I learned more about Arduino programming from this video in 40 minutes, then I did in almost 1 semester of my college classes that teaches us to work with the Arduino Uno.
I really like watching your videos. You explain the project in a way that I can understand. Most tutorials fly through the steps that some of the information is missing, or glossed over. That is why I appreciate your style of teaching.
Excellent timing! Just got into this thing and wondered how the heck the speedometer things work, the Chinese instructions aren't much help and you are a hero doing this series in your calm and structured way, much appreciated!
Glad that my timing worked out so well for you, let me know if you have any additional questions. The stuff we can get now from China is of incredible value but it does tend to lack a lot of useful instructions, which Is one of the reasons I made the video. Happy to hear you found it useful.
I’m starting with arduino. Still don’t know how to program it. Thank you for such a great explanation. To me is the best video I have seen. Keep up with it
Just a few short comments. First, please note that 25.4 cm is NOT "about a foot." It actually is 10 inches. Second, while I enjoyed your video, as I always do, I came here looking for a way to control SPEED of two motors so they track accurately together. After all, the encoder disk is referred to as a "speed sensor". The motors you used, quite visibly, do NOT both turn at the same rpm, as the car drifted to one side when it moved. That was also obvious during your first demonstration showing rpm on the Serial Monitor. The two numbers were not in sync. If you do not have a video that addresses this issue, please consider making one. Thank you for your time and efforts producing these videos. I enjoy them and have learned a lot from you. Keep it up. Finally, to those who comment on your (and others') videos with lines like "I have a project due Monday, how can I do..." These drive me mad, as it seems they want YOU to do the work and let tham take credit for it to get their diploma/degree. Instead, I recommend those people actually invest in LEARNING something, instead of poaching others' work. Grrrr...
Hi Tim, Have you heard of PID control? Theres a video on MATLAB that allows you to use this output speed to determine how to adjust it. Also, about a foot is close enough to 10 inches. I think he rounded it.
Just a little note. Any variable that will be changed by interrupts should be defined as "volatile". So, counter1 and counter2 should be defined as volatile.
I am teaching myself Arduino and to a smaller extent robotics. I have followed your excellent tutorials about the robot car and every detail is clearly explained and easy to follow. The instructions on Interrupts (and the link to Nick Gammon) made my project jump ahead in leaps and bounds. I did find that the last code would not run until I put a few pinMode(??, OUTPUT) instructions in the setup to define the Arduino to L298N driver pins. Once they were set, away we went. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to your continued additions to the car.
Great video. Your > is "greater than" not less than... You said it correctly towards the end, but it was confusing when you said it incorrectly while explaining the logic of your functions. Excellent demonstration though on the use of optical sensors, comparators and interrupts. Great stuff!
You should make a video on building a drone with a camera attached. Just a thought! You just explain things so well it would make things so much easier for my brain to crunch on.
hi and thank you for this work, it's a great start for me. Some improvements I did in the move routines code: 1. if you use "II" instead "&&" in "while", then the movement finish when both motors end at the same number of steps. 2. instead of "steps > counter_A" I use "counter_B >= counter_A" and instead of "steps > counter_B" i use "counter_A >= counter_B".. in this case each motor waits the other to complete same number of steps, so the movement is straight.
I'm new to the group and I must say this is great. I'm learning so much and having thought provoking ideas as well. Thank you for these great videos DroneBot Workshop
Excellent instructional video! Your videos are clear, easy to understand, and to the point. Thank you for all the effort and for sharing your knowledge.
This is sooo crystal clear. I code more on Python instead. Go through Pyserial to response each other between Arduino IDE and Python. very much like this episode.
Simply Superb .... No words . .. This is the best tutorial video I have ever seen in my life in youtube yet. And your lab, its awsome. Wish I could work with you. You have explained everything in such a way that even a beginner will understand it. I am also building a Robo car with same chasis but controller and functionalties will be different. Just came here while searching the working of speed encoders. I got what I need. I am from India and wish I could meet you in person ever and visit your lab. Keep going sir ...
A big thank you for a nice and informative tutorial. I was pondering whether to start to learn Arduino and found your channel after a short search. Very interesting - now I'm hooked!
