Inspired me to acquire CBX1000…one day… thanks for the great video. You are influential a lot more than you think. Looking forward to accessing CBX1000 library. Subscribed.
If I missed something you said apologies. This worked for me. Tore em down: Replaced any old piece of rubber to stuff that is modern fuel compatible. Checked the needle valve seats seal, carbs upside down, blew down the fuel feed hose. Lift and release in turn, each carb float while blowing, obviously, if you're red in the face and there's no air escaping, all's good, else swap the needle valves out. Any piece of debris will prevent a good seal. Checked the float heights, set them so the carbs are inclined enough for float tang to 'just' touch, not press on the needle valve plunger. Set the height. Float bowls back. Set the pilot air screws to factory, plus quarter turn richer. Carbs back on the bike. Start and warm up. There are versions of the 6 set of vacuum gauges, Ive used the 4 set, set the inner 4 carbs to draw equally, then .... leaving a gauge on the carb moved by the cables, move the gauges to the outer two and set those. Tweaked the pilot air screws to get the sweetest idle.
Is it possible some carbs are so out of sync, fast, to cause your high idle. At full throttle sync does not matter, only at slower speeds. You will feel it smooth out at slow speeds when synced. I presently have my carbs on the bench and wet tested them today. My problem appears to be to rich. The bike is a 79, box stock. I am the original owner. Yours must have aftermarket needles, as the stock ones are not adjustable. If it was bored out, that would make sense. On the bench, visually sync them. Cover about 1/2 of the last hole in the venturi with the butterfly on all carbs and that will be very close. The sticks will really fine tune that and it will smooth it out and idle nice. I use a vacuum gauge always referencing carb 4. Also stock, there was a little flat spot about 2700 - 3000 rpm. If you ran at that rpm, it would burble. Normal acceleration it was not noticeable. I have struggled with these carbs for years, had other issues that took me a while to find. Still, not happy, but drivable next year. Will rest the FJR.
Thanks for the input 👍 much appreciated. Take a look at the follow-up video. The link is in the description. I had a damaged butterfly holding the #5 carb open. At the end of the 2nd video, I thought it was dialed. It's descent around town, but burbles on the freeway. The stage 3? Dynojet needles still aren't correct. I didn't personally inspect the needles and my engine guy said they seemed a little beat up. I'll get it right, though, and make a 3rd video in the process.
@@CrustyCycle9317 I am just dealing with a stock bike, can't imagine the issues you are having. What was wrong with the butterfly? Just in case, there is an external spring on the adjuster between carbs 1 - 2 and 5 - 6. My question that led me to your video is, when filled where should the actual gas level be? I will watch your next video today.
@@CrustyCycle9317 That is about where I am, about 1/8" below the split. I went 17mm on the float level at the float end, and the manual shows measuring it at the centre line of the jets. It makes a slight difference. I had them cleaned about 10 years ago, bought a gasket kit and put it in. It ran so rich it fouled it up, had to take the head off and de-carbon it. Hand seated the valves and it made every shim to tight!! Figured out a way and grind down the shims by hand to 0.003". Could not figure why it was so rich, bought new floats, but that was not the issue. The issue was air. Paid to have the ultra-sonically cleaned , but the had failed to open the air passage to the secondary emulsion tube. It was completely closed on all 6 carbs!!! Opened them up and put it back together and what a difference. Took it apart last fall after driving it for a few years for a minor oil leak and had to pull the exhaust. Still looks rich but not bad. May insure it again next year. They are so much fun to drive, and the attention from those who know what it is a bonus. To bad we are so far apart.
Thanks for the video man. There isn't much info on those carbs out there... the old fucks who know how to do em, just keep it to themselvs... it's ridiculous. I'll be waiting for the next one.
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Inspired me to acquire CBX1000…one day… thanks for the great video. You are influential a lot more than you think. Looking forward to accessing CBX1000 library. Subscribed.
Thank you. I'll try to keep good videos coming. By the way, those carbs may need to come off one more time. Thanks for subscribing.
If I missed something you said apologies.
This worked for me.
Tore em down:
Replaced any old piece of rubber to stuff that is modern fuel compatible.
Checked the needle valve seats seal, carbs upside down, blew down the fuel feed hose.
