Thank you 👍🏼 you have a natural talent in communication. Priceless information about our cars. My 05 R52 is coming up on 90k miles, it's completely stock and next winter the engine is coming in the house for a complete overhaul, 🤣 that's what I do, retired mechanic. If ever you're in the Port Huron, Michigan, area, give me a holler 👍🏼😎
It must have been so satisfying to have found the source of the problem. The symptoms of this condition are so unique that the diagnosis can be made next time. Thank you for your insight.
I tell you what! you've made me want to get one of this cars (a 2006 S) just by watching your videos. I've been wanting to get a car to tinker with, I like to fix/customize my cars and your clear explanation and video are the best, it lifts my confidence to get in there and fix whatever it needs. I have to finish a Honey List and install my air suspension in a different car and I think I might get one. I don't own one yet and I will subscribe. Keep up the great work!
hi mod mini, i tuoi video esono fantastici, le spiegazioni dettagliate, grande professionista, io ho una mini cooper s r53 , guardando i tuoi video ho imparato ad eseguire le riparazioni dell'auto senza problemi, essendo stato un meccanico negli anni 70. Grazie ancora roberto
hey mod,rwrote to u awhile back about a thump when going over small bumps in the road.i installed new pbs urethane bushings on control arms,new shocks,new tie rod ends,new towers..but still same noise,ugh.but found problem it was bushings from front sway bar replaced and all is well.oh i forgot to say the vid for the control arm bushing installment and home made tool great job,followed your intructions worked perfect.thx again
Great vid! Thanks. Thinking bout replacing this on my 06 MCS. Pushing 70k on the orginal and I've noticed some throttle issues that I think are realted to this valve. Also getting an odor from the egine compartment at speed when the car is pushed a bit that I believe is the drive belt slipping on the supercharger. Belt looks like the original. Thanks again for your vids. Great stuff!
I wasn’t understanding at first. But you are correct. I watched one of your videos and my car reacted the same. I was at idle put my car in fourth, released the clutch and it did not stall it actually moved forward to my shock. It is definitely the clutch and I hope my flywheel is still good. I am familiar with taking the front end apart because your video showed me how to do it to get my alternator so I’m half way there. Thank you so much for your help! I will keep you updated on my clutch change. Could I send you pictures? I’m 10% scared but I’ll be around other licensed mechanics in case I get into a snag. But I’m confident I can do it. I really care about my car.
Hello. First off I really like your videos. They have helped me work on my girlfriend's 2003 Mini. I've been able to do a ton of work without taking it to a shop. I recently took off the cover to the air filter to check it. Of course it was dirty. It's the original OEM one from the factory. The care was bought used and it looked like it was never replaced. After cleaning the air filter the power of the car came right back. It is the original round one not the flat one that can be bought at auto part stores. This is where my issue began. A vacuum hose came off that cannot be seen. The service engine light is on now. We have tried to reconnect it. My hands are too big and my girlfriend tried to reconnect it. We aren't sure if it is. I'm not sure if there are any vacuum hoses that are related to the air filter that would throw a code out like that. My only recourse is to take the engine apart as you have in this video and see if a vacuum hose is disconnected or broken. Any insight would be helpful. I hope my description makes sense to you. Thank you. Chris
Chris Seifert Sounds like you have a JCW. There is one vacuum line between the air box and intake. It falls off near the bypass valve. Anything beyond that, it would be impossible to say much without seeing the car.
Yes it is a JCW. I forgot to mention there was one short and I mean short hose that wasn't connected to anything that I'm aware of. Thank you for the reply.
I was able to connect the hose to the airbox lid. this little hose does not go to the air box. I have no idea where it goes. When I get a chance to work on the car and take it apart as you have in the video I may find where it goes. Her car has no flat spots in acceleration I doubt its the bypass valve throwing the service engine light.
Thanks for your great videos, very informative and easy to follow. What I have going is intermittent limp mode with codes of P1125, and P1229. How can I diagnosis the difference between problems with throttle body or bypass valve. I don't want to just replace parts if not needed. Thanks for your time in response.
So if I want to test this to do the zip tie method I want it to stay pushed in or pulled out kinda confused....my symptoms is supercharger lagging or not coming in at all occasionally and makes a drowning cat sound while winding up for a few seconds hope this is it and not something major did just replace the oil in the s/c
im having a random issue where i lose power like how you described in the beginning of the video but its at random times. this one time i floored it to pass a car, and after i passed him, i let go of the pedal and i started experiencing what you said, the car was loosing power , it would not accelerate no more than 3k rpm. i had to stop on the side of the road and turn off my car and turn it back on to reset what ever was happening. i have a 2006 mini cooper s jcw also
Thank you so much for your videos. I have a problem with my Mini regarding the super charger. My Cooper S doesn't work. There is no whining and the car does go rather slow. The car also goes limp if i accelerate to fast even in 6th gear on the motorway occasionally! In this case I will have to turn the car off, wait at least 3 seconds and then turn it back on. If I don't wait 3 seconds the car makes a cringing, staticy, scraping noise. The dealer said it was because of the Bypass valves and MAP sensor. I would much appreciate any feed back.
I can't really say anything based on this. The dealer is probably correct. Press on the spring like I said in the video. If there is almost no resistance, you might have a bad BPV. It is unlikely that the BPV and MAP sensor failed at the same time. A bad BPV will cause various codes as I mention in the video description.
***** I took out the bypass valve and it seems to have good resistance. the spring seems to be good. is there a way test to see if it leaking. Or do you think it could be something else?
BigSteveRealtor I suppose it can be done without removing the bumper but it's a lot easier. There is cutting involved. As a general rule I only add people on Facebook that I have met in person.
***** Okay Ill wait since you are probably correct that it would be better with the front fascia removed. I also understand about the meeting people for FB. I was only hoping because if I were to have questions I could address them to you easier. Check me out on FB Stephen Modica and you can decide from there.
I am always captivated by the detail on these tutorials. My MCS has been playing up in the same way! Thanks for the pointers,I have carried out the manual check and have low pressure resistance on the vac valve spring, new one on order, keep up the great work, thank you!
What are the 2 lines going into the supercharger intake tube called? One gos to the brake booster but I need to know the ather one my mini is missing that line and the intake hole is plugged trying to fix it but need help knowing we’re to start! Thanks
Great video as usual, thanks heaps! Just changed out the valve cover gasket (from another of your wonderful videos) and noticed the other end of the vacuum hose from the throttle body (you mention it at 4:49 in this video) is blocked off at the other end on mine and just floating free. There is a square looking connector just behind the intercooler tube on the other end of the motor that seems to have a plastic seal around it and it just floats free not attached to anything. Is that normal? The vehicle was only 83,000km old when I got it and had only ever been serviced at the BMW dealership it was originally purchased from. Very strange...
Hey you could be right there. The vacuum connectors on the inside back edge of ercooler connector is only one not two like most descripti Na I see (and mine had fallen off - put it back on and it fell off again too).. this is the connector I mentioned, this is the drive belt end of the engine goo.gl/photos/1HsnyPSvSzDgM2u37
I just realized the connector that fell off is the vacuum line to the fuel pressure sensor. Judging by the oil stains under the connector it has been off for a while too. I have cable tied it on now and hopefully that will last a while longer!
Hey miss your demos @ModMINI I am having misfire and p1498 & p1477codes and pushed the valve and should their be resistance or none (harder to push) if it's easy to push it's a bad valve? Thanks
I just will like to say that i follow yors knowleage clips this one is second i did my bypass valve today, tuned one i found no jojo even my is 2004 and i bit more exhaust sound? Will just like tovsay thank you for all clips as helpt me understand my cooper s, last Sunday did radiator like u and big help woz two long bolts to holds frame woz great fun and i fell proud of to do things my self... Thank you again i keep follow.
