Hey , that’s so easy a caveman could do it 😂 Thanks Brent for the time & effort! I fixed my old one & a new one that came like that ! No need to return it to Home Depot
@@garysampson5258 Took way too long for those of us who have a little bit of knowledge about tools and batteries and how to disassemle / reassemble things. I thought him 'looking' for the correct bit was somewhat disingenuous since he had clearly claimed he already had worked on restoring that battery. But, I endured to the end .. and watched the entire video. Was a learning experience when tinkering 'inside' the open battery.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries batery.repair and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!
I had a Ryobi 18 V battery that sat in my garage for over 18 months that would not take a charge. The "Fix" was fast...easy & safe. I used my 12VDC trickle charger ..held the "+" & the "- " cables to the battery posts for slightly over 2 minutes. I then put the battery into the Ryobi battery charger. The charger "Testing" cycle ran a little longer than normal then it started the charging cycle ! I did not do any disassembly ...I didn't drill any holes !
wow thanks left a ryobi battery in the car on my ryobi buffer went to use it dead plugged it in, went back to check it next morning nothing thought crap saw this tried it now its charging thanks so much plus so much fun when you put the possitive to neg by mistake damn eye sight
I previously repaired my ryobi batteries without taking the batteries apart and just using the contacts on the batteries and a battery charger set on 2 amp. Theyve been working fine for over a year now.
I too, used my automotive battery charger, @2 amp setting. One minute only needed to get the Ryobi 18v and Black& Decker 24v 'primed.' Full enough to get each respective charger to launch!
I left the battery in charge and switch off the mains by mistake. Battery voltage was showing zero without opening the battery. After opening, internal terminals showed 4.5V. Made a connection as shown in video, internal voltage went up to 14.7 in couple of minutes. Put it back together and tried the charger. Its worked like magic. Thanks a lot for the assembly video.
Thank you for making this step by step video!!! I had two of theses batteries in my battery recycle collection waiting to be dropped off and two replacement batteries in my shopping cart. I watched your video and followed your instructions and both batteries are now fully functional!! This saved me and many other folks a lot of money! Thank you!!!
I had 3 batteries that would not charge at all, considered replacing them or getting a whole new set. This video saved me alot of $$, all three are now charging and working. Thank you.
You are THE MAN!! I bought a Ryobi drill-driver a couple of years ago which came with two batteries - one was DOA. I got busy and forgot about it until this video somehow came across my feed. I followed the directions and the battery is FIXED!! Thank you!
It worked. Battery showed .2v. Took it apart, checked the battery itself, it showed 3.6v. Put the leads on for about 15 seconds. Battery was now at 12.3v. Put back together. It charged and I’m using now. Thank you so much. Saved me a few bucks.
I have just put about 12 Ryobi batteries in the recycling bin. I wish I had seen this before I did. A question: Is it essential to open the case to get at the terminals, which I assume bypasses the controller, or can you just connect + to + and - to - using the terminals on the posts without dismantling the battery pack? Either way, thanks for the video. I'll try it when the current crop of very expensive batteries plays up.
You have to charge each individual cell separately. These battery packs charge all the cells in series which quickly leads to unbalanced charging. The computer board is only for safety.. it shuts off charging when any single cell reaches max voltage..
This video process didn't work for me. Did you ever figure it out how you charge your Ryobi batteries? Do I need to charge reach individual cell separately?
I honestly didn't think this would work and I was highly skeptical, but what the hell I got out the battery tester came out at 4.7 volts hooked up my charger and set it up 3 minutes later it tested at 7.5 volts. I disconnected it and plugged it into the ryobi charger and sure as shit it started flashing green! 😎 after 6 months of it flashing defective and not charging it took a 3 minute alternative to fix it. Great job 👏 I'm very happy I found your video!
Thanks for this! I checked one of my batteries that wouldn't charge. It measured 0.6 mV! After 15 sec of charge it went to 7.1 V. Put it back together and charged successfully!
Did it today on a 5 year old battery that I haven't been able to charge for over 2 years. Works like magic! What seems to be one possible cause of the Red Light of Death is when your batteries are exposed to cold temps for extended periods of time. Now, 6 of 6 batteries still running strong. Thank you so much!
I tried other methods from other videos, nothing. Your instructions were not only the easiest, but the most effective. Thanks! This worked in less than a minute.
Ironically, I made a youtube video praising Ryobi and then one of my batteries went defective. Thankfully, my bummer was short lived. This method worked quite well. I was able to unscrew 4 of the 5 screws with a normal torx bit. I drilled out the 5th and replaced it with a standard Phillips. Looks janky but I'm back in business!
Even if it is not connected to the drill, the Ryobi battery discharges it self with severe voltage drop that makes it impossible to recharge. I open the case as you have done and then use a car charger with 12v to jump the voltage of Ryobi battery to 5-6 volt, by connecting it to the Ryobi battery internal terminals for few seconds only. Make sure the polarity is correct. Count to 7-10 and then disconnect. After that the Ryobi battery can be charged on its own charger.
Thanks - I was wondering why not use 12volt battery charger to do this. I guess the actual voltage from the 12v charger is more like 14v (or slightly more) so your 7-10 count is probably good advice.
