Thank you so much for documenting this! I have a Hobart N50 that I'm planning to do a restore on soon. This will help me learn about the internal parts and assembly before I get to work on the restore. Can't wait to see the further parts to this series
Awesome! I have reassembled the gear box dry to show details in the next video, hopefully i can get that out in the next day or so. I could not see well enough during disassembly how it actually worked with all the grease in the way.
Thank you so much for this highly detailed video! I was stuck with the dismantle of the planetary for my 1919 Model H and although they are a bit different, it turns out the gear fastening system is the same - I was stuck at that step because the planetary on my machine is cracked and was bronze welded and during the repair, the top bushing had been partly partly bronze soldered to the body (on the model H it's all cast iron), in the wrong position for that locating/thrust screw to have any effect! Once I saw you remove the bushing so easily after removing the screw and saw that pin (just like the one for rotor to the pinion gear), I knew right away what the problem was, a good whack on the pin from underneath it was off :-) Of course doing so I saw the full extent of the damage on that planetary and I serioulsy doubt I'll be able to fix it, it would require precision nickel welding an remachining... And you know how rare they are, been looking for a spare since last winter! BTW, that 'slip ring' at 13:39 or so is actually the starter coil contactor. When the motor reaches its operating speed, the counterweights on the rotor pull the ring in, which then disconnects the starter coil.
Wow, I didnt realize yours would be so similiar to this one, but I guess that worked out well! Thanks for clarifying that part I thought was a slip ring, is there a seperate starter coil internally in the motor coil? It makes sense now lol, when I was looking it over, I was clueless how it worked! Have you checked around to machine shops to see if you can get that welded and machined?
Nice video. I rebuilt my N50 a while back and they are amazing machines. Perhaps you've realized by now that the little spring-loaded device on the nose is another oiler with packing under it. I didn't want to risk damaging mine by prying it out, so I put a thin film of grease on it before I painted the casting (and old mechanic's trick). The paint doesn't stick to the grease, so it just wipes off. My N50 is a couple generations away from your Model G (build 4749, made in 1961), so I guess you could say your Model G is its grandfather. My cord goes in the base, but I don't have a fuse., and I still have the pin in the side of hub, but I don't have the hole in the front of the base. Did you know that the only reason they are there is to support the ice cream maker? Well, I'm off to watch part 2. Thanks.
Honestly I didnt know anything about these, thanks for the info! This was not my machine, it belongs to a client, I believe she has all the attachments as well!
I have 2 wooden bucket ice cream makers. I had to put my hobart mixer on top of two fat books as the ice cream maker was a bit taller than the mixer. I used 'driveway ice melter salt' and ice and it whipped up my ice cream in about 15 minutes, to a mashed potato consistency. You have to freeze it of course to get it nice and hard.
Hi Michael, thanks! I am using Lucas Oil red and tacky, but I am sure any high quality lithium based grease will work in this machine. If the gaskets and gasket surfaces are good, it should never leak.
Exceptionally helpful video, thanks. This has inspired me to strip down my N50 and am hoping it will guide me with the reassembly! What grease do you use to repack the gearbox, please? Is it food grade (as used in more recent KA mixers)? Any idea what volume of grease needed?
I did not use food safe grease, I used a high quality lithium based grease since, in my opinion, holds up much better than the KA grease, and will not eventually leak out like the KA grease. You could use the KA food safe grease as well, it is completely personal preference, or any high quality grease that will not break down or practiaclly liquify when it gets warm. I dont recall the exact volume, but if I were to guess, it was about double what a standard kitchenaid takes.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks, I intend to use Shell Gadus grease for the gearbox interior and food grade Molyslip Arvina FM2 for the planetary. (Am in UK so different names to US/Canada). Not sure I fully trust the drip ring. The blogs on the Fresh Loaf site suggest 21 fl Oz (= =/- 0.6 lt) capacity in the box.
That sounds like a good plan! The drip ring does work well, although it seems with the KA branded grease, it is very much necessary. 21 oz, I can believe that, it was a lot of grease in the transmission as I recall. Good luck!
Hey hopefully you get this. I'm in assembly mode if a N50 at the moment. Do you happen to recall, is the tumbler yoke stop supposed to move back and forth freely? I ask because if I flip the washer to one side it moves back and forth, if I flip the washer and bolt it down on the other side it sets the yoke stop in place and you can't move it at all. Not sure if it's suppose to move on its own back and forth or if it should stay in place once screwed down.
A mechanical challenge - the planetary assembly will not separate from the shaft, despite removing the pin. I thought I could get around this by removing the bevel cog from inside (the second last cog to come out), but the pin through that one is completely stuck. Compared to your gentle tap (video 35.11), no end of drift punches and a hand held sledge hammer can dislodge this. Anyone else had this experience and can provide a solution, pls?
