5:10 - "911, what is your emergency"? ..........." There is a man dressed like an Umpa-Lumpa and he keeps taking plastic bottles out of my trash can and slashing them with a big black sword"................"No need to worry Ma'am, that's just Arthur Wu making a UA-cam video. His parents will be home soon and they will make him go back to the basement".
My favorite so far is the napoleon saber. I haven't really handled the prussian saber (that isnt' even on the website anymore, but you can get it through 3rd party sellers and the garage sale though.
You're not familiar with western saber fencing are you? It's not that your technique looks bad, it's just that it looks like technique built around a sword without full hand coverage. You do need to work on edge alignment though, your wrist is not angling itself so your blade can follow a straight trajectory.
I have the 1917 Sabre, it's kind of heavy though. That seem a lighter. You seem to handle it well. Just the top half should be sharp the bottom half is dull for parrying.
Bottle cutting is a lot harder than it looks! The key is to insure the bottle is completely filled with zero airspace at the top so there is no possibility for the plastic body to deform on impact from the sword. I like your technique with the long-blade sabre!
I see others commenting on your cutting technique. It's 3 years ago i see so probably you already figured these out. On the off chance you haven't though... I think you're fine technique-wise, you can handle a sword quite impressively and for non-cutting I wouldn't comment on it. You have plenty of power which is something many HEMA practitioners have problems generating with single hand swords. I'm guessing you have a background in SCA heavy combat and/or some of the more practical eastern martial arts (or like I do, both of these). You got good hip and body power generation (and obviously muscles :) ). If you allow I can give you some humble little pointers that will improve cutting a lot, details that are very common issues for most cutters. First, a sword needs to be razor sharp to cut a water bottle perfectly or they tear or crack. People, especially those who don't do cutting themselves (armchair cutters? lol) or only use two handed grips tend to downplay this and blame it on imperfect technique. But from my experience you should sharpen it until it can easily cut stationery cleanly without tears. Sharpness beyond what most people think is necessary or even possible. Think of the polished razor sharp katanas people are using. Try getting close to that maybe using fine whetstones. Sharpening a blade is a skillset and art all of its' own and easiest to learn on smaller knives and then larger ones and then swords. It takes time, reading up on how to do it properly and some experience. I'm still learning this art myself. You may also be cutting further down the blade than where it's the most sharp now. So sharpen the place you first hit the bottle with (2/3 up the blade probably) The second pointer is an issue common for people who trained a lot with swords or wasters (or rattan sticks) without cutting through a resistive medium, or moslty train percussive strikes (like practical Kali or SCA combat) and it's scooping the cut, aka a J-cut. It tears the second half of the way through rather than cuts and creates a horn or tail to the cut. To prevent this make sure to cut in a single plane through the object (doesn't need to be horizontal, a 15-20 degree cut is probably easiest to make) and then make the return flourish. Another thing to look out for with single handed cutting is you need to stiffen your wrist at the point of contact until the cut passes fully through the medium. This becomes more evident the more resistive materials you cut, a tatami will wrench the blade bending the wrist in a way a two handed grip won't (it's simply much easier to resist with two hands). Safety tips I always give are to stand with the same leg forward but I see you doing that already and your Blade/body awareness is excellent. Cutting with the off leg forward is possible of course but carries more risk of cutting ones' leg. A single edge sword you can of couse flip it over to land a back side on the leg and bruise rather than cut, but some risk if injury is still there. Also do not cut with the sun in your eyes or in poor light conditions. I tend to aim my cuts too high when the light is low, and also when i get the sun in my eyes. So avoid that if possible. A safety lanyard could be a good idea if you have others watching. Also never allow anyone to stand close behind you during cutting. For their safety and yours. Waterbottles are fairly easy to cut as long as you do these things (Single plane cut and sharp enough, and resist the wrist wrench). Tatami cutting or wet newspaper rolls will get a sword stuck if you J-cut. Milk or equivalent bottles (i.e. non-transparent juice bottles) are in turn easier than the PET bottles so you can practice getting a perfect clean cut with those fiirst, then PET bottles and move on further to other more difficult mediums. I hope these pointers help you. I see great potential for you as a cutter and with these small things you'd get there quickly. :) I'm thinking of getting this saber or maybe the Cold Steel Shamshir to complement my cutting sword collection so it was good to see this video.
