I think this is the best way to have a water maker. Theoretically, if you build it yourself, you will be able to fix it in the remotest places. Great idea.
That's the idea! It's come in handy to have a little knowledge not only on our boat, but to help other cruisers in remote locations with their water makers.
Nice, professional video. More thoughtful installation than most dealers do. I cruise Astoria to Alaska in a powerboat with a lot of room. Always in cold water, 55° or so. I made an inline water heater with NPT screw in elements and clamp on thermostat. At about 70-80°F you get the most water. I flush my whole system with fresh, starting with the boost pump. When I can, I'll anchor in a river. I use 4.5x20 (big blue) filters. They last about 4x as long. I filter 20/5/1 microns and GAC, CTO filters before the hp pump and a carbon filter after the pump. 20 & 5 micron are washable and go several months unless in a muddy river. Other filters last about a year. Original membranes. I have great tasting water and make it year round. No growth problems in the system, but have to use a small amount of chlorine in the tanks. No dock water in 7 years. I also have a Magnum 120/240v inverter. Buy most of my stuff on bebay.
I have no reason whatsoever to watch this video......i live in the middle of the states and dont even have a boat......not even sure how this came up in my video que. That being said i completely enjoyed watching your video!!! You sir are what utubers should all strive for by disseminating great usefully information in a very palatable non condescending way!!! Just had to snowblow 8" of snow in minnesota today (April 3rd...ugh!)and im thinking maybe i need a boat now after seeing how content you are in warm weather.....or maybe im gonna just go to taco bell.......for Tacos!!!!!!!
How did you reply to Steve V3 minutes before he commented. I smell a rat....or is it pickelling juice? You're supposed to be off grid for a start. Anyway, maybe we landlubbers and couch sailors ought to be setting up shore based water makers too, in an effort to produce micro-plastic free drinking water. Thanks for the walk-thru and tips. Its good, but its not Carling. (You yanks may need to google that). So no Tacos this time.
Wilfred Darr .......its still snowing so im gonna be out moving snow again early morning thats whats ya get in Minnesnowta......but Taco Bell is open in my town till 1A.M. so ive still got time....in the summer we have a trolling taco truck around town too.....cant beat fresh street tacos on the sidewalk........id trade it all for a vagabond boat life tho....id imagine its a steep learning curve, sailing that is.......maybe i could just put pontoons on my motorhome........hmmmm
I really like the simple way you described this machine and your reasons for building it the way you did. The result is that you made a topic I always considered "complicated and mysterious" for the new cruiser into something that I understood easily and heck, I even had a eureka moment! Thank you for taking the time to make a great instructional video.
The simple way would be take a Honda 4000 PSI Pressure washer amd hook the high pressure line that would go to the spray wand, to a membrane. Easy. This has a bunch of nonsense.
Nice vid! I built a system like this when we were cruising the Caribbean. 1hp motor, brass cat pump, 2 2.5X40 membranes. The guy that showed me how to build it had been installing water makers for many years for boats, ships, and shore systems. He taught me that a 2 - 2.5X40 membrane system was good for about 40 Gph and that you should adjust the system pressure to get that output. Depending on water temp and salt levels you should use a higher or lower pressure to get the correct output. Running too high a flow rate could damage the membranes he said. Obviously you can not run pressure above the rating of hose or housing. I used my system like this for a few years without issue. Not saying it's right, just what I was taught.
He's right. It can be a little bit more technical than that and you could get a little more out of it at lower salinity, but then there's a distinct possibility of damaging your membranes, so by adjusting the pressure until you get a specified amount of product water you are saving potential membrane issues.
Great video! Spare hoses and cables can be zip tied right next to the hose or cable that’s in service. Just be mindful of the potential for chafe. It’s a good way to clear up those spare parts bins as coils of hose and cable take up a lot of space. Best of all if a failure occurs the new hose/cable is already run and can be swapped into service in a couple minutes.
I bought my boat after Hurricane Sandy from insurance. It's a 1982 Morgan OI 416 ketch. Other than a hole in the hull, the only real damage was to the high pressure pump and motor. The previous owner had removed them from the boat and they were damaged in his house. I have all the other parts and supplies. This video will help me get it running again. Thanks for the good tutorial.
Oh Baby, you da man. I have been agonizing over 5K for Rich Boren's R/O system. I already have two Honda 2200 watt gens. Had to buy them due to PG&E cutting off power last fall due to high winds causing terrible fires. I only have 25 gallon tank on my 30 foot trimaran...but i keep 2-3 water shower solar bags on the nets. When you have a woman on board it is almost mandatory that you have plenty of fresh water. Women do not dig camping style boating. If i go the DC route then i have to upgrade to larger battery bank...like Lithium Iron Phosphate...2-3K, BMS systems, solar arrays, add cost add cost add cost....so, it makes sense to me to use a Honda and a DIY system. Thank you for such a good tutorial and mentoring. I really enjoyed your presentation. Also thanks for the parts list....
Excellent presentation Taco Boy!!! You show a simple solution to the complex problem of fresh water on board. Your output is really high compared to a lot of commercial systems for sale, fast output equals less noise in thee long run!! I really enjoy the show - keep on cruisin .
That was awesome! Best watermaker video out there. If you have other maintenance videos in mind, like electrical problems or engine maintenance, I'm sure they would be of interest. Thanks!
One of the best water maker vids I've seen! Swagelok is the correct spelling of the fittings you referred to and they also can make up the hoses . I live in the Dallas area and we have a Swagelok rep in Plano so they are easy to locate.i am in the cng business and we use Swagelok on all of our fittings.
