Today was a write off. Things will be better post holidays! thanks for watching, and much more actual low friction updates will be forthcoming... thanks for everyone's support and help!
Always loving the updates and truly appreciate all of your efforts! Giving you a bit of a hard time (in fun only!)....you signed-off at about the 9:00 point with 'no more time left' and then 4:30 seconds later were still talking..... Thank you for all of your hard work, we are all faster, or at least going through our cycling life with less friction because of your dedication!
I hope that your break will be relaxing . Shimano have reacted to the Dura - Ace and Ultegra crankset recall publicity by flagging some of our industry's reactions including mine and those of many other employees .
Thanks robert - its going.... sort of hahaha - still had a fair bit of work to have to do plus was just sick all weekend dammit! but getting there - hopefully week 2 will get some more actual holiday time, my list of planned home projects to get done has not had much ticked off yet! What is your industry? What do you mean by they have "flagged"? (and what do you mean by "reactions" - did you do something exciting? :) )
When all else fails, upgrade!! Good times. Thankyou so much for replying so promptly to my enquiry. Given all that you had going on today I don't know how you managed to get to it. Valuable information, thankyou. You've won me. Currently saving hard for TRP brake upgrade. Should be done in 3weeks and then I'll be making all my low friction purchases from ZFC in future. It's the least I can do......and also drop recommendations in Reddit whenever I see relevant posts. Thanks again.
I have some of the ZFC carried products seen in their online store but I have had them in my stock for quite some time before the UA-cam channel began . They sold reasonably well to date .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 A few years ago I bought TRP GSPEC brakes for my old bike after a couple of almost incidents convinced me that the the standard issue brakes that were installed were inadequate in emergency stop situations. Got the drilled+slotted rotors (180mm) plus NoahAndTheo ceramic pads and everything was golden. No more sphincter tightening moments. So on the new bike I'm repeating that exercise with their newer DH-R Evo + 203mm rotors. They earned my loyalty and the same goes with zfc.
I have a Rode NT 1500 microphone that I used when presenting breakfast radio weekdays between 2007 and 2012 at 100.9 FM at Yagoona in Sydney . I always used a foam anti - bacterial shield on it . Adam , you should do the same with your microphone for sanitary reasons .
Hi Adam, glad the laptop problem is sorted! Still a good old hum from somewhere - worth repeating my previous recommendation of either Nvidia RTX Voice or the AMD equivalent depending on the card in the new rig. Also looking forward to the candle wax numbers, as well as any hard data about UFO Wet Conditions. I've got some and have done some initial testing (by which I mean riding around on and off road in varying conditions) and am wondering where it'll sit in my product recommendations for drip wax. I currently recommend UFO All Conditions for good conditions and Tru Tension for wet/winter. UFO Wet would have to significantly beat both Tru Tension and UFO All Conditions to be worth buying IMO - as it is in your tests UFO All Conditions blows away TTT in the clean/dry blocks and nearly matches it in the wet, with what looks to be better clearance of contamination so on looking at your figures I'm actually wondering why not use UFO All Conditions in.....all conditions! In reality it does seem to be easier living with TTT in the winter - the chain sounds less dry, it's slightly more resistant to being caught in the wet and left without rusting the chain and it appears to last longer between applications. The downside is of course it's less clean, so if UFO Wet could achieve the above and either be cleaner or perform brilliantly in block 4/6 it'd be a great addition to the offerings! Not sure if you'll get to the testing before our Northern hemisphere winter is over, so I'll rely on my totally unscientific testing this year and keep recommending TTT for no, but it'll be good to hear any updates when you have them.
I hope your holiday is awesome Adam!!!Grats on the new confuser,also I hope your son gets better quick stiff necks are terrible...My friday rant is the lack of user instructions for wax x from silca,I've sent silca 3 emails asking when their going to put out an instruction video for wax x it says right on the can : instructions on line:{liars}!!! Its been close to a year since wax x has been on the market and still no use vid yet they can put out a marginal gains vid weekly,sry for the rant.Cheers!!!
wow that is odd re the instructions, especially as this wax really does require more focus on the break in. I hadnt even thought to check as im pretty groovy with prepping and waxing chains..... but i was initially surprised on the break in time, luckily i had a decent time ride to its first race to break in, but it still wasnt ready - others will for sure have been caught out i think starting a race with a chain that is pretty draggy if just did usual 20 min warm up on freshly waxed chain. Not sure whats going on there - i will be trying to chat with josh on a bunch of things including test results from ceramic speed, so i will add that to the chat list.
