1. recommended for holes less than 0.8mm (0.032 of an inch) 2. Heat is required to activate the silicates & drive moisture from them, thus leaving the crystals that will plug the hole/crack.
That’s a lot to expect a stop leak product to fill a hole that size. Good grief that wasn’t even a fair test, plus the fact the coolant is supposed to be hot. I would say the test is a failure, not the stop leak.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO , it is NOT HEATED at 200 Degrees F, your experiment is totally misleading,I don’t see any steam coming from the leak, therefore YOUR DEMOSTRACIÓN is INACCURATE..!
Hole way too big for stop leak to fix, and think about it, if it could stop such a massive leak, it would also clog up your cooling system, the radiator and heater core have small narrow tubes.
Nice experiment but don't forget to read the inductions. Your next try should include a way to heat the coolant to the correct temperature and use a realistic leak.
I feel like these products are mainly used for when the plastic lids start leaking very slightly , But yeah, this needs to be in a car engine at operational temps 180-210º under pressure and going.
This stuff works. I had a leak in My civics radiator and I added the silver aluminum mix and presto! It’s genius. I have a new radiator in the mail but I’m not installing it until the radiator starts leaking again. Probably not the best idea though. Edit: use the silver stuff! It’s better and it’s also under 10$
In the time it takes to do this you can replace the radiator or a hose with the hole in it. Radiators are not hard to replace, they seem intimidating to people but they're very easy to install. You literally remove the hose & few bolts & lift, then put new radiator in & reattach hoses & done. Make sure you flush radiator with a cleaner before you add coolant, so you catch any debris that was inside radiator during shipping & then after it's flushed & clean, add coolant & done.
That used to be the case, but most of your newer cars and especially some foreign models today, its not at all easy to remove radiators, sometimes half the front end needs removed, or they can also come out the bottom of the car, not to mention some models need special tools to remove oil lines from them too. FYI 😎👍
I'm a little confused by everyone's comments about how the coolant needs to be hot to work. I just bought some for my radiator, it says right on the bottle that it should be poured in a cool radiator, so that's what I did. I also used ice cold well water from my hose as coolant and it stopped the leak within a couple of minutes and it was a pretty decent leak. My guess is that they tell you to put it in a cool radiator for safety and then it won't start working until the heat and pressure builds up?
That’s exactly right. Taking the cap off of a hot radiator is really dangerous. Pour it in cold, drive or let it run the proper amount of time to heat it up. I’ve used it in my youth when car fixes were not priority and it worked great. Honestly probably longer than it should have.
You let it run for 1 minute, 20 seconds and then thought it didn't work. When it literally says on the bottle to wait at least 15-30 minutes at an idle. Of course it's not gonna work after less than 1.5 minutes.
Honestly if you got a leak pouring out that bad you got to give it up ans go to the mechanic and get new radiator. But sometimes it does take a few bottles to stop it or extremely slow it down
It wasn't meant to plug a cold garden hose . Used this exact stuff in my 2003 Ford Explorer 4.0 coolant radiator. Had a leak that would start when it got to about 5 psi , or 150 degrees . Right were the plastic tank is crimped to the aluminum radiator. It worked well for two months when I replaced the radiator . It even flushed out without leaving residue in the engine. One of the few truly safe and effective products for this very common type of leak . Just about every company that produces additives like this has a similar product . Heat , pressure , small leaks. Read the bottle 🤦
My dad's car was a Cadillac Eldorado, he loved that car. He can't drive anymore, so he gave it to my older brother with about 80k miles on the odometer. It didn't even last a year before it was sold for scrap. Anyways, I bought a car with stop leak in it, and didn't know. It was a 2002 Chevy Impala, which are notorious for blowing intake gaskets. Instead of replacing the intake gasket, the guy that sold it to me put stop leak in it. The heater core and radiator could clog about once a year for a few years, then it would clog just once every 2 or 3 years. Finally from years of intermittent overheating, it blew the heads. I got a set of heads from a junk yard for $50, and while I had the engine part I used a pressure washer to force out everything that was still in the water jackets, plus I replaced the hard lines, heater core, radiator, rubber hoses, and water pump, and it never clogged or overheated again. It was funny for a while because the heater core would start to clog, and if I floored it and got the RPM really high, you could hear this gush of water from under the dash, it would sound like someone flushing a toilet and then I would have heat for a minute or two, and then it would go away so I would have to repeat.