Hello... Just stumbled on to your channel while looking for DIY watermaker info, and wanted to thank you for explaining it. Subbed and will be following you. Ironically, my boat is also in Puget Sound, and I cruised Mexico in 2012 and 2015 after completing the HaHa, and am planning to do it again in 2020. Keep up the laughs and be safe.
I was watching mostly out of academic curiosity but you mentioned something I had to comment on. You had said that you had bad luck with Parker fittings but great luck with Swagelok. I work with High Vacuum and Ultra High Vacuum systems and we tend to have the opposite results. I have a feeling that both of our failure modes are quite different. My takeaway from this is Parker for gas, and Swagelok for liquid. Honestly my preference between the two tends to stick to "who makes the fitting I need" because corrosion isn't much of a problem for me, but I will keep this information in mind when I am specifying parts.
The tradeoff is requiring a little knowledge to operate it and keep it running properly, but in many ways, that's a good thing. Instead of the watermaker being a mysterious black box, having some knowledge abut how and why it works may increase overall system reliability, as long as multiple people have the knowledge. An advantage of a commercial system may be in integration of the components and automation of the controls.
Great video THANKS! I built small 12 volt system 1/4 hp 12 volt drawing 27 amps 21 inch membrane typical output 6 GPH 200 TDS. if voltage is higher 13.7 or above 8 GPH I could go to single 40 inch and be up around 10/12 GPH but TDS and membrane life will suffer. One thing I added to your basic design is put tee at salt water feed of high pressure pump and ran hose back to panel and mounted pressure gauge. this shows me the feed pressure at pump also when pressure drops I know its time to clean filters. I used cheap magnetic drive (Chinese 21 dollars )for boost pump and typically see 7 PSI at pump head until filters start to clog for me around 2 PSI. I am told you always want positive pressure at pump even with my small system.
You got it .5 GPM cat stainless best match 1/3 hp with direct connect recommended but with 1/4 hp suggested it be run at 700 PSI maybe too much load at 800 but thats what i run it at. Battery voltage can make big difference in both output and TDS. I have 4% voltage drop with #4 wire so when batteries at 12.6 I am seeing 12 volts or less when I run engine with battery bank at 14.4 volts TDS can drop below 200 and product water output around 9 with healthy clean membrane and solid 14.4 but yes if voltage drops to mid to high 11 volt range at motor I can expect 5 GPH TDS 300 . In theory I should be OK Filmtec claims the 21inch membrane requires flow rate 300 GPD Maybe my flow rate drops with lower HP so my 730 GPD may be 600 GPD only guessing. If I were doing it again I would add another 100 watt solar panel to my already 400 watts and go with 1/3rd hp motor.
sailaway01 how do you decide what size membrane to what size pump, it looks like the 4in x21 has a lot higher flow but how do I match a pump to that membrane? I am also wanting to use a 12V DC motor, I have a 3000watt pure sine wave charger/inverter so AC motor isn’t off the table but I would prefer not to convert from DC to AC because of the loss of watts in the conversion, the charger/inverter can convert ac to a 100amps dc so if I were to plug a Honda gen in as he shows in the video my converter can handle that load of a 1hp DC motor. I have a 360 watt solar system with MTTP charger, and I’m really trying to figure out which way I want to go, small motor small system that can run off solar or 1hp system that can fill all my needs for a few days with an hour of running a gen or engine or buy lithium battery’s and possibly be able to run every thing off the solar.
First let me say there’s lots of knowledgeable people around on this subject and I am certainly not one of them but I will tell you my thinking. For me priority was 12 volts at two amps per gallon with simple system (as you can see I did not quite make the two amps) TDS was an issue yet I found many people are satisfied with any TDS below 500. I sometimes do double pass to get into 100 TDS range but will tolerate 300 or below for general use. Quantity wise my daily needs are five to six. gallons. Almost twenty years ago I started the learning process with Village Marine little wonder rated at 200 GPD. On a good day full solar here in Caribbean maybe 7 GPH but for me the water was undrinkable hovering around 500 TDS . I was informed the only problem was the 36 inch membrane did not allow sufficient flow to give the TDS I expected. When it was time to change membrane rather then pay for for their in house size (36 inch)at less cost I purchased 21 membrane housing and membrane for less then their membrane alone and found my output dropped to 4 to 5 GPH and TDS consistently between 200 & 300. I was happy camper and added rain water to the mix. When pump failed after 17 years I decided to improve my system. Found Filmtec membrane specs stating the 21 x 2 1/2 requires flow rate of 300 GPD and 40 x 2 1/2 needs flow of 700. The one half gallon per minute gives me lots of overkill with 21 inch and just barely makes it with my 730 per day being sensitive to TDS I have decided to stay with 21 inch. I could go with 40 inch membrane maybe get output of 10 to 11 which would get my amps per gallon down but it may put me back into double pass mode for drinking water. One source that was great to talk to and did not try to sell me a thing also confirmed my logic was Rich at Cruise RO Water makers. He felt I would be happy with 3/4 GPM matched to one HP electric motor too one 40 inch membrane but its two much an energy hog for me so I will go along for the time being with what I have. Rich is selling systems so they must be bullet proof spec wise so will recommend the best all around. good guy to talk to I will include the URL to his site I think its where I found the specs on the various membranes. BTW I think it wasd his chart where he sells membranes that that I found the flow rates needed for each membrane size. His web url www.cruiserowaterandpower.com
Outstanding video. I have an older system with most of the components. Membrane pump etc. But it is old, installed by the prior owner and as of today had no clue how to fix it. So now I am going to basic. take your video and make mine looking like yours. Now I understand the system. Tell Me how it works and I me remember for a day. Show Me how it works and I will remember a whole lot longer" Thanks a million. S/V Adventurer where you in RioDulce Guatemala lately ?
