Thank-you so much Dima...I have been struggling to get my Spirit GT set up and running for several days and I came across this video today. I have everything ship shape now. Thank-you for all you do for the hobby.
This video is very informative and I will for sure use the templates you provided. Explanation of all the parameters is awesome and it helps me understand how each parameter applies to the performance you are looking for. Looking forward to further videos on governor setup etc.
At around 8:57min, you mentioned the value for the 6° cyclic calibration should ideally be over "90". For the viewers, the ideal value range is between "90" and "150" (as stated on program) for optimal control loop performance. The helicopter will fly and not fall off the sky if the value is outside this ideal range, but performance could be further improved. This is similar to setting the 8° cyclic calibration on VBar or getting the blue light on BeastX. This is the value that determines optimal mechanical geometry. This mechanical geometry is determined by the cyclic servo arm hole distance, the swashplate ball link stud lengths, and the blade grip arm ball distance from the hub. Since the blade grip arms ball distance and swashplate ball distances are "fixed" in most (but not all) helicopters, the main way to alter the head geometry and this 6° value is by using an optimal cyclic servo arm hole distance.
Yes the recommended values are 90-150 however I have never seen a heli where the value got close to 150 when using the recommended hole spacing from the manufacturer.
Welp I have tried 3 times now on Raw 420 and now three set of blades. As soon as I go to lift off it tips way forward and blades scrape and that’s it. I hook up the IKON 2 again and it flies outstanding. 3 times complete redoing setup. What gives!
@@REVOS5 From the picture i have 180 with wires front, i set this thing up so slowly and still it does it. it spools up fine and if i even barely touch cyclic while lifting off it dips hard forward or right and scrape! i do select goblin 420 in the setup and i noticed you leave that default. Also i initialized it on a picnic table and then carried it to spot to take off, could this be. I have Stabilization Acro setup but confirmed it was not engaged when spooling up. So fruatrating when i put ikon2 back on it lifts fine and hovers like a champ. Thanks for any help.
At 10:11min, you go over the "Cyclic Ring". I generally increase this value as much as possible to allow for full cyclic stick deflection at high and low collective stick WITHOUT mechanical binding. I am not aware of any ill effect from having this value as high as possible assuming no mechanical binding. I frankly do not tune this value to any particular ° deflection with a pitch gauge; I just dial it up as high as possible without mechanical binding.
In my experience, having the value too high may induce weird head behavior, and will make the rescue very aggressive as it will use all available cyclic pitch
Hi Dima, thanks for the Video, I could setup my Spirit GT perfectly with it. I fly an Align 470L with a Spektum NX transmitter. ID1/ID2/ID3 70/75/80% throttle. Gyro Multiplier in the GT is 1.1. In the Transmitter I set values 36/33/31 for Gyro. It flies great, but I'm wondering if the values aren't generally too low. Piro Consistency is set to 170 Would appreciate your feedback for further tuning.
You mention you alway do your blade or head angle measuring on the blade over the boom. I assumed and have always done mine with the blade to the front. Is there a difference? Does it matter? Have I been doing it wrong all these years?
I had the first run of spirit pro. It felt good except the tail. The tail I could never get crisp with hard snappy stops no matter what I did. IVe been away from helis and coming back with a puima. IM thinking of getting the spirit gt with bluetooth wireless setup. How does the futaba 16iz super jive with the spirit?
You mentioned at around 1:18min that you purchased a roll of tape. I assume the tape is one of the several Very High Bond (VHB) tapes 3M makes, but 3M VHB tapes come in several variations and several thickness within those variations. What is the exact tape model number?
At 18:52, you discuss the Pirouette Consistency parameter. I understand why I want to increase this parameter, but what is unclear to me is how do I know when this parameter is too high and I need to decrease this number. What is the "weird tail behavior" I would experience if this value is too high?
I always start with a base value of 190, then max out my tail gain, then start upping the pirouette consistency by a value of 5 until the tail piro rate is consistent on both sides, and the tail doesn't whip during transitions. If the value is too high you may get oscillations. I do not max out this parameter but put it as high as it is necessary.
At around 13:17min, you discuss the tail gain. I never understood the wisdom for Spirit choosing to have two separate tail gains; "Rudder Gain" and "Rudder Common Gain". This is in my opinion unnecessarily confusing for newcomers to Spirit. The "Rudder Gain" uses a standard 0% to 100% scale (actually -100% to +100% scale, but best to keep 0-100% for this exercise) and the "Rudder Common Gain" uses a 1.00x to 1.50x scale. The important thing to understand is that the "Rudder Common Gain" is simply a multiplier for the "Rudder Gain". Since the "Rudder Gain" has a maximum value of 100% and the "Rudder Common Gain" has a maximum value of 1.50x, this means that maximum rudder gain is 100% x 1.50 = 150%. So the tail gain is effectively a 0% to 150% scale. A Rudder Gain of 90% combined with a Rudder Common Gain of 1.00x yields the same result as a Rudder Gain of 60% combined with a Rudder Common Gain of 1.50x.