Thanks for the wonderful video. I am dding these comments *again* even though you have replied to similar comments. But I was looking for some *errata* in the text or in the video about that. After 3 years, it will take some digging to get to those comments, hence to help the late comers like me. Advance apologies. 39:00 - Adding 0.5 to the float value and casting to (int) will automatically do a upward rounding. 44:40 - 25.4 cm is 10 inches, not 1 foot. One foot is 2.54 x 12 = 30.48 cm
Brilliant Demo, with excellent explanations. The only suggestion would be (at 33:37) show the negative from the 9 volts goes to the outside (chassis) of the 2.1 mm power socket (centre is positive). I am jealous of how neat, tidy and well laid out your workshop appears.
Good eye John, I should have spotted that connection error but didn't until I read your comment. Hopefully most users will just use a 9-volt to 2.1mm connector and won't reverse the polarity. Thanks for pointing that out!
Say hi to Brazil! I still do not speak your language very well, but I'm studying! Thank you for the explanation. I searched for something very much, but without much success, I had to appeal and look in another language ... Thank you! Nós amamos vocês!
Hi to Brazil from Canada Marcos! You do much better in English than I ever would in Portuguese. I'm glad you were able to understand enough to make it useful for you.
My remark : if you hope to get your car running perfectly forward and make perfect 90 degree turns with this setup, dont get your hopes up. The quality of those plastic gearboxes is, with my experience, just too low to achieve that goal. The problem is the relation PWM to speed is not linear and the motors dont break free at the same moment. So you have motor 1 already started while motor 2 is still stalling, leading it to make a turn. I have tried to compensate for these shortcomings in many many ways, but none seem to work in a satisfying way. Things i have tried : determining the breakfreepoint, linearise motor speed, use just one fixed speed and try to determine best PWM setting to obtain this, start with a short boost of 200/55PWM to break free and lower to desired speed after, adapt the motor speed while running forward. (if the difference in the counts is too great, make the faster motor slow down). I tried switching out gearboxes, i have many of those here. All of it didn't lead me to the stable predictable behavior i was looking for.... I am going to switch to stepper motors for my requirement and/or do some tests with metal gearboxes later, i have hunch the main culprit are those plastic gearboxes, the tolerances on those just are not high enough for stable performance. PS.: if you use the change interrupt instead of the rising one you can double your resolution at no cost
Another way I found to make it go straight is using a compass and following a heading , so if something interferes with the robot it wil autocorrect and using encoders too he can know the distance .
Excellent video, very easy to follow. Looking forward to the radio control video because that’s where I’m currently at with my own arduino robot project. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Excellent tutorial!!! Well done. I'm really enjoying your videos, pure information without the drama other guys trow out. I did a couple of projects but I used 6 cell holder for rechargeable batteries for 7.2V for the arduino and 8 cell for the H bridge. Keep them coming mate!! Regards
I just watched this video and went ahead to download more. I'm planning to build something big with this as soon as Corona virus is over and shipping resumes. Thank you so much. I would love if you can put me through whenever I get hooked up on the way.
Thank you very much. Robotics is fascinating and provides a vehicle for learning lots of different processes.I plan to automate my greenhouse to some extent and include remote monitoring of the parameters.
I was thinking at the end when you demonstrate the control of 1 step. How much would’ve the wheel actually turn after the power’s being cut and how do we measure it and encounter the accuracy problem (if there’s any)?
Thank you for the very good videos you make, they are very clear, very good work. I have a question, could you do a video that show an example of PID controller maybe with this kit? It could be very interesting to make a speed and another with a position controller. Thank you very much
Really nice video! Having bought a similar chassis last month, I made a Mobile controlled robot car using a bluetooth HC-05 module, but I kept wondering what to do about those speed encoders to control the distance they travel or speed of the motors. Well, thanks to you, now I know. The explanation about the Interrupts was exceptionally good and will help me in building some more ambitious projects. I will surely check out your website as well.
Hi, I have some questions about the power supply. Could you power both the Arduino and the L298N off the 9V? My chassis is much smaller, so I am trying to reduce space. Also, can't you power one of the two boards off the 5V supply of the other? Is there some risk of over-currenting if too many sensors are connected to the 5V supply on the Arduino? Thanks!
