I got stuck a few times trying to set up my 2.4. Your videos ended up being what I used to get it all running. Thanks for all the work to film and edit them!
I'm currently building a Voron and several of your videos have been very helpful. I like your style with the music and text rather than narration. It's different and you make it work. Thanks for uploading these videos!
Thanks for the informative and enjoyable video. I wish I'd watched it BEFORE I built my Micro v5 Duo. I made some errors, but hopefully it will hold together through a few prints. The biggest error was putting the heat-set inserts in the plenum base instead of in the fans. I had to increase print size to 101.5% in order for the fans to fit. I may have been able to space out my rails, but I opted for sanding left and right edges of plenum and cartridge. Maybe I'll find the scaling problem before starting on a StealthBurner. Looks like you are about to build one, so I'll wait for your SB video before I begin. I'll also watch your earlier ones. Oddly enough, I live in Vanderburgh County, so we are practically neighbors. I don't have a Mastodon account, but it sounds interesting. I may sign up just to have conversation with you.
Thank you. Yes, we are pretty much neighbors. You can contact me with Mastodon or the email in the about page of my channel. Mastodon isn't very friendly to set up. :)
Thanks for documenting the build - instead of winging it (the Nevermore Github page is fairly sparse on how to assemble it) I watched your video and got it up and running in an hour. The longest time was spent on trying to tighten the bolts of the nuts as I was attempting to prevent having to remove the bed. Turns out with a ball hex key and some patience that works as well :) And I recognize your situation, I am also typing this while sitting next to my printer in my home office - I had to print a few clips to install the doors without the Nevermore installed and the whole basement smelled like plastic...
You are welcome. I'm committed to ABS or at least ASA at this point. My prints are so much stronger overall. With the Nevermore I can deal with the fumes. I really don't notice them at all anymore.
Thank you. I think I I'm doing lights and then several things to allow tap to be installed. I'm also thinking about a v0.2 build. I'll have to see if I can afford one with all the Christmas expenses. lol
Thank you. No, there is about 10mm between my bed heater and the filter so it is good. The air is also pulled in on the top of the blower section so you can't block it. My bed spacers are a little taller than the normal (about 2mm). You might want to consider using the larger if the blower is too close to your heater.
Scott, if you're having issues with your bed shutting off, or weird stuff happening post install, even with the new PID tune, increasing your bed temp to 110C, and increasing the power max of the heated bed to 80% worked for me.
Thanks for the video since I'm in the process of building three of them. Two questions, why put in screws in the fan. Pretty sure they're not going anywhere - why alternate the magnets top and bottom? I just put the in the same direction and they seem to hold fine. Something to do with magnet flux....
I used the screws to keep the blowers from rattling. If you alternate the magnets top and bottom the connection is just a little stronger. At least that’s what I’m told.
@@scottcorn I don't think alternating the magnets will affect holding power. However, it does prevent you from attaching the filter upside-down. That came to me today as I was doing the final assembly 3 of them. Mine are all the same way so I'll have to be mindful 😉.
The original designer called for it. It would increase volume and decrease the speed of the airflow. I assume it would allow the ABS fumes to linger around the charcol a little longer.
Great video! Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you need the heat shrink for? I noticed you don't have it on the other end of the connector. I have never used heat shrink so I was wondering if I really needed to add that when I build mine.
The Nevermore Micro on the side is generally what is used. There is a link in the video description that points to the Nevermore gethub that has it and this one.
I used the XL. It is just longer and allows more of the charcoal to be added. I've found that is does a pretty good job of filtering ABS, but there is still a small amount of fumes. It filters all the smell of ASA. I've been printing with it this week.
No specific reason other than I don't normally solder connectors and just use pins. It is too tight a turn on the back of the the connector so you would probably be better off soldering. I do think that wires from the fans will shrivel while soldering. Because of the tightness there isn't much room for heat shrink. You may be better off with short silicon wires with a pinned Molex connector further back where there is room.
@@scottcorn Hi, thanks. I looked for JST wire connectors that could be used as well, but not sure how they would mate with the cutout in the housing. Either way, thanks for the content, I will find that handy in following weeks ;-)
Well it recycling hot air in chamber thus taking heated bed and hotend slightly longer to heat up. You'll notice when heater bed graph line fluctuations and takes slightly longer to stabilizer. PID tuning allows you to tweak values on your printer to minimize any heating element temperature fluctuations. Its like recalibration PID tune again if Nevermore Micro is installed right beneath a heated bed, or draws/exhausts air over the bed thermistor. This is important, as worst case it could cause the bed to overheat, and make the heater adhesive burn, or possibly even damage the bed heater.
