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I think mine has symptom 1, sometimes it's hard to change gears, it feels stuck so I have to redo it, kind of unstuck it. I also notice a jerking time to time. A sound similar to radio without signal. Gas consumption increased too
Try a take out loose play in the pedal with the adjustment screw normally above your pedle and see if you can get all your gears then if so probs your cable will need renewing soonvbut will be ok for now thats for cable clutches only leave a tiny amount of play in the pedal 👍🤔💯
Mine just slips, it does rev high on 1st and 2nd but 3rd and 4th is good as long as no heavy gas, just hoping its the clutch only and not anything else, getting it replace this weekend
I have. A 2000 Ford F150X. L out of pretty much elsewhere. I had went to start my truck up. I pushed the coach in and it would not turn over. After messing around a little with the clutch pedal. The vehicle started only to find out that I could not put it in gear. Turn the motor off and thought what could be the problem? Move the shift around a little and force to end to a year. Blue third held the club restart the vehicle, which began to lurch forward. Find me. It started and went down the road, but I was in third gear tried to downshift in the second and it would not engage. Also noticed while I had initially. Got it started and third by using the starter if I did not hold the clutch to the floor the transmission transmission was slipping no acceleration power. So I was pushing back in the clutch, and my foot was still on the gas to clutch started to engage notice. At this point that the only way to keep the truck from being able to go forward.What's to have to Clutch held in which I didn't understand I stopped the vehicle, turned it off.Move the shift back into note 2 and push in the clutch.Pedal and tried to start the vehicle which would not restart. Could anybody give me any advice for I have no inclination what could be wrong
Mines makes a slight tick noise when pressing it down. It doesn't affect the way it drives or feels, i just notice it started making that noise. The rpms are normal but i can definitely feel that slight tick when i do hear it.
Mine wants to shake when initial takeoff but its fine after you start driving and dosent do except maybe the first drive. I think its bc i havent really been driving a standard transmission for 20 years now and it has a deep clutch and in my yard is tight parking and turning areas. Im gonna ride it out and see if its just me needing to get used to the mustang. I havent had it but a couple days and not really even comfortable yet sitting in it. I have to get things adjusted.
What if you go to engage the clutch to shift and you can’t change gears and even with the pedal pressed all the way down you can still accelerate in that gear your in
could be due to a worn-out clutch disc or pressure plate. If the clutch isn't engaging properly, it won't fully disengage the transmission from the engine, making it difficult to shift gears.
Ford ranger clutch remains depressed suddenly during trip. The clutch still works but it seems that it requires me to push down the clutch much further than usual as it sticks at a certain height. What could be the problem? Great video btw
that may stem from problems within the clutch hydraulic system (such as issues w/ the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines) potentially caused by low fluid level, leaks or air in the system. Or, if your vehicle model uses a mechanical clutch linkage, the problem could lie w/ a stretched, frayed, or damaged clutch cable. Another possible reason are issues with the clutch release bearing, fork, clutch disc or pressure plate.
My 2013 Honda Civic SI the clutch pedal is pushed it makes a high pitch squeal also have a hard time shifting gears and where it just gets stuck in reverse.
@@j.j.5731 A likely cause is a worn or failing throw-out bearing. Another possibility is a faulty master or slave cylinder, or leaks or air in the hydraulic lines. A worn or damaged clutch disc or pressure plate could cause inconsistent operation and make shifting difficult. Also, check for low or contaminated clutch fluid.
That could be attributed to various factrs, including slipping or improper clutch engagement, clogged fuel filter/injectors or faulty fuel pump, a dirty air filter or malfunctioning maf sensor. In some cases, worn spark plugs or faulty ignition coils are factors, as well as possible contaminated or low transmission fluid levl. ECM or sensor malfunctions affecting throttle response and fuel timing are also potential factors to consider.
Please I need help.. on Monday I was driving all of a sudden my car stopped and won’t accelerate. After turning off my engine for 15 mins I turned it on and was able to drive out of the road but I could barely accelerate the vehicle was finding it difficult to accelerate I had to tow it to the mechanic we thought it was bad petrol we drained the petrol and added a fresh one and I turned on the car the car works in drive neutral and park gear but won’t reverse the reverse gear keeps blinking and car won’t move in reverse.. please any idea what could be the case I hope it’s not my whole transmission that’s has gone bad Please note my car is a Hyundai veloster 2012 uses a dct transmission
@@killzkelly7740 sorry to hear that. I can only provide a suggestion, not a diagnosis. Your mechanic will be able to check potential causes like a malfunctioning TCM, low or contaminated transmission fluid, worn/damaged clutch packs in the DCT, or faulty sensors. An internal mechanical issue within the transmission is a possibility that needs fixing or replacing. Your mechanic can also run a diagnostic scan to check for error codes. I hope this helps your mechanic somehow.
My 2013 Mustang GT jumps,bucks or feels like the clutch slips while mid catch from a dead stop release the clutch pedal and giving some gas.....Think its a worn out clutch or transmission? 61k Miles on it now.
Based on the symptoms you mentioned, it could be indicative of a worn-out clutch. Your mechanic will most likely take your car for a spin to "feel" and assess the condition of the transmission as well.
I have a 2008 Infiniti g35 Sedan rwd 6spd, only mods I have done to the Trans is the CSC delete Kit which is PHENOMENAL, also,Light fly wheel-BUT my car revs very high in 4th or in any gear honestly. And over time the clutch engagement have gotten a bit higher, My friends are telling me that I just need a new clutch, in which I was going to run a Custom made falcon Kevlar clutch just hoping it’ll work, what do you think?
thanks for sharing your experience with your 2008 Infiniti G35! The high revs in 4th (or any gear), along with the clutch engagement getting higher over time, do indicate that your clutch might be wearing out. Your friends are likely right about needing a new clutch. A custom-made Falcon Kevlar clutch could be a good option, especially if you're looking for something that can handle more aggressive driving. Just make sure the custom clutch is compatible with your current setup & driving needs, but before making the final decision it’s always a good idea to consult with a mechanic familiar with your specific mods. Good luck, & hope your G35 keeps running strong! 🙏 Thanks for watching!
Shifting gears without using the clutch could result to significant damage to the synchros, linkage, gear teeth, or transmission bearings. If the clutch & flywheel is worn out it can cause clutch slippage or failure which could immobilize your car.
Clicking noise that sounds like a rod bearing is going bad but only upon clutch engagement as you give gas while releasing the pedal, noise is not heard while revving in neutral or accelerating while in gear. No slippage or difficulty shifting gear, no roughness or vibration, it's a car I test drove, a potential purchase. Should I be concerned? I daily two manual cars with old and brand new clutch, never heard this noise although very subtle.