Hey Mod mini thanks for all your vids man, great stuff. Hey i replaced my bpv on a car that was working fine besides a lack of boost and now when i start the car, itsss weird reving and wont hold idle. I had a look at the bpv with the engine sortta running and it not opening. Gives me the codes 1109 and 1242. Did i break something? it is a little wiggely on the green gasket on the supercharger side of the crappy plastic tube Any ideasss??? Thanks in advance.
Hey love ur vids . Got a question . Got an EP light n I can’t get it to go off , did trans flush with additive. Changed batt alt . Still got an ep light . Can I get a little help. I have an 06 mcsa. Cleared code n comes right back on when I start instantly.
Double check the vacuum line from the air box. I just had the vacuum line from the air box to the bypass valve crushed between the two halves of the air box. P1689 No other codes.
Does this often go bad on the facelift R53s? Mine feels like I don't have boost, and from inside it sounds like air is rushing out when accelerating, but on the surface everything seems tight. I don't think the car is throwing any codes either as there are no extra lights on the dashboard. Thanks for your videos, they've proven useful already once before when replacing my driveshaft.
Nice video. Nice analysis of the failure. This job looks like it would be easier with the car in service position. Particularly with those lower hose clamps. You need a pair of Clic R pliers. Perhaps a radiator hose pick would work to install the intercooler boot.
Garth Goldberg I suppose service mode would open up space a bit more but if you are replacing with a worm type hose clamp, it shouldn't be necessary and saves a lot of work. I've survived without a Clic R plier until now but maybe will get one someday! Radiator hose pick would work for the intercooler boot as well.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have to replace it on my girls mini. Like a lot of your videos cause they helped me to repair all the stuff so easily. Greetings from Germany!
That was very helpful, thank you for sharing this information. I will investigate mine now as i have a similar fault and have suspected this valve for a while. Once again many thanks
hi great videos and explanations....im have a problem with my r53 after changing the 02 sensors....the car started getting a ruff idle then to regular and back and forth without throwing any codes....do you have any ideas or had this problem before??...thanks in advance for your time!
Wait a little, it might be just correcting adaptations based on the new o2 sensors. Also, if you used Bosch sensors, get rid of them. The car needs NGK/NTK sensors - this one. amzn.to/2dAFDJi
Hi Mod MINI, Great video! Lately My 2005 Mini Cooper S can't rev more than 5k rpm(acts kind of like a rev limiter) and throws DSC light and OBD code P0108. I replaced both MAP sensors, fixed few vacuum leaks etc with no luck resolving the loss of power and rev limiting. was suspecting the BPV at one point, but, noticed it has a solid pressure when I tried to move the valve while the car is off. Also noticed it moves from one position to another when the car is rev'd up and let go of gas pedal. Is it a good test the zip tie the BPV while the car is off and expect the car to behave normal ? you think this issue is related to BPV or something else? Thanks for any insight you could provide!
I have a similar problem i lose power like my mini will bee on the freeway and the car will feel like i let go of the accelerator and press on it again, when im firmly pressing it. And it will do it on the street sometimes too the only thing that doesnt match is the 3k rpm and i have no check engine light do you think it might be related to this valve?
hi..can I ask you a quick question re the bypass valve..I've just put 15% pulley on my 2003 r53 along with a davef and decatted the car..put the car on the dyno before and after and it made less power..one thing I noticed was my bypass is exactly the same as you showed if not worse..it's basically free moving no resistance and won't spring back..would the car not build boost and loose say up to 40hp..unfortunately it's put the car back before seeing this video but I know now..so I'm going for a 1320 bypass or possible detroit one anyway..great vids..helped alot
Absolutely a broken BPV will prevent the car from building boost. If you did not get a tune, it also is possible to have less power if you've changed back pressure and other characteristics of the car. But more likely, the extra boost may have caused a weak valve to break. What is a davef? Just so you know, Detroit Tuned valve will change the way the car performs a little - car will be more jerky on quick throttle release and you will lose 1-2 mpg fuel economy.
+Mod MINI thanks for the reply..I didn't think a tune would matter as I didn't touch injectors or timing with cams etc but I'll look into it.. sorry the davef is just an enclosed airbox with better airflow from the back of the scuttle. proved to be the best airbox even over a jcw box and much so over the likes of alta. I'm over here in Ireland so small tuning community we kinda piggy back off the the UK when it comes tuning..thanks again I'll change the bypass valve..I'll use the 1320.co.uk valve alot have said the detroit was a bit snappy
A tune matters any time you change volumetric efficiency which is what happens when you change out stuff like exhaust components that increase airflow and reduce back pressure. Detroit is snappy. Installed one to get rid of a yoyo at part throttle at around 4000rpm. It improved that but took a while to get used to the snappiness. I kind of like it now - I can make it pop/burble on command with a snap throttle lift.
Hi Mike. I have an R53 Works -05. The idling varies between 700rpm and 900rpm and sometimes it stops even at red lights. Do you possibly know what it could be due to
Great videos! I have a 2003 S have done a ton work thanks to your detailed videos. Not sure if this could be related to the bypass valve but if I pull off the oil fill cap there is a positive pressure (no vac.) a rag actually blows in the wind. I'm not getting any codes and the car generally seems to run ok. Is positive pressure in the crankcase normal?
That's normal and is due to compressed air escaping past the piston rings and entering the crankcase. That's what the PCV and breather hoses are for. They suck up the blow-by gases. It's also why you don't want to run the car with the fill cap off - it will spray a fine oily mist everywhere.
How would you reccomend going about zip tying the bpv? I'm having sluggish performance (its an absolute dog under 3k). I reached down there and surprisingly there's almost too much tension. It feels as if it corroded slightly. As it closes, you can feel resistance. So I'm thinking it may have trouble closing once it has been opened under normal circumstances/driving situations. I just can't seem to find a good way to zip it closed haha
Chicago06sti If you can feel any lack of smoothness it's probably shot. You'd just find something nearby or even stick a screwdriver in there to zip tie around it...
I'm getting the dt bypass valve just because I already have a bunch of aftermarket performance mods so why not , they help boost come on a bit faster but obv will effect mileage but I have my Cooper for a fun sporty car not a gas saver ..
Ok I understand that got the car back today and befor I got it home it thowed a engine proformance light on the tack the engine speed shop replaced blow off valve it's a forge blow off valve I have noticed that when it rains I have no trouble light and the car has good power do you have any clue were I need to start
Bud Bullis Sorry, I don't have experience with this issue. I would pull the codes and then do some Googling using that code + blow off valve and see what comes up, then filter out the obvious garbage / wrong answers.
Did you used to make bmw repair videos as well? Thanks for this, super helpful! My 05 mini S has a surging feel during acceleration but no codes. Going to check the spring pressure right now 😀
Hey it's Juan again I'm here with the car I told u about and I don't c any thing that I left disconnected is it possible dat that the electric throttled got dis programs or something with the timing chain cuz I did put the new timing chain tensioner the car also turns off if I press the gas pedal
+Juan Garcia Sorry, this sounds like the kind of thing that is not possible to diagnose further over the Internet. Is it possible your timing is off / chain jumped several teeth? Might need to pull the timing cover and have a look. Other than sensors, I can't think of anything else. I assume you already unplugged/reconnected all the sensors.
