The 2 extra plastic pieces on the banana plug is just to keep the plug screw from hitting a metal frame. They also work very nice on keeping the plug pretty straight. Great Video!
The purpose of the 2 pieces of plastic on the post is to sandwich the panel they are mounted to in between. They isolate the posts from the panel that way if the panel is metal you dont short the posts to each other.
Correct. I was going to comment that but you beat me to it! :-) I'm about a year and a half late. :-0 I am just surprised Julian didn't know that. Love Your Videos Julian!!
If you want to screw machine screws into wood you might want to try "threaded inserts". Ebay had these: "100pcs M2 x 3mm Brass Insert Threaded Decorative Embedded Knurled Nuts".
The nesting plastic rings allow you to install this in a metal panel and retain isolation from the metal panel. Each half of the nesting pair is installed on opposite sides of the metal panel with the tee shaped part protruding through the metal panel.
I literally just received that exact torch! What a coincidence haha. I love this little torch and i knew about the turbo mode but didn’t about the variable mode. Brilliant for looking at small chips or writing on pcbs etc..
Hi Julian, @ 1'21" the shank bit is to go through metal thus insulating the beastie. I f I was screwing into wood I would discard these bits. Thank you for the post.
Drill a 3mm hole through the board. From the opposite side drill a 7mm hole deep enough expose the 3mm threaded shaft when binding post is in place. Drop the 3mm nut in the hole and tighten the binding post. This would be the proper way.
The sleeve is for isolation in metal panels. This is very common. Problem with this cheap things is often the diameter and length of the hole. To wide and to short. To clamp the U shaped connectors you want a connector that also has a metal washer permanent attached to the plastic "nut" . Just look at the construction of a decent one made by Hirschmann or so. The type of metal is also important if you use it for measurement purpose. (seebeck and resistance) And you want a fine tread with 2 nuts so it does not come loose over time.
with the little LED torch, idk why you would want to manually set it to max brightness. if you want it at max, just click it on. the variable brightness mode is for when you want it somewhere in between min and max settings
If you're not sure what to do with the 4 ohm power resistor just add a length of flexible wire and a crocodile clip to either end and use it as a capacitor discharging tool!
You put the plastic pieces either side of the mounting panel, in exactly the same way as the 1970's RS Components ones were mounted. This gives isolation from any metal panel, and stops any problems with rotation from undoing the nut.
If the delivery of the LED's was in August, and you're opening it in December you're way beyond the resolution period for any problems. Best to open them on the delivery day. Unless you've carefully repacked them, ready for use in a video four months later?
You can often buy the genuine Nitecore Tube for about £5 from Banggood. It's worth buying a real one, as the battery, circuit and LED are better...and the case is polycarbonate, so won't break unless you do something drastic.
Just countersink some holes in the wood and glue the nuts inside the holes. You can either cut the posts to size or drill a 3 mm relief hole through the wood if it is thick enough.
Grr! I got one of those boxes of different coloured LEDs only to discover that all of the 5mm clear LEDs lit up red instead of white (destroyed one of them with an over-voltage to find that out). The 3mm clear LEDs are white, but all the 5mm clear LEDs are red.
The Postbag makes me jealous. I like nice electronic devices too. can't afford to hang out at Ebay too long. My paycheck is gone in a matter of minutes... :) Hi Julian ! Thanks for the videos you take time to post. Love them !
Maybe Turbo Mode simply means the quickest, and guaranteed, access to maximum brightness, regardless which one of the OFFs the lamp is currently in. Plus of course that it is push-to-light, extinguishing when you let go.
Anvilshock i was thinking it might put the battery directly across the led? And high mode is just slightly down from that? Im not brave enough to break mine to test it 😂
Does your light have a lock function? I think I have a genuine nitecore and when on you press and hold it will flash and lock and then press long again to wake up. I've had it die in my pocket a few times.
If you want to put those banana plugs into wood, some kind of threaded insert is probably better than putting them directly into wood... There are several types available.
I am a sucker for LEDs, I actually think they are my first and current love of electronics :-) I never really thought about it but are there standard LEDs for 5v that have inbuilt resistors?
There are T1¾ (5mm) LEDs which work directly on 5 volts, they're just harder to find these days. I did a quick search on Ebay and found the older gallium arsenide phosphide LEDs available in 5 volts. If you're just wanting them for use for indicators, these are fine because they're not very bright. Back when Radio Shack was still around, they used to carry a decent selection of 5 volt LEDs to use on proto boards with 74xx series logic. Much of that selection vanished in the 2000s when they started concentrating on selling gimmick toys and cell phones.