The pliers that take off the chain that you had on some of your other videos might be a little bit older. I'm not sure. It had three heads one to take it off and the second head of the on the plier was to put the chain back on. Do you have a link that you can send to me that I could get that same one in the unit in the USA? And what would be the best chain to use on a bicycle? A e-bike I should say is the connex. I have a 8-speed connec I mean excuse me. I have a 8-speed e-bike with the conex be a strong chain and the links the extra links that go with it to pop it off and pop it on. Or would you send me another link to a good chain that to buy for the e-bike that I have? I have $1,000 watt, mid drive motor and that's I'm just want to know the first thing would be the pliers the three-headed pliers on the end the front end of the pliers to take the chain off and then take the chain and put the chain back on with a the link. That's what I'm talking about. The second thing. Is there a better chain than a conex? I don't know. I'm not too familiar with chains that much. Is there a better chain than the conex? I don't know I'm you know I'm not devoted to them but I'm just want to know if if it would be a better one. And could you send me a link to the chain for the bicycle the e-bike and also the pliers send me a link to that. All I got to do is click on it and buy them in the USA. I sure would appreciate it. Thank you. This is the second time asking about the pliers. I regued and get it the first time. Let me know something right away. I sure appreciate. Thank you
I have Connex Wippermann products on all my bicycle fleet and the E - bike ones are rated to 500 watts only according to a technical paper they sent me . I import them as they have no Australian distributor at the moment . I am going to place another order in 2 weeks to meet the riding season demand . I have used their products since 1990 .
hey stephen i use the super b trident tool - thats a cheaper version of shimano very good tool (the shimano is the rolls royce, just very expensive for no tangible advantage in use over the super b version - its just really slick / smooth). For a 1000w e-bike i would probably go for the sram - 8spd e bike chain - i cant remember the model off hand, and they are hard to find - otherwise just make sure you go for an e-bike rated chain in 8spd. no 8spd e-bike chain will really have any wear protection included (aside from possibly srams) - a wippermann, ybn, kmc - they will likely have very fast wear rate so make sure using a good lubricant, make sure checking chain wear regularly, and depending on volume - it can be worth having 2 chains in rotation to make it easier to maintain one whilst the other is on bike - or to re wax both at once if waxing which takes basically same time as waxing one chain- and this ensure you get at least two chains through cassette vs possible just one if get caught out. You always need a new chain sooner or later, so pre buying next one costs no more- in fact it will generally save you some $$ as it makes things easier to keep wear rates lower. Some avid riders on e-bikes / emtb they are planning to keep for a while will run 3 chains - why not etc.
@@zerofrictioncycling992 Not exactly. YBN's higher end chain tech is available on all of their chain line. That's why they tend to be more expensive on the lower end of chains.
The new video quality looks crisp, yet smooth. Very good!
Always loving the updates and truly appreciate all of your efforts! Giving you a bit of a hard time (in fun only!)....you signed-off at about the 9:00 point with 'no more time left' and then 4:30 seconds later were still talking..... Thank you for all of your hard work, we are all faster, or at least going through our cycling life with less friction because of your dedication!
Please dont burn candle at both ends! 😊
Thanks for the update, Adam. Hope you have a great holiday!
I hope that your break will be relaxing . Shimano have reacted to the Dura - Ace and Ultegra crankset recall publicity by flagging some of our industry's reactions including mine and those of many other employees .
Thanks robert - its going.... sort of hahaha - still had a fair bit of work to have to do plus was just sick all weekend dammit! but getting there - hopefully week 2 will get some more actual holiday time, my list of planned home projects to get done has not had much ticked off yet!
What is your industry? What do you mean by they have "flagged"? (and what do you mean by "reactions" - did you do something exciting? :) )
When all else fails, upgrade!! Good times. Thankyou so much for replying so promptly to my enquiry. Given all that you had going on today I don't know how you managed to get to it. Valuable information, thankyou. You've won me. Currently saving hard for TRP brake upgrade. Should be done in 3weeks and then I'll be making all my low friction purchases from ZFC in future. It's the least I can do......and also drop recommendations in Reddit whenever I see relevant posts. Thanks again.
I have some of the ZFC carried products seen in their online store but I have had them in my stock for quite some time before the UA-cam channel began . They sold reasonably well to date .
I have JUIN - TECH brake components and they are fairly popular .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 A few years ago I bought TRP GSPEC brakes for my old bike after a couple of almost incidents convinced me that the the standard issue brakes that were installed were inadequate in emergency stop situations. Got the drilled+slotted rotors (180mm) plus NoahAndTheo ceramic pads and everything was golden. No more sphincter tightening moments. So on the new bike I'm repeating that exercise with their newer DH-R Evo + 203mm rotors. They earned my loyalty and the same goes with zfc.
I have a Rode NT 1500 microphone that I used when presenting breakfast radio weekdays between 2007 and 2012 at 100.9 FM at Yagoona in Sydney . I always used a foam anti - bacterial shield on it . Adam , you should do the same with your microphone for sanitary reasons .
Enjoy your time off. We know how to stay low friction well enough
Ta! Enjoy the hols 🎉
Hi Adam, glad the laptop problem is sorted! Still a good old hum from somewhere - worth repeating my previous recommendation of either Nvidia RTX Voice or the AMD equivalent depending on the card in the new rig.
Also looking forward to the candle wax numbers, as well as any hard data about UFO Wet Conditions. I've got some and have done some initial testing (by which I mean riding around on and off road in varying conditions) and am wondering where it'll sit in my product recommendations for drip wax. I currently recommend UFO All Conditions for good conditions and Tru Tension for wet/winter.