@@thaik56 while the clicking noise is subtle, it’s still worth noting that this type of noise, especially during a test drive, could indicate wear or pending failure of the clutch release mechanism, the clutch release bearing, pilot bearing, or some other component. Since you’re considering buying this car, I’d suggest having your mechanic check it out personally to be safe, even if the clutch itself feels fine at the moment. Better to catch and address a minor issue before it becomes a major (and costly) repair.
my car has been grinding first gear lately, but everything else engages normally after that and it only does it when im going slow speeds like 0-2 mph, but it stops and it comes back
@@Viosified it grinds when shifting to 1st gear but it hasnt done it anymore today, and its a manual, and im not sure if it has to do with it but when im acelerating in 1st and ii let go of the gas pedal, the car jerks a little bit and im at like 1.5-2k rpms
@@ChargingActive Adjusting the clutch bite point might help if the clutch isn't fully disengaging when you press the pedal. If the bite point is too high or too low, it could cause the clutch to engage or disengage improperly, leading to grinding or jerking. However, since the grinding is specific to first gear and intermittent, it may be more related to the synchro or linkage, but adjusting the bite point could potentially reduce the symptoms. I have a tutorial on clutch bite point adjustment: ua-cam.com/video/4yahxd28Ctg/v-deo.htmlsi=j_uSmnXUipgiQcRK Start with adjusting the clutch bite point, as it’s a relatively simple and inexpensive fix that might alleviate some symptoms. If the problem persists, consider having the clutch, transmission mounts, and transmission internals (like synchros, gears, etc.) inspected by your mechanic. He can diagnose if there are deeper issues like worn components.
@@balladan2029 it’s been 2 months and I haven’t really done anything but got an oil change, my car still makes the noise but she has no problems getting up to speed I just hope I’m not hurting my transmission to much by doing it
A grinding noise during shifting and slow acceleration may stem from issues such as worn clutch or transmission components, synchronizers, low or contaminated transmission fluid, damaged axles or CV joints, differential issues, insufficient engine power, or brake drag. It could be one or a combination of these factors. I suggest you take your car to your mechanic to identify and fix the specific problem.
What if it let me shift from 1 to 5th with out no issues but when trying to kick it into 6th it won’t do it at all just a lot of grinding is that a clutch issue or a transmission issue please help
it's likely a transmission issue rather than a clutch problem. The grinding noise indicates a synchronization issue with the gearbox, possibly due to worn synchronizers or other transmission components.
I suggest you consult your trusted mechanic so he can test drive your car and perform a thorough diagnosis. However, some of the things to consider are the following: clutch slippage, clutch drag, misalignment of the clutch assembly during installation, worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts, and drivetrain or suspension problems. Also, issues with CV joints, wheel bearings, or suspension components, irregular tire wear or poor wheel alignment, can be factors as well.
Been needing help understanding the problem with my car when the car starts up cold the pedal is soft, the engagement between gears is in the beginning and then when it get to temperature it becomes hard and engages at the end of me releasing the clutch.. been having this problem for a while now and every mechanic I go to doesn’t know what it is. I hot a new clutch and clutch master cylinder.
You mentioned the issue persists despite the new clutch & clutch master cylinder? If that's the case, other components may be contributing to the problem, like the clutch slave cylinder, which, if worn or malfunctioning, could affect clutch pedal feel & engagement points. Air or contaminants in the clutch hydraulic system may also be a factor, necessitating bleeding & flushing of the system (If you're interested, here's a video of that: ua-cam.com/video/itWKVM45ulE/v-deo.htmlsi=WISSdaAqE8CZsZWH ) Also, issues with the clutch release bearing, clutch fork, pivot, or transmission synchronizers could be causing or contributing to the problem. These are just ideas I could share. I suggest consulting with a specialized transmission mechanic or service center if you can.
I'd check for misaligned, worn, or damaged shifter linkage. Problems with the hydraulic system or a worn clutch (if MT); internal gearbox issues (worn synchros, gears, bearings); low, dirty, or incorrect transmission fluid; a malfunctioning shift interlock mech (if AT); physical obstructions/binding in the shift linkage, etc.. In a pinch, sometimes it releases if you try rocking the car, pressing the clutch (or brake) fully, & turning the engine off before attempting to shift again. Even if you are able to release it you need to have it checked/fixed as soon as possible.
@@UKAndrewL If the oil light comes on it's signalling low oil pressure, which could be an issue with the oil pump or even just low oil levels. Sometimes the clutch can slightly change engine load or RPMs, triggering the light if pressure is borderline. Another possibility could be a sensor issue, like a faulty oil pressure sensor that’s picking up changes when you press the clutch. Either way, it’s best to get it checked out soon. Running with low oil pressure can be dangerous for the engine, so maybe top up your oil if it’s low and then have a mechanic take a look a.s.a.p.
@@AE-Detailing could be due to a faulty TCM, issues with wiring or transmission range sensor or transmission solenoid. Poor shifting may also be due to low or dirty transmission fluid. As for the 'D' light not showing, the problem might lie with the instrument cluster itself or an internal mechanical issue within the transmission. If you can, check for any trouble codes using an OBD-II scanner.
@@Viosified i figured out the d problem it was the neutral safety switch but now the N not showing up lmao but yeah when I put the scanner no codes comes up Im thinking of changing the shifting sensors see if that’s the problem
@@AE-Detailing Haha, glad you figured out the D problem, the neutral safety switch can be tricky. Swapping out the shifting sensors sounds like a solid next step. Hopefully, that resolves it-good luck!
My Honda Rebel has developed a clanking noise, primarily in lower gears, while accelerating, and generally while the clutch is not being pressed. The bike may stutter and I feel a sudden loss of power without feeling like the clutch is engaged (no sudden high RPMs). Any suggestions?
The loss of power is brief, but it comes with the clanking sound, and I can generally power through it. Once I'm in 4th gear, there is no problems, while 1st and 2nd are the worst. Could this be something to do with the transmission rather than the clutch?
@@mountainmanxyz It could be an issue w/ the transmission, possibly the chain & sprockets. The clanking noise in lower gears & the brief loss of power could be due to issues w/ the gears or gear dogs. Worn or damaged gears/gear dogs can cause improper engagement w/c can cause noise & power loss. A dirty, loose or worn-out chain & sprockets can produce clanking noises & affect power delivery. Check the transmission oil level, chain tension & inspect the sprockets for wear, including the drivetrain (bolts or bearings, even engine mounts). These are just pointers that might help you identify the cause of the problem but a visit to your bike mechanic is still the best course of action for a thorough diagnosis.
