Is there a diode on the Pi Zero between power input and the 5V headers? Possibly if you connected the boost to the 5V pin directly you could use the existing charge port to also recharge the battery.
Good tutorial brother,but one should also notice the max current(A) consumption of the raspberry pi under full load, so looking for max current output on the board(charging board) is also a good idea!
Does everything I need come in the eBay link? I mean other than a soldering equipment I already have that. But like the wires and the USB port and all of it comes in the link? Everything except the battery right?
Hi I’m looking to make my own version of a ring doorbell. I’ve got the coding, which I’ll need to put on a micro sd card. Could I use this zero with battery and camera to make it?
Does it have low-voltage cutoff (undervoltage protection)? One problem with combining LiPo and boost-converters is that you can drain the battery to a level where it suffers irreversible damage. Might not be a problem for applications where you can monitor battery levels on a regular basis...
Doesn’t the battery keeps charging and discharging? Does this work as ups ? The reason I am asking this is, I used a normal power bank and kept power bank always connected to power which caused the power bank to bloat in less than a month
Question to the creator: when you added this card and battery, it automatically charges the battery? Have you been able to power the device and battery off a pc/laptop usb device on the data port?
hey i cant find a charging board but you used one in your video that you put on the other side of the board do you have by any change the link for that
It's a decent idea but you're relying on the green solder mask as insulation between the other pads on the battery board and the tracks on the Pi. Really should use some insulated washer between the boards for security.
Hi - I used a 2.54mm JST connector like this ... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PAIRS-2-Pin-JST-XH2-54-Connector-Plug-Socket-2-54mm-190mm-Cable-1S1P/272253345370 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230PCS-JST-XH-2-54mm-2-3-4-5-Pin-Male-Female-Housing-Connector-Crimp-Terminals/232925383226 The connector pins are shallow enough to solder onto the board. Please check that these are the right size for your battery connector.
Thats cool, thank you. Can i ask something please. What power in would it need to charge the battery? would that be 5v 2.5amps? im looking to add a small solar panel to charge it.
Do you think this small board could easily be adapted for solar usage with a solar charge controller? Do you know of any that are similar in low profile?
... I suppose that will depend on your solar charge controller outputting a steady 5V/current when charging the battery. The other board I was using might also be useful; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC5V-Converter-UPS-Power-Supply/254369683869 However, please note the max charging rates for the type of battery (and JP1 configuration) ... info on 2nd image of the listing.
I must admit I haven't tried it with a Pi Zero camera - but it will depend on the size of your battery. If I get round to it(!) I'll have a go with what I've got and let you know.
Depending on your exact setup, you'll be consuming 200mA. Assume a 15% loss on the boost circuit probably and then it's just math. 1000mAh battery - 15% = 850mAh / 200mAh = 4.25 hours. Figure out the exact draw of your hardware/software setup and then you can compute what size battery you need to get the runtime you're after.
Yep, the solder joints and the pads on the RPI could easily short; and the sticky pads used to keep the board on it is not ideal as solution for EM and heat dissipation.
Is this up grade meant to power the Rasp by the 3.7v batt ? Or just add a 3.7v charger to the back of the Rasp that is going to be powered by the 5v power supply. 2a charging to a Lipo batt sounds like alot ?
Thank you for the nice info. But can the PI Zero be powered by 3.7 volts lithium ion battery. As far I know the PI needs 5 volts. Anyway, thanks again.
Most of the Pi uses a regulated 3.3v or lower. The reg works down to like 3.4v input. Only an issue if you need 5v for a USB device that actually needs 5v.
i wonder if you could scavenge a similar power converter from some old electronic that might be laying about. I was thinking maybe off a laptop charger or even like on a cellphones board maybe on a portable charger brick. I imagine that piece or something nearly exactly similar would be easy to snag off of something, but i can also see Rpie needing something designed specifically. Idk if anyone happens to see this comment and has an idea of how i could achieve my scavenger dreams let me know for sure. Great video thanks dude you got my gears spinning
That is not just a charger but a step up converter. The Pi works with 5V at 1A max; these Li-ion batteries are 3.7V, so the board need to upscale the 3.7V to 5V for the Pi to be able to use it. A phone charger does the opposite; takes the 5V from USB or wall charger and use it as is or reduce it to 3.3V, which is what usually internal logic chip uses
@@crocomire9482 Yeah. Also in this case the raspberry pi will shutdown before the battery is dead, so it's no problem. Just if you use it for something else.
