Yo Jenn, keep it up and way to go! My fiancee and I started climbing about two months ago and love it. We watch your videos all the time and take pointers. We also are in California so we will hit up some of these gyms you recommend! Thank you for your hard work and keep on sending! C & V
Aww congrats you two!! And so glad you started climbing together! My boyfriend and I climb together, it's just such a great hobby to do together :~) And DEFINITELY check out these gyms! Thanks so much for the support :~)
Tip for crimping, try different hand positions. You may find one works better than others for you. Eg. A full crimp might be uncomfortable but an open hand crimp may suit your hand better.
As a person with double jointed and bendy fingers as well, my recommendation like many others is just to climb consistently for a while! Don’t push it too hard, (that’s where injuries are most likely to happen) and slowly work them into a climbing routine. Finger boarding after you’ve had some time climbing also helps tremendously! Good luck and keep crushing!
So much nostalgia right now since its almost been a year of not climbing there. Thanks for posting this and thanks UA-cam algorithm for putting it in my feed lol.
Hey thats a Vertical Solutions Gym!! I work for the company and I love to hear that climbers are loving our gym builds and holds! Check out the Vertical Solutions website for a list of all the gyms we work with. If you’re ever in Salt Lake City, we have a brand new gym opening soon with huge open concept bouldering and 75 foot surround walls. Nice climbing Jenn!
woooooah so cool! i LOVED this gym and will definitely check out your other gyms! and ooooh i didn't have any plans to head to Salt Lake City, but now i feel like i have to make it out there! thanks so much :~)
Listened to the podcast!! I really like what you were saying about content entitlement! I hope people really start to realize that we create because we enjoy it and aren’t making stuff to appeal to anyone but ourselves. Idk that just is super relatable for me. So thank u!!
Thanks again for great climbing content, and best wishes for your graduation school interviews! After a year of climbing I just got my first pair of shoes. A little worried about the fit, but looking forward to trying them on the wall.
thanks so much!! YES, definitely check it out - i think i paid $15 for a day pass which is $10 cheaper than anywhere else i've gone in LA -__- and the amenities make it so worth it! highly recommend!
Listened to the podcast the other day -- good luck with your grad school interviews! I'm finishing my PhD this spring, it's a wild ride but if you love research it's worth it at the end of the day :)
My gym also has the baby head holds, but NOT the giant giant head only hold. I think the angle makes it super creepy too haha. Great video! Looks like a really cool gym, and awesome of your cousin to come along and climb/film with you!
I've never understood overhangs ... and climbing gyms. Yet, here we are, me enjoying both and revelling in your joy. Great video, excellent skills, and yes, prettiest gym ever!!
@@adjanilopezrocca3987 personally I climb at v3-4 level and I find the climbs there are really good for my level but I understand how they may not be satisfying at higher levels. but for what it is I think it's a great centre
That gym looks amazing and you were looking super strong! I have double jointed elbows and have found they are a lot better the longer I've climbed and the more strength I've gained, so maybe your cousin's fingers will get better when they get stronger from climbing more? I love the annotations and sound effects you add to your videos btw!
Hi! I’m the girl you met at the gym the day you filmed this 🤗 the video came out awesome! I have a question about climbing, my wrists always hurt after I climb and I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong as I’m a newbie haha, can’t find any info on it either and any would be greatly appreciated! ⭐️
AHHH hi selma!! i remember talking to you and remember your awesome OV pants :~D and oooh i haven't personally experienced that, but maybe it just means that you need to train your wrists more? there's this exercise that's popular among climbers where you hold a dumbbell with your knuckles pointed up towards the sky, and then rotate your knuckles towards yourself so that you're lifting the barbell up with your wrist and forearm, but keeping everything else still! and i know there are also special putties and exercise balls you can use to train wrist mobility, so maybe check those out as well! best of luck :~)
@@JenniferLangen Antagonist muscles, I believe ? I do the wrist curls with knuckles upwards, downwards and rotate hands 180 degree. Seems to work alright.
@@guillaumechampagne6659 RIGHT working those antagonist muscles is really good for injury prevention as well, i believe! climbers tend to overwork the same muscle groups so it's important to find that balance! and ooh yeah i was trying to explain wrist curls - selma, do those!! :~)
Another idea, my girlfriend gets wirst pain while climbing big holds because she bends the wirst too much to grap the hold deeper and get a better grip but its bad.
i'll definitely try! the setting was AMAZING there - even though the gym is smaller than my current gym, i felt like there were more problems i was eager to hop on and try. super cool!