We were not in Guatemala lately. Our boat is currently stored in Chiapas in Southern Mexico. We're traveling through Asia for the summer and then we'll be back down there to continue our way through Central America on the boat.
I just saw this video and it's a fantastic source. This is the way building a watermaker on my boat. I love using standard parts, they are easy replaceable. It's just being creative to put them together in a way it works, as you have demonstrated in the video. Two thumbs up, great job. Now you got me on this topic, I wonder if you already have a part list and kind of a diagram how to build the watermaker. I have a 33' sailboat and I certainly need to stretch the installation a little. My tanks are 44 gallon and with this watermaker I will consider having a fresh water shower now instead of saltwater. Great video. Thanks again
Hi Manfred! There is a parts list in the video description. Click on the "show more" tab below the video and scroll down. There you'll find the parts and pieces I used. Also, if you read through the comments, there is some pretty useful info from other people as well as different options for pumps, motors, etc... Good luck!
Fantastic presentation! I owe you a taco (or two, or three...) my friend! :) By now, I think and as you have indicated, there are few better components out there but the overall concept stays the same and you've made a brilliant setup.
You may want to look into waterco multi cyclone pre filters, they separate sediment using similar technology as Dyson vacuums do, they are used in multiple applications from pools, koi ponds, car washes, they have multiple sizes pressures and flow rates to match usage.
Thanks mate fantastic video lots of good information l start cruising in about a year so your channel is like gold for me keep up the awesome amazing work and when I out there l will get you a Toco
Awesome, beautiful, I love it! Thanks for thoroughness thoughtfulness and parts list. One question,at 19:00 for the flushing portion, are you sending the "bucket water" through the system, then out the thru hull? Or is it still going into the fresh water tank? I didn't see how it's not just cycling from the bucket... back into the bucket. I'm thinking it's going back to the sea, have I got that right? This is the most inspirational DIY watermaker I've seen. I feel confident, fair winds from grateful single hander!
With a 1.5 to 2hp 1725-1800 rpm motor and a 4" x40" pressure vessel, you might be able to hit 50-60gph with the pump I listed. 1.5hp is probably the sweet spot in terms of energy use to output. You need to hit at least 4.2 gpm brine discharge for a 4"x40" for membrane longevity, so two of the 2.5"x40" might be better, but you can do a 4"x40" membrane on 1.5 minimum.
My system (was on the boat when bought) does not have a booster pump. It goes directly from the through to hull prefilters to high pressure pump which is below the water line. Do I still need need a booster pump ? Great and very informative video.
Excellent, just absolutely brilliant! Do you think it is possible to have a hp connector point (tee piece with ball valve tap) between the hp pump and membranes, effectively to connect a hose for high pressure washing down muddy anchor chains or salt deposit sprays on deck? Many thanks and lots of love from South Africa!
It would be possible, however, it would be a salt water wash down coming through your T valve. If you are looking for a fresh water wash down, you would have to rig up something after the membranes. I have heard of people who have used the testing line for that sort of thing. Good luck!
I used my homemade system for 7 years...ran it off a DC motor which proved to be fortuitous when my windlass motor failed Thailand...I simply deployed my backup watermaker motor!
Hello. Thanks for the video. Beautiful, simple set up. Gathering the parts right now. Would you be able to tell me where to get the pressure relief valve? The one I got with my Cat pump is a blow off valve with no means of connecting a line to it. I would rather not have salt water flowing into my bilge if it does let go. Thanks.
Great video. Without having any knowledge about the systems other than what I’ve seen in videos or read. I wonder if setting up a system to Back flush the membranes and filters wouldn’t extend the life of both and extend the time between filter changes?
The only thing different with my system was a vacuum gauge after the filters to tell you when the filters need to be changed or cleaned. Also, never flush the membrane with chlorinated water, it will kill them.
Hi, Thanks for your video. I am willing to build one for my boat. I have a question about yours. You say that it produces 30GPH and you use two SW30-2540 membranes. According to the specs of this membrane, it can produce 700GPD (equal to 29 GPH). If you use two of these membranes shouldn't you produce 60GPH instead of 30? How come you produce only 30GPH if you have two membranes? Thanks
Nice build and explanation of the system. I am missing the pulsation damper on the high pressure (discharge) side of the triplex pump, to avoid pulsation stress and material fatigue. It will also provide smoother and more quiet operation of the HP pump.
I live in Phoenix AZ and the city water TDS varies by season but is generally 550 ppm TDS. I use an under the kitchen sink RO membrane (which works with chlorinated water) and get about 125 ppm TDS. So a big difference. Without the RO system I was constantly descaling our coffee machines.
My plan is for a similar system when I start to cruise but with a onboard diesel genset and a bigger motor to drive it and larger membranes. Also have a dedicated brine meter as well. Not sure I like the idea of the honda on board. Yes a lot of cruisers use it, and so would I if I couldn't put in a genset, but the storage of gasoline on board, the possibility of CO in the boat, and the noise of it, makes we lean against it. While making water with a norther lights 5kw genset, I will also be charging batteries and running a microwave convection oven. Also want to run a dive compressor and possible air conditioning at times, and the honda just won't live up to all that. But good system on the cheap. I Like fish taco's too....