UFO Wet would have to significantly beat both Tru Tension and UFO All Conditions to be worth buying IMO - as it is in your tests UFO All Conditions blows away TTT in the clean/dry blocks and nearly matches it in the wet, with what looks to be better clearance of contamination so on looking at your figures I'm actually wondering why not use UFO All Conditions in.....all conditions!
In reality it does seem to be easier living with TTT in the winter - the chain sounds less dry, it's slightly more resistant to being caught in the wet and left without rusting the chain and it appears to last longer between applications. The downside is of course it's less clean, so if UFO Wet could achieve the above and either be cleaner or perform brilliantly in block 4/6 it'd be a great addition to the offerings!
Not sure if you'll get to the testing before our Northern hemisphere winter is over, so I'll rely on my totally unscientific testing this year and keep recommending TTT for no, but it'll be good to hear any updates when you have them.
I hope your holiday is awesome Adam!!!Grats on the new confuser,also I hope your son gets better quick stiff necks are terrible...My friday rant is the lack of user instructions for wax x from silca,I've sent silca 3 emails asking when their going to put out an instruction video for wax x it says right on the can : instructions on line:{liars}!!! Its been close to a year since wax x has been on the market and still no use vid yet they can put out a marginal gains vid weekly,sry for the rant.Cheers!!!
My assistant found a Wax - X instruction paper inside a bicycle forum nested deep inside Road CC after searching for a few hours .
Hey thanks bro!!!Really its just the point of the matter could you imagine if ikea did this lol@@robertmcfadyen9156
wow that is odd re the instructions, especially as this wax really does require more focus on the break in. I hadnt even thought to check as im pretty groovy with prepping and waxing chains..... but i was initially surprised on the break in time, luckily i had a decent time ride to its first race to break in, but it still wasnt ready - others will for sure have been caught out i think starting a race with a chain that is pretty draggy if just did usual 20 min warm up on freshly waxed chain. Not sure whats going on there - i will be trying to chat with josh on a bunch of things including test results from ceramic speed, so i will add that to the chat list.
I have an 8 year old Toshiba laptop that is still running great . I have a second Tecra version that I bought in April .
Did your son by chance exclaim "This one's going to the moon" before said high kick?
sadly no. Apparently in real sparring that is "telepathing" ones move so its not encouraged in training :)
The pliers that take off the chain that you had on some of your other videos might be a little bit older. I'm not sure. It had three heads one to take it off and the second head of the on the plier was to put the chain back on. Do you have a link that you can send to me that I could get that same one in the unit in the USA? And what would be the best chain to use on a bicycle? A e-bike I should say is the connex. I have a 8-speed connec I mean excuse me. I have a 8-speed e-bike with the conex be a strong chain and the links the extra links that go with it to pop it off and pop it on. Or would you send me another link to a good chain that to buy for the e-bike that I have? I have $1,000 watt, mid drive motor and that's I'm just want to know the first thing would be the pliers the three-headed pliers on the end the front end of the pliers to take the chain off and then take the chain and put the chain back on with a the link. That's what I'm talking about. The second thing. Is there a better chain than a conex? I don't know. I'm not too familiar with chains that much. Is there a better chain than the conex? I don't know I'm you know I'm not devoted to them but I'm just want to know if if it would be a better one. And could you send me a link to the chain for the bicycle the e-bike and also the pliers send me a link to that. All I got to do is click on it and buy them in the USA. I sure would appreciate it. Thank you. This is the second time asking about the pliers. I regued and get it the first time. Let me know something right away. I sure appreciate. Thank you
I have Connex Wippermann products on all my bicycle fleet and the E - bike ones are rated to 500 watts only according to a technical paper they sent me . I import them as they have no Australian distributor at the moment . I am going to place another order in 2 weeks to meet the riding season demand . I have used their products since 1990 .
Get the YBN Ebike chain from an official distributor if possible.
hey stephen i use the super b trident tool - thats a cheaper version of shimano very good tool (the shimano is the rolls royce, just very expensive for no tangible advantage in use over the super b version - its just really slick / smooth).
For a 1000w e-bike i would probably go for the sram - 8spd e bike chain - i cant remember the model off hand, and they are hard to find - otherwise just make sure you go for an e-bike rated chain in 8spd. no 8spd e-bike chain will really have any wear protection included (aside from possibly srams) - a wippermann, ybn, kmc - they will likely have very fast wear rate so make sure using a good lubricant, make sure checking chain wear regularly, and depending on volume - it can be worth having 2 chains in rotation to make it easier to maintain one whilst the other is on bike - or to re wax both at once if waxing which takes basically same time as waxing one chain- and this ensure you get at least two chains through cassette vs possible just one if get caught out. You always need a new chain sooner or later, so pre buying next one costs no more- in fact it will generally save you some $$ as it makes things easier to keep wear rates lower. Some avid riders on e-bikes / emtb they are planning to keep for a while will run 3 chains - why not etc.
@@zerofrictioncycling992 Not exactly. YBN's higher end chain tech is available on all of their chain line.
That's why they tend to be more expensive on the lower end of chains.