Yes, sure - here's the eBay link for the 2nd board ... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC5V-Converter-UPS-Power-Supply/254369683869 and the one in the video: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC-5V-Converter-Power-Supply/254369681028
@@timskillman hey tim, this is a very old comment but i was wondering if you knew how to solder the second board, as the board you linked here is different to the second board in the video
Hi Lord Dorogoth - yes I will be producing more videos on the game engine through several 'complex' examples such as my full blown 3D editor. I'm taking the engine through it's paces to work well in 2D & 3D games and Raspberry Pi specific apps.
great find for this board; but your solution is uber dangerous. You are directly placing a PCB on top of the Zero, which has exposed pads as you can see, and I that would require to place something in between to isolate the 2 PCB so they do not short or send noise signal (anything dealing with electricity produce noise, more on that later). Also that board is made for 18650 batteries, which are quite large and with a large capacity; so using smaller batteries like the flat packs is not really safe for the battery either. The other issue is related to heat: as that PCB looks like a cheap step-up converter that increase voltage from 3.7V to 5V required by a PI to work. That means that it will get hot while it step up the voltage; the pi get hot too, and having 2 PCB so close together when they heat up is never a good idea; especially because as temperature raise, the EM permeability affects signals too, and that board has no shielding for EM noise nor any sort of protection from what I can tell; so there is a good chance that you could just cause damage in the long run to the RPI. All that you have to do is to put a spacer in between the 2 boards with some non-conductive material that can dissipate heat and you should be good to go. It won't be super thin but you have a safer and proper connection at that point; using some .1 pitch headers probably (which is why headers are also helping with heat and EM noise, beside being used for connections).
I like the video. Personally I think it is long overdue in the retropie world that everybody stops pussy footing around with wee batteries. We need a chunky ps2 (or xbox duke) controller look-and-feel as a nintendo 3DS shape (sort of but with xbox360 chatpad) so that each "handle" either side has two C side batteries (totalling 4). At circa 1.5 volt (probably less) these easily give the 5volt (or potentially 6 volt) trimmed down via resistor. Then lots of power can drive a screen or whatnot... and they are commonplace. Plus AA batteries can slot in instead during hard-times. It would blatantly be able to power 5volt usb devices such as ps2 eye-toy cameras etc.
for that you can just connect the output pads of the battery board to the vin and ground pads of the arduino *edit, i think its the 5v pad, but I'm not too sure. You can also power it with usb, with the power wires of the usb connected to the output 5v of the battery board
The first time the team had played a match was when they won a match in which the players had a goal in hand to win a penalty and a goal in front goal in a match that would be a penalty for a goal difference against a team in a match in a game played in which they had won a goal difference in their home game and scored in a penalty area in a match in which the players had to play in their respective positions to make their team qualify to qualify in a game
I was looking for such setup for a very long time. Thanks for sharing 👍
Is there a diode on the Pi Zero between power input and the 5V headers? Possibly if you connected the boost to the 5V pin directly you could use the existing charge port to also recharge the battery.
Good tutorial brother,but one should also notice the max current(A) consumption of the raspberry pi under full load, so looking for max current output on the board(charging board) is also a good idea!
Great content mate. You will get far in youtube. Take my word and continue.
Legend. Time to stop mucking about with 18650 batteries this is so much better!
Does everything I need come in the eBay link? I mean other than a soldering equipment I already have that. But like the wires and the USB port and all of it comes in the link? Everything except the battery right?
Is it possible to make charging work from the rpi's usb ?
This is exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you!
Is the extra micro usb port necessairy? Does it work if I just leave those pins untouched?
Hi I’m looking to make my own version of a ring doorbell. I’ve got the coding, which I’ll need to put on a micro sd card. Could I use this zero with battery and camera to make it?
Does it have low-voltage cutoff (undervoltage protection)? One problem with combining LiPo and boost-converters is that you can drain the battery to a level where it suffers irreversible damage.
Might not be a problem for applications where you can monitor battery levels on a regular basis...
Doesn’t the battery keeps charging and discharging? Does this work as ups ? The reason I am asking this is, I used a normal power bank and kept power bank always connected to power which caused the power bank to bloat in less than a month
That's pretty slick, thanks!
Been searching for this for some time, thank you very much for the tip !!!
awesome but can i make it like using the pi normally would also charge the battery
Does it only power the Pi Zero W for 10 minutes?
Question to the creator: when you added this card and battery, it automatically charges the battery? Have you been able to power the device and battery off a pc/laptop usb device on the data port?
Great little video Tim
hey i cant find a charging board but you used one in your video that you put on the other side of the board do you have by any change the link for that
Do you use a safe shutdown script for this? Because a in the interrupt or not so good for the SD-Card
Very cool! Looking at making something for a pwnagotchi as I can't really find the pisugar battery's in the UK?
if I'm understanding correctly, you plug the pi zero to the micro usb chip that you soldered onto the OUT pins of this chip, right?
How long does it last when Pi is running?
It depends on the battery size and how stressed the pi is, but with the 1000 mAh battery he used, it should last about 2 hours
Wonder if your setup will still allow this to fit in a Retroflag Gameboy Pi Zero case, hmmmm I shall try.