John Davis you should have done a back flush on it and put some rust removing stuff inside of it to get rid of some stuff that might be clogging it. Then tried to burp the system cuz every time u replace a cooling system part you should because that allows air to get in that’s what the flood of coolant under the dash was you heard. I’m currently struggling with the overheating shit and researching all these videos. Since it’s a closed system there shouldn’t be air in it I replaced the thermostat and Ik that it didn’t get burped so hopefully it fixes my issue but there may be a leak somewhere only one way to find out if. In a few hours when places open up I’m going to buy all this stuff I need I hope it works😂😂
I have a 1992 Cadillac Eldorado it has a slow leakage but it’s fine just keep filling it up with antifreeze and this product in the video above doesn’t work at all I used it on my 1996 Ford Taurus and it messed up my car badly
@@kimberlywright4988 which one, in or out? This product does not work with rubber hoses, only with aluminum pipes. Please make your question clearer so that I can be helpful.
4 plus gallons of water/coolant, 1 hole bottle of stop leak and still it leaked like a sieve. the original hole was huge (pencil lead diameter) maybe that had a lot to do with it.
@@sonnyesqueda1284 I believe it does.. this is something I’m doing to my car with a very slow drip leak from cracked radiator tubes due to a bottoming out. I don’t think anything would work against a steady flow leak like this.
As many have said, you missed a very crucial part of cooling an engine… the heat. You need to let the engine idle at operating temp for at least 15 minutes to allow for the formula to expand and work. There is a video of someone doing the same experiment, but they used a heating system to gradually increase the temp of the coolant… and voila it actually worked to stop the few leaks on the radiator.
This stop leak is supposed to be added to a cold radiator and needs to be heated to work properly. Testing it with cold fluid isn't the best test. And it also needs to cool down e.g. 48 hours to cure around the hole or crack. To make sure this stop leak works properly, remember to use with new clean fluids. Do not put it in old/dirty coolant. Hope this helps some people
I thought the coolant has to be heated up for this to work? It works fine on the car that I am using. It just a temporary fix to get you by. The Bar Leak last for 8 months before I had to reapply.
Major problem with your test is radiator systems are under pressure ... usually around 10 or 15 pounds. Your experiment was not a closed pressurized heated system.
If this stuff could stop a leak that sized, it would also plug up those little tubes you have. I'm just trying to see this stuff get fuzzy like what's coming out of my buddy's radiator after using this stuff. It looks like an animal died inside the rad!
It Hass to be like boiling temperature for the stuff to be working. Like they have a new brand with actual pellets In it, oh they are solid but when you pour them in the boiling coolant they dissolve and act like a JB Weld through your system. You can’t use cold water lol
You plugged the radiator up. Look at your return hose there was no flow. Your stop leak plugged off the port so it couldn't plug last hose pressure to great.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Test with a much smaller hole. Say, one that leaks 1 gal / hr. while pumping. That might be more typical for many leaks. Fast enough to overheat your car pretty soon, but not that fast.
It looked like you're pouring in some pretty nasty looking coolant. Maybe just full of the stop leak. I do realize that coolant system leaks can be expensive depending on the circumstance. But I also assume that stop leak could cause more damage than good in the long run.
There's people that put in stop leak and years later it holds. Tho if your engines to far gone it most likely won't work at all and you know it's a much bigger issue that needs proper repairs.
Man if i have a leak that bad im not using stop leak. I think its better for the pin leaks and ones where you can smell it but cant see it but some residue.