Sometimes the planetary really sticks on them, even the regular KA's. Sometimes I have to pry from both sides at once very carefully. You can always try heating up the planetary with a heat gun, heat does wonders sometimes.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 After watching your videos I decided to pick up the red 3in1 for my mixer restore. I ended up using the oil to lube couple of fans also. Within a 60 days both fans were dry. After reading around I picked up the blue 3in1, sae20 without detergent. Everything is good again. I'm not saying you're wrong but it seems like the red 3in1 is the wrong choice when rebuilding these mixers. Much love and respect!
@@Joshua-zi6bqI don't doubt you, I honestly didn't know there was a blue one until you mentioned it :) Thanks for the tip!! I will certainly check it out, Im all for anything better
I can't believe I found a video of someone refurbishing a Model G. I tried doing this back in 2016 and tough I was somewhat successfully I had extra parts when i put it back together. However I would like to ask you one thing. The lever you point to at this point of the video ua-cam.com/video/p4jkmt7pOQA/v-deo.html mine broke.. you mention that this is pretty standard. Do you know where I would be able to get another?
www.hobartcorp.com/products/food-prep/mixers/n50-5-quart-mixer. Bonjour , avec Hobart on en découvre tous les jours, je ne pensai pas que le N50 Hobart ( toujours vendu dans le monde) avait été étiqueté KITCHENAID, et sans doute en premier avant d'être HOBART. 45 ans chez Hobart Pesage et cuisine en France, je me suis toujours interessé à ce que "ma" compagnie fabriquait. Une fois j'ai trouvé un moteur BLACK et DECKER, dans une machine à Chantilly HOBART ! Bravo pour votre vidéo. Traduction en ligne = Hello, with Hobart we discover it every day, I did not think that the N50 Hobart (still sold in the world) had been labeled KITCHENAID, and probably first before being HOBART. 45 years at Hobart Weighing and Cooking in France, I have always been interested in what "my" company was making. Once I found a BLACK and DECKER engine, in a HOBART Chantilly machine! Well done for your video.
That looks just like my N50 from a design perspective
Thank you so much for documenting this! I have a Hobart N50 that I'm planning to do a restore on soon. This will help me learn about the internal parts and assembly before I get to work on the restore. Can't wait to see the further parts to this series
Awesome! I have reassembled the gear box dry to show details in the next video, hopefully i can get that out in the next day or so. I could not see well enough during disassembly how it actually worked with all the grease in the way.
You can buy the parts manual, where they show an exploded view of all the parts and how they fit together.
Thank you so much for this highly detailed video!
I was stuck with the dismantle of the planetary for my 1919 Model H and although they are a bit different, it turns out the gear fastening system is the same - I was stuck at that step because the planetary on my machine is cracked and was bronze welded and during the repair, the top bushing had been partly partly bronze soldered to the body (on the model H it's all cast iron), in the wrong position for that locating/thrust screw to have any effect! Once I saw you remove the bushing so easily after removing the screw and saw that pin (just like the one for rotor to the pinion gear), I knew right away what the problem was, a good whack on the pin from underneath it was off :-)
Of course doing so I saw the full extent of the damage on that planetary and I serioulsy doubt I'll be able to fix it, it would require precision nickel welding an remachining... And you know how rare they are, been looking for a spare since last winter!
BTW, that 'slip ring' at 13:39 or so is actually the starter coil contactor. When the motor reaches its operating speed, the counterweights on the rotor pull the ring in, which then disconnects the starter coil.
Wow, I didnt realize yours would be so similiar to this one, but I guess that worked out well! Thanks for clarifying that part I thought was a slip ring, is there a seperate starter coil internally in the motor coil? It makes sense now lol, when I was looking it over, I was clueless how it worked! Have you checked around to machine shops to see if you can get that welded and machined?
Rick, I am so excited you are working on this, I have two of these and one works though not very well. Happy new years !
Hey Brett! Thanks, happy new year to you as well :)
I was excited to finally start it too, been looking forward to it for a long time.
WOW, 2 ?! Then again, I'm not that surprised ;-) Happy New Year Brett!!!
I wish live close to you .. i have a hobart and i need to paint also
What a beast!!!
No doubt!!
Yes d
Thanks for the video! what do you do to polish the badge?
Hey bud! I will probably just use metal or brass polish on it, see how it turns out. Should work pretty good!
Nice video. I rebuilt my N50 a while back and they are amazing machines. Perhaps you've realized by now that the little spring-loaded device on the nose is another oiler with packing under it. I didn't want to risk damaging mine by prying it out, so I put a thin film of grease on it before I painted the casting (and old mechanic's trick). The paint doesn't stick to the grease, so it just wipes off. My N50 is a couple generations away from your Model G (build 4749, made in 1961), so I guess you could say your Model G is its grandfather. My cord goes in the base, but I don't have a fuse., and I still have the pin in the side of hub, but I don't have the hole in the front of the base. Did you know that the only reason they are there is to support the ice cream maker?
Well, I'm off to watch part 2. Thanks.
Honestly I didnt know anything about these, thanks for the info! This was not my machine, it belongs to a client, I believe she has all the attachments as well!