I set my vehicle 12v battery charging unit to 2A, attached - & +, left it o n e minute. The 'prime' of the cells then launched the Ryobi 18v and the B&D 24v. Work perfectly.
Careful when using a ryobi fan. I discharge a battery below the min voltage by forgetting I had it on. Did your trick and revived the battery. Thankyou
Worked perfectly June 19, 2022. Total of about 30 seconds of connection necessary to get it past threshold... Seemed to want to be above 15v to catch a charge from a charger but I tested only a few times during process, once at 7v, once at 12v, no dice, third time at about 15.5v it caught and charged. Donor battery was at around 19v. Lesson learned with cheap stuff: take batteries out when not used.
I've used this method to jump start 3 Ryobi batteries that I had given up for dead. They're not cheap, so this has saved me quite a bit. The only investment was about $10 or so for the alligator clips (and the T10 bit to disassemble the case). Thanks!
I have found that if you just put the battery in its charger, plug in & out to the electrical socket quickly, say 8 or 10 times, the battery will charge normally after that. Worked for me several times with several different amperage batteries.
Easier fix. Battery showed no voltage, I made two jumper wires one for positive and one for negative and put into top of battery were it’s marked positive and negative. I then attached the two wires to my trickle charger and charged for one minute and then disconnect wires and trickle charger .ohmmeter shows10.2 volts. Put in my ryobi charger and now it’s charging. Easy peasey.
I couldn't fix my battery and gave my Ryobi drill away. Mine wasn't the one series. There's a logic board above the cells as you probably saw. That's what's bad on mine. My model drill was discontinued, so I bought a DeWalt.
Hi Brent thanks for your re-do it's very helpful.Sorry if I was a bit terse in my first comment but I have limited myself to half an hour a day on UA-cam. It was getting out of hand with me especially under COVID lock down.I needed to start actually doing things rather than watching others doing things.Thanks again and Happy New years.
Just a safety tip here, it’s a bad practice to hold uninsulated alligator clips with both hands to complete a circuit. It appears his clamp had an insulated tip but if you aren’t careful your body can become part of the circuit up one arm though your chest (and heart) and down the other arm. Use insulated alligator clips or some insulated gloves. Or just use one arm at time.
@@ndandthecave456 It’s a bad practice because if you get used to doing it on low voltages then you will do it when working on higher voltages that can kill you. Then it’s not so funny anymore, is it?
I think it worked. I've now a second light flashing, before only the first would be steady on the battery indicator. The charger is flashing 'charging'. I had 12V and it was too low too charge. The terminals were showing about 3v. I left the battery in the drill with minimum charge. Now I take the batteries out when put away.
I bought a Ryobi set about I think maybe 8 years ago and they I don't know I think it was the first one it first came out with the Ryobi tech 4 battery well I'm long since lost all my tools but I still have the camera out of the set with that battery that's in it and I'm throwing it in the closet and my tool shed it's been with me throughout the years I've used it here and there throwing it back in there and every single time I take it out and I charge it up it works perfect and I put it through abuse the first couple years when I had it but that battery is still going strong I've never seen a battery lasts this long one of the times I fully charged it used it one time put it away 2 years later I found it in a drawer out my shed and I turned it on and it still had power in the battery I was freaking amazed I kind of want to take the battery apart to see what the hell is inside of it but I do not want to break it
Worked like a charm. I had gone on vacation and forgot one of these batteries in the charger for two weeks. Using the good battery and following your video, it only took 5 seconds of charging to revive the 'dead' battery. Caution: the positive wire gets hot! use needle nose pliers or some similar thing! Thank you. I was about to order a $40 battery.
Brilliant video. Worked perfectly for me. First time. Don't watch the idiots that drill holes in the casing! Even if you just buy one T10 screwdriver specially for the job it's worth it doing it this way.
This video and the many just like it, neglect to show how to measure each cell to see what level they are at and determine if one is defective. Also you can have a pack that measures > 14 volts and still won't charge properly due to other issues.
Were the Torx Screws always the security / anti-tamper style that take the special 'hollow-point' screwdriver? Two of my Batts were about 2v. The smaller one: My motorcycle trickle chargers come with mini jumper cables. With the bike running, (14V) I shocked it enough externally to start charging. My larger Batt, no go externally. I'll open it up and try it. It's actually the battery that I wanted to repair. I
Thank you very much go on after it got two of those little ones I’ve always said we’re garbage didn’t seem to do much of anything drive for screws with it and it’s done and then you have to charge it and it’s not too long after you buy it but it won’t take a charge that makes perfect sense thank you
The battery controller on newer One+ batteries drops the terminal voltage down to about 7.5v after about one minute of non-use. This may have been done to reduce the discharge leakage when left attached to tool. It pops back up to 19v when higher current is drawn by tool. When I first saw this low voltage I thought the battery was bad, but it ran the tool fine.
Hello and thanks grate president you’re good I used to do this end more trike methods I’m ( X Marine ) i lost some of my left lag put it’s all good thank you For Sharing !! God Bless !! Thanks
This will work but in certain cases this could end in battery explosion... All you need to do is add a resistor inline to limit the current while boosting the dead cell maybe like 10ohms..also if the dead pack is say 75% down you could have a bad cell and I would then leave the fix to a pro as there is a good chance it could end in fire
Thank you. Really, I'm not an expert on this, but I used the method to get my battery usable again. I will continue research and I may post an update video perhaps.