Lift and release in turn, each carb float while blowing, obviously, if you're red in the face and there's no air escaping, all's good, else swap the needle valves out. Any piece of debris will prevent a good seal.
Checked the float heights, set them so the carbs are inclined enough for float tang to 'just' touch, not press on the needle valve plunger.
Set the height.
Float bowls back.
Set the pilot air screws to factory, plus quarter turn richer.
Carbs back on the bike.
Start and warm up.
There are versions of the 6 set of vacuum gauges, Ive used the 4 set, set the inner 4 carbs to draw equally, then .... leaving a gauge on the carb moved by the cables, move the gauges to the outer two and set those.
Tweaked the pilot air screws to get the sweetest idle.
Thank you, that's great information 👍
Thank you, and I am following and subscribing all the way from New Zealand
Thanks for subscribing! I'll get the actual synchronizing process in the 3rd video.
such a beautiful bike
Thank you! Still working on it.
Greatest ever made.
Agreed. Absolutely magnificent machines.
I'm curious what kind of power filter you have installed.
They are K&N.
Is it possible some carbs are so out of sync, fast, to cause your high idle. At full throttle sync does not matter, only at slower speeds. You will feel it smooth out at slow speeds when synced. I presently have my carbs on the bench and wet tested them today. My problem appears to be to rich. The bike is a 79, box stock. I am the original owner. Yours must have aftermarket needles, as the stock ones are not adjustable. If it was bored out, that would make sense. On the bench, visually sync them. Cover about 1/2 of the last hole in the venturi with the butterfly on all carbs and that will be very close. The sticks will really fine tune that and it will smooth it out and idle nice. I use a vacuum gauge always referencing carb 4. Also stock, there was a little flat spot about 2700 - 3000 rpm. If you ran at that rpm, it would burble. Normal acceleration it was not noticeable. I have struggled with these carbs for years, had other issues that took me a while to find. Still, not happy, but drivable next year. Will rest the FJR.
Thanks for the input 👍 much appreciated. Take a look at the follow-up video. The link is in the description. I had a damaged butterfly holding the #5 carb open. At the end of the 2nd video, I thought it was dialed. It's descent around town, but burbles on the freeway. The stage 3? Dynojet needles still aren't correct. I didn't personally inspect the needles and my engine guy said they seemed a little beat up. I'll get it right, though, and make a 3rd video in the process.
@@CrustyCycle9317 I am just dealing with a stock bike, can't imagine the issues you are having. What was wrong with the butterfly? Just in case, there is an external spring on the adjuster between carbs 1 - 2 and 5 - 6. My question that led me to your video is, when filled where should the actual gas level be? I will watch your next video today.
@CBX-en9lc Float level, just below the split line, with carbs level. Some guys simulate the mounted carb angle and use a different measurement point.
@@CrustyCycle9317 That is about where I am, about 1/8" below the split. I went 17mm on the float level at the float end, and the manual shows measuring it at the centre line of the jets. It makes a slight difference. I had them cleaned about 10 years ago, bought a gasket kit and put it in. It ran so rich it fouled it up, had to take the head off and de-carbon it. Hand seated the valves and it made every shim to tight!! Figured out a way and grind down the shims by hand to 0.003". Could not figure why it was so rich, bought new floats, but that was not the issue. The issue was air. Paid to have the ultra-sonically cleaned , but the had failed to open the air passage to the secondary emulsion tube. It was completely closed on all 6 carbs!!! Opened them up and put it back together and what a difference. Took it apart last fall after driving it for a few years for a minor oil leak and had to pull the exhaust. Still looks rich but not bad. May insure it again next year. They are so much fun to drive, and the attention from those who know what it is a bonus. To bad we are so far apart.
@CBX-en9lc We're going to get it all correct in the end. Tacoma to Ontario, just a nice day ride, lol.
Thanks for the video man. There isn't much info on those carbs out there... the old fucks who know how to do em, just keep it to themselvs... it's ridiculous.
I'll be waiting for the next one.
That's what I noticed too. There's no descent video on how to sync them. I'm going to fix that (I hope)!
Most likely one of the carb has vacuum issue …
Thanks, yeah I thought they were good, but they're still not right. I'll take them off again next season.