Actually, 25.4 cm is 10 inches (1" = 25.4 mm). A foot is about 30cm. Simplest way to get a rounded value is to add 0.5 before doing the truncate (or cast). (or use a lib function which does that'I suppose)
Could you pls explain about L298 Dual H-bridge motor controller: does it receive only 1 PWM signal at the same time to control motors in propotion, or can it receive two independant PWM signals from Arduino two control MotorA &MotorB output independantly?
I love watching your content. Thank you so much. I was looking on Amazon for the chassis and there are a few. Any reason why you chose a 2 wheeled over the 4 wheeled one? I'm looking forward to ordering the parts and making stuff.
Absolutely fantastic instruction video. Very clear, to the point, with no unnecessary baloney. I'm definitely a fan. I'll be building one of these robots via these instructions to be sure. I eventually hope to build a far larger robot using the same basic principles. But building this little one to gain the experience is definitely the way to go. Thank you very much for making these video courses.
What a neat Workshop , unlike the mess that I have in here, HOW do you manage it , OR you will be messy after the presentation is done, Or you have a an assistant .need a tutorial for being organised .
Hello. Thank you very much for giving this really informational and nice tutorial. I had a question regarding the code at 19:40 of your video. There is a TimerOne Library and I installed it from Paul Stoffregen's GitHub, but when I uploaded and tried running the code, I got Compilation Errors for 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'detachInterrupt', 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'aatachInterrupt', and 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'initialize'. The lines are in Void Setup (Second Line and Last Line) and Void ISR_Timerone (First Line and Last Line). My code is a direct copy of yours, so can you reach out to me as to why this didn't work on my side?
Can we show a sample wiring for 24V power supply to drive the 2 24V DC motors, assuming 9V power supply from battery to power Arduino to include a breadboard. in short a circuit connection using L298n Motor Driver, Arduino board, Breadboard.
I have a car project for something like this. I'm new to Arduinos etc. I would like to make a automobile trip computer. I would need to process two hall effect fuel flow meters and either a square wave speedometer cable generator or incorporate GPS module. Need to display Distance, Instant MPG, Average MPG, Speed. To bench simulate the sensors I was thinking of using 3 of these motors individually controlled with hall effect wheels. I know one L298 with drive two motors. How many motors will one UNO drive? Can I individually control 3 motors? This all for the main project of an automotive tripmeter. Or is there some sort of simulated signal function should use in the software?
Thanks for the video... I've built a cart using the same electronic components but I can't get the cart to move straight in either the forward or the reverse direction, and the distance that the cart moves is far less than the distance I put in the program. I've checked the logic over and over and it seems to be OK . I have the sneaky suspicion that the the HC-20K opto encoder is actually OVER counting steps! I checked my code by putting serial prints in strategic places and the code correctly calculates the correct number of steps for a given distance and the routines do start and stop the motors until the correct step count is reachedHence my suspicion that the speed sensors are reporting more steps than what have actually occured. To give you an idea, my wheel diameters are 66.2 mm - so the circumference is 3.14156 x 66.2 = 208 mm . When I input 208mm the subroutine correctly calculates that 20 steps are needed and the motors are turned until the ISRs report that the step counts reached 20 steps, but one wheel turns ~290 degress while the other turns only ~180 degrees. I am guessing that the interrupt pins are seeing a noisy signal and that some of that noise is triggering the ISR. As I am writing this, I am also thinking that I am running both the arduino and the motors using the same battery... perhaps that may be the source of the noisy signal on the ISR pins? I want to run on a single 9 battery because my cart is about 1/3 of the size as yours. I set myself the challenge top make everything as compact as possible. Have you or any of your subscribers come across this? Is there a solution?
If you setup your interrupts no CHANGE instead of rising, that would give you 40 steps per rotation instead of 20. Would this actually be better angular resolution or is this a fallacy I'm falling for?
I learned more about Arduino programming from this video in 40 minutes, then I did in almost 1 semester of my college classes that teaches us to work with the Arduino Uno.
Mb you should have stopped making part times and start following the course((?
I really like watching your videos. You explain the project in a way that I can understand. Most tutorials fly through the steps that some of the information is missing, or glossed over. That is why I appreciate your style of teaching.