I've heard a rumor that RYOBI will replace a "dead" battery for free as long as you have not messed with it. True/False? I have several that will not charge, but the green charging light comes on. Seems that RYOBI would have fixed this problem years ago. The charger should detect a too low battery critical condition, and when it does, it applies your fix. Simple solution. Another fix would be installing a buzzer in the battery that activates when the battery is near the no-charge point, say 7 volts; this solution would help prevent you from letting the battery enter that low battery volts/no charge condition. For what these batteries cost, this no charge situation should not be allowed to happen.
I have a 5.0ah battery that's not been able to charge for over two years and has been sitting on a shelf ever since. When plugged into charger, both green and red LEDs would flash constantly.....DEAD! I was about to recycle it today whilst having a clear out, but figured I'd have a look to see if it could be fixed. I tried the other method first, connecting alligator clips to the charger terminals and battery terminals, bypassing the safety circuit and nada! Was about to finally dispose of the battery and then found this video and figured I'd give it a shot. Battery was @ 0.300v (IIRC) and after connecting for a few seconds using this method, the faulty battery was @ 12v, tried a few more time and got the battery up to 15.8v. Plugged into charger, the red LED flashed a few times, then swapped over to the green LED flashing! :) Hope it charges! :)
Came here as I have two that won’t charge. One shows 5v on the post contacts and the other 8.5v. I opened the case as you show. On the battery itself, it reads 20v. Why then would it only show 5V at the contact post that inserts into the tool? A working battery I have shows 20V at the post. Does that mean the issue is with the controller board and that the battery cannot be recovered ? Thanks.
I am not sure because the other battery also has a bms on it, but I don't know if that helps avoid any potential issues by bypassing the bms on the dead battery.
I mean the battery has warranty, why not send it back for a replacement? If it’s past the warranty I see how this would make sense. Also, the instructions say to not leave the battery attached when tool is not in use.
Sir you already mentioned that at begin of your video the people doesn't have enough experience and information about electricity and electrical tools better not doing this but many times in your video about how can use the tools to open it or the bolts! This video could be a short and very helpful video. Even With out opening the battery cover you could do that!
Yea I've got 2 that test bad, one that the red light just flashes like it's still testing and another that the charger thinks it's fully charged but it's only at 1 bar on the built in indicator. One of them only worked a few months before it quit on me.
Great video with emphasis on safety, Especially on connecting to the inside connectors thus bypassing components between the 18650s and the exterior connectors in the newer batteries Sometime all that is required is repeatedly inserting the batt pack into charger until unit senses enough voltage to charge the pack, since the initial test provides a small charge, but this can take MULTIPLE insertions, so best to check pack voltage to see if close to 75% of rated voltage. For a bit more advanced DIY viability test and resolution there may be the need to actually test the individual 18650 cells 1) If the source of failure is the circuit board or a non-battery component inside the pack, then NOTHING below will help. 2) But chances are there is one or more under-voltage 18650 Li-ion cells, which can be individually measured with a voltmeter once case is removed. If one or more is significantly measuring a lower voltage than the others (normal around 2-3.6V, below 1.5 V is either dead, deactivated by safety circuit, or hopefully just in "sleep" mode) which may be resolved by a trial of "boosting" the voltage with another 18650 or similar 3.5V power source, + to +,, - to -, for about 15-30 secs, small spark is OK. A confirmation of a potentially viable cell responding to a "wake up" is by showing any sustained voltage increase and eventually allowing it to be charged to 3.6V again. BE CAREFUL, and if voltage remains low or nothing, chances are it is not viable, either chemically or mechanically defective, possibly the safety circuit deactivated it, WHICH SHOULD NEVER BE MESSED WITH. If after trying these alternative reviving techniques you will either have a restored Battery Pack for either short or long term, or one to get properly discarded / recycled... or carefully harvest the parts for other uses. Strongly recommend searching for similar videos, especially of the batt pack brand you use, and BE SAFE!!!!
I have a brand new Ryobi Sawzall that I bought right after Hurricane Ian. I used the tool but with my older batteries. Tried the brand new in plastic bag Ryobi 4AH cells and neither will take a charge and it just flashes red.
Mine said 18.7 but still didn't work. Kept putting it on charge for 2 seconds take it off, did that about 50 or so times. And now it holds a charge n works fine again. Idk read it somewhere
Hey guys I just wanted you to know there's a lot easier way to fix a Ryobi One battery that is completely drained just take a piece of tape and put it over the little metal piece closest to the battery and then plug it in if the battery shows that it's charging and the light is solid leave it for 15 minutes (watching it!) Take it out put it in your flashlight test it out if your light stays on put it back in it will start charging again you might not have to do the flashlight thing 😂
Well, Just tried that. Put a small piece of tape over the one on the back of the charging 'post' and the internals never 'clicked', so the internals sensed a malfunction and shut down the charging. Then I tried a piece of tape on the very small contact on the surface of teh charger and same thing. So that didn't work as it cut off the inputs that the charging system uses to tell if the battery is charging properly or not. Since it could not sense it, it shut it down.
