Machining Hole Patterns in Stoker Engine Fixture Plate
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- I'm building a large fixture plate to be used in my G&E shaper. This fixture will then be used to allow the stoker engine to bolt to since it's footprint is much larger than the shaper table. This fixture will also be used for any other type of large work holding needs in the future.
My Amazon store: www.amazon.com...
Official Abom79 Merch store www.storefront...
My Amazon Storefront where you'll find many of the tools and products I use in and out of the shop.
www.amazon.com...
Paypal Channel Donation: www.paypal.com...
Support though Patreon: / abom79
My second UA-cam channel where I share my cooking, grilling, BBQ , travel, and explorations.
Abom Adventures / @abomadventures
Thank you Adam, for all you do so many years in the machinist community. Great.
You ain't boring us, Adam your'e doing an expert job of boring that plate instead! Also that skyhook crane really is put through the wringer - can see the flex , but it handles it well!Take care and stay safe guys, greetings from the UK!
Love watching you work. Careful, methodical, efficient and accurate. The paradigm!
Beeing from Norway / Europe I'm amazed at how well he has his 5/8th's 55/24s 3/16s 44/33s and 3 quarters of a fifth of a third... All in his head. That is commitment for you. (I'm joking guy's, probably something you learn when only working with imperial measurements all your life.)
It's SAE, not imperial, and yeah you get good at fractions. Although, except for drill sizes most things in machining are measured in thous (thousandths of an inch)
Can’t wait for the shaper to take some cuts on the engine that will be an interesting set up and tool for sure!
I like when you give beginner tips. I come from more of a CNC background, but it is always helpful to know how to do stuff the manual way and use some tools I am not familiar with.
Cool video Adam, I appreciate your time with explaining for us novices. It's interesting how others tell you how there is a 'better way' like you just started doing it yesterday...
I'm a second year apprentice in Germany and your remark in regards to your counterbore tool being too large with a 1" diameter for a 15/16 hole made me curious about the American size that would be correct.
I am always on the look out to learn more, so out of curiousity I looked up the German standard:
A 15/16 cap screw would be about an M16 screw with a 23,8 mm head, which would receive a 26 mm or 1" countersink.
Your channel got me interested in metalworking by the way and inspired me to become a precision mechanik.
I like how you often explain what you are going to do, it has taught me a lot already and I am looking forwards to learn more.
Thank you! :)
If you're interested in CNC machining I can recommend the channel "Edge Precision"
You are not just a Master Craftsman, you are a spatial genius, and a polite guy on top of all that!!
Not a machinist, but I can see how the Sky Hook and that magnetic lifting device allows those Abom size parts to become manageable. Always enjoy watching you work.
My only suggestion would be for Adam to make a lockable rotating adapter for between the hook and chain on that Sky Hook so that if and when needed he can unlock and rotate whilst connected to Sky Hook rather than having to lower onto trolley - if these heavy lift jobs are going to be regular.
HTH
Adam, the “Norm Abrams” of metal working! Great job!
I like those 'changeable pilot' counterbores!
Same counterbore for different size holes.
Easily my favorite journey on UA-cam!
A great testament to the quality of the Sky Hook
Adam sets a high standard for a skillful and decent man
Thank you. I hadn't thought of that way to find a true center. I usually use a small bit and see if it deflects but your way is much better so truly appreciated. Now I just need to buy myself that setup.
Looking forward to seeing this work on the stoker engine.
The right tool for the job makes every task that much more precise.
And therefore a radial drill press is the right choice here😅
A whole episode to drill 8 holes? I miss the good old days on this channel.
Use fast forward if you pass your boredom threshold tbh. You might miss some interesting detail, but who cares?
Agreed. This channel used to be all machining and the proper methodology. Over the last year it's more about extolling the virtues of certain tooling and products, many of which are provided free of charge by the maker, coupled with vacation experiences. I have already cancelled my subscription to one channel that did much the same thing and I am thinking about doing the same here.
@@oh8wingman look on my channel
@@oh8wingman This channel was also showing a lot of work he did when he used to work for Motion. Those types of jobs are not likely to happen very much now that Adam has gone solo. I don't see any problem. Don't let the door hit you on the way out.
