Do keep this in mind. Sometimes an item is not serviceable in the field because correct reassembly requires special jigs or alignment fixtures that were never available outside of the factory. If the choice is try to fix it or throw it away you lose nothing by trying.
Yes that is touching the subject of planned obsolence too. I use many things others gave uup on. An Imac, a water boiler, microwave oven, toaster, an electric piano, Harman kardon speakers, some generic speakers, and all of it only required some basic understanding on why people gave up.
They seem really well sealed, i wonder if its worth the effort....unless you hear grinding. Dynohubs are difficult to gauge for roughness as the magnetic resistance feels like bearing flat spots.
Hey Dan! Amazing video, it really would have helped me if I had watched it before I broke the lead wire while trying to service it :)) However, I'll do the procedure more carefully the next time I try to service my new one :) love from Turkey.
Nice video. Well done. Thank you very much. How does a Shimano dynamo sound when you turn it in order to produce power? Do you know which insulation material Shimano did use?
Excellently demonstrated (and filmed). Thank you very much for the effort. My thinking out loud: those hubs are very well sealed. Plus the front wheel doesn't take much torque, nor load (weight). With the servicing procedure being rather "sensitive" because of that wire, it is not something I'd do as a part of regular annual maintenance. On the other hand, when problems finally occur (as play, or malfunctioning of the electronics), it's usually too late for fixing (even if cones get sourced, by the time play is felt, cups are damaged as well, usually). So my policy for now is: let it run while it runs. Then replace. Shimano apparently did what's up to them to keep the money coming in.
I think your assessment is mostly accurate, but could be modified: when/if you have a problem, just spend a few minutes to open it and see if you can service it before buying one. To me that was the point.
No no no, as long as you have a good visual guide and directions, then work like this is deceptively simple. I've torn down my SRAM H3125 hub a few times now (once for missing a part 🙃) and it's just tedious and a test of basic hand-eye coordination. Don't just let your bike parts die sight unseen! Save yourself buying a new hub and just do this service once every few years on the sealed side. Oh, and remember that you'll have to build a whole new wheel, or pay out the nose for someone else to do it if your hub dies. Don't do it!!!
Nice video Dan. Thanks for shining some light (budumbum….) into this little small area of my world. I’m hoping to find a used/intact or replacement new little power housing. That little plastic bit holding the two tabs that attach to the contacts. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Just taken mine apart to check it as I had a rumbling noise, cones are pitted but I can only find replacement cones for the "serviceable" side. Slightly tricky to repair properly without the parts!
Hi Dan. I've just watched this again as my wife's bike has a Shimano generator hub too. Looking at the disassembly there is some white substance around the washers. Would this be some sort of sealant possibly to keep the wires from getting agitated and avoiding abrasion? I'm very impressed with technical description in the videos. Very clear.
Yeah, I believe it is some kind of insulating or sealing material.I tried to avoid disturbing it as much as possible, but it did get torn up some. I think liquid electric tape might be a worthy substitute although I did not apply any.
Great video. It seems it would be possible to change the bearing without actually removing the stator assembly from the hub casing. Am I missing something?
Thank you for this video! Going by looks at least, my hub will have the same arrangement of parts as yours, even though it is a different model (HB-NX60). Here's hoping that turns out to be correct!
I love your channel, Mr. Burkhart. As one of the few mechanics in NYC willing and able to service gear hubs and dynamo hubs I've done most of the jobs in your videos; some I've done while using your video as a guide. Isn't it more likely that the reason your customer's lights stopped working has something to do with the exposed wires or the connections at the lights? Those parts are so much more fragile and prone to interference than the hub axle, etc.
Thank you so much for your comment. i really appreciate it. It's gratifying to know that my work is helpful to others. As for the diagnosis on why this hub would not power the lights, I only have the word of the owner who shipped it to me as a bare hub. He simply said it was not producing power, but clearly it was, so something else was going on there.
My own hub stopped providing power and I nearly pulled my hair out before I stopped to check for voltage flow from the hub. Lo and behold, a voltmeter showed life from the hub. I just had to clean corrosion off the wires to get things working again. 🤪
Hi Dan, bit of a shot in the dark as this video is very old, but I have broken that little wire... and I don't have the special tool to take the insides out. I tried to solder another piece on, however it has not worked. Is it possible to completely replace that wire? Thank you if you get this!
The wire that comes out of the alternator probably is coated solid copper wire. The coating is for electrical insulation purposes. You should sand down or scrape down the end of that wire off it's insulating coating to expose the bare copper. Then you can solder a new wire to it. THat's the easy part. After that you will have to find a way to insulate that soldered part with an insulating material that is thin enough to be able to refit that repaired wire in he shallow groove on the axle so you won't get an electrical short when screwing the bearing cone in place again. The bearing cone needs to fit over your repaired wire without destroying the new insualtion to avoid an electrical short. It is doable, but a pain in the behind. Good luck !