16 minutes? One RYOBI battery I had would charge fully (in the charger) to 8-10 volts (measured on the output terminals) but would provide enough energy to run my hand vacuum. Evidently the connections inside failed for half the individual lithium batteries. Those individual cells are rated at 3.7 volts but will charge to 4.2 volts, so a fully charged battery can measure over 20 volts. Low capacity batteries have 5 cells inside in series. Larger battery packs may have 2, 3 or more batteries connected in groups of 5 cells that are connected in parallel to provide 6 or 9 Ah for longer run times.
One+ 18v lithium battery’s won’t charge. Followed your tips. Prior to charging it had 0.10v charge. After following your tips it is now 5.88v. Placed it on the original charger still won’t charge. Any other tips? Should I bring it up to 10v? Ty
thank you it was so easy enought to jump start my battery i almost throw this one away! i figure i check out youtube before i trash it and sure enought.
Somewhat informative, however, you should never charge one discharged battery with a fully charged one due to current flow into the one that's low and the one that's high. Always use a controlled charger with the ability to control the amp draw and charge voltage. Sending a current flow into or out of a lithium cell can severely damage it and cause an explosive fire. You can purchase a very inexpensive charger on amazon for a few bucks with digital readouts of volts, amps as well as watts. Heating wire up indicates your current flow is very high if it does so with just a few seconds of contact. Your information regarding the layout inside the battery is great, though. It's possible to completely charge the battery with a controlled charger. Heck, that's what you get when you purchase a cordless tool battery charger. I'm not recommending this but you could tap the output on the charger and using the same bypass you demonstrated, you could charge the battery safely. That would be safer than using the method you used, but only if you know what you are doing.....
That heat indicates poor current flow. You need more mass of copper in contact on both ends. And in parallel wiring as you have it, the net voltage will be the average of the two until they are both at that number. Serial wiring, with pos source to neg lower voltage, then that batteries pos to the neg of the source or higher voltage. Then it’s cumulative, or in this case 36Volts.
My Ryobi One+ 18v Lithium battery measures 15.79 volts with the outer jacket removed as well as prior to removing the cover. I have only this one Ryobi battery. How can I charge it enough so that the controller allows the charging port to begin charging it?
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sqeiOkSNRsU/mqdefault.jpg)
SHORTER VERSION HERE: ua-cam.com/video/2J1RhAK31KY/v-deo.html
Thank you! I fell asleep 3 times watching you take the screws out!
@@garysampson5258I'm for the
Hey , that’s so easy a caveman could do it 😂 Thanks Brent for the time & effort! I fixed my old one & a new one that came like that ! No need to return it to Home Depot
@@garysampson5258 Took way too long for those of us who have a little bit of knowledge about tools and batteries and how to disassemle / reassemble things. I thought him 'looking' for the correct bit was somewhat disingenuous since he had clearly claimed he already had worked on restoring that battery. But, I endured to the end .. and watched the entire video. Was a learning experience when tinkering 'inside' the open battery.
Upgraded from an older 18v kit. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv I independently chose the drill and impact tool, before I came across the kit.I like the 3 speed impact gun. It seems more powerful than my older one, and it can be set to be really gentle. The drill is more appropriately sized for my use. I used to have a hammer drill, but I did not like that it was so big and it was not a great hammer drill. I rather have a smaller drill like this, and then get a corded hammer drill for the odd case I need that.
This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries batery.repair and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!
I love your name
Just a friendly hint. Shorten this 16 minutes to 4 or 5.
Good advice for almost everybody on You Tube. Most videos are way TOO LONG!
No shit. He talks to much. I’m glad you can jump ahead.
@@rickbailey1053 ua-cam.com/video/2J1RhAK31KY/v-deo.html
I concur.
@John Darke just a friendly hint. Watch at 2x speed
Just used your video to revive a battery pack that has been dead for two years. Thanks
glad this helped you out!
I had a Ryobi 18 V battery that sat in my garage for over 18 months that would not take a charge.
The "Fix" was fast...easy & safe.
I used my 12VDC trickle charger ..held the "+" & the "- " cables to the battery posts for slightly over 2 minutes.
I then put the battery into the Ryobi battery charger.
The charger "Testing" cycle ran a little longer than normal then it started the charging cycle !
I did not do any disassembly ...I didn't drill any holes !
Yeah, but mine is almost fully charged, and will not activate any of my Ryobis... 12v charger will not charge 17v pack. But will a dead one, yes.
Exact same as I did to 'prime' my 18v and 24v; both were dead 5-10 years.
wow thanks left a ryobi battery in the car on my ryobi buffer went to use it dead plugged it in, went back to check it next morning nothing thought crap saw this tried it now its charging thanks so much plus so much fun when you put the possitive to neg by mistake damn eye sight
I previously repaired my ryobi batteries without taking the batteries apart and just using the contacts on the batteries and a battery charger set on 2 amp. Theyve been working fine for over a year now.
And thanks.How long do you leave the battery charger on
I too, used my automotive battery charger, @2 amp setting. One minute only needed to get the Ryobi 18v and Black& Decker 24v 'primed.' Full enough to get each respective charger to launch!
Just tried this on a battery that was sitting in my Ryobi garage door opener and it drain my battery. It CHARGING now!! Thank you.