My clutch pedal was getting stuck stopped coming up kept having to relift it from the floor while driving. It got to a point where the pedal just stuck and when i pushed down i couldn’t get into gear. All within 5-10 mins. never had any symptoms i assumed air in system. The mechanics saying i might need to do the works gearbox clutch flywheel slave cylinder master cylinder never had any problems shifting gears no sounds or smells and i dont know the mechanics😢
@@krimeking007 It sounds like your clutch issue could be related to a hydraulic failure, specifically with the clutch master or slave cylinder. Since you're having trouble getting the pedal to return after pressing it & now can’t shift gears, it’s likely that one or both of these components is failing, which prevents the clutch from disengaging properly. Air in the system could also cause these symptoms, but if the problem escalated that quickly, it's more likely that the seals in the master or slave cylinder have worn out, or there’s a fluid leak. I'm not entirely sure about the mechanic’s recommendation to replace the clutch, gearbox, flywheel, and hydraulics, but it could be a precautionary measure based on his diagnostics, especially if he noticed significant wear or if you're uncertain about the car's history. However, I’d suggest thoroughly inspecting the clutch hydraulics and checking for any fluid leaks first, before committing to a full gearbox/clutch replacement.
Relatively new to Manual and have been having some issues when shifting. For context during my first year of ownership i banged each gear and tended to rev the engine to the redline but didnt typically go past 6,500 rpm. I have mellowed out a bit and try to give my clutch and syncronizers time to function. I recently over the past 3 months have been running a shift knob extentsion and have been paying much closer attention to the feel of my shifts. Sometimes its great other times theres a insane amount of resistance. Whether rev matching before releasing or not with the clutch depressed it should or used to be a smooth transition from gear to gear and now it intermitently is stiff or easy when moving the shift knob. Im unsure what the exact issue is because clutchless shifting or more commonly double clutching seem to feel better. I suspect the clutch disc may be on its way out honestly but any tips advice or expeirence working on manuals is appreciated. My car is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport 1.6L
@@Lii-hu5dh It sounds like aggressive shifting early on may have caused some wear and tear on your transmission components. I suggest you look into possible issues like worn clutch disc, damaged synchros, misaligned shift linkage, or contaminated or low transmission fluid. Your use of a shift knob extension might also be amplifying these issues. Consider having your clutch inspected and possibly replaced, checking the synchros for wear, adjusting and lubricating the shift linkage, and replacing the transmission fluid. Testing shifts without the knob extension can help determine if it’s contributing to the problem.
@@Viosified I figured as much but thanks I truly do appreciate your time and response, ill get it checked out when its finacially feaseable. I have an auto i can fall back onto but it wont be the same.
@@Lii-hu5dh You're welcome! It’s great that you have a backup car to use in the meantime. Hopefully, once you get the manual checked out and repaired, you'll be back to enjoying it even more. Have a good one!
@@michaelrobinson4165 It might be due to a worn clutch disc or pressure plate (common in vehicles with higher mileage), or possibly a problem with the clutch fluid (if low or contaminated, the hydraulic system might not function properly). Sometimes, a misadjusted clutch pedal or bite point can also cause difficulty in shifting gears smoothly. It could also point to issues within the transmission itself (worn synchronizers, etc). If it persists, you might want to have a mechanic inspect the clutch system or transmission to pinpoint the exact cause.
I got a 2003 350z recently and it grinds in 2nd and 3rd gear and when I push in clutch and rev it grinds bad bad so I don’t do it. When I went into reverse (push down and right then down) it popped out of gear? It grinded real bad I had to reengage reverse for it to back. Assuming it’s the tranny but I’m new to Nissan
The grinding in 2nd & 3rd gear & the tranny popping out of reverse could be caused by worn synchros, a faulty or improperly adjusted clutch, low or incorrect transmission fluid, damaged gear teeth or bearings, or issues with the shift linkage. Your mechanic should be able to check the transmission fluid level & quality, clutch engagement, inspect the shift linkage for alignment & other components.
@@Viosified hmmm interesting ok because the previous owner claimed they did change the clutch and the issue is relatively inconsistent except for the shifting part so maybe they didn’t adjust the clutch properly?
@@PrplexedMG yes, that is possible (if the issues have been going on for a while damage to other components is also a possibility). In the meantime, you can try adjusting the clutch pedal bite point and see if that helps. Here's a link on how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/4yahxd28Ctg/v-deo.htmlsi=_p7MeY2bMCkocKxm
My 2016 hyundai elantra just stop moving in forward 2 days ago, it only reverses, sometimes it only pulls off in a different gear or after being warmed up so long but doesnt want to move everytime any ideas?
That's a bummer.. Potential culprits include one or a combination of transmission malfunctions, such as low or contaminated transmission fluid, faulty transmission solenoids, or internal transmission damage. Clutch-related issues (in manual transmissions), torque converter problems, or ECM/TCM malfunctions may contribute to the symptoms. It's also essential to check the transmission fluid level & condition of the fluid, inspect sensors & switches related to the transmission, and consider the possibility of mechanical damage or wear within the transmission. If u don't have the necessary tools & due to the complexity of diagnosing transmission problems, seeking assistance frm your mechanic or Hyundai dealership is advisable. They can perform a thorough diagnosis and recommend the necessary repairs. Good luck! Thanks for watching.
If you're experiencing a burning smell from your clutch, especially at high RPMs and in higher gears like 4th, it could indicate excessive clutch wear or slipping. It is best to have your mechanic inspect your clutch system asap.
My car is almost at 200,000 Kilometers and I've put about less than 20k Kilometers since ownership, so I've no clue if it has a history of clutch assembly replacement during the previous ownership. However, It feels extremely different from when I first owned it to now. It's a 5 speed manual, Before from 1st to 4th I can actually feel the car pull away and I'd be doing 100+km/h, Now from 1st - 4th I'd be doing 100km/h but during the shifting process through each gears, the RPM goes up but it doesn't match the speed shown, Most cars would be following the speed limit, while my car shows that I'm doing the same speed on the odometer but it looks like i'm doing 10 under. I'm suspecting that My clutch is starting to go since I've only noticed it recently, just wanna pick at your brain a bit and hear some thoughts before following through with the tranny pull. Thanks! Also, this is my first manual vehicle I learned how to drive stick with this car, I also drive like an idiot often to test theories.