Almost ALL of these coolant stop leak's include Sodium Silicate as their main active ingridient that works to stop your leak. The issue with your test is 2 parts/reasons why it is soomed for failure from the beginning. Issue #1-Sodium Silicate in these products works by the introduction of heat from your engine. this is why they all say to run your vehicle for atleast 20 minutes at idle with the heater on high (so it doesnt clog your heater core). Issue #2- The leak that you are trying to simulate stopping is one huge gaping hole. looks like the dang radiator was shot from 2 ft away with a 12 gauge slug. Theres no way ANY product would stop this "leak". Try simulating a real world situation, where the cylinder head is maybe warped after overheating and now off by 0.05" or theres a small head gasket leak. To assume this product would stop a leak the size of the grand canyone is flat out ridiculous IMHO.
Actually just used it like 15 minutes ago. Seems to have put a stop on my head gasket leak for now. Great stuff for 10 bucks. Beats pulling the motor apart
My car engine had a one little hole like 1mm in the freeze plug, used Abro powder stop leak and it fixed the leak for long period till freeze plugs replaced.
i would have stopped and started the pump so it could bond.... seems like the continues squirt stopped it from sealing..... if you had a cut on your hand after a few mins it would stop, if it was squirting out you'd goto AandE... lol
I just used it and found out that half a bottle didn't work, even though I ran the engine hot but I could see a difference as it stopped leaking for a while before the coolant flowed out again. It was a stop and go thingy. Then I stopped the engine, let it cool down some 15 minutes and poured the rest of the Bars into the radiator and ran the engine. Revved it a few times and lo!, the coolant stopped leaking!!! So, it works but maybe my radiator had smaller holes. 😁
That will not work .. test it in a car not no tubes look how much he have to use to even see just save your money and get k seal coolant permanent repair or just get it fix
Well 2 things.. the highest the pressure gets in a cooling system is around what 15-20psi.. i dunno what pressure that pump you used could generate but still the colling system gets hot as fuck.. maybe if you heated up the whole system because some of that stuff activates with heat and pressure. Some reacts with heat differential like its all fluid while cool or hot but when it goes from hot to a cool place like through a hole, the stuff hardens and collects at the hole…
Does anyone know if you can use Bars Stop Leak multiple times? It was applied to my vehicle and it stopped the white smoke immediately…. However that lasted a few hundred miles and now the white smoke started to return. I just need the get the car up and running for another week so I can get it in the shop for repair. Thanks I’m advance to anyone who can help with this question!
Not only did it not get heated.. Was that oatmeal at the end? 😆.. Or what drained and reclaimed? That doesn't happen in the real world. It would also be nice to see everything going on.. Not just a staged area. Wow..
sorry bro but that would be a leak where it would be better to replace the entire radiator. That was no small leak and you were not bringing the liquid up to steaming levels. Bad test . 1 star
Share your experience with stop leak good or bad.
did you consider that mabey didnt work cause the water wasnt hot
@@brokenlee5922 no need.... those holes are too big.
Stop leak is made for cracks or leaking gaskets... those are under 1mm
@@brokenlee5922 that's right the water must be hot to make the seal cure
The Bar's gunked up my thermostat which took some diagnosing to find. Won't go down that road again.
@@brokenlee5922 I heated it as I show in other videos
1. recommended for holes less than 0.8mm (0.032 of an inch)
2. Heat is required to activate the silicates & drive moisture from them, thus leaving the crystals that will plug the hole/crack.
That’s a lot to expect a stop leak product to fill a hole that size. Good grief that wasn’t even a fair test, plus the fact the coolant is supposed to be hot. I would say the test is a failure, not the stop leak.
It needs to be at least 150 to 200 degrees to work!! It well never going to work with cold water lol
Its heated as I have shown in other videos
Exactly
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO , it is NOT HEATED at 200 Degrees F, your experiment is totally misleading,I don’t see any steam coming from the leak, therefore YOUR DEMOSTRACIÓN is INACCURATE..!
If you have a leak that big just put a damn plug in it 😆
I also think so... It need heat to work...the heat will make the sealing work....