I have 2 wooden bucket ice cream makers. I had to put my hobart mixer on top of two fat books as the ice cream maker was a bit taller than the mixer. I used 'driveway ice melter salt' and ice and it whipped up my ice cream in about 15 minutes, to a mashed potato consistency. You have to freeze it of course to get it nice and hard.
Where to get brushes for Hobart A9 coffee mill
Great video. What brand of red grease are you using? Thanks in advance.
Hi Michael, thanks! I am using Lucas Oil red and tacky, but I am sure any high quality lithium based grease will work in this machine. If the gaskets and gasket surfaces are good, it should never leak.
Exceptionally helpful video, thanks. This has inspired me to strip down my N50 and am hoping it will guide me with the reassembly! What grease do you use to repack the gearbox, please? Is it food grade (as used in more recent KA mixers)? Any idea what volume of grease needed?
I did not use food safe grease, I used a high quality lithium based grease since, in my opinion, holds up much better than the KA grease, and will not eventually leak out like the KA grease. You could use the KA food safe grease as well, it is completely personal preference, or any high quality grease that will not break down or practiaclly liquify when it gets warm. I dont recall the exact volume, but if I were to guess, it was about double what a standard kitchenaid takes.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks, I intend to use Shell Gadus grease for the gearbox interior and food grade Molyslip Arvina FM2 for the planetary. (Am in UK so different names to US/Canada). Not sure I fully trust the drip ring. The blogs on the Fresh Loaf site suggest 21 fl Oz (= =/- 0.6 lt) capacity in the box.
That sounds like a good plan! The drip ring does work well, although it seems with the KA branded grease, it is very much necessary. 21 oz, I can believe that, it was a lot of grease in the transmission as I recall. Good luck!
Hey hopefully you get this. I'm in assembly mode if a N50 at the moment. Do you happen to recall, is the tumbler yoke stop supposed to move back and forth freely? I ask because if I flip the washer to one side it moves back and forth, if I flip the washer and bolt it down on the other side it sets the yoke stop in place and you can't move it at all. Not sure if it's suppose to move on its own back and forth or if it should stay in place once screwed down.
It’s supposed to move. There’s an adjustment screw for the tumbler/yoke under the head of the mixer.
at 33:50 -- you appear to be filing something but that is out of the picture frame. what were you doing that freed up that assembly?
A mechanical challenge - the planetary assembly will not separate from the shaft, despite removing the pin. I thought I could get around this by removing the bevel cog from inside (the second last cog to come out), but the pin through that one is completely stuck. Compared to your gentle tap (video 35.11), no end of drift punches and a hand held sledge hammer can dislodge this. Anyone else had this experience and can provide a solution, pls?
Sometimes the planetary really sticks on them, even the regular KA's. Sometimes I have to pry from both sides at once very carefully. You can always try heating up the planetary with a heat gun, heat does wonders sometimes.
Is there a reason you use the red can 3 in 1 oil over the blue can 3 in 1 oil?
It is what I have always used, always have some on hand
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 After watching your videos I decided to pick up the red 3in1 for my mixer restore. I ended up using the oil to lube couple of fans also. Within a 60 days both fans were dry. After reading around I picked up the blue 3in1, sae20 without detergent.
Everything is good again. I'm not saying you're wrong but it seems like the red 3in1 is the wrong choice when rebuilding these mixers. Much love and respect!
@@Joshua-zi6bqI don't doubt you, I honestly didn't know there was a blue one until you mentioned it :) Thanks for the tip!! I will certainly check it out, Im all for anything better
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 I think I've mostly seen a black can of 3 in 1, perhaps I'm mistaken.
I can't believe I found a video of someone refurbishing a Model G. I tried doing this back in 2016 and tough I was somewhat successfully I had extra parts when i put it back together. However I would like to ask you one thing. The lever you point to at this point of the video ua-cam.com/video/p4jkmt7pOQA/v-deo.html mine broke.. you mention that this is pretty standard. Do you know where I would be able to get another?
www.hobartcorp.com/products/food-prep/mixers/n50-5-quart-mixer.
Bonjour , avec Hobart on en découvre tous les jours, je ne pensai pas que le N50 Hobart ( toujours vendu dans le monde) avait été étiqueté KITCHENAID, et sans doute en premier avant d'être HOBART.
45 ans chez Hobart Pesage et cuisine en France, je me suis toujours interessé à ce que "ma" compagnie fabriquait.
Une fois j'ai trouvé un moteur BLACK et DECKER, dans une machine à Chantilly HOBART !
Bravo pour votre vidéo.
Traduction en ligne =
Hello, with Hobart we discover it every day, I did not think that the N50 Hobart (still sold in the world) had been labeled KITCHENAID, and probably first before being HOBART.
45 years at Hobart Weighing and Cooking in France, I have always been interested in what "my" company was making.
Once I found a BLACK and DECKER engine, in a HOBART Chantilly machine!
Well done for your video.