Great edits as usual. I've gotten targeted ads about this place on ig and I've been curious. I definitely want to check it out now even though it's a lot further than my current gym.
i think i got some targeted ads for it too!! it's definitely a lot further of a drive for me which is why it took so long to visit, but you should check it out someday!
I'm similarly jointed to Natalie it would seem. I think I unintentionally compensate by full crimping more often. My specific type of whack joints also allows me to twist my thumb into a position where I can use it to pull and stabilise my hand and fingers too
I also have to deal with hypermobility (and long fingers to boot), but there isn't an easy fix. :( The main thing is to never full crimp (thumb wrapped on top), because it puts too much pressure on for us. The only thing that helps me so far is to train half and open crimp on the campus board, while standing on the foot holds.
ugh i know what you mean about full crimping. i got my middle finger into a lot of trouble by relying too heavily on full crimping with double jointed fingers. open crimping is tough but i want to keep my fingers intact! i'll pass your message along to natalie as well :~)
@@JenniferLangen i think she should use the 3 finger open grip more. it's harder in the beginning to get strong in it, but its way better for joints and tendens. lol, i didn't know i had hypermobilty to this day. i didn't know there is a word for getting a leg behind the head :'D
I also have double jointed fingers, and once mine got stronger it didn't bother me anymore, so just continue climbing and dont stop doing crimpy boulder! Once you re stronger you can enjoy them so much more!😊
Regarding the double jointed fingers, as some others have mentioned, double jointed fingers lead to extra pressure on your pulleys and extra force going through your tendons, especially when crimping. I've found that a three finger drag feels much much better for me, although it took me a while to train my 3FD so I didn't feel like I was gonna fall off all the time...
* looks up what a three finger drag is * i think i experienced that too! i had a swollen joint a while back that was kinda tender, so i went to OT for it. i didn't know that my fingers were double jointed too! so i've been trying to train open hand crimps recently, but yeah, it just feels so much weaker than a full crimp :D
@@JenniferLangen Wow! Didn't expect an actual response. Yeah 3FD is generally underrated/underused, but some people like Dave MacLeod (great scottish climber with a really educational/relaxing youtube) have trained it well enough that it's their go to. I sprained my A4 pulley recently and so I've been working on climbing low grades and practicing the 3FD, but the hard thing is once I start to get pumped I tend to switch back to crimping...
Yesss I can't wait to try LBR when I'm in Cali! I've been following along on their construction forever, I'm a big Bekah Martinez fan :') (she is the gf of the owner, Grayston!)
for the double jointed fingers! it feel like non-advice but you just have to focus extra hard on your hand positioning w crimps. i climb easier grades than my “level” for crimps so i can really practice not letting my fingers bend back w easier holds, and then ideally theyll get stronger and more used to being in the correct position n i can graduate to harder climbs
oooooooh that's a good point! someone also mentioned hangboarding but i feel like just focusing on keeping that finger tension while working on crimps will help a bunch! i'll pass this along to her :~)
I also have double jointed fingers and struggle with crimps more than most things. It makes it a lot tougher to keep the tension strong on your grip, but I've been experimenting with some different styles of crimps lately, and they seem to be helping.
Come climb at the Factory Bouldering in Orange, the holes are fun and creative with great vibes. Also, check out Planet Granite in Fountain Valley since they're offering a free week climb.
i heard about the offer from planet granite! i definitely want to take advantage of that. and i've heard good things about the factory bouldering as well!
Awesome gym, boulder only...??? Cool “but”. What “V” are you up to now and how long did it take you to get there? Strength vs weight...thoughts? Loved the tunes...non copyrighted selections?
i climb around a V3-V4 level outside, which translates to around V5-V6 in my gym :) not sure what you mean by strength vs weight, but i guess the general philosophy is that you need to have a good ratio of strength to weight in order to make climbing easier on yourself! and yeah, i try to use music that isn't copyrighted or where the artist has stated it's okay to use their music in youtube videos!
ooOOO thanks so much!! and i'm not sure, i haven't had any shoulder issues so far, but i think i've seen a lot of climbers do this thing called "resisted shoulder rotations" with a flexy band, so maybe look those up and try them for a bit? hopefully you get better soon!