Hole way too big for stop leak to fix, and think about it, if it could stop such a massive leak, it would also clog up your cooling system, the radiator and heater core have small narrow tubes.
it works i got
stuck in the middle
of the road put two bottles in and boom drove 1200miles south and it still ran for 2 more years
Nice experiment but don't forget to read the inductions. Your next try should include a way to heat the coolant to the correct temperature and use a realistic leak.
The accent should clear up anyone who thought he read the directions and used it properly.
Radiators get bullet holes... 🤣
I feel like these products are mainly used for when the plastic lids start leaking very slightly , But yeah, this needs to be in a car engine at operational temps 180-210º under pressure and going.
My coolant radiator thermostat keeps going to the middle fast
This stuff works. I had a leak in My civics radiator and I added the silver aluminum mix and presto! It’s genius. I have a new radiator in the mail but I’m not installing it until the radiator starts leaking again. Probably not the best idea though. Edit: use the silver stuff! It’s better and it’s also under 10$
What did u due in your process of putting it in ?
Hi, did the radiator start leaking again?
I don't doubt that it probably worked, but these particles seem really bad for the pump.
@@ila83 probably didn’t do it.
And the leak flows happily ever after~~
In the time it takes to do this you can replace the radiator or a hose with the hole in it. Radiators are not hard to replace, they seem intimidating to people but they're very easy to install. You literally remove the hose & few bolts & lift, then put new radiator in & reattach hoses & done. Make sure you flush radiator with a cleaner before you add coolant, so you catch any debris that was inside radiator during shipping & then after it's flushed & clean, add coolant & done.
That used to be the case, but most of your newer cars and especially some foreign models today, its not at all easy to remove radiators, sometimes half the front end needs removed, or they can also come out the bottom of the car, not to mention some models need special tools to remove oil lines from them too. FYI 😎👍
Dont you have to use hot water or antifreeze I thought that stuff worked when the engine got hot
I did heat the water at one point but during the video the thermostat worked loose.
Ok this explains why it didn't work on a leaking kitchen cold water pipe... But after a few glasses of water i never pissed again.
I'm a little confused by everyone's comments about how the coolant needs to be hot to work. I just bought some for my radiator, it says right on the bottle that it should be poured in a cool radiator, so that's what I did. I also used ice cold well water from my hose as coolant and it stopped the leak within a couple of minutes and it was a pretty decent leak.
My guess is that they tell you to put it in a cool radiator for safety and then it won't start working until the heat and pressure builds up?
That’s exactly right. Taking the cap off of a hot radiator is really dangerous. Pour it in cold, drive or let it run the proper amount of time to heat it up. I’ve used it in my youth when car fixes were not priority and it worked great. Honestly probably longer than it should have.
You let it run for 1 minute, 20 seconds and then thought it didn't work. When it literally says on the bottle to wait at least 15-30 minutes at an idle. Of course it's not gonna work after less than 1.5 minutes.
Might work if you clamp the hole mostly shut first so it can build up there. Also as other people have said it needs to be heated.
That wasn’t a leak more like a Continuous squirt
Yes it was bad check all the stop leak videos to see what works best.
That's just a hose fitting with no hose attached 😅
Honestly if you got a leak pouring out that bad you got to give it up ans go to the mechanic and get new radiator. But sometimes it does take a few bottles to stop it or extremely slow it down
It wasn't meant to plug a cold garden hose . Used this exact stuff in my 2003 Ford Explorer 4.0 coolant radiator. Had a leak that would start when it got to about 5 psi , or 150 degrees . Right were the plastic tank is crimped to the aluminum radiator. It worked well for two months when I replaced the radiator . It even flushed out without leaving residue in the engine. One of the few truly safe and effective products for this very common type of leak . Just about every company that produces additives like this has a similar product . Heat , pressure , small leaks. Read the bottle 🤦
In my opinion this is an accurate display of most stop leaks, they don't permanently fix radiator problems , and should only be used in emergencies.
