Thanks for the tips I have to repin a HK for the new barrel and I’ve never done it before and was trying to come up with a good set up. I think this is what I needed to switch up my plan.
Great looking setup. My drill press has so much flex in it I’m having a hard time drilling my barrel pins. I usually have to oversize them and use your .302” pin. Someday I’ll get a mini mill and that alone with a setup like this should make life a little easier. Thanks.
Very informative as usual. I have just recently started building again my self. This ti.e is different though. I have purchased a industrial lathe and virtical mill for my home shop. Steppin up my game.
Hey Mel Great Video. Like the mill. Going build a setup like yours. Have been using the V block method since I saw your first video on this subject. Works 90 % but sometimes get a little bit of egging. Then I go through with the .302 pin and it cleans the egg up. Harold
@@Mel64d I have a non related question which I'm sure you can answer. I have a receiver ready to go for a triangle stock side folder kyber pass build. I need to know if there's a difference in the 5.5mm and the 4.5 mm stock setup and which one I need to order for my build? Any info would be appreciated,thankyou
Jer Harr The two stocks will both mount flush to a receiver but will have a 2 degree angle difference. The Russian 5.5 mm trunnion holes are slightly different from the Bulgarian 4.5mm trunnion. Both trunnions will rivet into the same holes, but if you mount a 5.5 trunnion into a receiver with 4.5 hole pattern there will be a gap at the bottom of the receiver between the trunnion and receiver. So if you buy a receiver with the holes for the rear trunnion already drilled, then buy/use the correct trunnion and stock, or buy/drill trunnion holes for the stock you are using/have.
I was drilling a hole into the barrel to screw the lower receiver to the front truion. Now I have decided to have the front truion riveted to the lower receiver. Can the barrel be repaired by mig welded the hole and having the front truion pressed onto the barrel?
So, Mel, are you still beginning with a normal 7mm drill, and then finishing with a reamer? Or have you started to go in with an undersized end mill, and finishing with a reamer? This is a bloody fantastic set up, though. Nothing scares me more in AK building than drill the barrel pin. I'm stuck with a soddy HF drill press, and it's gotten good results when I don't just make a completely bone head mistake. But I quest for anything that will enhance my success rate. This looks very promising to try.
Hey Mel, when I spot weld my bolt carrier rails in I use the harbor freight 120 V spot welder. I always seem to have a problem with the welds being too weak, I clean all the metal up really good, I just put a 240 V outlet in my garage for my 60 gallon air compressor I’m thinking of getting a 240 V spot welder, do you think that will be an improvement on the welds? And what volt spot welder do you use?
I know its been awhile since your comment and you probably already figured out your rail issue but Mel uses the 120V harbor freight. Should be plenty fine to spot weld them rails in.
Drilling for the barrel pin has been my biggest problem. It takes me forever to line everything up on a drill press, Knock on wood I haven’t screwed one up where I couldn’t fix it with a over size pin. How much smaller are your guide pins than your barrel pin?
It can be done that way (on an akm) if the builder so desires. Head space should be done with the bolt and carrier to allow for proper alignment and contact of the bolts lugs to the locking lugs of the breech block (trunnion). So having the front trunnion riveted into the receiver first allows for the proper alignment just as the factory would do it. Also, think about a milled receiver. There is no head spacing with the front trunnion out because there is no "front trunnion' it's all one part. In my opinion, the barrel pin should not be drilled until the breech block (trunnion of an akm) is riveted into the receiver. Drilling the barrel pin hole then removing the barrel and re pressing it back into the trunnion hoping to get the alignment back perfect is sometimes a headache.
Hi Mel, Great video once again. If I go with the AK builder 12.5” barrel do I have to go to a shorter piston and tube like an AMD system? I’m probably going to go to the JMac gas block/ front site. If I could use either. Which one in your opinion would be best?
Forthe Hellofit Not sure if I’m remembering correctly, but I think the amd’s have a shorter gas tube. So you would need the amd gas piston. All my pistol builds use an amd barrel with the amd piston. If you chop (before install on pistol build) a 16” akm barrel down to 12.5” you can still use the normal gas tube and piston with a combo gas block.