Good to see the Bridgeport Mill being used. I use WD40 to drill that type and size of hole.
DoAll mill...
I thought it was a bridgeport, maybe DoAll just badged them up. Hi from Buxton.
Bridgeport clone. It’s a DoAll, made in Taiwan
Between you and Keith, I must have 8 hours into this job.
Never had Sky Hook back in my day. I use to love to watch the tool and die makers in our shop. They were the "elite"! The rest of us were just machine operators.
A sky hook along with a long stand and elbow grease are old tradition fictional tools and stuff for send green apprentices to go and get.
I love that Abbey is willing to get in there and shoot some of those handheld shots for you! That's a great partnership!
Love this channel,never miss an episode.
Fantastic content and I loved every minute of it! The accuracy via trained eyes and layouts is cool.
Regarding the tool trays: Fill the back side with epoxy or polyester resin (composite resin, not body filler). You can use fine gravel as a filler so that you don't need so much resin.
I do this with the flimsy vacuum molded styrene trays you get in today's tool kits - it turns the flimsy tray into a tray that will last forever.
Its full joy for me watch you working and learn.
I have a Starrett wiggler set. This is the first time I've seen how the pointer tool is meant to be used. Thank you!
I know a guy that has a Carlton that would have been perfect for this job.
I think I'm gonna invest in one of them skyhook type cranes, I always laughed at um, but last weekend i pulled my back out heaving a large cube while setting up a casting to be machined on my bridgeport mill.
The Skyhook seems to be working really well and being able to attach it to the bed of the various machines makes it really handy. As for the lift cart, there are two types of people, those who have one and those who need one and that goes for even if you aren't doing machining. The 1 ton ones lift high enough to line up with a lot of pickup beds.
Definitely going to grab one of those wigglers for my drill press. More precision than I need, but will help correct for my lack of skill since I don't use it for metal that often. Great tip.
Never be tempted to use a finger to get the wiggler to run true, I will not reveal how I know that.
Very nice. Thanks Abom
I have one of those little wiggler sets, now I know how to use the pointed end! (came to me from my grandfathers tools)
Adam, know for some reason, people do not mention Doubleboost. But he uses that type of centerfielder all the time. Cool way to quickly get located in.
Looks like your beautiful Miss Abby helping at the end. Great Video Adam
Just got done drooling over SCAT Chevy 383 rotating assemblies on their website, and what do I see in my YT notifications? Adam doing cool stuff. What's not to love about the WIGGLER? I know in the CNC world all that stuff is taken from (0, 0) and indexed, but something special about old school machining.
0'man that...Skyhook is the berry's right there.....Saves the back and all....Thanks very much...
all those material handling gadgets are really coming in handy. for years i have used the pointed edge finder to center up holes for drilling. i drop the pointer into the center punch and let it sit there while you adjust the table you can feel the slightest misalignment with your finger nail. i dont trust the wiggler because the point can take a set when you drop it into the centerpunch . you really need to recenter it ever time you hit the center punch to be sure its still on center.
The wiggler is actually really easy to see when it is dead on center. The tip appears to stand still and stop spinning. The slightest bit off from being off center and it "blurs." Try them side-by-side sometime and I bet you can't tell the difference. I find the pointed end of the edge finder is useful if I have to locate off a small hole that is already there. The wiggler with pointy tip is useless then and the edge-finder with pointy tip works very well. So many ways to skin a cat.
@@utidjian i guess its its all a mater of taste David. both will get the job done. i had a tool and die maker friend who would use sewing needles stuck into a blob of clay at the end of a milling cutter he would start the machine and center the needle like a wiggler and use it to pick up features on his work.
@@larrysperling8801 Oh for sure it is a matter of taste. I guess that is why there is a still a market for edge finders, wigglers, optical centering scopes, DROs, dials, Blakes, DTIs, layout plates and tables, surface gages, height gages, CMMs, electronic probes, rulers, scales, hook rules, gage blocks... and dozens more that I have forgotten or I am too lazy to type in. I never used the needle and clay method though I have heard of it. It has the distinct advantage that one does not have to swap out the wiggler for the tool each time. Also easy if the spindle speed is low or can be lowered easily.