I left the battery in charge and switch off the mains by mistake. Battery voltage was showing zero without opening the battery. After opening, internal terminals showed 4.5V. Made a connection as shown in video, internal voltage went up to 14.7 in couple of minutes. Put it back together and tried the charger. Its worked like magic. Thanks a lot for the assembly video.
Thank you for making this step by step video!!! I had two of theses batteries in my battery recycle collection waiting to be dropped off and two replacement batteries in my shopping cart. I watched your video and followed your instructions and both batteries are now fully functional!! This saved me and many other folks a lot of money! Thank you!!!
Do you need to bypass the controller board with cover off or can you simply connect to a charged battery?
yes, this is why the battery must be disassembled in order to bypass it otherwise, you cannot send power to those cells.
I had 3 batteries that would not charge at all, considered replacing them or getting a whole new set.
This video saved me alot of $$, all three are now charging and working. Thank you.
You are THE MAN!! I bought a Ryobi drill-driver a couple of years ago which came with two batteries - one was DOA. I got busy and forgot about it until this video somehow came across my feed. I followed the directions and the battery is FIXED!! Thank you!
That exact circumstances happened to me bought the drill & 2 batteries CA,one of em didn’t want to take a charge, it does now
It worked. Battery showed .2v. Took it apart, checked the battery itself, it showed 3.6v. Put the leads on for about 15 seconds. Battery was now at 12.3v. Put back together. It charged and I’m using now. Thank you so much. Saved me a few bucks.
I have just put about 12 Ryobi batteries in the recycling bin. I wish I had seen this before I did. A question: Is it essential to open the case to get at the terminals, which I assume bypasses the controller, or can you just connect + to + and - to - using the terminals on the posts without dismantling the battery pack? Either way, thanks for the video. I'll try it when the current crop of very expensive batteries plays up.
yea, have to open the case to bypass the controller
you can also use two 9volt batteries hooked together in series (18-ish volts) and jumper them to the board. this was a great tutorial. Thanks!
why so many dislikes? This worked perfectly for me and will probably work for a lot of different batteries :)
You have to charge each individual cell separately. These battery packs charge all the cells in series which quickly leads to unbalanced charging. The computer board is only for safety.. it shuts off charging when any single cell reaches max voltage..
This video process didn't work for me. Did you ever figure it out how you charge your Ryobi batteries? Do I need to charge reach individual cell separately?
I honestly didn't think this would work and I was highly skeptical, but what the hell I got out the battery tester came out at 4.7 volts hooked up my charger and set it up 3 minutes later it tested at 7.5 volts. I disconnected it and plugged it into the ryobi charger and sure as shit it started flashing green! 😎 after 6 months of it flashing defective and not charging it took a 3 minute alternative to fix it. Great job 👏 I'm very happy I found your video!
Thanks for this! I checked one of my batteries that wouldn't charge. It measured 0.6 mV! After 15 sec of charge it went to 7.1 V. Put it back together and charged successfully!
Did it today on a 5 year old battery that I haven't been able to charge for over 2 years. Works like magic! What seems to be one possible cause of the Red Light of Death is when your batteries are exposed to cold temps for extended periods of time. Now, 6 of 6 batteries still running strong. Thank you so much!
I tried other methods from other videos, nothing. Your instructions were not only the easiest, but the most effective. Thanks! This worked in less than a minute.
Ironically, I made a youtube video praising Ryobi and then one of my batteries went defective. Thankfully, my bummer was short lived. This method worked quite well. I was able to unscrew 4 of the 5 screws with a normal torx bit. I drilled out the 5th and replaced it with a standard Phillips. Looks janky but I'm back in business!
Hmm.. ...u..James odonnell. James odonnell to
Even if it is not connected to the drill, the Ryobi battery discharges it self with severe voltage drop that makes it impossible to recharge. I open the case as you have done and then use a car charger with 12v to jump the voltage of Ryobi battery to 5-6 volt, by connecting it to the Ryobi battery internal terminals for few seconds only. Make sure the polarity is correct. Count to 7-10 and then disconnect. After that the Ryobi battery can be charged on its own charger.
Thanks - I was wondering why not use 12volt battery charger to do this. I guess the actual voltage from the 12v charger is more like 14v (or slightly more) so your 7-10 count is probably good advice.
I set my vehicle 12v battery charging unit to 2A, attached - & +, left it o n e minute. The 'prime' of the cells then launched the Ryobi 18v and the B&D 24v. Work perfectly.
just done this on a 5.0 ah 18v ryobi battery -----worked great-----saved loads of money ----many thanks.
Careful when using a ryobi fan. I discharge a battery below the min voltage by forgetting I had it on. Did your trick and revived the battery. Thankyou
Worked perfectly June 19, 2022. Total of about 30 seconds of connection necessary to get it past threshold... Seemed to want to be above 15v to catch a charge from a charger but I tested only a few times during process, once at 7v, once at 12v, no dice, third time at about 15.5v it caught and charged. Donor battery was at around 19v. Lesson learned with cheap stuff: take batteries out when not used.
I've used this method to jump start 3 Ryobi batteries that I had given up for dead. They're not cheap, so this has saved me quite a bit. The only investment was about $10 or so for the alligator clips (and the T10 bit to disassemble the case). Thanks!