For some reason, I volunteered to enter a robotics competition for my senior project... extremely thankful for this video
Excellent timing! Just got into this thing and wondered how the heck the speedometer things work, the Chinese instructions aren't much help and you are a hero doing this series in your calm and structured way, much appreciated!
Glad that my timing worked out so well for you, let me know if you have any additional questions.
The stuff we can get now from China is of incredible value but it does tend to lack a lot of useful instructions, which Is one of the reasons I made the video. Happy to hear you found it useful.
Decided to spend the corona lock down learning Arduino. So very glad I found your channel.
I’m starting with arduino. Still don’t know how to program it. Thank you for such a great explanation. To me is the best video I have seen. Keep up with it
Just a few short comments. First, please note that 25.4 cm is NOT "about a foot." It actually is 10 inches.
Second, while I enjoyed your video, as I always do, I came here looking for a way to control SPEED of two motors so they track accurately together. After all, the encoder disk is referred to as a "speed sensor". The motors you used, quite visibly, do NOT both turn at the same rpm, as the car drifted to one side when it moved. That was also obvious during your first demonstration showing rpm on the Serial Monitor. The two numbers were not in sync. If you do not have a video that addresses this issue, please consider making one.
Thank you for your time and efforts producing these videos. I enjoy them and have learned a lot from you. Keep it up.
Finally, to those who comment on your (and others') videos with lines like "I have a project due Monday, how can I do..." These drive me mad, as it seems they want YOU to do the work and let tham take credit for it to get their diploma/degree. Instead, I recommend those people actually invest in LEARNING something, instead of poaching others' work. Grrrr...
Hi Tim,
Have you heard of PID control? Theres a video on MATLAB that allows you to use this output speed to determine how to adjust it.
Also, about a foot is close enough to 10 inches. I think he rounded it.
Thank you very much! I mainly came here to begin to understand interrupts. I'm on my way!
Just a little note. Any variable that will be changed by interrupts should be defined as "volatile". So, counter1 and counter2 should be defined as volatile.
I am teaching myself Arduino and to a smaller extent robotics. I have followed your excellent tutorials about the robot car and every detail is clearly explained and easy to follow. The instructions on Interrupts (and the link to Nick Gammon) made my project jump ahead in leaps and bounds. I did find that the last code would not run until I put a few pinMode(??, OUTPUT) instructions in the setup to define the Arduino to L298N driver pins. Once they were set, away we went. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to your continued additions to the car.
It cannot be better. What a great video. Words aren't enough to praise your job. Congratulations, you deserve the best.
Excellent work! You are a great teacher. I found you last week and learn from you things I m looking for months before. Thank you and keep uploading!
This video is worth every minute watching, you made such a fine job, Thank you!
Definitely
Great video.
Your > is "greater than" not less than... You said it correctly towards the end, but it was confusing when you said it incorrectly while explaining the logic of your functions. Excellent demonstration though on the use of optical sensors, comparators and interrupts. Great stuff!
You should make a video on building a drone with a camera attached. Just a thought! You just explain things so well it would make things so much easier for my brain to crunch on.
The way you explain everything is amazing ..which let me stick till last...waiting for more material ..mostly excited about IOT
nice car
hi and thank you for this work, it's a great start for me.
Some improvements I did in the move routines code:
1. if you use "II" instead "&&" in "while", then the movement finish when both motors end at the same number of steps.
2. instead of "steps > counter_A" I use "counter_B >= counter_A" and instead of "steps > counter_B" i use "counter_A >= counter_B".. in this case each motor waits the other to complete same number of steps, so the movement is straight.
Outstanding video! You really explained things here in layman's terms which helped tremendously.
I'm new to the group and I must say this is great. I'm learning so much and having thought provoking ideas as well. Thank you for these great videos DroneBot Workshop
Excellent instructional video! Your videos are clear, easy to understand, and to the point. Thank you for all the effort and for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent Presentation. Clearly explained with complete details of project without any missing steps. Very easy to follow...thanks
This is an incredibly valuable resource, thank you for your work!
This is sooo crystal clear. I code more on Python instead. Go through Pyserial to response each other between Arduino IDE and Python. very much like this episode.