I have to say you do amazing work sir I only wish I lived near you to have some barrels threaded
This is some of your best closeup photography ever. Beautiful stuff, great color and light.
Fascinating !! 👍 ✔️👍
Man that skyhook is the bomb'
Gotta have me one or two, I restore old machinery and sale some once in a while, great job man.
... is the Abom'
Great video Adam. Thank you for sharing your work. I hope to one day at least be half the machinist that you are.
love your wiggler!
Hi Adam, great video. Yes, maybe boring to the know it alls, but i love how you go into detail on how to use things. I never knew how to use a wiggler set, I did see it on facebook, but this is the full video. I would have liked to see just how close you got to being center on those holes, just to know.
I thought you were going to do those holes on the K&T for some reason.
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
Aangenaame kenis! Bly versigtig.
Use tape to clean your magnets.
Now thats a great idea!!!
@@StreuB1 Good electrical tape works great.
@@WarpFactor999 Doesn't matter which tape. Just giving my 2 cents.
I enjoy watching your videos Adam.
Too bad the radial drill wasn't in action. It would have been perfect for that job.
Scary. I thought the Sky Hook was going to pop the cast iron T slots on the bed of the mill.
I just turn a pilot to the clearance hole size so I don't have to drill for the bolt size followed by the clearance size.
Thats what i was thinking...never seen it done like that before
Hi. I have a bunch of counterdrills whit the fix pilot. U can't change. But what I have, almost always has the wrong pilot . So I make something like Adam. Or the print request other clearance then the pilot
I liked your use of the wiggler for centering- very skillfiul.
a good way to remove dust and steel particles from the magnet is any kind of adhesive tape.
Thanks for showing us the hole story 😉
Good job Adam, bought ready to put it to work.👍👍👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Excellent Work As Always.................................
Brilliant 👍🏼
meticulous work as always mate. thanks for the upload.
Fascinating Adam great job 👏
Nicely done!!Cheers!
Hi Adam, Got here from Trenton and Heath! Glad to have found you!
I need to get one of those sky lifts for my truck lol
perfect job opportunity for your radial arm drill. just sayin .
Even using the prybar to get the plate up you should really be using some sort of a push bar to get the parallel under. I was told long ago by a guy missing the tip of a finger "never stick your finger anywhere you wouldn't stuck your pecker" 😂
I'm sure the skyhook can handle the load, wouldn't the t-slot be the weak link?
i like the sky hook
Google it along with 'long stand' and 'elbow grease'.
Excellent content Adam.
Thanks for sharing!
Who'd a thought the sound of boring steel would be so pleasureable!!
oh! ok just me!
Adam why didn't you use your electromagnetic drill instead?
Hi Adam, I think the Sky Hook needs a larger diameter handwheel. It looks like the small wheel is hard to turn with that weight on it, and knowing you don't do too many light small jobs either.
I'd assume the hand wheel is that size so you don't overload the unit.
It has a gearbox ... 🙄
Might I request, if you're going to break jobs into so many episodes that you release more during the week? Even if they're only 10/15 minutes, it would be higher quality content imo. I'm sure there are plenty of people that would complain if you didn't show every hole drilled and tapped individually. Which is why maybe putting out 2, 3, or 4 videos in a week might be better for others. Unless you really are doing this job on a weekly/weekend basis, in that case I totally understand why you don't. But I guess it also depends on how much you record and the time it might take to edit hours of filming a day. So, it's just a suggestion, obviously I'd still watch either way so...
Use compressed air or sticky tape to remove chips from magnet.
Compressed air!!! Gasp! Someone find Mr Pete and have him bring a stake and some matches, we have a heretic!
@0:55 150%. You're welcome
I'd like to see the wiggler action better: may i suggest a small mirror on the side, to see the other angle also?
Oh Adam.. I know you know what you are doing, but when you put your fingers under that big plate, I got really scared.
If you recheck the video you'll see he used his fingers on the vertical face of each parallel to push them into position. At no time were his fingers between the top of the parallel and the plate. SOP when lifting anything heavy is to not place yourself or any body parts under the object being lifted without something that will support the load if it drops.
Oh, Now I see. You are right.