Bud Bullis I've only ever replaced the blowoff spring, which took only a half hour. I'm just guessing and haven't replaced one, but I guess the entire valve could be changed in an hour or two?
Question my 06 Cooper s has been hesitating and stuttering at lower rpms along with an evap leak code. Started off as p0455 large leak. I spent a $1000 having a smoke test done and a bunch of parts replaced that I already knew were no good as well. Such as o2 sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, map sensor, supercharger intake tube (smoke test determined leak was coming from this tube) and some other ignition parts. But my question is that can this bypass valve cause an evap leak? It’s been an issue since I bought the car haven’t been able to locate it yet. My car also went into limp mode on me before the work was done and read p0301 misfire cylinder 1. Could this bypass valve be my main issue?
Hello, my 2005 Mini S begins withholding power and I received a code of P1688. investigating, I found oil in the rubber on either side of the inter cool. Is that to be expected ? If not, what would you suggest is the issue. The MAP looked absolutely new and the bypass vale had minimal deposits and cleaned up nicely. Thank you-Patrick
Oil in the boots is normal. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/198843-p1688-code-on-02-r53.html Bypass valve can be clean and still failed. Check spring for proper tension and no roughness. Pull a vacuum on it and see if it holds. Sometimes the diaphragm is torn. Otherwise it could be failing crank pulley usually accompanied by burning rubber smell.
Hi my car misfires as I floor the car and the bypass valve is really stiff a lot of resistance Do you think I should try changing the byroads valve, and how can I check if that is culprit Hoping for ur reply
I have the sometimes yo-yo on acceleration but no codes. 159k miles. I have already replaced coil, plugs, wires, fuel filter. Any other hints to determine if it is indeed the bypass valve going out?
Really great, informative diy vid. My fiance drives an '06 Mini S, and although she's not experiencing this same problem, I'm thinking they may be related? Here's what's going on - the car will suddenly just stall out. Doesn't seem to have any loss of power, and generally starts right up, but it is happening more frequently now. Cut out four times today alone. Very low mileage for an '06, (I think it's around 60K). Any chance you would be willing to discuss over the phone?
Dan W That's probably something different. Any check engine codes? Sorry, but I don't have enough free time to discuss car problems with fans/viewers over the phone. Sounds like an electrical problem more than anything else. Loose engine ground, loose battery terminals, weak battery.
***** Thanks for the quick response. Check engine and EML light did come on. Waiting to hear back from dealer service on any codes, (having repairs done elsewhere if I can't work it out. You wouldn't happen to be in the NYC area, would you?). I'll check the terminals, battery integrity and look for a loose ground, but I believe every time it's happened it starts right up again. Of course I can't say for sure if that's the case, since the fiance is the one driving that car 99% of the time.
Dan W For the cost of a dealer diagnostic you can get a decent code reader and pull the codes yourself. Sometimes they are a mystery, sometimes not. WA State.
***** Yeah, it's on the 'to purchase' list, but I had to get some sort of code answer info quickly, as she uses the car daily. I'll post tomorrow whatever I find out. This is what they came back with today - FOUND SHUT OFF VALVE DEFECTIVECAUSING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND INTAKE BOOT IS DRY AND CRACKING I'm GUESSING they're talking about the bypass valve? BTW If you happen to know of any good, independent garages in the NY/NJ area, it would be greatly appreciated.
have you ever heard of tank venting system on a r53 mini cooper s. my reader is telling me the large leak . I have replaced the valve on right front of valve cover , the pump connected to canister on right wheel well. I keep getting this code. could it be the hoses to tank?
@@ModMINI , thank you sir for the response. have done the smoke test at pep boys and resulted in no smoke coming from no where . I have replaced every valve I can find or that goes bad. I'm to the point of getting down the gas tank to check it myself since I want it fixed. just don't have a clue on what else it could be. reader says tank venting system but I don't know what else goes bad in the car if I should replace the entire gas tank hose assembly next.
+Mod MINI I bought a 2006 mini cooper S recently, the car has no Check engine light but when i blip the Gas pedal quickly at Idle the rpms go down and then up as if power goes away and then comes back. and the Engine throttle response is very late at lower rpms and It feels very sluggish too, when i first start in 1st the car jerks and then goes. I just changed the Spark Plugs, Air filter and Fuel Filter but that didn't seems to help one bit. Is there a chance that it might be the Bypass valve? If not what possible cause could it be? i did notice the coil pack is rusty if that effects performance.
Bypass valve symptom is generally as I describe in the video description. Bad coil pack or a vacuum leak could also get you symptoms like you describe. All R53 don't have much power at low RPM.
***** Ok well I take back what I said about the tune up, it helped my car become alot smoother even more after the fuel system cleaner and its not as sluggish anymore but the laggy throttle response is there but not as much. The coil pack and wires are good. So I'm gonna check for vacuum leak and check fuel/air ratio on the obd2. Thank you!
I've got the exact same problem at 3k it's like its reclining but no power a dead spot stick thr foot down and off it goes like a scalded cat. I'm getting upgraded one
I’m in a little trouble and I need your help. My 05 Mini Cooper s has no power. I can put my foot on the gas and rev the engine and my car goes very slow. The strange thing is no check engine light. I have no acceleration. I put in an additive for the gas maybe thinking it was a fuel system issue. That did not work. My car works so hard to go nowhere. Can you help?
Hey need some help I have a Mini Cooper base. Hatchback and we put a new timing chain tensioner but we took of the electric throttle and disconnected it from the wires .. After we was done we put everything together but now it turns Gud at first but then the gas pedal doesn't accelerate
Will the bypass valve cause the eml light to come on? My eml light comes on often but only at idle. I have to turn the car off and back on to reset it so I can drive at normal power. Any ideas of what else could cause the my eml light and loss of power? Thanks.
Laurie Ostapovicz Definitely get that fixed. Any leak in intake air path could cause air mass calculation issues. A leak after the air filter can result in dirty air (and even large objects) getting in to the engine, which could be very bad as well. The intake air tube is before the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor but it may be sensitive to back pressure. I know one time I tried to move my MINI with the air filter removed and it ran very oddly.
thank you. I will definitely order a new one. Where do you order mini parts? i couldn't find an acceptable one on eBay. Or maybe i'm typing in the wrong product description.
Laurie Ostapovicz Check realoem.com to find the part number realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=RE33&mospid=48021&btnr=13_0979&hg=13&fg=20 and then search around online for the best price/shipping.
Hi Mod MINI, I have been having the dreaded P0130 pending code coming on when the vehicle is cold. I clear the code, and restart after the engine is warm, and I don't get a pending code. After the usual 2 cycles it goes to a hard code. Changed downstream O2 first for bad heater circuit code, then P0130 came on for the upstream. changed the upstream O2 and code continued to come back with no other codes. Have changed plugs, wires, and fuel filter since without being able to kill the code. When engine is started the fuel circuit goes to open loop, then to Open loop fault. After a few miles it goes to regular closed loop operation. I'm starting to loose motivation with this one. Please advise if you have any ideas. Rich
Yes sir I connected everything back just how it was before ...I double check I even went back and took everything of again and put it back together i didn't put a new throttle gasket didn't think it need a new one
thank you for all the great videos, i just purchased my first mini r53 a few days ago. i have a engine light on, code is p2096. any input on how to fix this. once again thanks for all the great videos. i have learned a lot about these cars
Probably unrelated to bypass valve. That's probably a bad O2 sensor. The pre- and post- cat sensors are the same. Buy this one (link below) and try swapping out the precat sensor first. If the problem doesn't go away, swap positions with the rear sensor and try switching all of them around (the new one + the 2 old ones). When the light stays off, you know which one is the bad one. amzn.to/19A5LgU
i have a question, i went to see a used mini coopers 2003. while test driving i noticed the tempature gauge goeas to the red then back to the middle. is that a potential serious problem about to happen,
Question: is it possible to simply replace the spring inside the bypass valve's membrane body? I have an 05 with a loss in power, bad mpg, and the infamous yo-yo effect. Though it's not that bad yet, I know it's on its way out. Thanks.