What Dax said. lol I would have done one in the video, but I managed to lose one of my M4 knurled nuts for the bed in this upgrade. Because shipping is slow even for Amazon it will be a week before I have some new ones.
It does a pretty good job. I've been printing all day today and most of this week. There is only a small amount of ABS smell in a very tight area. Much better!
Thank you! I use the IWISS IWS-3220M. I like the ratchet one (at least this one) better than the manual tool. I can put the pin in the jaws and go to the first click and it stays put. You can then just push the wire in without it moving and finish the crimp. You can even lay it down and it doesn't move. It works for all the pins I use except the Dupont.
I wonder why is it controlled by bed, I would think it should be controlled by extruder instead. Bed doesnt make the fumes, melted plastic coming from the hotend does.
I've never heard it said, but my thoughts are; The bed is the first thing to heat up and the last thing to cool down. This will keep the filter running longer and reduce the fumes. This is an assumption on my part, but I think it is correct that the longer the filter runs the more it will filter.
It cuts down on the fumes from the ABS. I work (programmer) in the area where my printer is and the fumes were giving me a headache after being in it all day.
I got stuck a few times trying to set up my 2.4. Your videos ended up being what I used to get it all running. Thanks for all the work to film and edit them!
Glad to help!
I'm currently building a Voron and several of your videos have been very helpful. I like your style with the music and text rather than narration. It's different and you make it work. Thanks for uploading these videos!
Thanks for the informative and enjoyable video. I wish I'd watched it BEFORE I built my Micro v5 Duo. I made some errors, but hopefully it will hold together through a few prints. The biggest error was putting the heat-set inserts in the plenum base instead of in the fans.
I had to increase print size to 101.5% in order for the fans to fit. I may have been able to space out my rails, but I opted for sanding left and right edges of plenum and cartridge. Maybe I'll find the scaling problem before starting on a StealthBurner. Looks like you are about to build one, so I'll wait for your SB video before I begin. I'll also watch your earlier ones.
Oddly enough, I live in Vanderburgh County, so we are practically neighbors. I don't have a Mastodon account, but it sounds interesting. I may sign up just to have conversation with you.
Thank you.
Yes, we are pretty much neighbors. You can contact me with Mastodon or the email in the about page of my channel. Mastodon isn't very friendly to set up. :)
Thanks for documenting the build - instead of winging it (the Nevermore Github page is fairly sparse on how to assemble it) I watched your video and got it up and running in an hour. The longest time was spent on trying to tighten the bolts of the nuts as I was attempting to prevent having to remove the bed. Turns out with a ball hex key and some patience that works as well :)
And I recognize your situation, I am also typing this while sitting next to my printer in my home office - I had to print a few clips to install the doors without the Nevermore installed and the whole basement smelled like plastic...
You are welcome. I'm committed to ABS or at least ASA at this point. My prints are so much stronger overall. With the Nevermore I can deal with the fumes. I really don't notice them at all anymore.
Another great video Scott! What are you thinking of doing next?
Thank you. I think I I'm doing lights and then several things to allow tap to be installed.
I'm also thinking about a v0.2 build. I'll have to see if I can afford one with all the Christmas expenses. lol
Thanks for the video! Have you an insulation pad between the bed and Nevermore filter😅
Thank you.
No, there is about 10mm between my bed heater and the filter so it is good. The air is also pulled in on the top of the blower section so you can't block it.
My bed spacers are a little taller than the normal (about 2mm). You might want to consider using the larger if the blower is too close to your heater.
@@scottcorn Thanks for the advice! I want to watch your next video! Cheers
@@Darkgayo Working on it now.
Is there a way to control the fan? Like I would want to use it when printing ASA but not when printing pla.
Scott, if you're having issues with your bed shutting off, or weird stuff happening post install, even with the new PID tune, increasing your bed temp to 110C, and increasing the power max of the heated bed to 80% worked for me.
Thank you. I’ve actually not printed with the Nevermore on yet. I didn’t get done with the video until later last night.
Thanks for the video since I'm in the process of building three of them. Two questions, why put in screws in the fan. Pretty sure they're not going anywhere - why alternate the magnets top and bottom? I just put the in the same direction and they seem to hold fine. Something to do with magnet flux....
