Really shows the value of having a video log to look back over (where did I put the thingamies).... Frustrating wrong gasket, but your solution (re-order and do some paint) is by far the best way to go IMO. Good going, cheers, Andy.
Thanks for posting, enjoying the series. Just a point that I might have missed, you did time the cams to the crank position. I'd hate to hear the sound of crunching valves
Well done for working your way through it. I was worried when you fitted the bearing caps without the locating dowels, then relieved when you found them and put them in. The mismatched cam cover gasket solves the mystery of the head gasket, they obviously sold you the wrong gasket set. It looks like you have plain steel washers under the dome nuts on the end head studs. Is that what they specify? I would have expected to see copper washers there, because they have to seal the oil feed to the cams, which comes up around the studs.
@@NatsNackersYard I think you'll find that, although the oil feed is only at the base of one stud on each side, there are galleries connecting front to rear, so by the time it reaches the head, it's coming up all four to feed both cams, so you will need to seal all four outer nuts. It's no big deal because you can easily change the washers if it leaks after start up.
@@NatsNackersYard I have a link to a reproduced manual describing the steps for timing the engine but UA-cam keeps deleting the link mate how can I send it to you? Unless you done more off camera you definitely didn't take the steps it shows...
some of the steps - h. Set the dial gauge on the No. 1 piston head center as shown to find the No. 1 piston top dead center and check whether the "1" mark on the timing plate and stationary pointer are aligned or not. If not, loosen the pointer securing screw and adjust. d. Install the front cam chain guide being certain that it is in its holder down below. e. Rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until the crankcase pointer and "T" mark on the timing plate are aligned. f. With the cylinders No. 1 and 4 at the top dead center, slip the cam chain over the sprocket.
Would anyone be able to tell me how to go about changing my engine number with the dvla as the engine was on the bike when it got it but the last owner didn’t change it over
Really shows the value of having a video log to look back over (where did I put the thingamies).... Frustrating wrong gasket, but your solution (re-order and do some paint) is by far the best way to go IMO. Good going, cheers, Andy.
Thanks mate.
That's looking really neat. Really looking forward to hearing this one when ready
Good God, me too!
Thanks for posting, enjoying the series. Just a point that I might have missed, you did time the cams to the crank position. I'd hate to hear the sound of crunching valves
Yes mate. All done at tdc as per the book.
Sounds a lot better 👍👍👍
Thanks for pointing it out mate. It was very weird!
@@NatsNackersYard Sometimes those editing gremlins really kick you in the nuts...
Your doing well Nat ,you didnt expect it to be straight forward did you 🤔👍
I would be suspicious if it did!
Well done for working your way through it. I was worried when you fitted the bearing caps without the locating dowels, then relieved when you found them and put them in.
The mismatched cam cover gasket solves the mystery of the head gasket, they obviously sold you the wrong gasket set.
It looks like you have plain steel washers under the dome nuts on the end head studs. Is that what they specify? I would have expected to see copper washers there, because they have to seal the oil feed to the cams, which comes up around the studs.
There are copper washer above one pair which is the only one above oil feeds. On the high side.
@@NatsNackersYard I think you'll find that, although the oil feed is only at the base of one stud on each side, there are galleries connecting front to rear, so by the time it reaches the head, it's coming up all four to feed both cams, so you will need to seal all four outer nuts. It's no big deal because you can easily change the washers if it leaks after start up.
The manual only says to put them on the one side but it's an easy swap later if needed
@@NatsNackersYard 👍
nice work Nat, loving the rebuild, another brand of lager lol, whatevers on special ? (dont blame you)
I wouldn't want to be accused of favouritism!
🏍👍👍
😍
Just trying to help you solve the no starting mate, you made no reference to the crankshaft in this video? Assume you had it aligned?
Not sure what you mean but it seemed aligned to me.
@@NatsNackersYard I have a link to a reproduced manual describing the steps for timing the engine but UA-cam keeps deleting the link mate how can I send it to you? Unless you done more off camera you definitely didn't take the steps it shows...
some of the steps -
h. Set the dial gauge on the No. 1 piston head center as shown to find the No. 1 piston top dead center and check whether the "1" mark on the timing plate and stationary pointer are aligned or not. If not, loosen the pointer securing screw and adjust.
d. Install the front cam chain guide being certain that it is in its holder down below.
e. Rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until the crankcase pointer and "T" mark on the timing plate are aligned.
f. With the cylinders No. 1 and 4 at the top dead center, slip the cam chain over the sprocket.
FIRST!
I am not sure it counts on a second upload!
Would anyone be able to tell me how to go about changing my engine number with the dvla as the engine was on the bike when it got it but the last owner didn’t change it over
Just fill in the v5 and send it off mate. Its free!