The ECU strategy model will be targeting load and torque. Just because the tune can deliver up to 26psi doesn't mean it will if the load and torque targets are being met with lower boost.
@@CarRambles I can't see Revo disabling the load and torque model and targeting boost directly. Its a poor way to go on modern cars and less consistent. I only know of 1 tuner who tries to do that on Fiestas and basically they FFFF all the load and torque target tables so they dont intervene and rely on wastegate duty cycle alone as well as dumbing down knock control and other safety factors.
@@turbocharged9906 For now all i know is that on the dyno the revo software was asking for 1.8 bar and it was receiving 1.6... This was before everything thats happened since them
I read this from you (Boosted Burger) elsewhere before and i think my maxdout 1R is doing the same. I spent hours and xxxx€ find the error, but some day in dec. boost was here again. 1,5bar, mostly holding 1,4bar very long. so i thought ok, no leaks. the other day, 1,2, barely 1,3 for seconds in 4th gear after pushing long. cleaned the dv+, looks good. today crazyness: 100mls with boost, then tried a few odb apps and dashs with running motor in parking area. started driving again to test the dashboards and boost was maximum at 1,2bar max in 4th gear. no chance to get 1,5. car is running ok, but i feel more kick, when the turbo is in "1,5 mode" and it pulls much more in 6th gear. we tested a lot, but not yet the map maf sensors. is there a chance to test them without replacing them? sometimes running and sometimes not is not good for testing. :-( This sucks over a year now. how can the max boost change in the same hour with not stopping the motor?
I’m going collins CP5 this week and currently have a turbosmart em VR2 plumbback. Asked them if it’ll be ok and they have recommended going back to the stock diverter. Even above a GFB I asked, they said yes.
I haven't noticed a difference but I've heard it does increase the amount of air intake due to the revos stock position... It looks 100% better though aha
Must be an annoying problem mate. I was in the exact same boat with my V1 hybrid, seemed to run lower pressures than others out there. At the end of the day, if the turbo is OK and the power is strong and reliable then that should be all that matters. Things I'd check which you may or may not have covered: WG Actuator preload, throttle body, clean the MAF sensor, clean the MAP sensor, change out the boost gauge vacuum line, check seal on boost gauge..Could also be something to do with temps. It's a nightmare to figure out. You'll definitely find the GFB more beneficial, the mechanics are really unique. I found that when I took off my airtec boost pipes and put the stock ones back on and downsized the intercooler, boost built up much quicker. Because the EU FiST ECU's run off the MAF, blow off valves or "50/50 valves" are really detrimental to the performance of these cars, it throws off the readings. The american ST's run off the MAP sensor so there's a bit more leeway with how much air it can vent to atmosphere. If you really want to get to the bottom of your problem, I'd take your car up to somewhere like AET motorsport and get them to inspect, they're really good.
@@nathansemmens1112 I wouldn't say it would affect your power but initial boost will build slower after the blow off valve does it cycle.. The turbo needs to work harder to build up boost again thus causing a bit more boost lag than if you had a full recirc valve. It won't damage your turbo but the over fuelling caused by the MAF sensor may cause premature engine wear. Stick with the system the manufacturer built the car around, that way you can't go wrong.
Can you set preload on the turbosmart? I don't know if we had this chat on Facebook or not. Preload could of been allowing the turbosmart to stay open a bit and not closing fast enough when you floow it.
Idk how it is overseas but here in the US our cars have whats called "torque targeting". From my understanding the ecu commands a certain amount of power and it will use less or more boost needed to achieve that "target" up to a certain PSI.
Torque being limited? The st's are known for that. If you are hitting them power figures and the car doesn't feel bad i wouldn't focus 2 hard on those boost readings. Maybe get it on a dyno? With the bigger intercooler and the ecu not perfectly set for that can cause problems with boost build up. In my opinion a downside of not havin a custom map.
@@CarRambles yeah, I’m going to take it somewhere and have them check it. People were saying on the forums make sure you have the flat part faced a certain way or something?
The ECU strategy model will be targeting load and torque. Just because the tune can deliver up to 26psi doesn't mean it will if the load and torque targets are being met with lower boost.
Just wanna hear it from the horses mouth...
@@CarRambles I can't see Revo disabling the load and torque model and targeting boost directly. Its a poor way to go on modern cars and less consistent. I only know of 1 tuner who tries to do that on Fiestas and basically they FFFF all the load and torque target tables so they dont intervene and rely on wastegate duty cycle alone as well as dumbing down knock control and other safety factors.
@@turbocharged9906 For now all i know is that on the dyno the revo software was asking for 1.8 bar and it was receiving 1.6...
This was before everything thats happened since them
I read this from you (Boosted Burger) elsewhere before and i think my maxdout 1R is doing the same. I spent hours and xxxx€ find the error, but some day in dec. boost was here again. 1,5bar, mostly holding 1,4bar very long. so i thought ok, no leaks. the other day, 1,2, barely 1,3 for seconds in 4th gear after pushing long. cleaned the dv+, looks good. today crazyness: 100mls with boost, then tried a few odb apps and dashs with running motor in parking area. started driving again to test the dashboards and boost was maximum at 1,2bar max in 4th gear. no chance to get 1,5. car is running ok, but i feel more kick, when the turbo is in "1,5 mode" and it pulls much more in 6th gear. we tested a lot, but not yet the map maf sensors. is there a chance to test them without replacing them? sometimes running and sometimes not is not good for testing. :-( This sucks over a year now. how can the max boost change in the same hour with not stopping the motor?