holy shit i appreciate the long well thought out reply!! you're absolutely right though, the angle of the edge matters BIG time. One of hte issues I have with cold steel is that a lot of their swords come with an edge angle of over 30 degrees and it's hard to cut with something like that... whereas my zombietools sword even though the edge has been dinged up because i dropped it on asphalt nad it slid -.-, with its edge angle of maybe 20 degrees or SOMETHING, still cuts perfectly fine after being sort of touched up like 2 years ago LMAO
i like everything about this sword and the hybrid 1917 except for the scabbards they come with. i prefer the 1796 leather scabbard style with the carry rings to carry the sword
Nice moves, but you lose points for not recognizing the rayskin wrapping. I have the thompson sabre, I got mine directly from the Ventura store free of any defects you'd occasionally receive from third party sellers.
Arthur Wu ••••••••• It would be very useful if you would do the British proof test on your swords. Cold Steel doesn't seem to have any video of testing of this sword at all, which is a little suspicious.
Great review. The sword is intended to only have the first 6 inches from the tip sharpened per Mr. Thompsons specifications to leave material down the length of the blade for blocking and parrying. You’ve clearly had some training not trying to be critical but eeeegh your gonna loose a hand or finger sticking your off and out there my dude. 😬
For being short you're a fairly burly guy. Also, very nice review, I've considered this sword, the light calvary saber was a bit heavy for my taste and I eventually sold it off, you say it feels relatively light?
it feels light only because of the handle. If it had a handle like the cavalry sabers, it'll prlly feel heavy because you're using extra strength just to hold and control the blade
The Thompson saber was purposely left partially dull mid sword for parrying.. the last 6 inches is the sharp part. Though you did say it was dull which is not acceptable. But good to see you sharpened it up
What's written in the description isn't always what is on the sword. Mine is sharpened (or bevel'd) all the way to about an inch and a half above the hilt. If you look in my video, the white part on the edge of the blade is literally the bevel. The description also says that the tip is sharpened razor sharp. If you watched in my video all the way through, you might have noticed that I mentioned that this thing had a point protector at the end of it. You also might notice if you have EVER ordered a sword from almost any manufacturer, that the blade is always wrapped in plastic. Now, let's use some critical thinking. What might happen if that plastic were held REALLY tight against hte sword and someone decided to SQUEEZE ON the point protector? that razor edge might become a not so razor edge LOL. But I guess that's why we have reviews xD because sometimes descriptions are misleading :D Thanks for watching
Arthur Wu hi thanks for the response. I was referring to you mentioning that the blade wasn't that sharp all the way to the hilt. I did watch the entire video hence why I mentioned cold steel claims it was left intentionally "dull" or not as sharp as the last 6 inches. QC can vary with them since they don't not produce their own blades any more and have a third party forge (maker) produce for them. Glad to see you got the blade sharp again though. The tips on their swords (or any production sword) are always wrapped and greased up for protection during shipping. So yea sometimes with that thick plastic tip it can dull it up a bit. I have a couple of blades from cold steel but never ran into that problem. No one has any vids reviewing this blade so was good to see someone put one up. Even cold steel doesn't have a marketing video for it. Thanks for the response and keep up the videos!