These are the ones you're looking for: www.kingbrightusa.com/category.asp?catalog_name=LED&category_name=KCResistor+LED&Page=1 www.mouser.dk/new/kingbright/kingbright-resistor-LEDs/ I'm guessing you can find them on ebay too
Wow, I was about to make the same comment! FrilloTeslar has a viable link here ... but can we get a bag of 500 for only a few bucks from China? The ones I see on Ebay and AliExpress seem to be 12V.
GnuReligion That's the thing though. They are "special" and therefore expensive. Also the resistance is quite high so the voltage drop required to light them is 5V or 12V, and that is pretty much a fixed value, whereas with normal leds you can use a smaller resistor. I just use cheap china leds with 330 ohms or 220 ohms resistors (which are by the way also dirt cheap).
The rubber cover on the USB receptacle (TUBE flashlight) is really flimsy and is guaranteed to disappear within a few days of carrying it in your pocket...
Not sure why you didn't just drill larger holes in the wood for the connectors, if you don't need the rear terminals, just cut them off And the ring on the new terminals is for insulation when metal panel mounting
Those strange sliding things on the terminal posts are for panel mounting. That panel goes betveen those two pieces and they isolate the metal from the panel. Works only with panel less thick than around 3 mm...
So viewers remember who they are watching. It worked with me the first time I watched him and I'm glad. I may have forgotten with all the videos I watch. Been watching Julian for a few years now. He is in my Top 5 Channels.
Too bad the LEDs didn't come in black instead of white, so they matched the colors of the terminal posts. (Yes, a black LED would be rather useless...)
Hi Julian, this morning I canceled all pledges via "selfservice money bank". Please let me know, if there is an alternative way to support you. Direct PayPal?
Hi Martin - I fully understand your decision. I will start publicising my Paypal donate address (donate@256.uk) as well as Patreon at the end of my Postbag videos soon.
The 2 extra plastic pieces on the banana plug is just to keep the plug screw from hitting a metal frame. They also work very nice on keeping the plug pretty straight. Great Video!
The purpose of the 2 pieces of plastic on the post is to sandwich the panel they are mounted to in between. They isolate the posts from the panel that way if the panel is metal you dont short the posts to each other.
It also allows for quite a thickness of material to have the terminal base mounted through.
Good find about the strobing and the PWM max brightness thing. I found that interesting.
Banana plugs extra rings are for isolation when mounted in a metallic case / panel
Correct. I was going to comment that but you beat me to it! :-) I'm about a year and a half late. :-0
I am just surprised Julian didn't know that. Love Your Videos Julian!!
I like the LEDs especially as they are colourful and not just clear when off.
If you want to screw machine screws into wood you might want to try "threaded inserts". Ebay had these:
"100pcs M2 x 3mm Brass Insert Threaded Decorative Embedded Knurled Nuts".
The nesting plastic rings allow you to install this in a metal panel and retain isolation from the metal panel. Each half of the nesting pair is installed on opposite sides of the metal panel with the tee shaped part protruding through the metal panel.
Love that the eBay titles are just a keyword SEO frenzy!
1:30 the two rings that insert into each other are there to insulate the inner post from a metal casing.
I literally just received that exact torch! What a coincidence haha. I love this little torch and i knew about the turbo mode but didn’t about the variable mode.
Brilliant for looking at small chips or writing on pcbs etc..
That piece of plastic, is to not to short the terminals on a metalic enclosure. Is like an isolator for the terminal.
António Carlos Albuquerque the plastic ring is for flush mounting and remove it for an embedded mounting and still have that insulation.
I've got the same LED kit, some of the colours seem a little dim but they are great for indicator lights. Especially the 3mm ones.
Great show and tell--really helps me wisely choose my bench stock. Please keep it up!!
Hi Julian, @ 1'21" the shank bit is to go through metal thus insulating the beastie. I f I was screwing into wood I would discard these bits. Thank you for the post.
Drill a 3mm hole through the board. From the opposite side drill a 7mm hole deep enough expose the 3mm threaded shaft when binding post is in place. Drop the 3mm nut in the hole and tighten the binding post. This would be the proper way.
Those LED packs are awesome.
The sleeve is for isolation in metal panels. This is very common. Problem with this cheap things is often the diameter and length of the hole. To wide and to short. To clamp the U shaped connectors you want a connector that also has a metal washer permanent attached to the plastic "nut" . Just look at the construction of a decent one made by Hirschmann or so. The type of metal is also important if you use it for measurement purpose. (seebeck and resistance) And you want a fine tread with 2 nuts so it does not come loose over time.