This is what I've been looking for!
how big can you escalate this? f.e. can you attach a 50Ah battery?
It's a decent idea but you're relying on the green solder mask as insulation between the other pads on the battery board and the tracks on the Pi. Really should use some insulated washer between the boards for security.
Thanks for the tip thats a good build note in general
Additionally, this power board may generate extra heat, which is detrimental to the Raspberry Pi's CPU and memory
Can we use power bank module to power raspberrypi zero?
Yes. Much better to use if you hate soldering stuff.
Whats going to happen when you backpower it when plugging in the RPi to your computer? Do you know?
Can you share link of the battery on the video?
Hey man would it be okay if you could tell me what that adapter is called that allows you to plug in the lithium battery to the board??
Hi - I used a 2.54mm JST connector like this ...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PAIRS-2-Pin-JST-XH2-54-Connector-Plug-Socket-2-54mm-190mm-Cable-1S1P/272253345370
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230PCS-JST-XH-2-54mm-2-3-4-5-Pin-Male-Female-Housing-Connector-Crimp-Terminals/232925383226
The connector pins are shallow enough to solder onto the board.
Please check that these are the right size for your battery connector.
how did you electrically isolate ebay devices from pi. Is there like some kind of insulator between?
Thats cool, thank you. Can i ask something please. What power in would it need to charge the battery? would that be 5v 2.5amps? im looking to add a small solar panel to charge it.
I have a question. How long does the 1000mAh battery last?
Yeah, it's not a "crazy" hack, but definitively nice, fun and useful, thanks for this highlight !
What gauge wire are you using between the power board and the usb board?
Thanks pal for wonderful video
There is risky approach, due to shorts between charger pcb and ra-pi pcb.
Not if you put a non-conductive barrier between them. A small piece of paper would work.
@@ophello or kapton tape, paper is a poor isolator. 10 bucks of kapton will last you a lot longer than a fried RPI Zero.
What's the battery capacity
Can you do this on the raspberry pi zero W aswell?
Yes, the bottom of the pi0w is 99% identical.
Do you think this small board could easily be adapted for solar usage with a solar charge controller? Do you know of any that are similar in low profile?
... I suppose that will depend on your solar charge controller outputting a steady 5V/current when charging the battery. The other board I was using might also be useful;
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC5V-Converter-UPS-Power-Supply/254369683869
However, please note the max charging rates for the type of battery (and JP1 configuration) ... info on 2nd image of the listing.
What is the run time of this setup if I use it as security camera?
Thank you
I must admit I haven't tried it with a Pi Zero camera - but it will depend on the size of your battery. If I get round to it(!) I'll have a go with what I've got and let you know.
Depending on your exact setup, you'll be consuming 200mA. Assume a 15% loss on the boost circuit probably and then it's just math. 1000mAh battery - 15% = 850mAh / 200mAh = 4.25 hours.
Figure out the exact draw of your hardware/software setup and then you can compute what size battery you need to get the runtime you're after.
This looks amazing, but I have a question, could it make shortcut the rest of that power supply with other parts that are touching the Rpi?
Yep, the solder joints and the pads on the RPI could easily short; and the sticky pads used to keep the board on it is not ideal as solution for EM and heat dissipation.
But you had to add the Female battery connector to the board. How did that work ?
Literally just solder it on via the 2 pin holes. Nothing fancy :D
Is this up grade meant to power the Rasp by the 3.7v batt ? Or just add a 3.7v charger to the back of the Rasp that is going to be powered by the 5v power supply. 2a charging to a Lipo batt sounds like alot ?
Do you know if could also handle LiFePo? I'm so paranoid with the LiIon/LiPo batteries. really great work!
Noisy?
Thank you for the nice info. But can the PI Zero be powered by 3.7 volts lithium ion battery. As far I know the PI needs 5 volts. Anyway, thanks again.
Most of the Pi uses a regulated 3.3v or lower. The reg works down to like 3.4v input. Only an issue if you need 5v for a USB device that actually needs 5v.
@nyetloki thanks for the valuable info.
I only tried 18650 batteries, will try Li-Ion battery someday.
i wonder if you could scavenge a similar power converter from some old electronic that might be laying about. I was thinking maybe off a laptop charger or even like on a cellphones board maybe on a portable charger brick. I imagine that piece or something nearly exactly similar would be easy to snag off of something, but i can also see Rpie needing something designed specifically. Idk if anyone happens to see this comment and has an idea of how i could achieve my scavenger dreams let me know for sure.
Great video thanks dude you got my gears spinning
That is not just a charger but a step up converter. The Pi works with 5V at 1A max; these Li-ion batteries are 3.7V, so the board need to upscale the 3.7V to 5V for the Pi to be able to use it. A phone charger does the opposite; takes the 5V from USB or wall charger and use it as is or reduce it to 3.3V, which is what usually internal logic chip uses
Awesome! ...but what can I use it for?