Im definitely going today get a new barrel. Looking at the ballistic differences between 14,5 and 12.5 I figured may as well go with the shorter. AoA has those BCGs on sale with piston on it ready to go.
I have a v-block in the vise holding the barrel. They can be purchased from any Industrial Supply house or made if you have the materials and equipment to do so.
Hey Mel, Is that the G0704? If so how are you liking it? I'm looking at the G0704 or a Precision Matthews PM727 a little higher quality and a touch bigger. I'm still on the fence about them.
I have the G0759 with the DRO and stand. So far it's been great for this. If I have something that requires more serious milling, I will just take it to work.
@@Mel64d I believe the G0759 is very close to the size of the Precision Matthews I'm looking at. Would you say with a little finesse they can handle most operations an Ak would throw at them? I do have access to larger machines if needed. I appreciate the response Mel I hope we keep seeing you around!
Do have one other question I noticed in some of your other videos you have a small metal square Did you make that or did you buy it I've been trying to find one like that.
Thanks for the tips I have to repin a HK for the new barrel and I’ve never done it before and was trying to come up with a good set up. I think this is what I needed to switch up my plan.
Great looking setup. My drill press has so much flex in it I’m having a hard time drilling my barrel pins. I usually have to oversize them and use your .302” pin. Someday I’ll get a mini mill and that alone with a setup like this should make life a little easier. Thanks.
Very informative as usual. I have just recently started building again my self. This ti.e is different though. I have purchased a industrial lathe and virtical mill for my home shop. Steppin up my game.
Always like yor tips and tricks. thanks!
Hey Mel
Great Video. Like the mill. Going build a setup like yours. Have been using the V block method since I saw your first video on this subject. Works 90 % but sometimes get a little bit of egging. Then I go through with the .302 pin and it cleans the egg up.
Harold
I just when nice an slow with a flat tipped end mill bit, pin snugged in perfectly.
Welcome back!!!!! Long time no see! Glad to see your back! Great Video again!
I have a few videos I’m filming now. Just takes time when you’re doing it all by yourself.
@@Mel64d I have a non related question which I'm sure you can answer. I have a receiver ready to go for a triangle stock side folder kyber pass build. I need to know if there's a difference in the 5.5mm and the 4.5 mm stock setup and which one I need to order for my build? Any info would be appreciated,thankyou
Jer Harr The two stocks will both mount flush to a receiver but will have a 2 degree angle difference. The Russian 5.5 mm trunnion holes are slightly different from the Bulgarian 4.5mm trunnion. Both trunnions will rivet into the same holes, but if you mount a 5.5 trunnion into a receiver with 4.5 hole pattern there will be a gap at the bottom of the receiver between the trunnion and receiver. So if you buy a receiver with the holes for the rear trunnion already drilled, then buy/use the correct trunnion and stock, or buy/drill trunnion holes for the stock you are using/have.
@@Mel64d thankyou very much! That definitely cleared up everything! Have a great day!
Thanks Mel, very usefull video. Perfect.
I was drilling a hole into the barrel to screw the lower receiver to the front truion. Now I have decided to have the front truion riveted to the lower receiver. Can the barrel be repaired by mig welded the hole and having the front truion pressed onto the barrel?
So, Mel, are you still beginning with a normal 7mm drill, and then finishing with a reamer? Or have you started to go in with an undersized end mill, and finishing with a reamer? This is a bloody fantastic set up, though. Nothing scares me more in AK building than drill the barrel pin. I'm stuck with a soddy HF drill press, and it's gotten good results when I don't just make a completely bone head mistake. But I quest for anything that will enhance my success rate. This looks very promising to try.
Hi subscriber and i have problem My Russian ak 1975
Modle underfolder and I want to convert said folding so please give me solution please
Hey Mel, when I spot weld my bolt carrier rails in I use the harbor freight 120 V spot welder. I always seem to have a problem with the welds being too weak, I clean all the metal up really good, I just put a 240 V outlet in my garage for my 60 gallon air compressor I’m thinking of getting a 240 V spot welder, do you think that will be an improvement on the welds? And what volt spot welder do you use?
