So many questions. This is amazing, but I'm going to have to watch it a few more times to not miss anything. It takes a while to keep resetting when I miss a step, and nothing works, then I have to go back five minutes and figure out what it was I missed! Thanks for the good tutorials.
Not finished watching yet, but so far there is a lot of really important information in a nice and easy format. The examples you are using including the graphic show exactly what is going on. Thanks again.
Thanks for this wonderful tutorial, Boris.I'll rewatch it soon, just to get the most from your efforts. This module is truly powerful and your words about trying out the presets have not fallen on deaf ears.
This is the second of your videos that I see. I'm loving it. This is really about how to use creatively the modules. How many possibilities the techniques you show here open!
Thank you for these tutorials. I started using Darktable about 2 weeks ago. After using Lightroom for 10 years I'm finding the early learning curve here steep, but you (and Bruce Williams and Aurelien) are helping me make sense of it all.
This is amazing! Thanks so much for this - even with just copying your exact settings for the tulip photo I was able to turn a picture I was disappointed with into a really nice image - wow !
Thanks again for your explanations. Although I think this module is far to complex to remember what slider does what if one doesn't use it on a daily basis, I love to watch your videos as you show so many really useful hints "on the fly". Personally I will stay with the local contrast module. With this one there is to much trial and error for me. Finally it always ends with frustration for me (same as with blend modes and the channel mixer - lol)
Hey great video as always. I wanted to ask you a bit more about your trick to pull the surface detail from exterior wall of that building. From the steps of the technique shown in the video, and the processing that occurs, it seem so to me that this is very similar to using unsharp mask to do local contrast enhancement (i.e. unsharp mask using a large blur radius). Other than the fact that using the diffusion module keeps everything in the scene referred workflow, do you see it as really the same technique? I did some experiments comparing the technique in the video to other ways that add local contrast, and the results looked very similar. So it's definitely "another tool for the toolbox", but I was curious about the differences conceptually, if any, with "unsharp masking using a large blur radius".
Thank you Boris, another magical demonstration!!.too bad I'm not perfect enough in English to understand but I also like reading...;) (thank you Google for the approximate translations..lol) Bravo to you Boris. I'll keep my eyes open for the rest ;) Yvan
Boris, I have used Diffuse and sharpen for a while now, and I love all the combination. But - I have still not been able to detect a difference in my images when I operate the xst order anisotropy sliders. They are used in all presets, typically the 1st and 3rd, but even when I slide along with those combinations I hardly see anything change, not in the image and not in the waveform diagram. I could easily see a change in your illustration with the concentric circles - but in my daily images ... no improvement to detect. So, how could I ever use those sliders with an expectation of improving this or that in one of my images? Have you experienced this anisotropy to shine with your non experimental images?
Yes, there are differences. The idea behind anisotropy is to shift the center of gravity of sharpening or diffusion. Shifted to the left, sharpening or diffusion tends to follow gradients and to the right, both follow edges. This is not as important for diffusion as it is for sharpening. If you move the anisotropy to the right when sharpening, you avoid fringing at the edges, because the sharpening tends to run along the edges. You can see this best on the edges, which have very strong light differences. For example, if you have a portrait of someone wearing a darker/black shirt in a light/white background. If you then want to increase local contrast or sharpening, you can very quickly create a darker edge (fringing). Especially if you use 1st or 2dn order speed with a higher radius span. If you then move the anisotropy for corresponding order speeds to the right, the sharpening tends to follow the edges and the fringing disappears or is reduced. With diffusion, you use it more to the right if you want to remove noise, for example, and don't want the edges to be diffused very much, so that they remain sharp. You can only see the effects clearly when you zoom to 100%. At other zoom levels on the screen, the display quality is greatly reduced to reduce the processing time.
@@s7habo Thank you, Boris. This makes sense. I will check out and focus more on your explained combinations at 100 percent. If my vision fails me, I'll be back of course, like Arnold ;O)
@@Eigil_Skovgaard And increase the number of iterations. Then you will recognize the effect even more. Have fun trying it out. Perhaps you will find one or more useful combinations. 😉
Not really connected with this module but in the lady with dog on path image, the bright, white object the distant man is holding I find a major distraction. I'm not sure if it's a bug or there is some technical reason for it, but if I use a mask and then select a preset, the mask is lost. That causes a problem when trying different presets as I have to draw the mask for every new preset. I have found a workaround that is to create a new instance of (SAY) the exposure module (because it's early in the pixel pipe), not make any changes in exposure but create a mask in that module and then re-use the mask in the diffuse and sharpen module. I really like the technique using subtract blend mode to recover highlight detail, I will try that as it's one I have never used. The improvements in the flower, town hall and snow scenes are very impressive and transform the images. As usual, I need to watch again in slow motion to catch all the sliders movements etc., but thank you again for sharing your knowledge and techniques.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Hands down, best introduction into new module. Explanation and empirical uses.
So many questions. This is amazing, but I'm going to have to watch it a few more times to not miss anything. It takes a while to keep resetting when I miss a step, and nothing works, then I have to go back five minutes and figure out what it was I missed! Thanks for the good tutorials.
Not finished watching yet, but so far there is a lot of really important information in a nice and easy format. The examples you are using including the graphic show exactly what is going on. Thanks again.