a661992 yah considering it's IMO their best saber yet, it's kind of odd. Maybe I can see if I can have a job working with their team of people who swing their shit around, not knowing what they're doing LOL But yeah I also ordered the napoleon saber and the bevel they put on it wasn't symmetrical :((((
Arthur Wu sometimes their QC could suck. I'm going to get this sword but the idea of the Ray skin handle I'm about skeptical about. Meaning; how does it grip.? Must be rough on the hands. Can one perform snap cuts comfortably? Push cuts? Their longswords are good. Simple designs. Lynn Thompson dedicates a lot of time training and his input was put into this sword. But because it's HIS input may not be for everyone else lol. Their other blades are general and based on historic pieces. Personally, I prefer custom steel.. but for swords these perform fine. I look forward to getting mine. Amazon has them pretty cheap. Thanks again.. look forward to more reviews
Very cool video👍 When you were outside cutting bottles did your neighbors give you any funny looks? And to help with the sharpening you should invest in the work sharp it can sharpen anything from kitchen knives to swords.
The length thing in sabres was they were made keeping in mind that most infantry soilders were over 6 feet and above and in europe they were like 6 feet 5 inch and more so the weight and length were quite light and blade length was the key so most sabres are long more then 32 inches other then katana they were designed to be handled by short people like under 5"8' thats why for leverage the katana have two hand design because people with short muscle can't handle front heavy blades so they need two hands to use the sword to its fullest
Amit Chhutani it has nothing to do with a people's physical limitations but more so about cultural styles . European and near eastern cultures favored the one hand sword design because originally the other hand was used to grasp a shield. The Japanese warriors never used shields because they considered them as the physical manifestation of fear.
I doubt the statement about infantry soldiers being 6'5" tall is even close to accurate for Europe at any time in history. Size is a function of calorie intake and a relatively "easy" developmental childhood that allows maximum height to occur. In Medieval Europe food was scare for all but the most wealthy! In fact, the invention of Margarine in the latter 19th century was an effort to create a higher calorie food source for troops based on an inexpensive foundation product.
I have like no experience with longsword so I would chose the saber, because I have experience with the kungfu broadsword... though if you have good experience with western swords with crosshilts and longswords, then italian longsword all the way. It is superbly balanced and the handle is comfortable as fuck. If you're good with the saber, go with the saber. I'm glad I got the italian longsword though, I practice with it a lot and it's a whole different way of swinging a sword around. so in conclusion, they're different.
If they still had the 1904 austrian saber in production, I'd go with that one if the price weren't so damn high because of scarcity everywhere. I've held it and it's light as fuck.
@@ArfooHuroo : I have the left handed Austrian 1904. The issue with the Austrian is that it trades a little bit of cutting ability for the sturdiness in the thrust. And one thing that people forget is that a sword doesn't have to totally sever a limb to cause fatal wounds. And the 1904 is a very fast blade. Still ordering the Thomson and I am going to mate it with a 1908 LH CS saber guard.
@@ArfooHuroo : I have a few antiques actually. A RH 1904 style is one of them; it's a beast. The others are the 1867 Swiss officer infantry sabre and the 1899. Swiss Infantry sabers are a lot closer to dueling sabres.
You have very nices skills in martial arts Arthur. Tell me, ¿what styles did you practice? Someting Chinese I gest, because of the form. But, I can see the mixed styles, like HEMA. Let me gest, you train for several years in kung fu or something like that, and then you start studying HEMA sources. Now you tell me you start with Kali and Boxing... hahahaha
Noticed you hit the concrete twice while you were swinging, also swinging at already empty bottles. I question your knowledge especially with the ceramic question. You're gonna hurt yourself if you keep at it.