@@Paul58069 Thank you very much for your reply Paul. I didn't know about the coating on the wire, I did sand it - but not becuase I knew about the coating! I did manage to get the little wire soldiered evenually, and had to Dremmel the axle slightly for my additional instulation. The break was right on the spot that has to bend 90 degrees to pass through the cut out nut. It does work ok, thankfully, but i have a torch on the handlebars just in case. Some guys at work are going to make me a tool to get the hub out. Then I can re do the job properly - not at the bend! Thanks again :)
If you are referring to the rolling resistance, yes that is normal. It will feel notchy as you rotate it by hand. This is the magnets on the inner shell being attracted to the armature.
Excellent video. I think Shimano say it’s not serviceable because they don’t want to be inundated with emails from customers who’ve broken the output wire. But if you’re careful it’s just a cup and cone hub with some extra gubbins in the way.
@@eddieallen6401 I did encountered that critical wire part with success AFTER I was able to practice on a sacrificial dynamo hub that was rust damaged. Thanks for your reply and it is still a highly valuable feedback for lifelong Shimano enthusiasts.
Great video showing how you trouble shoot these hubs. Thanks for your efforts and showing how to service the "unservicable" 👍🏼
Do keep this in mind. Sometimes an item is not serviceable in the field because correct reassembly requires special jigs or alignment fixtures that were never available outside of the factory. If the choice is try to fix it or throw it away you lose nothing by trying.
Yes that is touching the subject of planned obsolence too. I use many things others gave uup on. An Imac, a water boiler, microwave oven, toaster, an electric piano, Harman kardon speakers, some generic speakers, and all of it only required some basic understanding on why people gave up.
Superb Video Dan !!!! I've done approx 12,000 miles on my DH-3N30 ... will probably service it now you have showed how ...
They seem really well sealed, i wonder if its worth the effort....unless you hear grinding. Dynohubs are difficult to gauge for roughness as the magnetic resistance feels like bearing flat spots.
Hey Dan! Amazing video, it really would have helped me if I had watched it before I broke the lead wire while trying to service it :)) However, I'll do the procedure more carefully the next time I try to service my new one :) love from Turkey.
Nice video. Well done. Thank you very much.
How does a Shimano dynamo sound when you turn it in order to produce power? Do you know which insulation material Shimano did use?
Excellently demonstrated (and filmed). Thank you very much for the effort.
My thinking out loud: those hubs are very well sealed. Plus the front wheel doesn't take much torque, nor load (weight). With the servicing procedure being rather "sensitive" because of that wire, it is not something I'd do as a part of regular annual maintenance.
On the other hand, when problems finally occur (as play, or malfunctioning of the electronics), it's usually too late for fixing (even if cones get sourced, by the time play is felt, cups are damaged as well, usually).
So my policy for now is: let it run while it runs. Then replace. Shimano apparently did what's up to them to keep the money coming in.
I think your assessment is mostly accurate, but could be modified: when/if you have a problem, just spend a few minutes to open it and see if you can service it before buying one. To me that was the point.
@@danielashleybaker Agreed.
No no no, as long as you have a good visual guide and directions, then work like this is deceptively simple. I've torn down my SRAM H3125 hub a few times now (once for missing a part 🙃) and it's just tedious and a test of basic hand-eye coordination. Don't just let your bike parts die sight unseen! Save yourself buying a new hub and just do this service once every few years on the sealed side. Oh, and remember that you'll have to build a whole new wheel, or pay out the nose for someone else to do it if your hub dies.
Don't do it!!!
Super movie. After watching, I decided to spin and clean my dahon hub. Thank you.!!!!!!!!
Nice video Dan. Thanks for shining some light (budumbum….) into this little small area of my world. I’m hoping to find a used/intact or replacement new little power housing. That little plastic bit holding the two tabs that attach to the contacts. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Just taken mine apart to check it as I had a rumbling noise, cones are pitted but I can only find replacement cones for the "serviceable" side. Slightly tricky to repair properly without the parts!
Great video Dan. I'll get on it soon.
Excellent quality video. Thank you.
Youre video helps me a lot...thanks man
thank you this helps me a lot ..please let me see also the video on how you disassemble it from the wheel?
Hi Dan. I've just watched this again as my wife's bike has a Shimano generator hub too. Looking at the disassembly there is some white substance around the washers. Would this be some sort of sealant possibly to keep the wires from getting agitated and avoiding abrasion?
I'm very impressed with technical description in the videos. Very clear.
Yeah, I believe it is some kind of insulating or sealing material.I tried to avoid disturbing it as much as possible, but it did get torn up some. I think liquid electric tape might be a worthy substitute although I did not apply any.