Thank you work perfectly thought I had to buy a new battery
Fixed my battery after 3 years dead. TY
worked exactly as he explained it!!! thanks for saving me $70
Thanks guy it worked and saved me some money
I have found that if you just put the battery in its charger, plug in & out to the electrical socket quickly, say 8 or 10 times, the battery will charge normally after that. Worked for me several times with several different amperage batteries.
Thank you, it worked on a battery I’ve had in the back of the garage for ages. Workers a treat and only had to connect both for a few minutes.
Easier fix. Battery showed no voltage, I made two jumper wires one for positive and one for negative and put into top of battery were it’s marked positive and negative. I then attached the two wires to my trickle charger and charged for one minute and then disconnect wires and trickle charger .ohmmeter shows10.2 volts. Put in my ryobi charger and now it’s charging. Easy peasey.
Update: it worked. Brought it up to 12v. Now it is charging on its original charger. Ty very for posting this video. You’re awesome!
I just fixed my battery thanks to this video!
I couldn't fix my battery and gave my Ryobi drill away. Mine wasn't the one series. There's a logic board above the cells as you probably saw. That's what's bad on mine. My model drill was discontinued, so I bought a DeWalt.
Hi Brent thanks for your re-do it's very helpful.Sorry if I was a bit terse in my first comment but I have limited myself to half an hour a day on UA-cam. It was getting out of hand with me especially under COVID lock down.I needed to start actually doing things rather than watching others doing things.Thanks again and Happy New years.
Holy shit I jus realised I'm doing that. Well I did make a floor deck this morning so I'm not that bad
Remember to be careful how closely you set your live ends down on the bench top. See 13:00 for reference. Regards.
That is the same impact driver (P234g), I'm still using today, I use it with a Ryobi P108 4Ah battery and it still kicks ass!
Still using it here as well, been a great driver.
Just did it and it worked.
Thanks brother saved me some cash that's for sure.
Just a safety tip here, it’s a bad practice to hold uninsulated alligator clips with both hands to complete a circuit. It appears his clamp had an insulated tip but if you aren’t careful your body can become part of the circuit up one arm though your chest (and heart) and down the other arm. Use insulated alligator clips or some insulated gloves. Or just use one arm at time.
@@ndandthecave456 It’s a bad practice because if you get used to doing it on low voltages then you will do it when working on higher voltages that can kill you. Then it’s not so funny anymore, is it?
Your video is way in depth. But in the end it worked. Thanks for the post
Just wanted to say THANKS! Was able to get my battery working again.
I think it worked. I've now a second light flashing, before only the first would be steady on the battery indicator. The charger is flashing 'charging'. I had 12V and it was too low too charge. The terminals were showing about 3v. I left the battery in the drill with minimum charge. Now I take the batteries out when put away.
I bought a Ryobi set about I think maybe 8 years ago and they I don't know I think it was the first one it first came out with the Ryobi tech 4 battery well I'm long since lost all my tools but I still have the camera out of the set with that battery that's in it and I'm throwing it in the closet and my tool shed it's been with me throughout the years I've used it here and there throwing it back in there and every single time I take it out and I charge it up it works perfect and I put it through abuse the first couple years when I had it but that battery is still going strong I've never seen a battery lasts this long one of the times I fully charged it used it one time put it away 2 years later I found it in a drawer out my shed and I turned it on and it still had power in the battery I was freaking amazed I kind of want to take the battery apart to see what the hell is inside of it but I do not want to break it
Worked like a charm. I had gone on vacation and forgot one of these batteries in the charger for two weeks. Using the good battery and following your video, it only took 5 seconds of charging to revive the 'dead' battery. Caution: the positive wire gets hot! use needle nose pliers or some similar thing! Thank you. I was about to order a $40 battery.
Thanks for Sharing. I was able to fix my Ryobi Battery.
Brilliant video. Worked perfectly for me. First time. Don't watch the idiots that drill holes in the casing! Even if you just buy one T10 screwdriver specially for the job it's worth it doing it this way.
Y not, jb weld does a beautiful job when your done
The holes are fine, just a slow drilling and stop as it eases up. Pos tab is thinner!
Thank you so much! You just saved me having to buy a new battery.
This video and the many just like it, neglect to show how to measure each cell to see what level they are at and determine if one is defective. Also you can have a pack that measures > 14 volts and still won't charge properly due to other issues.
I got tired of watching and waiting you must be a teacher who has all day
check the description for an updated video. This was the first video I ever made....
This advice works. I tried others but the key is the 2 terminals used.
I would have put the battery on the charger to show it taking a charge.
I have this problem.
Were the Torx Screws always the security / anti-tamper style that take the special 'hollow-point' screwdriver?
Two of my Batts were about 2v. The smaller one: My motorcycle trickle chargers come with mini jumper cables. With the bike running, (14V) I shocked it enough externally to start charging.
My larger Batt, no go externally. I'll open it up and try it. It's actually the battery that I wanted to repair. I
yes, it was a tamper proof torx.
This is the best fix I've seen! No chargers needed, just another battery and some gator clips! Thank you!
What are your thoughts on the ridgid lifetime service agreement. Internet seems to have good successes and also bad stories.