Your guess is as good as mine... Based on the symptoms you've described, it's likely that your clutch is worn out & starting to slip, leading to a disconnect between engine speed & vehicle speed. This would explain your observation of why the RPM goes up without a corresponding increase in actual speed. Given the mileage of your car and the symptoms you mentioned, it's a smart move to get it sorted out as soon as possible. I wish you the best! 👍
@@Viosified I appriciate the immediate response greatly. The plan is to pull it out this weekend and find out, if that happens i'll try to get back here and give an update for reference purposes. Thanks a lot have a great weekend👍
aggressive downshifting/engine braking can cause damage to the clutch, flywheel, transmission, or related components; or possibly exacerbate an underlying issue. Have it checked ASAP.
potential causes could include issues with the clutch system, such as hydraulic fluid leaks, malfunctioning master or slave cylinders, problems with the clutch linkage, such as worn-out bushings, damage to the clutch fork or pivot ball, wear and tear on the clutch disc or pressure plate, broken or weak clutch springs, or issues with the clutch pedal assembly. Consider visiting your mechanic for a thorough inspection and repair.
@@Viosified thanks. i’ve replaced timing belts and have done a valve adjustment before, so i think this is just another challenge for me to do. regarding your suggestions, i suspected as much. just wanted a second opinion. the clutch itself may be fine. i started the engine in 1st gear on an uphill and the car kept going (had to get it home). but definitely the other stuff are suspect.
Yeah don't buy it could also be the gear box linkages in the engine bay normally 3 linking rods that just push on simple to fit but there costly mine cost 180 pounds for the 3 rods I got genuine parts costly 💯🤔👍
Potential causes could include a worn or slipping clutch, issues with the clutch cable or hydraulic system, problems with the clutch release bearing, transmission issues like worn synchros or a damaged gearbox, issues with RPM or throttle position sensors, or complications related to a damaged or worn flywheel. It could be one or a combination of these factors. Diagnosing car issues remotely can be challenging, and it's always recommended to have a mechanic inspect your vehicle in person.
I have a Toyota 1998 RAV4 manual transmission the vehicle lost power then stayed stuck the gearbox stuck in fifth gear The clutch is soft anybody have any ideas
the soft clutch pedal could be due to low fluid level or from a leak in the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, or air pockets in the hydraulic lines. The gearbox being stuck in fifth gear may indicate issues with the transmission gear selector or linkage, preventing the gearbox from shifting into other gears. Another possibility is a problem with the clutch release mechanism (clutch release bearing or clutch fork), which could be causing incomplete disengagement of the clutch. Lastly, worn or damaged pressure plate or clutch disc could cause slippage & loss of power, which makes it difficult, if not impossible, for the engine to provide sufficient torque to the wheels.
The clunky feeling when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear in a manual tranny vehicle can be attributed to various factors, including potential clutch wear, worn synchronizers, damaged gear teeth, improper shifting technique, low or contaminated transmission fluid, etc.. To accurately diagnose and address the issue, it's advisable to consult a qualified mechanic in your area for a thorough inspection. Thanks for watching!
@@lionslove779 it could be due to a worn clutch release bearing. It might also be related to a loose pedal, or clutch fork or a worn input shaft bearing in the transmission. While this is just my opinion based on what you've described, it's a good idea to have your mechanic take a look sooner rather than later.
Ford ranger clutch remains depressed suddenly during trip. The clutch still works but it seems that it requires me to push down the clutch much further than usual as it sticks at a certain height. What could be the problem? Great video btw
that may stem frm problems within the clutch hydraulic system (such as issues w/ the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines) potentially caused by low fluid level, leaks or air in the system. Or, if your vehicle model uses a mechanical clutch linkage, the problem could lie w/ a stretched, frayed, or damaged clutch cable. Another possible reason are issues with the clutch release bearing, fork, clutch disc or pressure plate.
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just fixed my cv axles in my 97 integra and took it out for a test drive, full stop to 1st at a red light and a loud bang then 6 neutrals
Whoopsy!
I think mine has symptom 1, sometimes it's hard to change gears, it feels stuck so I have to redo it, kind of unstuck it. I also notice a jerking time to time. A sound similar to radio without signal. Gas consumption increased too
Anyone else watch this and just gone "ahhhh shit 💀🤦🏻♀️"
🤭😀
Literally the first one 😅
😂
😂😂😂😂😂am here
Fr happening to me rn 😢💀
Thank you for this simple and incredibly informative video
Thank you! I appreciate your comment 🙏
Try a take out loose play in the pedal with the adjustment screw normally above your pedle and see if you can get all your gears then if so probs your cable will need renewing soonvbut will be ok for now thats for cable clutches only leave a tiny amount of play in the pedal 👍🤔💯
Mine just slips, it does rev high on 1st and 2nd but 3rd and 4th is good as long as no heavy gas, just hoping its the clutch only and not anything else, getting it replace this weekend
what was it
@@Juvio clutch needed replacement
I have.
A 2000 Ford F150X. L out of pretty much elsewhere. I had went to start my truck up. I pushed the coach in and it would not turn over. After messing around a little with the clutch pedal. The vehicle started only to find out that I could not put it in gear. Turn the motor off and thought what could be the problem? Move the shift around a little and force to end to a year. Blue third held the club restart the vehicle, which began to lurch forward. Find me. It started and went down the road, but I was in third gear tried to downshift in the second and it would not engage.
Also noticed while I had initially. Got it started and third by using the starter if I did not hold the clutch to the floor the transmission transmission was slipping no acceleration power. So I was pushing back in the clutch, and my foot was still on the gas to clutch started to engage notice. At this point that the only way to keep the truck from being able to go forward.What's to have to Clutch held in which I didn't understand I stopped the vehicle, turned it off.Move the shift back into note 2 and push in the clutch.Pedal and tried to start the vehicle which would not restart. Could anybody give me any advice for I have no inclination what could be wrong
Mines makes a slight tick noise when pressing it down. It doesn't affect the way it drives or feels, i just notice it started making that noise. The rpms are normal but i can definitely feel that slight tick when i do hear it.
It could just be a slack pedal pin or spring needing some lubrication.
Mine wants to shake when initial takeoff but its fine after you start driving and dosent do except maybe the first drive. I think its bc i havent really been driving a standard transmission for 20 years now and it has a deep clutch and in my yard is tight parking and turning areas. Im gonna ride it out and see if its just me needing to get used to the mustang. I havent had it but a couple days and not really even comfortable yet sitting in it. I have to get things adjusted.