Different radios transmit gain differently. 1 point on radio a could be 1.5points on another radio. With precision you can really nail down the gain where you can push it and it won't start wagging on overspeeds. I also have come to believe that between 1x and 1.5x, the increase is not linear, but more exponential-like.
@@REVOS5 I have corresponded with Tomas on this a few times. It is possible I may have misunderstood him, but as I best understood him, the "Rudder Common Gain" is a linear multiplier of the "Rudder Gain". I can't find all my correspondence with him over the years, but I believe he mentioned in the past something similar to what you said about different radios, where many radios only let you adjust the gain up to 100%, so the "Rudder Common Gain" give you the ability to go even higher.
At around 5:11min you mentioned RUDD port, and specifically mention not to connect the tail servo to this port (correct port is CH4). Do we know why Spirit chose to name this port RUDD instead of naming it something else like AUX#? Labeling this port RUDD but not intending to use this port to connect a tail servo seems like it is time to consider renaming this port.
For a PWM type reciever the rudder goes in this channel. Most people don't use this kind/of setup. In that setup the signa wire of the cyclic servos go into of the ail/ele/pit port
I am new here and have a question, I made my first flight today, in stabilisation modus normal and GPS mode (position hold), when I steer right or left and release the stick, it goes right or left for a very long time before returning to horizontal mode. could it be because I still have a test cross under the heli, ? Normally it should react immediately, but it takes a very long time, as if I still steer to the right or left. Can I speed up the reaction time so that it reacts faster when I let go of the stick.in normal mode it flies perfectly ! the moment I steer to the right I have to steer so hard to the left to correct Is it possible that the horizontal gain is too low in the geolink setting ( positionhold)? I set it a bit lower... first 75%, then 90%, but maybe it should stay at 100% or even higher ? Align T-rex 650. has anyone an answer ?
Thank-you so much Dima...I have been struggling to get my Spirit GT set up and running for several days and I came across this video today. I have everything ship shape now. Thank-you for all you do for the hobby.
Very informative and easy to follow. Looking forward to more great tutorials from Dima Vinar!
This video is very informative and I will for sure use the templates you provided. Explanation of all the parameters is awesome and it helps me understand how each parameter applies to the performance you are looking for. Looking forward to further videos on governor setup etc.
Tank You Dima ..very informative video
At around 8:57min, you mentioned the value for the 6° cyclic calibration should ideally be over "90". For the viewers, the ideal value range is between "90" and "150" (as stated on program) for optimal control loop performance. The helicopter will fly and not fall off the sky if the value is outside this ideal range, but performance could be further improved. This is similar to setting the 8° cyclic calibration on VBar or getting the blue light on BeastX. This is the value that determines optimal mechanical geometry. This mechanical geometry is determined by the cyclic servo arm hole distance, the swashplate ball link stud lengths, and the blade grip arm ball distance from the hub. Since the blade grip arms ball distance and swashplate ball distances are "fixed" in most (but not all) helicopters, the main way to alter the head geometry and this 6° value is by using an optimal cyclic servo arm hole distance.
Yes the recommended values are 90-150 however I have never seen a heli where the value got close to 150 when using the recommended hole spacing from the manufacturer.
Super job sir. If possible maybe you could do a short video on the spirit gps geolink setup. TIA
thanks was very helpful 💪💪💪
Welp I have tried 3 times now on Raw 420 and now three set of blades. As soon as I go to lift off it tips way forward and blades scrape and that’s it. I hook up the IKON 2 again and it flies outstanding. 3 times complete redoing setup. What gives!
Oh spirit GT 3.6 software
Hi it sounds like you have selected and incorrect gyro orientation. I will reach out to help
Dima
@@REVOS5 From the picture i have 180 with wires front, i set this thing up so slowly and still it does it. it spools up fine and if i even barely touch cyclic while lifting off it dips hard forward or right and scrape! i do select goblin 420 in the setup and i noticed you leave that default. Also i initialized it on a picnic table and then carried it to spot to take off, could this be. I have Stabilization Acro setup but confirmed it was not engaged when spooling up. So fruatrating when i put ikon2 back on it lifts fine and hovers like a champ. Thanks for any help.
At 10:11min, you go over the "Cyclic Ring". I generally increase this value as much as possible to allow for full cyclic stick deflection at high and low collective stick WITHOUT mechanical binding. I am not aware of any ill effect from having this value as high as possible assuming no mechanical binding. I frankly do not tune this value to any particular ° deflection with a pitch gauge; I just dial it up as high as possible without mechanical binding.
In my experience, having the value too high may induce weird head behavior, and will make the rescue very aggressive as it will use all available cyclic pitch
This was very helpful
Great job! Video helped a lot thank you.
This was great. Super helpful.
For the most locked in flight experience on a 550 what’s better the spirit pro or the spirit 2? And what’s the difference between them?