@natalie 3:50 ive cracked my fingers obsessively all my life, this made them more and more flexible over time. When i got into climbing crimps *****ed. But i persisted and eventually noticed i was stronger holding onto crimps open handed istead of conventional half crimp. I had been training one arm hangs with a half crimp for months, i switched it up to training one arm hangs open handed. Within a couple weeks i managed to hang the 23mm beastmaker 2000 incut edge 5sec both arms, a long term climbing goal i thought would take me years to achieve.
Your footwork is incredible! Also, we have those baby hoods at my gym and they kinda freak me out 😅 the workers used chalk to fill in the eyes and put lines on its forehead one time and it was terrifying. I fell while about to send a 5.9 and the baby head left a big scrape on my shin so I feel like they have their own personalities
OMG NOOOO the hold came to life and bit back. those were so creepy, i can't imagine anyone actually wanting to set on them... and ahh thanks so much! :-D
The website is broken! 😫 WordPress is throwing a critical error :( On a better note, now I know where to go next time I'm in long Beach! Great stuff, and fun routes
oh DANG ugh this is what i get for trying to build a website without reading any kind of instructions first. i'll try to fix it!! and ahh yes definitely check it out!
Hey. So ive been watching you for a while now and ive noticed your improvement as far as technique goes. I'm not sure what you're drinking out there, but it's working hun. mhm mhm woo
hi! (first of all, sorry for my english) i have the same problem of your cousin, double-jointed fingers, i have been climbing since a year, my fingers bent till it makes a reverse right angle which is very painful. I'm so sorry but i dont have any advise, i just strenghtened my fingers doing a lot of hangboard to reinforce them and i have less pain but when i pull really hard they bend a lot and i have to get them back to their natural position with the other hand (i know that shouldent be good in long term).
ahh yes it does seem like hangboarding is a good way of strengthening those fingers and joints! i'll pass the note along to her :~) and i'm glad to hear that you're feeling less pain when you bend your fingers now! and your english was perfect :~)
@@JenniferLangen I don't think hangboard/campus board is good for beginner climbers? Very easy to injure yourself as your tendons aren't strong from the actual climbing yet.
@@TheValinov ooh ya i definitely would shy away from the hangboard if you're a beginner. i haven't even really touched one and i've been climbing for 2.5 years. i'm probably gonna start soon though!
@@guillaumechampagne6659 oh ya definitely not something you should do as a beginner! i'm 2.5 years into my climbing journey and i have yet to really incorporate hangboarding into my routine. hopefully gonna make a video about it soon though!
they're doing great! although i think i prefer the shape of the solutions for my foot shape. there's this air pocket below the arch of my foot which bugs my when i climb. but other than that, great shoe!
What's your opinion on the wooden walls vs the normal texture walls in gyms? I feel like they look nicer but I can't imagine they are good for smearing.
sooo they're wooden but actually coated in this super super gritty texture, so they feel a lot like normal textured gym walls! i actually have friends who say they get most scraped up while climbing in this gym
I have the same hand problem. When I press a button with my index finger it doesn't stay straight. It does this.. __/(| I just started climbing a month ago. But I put my hand flat on the wall and put the small crimp in that webbing inside the thumb and Index finger.
Cool stuff. I think some talking or explaining some ideas could be great for the flow of a video, like you guys talking about a problem or voice-over work. If not you end up with more of montage like this feels.
Wow, the 3:53 fact was very interesting for me, I have the same condition, but until I saw your video I didn’t know It was something “bad” . I think that if she is not experienced in climbing, to be careful with the crimps, because about 4 month ago I got injured on a crimp, and maybe is because of that double-jointed condition. I will search more about double-jointed condition. Thanks for that fact and for the video It’s beautifull. Saludos from Spain.
i think that hypermobility in the fingers can lead to injury when crimping! sometimes it causes you to put more strain on your pulleys. thanks so much for watching! :~)
I saw that V2 and was like, “that looks a little tough for a V2, maybe Touchstone does grad too easily.” But then you had to show us that V7 in the very next shot
i actually think the solutions might fit my feet better! i'm probably gonna go back to the solutions after the scarpas have busted. i like how stiff they are, though!
ahh thanks so much!! and oooh yeah my friend actually showed me a promotion that planet granite was having where you get a week free if you're a first time member? i might have to check it out!
Jenn Sends thanks! I’ve been wondering that for a while! I like the animated ones. Just listened to the Vertical Thoughts podcast you linked, and I wanted to let you know that I do care about your mental health and climbing progression. I enjoy how relaxing your climbing videos are. I’ll often rewatch them for a soothing background noise as I do other activities. They’ve made me want to be a better boulderer, and I’ve started pursuing more challenging problems since watching your channel.