What if you go to engage the clutch to shift and you can’t change gears and even with the pedal pressed all the way down you can still accelerate in that gear your in
could be due to a worn-out clutch disc or pressure plate. If the clutch isn't engaging properly, it won't fully disengage the transmission from the engine, making it difficult to shift gears.
Ford ranger clutch remains depressed suddenly during trip. The clutch still works but it seems that it requires me to push down the clutch much further than usual as it sticks at a certain height. What could be the problem? Great video btw
that may stem from problems within the clutch hydraulic system (such as issues w/ the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines) potentially caused by low fluid level, leaks or air in the system. Or, if your vehicle model uses a mechanical clutch linkage, the problem could lie w/ a stretched, frayed, or damaged clutch cable. Another possible reason are issues with the clutch release bearing, fork, clutch disc or pressure plate.
My 2013 Honda Civic SI the clutch pedal is pushed it makes a high pitch squeal also have a hard time shifting gears and where it just gets stuck in reverse.
@@j.j.5731 A likely cause is a worn or failing throw-out bearing. Another possibility is a faulty master or slave cylinder, or leaks or air in the hydraulic lines. A worn or damaged clutch disc or pressure plate could cause inconsistent operation and make shifting difficult. Also, check for low or contaminated clutch fluid.
@Viosified thank you
What about stalling in first gear if i press gas to accelerate start stalling then jumps goes if i dont gas it hard
That could be attributed to various factrs, including slipping or improper clutch engagement, clogged fuel filter/injectors or faulty fuel pump, a dirty air filter or malfunctioning maf sensor. In some cases, worn spark plugs or faulty ignition coils are factors, as well as possible contaminated or low transmission fluid levl. ECM or sensor malfunctions affecting throttle response and fuel timing are also potential factors to consider.
@@Viosified so I don't need new transmission
@@Viosified had truck straight piped
@@gabrielsalas2156 a visit to your mechanic is recommended to accurately diagnose & address the specific cause of the issue.
Please I need help.. on Monday I was driving all of a sudden my car stopped and won’t accelerate. After turning off my engine for 15 mins I turned it on and was able to drive out of the road but I could barely accelerate the vehicle was finding it difficult to accelerate I had to tow it to the mechanic we thought it was bad petrol we drained the petrol and added a fresh one and I turned on the car the car works in drive neutral and park gear but won’t reverse the reverse gear keeps blinking and car won’t move in reverse.. please any idea what could be the case I hope it’s not my whole transmission that’s has gone bad
Please note my car is a Hyundai veloster 2012 uses a dct transmission
@@killzkelly7740 sorry to hear that. I can only provide a suggestion, not a diagnosis. Your mechanic will be able to check potential causes like a malfunctioning TCM, low or contaminated transmission fluid, worn/damaged clutch packs in the DCT, or faulty sensors. An internal mechanical issue within the transmission is a possibility that needs fixing or replacing. Your mechanic can also run a diagnostic scan to check for error codes. I hope this helps your mechanic somehow.
@@Viosified thank you so much I am grateful for this reply
@@killzkelly7740 you're welcome. Best of luck!
My 2013 Mustang GT jumps,bucks or feels like the clutch slips while mid catch from a dead stop release the clutch pedal and giving some gas.....Think its a worn out clutch or transmission? 61k Miles on it now.
Based on the symptoms you mentioned, it could be indicative of a worn-out clutch. Your mechanic will most likely take your car for a spin to "feel" and assess the condition of the transmission as well.
Mines have none of these symptoms. It just does a slight click sometimes when I press the clutch all the way down. It drives faster.
Did you ever find out what it was?
Mine 1st 2nd and 3rd gear loss of power. Giving extra acceleration but slow
Possibly due to worn clutch causing slippage
I have a 2008 Infiniti g35 Sedan rwd 6spd, only mods I have done to the Trans is the CSC delete Kit which is PHENOMENAL, also,Light fly wheel-BUT my car revs very high in 4th or in any gear honestly.
And over time the clutch engagement have gotten a bit higher, My friends are telling me that I just need a new clutch, in which I was going to run a Custom made falcon Kevlar clutch just hoping it’ll work, what do you think?
thanks for sharing your experience with your 2008 Infiniti G35! The high revs in 4th (or any gear), along with the clutch engagement getting higher over time, do indicate that your clutch might be wearing out. Your friends are likely right about needing a new clutch. A custom-made Falcon Kevlar clutch could be a good option, especially if you're looking for something that can handle more aggressive driving. Just make sure the custom clutch is compatible with your current setup & driving needs, but before making the final decision it’s always a good idea to consult with a mechanic familiar with your specific mods. Good luck, & hope your G35 keeps running strong! 🙏 Thanks for watching!
My 2010 Camaro ss is able to shift gears without using the clutch at all and won’t go no matter what gear, what can the problem be??
Shifting gears without using the clutch could result to significant damage to the synchros, linkage, gear teeth, or transmission bearings. If the clutch & flywheel is worn out it can cause clutch slippage or failure which could immobilize your car.
@@Viosifiedare there any symptoms i should look for so pinpoint the exact problem?
@@jaysowayvy285 if your car starts but "won't go no matter what gear" look for issues with clutch & transmission components.
Clicking noise that sounds like a rod bearing is going bad but only upon clutch engagement as you give gas while releasing the pedal, noise is not heard while revving in neutral or accelerating while in gear. No slippage or difficulty shifting gear, no roughness or vibration, it's a car I test drove, a potential purchase. Should I be concerned? I daily two manual cars with old and brand new clutch, never heard this noise although very subtle.
@@thaik56 while the clicking noise is subtle, it’s still worth noting that this type of noise, especially during a test drive, could indicate wear or pending failure of the clutch release mechanism, the clutch release bearing, pilot bearing, or some other component. Since you’re considering buying this car, I’d suggest having your mechanic check it out personally to be safe, even if the clutch itself feels fine at the moment. Better to catch and address a minor issue before it becomes a major (and costly) repair.
Thank you Andrew Huberman
my car has been grinding first gear lately, but everything else engages normally after that and it only does it when im going slow speeds like 0-2 mph, but it stops and it comes back
@@ChargingActive need clarification, is your car manual or automatic? It grinds when shifting to 1st gear or only when driving slow?