It impressed me because I've lost one of my finger tips and believe me... its not fun at all. Months of pain, literally.
That plate's size is right at the limit for your setup.
@Jim H Not the weight, the dimensions he had to work to get it on to and off of the cart.
AB, we gotta have an update on the radial drill
Would be an interesting experiment to measure if and by how much that skyhook is flexing the mill table. Doubt it could do any damage but its definitely not the type of load the bed was intended to take.
Do you plan to put it on the shaper to flatten the plate
Air hose blow guns get chips off a magnet really nice.
Many edge finders, such as B&S have a point on the opposite end of the .200 side that is typically used for edge finding. I never see anyone use this feature. Adam, what are your thoughts. Not a criticism in any way, just something I've wondered about. I dont have a wiggler or a Blake. I've made many plates like that on a radial using only layout lines and a dead center, big Ooya radial drill. Thanks for the video, Will
26:36 Oil is cheap, cutters ain't. Like seein that baby swimming in cutting oil!
Suggestion to all, for every commonly used tap make up a wooden block and drill holes to take that tap set plus is tapping drill plus it's clearance drill plus the counter bore for the cap screw used for that taped hole, saves a ton of time and you always certain to have the correct sizes on hand that are only used for that tap/bolt size, drill bits are cheap compared to shop hour rate
I have my gigantic chart hanging in front of my face. It's another way to approach the issue.
Thanks, this is such good information for a beginner. Would you cut a large counterbore in the same way? Let’s say for a hex head bolt, and allowing clearance for a socket.
That certainly could be done in similar manner. It might require 2 or more counterbore steps to open up far enough for a hex head and socket.
the counterbore itself can be done with a centercutting end mill
Instead of drilling a smaller hole for the bigger one . I think you could get away with out the smaller by making a crankshaft split on the chisel. The drill should center itself better too .
Nice job Adam, but I have a question: why would you not tap the holes right after drilling them? Everything was lined up and it would seem to be more efficient to tap the holes in the same setup as the drilling.
You gave some great explanations of basic layout methods and how to use the centre-finder wiggler to align the spindle with the punch divot. I also really liked the optical punch unit and those neat little trays.
(@9:57) - So THAT’s how you change the belts on it! 😎
Thanks for pointing that out. My Rockwell mill is the same way but has hex head bolts instead of bolts with a handles. I think I’m going to custom make two bolts with handles to speed things up on my mill.
@@shadowdog500 I ran a Rockwell mil for 14 years. Mine had little handles on the bolts for the motor mount plate. Just about a half turn was enought to loosen it so it could be shifted to change the speeds. They were the same style all over the mill. Same as the locks for axes. The Rockwell is an excellent mill within its class. I wouldn't mind having one again.
@@utidjian Thanks for pointing that out. I just looked at photos of other Rockwell mills and agree that the motor plate bolts are the same levers as the axis locks. Looks like I found a small project to do for my mill. Thanks.
@@shadowdog500 Just a quick note before I go to work. I found your channel and your walkthrough on your Rockwell (nice looking mill.) Yes, they X and Y axes on your has the correct (stock) locks. The Z seems to be missing the plain round end handle. The quill lock handle is not stock but I like it :D It would be a simple project to make some up on the lathe and mill. What lathe do you have there? Looks like it might be a Jet (or one of the bazillion Taiwanese variations.) I will move over to your channel for any more comments.
@@utidjian The z just has a bolt in the hole. I’ll probably upgrade that when I do the motor bolts. You are correct on the lathe, it is one of the Taiwanese lathes that sold as a Jet and a bunch of other names. Mine is an MSC 1136B. It has an 11” swing which is sufficient for me. Mine is the older model with the 60mm by 8 TPI thread on the headstock. It is difficult to impossible to find backing plates for this lathe. I actually found the lathe on Craigslist and when I called and talked to the guy he asked me if I wanted the Mill that he hadn’t listed yet. I wound up buying them both at the same time.
No need to justify the skyhook all of the time, you can’t please everyone, they are just jealous that they didn’t think of it themselves, it’s a great idea.
Adam you are my favorite UA-cam machinist but the whole video on drilling holes....