+Epo Maybe, but you're likely to break the plastic clips. Also, you'd have to get the spring tension exactly right or the BPV will open/close at the wrong time.
Though my 05 JCW runs ok and doesn't pull any codes, it doesn't seem to really pull hard almost sluggish...I tied off the BPV and did find that it pulled better ...though a bit twichy...( I Had the valve out earlier when I was doing some other engine work and spring and closing seemed pretty good)... being as the BPV isn't all that expensive or hard to change I'm going to go ahead and do it… What has your experience been with Detroit tune valves versus OEM valves?
IslandJCW It would be twitchy with the valve forced closed. That's why the valve is there. :-) I've heard from a pretty well respected performance MINI specialist that it's really not necessary to go with a Detroit Tuned valve. I actually had some BPV flutter in my car at the track when running at high RPM - I could see the air/fuel mixture go rich, and a P1688 code would be thrown. He told me to just get an OEM one, to not bother with Detroit Tuned because it's not worth it.
***** Thanks for the info...I suspected the twitchy behaviour was caused by the forced shut valve...I was leaning towards an OEM unit but thought that maybe the DT unit would add some little pop of boost at lower to mid range....I'm going to stick with an OEM unit!
I just installed a new OEM BPV yesterday as well... I noticed a difference in midrange throttle responsiveness, no 3k sluggishness and better low rpm torque due to valve closing properly. Well worth the cost and time to install. Still curious to try a DT valve to see how the car reacts but being as I live in the Canadian Pacific Northwest, cost of purchase, shipping and duty outweighs my curiosity.
Hello modmini. I have a 2004 pre-facelift r53 with 17% reduction. One week ago had hesitation at low rpm but while during left turns, I’m not sure if it was just me but that is what I noticed. I let the car sit for a week and now it won’t start. I replaced the fuel filter about 4 months ago and the car was fine. I’m not sure how to fully diagnose a bad fuel pump before I throw money at it. Is the OEM not able to keep up with the 17% reduction pulley? Thank you.
Oh, I checked the fuel pump fuse, it was fine. Checked BPV tension and it seemed fine and disconnected TMAP and MAP and tried cranking but nothing. I drove hard through curvy roads with a little over a quarter tank.
Sorry for the paragraphs. I just did the “smack the fuel tank near the driver side rear wheel” trick and the car fired up right away. I guess I will order a new fuel pump?
Sorry for the paragraphs. I just did the “smack the fuel tank near the driver side rear wheel” trick and the car fired up right away. I guess I will order a new fuel pump?
hi think of getting a mini I live in the e.u and I do all my own car work as hobbie I cant afford a works or a high valve mini what is there to watch out for ..like the videos .I did here a awlfull lot of tourble with first gen minis
Thanks for all your great videos, I've restored a few MCS with your info. My question on this video is would a faulty bypass valve also cause the R53 to tick over rough on start up? It feels soft to push compared to my other cars, and it's had a new head build, plugs and coils? Keep up the good work. Cheers Matt
I have a Minicooper s r53 2005 and I think its performance is modest, I can hardly hear the sound of the supercharger, so what you showed may be a problem with the bypass valve. With the replacement, did you feel immediate improvement? Thank you very much.
my car has exactly the same problem, but bpv does have some resistance, ill replace it anyways, but if it doenst fix the problem, do you know what else can cause exact same problem? plus my car rev hangs badly, even tho i have single mass flywheel, and throttle response is also dead even tho its flashed
@@ModMINI thanks for the reply! just checked the oil cap and theres a lot of air coming out of it when u take cap off of oil filler, guessing its a pcv valve
hey, i have a 2005 mini cooper s. i threw a P1688 code a week ago. i replaced my BPV and harmonic balancer. then a couple days later i had the P1688 come back. then the next day a P1687 code. any idea what the P1687 code could be??
Mod MINI hey thanks for the fast comment back!! im going to try to get another TB. i was thinking that was what it was. By the way, your videos are very good!! i want to thank you for making these videos! they help alot!!
i wish every mechanic vid was as detailed, descriptive, involved, and overall as thorough as yours! Ppl need to take notes!
adam failing Thanks. Haha - press the Pause button a lot!
Totally
$90 Bypass valve and an hour of my evening. You saved me $1400 and a headache!!!
Thank you 👍🏼 you have a natural talent in communication. Priceless information about our cars. My 05 R52 is coming up on 90k miles, it's completely stock and next winter the engine is coming in the house for a complete overhaul, 🤣 that's what I do, retired mechanic. If ever you're in the Port Huron, Michigan, area, give me a holler 👍🏼😎
It must have been so satisfying to have found the source of the problem. The symptoms of this condition are so unique that the diagnosis can be made next time. Thank you for your insight.
Just wanted to say thank you for posting your excellent MINI videos. You have a great way of explaining the repairs, it's appreciated a lot. Cheers!
I tell you what! you've made me want to get one of this cars (a 2006 S) just by watching your videos. I've been wanting to get a car to tinker with, I like to fix/customize my cars and your clear explanation and video are the best, it lifts my confidence to get in there and fix whatever it needs. I have to finish a Honey List and install my air suspension in a different car and I think I might get one.
I don't own one yet and I will subscribe. Keep up the great work!
Great video man, just bought a 2003 mini cooper s and all these videos are really helping me out.
hi mod mini, i tuoi video esono fantastici, le spiegazioni dettagliate, grande professionista, io ho una mini cooper s r53 , guardando i tuoi video ho imparato ad eseguire le riparazioni dell'auto senza problemi, essendo stato un meccanico negli anni 70. Grazie ancora
roberto
I really appreciate all of your videos, they are all so detailed and thorough! Thank you for taking the time to do these! Ed
hey mod,rwrote to u awhile back about a thump when going over small bumps in the road.i installed new pbs urethane bushings on control arms,new shocks,new tie rod ends,new towers..but still same noise,ugh.but found problem it was bushings from front sway bar replaced and all is well.oh i forgot to say the vid for the control arm bushing installment and home made tool great job,followed your intructions worked perfect.thx again
Even at the end of 2019 these videos are very good.
How about 2023?
Great vid! Thanks. Thinking bout replacing this on my 06 MCS. Pushing 70k on the orginal and I've noticed some throttle issues that I think are realted to this valve. Also getting an odor from the egine compartment at speed when the car is pushed a bit that I believe is the drive belt slipping on the supercharger. Belt looks like the original. Thanks again for your vids. Great stuff!
Best Gen 1 Mini repair videos on the internet!
Thank you I did this today, my car runs like new and you saved me a fortune. Along with a headache thank you.
can't tell you how grateful I am for this tip. I've been scratching my head for months.
I wasn’t understanding at first. But you are correct. I watched one of your videos and my car reacted the same. I was at idle put my car in fourth, released the clutch and it did not stall it actually moved forward to my shock. It is definitely the clutch and I hope my flywheel is still good. I am familiar with taking the front end apart because your video showed me how to do it to get my alternator so I’m half way there. Thank you so much for your help! I will keep you updated on my clutch change. Could I send you pictures? I’m 10% scared but I’ll be around other licensed mechanics in case I get into a snag. But I’m confident I can do it. I really care about my car.
your videos have helped me with a lot of repairs! thanks so much!!!