@@Viosified it grinds when shifting to 1st gear but it hasnt done it anymore today, and its a manual, and im not sure if it has to do with it but when im acelerating in 1st and ii let go of the gas pedal, the car jerks a little bit and im at like 1.5-2k rpms
@@ChargingActive Adjusting the clutch bite point might help if the clutch isn't fully disengaging when you press the pedal. If the bite point is too high or too low, it could cause the clutch to engage or disengage improperly, leading to grinding or jerking. However, since the grinding is specific to first gear and intermittent, it may be more related to the synchro or linkage, but adjusting the bite point could potentially reduce the symptoms. I have a tutorial on clutch bite point adjustment: ua-cam.com/video/4yahxd28Ctg/v-deo.htmlsi=j_uSmnXUipgiQcRK
Start with adjusting the clutch bite point, as it’s a relatively simple and inexpensive fix that might alleviate some symptoms. If the problem persists, consider having the clutch, transmission mounts, and transmission internals (like synchros, gears, etc.) inspected by your mechanic. He can diagnose if there are deeper issues like worn components.
@@Viosified thank you so much man for the help, really appreciate it, i'll be looking into that
@@ChargingActive no problem. Have a good one!
Mine just makes a loud humming noise when I press the gas too hard
bro same for my crv, when i try to accelerate it starts making a weird scratchy grinding noise,
@@balladan2029 it’s been 2 months and I haven’t really done anything but got an oil change, my car still makes the noise but she has no problems getting up to speed I just hope I’m not hurting my transmission to much by doing it
My clutch is definitely buggered
My clutch makes a couple clunking noises after engaging and driving in that gear for a couple seconds
My motorcycle is having this problem. Did you find out the exact issue?
Whats it mean if it grinds it takes off very slow
A grinding noise during shifting and slow acceleration may stem from issues such as worn clutch or transmission components, synchronizers, low or contaminated transmission fluid, damaged axles or CV joints, differential issues, insufficient engine power, or brake drag. It could be one or a combination of these factors. I suggest you take your car to your mechanic to identify and fix the specific problem.
What if it let me shift from 1 to 5th with out no issues but when trying to kick it into 6th it won’t do it at all just a lot of grinding is that a clutch issue or a transmission issue please help
it's likely a transmission issue rather than a clutch problem. The grinding noise indicates a synchronization issue with the gearbox, possibly due to worn synchronizers or other transmission components.
What about when changing gears and you feel the car move side to side and accelerating?
I suggest you consult your trusted mechanic so he can test drive your car and perform a thorough diagnosis. However, some of the things to consider are the following: clutch slippage, clutch drag, misalignment of the clutch assembly during installation, worn or damaged engine or transmission mounts, and drivetrain or suspension problems. Also, issues with CV joints, wheel bearings, or suspension components, irregular tire wear or poor wheel alignment, can be factors as well.
Been needing help understanding the problem with my car when the car starts up cold the pedal is soft, the engagement between gears is in the beginning and then when it get to temperature it becomes hard and engages at the end of me releasing the clutch.. been having this problem for a while now and every mechanic I go to doesn’t know what it is. I hot a new clutch and clutch master cylinder.
You mentioned the issue persists despite the new clutch & clutch master cylinder? If that's the case, other components may be contributing to the problem, like the clutch slave cylinder, which, if worn or malfunctioning, could affect clutch pedal feel & engagement points. Air or contaminants in the clutch hydraulic system may also be a factor, necessitating bleeding & flushing of the system (If you're interested, here's a video of that: ua-cam.com/video/itWKVM45ulE/v-deo.htmlsi=WISSdaAqE8CZsZWH )
Also, issues with the clutch release bearing, clutch fork, pivot, or transmission synchronizers could be causing or contributing to the problem. These are just ideas I could share. I suggest consulting with a specialized transmission mechanic or service center if you can.
Any thoughts on being stuck in reverse on a 98 subaru impreza
I'd check for misaligned, worn, or damaged shifter linkage. Problems with the hydraulic system or a worn clutch (if MT); internal gearbox issues (worn synchros, gears, bearings); low, dirty, or incorrect transmission fluid; a malfunctioning shift interlock mech (if AT); physical obstructions/binding in the shift linkage, etc..
In a pinch, sometimes it releases if you try rocking the car, pressing the clutch (or brake) fully, & turning the engine off before attempting to shift again. Even if you are able to release it you need to have it checked/fixed as soon as possible.
when i put my foot on the clutch the oil light comes on is it dangerous? I have a ford focus eco sport 1ltr
@@UKAndrewL If the oil light comes on it's signalling low oil pressure, which could be an issue with the oil pump or even just low oil levels. Sometimes the clutch can slightly change engine load or RPMs, triggering the light if pressure is borderline. Another possibility could be a sensor issue, like a faulty oil pressure sensor that’s picking up changes when you press the clutch. Either way, it’s best to get it checked out soon. Running with low oil pressure can be dangerous for the engine, so maybe top up your oil if it’s low and then have a mechanic take a look a.s.a.p.
I got a an issue where the car would go into 3rd and hard shift into it and when I put it into D the light won't show up on the cluster
@@AE-Detailing could be due to a faulty TCM, issues with wiring or transmission range sensor or transmission solenoid. Poor shifting may also be due to low or dirty transmission fluid. As for the 'D' light not showing, the problem might lie with the instrument cluster itself or an internal mechanical issue within the transmission. If you can, check for any trouble codes using an OBD-II scanner.
@@Viosified i figured out the d problem it was the neutral safety switch but now the N not showing up lmao but yeah when I put the scanner no codes comes up Im thinking of changing the shifting sensors see if that’s the problem
@@AE-Detailing Haha, glad you figured out the D problem, the neutral safety switch can be tricky. Swapping out the shifting sensors sounds like a solid next step. Hopefully, that resolves it-good luck!
My Honda Rebel has developed a clanking noise, primarily in lower gears, while accelerating, and generally while the clutch is not being pressed. The bike may stutter and I feel a sudden loss of power without feeling like the clutch is engaged (no sudden high RPMs). Any suggestions?
The loss of power is brief, but it comes with the clanking sound, and I can generally power through it. Once I'm in 4th gear, there is no problems, while 1st and 2nd are the worst. Could this be something to do with the transmission rather than the clutch?
@@mountainmanxyz It could be an issue w/ the transmission, possibly the chain & sprockets. The clanking noise in lower gears & the brief loss of power could be due to issues w/ the gears or gear dogs. Worn or damaged gears/gear dogs can cause improper engagement w/c can cause noise & power loss. A dirty, loose or worn-out chain & sprockets can produce clanking noises & affect power delivery. Check the transmission oil level, chain tension & inspect the sprockets for wear, including the drivetrain (bolts or bearings, even engine mounts). These are just pointers that might help you identify the cause of the problem but a visit to your bike mechanic is still the best course of action for a thorough diagnosis.