19:44 interesting effects on that DRO screen. I assume it's the camera almost syncing with the screen refresh.
Yes, it is the same effect that makes wheels and propellers or rotors e.g. on helicopters look like not moving or spinning backwards. LEDs usually flicker, also we do not usually see this due to either the frequency or some kind of inertia in some LEDs (mainly those that use chemical coatings to create a certain color, but actually it is 99 % frequency)
If the camera shutter is not synched exactly to the LED frequency they will flicker. same with fluorescent lamps. sometimes depending on the chip type in the camera you may also see those brighter and darker stripes vertically rolling through the picture. To avoid that effect you would have to run the LEDs on actual DC (which is rare) or use a shutter speed that is slower than the cycle for the LED.
In the LEDs this flicker is usually generated by how the LEDs are driven, or more exactly which power supply is used. In the simplest case (most LED light bulb) it is just a capacitive dropper, that more or less cuts the AC sine wave in half, so you will find frequencies related to the AC frequency, 60 Hz for the US and Canada, and 50 Hz in Europe for example.
Better capacitive power supplies invert the "negative" partof the sine wave so we get double the frequency. Only the "inertia" of our eyes allows us to not usually see a flicker.
Incandescent bulbs flicker at twice the AC frequency as well as the currents sine wave peaks at positive and negative and in between crosses zero. it is just that the actual glowing of the filament wil dampen the flicker as it does not cool down fast enough to make it visible.
Some LED drivers use smoothing capacitors to generate such an effect.
Less an issue are switch mode power supplies. those internaly use a chip to change the frequency to something in the range of 30 kHz, which allows a lot smaller transformers to be used. To capture that flicker you would have to borrow a camera from the slow mo guys to make it visible.
Have you tried taking the magnet outside and blasting the swarth off it with shop air? I don’t know it if it will work with that large magnet, but it works with my smaller magnets.
Quality duct tape works wonders for cleaning magnets as well
Those drill bits and tool trays are not injection molded, they're vacuum molded I think. nifty nonetheless.
Nice!! Great precision...back saver... :-)
Intro sound is only out of right channel Adam.
*10:55* _Are you sure those trays aren't vacu-formed?_
Heh ... I was thinkin that.. 🤫
I'm sure Adam knows .. just a slip of the tongue.. 😏
Question Adam, what could happen to the drilling of the pilot holes if you didn't spotface first?
This is a good question. Spotfacing helps ensure that the pilot drill stays vertical and doesn't "walk" or bend, which results in a non-vertical or oval hole.
At 6:44 Adam gives us a great head on view of the larger drill bit where you can see the "flat" section in the middle. With a small pilot drill that can bend, that small flat spot may cause the bit to skid over the material surface before digging in and starting the hole. By spotfacing and providing a countersink for the pilot drill to match up with, you know it will start drilling in the right location.
I don't know if we see the tip of the spotting drill in this video, but from what it looks like based on the chips and how pretty the countersink looks, is Adam has a special grind on his spotting drill where that center flat on the tip is removed, essentially the two flutes meet perfectly in the middle. It is also relatively wide and short which helps with rigidity, again helping ensure that the countersink it leaves is centered in the correct location.
We use center drills a lot at work, which serve the same purpose but only have one flute and a stepped grind. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/CenterDrills123456.jpg/400px-CenterDrills123456.jpg
any reason to use vertical mill versus mag drill ?
Mag drills are usually fixed speed, wouldn't want to use that counter bore tool in that one, at least I wouldn't.
Adam, that plate may be under 500 pounds but the magnet has to be included in how much the skyhook can lift. I speak from experience having watched someone lift a 5 ton load with a 5 ton cane. They forgot they had a 2500 pound lifting device hanging on the hook too. Result wasn't pretty.
I bet that wasn't pretty. It is amazing how much people forget that the load includes everything that is being lifted not just what is attached to the hook.
@Jim H One could say the same about you Jim. The man is simply offering some advice and no one is perfect.
@Jim H Sorry you would lose on that one. I'm a chemist by education and a stay at home dad/handyman/jack of all master of none by trade. My wife's an engineer though so maybe it is rubbing off :) Have a great evening and rest of your weekend/2020