... any type of portable / handheld device you can think of created with a Pi Zero!
The board does not have over discharge protection though and will drain you battery to 0% which is bad
Can’t you get batteries with that built in tho?
@@crocomire9482 Yeah. Also in this case the raspberry pi will shutdown before the battery is dead, so it's no problem. Just if you use it for something else.
thats a great setup
Not a bad idea and thank you for sharing.
But not 0w?
Hi Tim,
this setup looks great! Very eager to try this.
Do you also have a link to the second board you have added to this setup? Many thanks
Yes, sure - here's the eBay link for the 2nd board ... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC5V-Converter-UPS-Power-Supply/254369683869
and the one in the video: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2A-Lithium-Li-ion-18650-3-7V-Battery-Charger-Module-DC-5V-Converter-Power-Supply/254369681028
@@timskillman hey tim, this is a very old comment but i was wondering if you knew how to solder the second board, as the board you linked here is different to the second board in the video
@@timskillman those don't seem to be the ones you used in the video. We're looking for the lithium battery adaptor and the micro usb chip
@@timskillman Timmothan james rex you get back here and answer your fans. Ty in advance daddy :*
Brilliant hack!
You forgot a Protection Board for undervoltage.
That's an easy way. Unfortunately you skip software shutdown when the battery is low and cuts the power of. This might corrupt the SD card
Hi DJ-AJ - You're right - that is a risk which needs to be taken into account.
This is cool! will you have any new videos about the game engine?
Hi Lord Dorogoth - yes I will be producing more videos on the game engine through several 'complex' examples such as my full blown 3D editor. I'm taking the engine through it's paces to work well in 2D & 3D games and Raspberry Pi specific apps.
@@timskillman Cool, Thanks! :)
#Brilliant ! 💡
great find for this board; but your solution is uber dangerous. You are directly placing a PCB on top of the Zero, which has exposed pads as you can see, and I that would require to place something in between to isolate the 2 PCB so they do not short or send noise signal (anything dealing with electricity produce noise, more on that later). Also that board is made for 18650 batteries, which are quite large and with a large capacity; so using smaller batteries like the flat packs is not really safe for the battery either.
The other issue is related to heat: as that PCB looks like a cheap step-up converter that increase voltage from 3.7V to 5V required by a PI to work. That means that it will get hot while it step up the voltage; the pi get hot too, and having 2 PCB so close together when they heat up is never a good idea; especially because as temperature raise, the EM permeability affects signals too, and that board has no shielding for EM noise nor any sort of protection from what I can tell; so there is a good chance that you could just cause damage in the long run to the RPI.
All that you have to do is to put a spacer in between the 2 boards with some non-conductive material that can dissipate heat and you should be good to go. It won't be super thin but you have a safer and proper connection at that point; using some .1 pitch headers probably (which is why headers are also helping with heat and EM noise, beside being used for connections).
he did mention adding an adhesive pad to attach the module to the back of the pi zero.
Nice!
This is cool asfck
I like the video.
Personally I think it is long overdue in the retropie world that everybody stops pussy footing around with wee batteries. We need a chunky ps2 (or xbox duke) controller look-and-feel as a nintendo 3DS shape (sort of but with xbox360 chatpad) so that each "handle" either side has two C side batteries (totalling 4). At circa 1.5 volt (probably less) these easily give the 5volt (or potentially 6 volt) trimmed down via resistor. Then lots of power can drive a screen or whatnot... and they are commonplace. Plus AA batteries can slot in instead during hard-times. It would blatantly be able to power 5volt usb devices such as ps2 eye-toy cameras etc.
This is, I'm going to soder on. And make a little wireless device
1:12 Little bit of pad damage there huh. Somebody doesn’t know how to solder. No just kidding, desoldering can be a bitch.
"In just 10 minutes..."... I think I would need at least an hour to do that! X'-D
same
Cool
Same for some arduino models pls :)
for that you can just connect the output pads of the battery board to the vin and ground pads of the arduino
*edit, i think its the 5v pad, but I'm not too sure. You can also power it with usb, with the power wires of the usb connected to the output 5v of the battery board
@@ZuhebusMaximus cool will try thanks
The only way I could do that was if you wanted
The first time the team had played a match was when they won a match in which the players had a goal in hand to win a penalty and a goal in front goal in a match that would be a penalty for a goal difference against a team in a match in a game played in which they had won a goal difference in their home game and scored in a penalty area in a match in which the players had to play in their respective positions to make their team qualify to qualify in a game
I've used power bank to power an old monitor and this PI :) ua-cam.com/video/NsimbAXDnMQ/v-deo.html
dont do coke
Ok