It sounds good but I have not had to use it yet.
Thank you very much go on after it got two of those little ones I’ve always said we’re garbage didn’t seem to do much of anything drive for screws with it and it’s done and then you have to charge it and it’s not too long after you buy it but it won’t take a charge that makes perfect sense thank you
Awesome. Fixed my 5 batteries tonight with your help. Thank you very much for the help.
Thank you!! This saved me from buying 2 new batteries!
The battery controller on newer One+ batteries drops the terminal voltage down to about 7.5v after about one minute of non-use. This may have been done to reduce the discharge leakage when left attached to tool. It pops back up to 19v when higher current is drawn by tool.
When I first saw this low voltage I thought the battery was bad, but it ran the tool fine.
Hello and thanks grate president you’re good I used to do this end more trike methods
I’m ( X Marine ) i lost some of my left lag put it’s all good thank you For Sharing !!
God Bless !! Thanks
This will work but in certain cases this could end in battery explosion... All you need to do is add a resistor inline to limit the current while boosting the dead cell maybe like 10ohms..also if the dead pack is say 75% down you could have a bad cell and I would then leave the fix to a pro as there is a good chance it could end in fire
Thank you. Really, I'm not an expert on this, but I used the method to get my battery usable again. I will continue research and I may post an update video perhaps.
It worked great! So happy you made this video...
I've heard a rumor that RYOBI will replace a "dead" battery for free as long as you have not messed with it. True/False? I have several that will not charge, but the green charging light comes on. Seems that RYOBI would have fixed this problem years ago. The charger should detect a too low battery critical condition, and when it does, it applies your fix. Simple solution. Another fix would be installing a buzzer in the battery that activates when the battery is near the no-charge point, say 7 volts; this solution would help prevent you from letting the battery enter that low battery volts/no charge condition. For what these batteries cost, this no charge situation should not be allowed to happen.
I have a 5.0ah battery that's not been able to charge for over two years and has been sitting on a shelf ever since.
When plugged into charger, both green and red LEDs would flash constantly.....DEAD!
I was about to recycle it today whilst having a clear out, but figured I'd have a look to see if it could be fixed.
I tried the other method first, connecting alligator clips to the charger terminals and battery terminals, bypassing the safety circuit and nada!
Was about to finally dispose of the battery and then found this video and figured I'd give it a shot.
Battery was @ 0.300v (IIRC) and after connecting for a few seconds using this method, the faulty battery was @ 12v, tried a few more time and got the battery up to 15.8v.
Plugged into charger, the red LED flashed a few times, then swapped over to the green LED flashing! :)
Hope it charges! :)
Came here as I have two that won’t charge. One shows 5v on the post contacts and the other 8.5v. I opened the case as you show. On the battery itself, it reads 20v. Why then would it only show 5V at the contact post that inserts into the tool? A working battery I have shows 20V at the post. Does that mean the issue is with the controller board and that the battery cannot be recovered ? Thanks.
bonjour, j'ai le meme probleme que vous, avez vous trouvé une solution à votre probleme, merci
Thanks for this info. It worked for my battery.
Glad it helped
This worked for me on a 3Ah battery 🔋 🔋 👍
i learned a lot of that i didn’t know about the batters from the video.
Can just plug your crock clips directly to battery charger and charge the cells by passing the circuit board
I am not sure because the other battery also has a bms on it, but I don't know if that helps avoid any potential issues by bypassing the bms on the dead battery.
I mean the battery has warranty, why not send it back for a replacement? If it’s past the warranty I see how this would make sense. Also, the instructions say to not leave the battery attached when tool is not in use.
Hi - yes, they're out of warranty by now and typically I don't leave them plugged into the tool for more than a day or so while using it.
Sir you already mentioned that at begin of your video the people doesn't have enough experience and information about electricity and electrical tools better not doing this but many times in your video about how can use the tools to open it or the bolts! This video could be a short and very helpful video. Even With out opening the battery cover you could do that!
The reason for opening case is to bypass electronic controls, terminals outside don't do that.
Yea I've got 2 that test bad, one that the red light just flashes like it's still testing and another that the charger thinks it's fully charged but it's only at 1 bar on the built in indicator. One of them only worked a few months before it quit on me.
1:16 I've run vs I've ran. 15:00 It's gone down vs it's went down.
worked great - thanks for the comprehensive how to do -
Pretty good of ryobi to allow access inside the case
Great video with emphasis on safety, Especially on connecting to the inside connectors thus bypassing components between the 18650s and the exterior connectors in the newer batteries
Sometime all that is required is repeatedly inserting the batt pack into charger until unit senses enough voltage to charge the pack, since the initial test provides a small charge, but this can take MULTIPLE insertions, so best to check pack voltage to see if close to 75% of rated voltage.
For a bit more advanced DIY viability test and resolution there may be the need to actually test the individual 18650 cells
1) If the source of failure is the circuit board or a non-battery component inside the pack, then NOTHING below will help.