Thanks for the concern, but I'm well aware of everything you've just pointed out. I've 'hurt' myself plenty of times over the years with practice weapons and real weapons alike. I'm well aware of the danger, so don't try to jynx me and say that I'm "going to hurt" myself. The only reason why it hit the ground was because I'm short and was new to the length. I'm 5'2 and the blade length is 32 inches. Chinese broadsword length is 25-26 inches usually. The ceramic material is rayskin by the way. And seriously, what's your gripe with cutting at empty bottles LMAO. brb, hurting myself swinging at empty bottle
2.2 pounds sword, i believe that you re a strong man.. you swing it like it is a twig. [ p.s.: there's always a chem trail in the US sky... what a busy sky]
when you said you were going to test cut and jump cuts to your dog I was crying laughing and scared at the same time! on a side note is this good for lefties or no?
flablaberous kiwi the guard is huge (covering both sides, although right side a tad more) so I would imagine that lefties wouldn't have a problem with it
In my opinion, a sabre or saber is used for striking, not cutting. Think of it is fighting someone in armor. Straight swords can get cut, curved blade, less likely. Hard to believe, but its a melee weapon, not a cutting weapon. It was invented basically when armor was a thing.
Also, raise your sword with an uprise technique with a one hand sword in combat. You better better have a pistol in the other hand unless u have a 2 hand sword. Watch fencing, you ever see a real fencer hold the sword over the shoulder. It's not deltoid. Its pecs, abs, and legs. What weapon other than a bow requires deltoids as the primary muscle?
Pretty much everything you said there is incorrect mate, I don't even know where one would come up with such a notion as the sabre not being a good in the cut, I'm scared to ask but do you have source for such a claim?
@@lukemcinerny8220 I apologize, I neglected to mention that a sabre with no edge is optimum on horseback, riding at full speed with the weight of the horse and the rider using striking motions.
@@Chromiumblue source? Remember the sword as always been primarily a side arm, if you needed a weapon to use against an armored opponent you'd use a war hammer, a mace or some type of pole arm. The only thing I can think of that is like a sword with no edge you'd use from horse back is an Estoc which was a thrusting weapon used famously by polish winged hussars but they carried like at least 4 weapons into battle one of which was an edged sabre as well, there is also the sword/Estoc used french cuirassiers but again they only trhusted with them so they struggled in defending against allied cavalry with conventional sabres which where sharp very sharp lol
5:10 - "911, what is your emergency"? ..........." There is a man dressed like an Umpa-Lumpa and he keeps taking plastic bottles out of my trash can and slashing them with a big black sword"................"No need to worry Ma'am, that's just Arthur Wu making a UA-cam video. His parents will be home soon and they will make him go back to the basement".
Eurotrash4367 :D
All in good fun bro. Great review by the way. You seem to have lots of experience with Cold Steel's sabres. Which model is your favorite overall?
My favorite so far is the napoleon saber. I haven't really handled the prussian saber (that isnt' even on the website anymore, but you can get it through 3rd party sellers and the garage sale though.
You're not familiar with western saber fencing are you? It's not that your technique looks bad, it's just that it looks like technique built around a sword without full hand coverage. You do need to work on edge alignment though, your wrist is not angling itself so your blade can follow a straight trajectory.
Thank you
I have the 1917 Sabre, it's kind of heavy though. That seem a lighter. You seem to handle it well. Just the top half should be sharp the bottom half is dull for parrying.
only review on this item thanks
Bottle cutting is a lot harder than it looks! The key is to insure the bottle is completely filled with zero airspace at the top so there is no possibility for the plastic body to deform on impact from the sword. I like your technique with the long-blade sabre!
Nice review. I see you are using a hammer (closed fist) grip. Have you noticed any improvement in using a thumb up grip on it ??
Thank you for this review, Arthur. Yours is the finest I have seen on this model.
And that's a cool doggie!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!! Are there really other reviews of this particular model? I haven't seen any lol
Arthur Wu Only a written one on a sword buying guide website. You comically referenced such characters during your review: "Do you even lift, bro?"
Great video sir! I just ordered one for myself and i cant wait to start training with it!
I see others commenting on your cutting technique. It's 3 years ago i see so probably you already figured these out. On the off chance you haven't though...
I think you're fine technique-wise, you can handle a sword quite impressively and for non-cutting I wouldn't comment on it.