My clutch pedal was getting stuck stopped coming up kept having to relift it from the floor while driving. It got to a point where the pedal just stuck and when i pushed down i couldn’t get into gear. All within 5-10 mins. never had any symptoms i assumed air in system. The mechanics saying i might need to do the works gearbox clutch flywheel slave cylinder master cylinder never had any problems shifting gears no sounds or smells and i dont know the mechanics😢
@@krimeking007 It sounds like your clutch issue could be related to a hydraulic failure, specifically with the clutch master or slave cylinder. Since you're having trouble getting the pedal to return after pressing it & now can’t shift gears, it’s likely that one or both of these components is failing, which prevents the clutch from disengaging properly. Air in the system could also cause these symptoms, but if the problem escalated that quickly, it's more likely that the seals in the master or slave cylinder have worn out, or there’s a fluid leak.
I'm not entirely sure about the mechanic’s recommendation to replace the clutch, gearbox, flywheel, and hydraulics, but it could be a precautionary measure based on his diagnostics, especially if he noticed significant wear or if you're uncertain about the car's history. However, I’d suggest thoroughly inspecting the clutch hydraulics and checking for any fluid leaks first, before committing to a full gearbox/clutch replacement.
Relatively new to Manual and have been having some issues when shifting. For context during my first year of ownership i banged each gear and tended to rev the engine to the redline but didnt typically go past 6,500 rpm. I have mellowed out a bit and try to give my clutch and syncronizers time to function. I recently over the past 3 months have been running a shift knob extentsion and have been paying much closer attention to the feel of my shifts. Sometimes its great other times theres a insane amount of resistance. Whether rev matching before releasing or not with the clutch depressed it should or used to be a smooth transition from gear to gear and now it intermitently is stiff or easy when moving the shift knob. Im unsure what the exact issue is because clutchless shifting or more commonly double clutching seem to feel better. I suspect the clutch disc may be on its way out honestly but any tips advice or expeirence working on manuals is appreciated. My car is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport 1.6L
@@Lii-hu5dh It sounds like aggressive shifting early on may have caused some wear and tear on your transmission components. I suggest you look into possible issues like worn clutch disc, damaged synchros, misaligned shift linkage, or contaminated or low transmission fluid. Your use of a shift knob extension might also be amplifying these issues. Consider having your clutch inspected and possibly replaced, checking the synchros for wear, adjusting and lubricating the shift linkage, and replacing the transmission fluid. Testing shifts without the knob extension can help determine if it’s contributing to the problem.
@@Viosified I figured as much but thanks I truly do appreciate your time and response, ill get it checked out when its finacially feaseable. I have an auto i can fall back onto but it wont be the same.
@@Lii-hu5dh You're welcome! It’s great that you have a backup car to use in the meantime. Hopefully, once you get the manual checked out and repaired, you'll be back to enjoying it even more. Have a good one!
Mine stays still when I’m first or any gear and revved up.
sounds like a worn clutch causing slippage
Mines rough when changing gears and then sometimes its fine im sure its the clutch but im not sure
@@michaelrobinson4165 It might be due to a worn clutch disc or pressure plate (common in vehicles with higher mileage), or possibly a problem with the clutch fluid (if low or contaminated, the hydraulic system might not function properly). Sometimes, a misadjusted clutch pedal or bite point can also cause difficulty in shifting gears smoothly. It could also point to issues within the transmission itself (worn synchronizers, etc). If it persists, you might want to have a mechanic inspect the clutch system or transmission to pinpoint the exact cause.
I only have the 2nd symptom.
maybe slave cylinder cheap try
Did you find out what it was? I have the same issue and hoping my clutch isn’t worn completely
@@HAXUSOfficial Yes the turbo has gone bad.
Just turn the radio up.
I got a 2003 350z recently and it grinds in 2nd and 3rd gear and when I push in clutch and rev it grinds bad bad so I don’t do it. When I went into reverse (push down and right then down) it popped out of gear? It grinded real bad I had to reengage reverse for it to back. Assuming it’s the tranny but I’m new to Nissan
The only thing wrong with it and power bank 1 needs replacing but other than that it’s fine
The grinding in 2nd & 3rd gear & the tranny popping out of reverse could be caused by worn synchros, a faulty or improperly adjusted clutch, low or incorrect transmission fluid, damaged gear teeth or bearings, or issues with the shift linkage. Your mechanic should be able to check the transmission fluid level & quality, clutch engagement, inspect the shift linkage for alignment & other components.
@@Viosified hmmm interesting ok because the previous owner claimed they did change the clutch and the issue is relatively inconsistent except for the shifting part so maybe they didn’t adjust the clutch properly?
@@PrplexedMG yes, that is possible (if the issues have been going on for a while damage to other components is also a possibility). In the meantime, you can try adjusting the clutch pedal bite point and see if that helps. Here's a link on how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/4yahxd28Ctg/v-deo.htmlsi=_p7MeY2bMCkocKxm
My 2016 hyundai elantra just stop moving in forward 2 days ago, it only reverses, sometimes it only pulls off in a different gear or after being warmed up so long but doesnt want to move everytime any ideas?
That's a bummer.. Potential culprits include one or a combination of transmission malfunctions, such as low or contaminated transmission fluid, faulty transmission solenoids, or internal transmission damage. Clutch-related issues (in manual transmissions), torque converter problems, or ECM/TCM malfunctions may contribute to the symptoms. It's also essential to check the transmission fluid level & condition of the fluid, inspect sensors & switches related to the transmission, and consider the possibility of mechanical damage or wear within the transmission. If u don't have the necessary tools & due to the complexity of diagnosing transmission problems, seeking assistance frm your mechanic or Hyundai dealership is advisable. They can perform a thorough diagnosis and recommend the necessary repairs. Good luck! Thanks for watching.
Just 2nd and 3rd
Hi mate with me is when iam driveing could be in any gear the revs go up and feels like iam going take off i got fight with it ????
Try resetting the ECU and see if it helps: ua-cam.com/video/3vixDnKlDhU/v-deo.htmlsi=pxPta2k_VX1-jb0X
Thank you mate il try it 👍
What does it mean if I only smell it if I’m on high rpms. Usually on 4th gear. Should I be shifting sooner and just go to 5th?
If you're experiencing a burning smell from your clutch, especially at high RPMs and in higher gears like 4th, it could indicate excessive clutch wear or slipping. It is best to have your mechanic inspect your clutch system asap.