I agree with everyone here. your videos are very thorough, well paced and narrated. I reallllly appreciate them. Thank you
Hello. First off I really like your videos. They have helped me work on my girlfriend's 2003 Mini. I've been able to do a ton of work without taking it to a shop.
I recently took off the cover to the air filter to check it. Of course it was dirty. It's the original OEM one from the factory. The care was bought used and it looked like it was never replaced. After cleaning the air filter the power of the car came right back. It is the original round one not the flat one that can be bought at auto part stores.
This is where my issue began. A vacuum hose came off that cannot be seen. The service engine light is on now. We have tried to reconnect it. My hands are too big and my girlfriend tried to reconnect it. We aren't sure if it is.
I'm not sure if there are any vacuum hoses that are related to the air filter that would throw a code out like that.
My only recourse is to take the engine apart as you have in this video and see if a vacuum hose is disconnected or broken.
Any insight would be helpful. I hope my description makes sense to you.
Thank you.
Chris
Chris Seifert Sounds like you have a JCW. There is one vacuum line between the air box and intake. It falls off near the bypass valve. Anything beyond that, it would be impossible to say much without seeing the car.
Yes it is a JCW. I forgot to mention there was one short and I mean short hose that wasn't connected to anything that I'm aware of.
Thank you for the reply.
That goes to the white connector on the airbox lid.
I was able to connect the hose to the airbox lid. this little hose does not go to the air box. I have no idea where it goes. When I get a chance to work on the car and take it apart as you have in the video I may find where it goes. Her car has no flat spots in acceleration I doubt its the bypass valve throwing the service engine light.
Thanks for your great videos, very informative and easy to follow. What I have going is intermittent limp mode with codes of P1125, and P1229. How can I diagnosis the difference between problems with throttle body or bypass valve. I don't want to just replace parts if not needed. Thanks for your time in response.
JUNK PILE..Did you ended up changing both of them? If so, did it change the performance of your mini?
So if I want to test this to do the zip tie method I want it to stay pushed in or pulled out kinda confused....my symptoms is supercharger lagging or not coming in at all occasionally and makes a drowning cat sound while winding up for a few seconds hope this is it and not something major did just replace the oil in the s/c
Is it possible to route the cold air intake towards the front of the car? I always hated that is routed to the back
There is a cold air intake there already. (The black plastic tube)
I’m positive your first diagnosis is correct. I’m getting a Valeo single mass clutch kit with flywheel. It’s good for 250 hp.
im having a random issue where i lose power like how you described in the beginning of the video but its at random times. this one time i floored it to pass a car, and after i passed him, i let go of the pedal and i started experiencing what you said, the car was loosing power , it would not accelerate no more than 3k rpm. i had to stop on the side of the road and turn off my car and turn it back on to reset what ever was happening. i have a 2006 mini cooper s jcw also
Thank you so much for your videos. I have a problem with my Mini regarding the super charger. My Cooper S doesn't work. There is no whining and the car does go rather slow. The car also goes limp if i accelerate to fast even in 6th gear on the motorway occasionally! In this case I will have to turn the car off, wait at least 3 seconds and then turn it back on. If I don't wait 3 seconds the car makes a cringing, staticy, scraping noise. The dealer said it was because of the Bypass valves and MAP sensor. I would much appreciate any feed back.
I can't really say anything based on this. The dealer is probably correct. Press on the spring like I said in the video. If there is almost no resistance, you might have a bad BPV. It is unlikely that the BPV and MAP sensor failed at the same time. A bad BPV will cause various codes as I mention in the video description.
***** I took out the bypass valve and it seems to have good resistance. the spring seems to be good. is there a way test to see if it leaking. Or do you think it could be something else?
Han ozdemir Suck on the tube to confirm the spring retracts.
Another great video! A little more involved than some would have you believe. Keep these videos coming. Any pictures of the disc cooling ducts yet?
BigSteveRealtor I haven't had to take off the front of my car yet...
***** Oh okay I thought you could with just taking off the tire. My bad. I requested your friendship of FB did you get the request?
BigSteveRealtor
I suppose it can be done without removing the bumper but it's a lot easier. There is cutting involved. As a general rule I only add people on Facebook that I have met in person.
***** Okay Ill wait since you are probably correct that it would be better with the front fascia removed. I also understand about the meeting people for FB. I was only hoping because if I were to have questions I could address them to you easier. Check me out on FB Stephen Modica and you can decide from there.
I am always captivated by the detail on these tutorials. My MCS has been playing up in the same way! Thanks for the pointers,I have carried out the manual check and have low pressure resistance on the vac valve spring, new one on order, keep up the great work, thank you!
james robson Yup, if you can easily press it with your pinkie finger, it's probably bad. Good luck.
I always enjoy your videos. Thanks once again Mod MINI.😆
What are the 2 lines going into the supercharger intake tube called? One gos to the brake booster but I need to know the ather one my mini is missing that line and the intake hole is plugged trying to fix it but need help knowing we’re to start! Thanks
Do you have a video that replaces air intake duct? I have EML issue P1498 and independent shop tells me I have a cracked intake duct,..
Hi Ronaldo
Did you resolve your issue? What was the fix?
Great video as usual, thanks heaps! Just changed out the valve cover gasket (from another of your wonderful videos) and noticed the other end of the vacuum hose from the throttle body (you mention it at 4:49 in this video) is blocked off at the other end on mine and just floating free. There is a square looking connector just behind the intercooler tube on the other end of the motor that seems to have a plastic seal around it and it just floats free not attached to anything. Is that normal? The vehicle was only 83,000km old when I got it and had only ever been serviced at the BMW dealership it was originally purchased from. Very strange...
That might be normal for your country. Not sure.
Photos maybe?
Hey you could be right there. The vacuum connectors on the inside back edge of ercooler connector is only one not two like most descripti Na I see (and mine had fallen off - put it back on and it fell off again too).. this is the connector I mentioned, this is the drive belt end of the engine goo.gl/photos/1HsnyPSvSzDgM2u37
I just realized the connector that fell off is the vacuum line to the fuel pressure sensor. Judging by the oil stains under the connector it has been off for a while too. I have cable tied it on now and hopefully that will last a while longer!
Thankyou! I just found my problem and saved a butt load of money
Hey miss your demos @ModMINI I am having misfire and p1498 & p1477codes and pushed the valve and should their be resistance or none (harder to push) if it's easy to push it's a bad valve? Thanks
I just will like to say that i follow yors knowleage clips this one is second i did my bypass valve today, tuned one i found no jojo even my is 2004 and i bit more exhaust sound? Will just like tovsay thank you for all clips as helpt me understand my cooper s, last Sunday did radiator like u and big help woz two long bolts to holds frame woz great fun and i fell proud of to do things my self... Thank you again i keep follow.
Hey Mod mini thanks for all your vids man, great stuff.
Hey i replaced my bpv on a car that was working fine besides a lack of boost and now when i start the car, itsss weird reving and wont hold idle.
I had a look at the bpv with the engine sortta running and it not opening.
Gives me the codes 1109 and 1242.
Did i break something? it is a little wiggely on the green gasket on the supercharger side of the crappy plastic tube Any ideasss???
Thanks in advance.
Hey love ur vids . Got a question . Got an EP light n I can’t get it to go off , did trans flush with additive. Changed batt alt . Still got an ep light . Can I get a little help. I have an 06 mcsa. Cleared code n comes right back on when I start instantly.
Great Video can you comment on how to zip-tie the BPV shut to test boost - thanks.