I used a radiator stop leak before. It worked the first shot. I was impressed. Although my head gasket was blown too... 2000 Cadillac Eldorado 😂
My dad's car was a Cadillac Eldorado, he loved that car. He can't drive anymore, so he gave it to my older brother with about 80k miles on the odometer. It didn't even last a year before it was sold for scrap. Anyways, I bought a car with stop leak in it, and didn't know. It was a 2002 Chevy Impala, which are notorious for blowing intake gaskets. Instead of replacing the intake gasket, the guy that sold it to me put stop leak in it. The heater core and radiator could clog about once a year for a few years, then it would clog just once every 2 or 3 years. Finally from years of intermittent overheating, it blew the heads. I got a set of heads from a junk yard for $50, and while I had the engine part I used a pressure washer to force out everything that was still in the water jackets, plus I replaced the hard lines, heater core, radiator, rubber hoses, and water pump, and it never clogged or overheated again. It was funny for a while because the heater core would start to clog, and if I floored it and got the RPM really high, you could hear this gush of water from under the dash, it would sound like someone flushing a toilet and then I would have heat for a minute or two, and then it would go away so I would have to repeat.
John Davis you should have done a back flush on it and put some rust removing stuff inside of it to get rid of some stuff that might be clogging it. Then tried to burp the system cuz every time u replace a cooling system part you should because that allows air to get in that’s what the flood of coolant under the dash was you heard. I’m currently struggling with the overheating shit and researching all these videos. Since it’s a closed system there shouldn’t be air in it I replaced the thermostat and Ik that it didn’t get burped so hopefully it fixes my issue but there may be a leak somewhere only one way to find out if. In a few hours when places open up I’m going to buy all this stuff I need I hope it works😂😂
I have a 1992 Cadillac Eldorado it has a slow leakage but it’s fine just keep filling it up with antifreeze and this product in the video above doesn’t work at all I used it on my 1996 Ford Taurus and it messed up my car badly
it also stops your Radiator from working.
Steffen I’ve seen it go both ways.
You see Ivan, if clog radiator up to point where no flow, radiator cannot leak.
No Steffen it actually works theres alota science in most products
WTF DID I JUST WATCH LMAO
Great product I have used it for the inner heater radiator and does the work perfectly.
Hi can you tell me about the leak in the anti freeze container and the hose connected to it
@@kimberlywright4988 which one, in or out? This product does not work with rubber hoses, only with aluminum pipes. Please make your question clearer so that I can be helpful.
4 plus gallons of water/coolant, 1 hole bottle of stop leak and still it leaked like a sieve.
the original hole was huge (pencil lead diameter) maybe that had a lot to do with it.
I believe you're right. Bars worked to stop the leaks in my car's radiator. Probably 1mm holes. 😁
With a hole that big just plug it . Or use a piece of rolled up duct tape. The metal foil kind . I actually did that and it worked for 200 miles 🤓
That stuffs meant to swell up old rubber o rings and gaskets not holes lol
It works well for me and save me tons of money
Really, I need one of those ASAP
Does it matter how big the Crack or hole is?
@@sonnyesqueda1284 I believe it does.. this is something I’m doing to my car with a very slow drip leak from cracked radiator tubes due to a bottoming out. I don’t think anything would work against a steady flow leak like this.
As many have said, you missed a very crucial part of cooling an engine… the heat. You need to let the engine idle at operating temp for at least 15 minutes to allow for the formula to expand and work. There is a video of someone doing the same experiment, but they used a heating system to gradually increase the temp of the coolant… and voila it actually worked to stop the few leaks on the radiator.
If that were a car radiator, you'd have one hell of a leak.
Worked for me today on a 2000 Nissan Xterra water pump leak.
