Awesome video thank you. I know an old video but still useful. I don't think CFL's and most bulbs don't like dimmers. What type of drill bit do you need to drill thru metal, I assume a special bit.
Yes, some CFL lamps are not dimmer compatible, so you need to be sure and select one that is. I later swapped to a dimmable LED lamp: ua-cam.com/video/w7sRYU2Jd5c/v-deo.html This works a whole lot better and yes, you still need to select an LED driver that's dimmer capable.
That's a good question, 2 answers: 1. Simple answer is if the plug on the lamp is not polarized, it doesn't matter since you can put the plug in either direction. 2: If the plug is polarized, grab an ohm meter and set it to continuity scale or use a circuit test light. Then connect to one pin of the plug and test each wire at the top of the lamp. If no continuity, test on the other plug pin. If your lamp has a dimmer switch (like all mine do), one side of the plug will run straight through (i.e. shows a connection), the other side passes through the dimmer (shows no connection). On my lamp, I found the hot wire off the plug ran straight through and the neutral went through the dimmer.
Hello there . I have a question for you.... Can a barrel LED non dimmable ceiling mounted light be manually changed into a dimmable one? The barrel lamp is modern style and there is no access to change the lightbulb. Please do let know .... I’ve bought several under an ill informed seems person and now stuck with too much light.
I'm not familiar with that style of lamp. But see if there is a separate LED driver module inside that can be accessed. If so, remove it and see if you can find the label and read the output data. If so, then it's usually not a problem to replace the non-dimming driver module with a dimmable one of similar specifications. Those will list an output current and voltage range, find a replacement that matches that data as close as possible. You can see a typical LED driver in the later videos when I converted this lamp to a flat LED: ua-cam.com/video/dkL13Z4xwbM/v-deo.html
I kept the bulb holer with the 2 pins so that I could use some high wattage bulbs as dump loads for DC power supplies, DC-DC converters, etc. With the quartz glass bulb shields, I ended using 2 of those to repair my Advantium SpeedCook over as it had an exposed halogen bulb for browning and that bulb failed due to liquids boiling and splattering off food as it cooked: ua-cam.com/video/PioGNEps6yU/v-deo.html
I found 118mm LED replacement bulbs for my 3 halogen torchiere lamps. I was quite astonished to discover that the built-in dimmer switches on each of them failed to completely remove power to bulb sockets even when clicked to the off position. My voltmeter showed 118V regardless of dimmer position. It seems that there was not enough current to excite a halogen bulb but the LED's remained faintly lit even in the off position. My fear is that the LED bulbs might fail prematurely due to constant power supplied to them. Has anyone else experienced this problem with Torchiere dimmers? I'm inclined to replace the dimmers with on/off switches.
Interesting. I've not found that on my dimmer switches, they all have a physical contact that disconnects when off then have a low/dimmed and high or direct connected mode. But yes, if you have a dimmer that only dims way down instead of turning off might be an issue. Replacing then with a real switch is probably a decent idea. I have one old X10 dimmer that will cause LEDs to glow dimly and a CFL lamp to flash on and off.
@@The4Crawler All three torchiere lamps are now unplugged. I'm tempted to reinstall halogen bulb in one of the lamps and test just how many watts these things may have been drawing for so many years.
@@The4Crawler As it turns out, the current draw is too small to register at all on my Kill-A-Watt meter for both the Halogen bulb and the LED. When I have the time I might test the current draw with my multimeter, but that requires a bit of work for the inline test.
I have seven of these Halogen Torchiere Lamps and I want to convert all of them the problem is that where you can find a socket ceramic that support 100 watts , 150 Watts and up and from where you can buy them Thanks for the video.
I found the ones I used at a local hardware store that had a decent lighting section. You might also see if you have a local lamps/lighting store and see what they have. Or here's an Amazon link with a socket that looks similar to one I used: amzn.to/2wgJhlf
Thanks heaps 4 the response the only issues with that ceramic socket is that it support only a Max of 60W anyhow, I will try to find a non Ceramic socket Lamp Holder that Support at least a 100W and up Thanks again for the help
I have a Ceiling Fixture in my home and it had a ceramic Socket 250V, 660W Lamp Holder exactly as the one you've used to convert your Torchiere LampThere is a warning on the Fixture to not use more than a 60 Watts with that ceramic Socket Do you think the following Socket should work it support 250W www.rona.ca/en/socket---turn-knob-socket-0480078--1 Thanks again
Well that's a good job on a floor lamp Torchiere Style Switch and my floor lamp is from work and I had to install about 10feet ofzip chrord and my North WaLL Outlet wasn't working for a long time in this old hotel so I had The Maintenance Man rehook the wall outlet up and I decided to try The West WaLL outlet and now the bulb socket from Home Depot isn't working and I can't seem to trun the 60 watt floor lamp on at the moment.Any Suggestions for getting my switch to work again??Thanks,Leighton R.Hogue.www.broadmoor.com 5Diamond Yardman.
Is it a dimmer type of switch in the lamp? If so, it may be the dimming circuit has failed or isn't compatible with the bulb you are using. One option is to replace the switch. See if you can find a small rotary on/off switch that's fit into the post and see if you can replace the switch that's in there. Usually a nut holds the switch in place. You'll need to identify the wires on the old switch, one pair will be switched and then other pair just connects straight through.
![[SHORT VERSION] How to Rewire an Antique Floor Lamp So It Doesn't Burn Your House Down](/img/n.gif)
I've made a new version of this lamp without the lamp shade:
ua-cam.com/video/3LGKMTKSUWk/v-deo.html
Awesome video thank you. I know an old video but still useful. I don't think CFL's and most bulbs don't like dimmers. What type of drill bit do you need to drill thru metal, I assume a special bit.
