably weak. You get a big warning of it changing color before it starts to be unsafe strengthwise. If it does get orange over time, I would probably paint it.
It's not whether you can or can't, it's usually more about how much you want it, this is an amazing build, both lightweight AND can be transported by bike, you don't see too many of them.
Thx a lot, glad you enjoyed!
Using thin G-10, genius! I use it for backing plates. Great stuff.
Excellent boat! I am looking forward to seeling more sailing footage.
Thanks a lot. Here's another recent one... ua-cam.com/video/d-zX_Xuf5H0/v-deo.html and please check my sailing playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLiHIFr9rR7O8dUu3Du-tZOJtS-PHofjcZ.html
Love it. I'm building a fishing kayak using the stitch and glue method, but instead of using G10 like you I'm making my own carbon sandwich panels. Thanks for sharing!
Good luck with your build.
Admire your tenacity and ability, broheem. Respect!
Great job!
So interesting to see your method of making the mast partner. The wooden one split at the belaying pins on my First Mate so I welded up an aluminum one since that's what I know how to do.
Great to hear from other Lillistone sailors. How do you like the boat? What rig do you sail?
@@fossilfool I'm Jeff from the WBF, the guy with the sprit rig. I really like the boat and I think it's just about perfect for a single handed sailor. Always interested to see what you're doing with the First Mod and what can be done with epoxy and carbon fiber. Someday I want to build a carbon fiber top mast for the topsail I sewed a while back.
@@Jeffs_Workshop Oh sweet. Feel freed to reach out for tips on the mast. I hope to post one on mast making with sleeving.
@@fossilfool I'll definitely be looking forward to that video! I'll get some questions together at some point and get your input. The topmast project is a while out yet, I think I want to work on the boom tent next.
I live in San Rafael and feel like I must’ve met you somewhere before. I really admire your videos and this boat in particular. That really is my dream boat to take out and camp on Tomales Bay. Don’t know if you’ve considered that or if your boat will beach nicely. But the camping out there is stellar. I take my paddleboard out there and camp as often as I can get away. Highly recommended. Great work.
One thing to bear in mind - G10 contains 10% fiber and 90% epoxy. If you know anything about fiberglass costruction that is a horrible ratio. That is why it is so translucent. Obviously this is working for now on this small boat but it will likey develope cracks that as I said are only held together by 10% of 1/16th of an inch worth of fiberglass. You whould get more strength by making your own sheets with glass cloth and epoxy laid up on a flat waxed surface and then using them the same way. If I want my own boat to last a lifetime i would use 2 layers with urathane foam in between which of course is a more "standard method" but then there is a reason for that.
Thx for your comment. Where did you get that stat from? When I work with carbon and glass, I am typically able to hit a 55% fiber ratio using primitive methods like electrical tape to squeeze out excess. My understanding is that G10 is formed with pressure and heat in a factory setting, so I would think they could well exceed the fiber ratio I'm getting in a garage setting with my basic methods. I don't see why it would be 90% epoxy. Curious to look into that more.
@@fossilfool G15 has 15% fiberglass.
@@jampasritalon4180 That's interesting. I've never heard that number before. I've used thick G10 from McMaster for hard point material for bolted joints in composite laminates, and the stuff I've used was definitely not chopped strand fiberglass. I could see the weave and layers of fabric. Maybe there are different types of G10?
@@SasquatchComposites there are in fact products with differing amounts of fiberglass but they are not marketed as G10. I have used G10 for purposes similar to yours. I was looking for a material to use in aircraft wing fixtures for an experimental aircaft but I ruled out G10 as too fragile and brittle to risk a life on. The G10 I messed with was thicker - 1/4 to 3/8 inch and I too recall seeing fiber mesh cloth (I never mentioned loose fiber btw) but I only used it for compression loads - never tension.
really impressed with your water tight hatch! I have spent an unreasonable amount of time thinking about ways to make DIY water tight hatches and this is the first time I have encountered the idea of a tapered fit! what angle is the taper? I presume you got the surfaces to fit exactly by assembling them together or using one as the mold for the other or something like that? if the hull flexes can it pop open? have you tested it against a high pressure hose or buckets of water or similar?
Hi Dominic, I did a capsize test standing on the boat upside down, and it did pretty well. The front hatch has about a 20 degree angle all around. It does let water in on choppy days when everything is wet and I’m hitting waves. Hitting waves compresses the flexible G10 bow panels a little which squeezes out a little air, then there’s negative pressure pulling water in as the bow takes its shape again. The aft buoyancy compartment has a smaller opening with flat mating surfaces and a much stiffer hull in a part of the boat that doesn’t bash waves and it stays bone dry. Good luck!
@@fossilfool interesting, thanks! I want hatches for the cockpit of my proa so I can have camping gear etc inside. sometimes a wave comes over so it would have standing water on it until it drains. I guess a few drips would be acceptable but... watertight hatch is just a fascinating design problem! especially with the additional constraint of DIY friendly. Adding flexing to the list of tests!
It has just occured to me that capsize test and standing on it will have an air bubble inside the hatch, preventing water going in. maybe as you are coming over though? I think throwing a bucket of water at it is a reasonable test for sailing, though
@@dominictarrsailing It's been great having big compartments for multi-day outings. The plans for my boat only mentioned installing small inspection holes. Good luck with your mod!
Is it correct to assume the G10 was the lightest material (among those meeting adequate strength) ie fiberglass over foam and wood for structure? Thank you.
Not quite... It's a material that I love that I had on hand and yes it is a bit lighter than 1/4" marine plywood for the same tensile strength. But when you compensate for the lack of stiffness weight turns out the same. No cored materials were considered.
@@fossilfool thank u!
I really like your concept and style l have a concern about how the G 10 and the rest of the epoxy work will hold up to UV damage
Over time. I know a clear coat is an option because the translucent hull is great. One other thing is did you scale up the plans yourself
Or is that an option in the plans? I enjoy your videos and carbon fiber work!
Time will tell. I am pretty strict about covering the boat if it's going to sit in the sun for more than a couple hours. I went with Interlux Perfection Plus which is a 2 part varnish, and have done 6 coats. So far so good. I have also put chunks of G10 in the sun with less varnish and no varnish to see what happens. The result is that it turns a very ugly orange / brown over time. But it's still quite strong and flexible. I think a lot more UV would be needed for it to be noticeably weak. You get a big warning of it changing color before it starts to be unsafe strengthwise. If it does get orange over time, I would probably paint it.