They lasts years. I replaced the first set after 4 years, not because they needed to be changed, but because we were in a place where the membranes were easy to get, so I did it as preventative maintenance.
Watch your TDS and flow volume of output water. As the TDS goes up and the pressure is the same or goes up - that is the signal that your membranes are starting to "wear out". They can last 4 years and I know people who have made it 9 years with good maintenance. :)
Manufacturers give membranes a 7 year life, but that's assuming that they are run 24/7 and under high pressure/high recovery rate. If you're only using it for a few hours every few days then it will last ALMOST indefinitely if it's maintained well. I know of a solar powered land based system in Tanzania that has been running 8-10hrs a day for the last 9 years without any issues with membranes.
Amazing self build engineering, however, your focus seems to be primarily about desalinating and resultant TDS .. there are additional needed features I hope you have explored .. including adding an in line UV light to kill cryptosporidium, etc as well as considering a small multimedia filter to further reduce your micron filtration down to 1-3 microns and a electronic in line chlorinator that uses your salt level to create a drip conversion into sodium hypochlorite level between 1-3 ppm to further kill any stagnant propagation of mold, algae, etc in your retention tank along with some small recirculation turn over filtering so you produce soft safe pH balanced drinking water .. I didn't see you use any chemical solution testing for pH, acidity, calcium, etc either .. and I didn't see you explore the use of any acid either .. this may beyond your concerns but are are just my suggestions to plant seeds for thought. .. if you need more direct diagrams or sourcing components, feel free to comment back
IAwesome vid! I looked at the product sheet for the Sw30-2540. It says to keep the elements moist at all times after first use. At the end of the video you normally flush out the system and pass air through. Do you also flush out the water at the membrane?
When I flush the system, no air gets passed through. It's just a fresh water rinse which goes through the entire system, including the membranes. I make sure that when flushing, no air gets sucked up into the line.
Great video! Do you have an estimate on your water makers efficiency? In either electrical power draw (from your generator) per unit water produced or gallons of gas?
I don't know the efficiency in electrical power as far as watts per galllon, but I can tell you that we make roughly 110-120 gallons of water per gallon of gas in the generator.
An interesting idea would be to clean or backwash the system after every use with ozon-ated water (O3). That would kill of everything bad and is super simple to make. No chemicals!
What is the water clarity in Mexico where your pre filters need to be changed monthly? Where i live (Miami) we get 8 ft clarity in the bay at least a couple times a month in the winter and really often in summer. Wondering if thats good enough, or if I'd just be clogging pre filters constantly?
You should hope they do have lead. Without lead, they will quickly erode via micropores and be worthless. This is why modern faucets in homes seldom last 2-3 years. In my grandma's house her faucets lasted 50 years because they predated anti-lead mania. Amount of lead released from use is very de minimis. Also, lead is a large molecule and will not pass through RO membrane.
I think this is the best way to have a water maker. Theoretically, if you build it yourself, you will be able to fix it in the remotest places. Great idea.
That's the idea! It's come in handy to have a little knowledge not only on our boat, but to help other cruisers in remote locations with their water makers.
Nice, professional video. More thoughtful installation than most dealers do. I cruise Astoria to Alaska in a powerboat with a lot of room. Always in cold water, 55° or so. I made an inline water heater with NPT screw in elements and clamp on thermostat. At about 70-80°F you get the most water. I flush my whole system with fresh, starting with the boost pump. When I can, I'll anchor in a river. I use 4.5x20 (big blue) filters. They last about 4x as long. I filter 20/5/1 microns and GAC, CTO filters before the hp pump and a carbon filter after the pump. 20 & 5 micron are washable and go several months unless in a muddy river. Other filters last about a year. Original membranes. I have great tasting water and make it year round. No growth problems in the system, but have to use a small amount of chlorine in the tanks. No dock water in 7 years. I also have a Magnum 120/240v inverter. Buy most of my stuff on bebay.
I have no reason whatsoever to watch this video......i live in the middle of the states and dont even have a boat......not even sure how this came up in my video que. That being said i completely enjoyed watching your video!!! You sir are what utubers should all strive for by disseminating great usefully information in a very palatable non condescending way!!! Just had to snowblow 8" of snow in minnesota today (April 3rd...ugh!)and im thinking maybe i need a boat now after seeing how content you are in warm weather.....or maybe im gonna just go to taco bell.......for Tacos!!!!!!!
Awesome!!! Thanks Steve! And enjoy your 🌮🌮🌮!
How did you reply to Steve V3 minutes before he commented. I smell a rat....or is it pickelling juice?
You're supposed to be off grid for a start.
Anyway, maybe we landlubbers and couch sailors ought to be setting up shore based water makers too, in an effort to produce micro-plastic free drinking water.
Thanks for the walk-thru and tips. Its good, but its not Carling. (You yanks may need to google that). So no Tacos this time.
Drat...you must have switched the time-stamps while I was monologuing!
Steve V Well, there's no snow where I'm at right now, but also NO TACOS or TORTILLAS FOR 1000km. 😭I hate you both. 😛
Wilfred Darr .......its still snowing so im gonna be out moving snow again early morning thats whats ya get in Minnesnowta......but Taco Bell is open in my town till 1A.M. so ive still got time....in the summer we have a trolling taco truck around town too.....cant beat fresh street tacos on the sidewalk........id trade it all for a vagabond boat life tho....id imagine its a steep learning curve, sailing that is.......maybe i could just put pontoons on my motorhome........hmmmm
I really like the simple way you described this machine and your reasons for building it the way you did. The result is that you made a topic I always considered "complicated and mysterious" for the new cruiser into something that I understood easily and heck, I even had a eureka moment! Thank you for taking the time to make a great instructional video.