Yes, some CFL lamps are not dimmer compatible, so you need to be sure and select one that is. I later swapped to a dimmable LED lamp:
ua-cam.com/video/w7sRYU2Jd5c/v-deo.html
This works a whole lot better and yes, you still need to select an LED driver that's dimmer capable.
noobie question... how do you know which wire from the lamp connects to the white/black one on the pigtail socket?
That's a good question, 2 answers:
1. Simple answer is if the plug on the lamp is not polarized, it doesn't matter since you can put the plug in either direction.
2: If the plug is polarized, grab an ohm meter and set it to continuity scale or use a circuit test light. Then connect to one pin of the plug and test each wire at the top of the lamp. If no continuity, test on the other plug pin. If your lamp has a dimmer switch (like all mine do), one side of the plug will run straight through (i.e. shows a connection), the other side passes through the dimmer (shows no connection). On my lamp, I found the hot wire off the plug ran straight through and the neutral went through the dimmer.
Hello there .
I have a question for you....
Can a barrel LED non dimmable ceiling mounted light be manually changed into a dimmable one?
The barrel lamp is modern style and there is no access to change the lightbulb.
Please do let know ....
I’ve bought several under an ill informed seems person and now stuck with too much light.
I'm not familiar with that style of lamp. But see if there is a separate LED driver module inside that can be accessed. If so, remove it and see if you can find the label and read the output data. If so, then it's usually not a problem to replace the non-dimming driver module with a dimmable one of similar specifications. Those will list an output current and voltage range, find a replacement that matches that data as close as possible. You can see a typical LED driver in the later videos when I converted this lamp to a flat LED:
ua-cam.com/video/dkL13Z4xwbM/v-deo.html
R Brown thank you so very much for replying .... will do my best
So, what did you do with the old parts - you mentioned having a plan for them.
I kept the bulb holer with the 2 pins so that I could use some high wattage bulbs as dump loads for DC power supplies, DC-DC converters, etc. With the quartz glass bulb shields, I ended using 2 of those to repair my Advantium SpeedCook over as it had an exposed halogen bulb for browning and that bulb failed due to liquids boiling and splattering off food as it cooked:
ua-cam.com/video/PioGNEps6yU/v-deo.html
I found 118mm LED replacement bulbs for my 3 halogen torchiere lamps. I was quite astonished to discover that the built-in dimmer switches on each of them failed to completely remove power to bulb sockets even when clicked to the off position. My voltmeter showed 118V regardless of dimmer position. It seems that there was not enough current to excite a halogen bulb but the LED's remained faintly lit even in the off position. My fear is that the LED bulbs might fail prematurely due to constant power supplied to them. Has anyone else experienced this problem with Torchiere dimmers? I'm inclined to replace the dimmers with on/off switches.
Interesting. I've not found that on my dimmer switches, they all have a physical contact that disconnects when off then have a low/dimmed and high or direct connected mode. But yes, if you have a dimmer that only dims way down instead of turning off might be an issue. Replacing then with a real switch is probably a decent idea. I have one old X10 dimmer that will cause LEDs to glow dimly and a CFL lamp to flash on and off.
@@The4Crawler All three torchiere lamps are now unplugged. I'm tempted to reinstall halogen bulb in one of the lamps and test just how many watts these things may have been drawing for so many years.
Yes, that would be interesting to see how much power was being used.
@@The4Crawler As it turns out, the current draw is too small to register at all on my Kill-A-Watt meter for both the Halogen bulb and the LED. When I have the time I might test the current draw with my multimeter, but that requires a bit of work for the inline test.
Sounds good. Yes, it's probably only a fraction of a watt and the normal Kill-A-Watt meter won't pick that up..
I have seven of these Halogen Torchiere Lamps and I want to convert all of them
the problem is that where you can find a socket ceramic that support 100 watts , 150 Watts and up and from where you can buy them
Thanks for the video.
I found the ones I used at a local hardware store that had a decent lighting section. You might also see if you have a local lamps/lighting store and see what they have. Or here's an Amazon link with a socket that looks similar to one I used:
amzn.to/2wgJhlf
Thanks heaps 4 the response
the only issues with that ceramic socket is that it support only a Max of 60W
anyhow, I will try to find a non Ceramic socket Lamp Holder that Support at least a 100W and up
Thanks again for the help
Not sure if there's a typo in the listing or not but I see 660W, which would be 5 amps @ 110 volts.
I have a Ceiling Fixture in my home and it had a ceramic Socket 250V,
660W Lamp Holder exactly as the one you've used to convert your Torchiere LampThere is a warning on the Fixture to not use more than a 60 Watts with that ceramic Socket Do you think the following Socket should work it support 250W
www.rona.ca/en/socket---turn-knob-socket-0480078--1
Thanks again
Looks like it says 250W in the listing so if that's correct, then is should be good for that much power.
Well that's a good job on a floor lamp Torchiere Style Switch and my floor lamp is from work and I had to install about 10feet ofzip chrord and my North WaLL Outlet wasn't working for a long time in this old hotel so I had The Maintenance Man rehook the wall outlet up and I decided to try The West WaLL outlet and now the bulb socket from Home Depot isn't working and I can't seem to trun the 60 watt floor lamp on at the moment.Any Suggestions for getting my switch to work again??Thanks,Leighton R.Hogue.www.broadmoor.com 5Diamond Yardman.
Is it a dimmer type of switch in the lamp? If so, it may be the dimming circuit has failed or isn't compatible with the bulb you are using. One option is to replace the switch. See if you can find a small rotary on/off switch that's fit into the post and see if you can replace the switch that's in there. Usually a nut holds the switch in place. You'll need to identify the wires on the old switch, one pair will be switched and then other pair just connects straight through.
NO