I know its been awhile since your comment and you probably already figured out your rail issue but Mel uses the 120V harbor freight. Should be plenty fine to spot weld them rails in.
Drilling for the barrel pin has been my biggest problem. It takes me forever to line everything up on a drill press, Knock on wood I haven’t screwed one up where I couldn’t fix it with a over size pin. How much smaller are your guide pins than your barrel pin?
Good video mel64D 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you Warsaw
What is that block with pin in it made of
Thank you!🇺🇸
So are you offering a build service, please?
Just curious, why would you not headspace the barrel before riveting the trunnion into the receiver?
It can be done that way (on an akm) if the builder so desires. Head space should be done with the bolt and carrier to allow for proper alignment and contact of the bolts lugs to the locking lugs of the breech block (trunnion). So having the front trunnion riveted into the receiver first allows for the proper alignment just as the factory would do it. Also, think about a milled receiver. There is no head spacing with the front trunnion out because there is no "front trunnion' it's all one part.
In my opinion, the barrel pin should not be drilled until the breech block (trunnion of an akm) is riveted into the receiver. Drilling the barrel pin hole then removing the barrel and re pressing it back into the trunnion hoping to get the alignment back perfect is sometimes a headache.
I like the set up. Anyway you can make one for sale?
I do not make jigs for sale, sorry.
@@Mel64d Hi, i want to bay a drilling machine from harbor freight tool, which one should i bay 8" - 5 speed,or 10" 12 speed for AK47 build. Thank you!
@@МаркЛинкольн-ц3ы Never used any of the Harbor Freight setups. Bigger the better but It’s best to get one that can do variable speeds.
@@Mel64d Well, thank you.
Miss ya buddy
Hi Mel, Great video once again.
If I go with the AK builder 12.5” barrel do I have to go to a shorter piston and tube like an AMD system? I’m probably going to go to the JMac gas block/ front site. If I could use either. Which one in your opinion would be best?
Forthe Hellofit Not sure if I’m remembering correctly, but I think the amd’s have a shorter gas tube. So you would need the amd gas piston. All my pistol builds use an amd barrel with the amd piston. If you chop (before install on pistol build) a 16” akm barrel down to 12.5” you can still use the normal gas tube and piston with a combo gas block.
Im definitely going today get a new barrel. Looking at the ballistic differences between 14,5 and 12.5 I figured may as well go with the shorter. AoA has those BCGs on sale with piston on it ready to go.
Thanks for another great video. What's the vise that's holding your barrel? Purchased or homemade?
I have a v-block in the vise holding the barrel. They can be purchased from any Industrial Supply house or made if you have the materials and equipment to do so.
@@Mel64d Thank you 👍🏼
Hey Mel, Is that the G0704? If so how are you liking it? I'm looking at the G0704 or a Precision Matthews PM727 a little higher quality and a touch bigger. I'm still on the fence about them.
I have the G0759 with the DRO and stand. So far it's been great for this. If I have something that requires more serious milling, I will just take it to work.
@@Mel64d I believe the G0759 is very close to the size of the Precision Matthews I'm looking at. Would you say with a little finesse they can handle most operations an Ak would throw at them? I do have access to larger machines if needed. I appreciate the response Mel I hope we keep seeing you around!
where do get the pin setup? Great video to.
Can't buy them. I made this myself.
@@Mel64d okay thanks for the reply plan on making any more anytime soon LoL
@@tommyscott7638 No, I only make tools and jigs to help make building easier for myself, not for sale. Sorry.
Not a problem Don't blame you I'll have to make one myself Thanks for all the info though.
Do have one other question I noticed in some of your other videos you have a small metal square Did you make that or did you buy it I've been trying to find one like that.
I love this man!
What "mini mill" is it?
It is the Grizzly G0759 with digital read out and stand.
@@Mel64d cool thanks
What size dowels are those
7mm
👍👍 Thanks for sharing that with us.
Thanks for watching Matteo
Mini Mill? Aw man... if I had that I wouldn't have to look for a video in how to drill and pin a barrel by myself.
Nummy!