Hello, after your feedback on the P51, how should we place the battery (lipo 3S 850mAh) to obtain the center of gravity recommended by the manufacturer? Thanks
at 9:39 I clearly show where I have the battery located for the CG I am using 66mm the range of the CG is shown in the video and you can play with the location of the battery and CG to get it right - I no longer have this aircraft as I purchased the FMS 800mm Mustang which I think is a better aircraft.
If it Still stays nose heavy could you put lead extensions on the spektrum rx then move it in front of the lipo. And move the lipo back... Them rx are superb
Might try this clear coat option. Would you recommend to remove all clear tape on the plane first then clear coat it? My plane seems to have a lot of it! Also the stickers look they are applied with clear tape too. What rig are you using to hold the plane? Think I need one of them too. Cheers.
Sorry I am not sure what you mean when you say "clear tape" ? - I just spray all over the decals included - the stand I use can be purchased from ebay - Mine is the adjustable type - they do a fixed type as well... let me know what you mean regarding the "Clear Tape"..
@@FlankerTanker ahh I mean sellotape or scotch tape. My plane has it on all the hinges and also the decals are stuck on with it. Would be a real pain removing them all before coating then having to apply new tape
I have an option as far as glossy clear coat here in the US. Johnson & Johnson Mop and Glow floor polish!!!!! First off it's water based, scratch resistant, and if you remove your canopy you can actually dip the canopy in it then let drip dry. When dry it looks more glass like and not so much toy like. There are several videos on using Mop & glow by professional scale airplane model builders. Hopefully this helps.
I say, great job, Man! I have some questions, if you don't mind... I assume that clear coat is safe enough not eat up the paint or foam? We don't have that brand here in the U.S.. Would you be kind enough to give some info as to the ingredients in the can? Perhaps I can try to locate a brand with similar properties. Also, does it dry with a glossy or dull coat? I couldn't tell for surel. Lastly, did you use any particular technique to apply it? Thanks so much for any clarification... Liked, subscribed and cheers from Los Angeles!
Hi - ref your questions - 1. I assume that clear coat is safe enough not eat up the paint or foam? - A1. Yes it is .. 2. We don't have that brand here in the U.S.. A2. I know a lot of people in the US and they use a brand called MinWax Polycrylic - I don't think it is a pray its brushed on using those Foam headed brushes. 3. does it dry with a glossy or dull coat? - 3A. Depends on which type you buy - it comes (MInWax Polycrylic ) in Matt, Silk or Gloss - I like the Gloss finish 4. did you use any particular technique to apply it? 4A. for a spray application - its necessary to spray from a distance of about 20 to 25cm from the surface - start the spray away from the surface and then move it over the surface in one single movement and direction keep spraying until you are clear of the surface again then stop - and repeat on the unsprayed surface, do one side at a time and let it dry then turn it over and do the next - you can do more than one coat, it is best to cover up the cockpit as it WILL mist when the clear coat dries. with MinWax try not to shake it up - it will create small bubbles that are hard to remove if you do - also for both types of application be in a well ventilated area and wear a mask.
I would just add that if you go for the spray can option the Clear Coat spray MUST be water based -or- Acrylic based (most Acrylic clear coats ARE Water based.
@@FlankerTanker Wow, an immediately reply. Thank you Sir for your informative comments! I will shop around for the Minwax as you suggested and will also be ordering the Hawker and P-51 from Hobby King today. Cheers from Los Angeles!
I just got this model from HK, and it's all built. But I'm having issues connecting the gyro to my Spektrum receiver. The leads coming out of the gyro are single wire leads, and I'm not sure how to connect them to the receiver, as iI've been used to the standard 3 prong servo connecters. Any help in my receiver/gyro connection would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
the white wires coming out from the Gyro (single wires) need to connect to the SIGNAL Pin for each of the Channels - Most Spektrum RX's will have a tiny moulding showing +, -, s - the "s" is the signal pin.. FYI - I sold mine and purchase the FMS 800mm P51 - I think the FMS one is build and fly's better than the HK one - which is an old TOP Rc one with an added ORX Stab, Also found they fly much better without all the attachments on the bottom , Fuel tanks and landing gear - Hand Launch and Belly land... Good Luck - and enjoy...
@@FlankerTanker Thank you for your timely reply. Works like a charm now. Looking forward to my maiden. I'll also check out the FMS 800mm P-51. It looks really scale, and the pilot they got the livery from was one whose stories I enjoyed very much. Thanks again!
Greetings. I have this plane from some weeks now and i made some ruff landings on high grass and the motor came loose. Any idea how can enforce him to be fixed. I am a beginner, it s my first plane. Thank you in dvanced. A good day to you !!
HI - I would like to Suggest that this is NOT a good aircraft as your first - Would be OK for a second or third but I would not recommend it as your first - I would need to know a lot more about how it came loose , mounter mount, plywood wall it bolts onto - as depending on that will depend how it can be fixed - for example has the motor just come free from its metal mount or has the metal mount come free from the wood or has the wood, metal mount and motor all come away from the foam.. sorry but without more information I am unable to help and anything I say would only be based on a guess...
Hi yah Just been talking to tallguysrc he built one a while ago. He had to weigh the nose down.... Check him out on YT a bit more info won't do any harm Brian
Took a look - but it seems he added weight as he was using 2 cell Lipo - I am using the recommended 3 cell LIPOs - so I should not need to add weight - I think I have the CoG in the correct place and the battery is right next to the RX at the cockpit end.. so we shall see .....
I'm having your CG problem right now. Iv had to add 10kg on the tail
I am sure you mean 10g...not 10kg
Hello, after your feedback on the P51, how should we place the battery (lipo 3S 850mAh) to obtain the center of gravity recommended by the manufacturer?