@@smrfsrok ahhh thanks so much Mary! that means so much! i'm so glad you care and that you listened to the podcast :~) ahh thanks so much for sharing your own personal relationship with my videos and i'm glad you're inspired to try harder problems because of them! :~)
The little animation on the fist bump at 2:01 made me smile. Dope video Jenn!
love the smell of new gyms... Huge bouldering selection!!
Yo Jenn, keep it up and way to go!
My fiancee and I started climbing about two months ago and love it. We watch your videos all the time and take pointers. We also are in California so we will hit up some of these gyms you recommend! Thank you for your hard work and keep on sending!
C & V
Aww congrats you two!! And so glad you started climbing together! My boyfriend and I climb together, it's just such a great hobby to do together :~) And DEFINITELY check out these gyms! Thanks so much for the support :~)
I like how you write out all your thoughts in the video :) feels like I’m learning along the way as well!
ahh yes i try to communicate what's going on in my head while i'm climbing/while i'm editing! so glad that you like it :~)
Sometimes I accidentally get a feel of one of those shiny dual-texture holds and it just ruins my day.
They're great tho :(
NOOOOOO honestly i want to banish dual-tex holds to the netherworld and never see them again
Jenn Sends That sounds like a great place for all the dual texture holds!
Hi jenn, i finnally got my first v3-4 thanks for the inspiration and great bouldering videos keep it up :)
Ahhh that's awesome!! Congrats! V4 next :~D
Tip for crimping, try different hand positions. You may find one works better than others for you. Eg. A full crimp might be uncomfortable but an open hand crimp may suit your hand better.
As a person with double jointed and bendy fingers as well, my recommendation like many others is just to climb consistently for a while! Don’t push it too hard, (that’s where injuries are most likely to happen) and slowly work them into a climbing routine. Finger boarding after you’ve had some time climbing also helps tremendously!
Good luck and keep crushing!
So cool seeing you climb in a new gym and really love your video editing style!
So much nostalgia right now since its almost been a year of not climbing there. Thanks for posting this and thanks UA-cam algorithm for putting it in my feed lol.
The gym looks amazing, i live right near it but haven’t gone yet, i still go to the older one in LB, can’t wait to try it!
I’d love a video just attempting really hard climbs or a project video like the 32 tries one
ooh i'm so glad to hear you liked that one! i'll try to find another cool project that looks somewhat doable, but is still challenging :~)
Hey thats a Vertical Solutions Gym!! I work for the company and I love to hear that climbers are loving our gym builds and holds! Check out the Vertical Solutions website for a list of all the gyms we work with. If you’re ever in Salt Lake City, we have a brand new gym opening soon with huge open concept bouldering and 75 foot surround walls.
Nice climbing Jenn!
woooooah so cool! i LOVED this gym and will definitely check out your other gyms! and ooooh i didn't have any plans to head to Salt Lake City, but now i feel like i have to make it out there! thanks so much :~)
This is my gym!! I was sad to move out of LA and away from all the Touchstone gyms but I’m SO HAPPY Long Beach Rising opened up. It’s so dope!
ahh you're so lucky! so awesome that you're still able to climb even after your move :~)
Listened to the podcast!! I really like what you were saying about content entitlement! I hope people really start to realize that we create because we enjoy it and aren’t making stuff to appeal to anyone but ourselves. Idk that just is super relatable for me. So thank u!!
Thanks again for great climbing content, and best wishes for your graduation school interviews! After a year of climbing I just got my first pair of shoes. A little worried about the fit, but looking forward to trying them on the wall.
congrats on getting your first pair of climbing shoes! i hope you get to try them out soon and that they feel great! and thanks so much :~)
I’m in Long Beach most days for work.I’ve not heard of it but I’ll have to check it out. Thanks and very nice climbing for both of you.
thanks so much!! YES, definitely check it out - i think i paid $15 for a day pass which is $10 cheaper than anywhere else i've gone in LA -__- and the amenities make it so worth it! highly recommend!
Just found your channel. It’s great you put tips to the climbs and explain things. Been climbing for three months.