You have plenty of power which is something many HEMA practitioners have problems generating with single hand swords. I'm guessing you have a background in SCA heavy combat and/or some of the more practical eastern martial arts (or like I do, both of these). You got good hip and body power generation (and obviously muscles :) ).
If you allow I can give you some humble little pointers that will improve cutting a lot, details that are very common issues for most cutters.
First, a sword needs to be razor sharp to cut a water bottle perfectly or they tear or crack. People, especially those who don't do cutting themselves (armchair cutters? lol) or only use two handed grips tend to downplay this and blame it on imperfect technique. But from my experience you should sharpen it until it can easily cut stationery cleanly without tears. Sharpness beyond what most people think is necessary or even possible. Think of the polished razor sharp katanas people are using. Try getting close to that maybe using fine whetstones. Sharpening a blade is a skillset and art all of its' own and easiest to learn on smaller knives and then larger ones and then swords. It takes time, reading up on how to do it properly and some experience. I'm still learning this art myself.
You may also be cutting further down the blade than where it's the most sharp now. So sharpen the place you first hit the bottle with (2/3 up the blade probably)
The second pointer is an issue common for people who trained a lot with swords or wasters (or rattan sticks) without cutting through a resistive medium, or moslty train percussive strikes (like practical Kali or SCA combat) and it's scooping the cut, aka a J-cut. It tears the second half of the way through rather than cuts and creates a horn or tail to the cut.
To prevent this make sure to cut in a single plane through the object (doesn't need to be horizontal, a 15-20 degree cut is probably easiest to make) and then make the return flourish.
Another thing to look out for with single handed cutting is you need to stiffen your wrist at the point of contact until the cut passes fully through the medium. This becomes more evident the more resistive materials you cut, a tatami will wrench the blade bending the wrist in a way a two handed grip won't (it's simply much easier to resist with two hands).
Safety tips I always give are to stand with the same leg forward but I see you doing that already and your Blade/body awareness is excellent. Cutting with the off leg forward is possible of course but carries more risk of cutting ones' leg. A single edge sword you can of couse flip it over to land a back side on the leg and bruise rather than cut, but some risk if injury is still there.
Also do not cut with the sun in your eyes or in poor light conditions. I tend to aim my cuts too high when the light is low, and also when i get the sun in my eyes. So avoid that if possible.
A safety lanyard could be a good idea if you have others watching.
Also never allow anyone to stand close behind you during cutting. For their safety and yours.
Waterbottles are fairly easy to cut as long as you do these things (Single plane cut and sharp enough, and resist the wrist wrench). Tatami cutting or wet newspaper rolls will get a sword stuck if you J-cut.
Milk or equivalent bottles (i.e. non-transparent juice bottles) are in turn easier than the PET bottles so you can practice getting a perfect clean cut with those fiirst, then PET bottles and move on further to other more difficult mediums.
I hope these pointers help you. I see great potential for you as a cutter and with these small things you'd get there quickly. :)
I'm thinking of getting this saber or maybe the Cold Steel Shamshir to complement my cutting sword collection so it was good to see this video.
holy shit i appreciate the long well thought out reply!! you're absolutely right though, the angle of the edge matters BIG time. One of hte issues I have with cold steel is that a lot of their swords come with an edge angle of over 30 degrees and it's hard to cut with something like that... whereas my zombietools sword even though the edge has been dinged up because i dropped it on asphalt nad it slid -.-, with its edge angle of maybe 20 degrees or SOMETHING, still cuts perfectly fine after being sort of touched up like 2 years ago LMAO
i like everything about this sword and the hybrid 1917 except for the scabbards they come with. i prefer the 1796 leather scabbard style with the carry rings to carry the sword
Nice moves, but you lose points for not recognizing the rayskin wrapping. I have the thompson sabre, I got mine directly from the Ventura store free of any defects you'd occasionally receive from third party sellers.
Hello Arthur. Does the Block Sharpener really work? It looks too good to be true.