Thanks
at 9:39 I clearly show where I have the battery located for the CG I am using 66mm the range of the CG is shown in the video and you can play with the location of the battery and CG to get it right - I no longer have this aircraft as I purchased the FMS 800mm Mustang which I think is a better aircraft.
If it Still stays nose heavy could you put lead extensions on the spektrum rx then move it in front of the lipo. And move the lipo back... Them rx are superb
Another good idea to try - we shall see and I will report in the maiden video...
Might try this clear coat option. Would you recommend to remove all clear tape on the plane first then clear coat it? My plane seems to have a lot of it! Also the stickers look they are applied with clear tape too. What rig are you using to hold the plane? Think I need one of them too. Cheers.
Sorry I am not sure what you mean when you say "clear tape" ? - I just spray all over the decals included - the stand I use can be purchased from ebay - Mine is the adjustable type - they do a fixed type as well... let me know what you mean regarding the "Clear Tape"..
@@FlankerTanker ahh I mean sellotape or scotch tape. My plane has it on all the hinges and also the decals are stuck on with it. Would be a real pain removing them all before coating then having to apply new tape
I have an option as far as glossy clear coat here in the US.
Johnson & Johnson Mop and Glow floor polish!!!!!
First off it's water based, scratch resistant, and if you remove your canopy you can actually dip the canopy in it then let drip dry. When dry it looks more glass like and not so much toy like. There are several videos on using Mop & glow by professional scale airplane model builders. Hopefully this helps.
I say, great job, Man! I have some questions, if you don't mind... I assume that clear coat is safe enough not eat up the paint or foam? We don't have that brand here in the U.S.. Would you be kind enough to give some info as to the ingredients in the can? Perhaps I can try to locate a brand with similar properties. Also, does it dry with a glossy or dull coat? I couldn't tell for surel. Lastly, did you use any particular technique to apply it? Thanks so much for any clarification... Liked, subscribed and cheers from Los Angeles!
Hi - ref your questions -
1. I assume that clear coat is safe enough not eat up the paint or foam? -
A1. Yes it is ..
2. We don't have that brand here in the U.S..
A2. I know a lot of people in the US and they use a brand called MinWax Polycrylic - I don't think it is a pray its brushed on using those Foam headed brushes.
3. does it dry with a glossy or dull coat? -
3A. Depends on which type you buy - it comes (MInWax Polycrylic ) in Matt, Silk or Gloss - I like the Gloss finish
4. did you use any particular technique to apply it?
4A. for a spray application - its necessary to spray from a distance of about 20 to 25cm from the surface - start the spray away from the surface and then move it over the surface in one single movement and direction keep spraying until you are clear of the surface again then stop - and repeat on the unsprayed surface, do one side at a time and let it dry then turn it over and do the next - you can do more than one coat, it is best to cover up the cockpit as it WILL mist when the clear coat dries.
with MinWax try not to shake it up - it will create small bubbles that are hard to remove if you do - also for both types of application be in a well ventilated area and wear a mask.
I would just add that if you go for the spray can option the Clear Coat spray MUST be water based -or- Acrylic based (most Acrylic clear coats ARE Water based.
@@FlankerTanker Wow, an immediately reply. Thank you Sir for your informative comments! I will shop around for the Minwax as you suggested and will also be ordering the Hawker and P-51 from Hobby King today. Cheers from Los Angeles!
I just got this model from HK, and it's all built. But I'm having issues connecting the gyro to my Spektrum receiver. The leads coming out of the gyro are single wire leads, and I'm not sure how to connect them to the receiver, as iI've been used to the standard 3 prong servo connecters. Any help in my receiver/gyro connection would be greatly appreciated! Thank you
the white wires coming out from the Gyro (single wires) need to connect to the SIGNAL Pin for each of the Channels - Most Spektrum RX's will have a tiny moulding showing +, -, s - the "s" is the signal pin.. FYI - I sold mine and purchase the FMS 800mm P51 - I think the FMS one is build and fly's better than the HK one - which is an old TOP Rc one with an added ORX Stab, Also found they fly much better without all the attachments on the bottom , Fuel tanks and landing gear - Hand Launch and Belly land... Good Luck - and enjoy...
@@FlankerTanker Thank you for your timely reply. Works like a charm now. Looking forward to my maiden. I'll also check out the FMS 800mm P-51. It looks really scale, and the pilot they got the livery from was one whose stories I enjoyed very much. Thanks again!
Greetings. I have this plane from some weeks now and i made some ruff landings on high grass and the motor came loose. Any idea how can enforce him to be fixed. I am a beginner, it s my first plane. Thank you in dvanced. A good day to you !!
HI - I would like to Suggest that this is NOT a good aircraft as your first - Would be OK for a second or third but I would not recommend it as your first - I would need to know a lot more about how it came loose , mounter mount, plywood wall it bolts onto - as depending on that will depend how it can be fixed - for example has the motor just come free from its metal mount or has the metal mount come free from the wood or has the wood, metal mount and motor all come away from the foam.. sorry but without more information I am unable to help and anything I say would only be based on a guess...
Hi yah
Just been talking to tallguysrc he built one a while ago. He had to weigh the nose down.... Check him out on YT a bit more info won't do any harm
Brian
I'm on my way - thanks for the help - Martyn
Took a look - but it seems he added weight as he was using 2 cell Lipo - I am using the recommended 3 cell LIPOs - so I should not need to add weight - I think I have the CoG in the correct place and the battery is right next to the RX at the cockpit end.. so we shall see .....
Did it come with velcro for the battery
Yes - I show what it comes with in the unboxing video - and you can see it here on 0:36