My car is almost at 200,000 Kilometers and I've put about less than 20k Kilometers since ownership, so I've no clue if it has a history of clutch assembly replacement during the previous ownership. However, It feels extremely different from when I first owned it to now. It's a 5 speed manual, Before from 1st to 4th I can actually feel the car pull away and I'd be doing 100+km/h, Now from 1st - 4th I'd be doing 100km/h but during the shifting process through each gears, the RPM goes up but it doesn't match the speed shown, Most cars would be following the speed limit, while my car shows that I'm doing the same speed on the odometer but it looks like i'm doing 10 under. I'm suspecting that My clutch is starting to go since I've only noticed it recently, just wanna pick at your brain a bit and hear some thoughts before following through with the tranny pull. Thanks!
Also, this is my first manual vehicle I learned how to drive stick with this car, I also drive like an idiot often to test theories.
Your guess is as good as mine... Based on the symptoms you've described, it's likely that your clutch is worn out & starting to slip, leading to a disconnect between engine speed & vehicle speed. This would explain your observation of why the RPM goes up without a corresponding increase in actual speed. Given the mileage of your car and the symptoms you mentioned, it's a smart move to get it sorted out as soon as possible.
I wish you the best! 👍
@@Viosified I appriciate the immediate response greatly. The plan is to pull it out this weekend and find out, if that happens i'll try to get back here and give an update for reference purposes. Thanks a lot have a great weekend👍
Likewise, and thank you for dropping by. Good luck! 🙏🙂
I was speeding so I downshifted without reducing speed then the car made a loud sound and my clutch became hard to engage
aggressive downshifting/engine braking can cause damage to the clutch, flywheel, transmission, or related components; or possibly exacerbate an underlying issue. Have it checked ASAP.
for me, the clutch pedal gets stuck when pressed down.
when i pull pedal back, it seems loose, and the transmission is not engaged…
potential causes could include issues with the clutch system, such as hydraulic fluid leaks, malfunctioning master or slave cylinders, problems with the clutch linkage, such as worn-out bushings, damage to the clutch fork or pivot ball, wear and tear on the clutch disc or pressure plate, broken or weak clutch springs, or issues with the clutch pedal assembly. Consider visiting your mechanic for a thorough inspection and repair.
@@Viosified
thanks.
i’ve replaced timing belts and have done a valve adjustment before, so i think this is just another challenge for me to do.
regarding your suggestions, i suspected as much. just wanted a second opinion.
the clutch itself may be fine. i started the engine in 1st gear on an uphill and the car kept going (had to get it home).
but definitely the other stuff are suspect.
@@darthvirgin7157 good luck & thanks for watching!
Buying a car the guy says first gear is hard to get into it it’s a mt82 2016 , but he says it has new clutch . Issue still there .
Sounds like a money pit. Please don't buy it.
Yeah don't buy it could also be the gear box linkages in the engine bay normally 3 linking rods that just push on simple to fit but there costly mine cost 180 pounds for the 3 rods I got genuine parts costly 💯🤔👍
I hear squit sounds from the clutch anytime I want to change the gear
a little bit of oil on the pedal spring & pin might help.
I think mine went bad yesterday. 1-2nd hard then high rev and no acceleration then hit back into gear
@@blackheartsmarine0351 clutch is likely slipping, hope you can get it fixed right away
@@Viosified I’m gonna have it towed to my local shop that specializes in foreign cars this week. Hopefully that’s all it is
@@blackheartsmarine0351 sounds like a plan, I hope everything goes well. Best of luck!
Mine revs up when I go in to 1st gear and others but I can go if I ease in in it
Potential causes could include a worn or slipping clutch, issues with the clutch cable or hydraulic system, problems with the clutch release bearing, transmission issues like worn synchros or a damaged gearbox, issues with RPM or throttle position sensors, or complications related to a damaged or worn flywheel. It could be one or a combination of these factors. Diagnosing car issues remotely can be challenging, and it's always recommended to have a mechanic inspect your vehicle in person.
mine has all of those things
I hope they get sorted out soon.
Thanks for watching!
Same and the clutch has gone now
mine clutch and flywheel@@damien706
@@damien706did you get it sorted was it the clutch
I have a Toyota 1998 RAV4 manual transmission the vehicle lost power then stayed stuck the gearbox stuck in fifth gear The clutch is soft anybody have any ideas
the soft clutch pedal could be due to low fluid level or from a leak in the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, or air pockets in the hydraulic lines. The gearbox being stuck in fifth gear may indicate issues with the transmission gear selector or linkage, preventing the gearbox from shifting into other gears. Another possibility is a problem with the clutch release mechanism (clutch release bearing or clutch fork), which could be causing incomplete disengagement of the clutch. Lastly, worn or damaged pressure plate or clutch disc could cause slippage & loss of power, which makes it difficult, if not impossible, for the engine to provide sufficient torque to the wheels.
Mine feels kinda clunky when shifting from 1 to 2nd gear. Could This be due to a worn clutch piece? Or is it just me?
The clunky feeling when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear in a manual tranny vehicle can be attributed to various factors, including potential clutch wear, worn synchronizers, damaged gear teeth, improper shifting technique, low or contaminated transmission fluid, etc.. To accurately diagnose and address the issue, it's advisable to consult a qualified mechanic in your area for a thorough inspection. Thanks for watching!
Burnt smell and tyre wobbling i experienced in a new car
Better take it back to the dealership and have them fix it before things get worse.
2nd symptom hope is clutch
me late in accelartion -> ohhh shit coupling issue. my mechanic -> wait for the Turbo idiot.
😂😂
Stil okay
Seal with hair spray
My clutch makes a rattling noise when my foot is off and the car is idling. Can you tell me please what could be wrong thank you.
@@lionslove779 it could be due to a worn clutch release bearing. It might also be related to a loose pedal, or clutch fork or a worn input shaft bearing in the transmission. While this is just my opinion based on what you've described, it's a good idea to have your mechanic take a look sooner rather than later.
@@Viosified thank you
Recently changed the clutch 😅feels great 👍😃 with great 🛻 pickup 🛻🎉
Ford ranger clutch remains depressed suddenly during trip. The clutch still works but it seems that it requires me to push down the clutch much further than usual as it sticks at a certain height. What could be the problem? Great video btw
that may stem frm problems within the clutch hydraulic system (such as issues w/ the master cylinder, slave cylinder, or hydraulic lines) potentially caused by low fluid level, leaks or air in the system. Or, if your vehicle model uses a mechanical clutch linkage, the problem could lie w/ a stretched, frayed, or damaged clutch cable. Another possible reason are issues with the clutch release bearing, fork, clutch disc or pressure plate.