OMG the screen drawings are so cute :))
Love it! Added to the library. Glad you're doing so well.
you’re editing and animations are dope as hell! i love all of your videos ((:
Love your videos and appreciate the music selection a lot
Listened to the podcast the other day -- good luck with your grad school interviews! I'm finishing my PhD this spring, it's a wild ride but if you love research it's worth it at the end of the day :)
AHHH congrats on finishing up your PhD!! i'm sure it was a lot of work, but so worth it :~) thanks so much! i'm looking forward to the grind :D
My gym also has the baby head holds, but NOT the giant giant head only hold. I think the angle makes it super creepy too haha. Great video! Looks like a really cool gym, and awesome of your cousin to come along and climb/film with you!
ahhh they're super creepy for sure!! thanks so much, and yES i'm so lucky that i was able to convince my cousin to be my videographer for the day :~)
Whoa some vicarious achievement stoke here. Thx for sharing your process Jenn
I've never understood overhangs ... and climbing gyms. Yet, here we are, me enjoying both and revelling in your joy. Great video, excellent skills, and yes, prettiest gym ever!!
your vids have happy vibes! And the edits are goofly cute! i love them.
Climb on!
there's a beautiful gym in London in an old art deco cinema called The Arch Acton. I don't know why more people don't film there tbh, it's stunning
Its stunning but the climbs aren't great, apart from the comp wall actually
@@adjanilopezrocca3987 personally I climb at v3-4 level and I find the climbs there are really good for my level but I understand how they may not be satisfying at higher levels. but for what it is I think it's a great centre
Nothing makes me want to go climbing more than a Jenn Sends video. She just makes it look fun.
YESSS that's awesome!! go out there and climb!! right now!! i insist :D
you're inspiring me to try overhangs more as well haha glad you like them now!!
YES crush those overhangs girl!! you got this :~)
@@JenniferLangen thank you!! 😝
this channel is my favorite way to start my day :D thanks Jenn!
That gym looks amazing and you were looking super strong! I have double jointed elbows and have found they are a lot better the longer I've climbed and the more strength I've gained, so maybe your cousin's fingers will get better when they get stronger from climbing more?
I love the annotations and sound effects you add to your videos btw!
thanks so much! hopefully the problem goes away as she gets stronger and stronger :~)
Hi! I’m the girl you met at the gym the day you filmed this 🤗 the video came out awesome!
I have a question about climbing, my wrists always hurt after I climb and I don’t know if I’m doing something wrong as I’m a newbie haha, can’t find any info on it either and any would be greatly appreciated! ⭐️
AHHH hi selma!! i remember talking to you and remember your awesome OV pants :~D and oooh i haven't personally experienced that, but maybe it just means that you need to train your wrists more? there's this exercise that's popular among climbers where you hold a dumbbell with your knuckles pointed up towards the sky, and then rotate your knuckles towards yourself so that you're lifting the barbell up with your wrist and forearm, but keeping everything else still! and i know there are also special putties and exercise balls you can use to train wrist mobility, so maybe check those out as well! best of luck :~)
@@JenniferLangen Antagonist muscles, I believe ? I do the wrist curls with knuckles upwards, downwards and rotate hands 180 degree. Seems to work alright.
@@guillaumechampagne6659 RIGHT working those antagonist muscles is really good for injury prevention as well, i believe! climbers tend to overwork the same muscle groups so it's important to find that balance! and ooh yeah i was trying to explain wrist curls - selma, do those!! :~)
Another idea, my girlfriend gets wirst pain while climbing big holds because she bends the wirst too much to grap the hold deeper and get a better grip but its bad.
Jenn Sends ahh thank you!! I will definitely try that, I appreciate it 🥰
nice seeing your hook abilities have improved greatly..
That orange start looked so frustrating lol! Nice job
Another great video, I always look forward to videos from this channel!
thanks so much! :D
!!! I love LBR. Mikey's setting is dope, facilities are great, I just wish it was closer to home.
Come out to their next comp!
i'll definitely try! the setting was AMAZING there - even though the gym is smaller than my current gym, i felt like there were more problems i was eager to hop on and try. super cool!
Great edits as usual. I've gotten targeted ads about this place on ig and I've been curious. I definitely want to check it out now even though it's a lot further than my current gym.
i think i got some targeted ads for it too!! it's definitely a lot further of a drive for me which is why it took so long to visit, but you should check it out someday!