Hi Dima, thanks for the Video, I could setup my Spirit GT perfectly with it. I fly an Align 470L with a Spektum NX transmitter. ID1/ID2/ID3 70/75/80% throttle. Gyro Multiplier in the GT is 1.1. In the Transmitter I set values 36/33/31 for Gyro. It flies great, but I'm wondering if the values aren't generally too low. Piro Consistency is set to 170 Would appreciate your feedback for further tuning.
When using the ESC governor, do we need to make any changes in the governor/throttle settings tab? Such as frequency and throttle range.
is there similar or a version of mission planner / Qgroundcontrol?
You mention you alway do your blade or head angle measuring on the blade over the boom. I assumed and have always done mine with the blade to the front. Is there a difference? Does it matter? Have I been doing it wrong all these years?
I had the first run of spirit pro. It felt good except the tail. The tail I could never get crisp with hard snappy stops no matter what I did. IVe been away from helis and coming back with a puima. IM thinking of getting the spirit gt with bluetooth wireless setup. How does the futaba 16iz super jive with the spirit?
Thanks for you video. And video about µSpirit?
Дима спасибо, узнал много чего нового, нужно попробовать подстроить комету, очень слабо рулиться
You mentioned at around 1:18min that you purchased a roll of tape. I assume the tape is one of the several Very High Bond (VHB) tapes 3M makes, but 3M VHB tapes come in several variations and several thickness within those variations. What is the exact tape model number?
I'm not sure about variations (in terms of material) only width. I have the 1" 1mm thick roll
At 18:52, you discuss the Pirouette Consistency parameter. I understand why I want to increase this parameter, but what is unclear to me is how do I know when this parameter is too high and I need to decrease this number. What is the "weird tail behavior" I would experience if this value is too high?
I always start with a base value of 190, then max out my tail gain, then start upping the pirouette consistency by a value of 5 until the tail piro rate is consistent on both sides, and the tail doesn't whip during transitions. If the value is too high you may get oscillations.
I do not max out this parameter but put it as high as it is necessary.
At around 13:17min, you discuss the tail gain. I never understood the wisdom for Spirit choosing to have two separate tail gains; "Rudder Gain" and "Rudder Common Gain". This is in my opinion unnecessarily confusing for newcomers to Spirit. The "Rudder Gain" uses a standard 0% to 100% scale (actually -100% to +100% scale, but best to keep 0-100% for this exercise) and the "Rudder Common Gain" uses a 1.00x to 1.50x scale. The important thing to understand is that the "Rudder Common Gain" is simply a multiplier for the "Rudder Gain". Since the "Rudder Gain" has a maximum value of 100% and the "Rudder Common Gain" has a maximum value of 1.50x, this means that maximum rudder gain is 100% x 1.50 = 150%. So the tail gain is effectively a 0% to 150% scale. A Rudder Gain of 90% combined with a Rudder Common Gain of 1.00x yields the same result as a Rudder Gain of 60% combined with a Rudder Common Gain of 1.50x.
Different radios transmit gain differently. 1 point on radio a could be 1.5points on another radio.
With precision you can really nail down the gain where you can push it and it won't start wagging on overspeeds.
I also have come to believe that between 1x and 1.5x, the increase is not linear, but more exponential-like.
@@REVOS5 I have corresponded with Tomas on this a few times. It is possible I may have misunderstood him, but as I best understood him, the "Rudder Common Gain" is a linear multiplier of the "Rudder Gain". I can't find all my correspondence with him over the years, but I believe he mentioned in the past something similar to what you said about different radios, where many radios only let you adjust the gain up to 100%, so the "Rudder Common Gain" give you the ability to go even higher.
At around 5:11min you mentioned RUDD port, and specifically mention not to connect the tail servo to this port (correct port is CH4). Do we know why Spirit chose to name this port RUDD instead of naming it something else like AUX#? Labeling this port RUDD but not intending to use this port to connect a tail servo seems like it is time to consider renaming this port.
For a PWM type reciever the rudder goes in this channel. Most people don't use this kind/of setup. In that setup the signa wire of the cyclic servos go into of the ail/ele/pit port
I am new here and have a question, I made my first flight today, in stabilisation modus normal and GPS mode (position hold), when I steer right or left and release the stick, it goes right or left for a very long time before returning to horizontal mode. could it be because I still have a test cross under the heli, ? Normally it should react immediately, but it takes a very long time, as if I still steer to the right or left. Can I speed up the reaction time so that it reacts faster when I let go of the stick.in normal mode it flies perfectly !
the moment I steer to the right I have to steer so hard to the left to correct
Is it possible that the horizontal gain is too low in the geolink setting ( positionhold)? I set it a bit lower... first 75%, then 90%, but maybe it should stay at 100% or even higher ?
Align T-rex 650.
has anyone an answer ?
I would join our heli addiction facebook group and ask there.
now login
Why the hell is the wave not available yet?
Spirit is working on it! It will come in the New Year.
I am eager to have the WAVE/W1 in my hands as well. No choice but to be patient.