I understood everything whatever you explained.
Love from India 🇮🇳
Simply Superb .... No words . .. This is the best tutorial video I have ever seen in my life in youtube yet. And your lab, its awsome. Wish I could work with you. You have explained everything in such a way that even a beginner will understand it. I am also building a Robo car with same chasis but controller and functionalties will be different. Just came here while searching the working of speed encoders. I got what I need. I am from India and wish I could meet you in person ever and visit your lab. Keep going sir ...
A big thank you for a nice and informative tutorial. I was pondering whether to start to learn Arduino and found your channel after a short search. Very interesting - now I'm hooked!
Thank you very much for your videos. I'm french but i understand very well your english !
This is by far the best channel to learn arduino! Thanks a lot 👍
Thanks for the wonderful video. I am dding these comments *again* even though you have replied to similar comments. But I was looking for some *errata* in the text or in the video about that. After 3 years, it will take some digging to get to those comments, hence to help the late comers like me. Advance apologies.
39:00 - Adding 0.5 to the float value and casting to (int) will automatically do a upward rounding.
44:40 - 25.4 cm is 10 inches, not 1 foot. One foot is 2.54 x 12 = 30.48 cm
Brilliant Demo, with excellent explanations. The only suggestion would be (at 33:37) show the negative from the 9 volts goes to the outside (chassis) of the 2.1 mm power socket (centre is positive). I am jealous of how neat, tidy and well laid out your workshop appears.
Good eye John, I should have spotted that connection error but didn't until I read your comment. Hopefully most users will just use a 9-volt to 2.1mm connector and won't reverse the polarity. Thanks for pointing that out!
Your tutorials are excellent.Thank you very much for uploading the video with excellent camera positioning and video editing.
Say hi to Brazil!
I still do not speak your language very well, but I'm studying!
Thank you for the explanation. I searched for something very much, but without much success, I had to appeal and look in another language ... Thank you! Nós amamos vocês!
Hi to Brazil from Canada Marcos! You do much better in English than I ever would in Portuguese. I'm glad you were able to understand enough to make it useful for you.
My remark : if you hope to get your car running perfectly forward and make perfect 90 degree turns with this setup, dont get your hopes up.
The quality of those plastic gearboxes is, with my experience, just too low to achieve that goal.
The problem is the relation PWM to speed is not linear and the motors dont break free at the same moment.
So you have motor 1 already started while motor 2 is still stalling, leading it to make a turn.
I have tried to compensate for these shortcomings in many many ways, but none seem to work in a satisfying way.
Things i have tried : determining the breakfreepoint, linearise motor speed, use just one fixed speed and try to determine best PWM setting to obtain this, start with a short boost of 200/55PWM to break free and lower to desired speed after, adapt the motor speed while running forward. (if the difference in the counts is too great, make the faster motor slow down).
I tried switching out gearboxes, i have many of those here. All of it didn't lead me to the stable predictable behavior i was looking for....
I am going to switch to stepper motors for my requirement and/or do some tests with metal gearboxes later, i have hunch the main culprit are those plastic gearboxes, the tolerances on those just are not high enough for stable performance.
PS.: if you use the change interrupt instead of the rising one you can double your resolution at no cost
Great info, thanks for the insights from your experimenting.
@@YvanR0Y np! Good luck on your project?
@@spwim Hi. How can i contact with you? I need some help and i have some questions. halilsen.h@gmail.com
Thank you my dear for your clear and complyt lesson may god help you wish you all the best
Thumbs up. Very good, informative video. Blows all the other videos ive seen on these robots so far out of the game. Really appreciate the video.
THE BEST SET OF TUTORIALS ON ARDUINO.
You really are a hardworking man. Keep it up!
Absolutely amazing video for beginners like me. Really appreciate it🎉
This video just drove me crazy.....Such a great explanation......
You deserve so much more than 93K sub. Love your videos!
My compliments and applause. Simply amazed by such a well structured lesson.
Another way I found to make it go straight is using a compass and following a heading , so if something interferes with the robot it wil autocorrect and using encoders too he can know the distance .
very well done, congratulation. I love the details and the clarity of your explanation. Keep up the good work
Un gran aporte, sobre todo en la parte del código de las interrucciones.