I'm similarly jointed to Natalie it would seem. I think I unintentionally compensate by full crimping more often. My specific type of whack joints also allows me to twist my thumb into a position where I can use it to pull and stabilise my hand and fingers too
I also have to deal with hypermobility (and long fingers to boot), but there isn't an easy fix. :( The main thing is to never full crimp (thumb wrapped on top), because it puts too much pressure on for us. The only thing that helps me so far is to train half and open crimp on the campus board, while standing on the foot holds.
ugh i know what you mean about full crimping. i got my middle finger into a lot of trouble by relying too heavily on full crimping with double jointed fingers. open crimping is tough but i want to keep my fingers intact! i'll pass your message along to natalie as well :~)
I found with my double jointed fingers that just climbing more made them stronger now I have no problems with them bending back
keep climbing!! that's always good advice, in my opinion :~) thanks for the tip!
@@JenniferLangen i think she should use the 3 finger open grip more. it's harder in the beginning to get strong in it, but its way better for joints and tendens.
lol, i didn't know i had hypermobilty to this day. i didn't know there is a word for getting a leg behind the head :'D
@@JenniferLangen i totally agree with penguin, i used to have this exact problem and it got a lot better with consistently climbing
i screamed when i heard Mustard Service in the intro. So cool you know them too!
lol we have the same baby head holds at our gym and i've heard the staff comment on how they like how uncomfortable it makes people feel
"At least I have the beginning sequence down!"
Been. There. haha
I also have double jointed fingers, and once mine got stronger it didn't bother me anymore, so just continue climbing and dont stop doing crimpy boulder! Once you re stronger you can enjoy them so much more!😊
makes sense! i'll pass the note along :~)
Regarding the double jointed fingers, as some others have mentioned, double jointed fingers lead to extra pressure on your pulleys and extra force going through your tendons, especially when crimping. I've found that a three finger drag feels much much better for me, although it took me a while to train my 3FD so I didn't feel like I was gonna fall off all the time...
* looks up what a three finger drag is * i think i experienced that too! i had a swollen joint a while back that was kinda tender, so i went to OT for it. i didn't know that my fingers were double jointed too! so i've been trying to train open hand crimps recently, but yeah, it just feels so much weaker than a full crimp :D
@@JenniferLangen Wow! Didn't expect an actual response. Yeah 3FD is generally underrated/underused, but some people like Dave MacLeod (great scottish climber with a really educational/relaxing youtube) have trained it well enough that it's their go to. I sprained my A4 pulley recently and so I've been working on climbing low grades and practicing the 3FD, but the hard thing is once I start to get pumped I tend to switch back to crimping...
Yesss I can't wait to try LBR when I'm in Cali! I've been following along on their construction forever, I'm a big Bekah Martinez fan :') (she is the gf of the owner, Grayston!)
That v7 was my first ever. I used to be at LBR 5-6 days a week before covid.
for the double jointed fingers! it feel like non-advice but you just have to focus extra hard on your hand positioning w crimps. i climb easier grades than my “level” for crimps so i can really practice not letting my fingers bend back w easier holds, and then ideally theyll get stronger and more used to being in the correct position n i can graduate to harder climbs
oooooooh that's a good point! someone also mentioned hangboarding but i feel like just focusing on keeping that finger tension while working on crimps will help a bunch! i'll pass this along to her :~)
VERY INTERESTING, as my fingers actually bend a lot too but crimps on vert and slab and my favourite types of holds and I feel strong on them!
oooh so despite your fingers bending a bit you don't feel like it holds you back! that's good that you aren't experiencing any pain !
yay!! new video :D and wow how is that like not a hotel
omg i know right??? it really felt like a resort tbh
Wow what a lobby! That gym looks amazing 😍
I also have double jointed fingers and struggle with crimps more than most things. It makes it a lot tougher to keep the tension strong on your grip, but I've been experimenting with some different styles of crimps lately, and they seem to be helping.
Going for full crimps might help?Then again that is more tension, so probably not the best solution
Come climb at the Factory Bouldering in Orange, the holes are fun and creative with great vibes. Also, check out Planet Granite in Fountain Valley since they're offering a free week climb.
i heard about the offer from planet granite! i definitely want to take advantage of that. and i've heard good things about the factory bouldering as well!
flagging moves are really helping so much in bouldering! keep it up ! :)
they're such a game changer!! thanks so much :~)
@@JenniferLangen haha when i started my climbing journey, flagging moves just improve my beta so much!!
Awesome gym, boulder only...??? Cool “but”. What “V” are you up to now and how long did it take you to get there? Strength vs weight...thoughts? Loved the tunes...non copyrighted selections?
i climb around a V3-V4 level outside, which translates to around V5-V6 in my gym :) not sure what you mean by strength vs weight, but i guess the general philosophy is that you need to have a good ratio of strength to weight in order to make climbing easier on yourself! and yeah, i try to use music that isn't copyrighted or where the artist has stated it's okay to use their music in youtube videos!