The simple way would be take a Honda 4000 PSI Pressure washer amd hook the high pressure line that would go to the spray wand, to a membrane. Easy. This has a bunch of nonsense.
Nice vid! I built a system like this when we were cruising the Caribbean. 1hp motor, brass cat pump, 2 2.5X40 membranes. The guy that showed me how to build it had been installing water makers for many years for boats, ships, and shore systems. He taught me that a 2 - 2.5X40 membrane system was good for about 40 Gph and that you should adjust the system pressure to get that output. Depending on water temp and salt levels you should use a higher or lower pressure to get the correct output. Running too high a flow rate could damage the membranes he said. Obviously you can not run pressure above the rating of hose or housing. I used my system like this for a few years without issue. Not saying it's right, just what I was taught.
He's right. It can be a little bit more technical than that and you could get a little more out of it at lower salinity, but then there's a distinct possibility of damaging your membranes, so by adjusting the pressure until you get a specified amount of product water you are saving potential membrane issues.
Great video! Spare hoses and cables can be zip tied right next to the hose or cable that’s in service. Just be mindful of the potential for chafe. It’s a good way to clear up those spare parts bins as coils of hose and cable take up a lot of space. Best of all if a failure occurs the new hose/cable is already run and can be swapped into service in a couple minutes.
I bought my boat after Hurricane Sandy from insurance. It's a 1982 Morgan OI 416 ketch. Other than a hole in the hull, the only real damage was to the high pressure pump and motor. The previous owner had removed them from the boat and they were damaged in his house. I have all the other parts and supplies. This video will help me get it running again. Thanks for the good tutorial.
Oh Baby, you da man. I have been agonizing over 5K for Rich Boren's R/O system. I already have two Honda 2200 watt gens. Had to buy them due to PG&E cutting off power last fall due to high winds causing terrible fires. I only have 25 gallon tank on my 30 foot trimaran...but i keep 2-3 water shower solar bags on the nets. When you have a woman on board it is almost mandatory that you have plenty of fresh water. Women do not dig camping style boating.
If i go the DC route then i have to upgrade to larger battery bank...like Lithium Iron Phosphate...2-3K, BMS systems, solar arrays, add cost add cost add cost....so, it makes sense to me to use a Honda and a DIY system. Thank you for such a good tutorial and mentoring. I really enjoyed your presentation. Also thanks for the parts list....
Excellent presentation Taco Boy!!! You show a simple solution to the complex problem of fresh water on board. Your output is really high compared to a lot of commercial systems for sale, fast output equals less noise in thee long run!! I really enjoy the show - keep on cruisin .
Stainless steel jic fitting for you high pressure. Jic fitting are for hydraulics rated for 3000 psi and they are easy to find
Thank you very much for a very comprehensive look at what's required for a do it yourself water maker.
That was awesome! Best watermaker video out there. If you have other maintenance videos in mind, like electrical problems or engine maintenance, I'm sure they would be of interest. Thanks!
Excellent presentation, I am just getting started with my project , hopefully I learn from all .
wow! thank you so much for taking the time to explain this!
One of the best water maker vids I've seen! Swagelok is the correct spelling of the fittings you referred to and they also can make up the hoses . I live in the Dallas area and we have a Swagelok rep in Plano so they are easy to locate.i am in the cng business and we use Swagelok on all of our fittings.
Thanks for the input Michael!
I would agree Michael, I have been looking off and on for youtube vids and This one is the best one I have found. Fair winds SV Adventurer
Hello... Just stumbled on to your channel while looking for DIY watermaker info, and wanted to thank you for explaining it. Subbed and will be following you. Ironically, my boat is also in Puget Sound, and I cruised Mexico in 2012 and 2015 after completing the HaHa, and am planning to do it again in 2020. Keep up the laughs and be safe.
Awesome! Hopefully we'll see you out here somewhere! Say hi to the PNW for us 😊
I was watching mostly out of academic curiosity but you mentioned something I had to comment on. You had said that you had bad luck with Parker fittings but great luck with Swagelok. I work with High Vacuum and Ultra High Vacuum systems and we tend to have the opposite results. I have a feeling that both of our failure modes are quite different. My takeaway from this is Parker for gas, and Swagelok for liquid. Honestly my preference between the two tends to stick to "who makes the fitting I need" because corrosion isn't much of a problem for me, but I will keep this information in mind when I am specifying parts.
Parker and Swagelok are both excellent.
Thank You! I've been looking for a do it yourself water maker and your the the first I've cone across. Excellent presentation!
Thanks David!
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing your design.
Great job on this video. At the price of commercial systems, you show a good alternative.
The tradeoff is requiring a little knowledge to operate it and keep it running properly, but in many ways, that's a good thing. Instead of the watermaker being a mysterious black box, having some knowledge abut how and why it works may increase overall system reliability, as long as multiple people have the knowledge.
An advantage of a commercial system may be in integration of the components and automation of the controls.
Well done!
Great video! I especially enjoyed the bit about how to clean out used pre-filters.
The vessels shown in the system are made by Composite Concepts
Great video. Very well done and an excellent system. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely great video. Thanks Big thumbs up.