I used it in a 20yrs old Volvo and it lasted for THREE years
This stop leak is supposed to be added to a cold radiator and needs to be heated to work properly. Testing it with cold fluid isn't the best test. And it also needs to cool down e.g. 48 hours to cure around the hole or crack. To make sure this stop leak works properly, remember to use with new clean fluids. Do not put it in old/dirty coolant. Hope this helps some people
Engine gotta be at running temperature
would that work just for the radiator?... cause maybe I have the leak in a unreachable part of the hose
Can't wait to try it with Barr's stop leak.
Mine is leaking out of a freeze plug .. will that help out my situation? Working with a 2011 grand marquis
I think you should give it longer off-time in order to let the material accumulate in the cracks
It needs heat to cure
I thought the coolant has to be heated up for this to work? It works fine on the car that I am using. It just a temporary fix to get you by. The Bar Leak last for 8 months before I had to reapply.
Major problem with your test is radiator systems are under pressure ... usually around 10 or 15 pounds. Your experiment was not a closed pressurized heated system.
Did he do kseal head gasket repair?
Ya I was thinking same. There’s no heat to make a reaction
All the hoopdies ive owned it always worked good...there is no way he heated it up enough..also those are pretty serious leaks
Can this be used for carbon steel pipe? And process with 180 degrees
Does this stuff also stop a small leak in the water pump as well??
How to plug your heater core for only 10.99 😂
if it works then the outlet of the radiator will be seal as well
Meaning ???
Maybe its work in hot water only ?? 🤔🤔🤔
Had a hole in my radiator the size of a dime. This stopleak sealed it in 4 mins with the engine running i used 1 bottle i. 4 gallons of 50/50
Do you really recommend it.
If this stuff could stop a leak that sized, it would also plug up those little tubes you have. I'm just trying to see this stuff get fuzzy like what's coming out of my buddy's radiator after using this stuff. It looks like an animal died inside the rad!
was the coolant over 105 degree. if it was heated to 105 or higher it mite work faster. not 100 present sure if this is true. (110 % it's true)
If you have a leak like this one dont use that , just replace the part , this is just for small leaks
Needs heat to heat chemical. Then it hardens when it touches oxygen.
Fun video though thanks!
It Hass to be like boiling temperature for the stuff to be working. Like they have a new brand with actual pellets In it, oh they are solid but when you pour them in the boiling coolant they dissolve and act like a JB Weld through your system. You can’t use cold water lol
Id like to see you do this with Holts Radweld (Subaru coolant conditioner in usa)
I used K-Seal on my car several years ago. The car has not had a coolant leak since.
So is the thermostat sensitive to this stuff ?
You plugged the radiator up. Look at your return hose there was no flow. Your stop leak plugged off the port so it couldn't plug last hose pressure to great.
isnt it supposed to be heated?
I think the test hole was too big. If it works at all, it would be for smaller holes. But kudos for trying to test it.
Yes i totally agree. How can we improve?
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Test with a much smaller hole. Say, one that leaks 1 gal / hr. while pumping. That might be more typical for many leaks. Fast enough to overheat your car pretty soon, but not that fast.
It looked like you're pouring in some pretty nasty looking coolant. Maybe just full of the stop leak. I do realize that coolant system leaks can be expensive depending on the circumstance. But I also assume that stop leak could cause more damage than good in the long run.
There's people that put in stop leak and years later it holds. Tho if your engines to far gone it most likely won't work at all and you know it's a much bigger issue that needs proper repairs.
Auto repair shop trying to instill no confidence in stop leak products, simple as lmao
Man if i have a leak that bad im not using stop leak. I think its better for the pin leaks and ones where you can smell it but cant see it but some residue.
On the label run car until hot where is the engine ?
Please test mannol products
Only thing stopping that leak is pouring concrete in your radiator
How about a 303 aerospace on rubber vs no treatment
your dad said water the lawn! not antifreeze it...DAMN MAN!
Xenum Restop radiator anti-leak works much better.
I would like to try it.
That fling hole is like a dime size hole you serious ...