Great video as usual jenn✌🏽✌🏽✌🏽(on a side note, what are some good rehab exercises to do for a shoulder impingement?)
ooOOO thanks so much!! and i'm not sure, i haven't had any shoulder issues so far, but i think i've seen a lot of climbers do this thing called "resisted shoulder rotations" with a flexy band, so maybe look those up and try them for a bit? hopefully you get better soon!
@natalie 3:50 ive cracked my fingers obsessively all my life, this made them more and more flexible over time. When i got into climbing crimps *****ed. But i persisted and eventually noticed i was stronger holding onto crimps open handed istead of conventional half crimp. I had been training one arm hangs with a half crimp for months, i switched it up to training one arm hangs open handed. Within a couple weeks i managed to hang the 23mm beastmaker 2000 incut edge 5sec both arms, a long term climbing goal i thought would take me years to achieve.
That Dyno was so cool!
Hey guys that boulder at 6:00 looks really cool. Do you think you can do that move by creating tension between the wall and that hand hold?
Your footwork is incredible! Also, we have those baby hoods at my gym and they kinda freak me out 😅 the workers used chalk to fill in the eyes and put lines on its forehead one time and it was terrifying. I fell while about to send a 5.9 and the baby head left a big scrape on my shin so I feel like they have their own personalities
OMG NOOOO the hold came to life and bit back. those were so creepy, i can't imagine anyone actually wanting to set on them... and ahh thanks so much! :-D
The website is broken! 😫 WordPress is throwing a critical error :(
On a better note, now I know where to go next time I'm in long Beach! Great stuff, and fun routes
oh DANG ugh this is what i get for trying to build a website without reading any kind of instructions first. i'll try to fix it!! and ahh yes definitely check it out!
Hey.
So ive been watching you for a while now and ive noticed your improvement as far as technique goes. I'm not sure what you're drinking out there, but it's working hun. mhm mhm woo
ahh thanks so much! that means a lot, i really appreciate it! :~)
That gym is so big and pretty 😍
Ps. Natalie I feel your pain of being double jointed 😅
I’m realizing that the real gym was actually the friends made along the way
because my friends are always testing me
hi! (first of all, sorry for my english) i have the same problem of your cousin, double-jointed fingers, i have been climbing since a year, my fingers bent till it makes a reverse right angle which is very painful. I'm so sorry but i dont have any advise, i just strenghtened my fingers doing a lot of hangboard to reinforce them and i have less pain but when i pull really hard they bend a lot and i have to get them back to their natural position with the other hand (i know that shouldent be good in long term).
ahh yes it does seem like hangboarding is a good way of strengthening those fingers and joints! i'll pass the note along to her :~) and i'm glad to hear that you're feeling less pain when you bend your fingers now! and your english was perfect :~)
you absolutly shouldn't hangboard in the first year...
@@JenniferLangen I don't think hangboard/campus board is good for beginner climbers? Very easy to injure yourself as your tendons aren't strong from the actual climbing yet.
@@TheValinov ooh ya i definitely would shy away from the hangboard if you're a beginner. i haven't even really touched one and i've been climbing for 2.5 years. i'm probably gonna start soon though!
@@guillaumechampagne6659 oh ya definitely not something you should do as a beginner! i'm 2.5 years into my climbing journey and i have yet to really incorporate hangboarding into my routine. hopefully gonna make a video about it soon though!
Crushing it! How are the VSRs?
they're doing great! although i think i prefer the shape of the solutions for my foot shape. there's this air pocket below the arch of my foot which bugs my when i climb. but other than that, great shoe!
What's your opinion on the wooden walls vs the normal texture walls in gyms? I feel like they look nicer but I can't imagine they are good for smearing.
sooo they're wooden but actually coated in this super super gritty texture, so they feel a lot like normal textured gym walls! i actually have friends who say they get most scraped up while climbing in this gym
Music is always on point!
I remember the holds here were hella new and scratchy. Still an epic place to climb!
that fresh hold feeling - scraped up my arms and legs pretty bad. still loved it though! :~)
love the editing
I literally have the same problem as Natalie; just hangboard to stay healthy!
i'll pass this along to her! hopefully strengthen up those joints :~)
I have the same hand problem. When I press a button with my index finger it doesn't stay straight. It does this.. __/(|
I just started climbing a month ago. But I put my hand flat on the wall and put the small crimp in that webbing inside the thumb and Index finger.