Tie it shut, if car has lots of power, the vacuum diaphragm may be bad.
Double check the vacuum line from the air box.
I just had the vacuum line from the air box to the bypass valve crushed between the two halves of the air box.
P1689 No other codes.
Can a relief blow off be adapted? someone who has installed a relief blow off to an r53?
A bypass valve is not a blow off valve. Such a modification will confuse the engine computer and you'd get an air mass or unmetered air OBD code.
Your videos are awesome. Very detailed, practical and useful. Like rocket science (to me) simplified with principles demystified. Thank you!
Does this often go bad on the facelift R53s? Mine feels like I don't have boost, and from inside it sounds like air is rushing out when accelerating, but on the surface everything seems tight. I don't think the car is throwing any codes either as there are no extra lights on the dashboard. Thanks for your videos, they've proven useful already once before when replacing my driveshaft.
Yes, part is identical. Check your intercooler boots for cracks or otherwise smoke test for air leaks.
great video and narration!! very easy to follow. super helpful. thank you!
Nice video. Nice analysis of the failure.
This job looks like it would be easier with the car in service position. Particularly with those lower hose clamps.
You need a pair of Clic R pliers.
Perhaps a radiator hose pick would work to install the intercooler boot.
Garth Goldberg I suppose service mode would open up space a bit more but if you are replacing with a worm type hose clamp, it shouldn't be necessary and saves a lot of work.
I've survived without a Clic R plier until now but maybe will get one someday!
Radiator hose pick would work for the intercooler boot as well.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I have to replace it on my girls mini. Like a lot of your videos cause they helped me to repair all the stuff so easily. Greetings from Germany!
That was very helpful, thank you for sharing this information. I will investigate mine now as i have a similar fault and have suspected this valve for a while.
Once again many thanks
hi great videos and explanations....im have a problem with my r53 after changing the 02 sensors....the car started getting a ruff idle then to regular and back and forth without throwing any codes....do you have any ideas or had this problem before??...thanks in advance for your time!
Wait a little, it might be just correcting adaptations based on the new o2 sensors. Also, if you used Bosch sensors, get rid of them. The car needs NGK/NTK sensors - this one. amzn.to/2dAFDJi
thanks a million....i will do this asap and update....thanks again for your time!
Hi Mod MINI, Great video! Lately My 2005 Mini Cooper S can't rev more than 5k rpm(acts kind of like a rev limiter) and throws DSC light and OBD code P0108. I replaced both MAP sensors, fixed few vacuum leaks etc with no luck resolving the loss of power and rev limiting. was suspecting the BPV at one point, but, noticed it has a solid pressure when I tried to move the valve while the car is off. Also noticed it moves from one position to another when the car is rev'd up and let go of gas pedal. Is it a good test the zip tie the BPV while the car is off and expect the car to behave normal ? you think this issue is related to BPV or something else? Thanks for any insight you could provide!
I have a similar problem i lose power like my mini will bee on the freeway and the car will feel like i let go of the accelerator and press on it again, when im firmly pressing it. And it will do it on the street sometimes too the only thing that doesnt match is the 3k rpm and i have no check engine light do you think it might be related to this valve?
Maybe. Check, the spring tension.
I’m also going to check for slipping clutch. Turn him on then if he doesn’t stall after I release the clutch in second gear that’ll confirm it right?
hi..can I ask you a quick question re the bypass valve..I've just put 15% pulley on my 2003 r53 along with a davef and decatted the car..put the car on the dyno before and after and it made less power..one thing I noticed was my bypass is exactly the same as you showed if not worse..it's basically free moving no resistance and won't spring back..would the car not build boost and loose say up to 40hp..unfortunately it's put the car back before seeing this video but I know now..so I'm going for a 1320 bypass or possible detroit one anyway..great vids..helped alot
Absolutely a broken BPV will prevent the car from building boost.
If you did not get a tune, it also is possible to have less power if you've changed back pressure and other characteristics of the car. But more likely, the extra boost may have caused a weak valve to break.
What is a davef?
Just so you know, Detroit Tuned valve will change the way the car performs a little - car will be more jerky on quick throttle release and you will lose 1-2 mpg fuel economy.
+Mod MINI
thanks for the reply..I didn't think a tune would matter as I didn't touch injectors or timing with cams etc but I'll look into it.. sorry the davef is just an enclosed airbox with better airflow from the back of the scuttle. proved to be the best airbox even over a jcw box and much so over the likes of alta. I'm over here in Ireland so small tuning community we kinda piggy back off the the UK when it comes tuning..thanks again I'll change the bypass valve..I'll use the 1320.co.uk valve alot have said the detroit was a bit snappy
A tune matters any time you change volumetric efficiency which is what happens when you change out stuff like exhaust components that increase airflow and reduce back pressure.
Detroit is snappy. Installed one to get rid of a yoyo at part throttle at around 4000rpm. It improved that but took a while to get used to the snappiness. I kind of like it now - I can make it pop/burble on command with a snap throttle lift.
Hi Mike. I have an R53 Works -05. The idling varies between 700rpm and 900rpm and sometimes it stops even at red lights. Do you possibly know what it could be due to
Probably air leak.
Awesome work!!! That's my car :-)
Thanks for letting me work on it. :-)
Great videos! I have a 2003 S have done a ton work thanks to your detailed videos. Not sure if this could be related to the bypass valve but if I pull off the oil fill cap there is a positive pressure (no vac.) a rag actually blows in the wind. I'm not getting any codes and the car generally seems to run ok. Is positive pressure in the crankcase normal?
That's normal and is due to compressed air escaping past the piston rings and entering the crankcase. That's what the PCV and breather hoses are for. They suck up the blow-by gases. It's also why you don't want to run the car with the fill cap off - it will spray a fine oily mist everywhere.
Thanks for the quick reply and reassurance. I was nervous that the high pressure could cause oil leaks. Keep up your great work.
How would you reccomend going about zip tying the bpv? I'm having sluggish performance (its an absolute dog under 3k). I reached down there and surprisingly there's almost too much tension. It feels as if it corroded slightly. As it closes, you can feel resistance. So I'm thinking it may have trouble closing once it has been opened under normal circumstances/driving situations.
I just can't seem to find a good way to zip it closed haha
Chicago06sti If you can feel any lack of smoothness it's probably shot. You'd just find something nearby or even stick a screwdriver in there to zip tie around it...
***** screwdriver worked! Boost came back quite a bit. I guess with 125k..it was bound to go to bpv heaven sooner or later! Thanks for the help! :)
Mine definatley needs doing 03 plate, not very snappy low in the revs goes good when it's get a going but just doesnt feel very snappy at the throttle
I'm getting the dt bypass valve just because I already have a bunch of aftermarket performance mods so why not , they help boost come on a bit faster but obv will effect mileage but I have my Cooper for a fun sporty car not a gas saver ..
I don't have a scanner yet. As soon as I get my hands on one I will send you the codes.
Another awesome video, learning a lot of stuff about my mini from you!
hi!
I have the p1688 code one my jcw 2005,
engine light one,
a little lose power very soft
can be the bypass valve?
thank you
Ok I understand that got the car back today and befor I got it home it thowed a engine proformance light on the tack the engine speed shop replaced blow off valve it's a forge blow off valve I have noticed that when it rains I have no trouble light and the car has good power do you have any clue were I need to start
Bud Bullis Sorry, I don't have experience with this issue. I would pull the codes and then do some Googling using that code + blow off valve and see what comes up, then filter out the obvious garbage / wrong answers.
Did you used to make bmw repair videos as well?