Thanks for this wonderful tutorial, Boris.I'll rewatch it soon, just to get the most from your efforts. This module is truly powerful and your words about trying out the presets have not fallen on deaf ears.
This is the second of your videos that I see. I'm loving it. This is really about how to use creatively the modules. How many possibilities the techniques you show here open!
Thank you for these tutorials. I started using Darktable about 2 weeks ago. After using Lightroom for 10 years I'm finding the early learning curve here steep, but you (and Bruce Williams and Aurelien) are helping me make sense of it all.
Great job on showing actual application Boris!
Very interesting and informative video, Boris. Thank you - and keep them coming, please.
This is amazing! Thanks so much for this - even with just copying your exact settings for the tulip photo I was able to turn a picture I was disappointed with into a really nice image - wow !
Thank you Boris for your explanations. Always waiting for more videos of yours.
This is really great stuff. I will be returning to this several times I'm sure. Thanks!
Thanks again for your explanations. Although I think this module is far to complex to remember what slider does what if one doesn't use it on a daily basis, I love to watch your videos as you show so many really useful hints "on the fly". Personally I will stay with the local contrast module. With this one there is to much trial and error for me. Finally it always ends with frustration for me (same as with blend modes and the channel mixer - lol)
Thank you very much for putting this together Boris! I learn a lot from every single one of your videos!
Masterclass, thank you Boris
As always thoroughly enjoyed, many thnx
Hey great video as always. I wanted to ask you a bit more about your trick to pull the surface detail from exterior wall of that building. From the steps of the technique shown in the video, and the processing that occurs, it seem so to me that this is very similar to using unsharp mask to do local contrast enhancement (i.e. unsharp mask using a large blur radius). Other than the fact that using the diffusion module keeps everything in the scene referred workflow, do you see it as really the same technique? I did some experiments comparing the technique in the video to other ways that add local contrast, and the results looked very similar. So it's definitely "another tool for the toolbox", but I was curious about the differences conceptually, if any, with "unsharp masking using a large blur radius".
Brilliant. So clear and informative.
thanks a lot. wonderfull explanation of this powerful module.
Thank you Boris, another magical demonstration!!.too bad I'm not perfect enough in English to understand but I also like reading...;) (thank you Google for the approximate translations..lol) Bravo to you Boris. I'll keep my eyes open for the rest ;) Yvan
Great demonstration, thanks a lot!
Boris, I have used Diffuse and sharpen for a while now, and I love all the combination. But - I have still not been able to detect a difference in my images when I operate the xst order anisotropy sliders. They are used in all presets, typically the 1st and 3rd, but even when I slide along with those combinations I hardly see anything change, not in the image and not in the waveform diagram. I could easily see a change in your illustration with the concentric circles - but in my daily images ... no improvement to detect. So, how could I ever use those sliders with an expectation of improving this or that in one of my images? Have you experienced this anisotropy to shine with your non experimental images?
Yes, there are differences. The idea behind anisotropy is to shift the center of gravity of sharpening or diffusion. Shifted to the left, sharpening or diffusion tends to follow gradients and to the right, both follow edges.
This is not as important for diffusion as it is for sharpening. If you move the anisotropy to the right when sharpening, you avoid fringing at the edges, because the sharpening tends to run along the edges. You can see this best on the edges, which have very strong light differences. For example, if you have a portrait of someone wearing a darker/black shirt in a light/white background. If you then want to increase local contrast or sharpening, you can very quickly create a darker edge (fringing). Especially if you use 1st or 2dn order speed with a higher radius span. If you then move the anisotropy for corresponding order speeds to the right, the sharpening tends to follow the edges and the fringing disappears or is reduced.
With diffusion, you use it more to the right if you want to remove noise, for example, and don't want the edges to be diffused very much, so that they remain sharp.
You can only see the effects clearly when you zoom to 100%. At other zoom levels on the screen, the display quality is greatly reduced to reduce the processing time.
@@s7habo Thank you, Boris. This makes sense. I will check out and focus more on your explained combinations at 100 percent. If my vision fails me, I'll be back of course, like Arnold ;O)
@@Eigil_Skovgaard And increase the number of iterations. Then you will recognize the effect even more.
Have fun trying it out. Perhaps you will find one or more useful combinations. 😉
Not really connected with this module but in the lady with dog on path image, the bright, white object the distant man is holding I find a major distraction.
I'm not sure if it's a bug or there is some technical reason for it, but if I use a mask and then select a preset, the mask is lost. That causes a problem when trying different presets as I have to draw the mask for every new preset. I have found a workaround that is to create a new instance of (SAY) the exposure module (because it's early in the pixel pipe), not make any changes in exposure but create a mask in that module and then re-use the mask in the diffuse and sharpen module.
I really like the technique using subtract blend mode to recover highlight detail, I will try that as it's one I have never used.
The improvements in the flower, town hall and snow scenes are very impressive and transform the images.
As usual, I need to watch again in slow motion to catch all the sliders movements etc., but thank you again for sharing your knowledge and techniques.
I too am noticing that I cannot reuse a mask on a new instance. Is that what you are referring to?
@@rvrnnr987 No, not really, though that may well be true. It's when I changed the selection of the preset.
The part I struggle with consistently is when to use what module
This module has much promise