I recently bought a 2 hp Evinrude outboard to use with my canoe. I tried it for the first time yesterday and decided very quickly that it was too unstable and need outriggers. I really like your design how it just clamps onto the boat without drilling and will incorporate that into my design. Thank you!
As I sit here in my rv on a rainy February evening at Lake Havasu Arizona. I was thinking about how to make the trolling motor for my canoe faster. I think the answer is get rid of the trolling motor altogether. My canoe actually has a transom and back plate. Mouting a small outboard will be simple. The pontoons yes, definitely want those. Anybody that puts a gas engine on a canoe gets a like and subscribe from me.
My motor's manual says the anti-cavitation plate should be 0-1" below the bottom of the boat. And research tells me if it's too low, it wastes power and splashes water up. Maybe your motor needs to be lifted higher for best performance and to prevent getting as wet.
I have some 1 inch dia. steel pipe (already bent, much like you have in this video) for cross pieces, and also an 60 inch long piece of PVC., 4 inches in dia. pipe lying around doing nothing. I was wondering, if I cut the PCV pipe into two equal pieces (30 inches long),, and set it up much like you have in your video, do you thing that would work okay enough, to keep my canoe stable enough for both standing, and using a 40 lb thrust elec. trolling motor, for fishing? I had thought of using a blow-up 23 inch long, boat bumper as a stabilizer. Which do you think (between the PCV pipe, or the rubber blow-up Boat bumper), would do the job better? Curious to know.
This is Sharon - but Rick says -the PVC pipe should be better. I stand in this canoe - our outriggers are only 2" in diameter but they are 6ft long. What do you have to lose - try it and let us know how it works. Of course the shorter PVC is better as far as worrying about getting in the way of a fishing line - you know? I have had my line caught on our 6" outriggers - so shorter may be better. Wear your life vest and try it in calm waters first. Let us know - curious how it works out. Best of luck to you. A stablilized canoe makes all the difference in the world - you'll see.
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I recently bought a 2 hp Evinrude outboard to use with my canoe. I tried it for the first time yesterday and decided very quickly that it was too unstable and need outriggers. I really like your design how it just clamps onto the boat without drilling and will incorporate that into my design. Thank you!
You are welcome. Ours is nothing fancy - but it works great. We've even been in some rough back bays with it. Thanks for watching.
Rick is so engineering smart. That was so cool 😎
yes, he loves to tinker with stuff. he's like Mr Fix-it. thanks
Thank you for the video
Thank you for watching.
As I sit here in my rv on a rainy February evening at Lake Havasu Arizona. I was thinking about how to make the trolling motor for my canoe faster. I think the answer is get rid of the trolling motor altogether. My canoe actually has a transom and back plate. Mouting a small outboard will be simple. The pontoons yes, definitely want those.
Anybody that puts a gas engine on a canoe gets a like and subscribe from me.
LOL - thanks so much!
OMG I have the same canoe 🤟🏽
Cool did you make outriggers too?
@@cargoon-cargoconversionbui2880 yes I did exactly what he said ❤
Awesome. Hope they worked out for you!
Nice 👍 what diameter Abs pipe? What diameter metal conduit for the frame? Thanks
Rick says it's a 2" diameter pipe and a 1/2" metal conduit. Thanks for watching.
My motor's manual says the anti-cavitation plate should be 0-1" below the bottom of the boat. And research tells me if it's too low, it wastes power and splashes water up. Maybe your motor needs to be lifted higher for best performance and to prevent getting as wet.
Thanks. We'll have to try that.
I have some 1 inch dia. steel pipe (already bent, much like you have in this video) for cross pieces, and also an 60 inch long piece of PVC., 4 inches in dia. pipe lying around doing nothing. I was wondering, if I cut the PCV pipe into two equal pieces (30 inches long),, and set it up much like you have in your video, do you thing that would work okay enough, to keep my canoe stable enough for both standing, and using a 40 lb thrust elec. trolling motor, for fishing? I had thought of using a blow-up 23 inch long, boat bumper as a stabilizer. Which do you think (between the PCV pipe, or the rubber blow-up Boat bumper), would do the job better? Curious to know.
This is Sharon - but Rick says -the PVC pipe should be better. I stand in this canoe - our outriggers are only 2" in diameter but they are 6ft long. What do you have to lose - try it and let us know how it works. Of course the shorter PVC is better as far as worrying about getting in the way of a fishing line - you know? I have had my line caught on our 6" outriggers - so shorter may be better. Wear your life vest and try it in calm waters first. Let us know - curious how it works out. Best of luck to you. A stablilized canoe makes all the difference in the world - you'll see.
Thanks for your reply back. I'll keep what you stated in mind, as I proceed to upgrade my canoe. .... again thanks.@@cargoon-cargoconversionbui2880
How far is that motor mount from the stern
about 20 inches.
What diameter pipe and how long was it.
the pvc pipes are 2" diameter and 5 feet long. The metal conduit is 1/2". good luck.
long og short leg Honda?
Rick says he has a short leg Honda. 4 stroke 2HP