Thanks for this, super helpful! My 05 mini S has a surging feel during acceleration but no codes. Going to check the spring pressure right now 😀
Hey it's Juan again I'm here with the car I told u about and I don't c any thing that I left disconnected is it possible dat that the electric throttled got dis programs or something with the timing chain cuz I did put the new timing chain tensioner the car also turns off if I press the gas pedal
+Juan Garcia Sorry, this sounds like the kind of thing that is not possible to diagnose further over the Internet. Is it possible your timing is off / chain jumped several teeth? Might need to pull the timing cover and have a look. Other than sensors, I can't think of anything else. I assume you already unplugged/reconnected all the sensors.
Thank you for post such quality content really helps me out
Have my sons car at a speed shop for minis just wondering how long it takes to replace the blow off valve on a 2007
Bud Bullis I've only ever replaced the blowoff spring, which took only a half hour. I'm just guessing and haven't replaced one, but I guess the entire valve could be changed in an hour or two?
Question my 06 Cooper s has been hesitating and stuttering at lower rpms along with an evap leak code. Started off as p0455 large leak. I spent a $1000 having a smoke test done and a bunch of parts replaced that I already knew were no good as well. Such as o2 sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, map sensor, supercharger intake tube (smoke test determined leak was coming from this tube) and some other ignition parts. But my question is that can this bypass valve cause an evap leak? It’s been an issue since I bought the car haven’t been able to locate it yet. My car also went into limp mode on me before the work was done and read p0301 misfire cylinder 1. Could this bypass valve be my main issue?
BPV cannot cause evap leak
Hello, my 2005 Mini S begins withholding power and I received a code of P1688. investigating, I found oil in the rubber on either side of the inter cool. Is that to be expected ? If not, what would you suggest is the issue. The MAP looked absolutely new and the bypass vale had minimal deposits and cleaned up nicely. Thank you-Patrick
Oil in the boots is normal. www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/198843-p1688-code-on-02-r53.html Bypass valve can be clean and still failed. Check spring for proper tension and no roughness. Pull a vacuum on it and see if it holds. Sometimes the diaphragm is torn. Otherwise it could be failing crank pulley usually accompanied by burning rubber smell.
Thank you very much
Hi my car misfires as I floor the car and the bypass valve is really stiff a lot of resistance
Do you think I should try changing the byroads valve, and how can I check if that is culprit
Hoping for ur reply
I have the sometimes yo-yo on acceleration but no codes. 159k miles. I have already replaced coil, plugs, wires, fuel filter. Any other hints to determine if it is indeed the bypass valve going out?
It's generally the bypass valve and even then sometimes doesn't go away. Get the Detroit Tuned one for best luck
Would this issue contribute to low mpg even if you get no codes?
You do a great job with these videos.. Please keep it up! Thank you!
I'm debating changing mine now and I have no sign of faults just a 03 plate as you say weaker spring
Really great, informative diy vid. My fiance drives an '06 Mini S, and although she's not experiencing this same problem, I'm thinking they may be related? Here's what's going on - the car will suddenly just stall out. Doesn't seem to have any loss of power, and generally starts right up, but it is happening more frequently now. Cut out four times today alone. Very low mileage for an '06, (I think it's around 60K). Any chance you would be willing to discuss over the phone?
Dan W That's probably something different. Any check engine codes? Sorry, but I don't have enough free time to discuss car problems with fans/viewers over the phone. Sounds like an electrical problem more than anything else. Loose engine ground, loose battery terminals, weak battery.
***** Thanks for the quick response. Check engine and EML light did come on. Waiting to hear back from dealer service on any codes, (having repairs done elsewhere if I can't work it out. You wouldn't happen to be in the NYC area, would you?). I'll check the terminals, battery integrity and look for a loose ground, but I believe every time it's happened it starts right up again. Of course I can't say for sure if that's the case, since the fiance is the one driving that car 99% of the time.
Dan W For the cost of a dealer diagnostic you can get a decent code reader and pull the codes yourself. Sometimes they are a mystery, sometimes not. WA State.
***** Yeah, it's on the 'to purchase' list, but I had to get some sort of code answer info quickly, as she uses the car daily. I'll post tomorrow whatever I find out. This is what they came back with today -
FOUND SHUT OFF VALVE DEFECTIVECAUSING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND INTAKE
BOOT IS DRY AND CRACKING
I'm GUESSING they're talking about the bypass valve? BTW If you happen to know of any good, independent garages in the NY/NJ area, it would be greatly appreciated.
Question where do the hose on the air duct go to?
Would the bypass valve also cause a slight rough idle... almost like you had a loopy cam? I have no codes stored in the OBD 2 either.
It could but any air leak could also
have you ever heard of tank venting system on a r53 mini cooper s. my reader is telling me the large leak . I have replaced the valve on right front of valve cover , the pump connected to canister on right wheel well. I keep getting this code. could it be the hoses to tank?
Do a smoke test. Check your fuel cap.. I've not diagnosed or repaired a large leak but those might help you track it down.
@@ModMINI , thank you sir for the response. have done the smoke test at pep boys and resulted in no smoke coming from no where . I have replaced every valve I can find or that goes bad. I'm to the point of getting down the gas tank to check it myself since I want it fixed. just don't have a clue on what else it could be. reader says tank venting system but I don't know what else goes bad in the car if I should replace the entire gas tank hose assembly next.
+Mod MINI I bought a 2006 mini cooper S recently, the car has no Check engine light but when i blip the Gas pedal quickly at Idle the rpms go down and then up as if power goes away and then comes back. and the Engine throttle response is very late at lower rpms and It feels very sluggish too, when i first start in 1st the car jerks and then goes. I just changed the Spark Plugs, Air filter and Fuel Filter but that didn't seems to help one bit. Is there a chance that it might be the Bypass valve? If not what possible cause could it be? i did notice the coil pack is rusty if that effects performance.
Bypass valve symptom is generally as I describe in the video description. Bad coil pack or a vacuum leak could also get you symptoms like you describe. All R53 don't have much power at low RPM.
***** Ok well I take back what I said about the tune up, it helped my car become alot smoother even more after the fuel system cleaner and its not as sluggish anymore but the laggy throttle response is there but not as much. The coil pack and wires are good. So I'm gonna check for vacuum leak and check fuel/air ratio on the obd2. Thank you!
I've got the exact same problem at 3k it's like its reclining but no power a dead spot stick thr foot down and off it goes like a scalded cat. I'm getting upgraded one
I’m in a little trouble and I need your help. My 05 Mini Cooper s has no power. I can put my foot on the gas and rev the engine and my car goes very slow. The strange thing is no check engine light. I have no acceleration. I put in an additive for the gas maybe thinking it was a fuel system issue. That did not work. My car works so hard to go nowhere. Can you help?
Hey need some help I have a Mini Cooper base. Hatchback and we put a new timing chain tensioner but we took of the electric throttle and disconnected it from the wires .. After we was done we put everything together but now it turns Gud at first but then the gas pedal doesn't accelerate
+Juan Garcia Did you reconnect the throttle electrical connector? It's easy to forget and car will idle without it.
Will the bypass valve cause the eml light to come on? My eml light comes on often but only at idle. I have to turn the car off and back on to reset it so I can drive at normal power. Any ideas of what else could cause the my eml light and loss of power? Thanks.
+Paul Dobranski It can. Need to know what codes it is throwing to even start diagnosing.
My snorkel is cracked where that long cylinder juts down to the ground. Would that cause my car to go limp?