Great video THANKS! I built small 12 volt system 1/4 hp 12 volt drawing 27 amps 21 inch membrane typical output 6 GPH 200 TDS. if voltage is higher 13.7 or above 8 GPH I could go to single 40 inch and be up around 10/12 GPH but TDS and membrane life will suffer. One thing I added to your basic design is put tee at salt water feed of high pressure pump and ran hose back to panel and mounted pressure gauge. this shows me the feed pressure at pump also when pressure drops I know its time to clean filters. I used cheap magnetic drive (Chinese 21 dollars )for boost pump and typically see 7 PSI at pump head until filters start to clog for me around 2 PSI. I am told you always want positive pressure at pump even with my small system.
Awesome! Thanks for the info!
sailaway01 what size pump are you running off your 1/4hp motor? .5gpm?
You got it .5 GPM cat stainless best match 1/3 hp with direct connect recommended but with 1/4 hp suggested it be run at 700 PSI maybe too much load at 800 but thats what i run it at. Battery voltage can make big difference in both output and TDS. I have 4% voltage drop with #4 wire so when batteries at 12.6 I am seeing 12 volts or less when I run engine with battery bank at 14.4 volts TDS can drop below 200 and product water output around 9 with healthy clean membrane and solid 14.4 but yes if voltage drops to mid to high 11 volt range at motor I can expect 5 GPH TDS 300 . In theory I should be OK Filmtec claims the 21inch membrane requires flow rate 300 GPD Maybe my flow rate drops with lower HP so my 730 GPD may be 600 GPD only guessing. If I were doing it again I would add another 100 watt solar panel to my already 400 watts and go with 1/3rd hp motor.
sailaway01 how do you decide what size membrane to what size pump, it looks like the 4in x21 has a lot higher flow but how do I match a pump to that membrane? I am also wanting to use a 12V DC motor, I have a 3000watt pure sine wave charger/inverter so AC motor isn’t off the table but I would prefer not to convert from DC to AC because of the loss of watts in the conversion, the charger/inverter can convert ac to a 100amps dc so if I were to plug a Honda gen in as he shows in the video my converter can handle that load of a 1hp DC motor. I have a 360 watt solar system with MTTP charger, and I’m really trying to figure out which way I want to go, small motor small system that can run off solar or 1hp system that can fill all my needs for a few days with an hour of running a gen or engine or buy lithium battery’s and possibly be able to run every thing off the solar.
First let me say there’s lots of knowledgeable people around on this subject and I am certainly not one of them but I will tell you my thinking. For me priority was 12 volts at two amps per gallon with simple system (as you can see I did not quite make the two amps) TDS was an issue yet I found many people are satisfied with any TDS below 500. I sometimes do double pass to get into 100 TDS range but will tolerate 300 or below for general use. Quantity wise my daily needs are five to six. gallons. Almost twenty years ago I started the learning process with Village Marine little wonder rated at 200 GPD. On a good day full solar here in Caribbean maybe 7 GPH but for me the water was undrinkable hovering around 500 TDS . I was informed the only problem was the 36 inch membrane did not allow sufficient flow to give the TDS I expected. When it was time to change membrane rather then pay for for their in house size (36 inch)at less cost I purchased 21 membrane housing and membrane for less then their membrane alone and found my output dropped to 4 to 5 GPH and TDS consistently between 200 & 300. I was happy camper and added rain water to the mix. When pump failed after 17 years I decided to improve my system. Found Filmtec membrane specs stating the 21 x 2 1/2 requires flow rate of 300 GPD and 40 x 2 1/2 needs flow of 700. The one half gallon per minute gives me lots of overkill with 21 inch and just barely makes it with my 730 per day being sensitive to TDS I have decided to stay with 21 inch. I could go with 40 inch membrane maybe get output of 10 to 11 which would get my amps per gallon down but it may put me back into double pass mode for drinking water. One source that was great to talk to and did not try to sell me a thing also confirmed my logic was Rich at Cruise RO Water makers. He felt I would be happy with 3/4 GPM matched to one HP electric motor too one 40 inch membrane but its two much an energy hog for me so I will go along for the time being with what I have. Rich is selling systems so they must be bullet proof spec wise so will recommend the best all around. good guy to talk to I will include the URL to his site I think its where I found the specs on the various membranes. BTW I think it wasd his chart where he sells membranes that that I found the flow rates needed for each membrane size.
His web url
www.cruiserowaterandpower.com
Outstanding video. I have an older system with most of the components. Membrane pump etc. But it is old, installed by the prior owner and as of today had no clue how to fix it. So now I am going to basic. take your video and make mine looking like yours. Now I understand the system. Tell Me how it works and I me remember for a day. Show Me how it works and I will remember a whole lot longer" Thanks a million. S/V Adventurer where you in RioDulce Guatemala lately ?
We were not in Guatemala lately. Our boat is currently stored in Chiapas in Southern Mexico. We're traveling through Asia for the summer and then we'll be back down there to continue our way through Central America on the boat.
Great video. Thank you. This is something I want to build for myself also. This video will help me for sure.
Best Video I have seen on watermaker. Thanks
Nice work. Thank you for such useful video on water makers.
Thanks for your excellent video! I will certainly save this and refer to it when I’m ready to install my water maker 👍
I just saw this video and it's a fantastic source. This is the way building a watermaker on my boat. I love using standard parts, they are easy replaceable. It's just being creative to put them together in a way it works, as you have demonstrated in the video. Two thumbs up, great job. Now you got me on this topic, I wonder if you already have a part list and kind of a diagram how to build the watermaker. I have a 33' sailboat and I certainly need to stretch the installation a little. My tanks are 44 gallon and with this watermaker I will consider having a fresh water shower now instead of saltwater. Great video. Thanks again
Hi Manfred! There is a parts list in the video description. Click on the "show more" tab below the video and scroll down. There you'll find the parts and pieces I used. Also, if you read through the comments, there is some pretty useful info from other people as well as different options for pumps, motors, etc... Good luck!