@@rolliseventeen different mappers use different systems. It's a shame as it's all about that boost and torque feel. That's half the fun aha
8:36 "ok gunna finish the video here"
Carrys on for nearly another 3 minutes 🤣🤣🤣
I mean..... I do ramble on... I have so much to say aha
@@CarRambles just made me chuckle not a bad thing least it took video over ten mins 🤙🏻
I’m looking at getting a turbo smart dual port and I’m stage 1 revo. Do you think I’ll loose any boost or is it just because you have the rt330?
I’m going collins CP5 this week and currently have a turbosmart em VR2 plumbback. Asked them if it’ll be ok and they have recommended going back to the stock diverter. Even above a GFB I asked, they said yes.
That's crazy, I mean the oem either holds the boost or it fails so why not run an OEM until it does 🤷🏼♂️
CP like to contradict themselves as they told me to upgrade to GFB...
I'm so confused lol
I have cp2 map and hardware what's suggested to be best with that then?
Great video, totally off topic but is there a difference between the itg and your revo intake? Revo intake looks great! Thinking about getting one.
I haven't noticed a difference but I've heard it does increase the amount of air intake due to the revos stock position...
It looks 100% better though aha
Oh and obviously going the rt330 I wanted the full Revo setup :)
Thanks appreciate the reply. Think I'll just go for it! Looking forward to your next video!
@@CF-hq3tr try to get some money back for the itg, makes the cost of the Revo intake easier to take aha
GFB do a vent to atmosphere now if you didn't know. Since you like the sound.
Na heard that has tons of problems, would rather go back to the turbosmart if I was to change aha
True, DVA+ is OK on the Mk8 apparently, throws EML lights regularly on Mk7.
@@CarRambles for what its worth i have the regular GFB dv+ on my car for over 100k miles. Never any issues when tuned, untuned, big turbo. Etc
Must be an annoying problem mate. I was in the exact same boat with my V1 hybrid, seemed to run lower pressures than others out there. At the end of the day, if the turbo is OK and the power is strong and reliable then that should be all that matters. Things I'd check which you may or may not have covered: WG Actuator preload, throttle body, clean the MAF sensor, clean the MAP sensor, change out the boost gauge vacuum line, check seal on boost gauge..Could also be something to do with temps. It's a nightmare to figure out. You'll definitely find the GFB more beneficial, the mechanics are really unique. I found that when I took off my airtec boost pipes and put the stock ones back on and downsized the intercooler, boost built up much quicker. Because the EU FiST ECU's run off the MAF, blow off valves or "50/50 valves" are really detrimental to the performance of these cars, it throws off the readings. The american ST's run off the MAP sensor so there's a bit more leeway with how much air it can vent to atmosphere. If you really want to get to the bottom of your problem, I'd take your car up to somewhere like AET motorsport and get them to inspect, they're really good.
You may also want to check the cam tappet, could be worn which is known to cause boost/fuelling issues.
I have a turbo smart 50/50 bov on mine is it worth keeping it on or do they just cause problems?
@@nathansemmens1112 Up to you, it's not better for performance though. Sounds better but will take away from the performance.
Lewisrowezer ah ok is it a big downfall in power and does it cause damage to the turbo ?
@@nathansemmens1112 I wouldn't say it would affect your power but initial boost will build slower after the blow off valve does it cycle.. The turbo needs to work harder to build up boost again thus causing a bit more boost lag than if you had a full recirc valve. It won't damage your turbo but the over fuelling caused by the MAF sensor may cause premature engine wear. Stick with the system the manufacturer built the car around, that way you can't go wrong.
Understand i am correct that with the Turbosmart DV you had too much boost? My english is not the best
Can you set preload on the turbosmart? I don't know if we had this chat on Facebook or not. Preload could of been allowing the turbosmart to stay open a bit and not closing fast enough when you floow it.
Yes you can
Idk how it is overseas but here in the US our cars have whats called "torque targeting". From my understanding the ecu commands a certain amount of power and it will use less or more boost needed to achieve that "target" up to a certain PSI.
I've heard this as well, I do wonder if Revo use that of not 🤷🏼♂️
Torque being limited? The st's are known for that. If you are hitting them power figures and the car doesn't feel bad i wouldn't focus 2 hard on those boost readings. Maybe get it on a dyno? With the bigger intercooler and the ecu not perfectly set for that can cause problems with boost build up. In my opinion a downside of not havin a custom map.
Another good 1 buddy service the turbosmart and change the setting on it try that ??🤷🏻♂️
Turbosmart is perfectly fine. No problems or leaks :)
Car Rambles so why aren’t u getting 26 psi it’s very odd 😳
@@wraystyle7116 exactly
Oh look a dandelion
Weow
I lost some boost installing this thing. 17psi is the max it’ll go to 😞
Sounds like you installed it wrong to me
@@CarRambles yeah, I’m going to take it somewhere and have them check it. People were saying on the forums make sure you have the flat part faced a certain way or something?
I would ensure you have it tightened about half way so your not just letting it vent the whole time
so sad all the goodies have to come off in order to perform
But more goodies have gone on in its place ;) the oem dv was simply to test if the turbosmart was leaking which it wasn't :)