Very nice guide i have dh-2n30 thanks for guidens, there is no video of hub dynamo on UA-cam, my english is very poor. Thanks bro.
Great video. It seems it would be possible to change the bearing without actually removing the stator assembly from the hub casing. Am I missing something?
Thank you for this video! Going by looks at least, my hub will have the same arrangement of parts as yours, even though it is a different model (HB-NX60). Here's hoping that turns out to be correct!
Interesting video. Thanks!
I love your channel, Mr. Burkhart. As one of the few mechanics in NYC willing and able to service gear hubs and dynamo hubs I've done most of the jobs in your videos; some I've done while using your video as a guide.
Isn't it more likely that the reason your customer's lights stopped working has something to do with the exposed wires or the connections at the lights? Those parts are so much more fragile and prone to interference than the hub axle, etc.
Thank you so much for your comment. i really appreciate it. It's gratifying to know that my work is helpful to others.
As for the diagnosis on why this hub would not power the lights, I only have the word of the owner who shipped it to me as a bare hub. He simply said it was not producing power, but clearly it was, so something else was going on there.
My own hub stopped providing power and I nearly pulled my hair out before I stopped to check for voltage flow from the hub. Lo and behold, a voltmeter showed life from the hub. I just had to clean corrosion off the wires to get things working again. 🤪
Muchas gracis por la traduccion al español, ya me suscribi saludos desde Peru 😊
Hey dan, I was wondering how I can get in contact with you to hopefully help me save my dynamo hub.
Great video! Thanks!!
I was taking mine apart today and afterwards It was super tight/difficult to turn, so I will have to do it again. Any ideas?
Well the edit function doesn't work. It's nice to know it doesn't have to come apart. Just a quick and dirty bearing service. :-)
Is shat teflon tape on the axle?
what is the model number DH 2N??
Hi Dan, bit of a shot in the dark as this video is very old, but I have broken that little wire... and I don't have the special tool to take the insides out. I tried to solder another piece on, however it has not worked. Is it possible to completely replace that wire? Thank you if you get this!
The wire that comes out of the alternator probably is coated solid copper wire. The coating is for electrical insulation purposes. You should sand down or scrape down the end of that wire off it's insulating coating to expose the bare copper. Then you can solder a new wire to it. THat's the easy part. After that you will have to find a way to insulate that soldered part with an insulating material that is thin enough to be able to refit that repaired wire in he shallow groove on the axle so you won't get an electrical short when screwing the bearing cone in place again. The bearing cone needs to fit over your repaired wire without destroying the new insualtion to avoid an electrical short. It is doable, but a pain in the behind. Good luck !
@@Paul58069 Thank you very much for your reply Paul. I didn't know about the coating on the wire, I did sand it - but not becuase I knew about the coating! I did manage to get the little wire soldiered evenually, and had to Dremmel the axle slightly for my additional instulation. The break was right on the spot that has to bend 90 degrees to pass through the cut out nut. It does work ok, thankfully, but i have a torch on the handlebars just in case. Some guys at work are going to make me a tool to get the hub out. Then I can re do the job properly - not at the bend! Thanks again :)
What is that clear grease you are using? Silicone grease?
It's Pedro's synthetic grease. Good stuff.
good job
can you please give a short review of the HERRMANS H-ONE light ?
I just order one of amazon still in the mail ..
That's a great idea, thanks. I'm using the H-ONE on two bikes, and I like them a lot. I'll try to get that review done in the coming week.
Thank you. I have a super nova pro German lighting system (high price and overrated)Im curious how it will do over super nova and its beam pattern.
I broke that 5 sided nut because i didnt see it had a tongue, if only i watched this before, damn😂
thank u
Brilliant
Tnx
Thanks sir
Is it really normal for the dynohub ito be kind of tight when turned?
yes
Sir , its dynamo hub , not dino 🦕 hub
Где можно купить гайку-конус М11?
I never work in shimano dynamo hub and making produk 2R35 that is a 3R30 product
Not enough
Is it really normal for the dynohub ito be kind of tight when turned?
If you are referring to the rolling resistance, yes that is normal. It will feel notchy as you rotate it by hand. This is the magnets on the inner shell being attracted to the armature.
Dan Burkhart Notchy indeed is the way I would describe it. Happy to know its normal. Many many thanks.
Excellent video. I think Shimano say it’s not serviceable because they don’t want to be inundated with emails from customers who’ve broken the output wire. But if you’re careful it’s just a cup and cone hub with some extra gubbins in the way.
@@eddieallen6401 I did encountered that critical wire part with success AFTER I was able to practice on a sacrificial dynamo hub that was rust damaged. Thanks for your reply and it is still a highly valuable feedback for lifelong Shimano enthusiasts.