Those binding posts seem to be better than the ones I got in my mailbag last week. I wish I'd looked around more before buying the set I settled on.
@1:17 The two interconnected insulating rings are used to mount to a metal enclosure while providing insulation to the post itself.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
with the little LED torch, idk why you would want to manually set it to max brightness. if you want it at max, just click it on. the variable brightness mode is for when you want it somewhere in between min and max settings
If you're not sure what to do with the 4 ohm power resistor just add a length of flexible wire and a crocodile clip to either end and use it as a capacitor discharging tool!
Peg board would be perfect to use with the jacks...
my favourite little torch at the moment are 3 for £1 cigarette lighters with led. pound shop.
You put the plastic pieces either side of the mounting panel, in exactly the same way as the 1970's RS Components ones were mounted. This gives isolation from any metal panel, and stops any problems with rotation from undoing the nut.
The extended screw is to isolate the actual metal screw from any metal chassis you might be screwing it into :)
That one blue LED has an identity crisis, it thinks it's yellow
If the delivery of the LED's was in August, and you're opening it in December you're way beyond the resolution period for any problems. Best to open them on the delivery day. Unless you've carefully repacked them, ready for use in a video four months later?
The 4ohm resistor will come in handy as a dummy speaker load for the super capacitor Bluetooth amp, I'm waiting for you to build.
You can often buy the genuine Nitecore Tube for about £5 from Banggood.
It's worth buying a real one, as the battery, circuit and LED are better...and the case is polycarbonate, so won't break unless you do something drastic.
Just countersink some holes in the wood and glue the nuts inside the holes. You can either cut the posts to size or drill a 3 mm relief hole through the wood if it is thick enough.
Grr! I got one of those boxes of different coloured LEDs only to discover that all of the 5mm clear LEDs lit up red instead of white (destroyed one of them with an over-voltage to find that out). The 3mm clear LEDs are white, but all the 5mm clear LEDs are red.
I have this LED kit and so far none of them have failed me! :D
PS. Cheese and jalapeño is today's mailbag sandwich.
The Postbag makes me jealous. I like nice electronic devices too. can't afford to hang out at Ebay too long. My paycheck is gone in a matter of minutes... :) Hi Julian ! Thanks for the videos you take time to post. Love them !
Still a lot cheaper than a meal at most places.
Don't buy the knockoff Nitecore Tube für 4$. You can got a real one for about 5$ when you search for coupons.
it's for isolation purposes that plastic thing
Maybe Turbo Mode simply means the quickest, and guaranteed, access to maximum brightness, regardless which one of the OFFs the lamp is currently in. Plus of course that it is push-to-light, extinguishing when you let go.
Anvilshock i was thinking it might put the battery directly across the led? And high mode is just slightly down from that?
Im not brave enough to break mine to test it 😂
Polyfuse is actually more interesting inside that you might think en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse
Does your light have a lock function? I think I have a genuine nitecore and when on you press and hold it will flash and lock and then press long again to wake up. I've had it die in my pocket a few times.
Araldite. Job done 😀
If you want to put those banana plugs into wood, some kind of threaded insert is probably better than putting them directly into wood... There are several types available.
Some of my LED Christmas lights has built-in resistors on the LED bulbs any clue where to find those I have searched everywhere
I am a sucker for LEDs, I actually think they are my first and current love of electronics :-) I never really thought about it but are there standard LEDs for 5v that have inbuilt resistors?
David Watts about 20 years ago i used some red LED 's with built in resistor. They could be recognised by a black painted ring on the base of them
There are T1¾ (5mm) LEDs which work directly on 5 volts, they're just harder to find these days. I did a quick search on Ebay and found the older gallium arsenide phosphide LEDs available in 5 volts. If you're just wanting them for use for indicators, these are fine because they're not very bright.
Back when Radio Shack was still around, they used to carry a decent selection of 5 volt LEDs to use on proto boards with 74xx series logic. Much of that selection vanished in the 2000s when they started concentrating on selling gimmick toys and cell phones.
These are the ones you're looking for:
www.kingbrightusa.com/category.asp?catalog_name=LED&category_name=KCResistor+LED&Page=1
www.mouser.dk/new/kingbright/kingbright-resistor-LEDs/
I'm guessing you can find them on ebay too
Wow, I was about to make the same comment! FrilloTeslar has a viable link here ... but can we get a bag of 500 for only a few bucks from China? The ones I see on Ebay and AliExpress seem to be 12V.