Cool stuff. I think some talking or explaining some ideas could be great for the flow of a video, like you guys talking about a problem or voice-over work. If not you end up with more of montage like this feels.
I also have weird bendy fingers! I find that crimps just give me sore knuckles, especially the last joint on my finger...
My favorite climber ! 😭
I'm double jointed at the elbow and crompression moves screw them up. I just avoid them if I feel pain... 😢
Quality video. That yellow v7? looked like a v4, maybe low v5?
Its a v3
Wow, the 3:53 fact was very interesting for me, I have the same condition, but until I saw your video I didn’t know It was something “bad” . I think that if she is not experienced in climbing, to be careful with the crimps, because about 4 month ago I got injured on a crimp, and maybe is because of that double-jointed condition. I will search more about double-jointed condition. Thanks for that fact and for the video It’s beautifull. Saludos from Spain.
i think that hypermobility in the fingers can lead to injury when crimping! sometimes it causes you to put more strain on your pulleys. thanks so much for watching! :~)
Best music taste! Your videos rule / you rule.
I saw that V2 and was like, “that looks a little tough for a V2, maybe Touchstone does grad too easily.” But then you had to show us that V7 in the very next shot
LOL it had to be shown!!
love me some Jenn Sends! Also FYI when going to your website it says: There has been a critical error on your website. And it doesn't work
ughhh that's so frustrating! i'm trying to fix it but am really bad with this website, i'll try to get it up and running as soon as i can!
How do you like the scarpa vsr compared to the solutions
i actually think the solutions might fit my feet better! i'm probably gonna go back to the solutions after the scarpas have busted. i like how stiff they are, though!
I have the same double finger joint problem as you. My advice is just get stronger. Train Crimpd and you’ll be able to hold them like nothing
You should come to austria (Vienna). We have some really dope boulder gyms.
i really want to! i'm going to be in Germany in April, but would love to make the trip down south since I love Bavaria and Austria so much :D
@@JenniferLangen would be nice if you come visit. We also have a big leadclimbing gym in vienna if you are interested in trying that.
Stepping on baby heads. come on Jenn!
Lool.
I love your edits and the cute pictures you add! I did not love those baby head holds 😧
HAHA i didn't like them either! and ahhh thanks so much :~)
Awesome! Recently visited one in Denver that I enjoyed alot
Which one? I live in denver so just curious
LBR is so sick! Can't wait to go back!
heck yeah!! glad you agree :~)
you should visit planet granite in fountain valley, california! socal gym that just opened and its very VERY pretty too HAHA love ur vids
ahh thanks so much!! and oooh yeah my friend actually showed me a promotion that planet granite was having where you get a week free if you're a first time member? i might have to check it out!
Have you heard of Yonder? It’s such a cool/ pretty as well
i have heard of it! i hope to visit it sometime in April :~)
love watching u boulder :D
Interesting choice of music, though I definitely enjoyed the indie-ish vibes
😍We have a gym like that in England called Yonder. Wood is so in right now haha.
ahh it's gorgeous; i've seen it in vlogs! i'd really like to visit this year, hopefully we can meet up and climb!
nice reading technique at the dyno
dude my gym also has baby head holds too and I don't climb that problem specifically haha
V nice vid, gym reminds me a bit of Yonder, esp the sandpaper walls
oooh ya i can see that! never been but i hope to visit sometime in april! :~)
You should try to put your feet higher in some situations (green pinchy looking boulder e.g.). Keep up the great work 😍👌🏼
Both jenn and the gym are pretty!
How do you do all your text effects on Final Cut Pro?
i handwrite them! :~) i use an ipad and then import the individual frames, and make them into gifs or just use the static handwritten image :~)
Jenn Sends thanks! I’ve been wondering that for a while! I like the animated ones. Just listened to the Vertical Thoughts podcast you linked, and I wanted to let you know that I do care about your mental health and climbing progression. I enjoy how relaxing your climbing videos are. I’ll often rewatch them for a soothing background noise as I do other activities. They’ve made me want to be a better boulderer, and I’ve started pursuing more challenging problems since watching your channel.
@@smrfsrok ahhh thanks so much Mary! that means so much! i'm so glad you care and that you listened to the podcast :~) ahh thanks so much for sharing your own personal relationship with my videos and i'm glad you're inspired to try harder problems because of them! :~)