How to plug coolant passages, destroy heater core and cause severe internal failures should be name
Almost ALL of these coolant stop leak's include Sodium Silicate as their main active ingridient that works to stop your leak. The issue with your test is 2 parts/reasons why it is soomed for failure from the beginning. Issue #1-Sodium Silicate in these products works by the introduction of heat from your engine. this is why they all say to run your vehicle for atleast 20 minutes at idle with the heater on high (so it doesnt clog your heater core). Issue #2- The leak that you are trying to simulate stopping is one huge gaping hole. looks like the dang radiator was shot from 2 ft away with a 12 gauge slug. Theres no way ANY product would stop this "leak". Try simulating a real world situation, where the cylinder head is maybe warped after overheating and now off by 0.05" or theres a small head gasket leak. To assume this product would stop a leak the size of the grand canyone is flat out ridiculous IMHO.
Actually just used it like 15 minutes ago. Seems to have put a stop on my head gasket leak for now. Great stuff for 10 bucks. Beats pulling the motor apart
Hey, I don’t mean to be that guy but where’s the coolant going?
My car engine had a one little hole like 1mm in the freeze plug, used Abro powder stop leak and it fixed the leak for long period till freeze plugs replaced.
It doesn't fix stuff but it WILL get you through to a part store
hole is hole
bro, you've got the most annoying music 😂
If its a human then probably got brain tumar and time waster
The eater need to be hot like the radiator for the sealant to work, it needs heat to activate
I heat it and show in videos, what can we try next?
BlueDevil Radiator & Block Sealer
Stop leak can be useful at times.
Thanks for sharing
How many hours? There would be a huge puddle or trails as you drive, I would say fail
The coolant need to circlelate around for it to work
Nice set up....but.....no heat isn't gonna work.....
Why does the bottle say make sure engine is cold
i would have stopped and started the pump so it could bond.... seems like the continues squirt stopped it from sealing..... if you had a cut on your hand after a few mins it would stop, if it was squirting out you'd goto AandE... lol
I just used it and found out that half a bottle didn't work, even though I ran the engine hot but I could see a difference as it stopped leaking for a while before the coolant flowed out again. It was a stop and go thingy. Then I stopped the engine, let it cool down some 15 minutes and poured the rest of the Bars into the radiator and ran the engine. Revved it a few times and lo!, the coolant stopped leaking!!! So, it works but maybe my radiator had smaller holes. 😁
I’ve always just opened the lid and pored it in
I'm guessing it's not being recycled.
You are the dimmest bulb in the chandelier my man
That will not work .. test it in a car not no tubes look how much he have to use to even see just save your money and get k seal coolant permanent repair or just get it fix
Well 2 things.. the highest the pressure gets in a cooling system is around what 15-20psi.. i dunno what pressure that pump you used could generate but still the colling system gets hot as fuck.. maybe if you heated up the whole system because some of that stuff activates with heat and pressure. Some reacts with heat differential like its all fluid while cool or hot but when it goes from hot to a cool place like through a hole, the stuff hardens and collects at the hole…
Just waisting antifreeze just use Water pluss the sealer activates when its hot
Does anyone know if you can use Bars Stop Leak multiple times? It was applied to my vehicle and it stopped the white smoke immediately…. However that lasted a few hundred miles and now the white smoke started to return. I just need the get the car up and running for another week so I can get it in the shop for repair. Thanks I’m advance to anyone who can help with this question!
Drain the radiator(or wait for fluid level get low I guess) and just repeat the process
Hope your rides OK
Bullet hole.......🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Should definitely just fix the leak and not gum up your cooling system
It needs to be hot.
The stop leak is worse than a temporary solution. That garbage gets all over the small passages of the engine/radiator and clogs the whole system.
Not only did it not get heated.. Was that oatmeal at the end? 😆.. Or what drained and reclaimed? That doesn't happen in the real world.
It would also be nice to see everything going on.. Not just a staged area. Wow..
did it work?? is the radiator still leaking...?
sorry bro but that would be a leak where it would be better to replace the entire radiator. That was no small leak and you were not bringing the liquid up to steaming levels. Bad test . 1 star