I bought mine years ago at a cold steel parking lot sale for less than $100 in perfect condition
I can't beleive it's been so long since they had one of those in Ventura
Thanks for the review, from my perspective it's a shame they blackened the blade
Arthur Wu ••••••••• It would be very useful if you would do the British proof test on your swords. Cold Steel doesn't seem to have any video of testing of this sword at all, which is a little suspicious.
pay me $150 AND I'LL DO IT :D
sharpening blades is fun. and modern CLP gun oil is an excellent blade preservative
Great review. The sword is intended to only have the first 6 inches from the tip sharpened per Mr. Thompsons specifications to leave material down the length of the blade for blocking and parrying. You’ve clearly had some training not trying to be critical but eeeegh your gonna loose a hand or finger sticking your off and out there my dude. 😬
@@qwertyytrewq98765 not likely, Thankyou for your concern though. Swords are not lightsabers
100% leather sheath or is it wood scabbard covered in leather ? Thanks man.
I think it's hardened leather, but don't quote me on that
For being short you're a fairly burly guy. Also, very nice review, I've considered this sword, the light calvary saber was a bit heavy for my taste and I eventually sold it off, you say it feels relatively light?
it feels light only because of the handle. If it had a handle like the cavalry sabers, it'll prlly feel heavy because you're using extra strength just to hold and control the blade
Neo Feudalist all cold steel swords are a bit heavy, if you want lighter I recommend CAS Iberia/Hanwei.
The Thompson saber was purposely left partially dull mid sword for parrying.. the last 6 inches is the sharp part. Though you did say it was dull which is not acceptable. But good to see you sharpened it up
What's written in the description isn't always what is on the sword. Mine is sharpened (or bevel'd) all the way to about an inch and a half above the hilt. If you look in my video, the white part on the edge of the blade is literally the bevel. The description also says that the tip is sharpened razor sharp. If you watched in my video all the way through, you might have noticed that I mentioned that this thing had a point protector at the end of it. You also might notice if you have EVER ordered a sword from almost any manufacturer, that the blade is always wrapped in plastic. Now, let's use some critical thinking. What might happen if that plastic were held REALLY tight against hte sword and someone decided to SQUEEZE ON the point protector? that razor edge might become a not so razor edge LOL. But I guess that's why we have reviews xD because sometimes descriptions are misleading :D Thanks for watching
Arthur Wu hi thanks for the response.
I was referring to you mentioning that the blade wasn't that sharp all the way to the hilt. I did watch the entire video hence why I mentioned cold steel claims it was left intentionally "dull" or not as sharp as the last 6 inches. QC can vary with them since they don't not produce their own blades any more and have a third party forge (maker) produce for them.
Glad to see you got the blade sharp again though. The tips on their swords (or any production sword) are always wrapped and greased up for protection during shipping. So yea sometimes with that thick plastic tip it can dull it up a bit.
I have a couple of blades from cold steel but never ran into that problem.
No one has any vids reviewing this blade so was good to see someone put one up. Even cold steel doesn't have a marketing video for it.
Thanks for the response and keep up the videos!
a661992 yah considering it's IMO their best saber yet, it's kind of odd. Maybe I can see if I can have a job working with their team of people who swing their shit around, not knowing what they're doing LOL
But yeah I also ordered the napoleon saber and the bevel they put on it wasn't symmetrical :((((
a661992 thank you for watching and taking the time to respond
Arthur Wu sometimes their QC could suck.
I'm going to get this sword but the idea of the Ray skin handle I'm about skeptical about.
Meaning; how does it grip.? Must be rough on the hands.
Can one perform snap cuts comfortably?
Push cuts?
Their longswords are good. Simple designs.
Lynn Thompson dedicates a lot of time training and his input was put into this sword. But because it's HIS input may not be for everyone else lol.
Their other blades are general and based on historic pieces.
Personally, I prefer custom steel..
but for swords these perform fine.
I look forward to getting mine. Amazon has them pretty cheap.