Wowwww 😲, thx a lot ! 😀, i'l planning to do mine, you're vidéo is very helpfull 👍. Thank you so much from France 🇫🇷 😉 !
Fantastic presentation! I owe you a taco (or two, or three...) my friend! :)
By now, I think and as you have indicated, there are few better components out there but the overall concept stays the same and you've made a brilliant setup.
Well done! Clear and thorough
You may want to look into waterco multi cyclone pre filters, they separate sediment using similar technology as Dyson vacuums do, they are used in multiple applications from pools, koi ponds, car washes, they have multiple sizes pressures and flow rates to match usage.
Thanks mate fantastic video lots of good information l start cruising in about a year so your channel is like gold for me keep up the awesome amazing work and when I out there l will get you a Toco
Good luck getting out there! Hopefully we'll cross paths at some point ⛵😊⛵😊
Tacos are AWESOME!
Wow that was an awesome video, I learned a lot...thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!! I truly appreciate it...
Thumbs up and saved. I just found your site and signed up. It'll take a while to view all of your back videos but that's the fun part.
Would a cheap harbor freight presure washer work for the pressure pump? They're only about $80 - to $100.
Awesome, beautiful, I love it! Thanks for thoroughness thoughtfulness and parts list. One question,at 19:00 for the flushing portion, are you sending the "bucket water" through the system, then out the thru hull? Or is it still going into the fresh water tank? I didn't see how it's not just cycling from the bucket... back into the bucket. I'm thinking it's going back to the sea, have I got that right? This is the most inspirational DIY watermaker I've seen. I feel confident, fair winds from grateful single hander!
The membranes I'm wondering about, longevity, easy replacement etc. But very good.
Excellent video !!!!!!
With a 1.5 to 2hp 1725-1800 rpm motor and a 4" x40" pressure vessel, you might be able to hit 50-60gph with the pump I listed. 1.5hp is probably the sweet spot in terms of energy use to output. You need to hit at least 4.2 gpm brine discharge for a 4"x40" for membrane longevity, so two of the 2.5"x40" might be better, but you can do a 4"x40" membrane on 1.5 minimum.
Great instructions. Thanks.
Great video!
I know its been a while since you initially installed, but can you give me an idea of what the system cost you back then?
Thanks
Dave
Very Helpful.... Thank You!!!
Outstanding presentation TY!!
I like tacos too. Neat system.
Nomad. You. like enchiladas
Thanks, for posting this Informative and well made video👍
My system (was on the boat when bought) does not have a booster pump. It goes directly from the through to hull prefilters to high pressure pump which is below the water line. Do I still need need a booster pump ? Great and very informative video.
Can this System be used in home near the Sea -just as it do on Boats?
The same concept can be used in any application to make water from salt water so yes you could use it in a home
Great video!
Excellent Video! Thank you!
Excellent, just absolutely brilliant! Do you think it is possible to have a hp connector point (tee piece with ball valve tap) between the hp pump and membranes, effectively to connect a hose for high pressure washing down muddy anchor chains or salt deposit sprays on deck? Many thanks and lots of love from South Africa!
It would be possible, however, it would be a salt water wash down coming through your T valve. If you are looking for a fresh water wash down, you would have to rig up something after the membranes. I have heard of people who have used the testing line for that sort of thing. Good luck!
Excellent video.
Great video, I don't have a boat but enjoyed watching you explanation on how to provide water on board
I used my homemade system for 7 years...ran it off a DC motor which proved to be fortuitous when my windlass motor failed Thailand...I simply deployed my backup watermaker motor!
Great information, thanks a lot. Richard
Excellent 👊👊💥
Hello. Thanks for the video. Beautiful, simple set up. Gathering the parts right now. Would you be able to tell me where to get the pressure relief valve? The one I got with my Cat pump is a blow off valve with no means of connecting a line to it. I would rather not have salt water flowing into my bilge if it does let go. Thanks.
General Pump- who also make high pressure piston pumps stocks the SS316 pop safety valve
Great video. Without having any knowledge about the systems other than what I’ve seen in videos or read. I wonder if setting up a system to Back flush the membranes and filters wouldn’t extend the life of both and extend the time between filter changes?
Great video ! Thanks for the demonstration !
very good video, thanks
The only thing different with my system was a vacuum gauge after the filters to tell you when the filters need to be changed or cleaned. Also, never flush the membrane with chlorinated water, it will kill them.
Installed reverse osmosis systems for years, I would be building a very similar system if I was a liveaboard. Great video covering all the basics.
thanks a lot
Awesome!
great vid, thanks.
Could you use a high-pressure pump from a water blaster? Chaep and availalbe world wide!
Possiblity, but I'm not sure how it would hold up in running salt water through it.
true
A Karcher high pressure cleaner will give you a couple of years service.
Hi, Thanks for your video. I am willing to build one for my boat. I have a question about yours. You say that it produces 30GPH and you use two SW30-2540 membranes. According to the specs of this membrane, it can produce 700GPD (equal to 29 GPH). If you use two of these membranes shouldn't you produce 60GPH instead of 30? How come you produce only 30GPH if you have two membranes? Thanks
Great video! Thanks!
great video, thanks
All your high pressure hoses and fittings. Either place ...interline brands...masthead hosboss. Both in Jax Fl
ss swagelock is great for Propane lines as well
Great Video.... Cost effective and equally as good as the 5- 8000 Euro counterparts which shows just how much Amateur Sailers are ripped off. Thanks.