GnuReligion
That's the thing though. They are "special" and therefore expensive. Also the resistance is quite high so the voltage drop required to light them is 5V or 12V, and that is pretty much a fixed value, whereas with normal leds you can use a smaller resistor. I just use cheap china leds with 330 ohms or 220 ohms resistors (which are by the way also dirt cheap).
Dissapointed !!! Nothing form alice1101983 :)) ! GJ Julian !
Yes! I love Alice!
Plastic isolate i guess its for mounting on metal sheet material
4:48 -- OH GOD. That blue LED drive me crazy. I guess i have an OCD
YES get it the hell out of there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
OK at 5:27 I think the situation is under control.
That's not OCD, that's just an annoyance.
The rubber cover on the USB receptacle (TUBE flashlight) is really flimsy and is guaranteed to disappear within a few days of carrying it in your pocket...
if im understanding your issue with capturing the select boxes on ebay in OBS you could use a monitor capture rather than window capture.
Very informative video. Thanks for making this video.
Do you got these from sponsorship?
Not sure why you didn't just drill larger holes in the wood for the connectors, if you don't need the rear terminals, just cut them off
And the ring on the new terminals is for insulation when metal panel mounting
Sparky Projects i think he needed them to mount them with, using the thread to cut and grab into the wood
Those strange sliding things on the terminal posts are for panel mounting. That panel goes betveen those two pieces and they isolate the metal from the panel. Works only with panel less thick than around 3 mm...
I am pretty sure you can make obs show the whole desktop and get everything to show.
True, but I like to mask out some of the border clutter.
@ 2'29" just grind it off & use the threads to grip the wood.
Why do you always have a flashlight with your name on it in the shot?
So viewers remember who they are watching. It worked with me the first time I watched him and I'm glad. I may have forgotten with all the videos I watch. Been watching Julian for a few years now. He is in my Top 5 Channels.
It also makes it very difficult for deceptive youtubers to steal his video and pass it off as their own.
I bought the same LED set as you, also for logic stuff but i find the leads are far too short to be useful with breadboard
Little torch listing ended due to an error in the listing.
Getting alot of stuff at once isn't always a good idea. it can get confusing
Why they don't drill side holes in the shafts of those cheap 4mm sockets I don't know, ok I do know - it adds 1 cent per 1000. Just add a markup.
A (w)hole cent more for so much LESS metal? That's outrageous!!
the ebay link to the led-s is dead, just saying
14:00 They copied the packaging from the original Nitecore where you do have to doubleclick for maximum brightness.
Sir , can you please tell me . Where can I buy that green board which u used in your video
You should buy some wood thread inserts so you don't just strip the wood
Not least because wood should never be considered to be an insulator.
video99.co.uk good point i didn't even consider that.
Do I love LED's so much because when I was a kid I loved my lite-brite?
1:45 Remember wool can absorb moisture and water and electric don't mix
100W @ 5k Ohm = 2,236 volts...
Those binding posts are rubbish! My soldering station has a bench PSU and it had those, the plastic knob thing stripped after like four connections
The links you were pointing at were not there?
Also wondering how many supercappacitors do you need.
Links now added - many thanks Mark :)
First link is wrong :P. Missing a / between itm and the number
Hey Julian why do you not use weft nuts? For the terminals. a bit more work but it will do the job even better than you original solution.
6:03 why do you have a spanish google ad on ebay? :D
Not sure - that had me baffled too :)
Too bad the LEDs didn't come in black instead of white, so they matched the colors of the terminal posts.
(Yes, a black LED would be rather useless...)
Light absorbing diode :)
Hi Julian, this morning I canceled all pledges via "selfservice money bank". Please let me know, if there is an alternative way to support you. Direct PayPal?
Hi Martin - I fully understand your decision. I will start publicising my Paypal donate address (donate@256.uk) as well as Patreon at the end of my Postbag videos soon.
Had to stop the video due to the flashing light , maybe a warning next time at the beginning .
please turn off your autofocus
Goodbye friends. No more juice left in this channel. Unsubed
hold the door please ...
The juice will return once Julian's solar panels have basked in some much needed sunshine!
it will take more than sunshine its been drying out for to long now..
Those are probably the biggest resistors i have ever seen. not sure about use cases though.
Try working with transmitters. 5000W 50R resistors are common.
couldn't you use PWM? most things do that these days. do transmitters not use switching powersupplies?
Try poking your head in the door to the motor room of an old lift/elevator there are some nice big resistors to keep you warm!