Nice contribution, Very good information about interruptions.
Thank you, teacher! 2022 and still a great and relevant lesson!
very clear instructor efficient and going in details for all functions
This am amaizing channel! Really you are doing a beautiful job!
Excellent video, very easy to follow. Looking forward to the radio control video because that’s where I’m currently at with my own arduino robot project. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Glad you liked it, stay tuned as the remote control will be coming very soon.
Is there an amazon link for this introductory kit? I can't seem to find it on the website.
You are really awesome guy who really understand robotics
Thanks. Still helpful in 2021!
Excellent tutorial!!! Well done. I'm really enjoying your videos, pure information without the drama other guys trow out. I did a couple of projects but I used 6 cell holder for rechargeable batteries for 7.2V for the arduino and 8 cell for the H bridge. Keep them coming mate!! Regards
Glad you liked it, thanks for the nice comment! Next video is on Friday.
I just watched this video and went ahead to download more. I'm planning to build something big with this as soon as Corona virus is over and shipping resumes. Thank you so much. I would love if you can put me through whenever I get hooked up on the way.
You are simply the best. I love your videos. They have helped me multiple time.
Thank you very much. Robotics is fascinating and provides a vehicle for learning lots of different processes.I plan to automate my greenhouse to some extent and include remote monitoring of the parameters.
Thank you very much for tutoriels ....I'm from France
Thanks Bill. Much fun!
Excellent video, glad to see back. I'm looking forward to your development of this robot. I like the explanation of the use of interupts.
Glad you enjoyed it and I'm glad to be back. I'll definitely have more on the evolution of this robot very soon!
I was thinking at the end when you demonstrate the control of 1 step. How much would’ve the wheel actually turn after the power’s being cut and how do we measure it and encounter the accuracy problem (if there’s any)?
Your videos are awesome!!really helpful
The opto-isolator can also be used with a "flag" (a single piece of metal or opaque plastic) as a "home" sensor.
Thank you for the very good videos you make, they are very clear, very good work. I have a question, could you do a video that show an example of PID controller maybe with this kit? It could be very interesting to make a speed and another with a position controller. Thank you very much
Thank you for this tutorial!
Really nice video! Having bought a similar chassis last month, I made a Mobile controlled robot car using a bluetooth HC-05 module, but I kept wondering what to do about those speed encoders to control the distance they travel or speed of the motors. Well, thanks to you, now I know. The explanation about the Interrupts was exceptionally good and will help me in building some more ambitious projects. I will surely check out your website as well.
Thank you for the nice comment, so glad I was able to help!
Great Work... Your presentation was simple and amazing...Thank You very much. I love the way you arrange your tools too.
This is a great tutorial. thanks alot for your excellent way of presenting.
The way you demonstrate is really amazing... I look forward for your others tutorials and can you make some videos on IOT...
Glad you enjoyed it. I have several IoT videos and articles planned, they will be out very soon.
A great video explanation - very thorough and easy to understand. Awesome !!
Wow, that is so smart! Thank you for all the tips for my robot!
Hi Bill . Could u mabe give me some guidelines to combine this project with ultrasonic sensor. I have try doing it but some how get stuck in code.
A good teacher. thank you again
Hi, I have some questions about the power supply. Could you power both the Arduino and the L298N off the 9V? My chassis is much smaller, so I am trying to reduce space. Also, can't you power one of the two boards off the 5V supply of the other? Is there some risk of over-currenting if too many sensors are connected to the 5V supply on the Arduino? Thanks!
Actually, 25.4 cm is 10 inches (1" = 25.4 mm). A foot is about 30cm.
Simplest way to get a rounded value is to add 0.5 before doing the truncate (or cast). (or use a lib function which does that'I suppose)
Nice and clear-please keep up with this great resource! Thanks for your effort.
Thanks for your very nice comment!
Great Explanation .Thank you very much 👍
Sir! You are the best in your field.
Thank you for such great video.
Fantastic video. Thank you very much 😊 ☺️
very important basic concepts . Thank you
Bravo from Greece..