Very informative. Your channel should have a LOT more subs!
Yes, it should, but, usually and sadly the bikini and a$$ videos have more subs, as we know it.
@@bizim_eller agreed
What kind of filter system would you use on the Great Lakes?
Hi, great video, what type of cat pump do you use ?
Outstanding......
That tv is a good mirror, took alot of working out 😂
Nice build and explanation of the system. I am missing the pulsation damper on the high pressure (discharge) side of the triplex pump, to avoid pulsation stress and material fatigue. It will also provide smoother and more quiet operation of the HP pump.
At 500 PPM Calcium makes little icebergs on the surface of the coffee, but otherwise Thank Zou for fantastic video
The WHO has standards for the TDS and anything below 500ppm is considered excellent quality water
I live in Phoenix AZ and the city water TDS varies by season but is generally 550 ppm TDS. I use an under the kitchen sink RO membrane (which works with chlorinated water) and get about 125 ppm TDS. So a big difference. Without the RO system I was constantly descaling our coffee machines.
My plan is for a similar system when I start to cruise but with a onboard diesel genset and a bigger motor to drive it and larger membranes. Also have a dedicated brine meter as well. Not sure I like the idea of the honda on board. Yes a lot of cruisers use it, and so would I if I couldn't put in a genset, but the storage of gasoline on board, the possibility of CO in the boat, and the noise of it, makes we lean against it. While making water with a norther lights 5kw genset, I will also be charging batteries and running a microwave convection oven. Also want to run a dive compressor and possible air conditioning at times, and the honda just won't live up to all that. But good system on the cheap. I Like fish taco's too....
Bob Fomenko
So you don’t plan on having a dinghy and outboard...gonna miss out on a lot.
Hi, is there a specific type of ro membrane i need for sea water?
Hi there, thanks for the great video.How much pickling solution do you use?
10 Tablespoons for 5 gallons or alternately you can use Propylene Glycol in a 50/50 mix with water. !!!!
NOT Ethylene Glycol which is very toxic!!!!
Thanks man Interesting vid.
How long does an R/O membrane typically last running that high volume of water through it? 6 months, one year? Just wondering.
They lasts years. I replaced the first set after 4 years, not because they needed to be changed, but because we were in a place where the membranes were easy to get, so I did it as preventative maintenance.
Watch your TDS and flow volume of output water. As the TDS goes up and the pressure is the same or goes up - that is the signal that your membranes are starting to "wear out". They can last 4 years and I know people who have made it 9 years with good maintenance. :)
Manufacturers give membranes a 7 year life, but that's assuming that they are run 24/7 and under high pressure/high recovery rate. If you're only using it for a few hours every few days then it will last ALMOST indefinitely if it's maintained well.
I know of a solar powered land based system in Tanzania that has been running 8-10hrs a day for the last 9 years without any issues with membranes.
A few of the parts are not available on Amazon!
Swage Lock fittings are available at most Hydraulics suppliers
Amazing self build engineering, however, your focus seems to be primarily about desalinating and resultant TDS .. there are additional needed features I hope you have explored .. including adding an in line UV light to kill cryptosporidium, etc as well as considering a small multimedia filter to further reduce your micron filtration down to 1-3 microns and a electronic in line chlorinator that uses your salt level to create a drip conversion into sodium hypochlorite level between 1-3 ppm to further kill any stagnant propagation of mold, algae, etc in your retention tank along with some small recirculation turn over filtering so you produce soft safe pH balanced drinking water .. I didn't see you use any chemical solution testing for pH, acidity, calcium, etc either .. and I didn't see you explore the use of any acid either .. this may beyond your concerns but are are just my suggestions to plant seeds for thought. .. if you need more direct diagrams or sourcing components, feel free to comment back
Excellent video and info!! Thanks for sharing! 😍⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
IAwesome vid! I looked at the product sheet for the Sw30-2540. It says to keep the elements moist at all times after first use. At the end of the video you normally flush out the system and pass air through. Do you also flush out the water at the membrane?
When I flush the system, no air gets passed through. It's just a fresh water rinse which goes through the entire system, including the membranes. I make sure that when flushing, no air gets sucked up into the line.
Great video! Do you have an estimate on your water makers efficiency? In either electrical power draw (from your generator) per unit water produced or gallons of gas?
I don't know the efficiency in electrical power as far as watts per galllon, but I can tell you that we make roughly 110-120 gallons of water per gallon of gas in the generator.
An interesting idea would be to clean or backwash the system after every use with ozon-ated water (O3). That would kill of everything bad and is super simple to make. No chemicals!
Interesting idea, now I need to investigate how to make ozone-ated water
Do you flush the membranes in the same direction or do you reverse flush them?
What is the water clarity in Mexico where your pre filters need to be changed monthly? Where i live (Miami) we get 8 ft clarity in the bay at least a couple times a month in the winter and really often in summer. Wondering if thats good enough, or if I'd just be clogging pre filters constantly?
Where did you get those red switches?
At fisheries supply in Seattle. I can't find them on the website anymore. Sorry :-(
Excellent video!
Hope those brass ball valves are lead free for potable water.
You should hope they do have lead. Without lead, they will quickly erode via micropores and be worthless. This is why modern faucets in homes seldom last 2-3 years. In my grandma's house her faucets lasted 50 years because they predated anti-lead mania. Amount of lead released from use is very de minimis. Also, lead is a large molecule and will not pass through RO membrane.