I used the screws to keep the blowers from rattling. If you alternate the magnets top and bottom the connection is just a little stronger. At least that’s what I’m told.
@@scottcorn I don't think alternating the magnets will affect holding power. However, it does prevent you from attaching the filter upside-down. That came to me today as I was doing the final assembly 3 of them. Mine are all the same way so I'll have to be mindful 😉.
Thank you for the very informative video! May I know if it is necessary to make openings at the 5015 fan outlet?
The original designer called for it. It would increase volume and decrease the speed of the airflow. I assume it would allow the ABS fumes to linger around the charcol a little longer.
Great video! Sorry for the dumb question, but what do you need the heat shrink for? I noticed you don't have it on the other end of the connector. I have never used heat shrink so I was wondering if I really needed to add that when I build mine.
Thank you! I was afraid the pins would touch each other on the back of the connector. It’s really right there and has to bend to fit.
I haven't been able to get this answered, I'm building a V 0.1 and want to use a Nevermore filter. Any idea on what one to make?
The Nevermore Micro on the side is generally what is used. There is a link in the video description that points to the Nevermore gethub that has it and this one.
@@scottcorn Awesome, thank you for all the videos and knowledge!
Amazing Videos to follow.
Thank you!
Thank you for your content!
What cartridge did you used? The XL cartridge or the regular one? and why?
I used the XL. It is just longer and allows more of the charcoal to be added.
I've found that is does a pretty good job of filtering ABS, but there is still a small amount of fumes.
It filters all the smell of ASA. I've been printing with it this week.
I printed these parts and it two small fans does not fit.
Hi, any specific reason why you're not soldering the wires to the JST connector and you're using pins instead?
No specific reason other than I don't normally solder connectors and just use pins.
It is too tight a turn on the back of the the connector so you would probably be better off soldering. I do think that wires from the fans will shrivel while soldering. Because of the tightness there isn't much room for heat shrink. You may be better off with short silicon wires with a pinned Molex connector further back where there is room.
@@scottcorn Hi, thanks. I looked for JST wire connectors that could be used as well, but not sure how they would mate with the cutout in the housing. Either way, thanks for the content, I will find that handy in following weeks ;-)
Why would you need to do another PID bed tune? Does the Nevermore effect how the bed heats? Sorry if this is a stupid question
Well it recycling hot air in chamber thus taking heated bed and hotend slightly longer to heat up. You'll notice when heater bed graph line fluctuations and takes slightly longer to stabilizer. PID tuning allows you to tweak values on your printer to minimize any heating element temperature fluctuations. Its like recalibration
PID tune again if Nevermore Micro is installed right beneath a heated bed, or draws/exhausts air over the bed thermistor. This is important, as worst case it could cause the bed to overheat, and make the heater adhesive burn, or possibly even damage the bed heater.
What Dax said. lol I would have done one in the video, but I managed to lose one of my M4 knurled nuts for the bed in this upgrade. Because shipping is slow even for Amazon it will be a week before I have some new ones.
Ah. That's makes sense. Didn't think about it like that. Thank you for the answers
Scott so what is the verdict on the nevermore?
It does a pretty good job. I've been printing all day today and most of this week. There is only a small amount of ABS smell in a very tight area. Much better!
Good, im loving the vids
Thank you
Great Video as always Scott!!!
What crimp tool did you use?
Best regards from Austria!
Thank you! I use the IWISS IWS-3220M. I like the ratchet one (at least this one) better than the manual tool. I can put the pin in the jaws and go to the first click and it stays put. You can then just push the wire in without it moving and finish the crimp. You can even lay it down and it doesn't move. It works for all the pins I use except the Dupont.
I wonder why is it controlled by bed, I would think it should be controlled by extruder instead.
Bed doesnt make the fumes, melted plastic coming from the hotend does.
I've never heard it said, but my thoughts are; The bed is the first thing to heat up and the last thing to cool down. This will keep the filter running longer and reduce the fumes. This is an assumption on my part, but I think it is correct that the longer the filter runs the more it will filter.
@@scottcorn good point
Choice bgm cuts as usual.
Thank you!
So I don't understand why you are using this?
It cuts down on the fumes from the ABS.
I work (programmer) in the area where my printer is and the fumes were giving me a headache after being in it all day.