Thanks again.. look forward to more reviews
Good showcase bro! 👌👍
Very cool video👍 When you were outside cutting bottles did your neighbors give you any funny looks? And to help with the sharpening you should invest in the work sharp it can sharpen anything from kitchen knives to swords.
TangSooDoArnis4Life thanks man and yah people do, but you just smile and wave to dissuade their fears lol
It can be used just like a Polish sabre due to the similar shape.
Great review. What style of swordsmanship HEMA?, Kung-fu?
a mixture of both-ish
"Lets go for the cuttin" next scene a living dog sitting there. my first thought "OMG you wont do this" and then "man... i am stupid..."
I wish I was one of your neighbors wondering what the crazy sword guy is doing outside.
What do you record your video with?
iphone 7
+Arthur Wu looks great. I may need to upgrade. Is this the selfie cam or the other side?
Some are selfie sides, the ones in the beginning are the otherside. I think I shot the last bit with the selfie cam
Is it a french sabre 1830?
11:12
SHOTS FIRED!!! SHOTS FIRED!!!
bruv you whack it on the asphalt every time you wind up for a swing
it was like needle stingin in my swordheart
The length thing in sabres was they were made keeping in mind that most infantry soilders were over 6 feet and above and in europe they were like 6 feet 5 inch and more so the weight and length were quite light and blade length was the key so most sabres are long more then 32 inches other then katana they were designed to be handled by short people like under 5"8' thats why for leverage the katana have two hand design because people with short muscle can't handle front heavy blades so they need two hands to use the sword to its fullest
citation needed
and if short people can't handle front heavy swords, then how come I can just fine xD, maybe you're just weak : P
Amit Chhutani it has nothing to do with a people's physical limitations but more so about cultural styles . European and near eastern cultures favored the one hand sword design because originally the other hand was used to grasp a shield. The Japanese warriors never used shields because they considered them as the physical manifestation of fear.
I doubt the statement about infantry soldiers being 6'5" tall is even close to accurate for Europe at any time in history. Size is a function of calorie intake and a relatively "easy" developmental childhood that allows maximum height to occur. In Medieval Europe food was scare for all but the most wealthy!
In fact, the invention of Margarine in the latter 19th century was an effort to create a higher calorie food source for troops based on an inexpensive foundation product.
"Let's get to the cutting"
(cuts to a shot with you and the dog)
😦
Handle is ray skin
Can you show us how you would wear a sword?
I think I have a video where i'm messing around with a belt, same sword (sword techniques?)
LOL man i used to be fat, gotta make a new video soon
2.2 pounds is a lot heavier when momentum is added to the equation.
this vs the Italian long-sword if you had to choose?
I have like no experience with longsword so I would chose the saber, because I have experience with the kungfu broadsword... though if you have good experience with western swords with crosshilts and longswords, then italian longsword all the way. It is superbly balanced and the handle is comfortable as fuck.
If you're good with the saber, go with the saber. I'm glad I got the italian longsword though, I practice with it a lot and it's a whole different way of swinging a sword around.
so in conclusion, they're different.
If they still had the 1904 austrian saber in production, I'd go with that one if the price weren't so damn high because of scarcity everywhere. I've held it and it's light as fuck.
@@ArfooHuroo : I have the left handed Austrian 1904. The issue with the Austrian is that it trades a little bit of cutting ability for the sturdiness in the thrust. And one thing that people forget is that a sword doesn't have to totally sever a limb to cause fatal wounds. And the 1904 is a very fast blade. Still ordering the Thomson and I am going to mate it with a 1908 LH CS saber guard.
@@brandonbowerstx OMG I WANTED THAT SWORD LOL i dont know why they discontinued it
@@ArfooHuroo : I have a few antiques actually. A RH 1904 style is one of them; it's a beast. The others are the 1867 Swiss officer infantry sabre and the 1899. Swiss Infantry sabers are a lot closer to dueling sabres.
Great review. Thanks.