Laurie Ostapovicz Definitely get that fixed. Any leak in intake air path could cause air mass calculation issues. A leak after the air filter can result in dirty air (and even large objects) getting in to the engine, which could be very bad as well. The intake air tube is before the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor but it may be sensitive to back pressure. I know one time I tried to move my MINI with the air filter removed and it ran very oddly.
thank you. I will definitely order a new one. Where do you order mini parts? i couldn't find an acceptable one on eBay. Or maybe i'm typing in the wrong product description.
Laurie Ostapovicz Check realoem.com to find the part number realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=RE33&mospid=48021&btnr=13_0979&hg=13&fg=20 and then search around online for the best price/shipping.
Hi Mod MINI,
I have been having the dreaded P0130 pending code coming on when the vehicle is cold. I clear the code, and restart after the engine is warm, and I don't get a pending code. After the usual 2 cycles it goes to a hard code. Changed downstream O2 first for bad heater circuit code, then P0130 came on for the upstream. changed the upstream O2 and code continued to come back with no other codes. Have changed plugs, wires, and fuel filter since without being able to kill the code. When engine is started the fuel circuit goes to open loop, then to Open loop fault. After a few miles it goes to regular closed loop operation. I'm starting to loose motivation with this one. Please advise if you have any ideas.
Rich
By the way it is a 2004 MCS.
I do not know what part of the car is the valve pcs of my mini cooper turbo 2009?
Yes sir I connected everything back just how it was before ...I double check I even went back and took everything of again and put it back together i didn't put a new throttle gasket didn't think it need a new one
+Juan Garcia Throttle gasket is reusable. You must have a disconnected connection somewhere. Cam sensor, crank sensor...
thank you for all the great videos, i just purchased my first mini r53 a few days ago. i have a engine light on, code is p2096. any input on how to fix this. once again thanks for all the great videos. i have learned a lot about these cars
Probably unrelated to bypass valve. That's probably a bad O2 sensor. The pre- and post- cat sensors are the same. Buy this one (link below) and try swapping out the precat sensor first. If the problem doesn't go away, swap positions with the rear sensor and try switching all of them around (the new one + the 2 old ones). When the light stays off, you know which one is the bad one.
amzn.to/19A5LgU
Mod MINI
i have a question, i went to see a used mini coopers 2003. while test driving i noticed the tempature gauge goeas to the red then back to the middle. is that a potential serious problem about to happen,
Not normal. Whether or not it is a serious problem I cannot say, it would need to be diagnosed for the root cause.
Question: is it possible to simply replace the spring inside the bypass valve's membrane body? I have an 05 with a loss in power, bad mpg, and the infamous yo-yo effect. Though it's not that bad yet, I know it's on its way out. Thanks.
+Epo Maybe, but you're likely to break the plastic clips. Also, you'd have to get the spring tension exactly right or the BPV will open/close at the wrong time.
+Mod MINI true true, I'll stick with a direct oem replacement. Last thing I need to do is add to the issue. Thanks for the response and advice.
Though my 05 JCW runs ok and doesn't pull any codes, it doesn't seem to really pull hard almost sluggish...I tied off the BPV and did find that it pulled better ...though a bit twichy...( I Had the valve out earlier when I was doing some other engine work and spring and closing seemed pretty good)... being as the BPV isn't all that expensive or hard to change I'm going to go ahead and do it… What has your experience been with Detroit tune valves versus OEM valves?
IslandJCW It would be twitchy with the valve forced closed. That's why the valve is there. :-) I've heard from a pretty well respected performance MINI specialist that it's really not necessary to go with a Detroit Tuned valve. I actually had some BPV flutter in my car at the track when running at high RPM - I could see the air/fuel mixture go rich, and a P1688 code would be thrown. He told me to just get an OEM one, to not bother with Detroit Tuned because it's not worth it.
***** Thanks for the info...I suspected the twitchy behaviour was caused by the forced shut valve...I was leaning towards an OEM unit but thought that maybe the DT unit would add some little pop of boost at lower to mid range....I'm going to stick with an OEM unit!
IslandJCW Just installed my new BPV and had the car out at the track. Ran great.
I just installed a new OEM BPV yesterday as well...
I noticed a difference in midrange throttle responsiveness, no 3k sluggishness and better low rpm torque due to valve closing properly.
Well worth the cost and time to install.
Still curious to try a DT valve to see how the car reacts but being as I live in the Canadian Pacific Northwest, cost of purchase, shipping and duty outweighs my curiosity.
Hello modmini. I have a 2004 pre-facelift r53 with 17% reduction. One week ago had hesitation at low rpm but while during left turns, I’m not sure if it was just me but that is what I noticed. I let the car sit for a week and now it won’t start. I replaced the fuel filter about 4 months ago and the car was fine. I’m not sure how to fully diagnose a bad fuel pump before I throw money at it. Is the OEM not able to keep up with the 17% reduction pulley? Thank you.
Oh, I checked the fuel pump fuse, it was fine. Checked BPV tension and it seemed fine and disconnected TMAP and MAP and tried cranking but nothing. I drove hard through curvy roads with a little over a quarter tank.
Sorry for the paragraphs. I just did the “smack the fuel tank near the driver side rear wheel” trick and the car fired up right away. I guess I will order a new fuel pump?
Sorry for the paragraphs. I just did the “smack the fuel tank near the driver side rear wheel” trick and the car fired up right away. I guess I will order a new fuel pump?
Can we zip tie the bypass valve closed permanently?
hi think of getting a mini I live in the e.u and I do all my own car work as hobbie I cant afford a works or a high valve mini what is there to watch out for ..like the videos .I did here a awlfull lot of tourble with first gen minis
Hello can you help please my mini is not accelerating like it should be sputtering a lot and not giving much power
Thanks for all your great videos, I've restored a few MCS with your info. My question on this video is would a faulty bypass valve also cause the R53 to tick over rough on start up? It feels soft to push compared to my other cars, and it's had a new head build, plugs and coils?
Keep up the good work. Cheers Matt
probably not.
Where would the Egr valve be located for an R50? I've looked everywhere but I can't find anything
Amazingly, the Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINI do not have EGR valves.
I have a Minicooper s r53 2005 and I think its performance is modest, I can hardly hear the sound of the supercharger, so what you showed may be a problem with the bypass valve. With the replacement, did you feel immediate improvement? Thank you very much.
Yes, if that was the problem.
my car has exactly the same problem, but bpv does have some resistance, ill replace it anyways, but if it doenst fix the problem, do you know what else can cause exact same problem? plus my car rev hangs badly, even tho i have single mass flywheel, and throttle response is also dead even tho its flashed
Would need to diagnose car. Look for vacuum leaks.
@@ModMINI thanks for the reply! just checked the oil cap and theres a lot of air coming out of it when u take cap off of oil filler, guessing its a pcv valve
@@THEPRINCEKONSTANTINEA little is normal. Put the cap and dipstick back on and smoke test the vehicle.
My R53 found P1689 .This will clear my problem.Thx.
Unlucky today I check my bypass valve. It work OK. And still found P1689 many time.
What code reader would you recommend for a R53. ? Thanks
Very detailed video. Think I'm going to do it myself now
hey, i have a 2005 mini cooper s. i threw a P1688 code a week ago. i replaced my BPV and harmonic balancer. then a couple days later i had the P1688 come back. then the next day a P1687 code. any idea what the P1687 code could be??
Pretty sure that is throttle body if you've already done bypass valve and crank pulley.
Mod MINI hey thanks for the fast comment back!! im going to try to get another TB. i was thinking that was what it was.
By the way, your videos are very good!! i want to thank you for making these videos! they help alot!!