2) But chances are there is one or more under-voltage 18650 Li-ion cells, which can be individually measured with a voltmeter once case is removed. If one or more is significantly measuring a lower voltage than the others (normal around 2-3.6V, below 1.5 V is either dead, deactivated by safety circuit, or hopefully just in "sleep" mode) which may be resolved by a trial of "boosting" the voltage with another 18650 or similar 3.5V power source, + to +,, - to -, for about 15-30 secs, small spark is OK. A confirmation of a potentially viable cell responding to a "wake up" is by showing any sustained voltage increase and eventually allowing it to be charged to 3.6V again. BE CAREFUL, and if voltage remains low or nothing, chances are it is not viable, either chemically or mechanically defective, possibly the safety circuit deactivated it, WHICH SHOULD NEVER BE MESSED WITH.
If after trying these alternative reviving techniques you will either have a restored Battery Pack for either short or long term, or one to get properly discarded / recycled... or carefully harvest the parts for other uses.
Strongly recommend searching for similar videos, especially of the batt pack brand you use, and BE SAFE!!!!
I have a brand new Ryobi Sawzall that I bought right after Hurricane Ian. I used the tool but with my older batteries. Tried the brand new in plastic bag Ryobi 4AH cells and neither will take a charge and it just flashes red.
I think these circuits let the cells drop way too low and never cut off. Designed to make you buy a new one.
Mine said 18.7 but still didn't work. Kept putting it on charge for 2 seconds take it off, did that about 50 or so times. And now it holds a charge n works fine again. Idk read it somewhere
Great video when fast forwarded 30 seconds at a time...
Thanks - I made an updated one, this specific one was the first video I ever made, I tend to ramble sometimes.
Hey guys I just wanted you to know there's a lot easier way to fix a Ryobi One battery that is completely drained just take a piece of tape and put it over the little metal piece closest to the battery and then plug it in if the battery shows that it's charging and the light is solid leave it for 15 minutes (watching it!) Take it out put it in your flashlight test it out if your light stays on put it back in it will start charging again you might not have to do the flashlight thing 😂
Well, Just tried that. Put a small piece of tape over the one on the back of the charging 'post' and the internals never 'clicked', so the internals sensed a malfunction and shut down the charging. Then I tried a piece of tape on the very small contact on the surface of teh charger and same thing. So that didn't work as it cut off the inputs that the charging system uses to tell if the battery is charging properly or not. Since it could not sense it, it shut it down.
16 minutes? One RYOBI battery I had would charge fully (in the charger) to 8-10 volts (measured on the output terminals) but would provide enough energy to run my hand vacuum. Evidently the connections inside failed for half the individual lithium batteries.
Those individual cells are rated at 3.7 volts but will charge to 4.2 volts, so a fully charged battery can measure over 20 volts. Low capacity batteries have 5 cells inside in series. Larger battery packs may have 2, 3 or more batteries connected in groups of 5 cells that are connected in parallel to provide 6 or 9 Ah for longer run times.
A variation on drilling two holes in the plastic case, to access the same contact points. I tried both methods on my battery, and it stayed dead.
Mine too. Battery shows 16.8 and 17.1 with inside tabs. Charger keeps saying Green-done, but will not activate drill. Will keep trying...
So does the charging battery need to be fully charge? If so is there something else you can use because both my batteries are dead.
Thank you for the tip. You saved me money
My screws has a small metal post in the middle of the head which prevents the T10 from engagig the screw head. Any suggestions how to get around that?
One+ 18v lithium battery’s won’t charge. Followed your tips. Prior to charging it had 0.10v charge. After following your tips it is now 5.88v. Placed it on the original charger still won’t charge. Any other tips? Should I bring it up to 10v? Ty
Thank you I'll give it a try got 5 batteries are dead
thank you it was so easy enought to jump start my battery i almost throw this one away! i figure i check out youtube before i trash it and sure enought.
It too late now but I'll give it a try kj tomorrow. Thanks.
Somewhat informative, however, you should never charge one discharged battery with a fully charged one due to current flow into the one that's low and the one that's high. Always use a controlled charger with the ability to control the amp draw and charge voltage. Sending a current flow into or out of a lithium cell can severely damage it and cause an explosive fire. You can purchase a very inexpensive charger on amazon for a few bucks with digital readouts of volts, amps as well as watts. Heating wire up indicates your current flow is very high if it does so with just a few seconds of contact. Your information regarding the layout inside the battery is great, though. It's possible to completely charge the battery with a controlled charger. Heck, that's what you get when you purchase a cordless tool battery charger. I'm not recommending this but you could tap the output on the charger and using the same bypass you demonstrated, you could charge the battery safely. That would be safer than using the method you used, but only if you know what you are doing.....
He did say he was only doing this for 20 seconds or so.
How would we by pass it if we don’t have another battery to do that can I use rechargeable AA Lithium batteries?
Worked like a freaking Charm! Thank you!
Thanks so much, worked just as you said
That heat indicates poor current flow. You need more mass of copper in contact on both ends. And in parallel wiring as you have it, the net voltage will be the average of the two until they are both at that number. Serial wiring, with pos source to neg lower voltage, then that batteries pos to the neg of the source or higher voltage. Then it’s cumulative, or in this case 36Volts.
My Ryobi One+ 18v Lithium battery measures 15.79 volts with the outer jacket removed as well as prior to removing the cover. I have only this one Ryobi battery. How can I charge it enough so that the controller allows the charging port to begin charging it?