Arthur "Lefty" Wu... Lefty, Slow is smooth; and SMOOTH is Fast.
Nice technique actually!
Shout out to The Cage :)
ayyy lmao
Nice but my man you are at your full power with a Dadaon in hands :-P
You have very nices skills in martial arts Arthur. Tell me, ¿what styles did you practice? Someting Chinese I gest, because of the form. But, I can see the mixed styles, like HEMA. Let me gest, you train for several years in kung fu or something like that, and then you start studying HEMA sources.
Now you tell me you start with Kali and Boxing... hahahaha
haha yeah, i trained about 1.5 years wushu and then a TINY bit kickboxing and mostly now my own studies and training. Sword stuff is semi-self-taught
Ceramic lol it's ray skin
Do you think it will decapitate a big bad bold and blood thirsty gut eating
Zombie in a Zombie Apocalypse ?
Nice video but you need to sharpen that sword a lot more.
Noticed you hit the concrete twice while you were swinging, also swinging at already empty bottles. I question your knowledge especially with the ceramic question. You're gonna hurt yourself if you keep at it.
Thanks for the concern, but I'm well aware of everything you've just pointed out. I've 'hurt' myself plenty of times over the years with practice weapons and real weapons alike. I'm well aware of the danger, so don't try to jynx me and say that I'm "going to hurt" myself. The only reason why it hit the ground was because I'm short and was new to the length. I'm 5'2 and the blade length is 32 inches. Chinese broadsword length is 25-26 inches usually. The ceramic material is rayskin by the way.
And seriously, what's your gripe with cutting at empty bottles LMAO. brb, hurting myself swinging at empty bottle
Not clean cuts, probably due to improper grip/bad edge alignment.
2.2 pounds sword, i believe that you re a strong man.. you swing it like it is a twig.
[ p.s.: there's always a chem trail in the US sky... what a busy sky]
You should ride horseback on your wolf u crazy hobbit
when you said you were going to test cut and jump cuts to your dog I was crying laughing and scared at the same time! on a side note is this good for lefties or no?
flablaberous kiwi the guard is huge (covering both sides, although right side a tad more) so I would imagine that lefties wouldn't have a problem with it
powerful
So it's pretty much a one handed katana lol.
Killed 145 angry 🐝
In my opinion, a sabre or saber is used for striking, not cutting. Think of it is fighting someone in armor. Straight swords can get cut, curved blade, less likely. Hard to believe, but its a melee weapon, not a cutting weapon. It was invented basically when armor was a thing.
Also, raise your sword with an uprise technique with a one hand sword in combat. You better better have a pistol in the other hand unless u have a 2 hand sword. Watch fencing, you ever see a real fencer hold the sword over the shoulder. It's not deltoid. Its pecs, abs, and legs. What weapon other than a bow requires deltoids as the primary muscle?
@@Chromiumblue Have never heard of a hanging guard? lol
Pretty much everything you said there is incorrect mate, I don't even know where one would come up with such a notion as the sabre not being a good in the cut, I'm scared to ask but do you have source for such a claim?
@@lukemcinerny8220 I apologize, I neglected to mention that a sabre with no edge is optimum on horseback, riding at full speed with the weight of the horse and the rider using striking motions.
@@Chromiumblue source?
Remember the sword as always been primarily a side arm, if you needed a weapon to use against an armored opponent you'd use a war hammer, a mace or some type of pole arm.
The only thing I can think of that is like a sword with no edge you'd use from horse back is an Estoc which was a thrusting weapon used famously by polish winged hussars but they carried like at least 4 weapons into battle one of which was an edged sabre as well, there is also the sword/Estoc used french cuirassiers but again they only trhusted with them so they struggled in defending against allied cavalry with conventional sabres which where sharp very sharp lol
sabre-rattling LOL
Nice mortal combat moves LOL
Thumbnail look so fucking wrong and the title with it.
Nice chem trails. Must be SoCal