Could you pls explain about L298 Dual H-bridge motor controller: does it receive only 1 PWM signal at the same time to control motors in propotion, or can it receive two independant PWM signals from Arduino two control MotorA &MotorB output independantly?
love your theme song!
I love watching your content. Thank you so much. I was looking on Amazon for the chassis and there are a few. Any reason why you chose a 2 wheeled over the 4 wheeled one? I'm looking forward to ordering the parts and making stuff.
Why do you use TimerOne library here but not when the motors are regulated in the final sketch?
you are incredible good at this. Thank you very much
Very good work sir. I've been wanting to learn this information for some time. Thank you very much.
You are most welcome!
Absolutely fantastic instruction video. Very clear, to the point, with no unnecessary baloney. I'm definitely a fan. I'll be building one of these robots via these instructions to be sure. I eventually hope to build a far larger robot using the same basic principles. But building this little one to gain the experience is definitely the way to go. Thank you very much for making these video courses.
Awesome! This is the first time it's actually made sense to me. Thank you.
Glad I could help it make sense, you're welcome Matt. :)
What a neat Workshop , unlike the mess that I have in here, HOW do you manage it , OR you will be messy after the presentation is done, Or you have a an assistant .need a tutorial for being organised .
Great video. You must have gone to one of the big engineering schools. There is no X in et cetera.
Your a great teacher.
Hello. Thank you very much for giving this really informational and nice tutorial. I had a question regarding the code at 19:40 of your video. There is a TimerOne Library and I installed it from Paul Stoffregen's GitHub, but when I uploaded and tried running the code, I got Compilation Errors for 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'detachInterrupt', 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'aatachInterrupt', and 'class TimerOne' has no member named 'initialize'. The lines are in Void Setup (Second Line and Last Line) and Void ISR_Timerone (First Line and Last Line). My code is a direct copy of yours, so can you reach out to me as to why this didn't work on my side?
Sir put video based on how to control the motor with pid with using of encoders
can't you use l298n to power the Arduino through the 5v on the driver?
Can we show a sample wiring for 24V power supply to drive the 2 24V DC motors, assuming 9V power supply from battery to power Arduino to include a breadboard.
in short a circuit connection using L298n Motor Driver, Arduino board, Breadboard.
I have a car project for something like this. I'm new to Arduinos etc. I would like to make a automobile trip computer. I would need to process two hall effect fuel flow meters and either a square wave speedometer cable generator or incorporate GPS module. Need to display Distance, Instant MPG, Average MPG, Speed. To bench simulate the sensors I was thinking of using 3 of these motors individually controlled with hall effect wheels. I know one L298 with drive two motors. How many motors will one UNO drive? Can I individually control 3 motors? This all for the main project of an automotive tripmeter. Or is there some sort of simulated signal function should use in the software?
can you explain to us what a line follower PID control is ?
Really great and full explained . Thanks a lot !
Thanks for the video... I've built a cart using the same electronic components but I can't get the cart to move straight in either the forward or the reverse direction, and the distance that the cart moves is far less than the distance I put in the program. I've checked the logic over and over and it seems to be OK . I have the sneaky suspicion that the the HC-20K opto encoder is actually OVER counting steps! I checked my code by putting serial prints in strategic places and the code correctly calculates the correct number of steps for a given distance and the routines do start and stop the motors until the correct step count is reachedHence my suspicion that the speed sensors are reporting more steps than what have actually occured.
To give you an idea, my wheel diameters are 66.2 mm - so the circumference is 3.14156 x 66.2 = 208 mm . When I input 208mm the subroutine correctly calculates that 20 steps are needed and the motors are turned until the ISRs report that the step counts reached 20 steps, but one wheel turns ~290 degress while the other turns only ~180 degrees.
I am guessing that the interrupt pins are seeing a noisy signal and that some of that noise is triggering the ISR.
As I am writing this, I am also thinking that I am running both the arduino and the motors using the same battery... perhaps that may be the source of the noisy signal on the ISR pins? I want to run on a single 9 battery because my cart is about 1/3 of the size as yours. I set myself the challenge top make everything as compact as possible.
Have you or any of your subscribers come across this? Is there a solution?
If you setup your interrupts no CHANGE instead of rising, that would give you 40 steps per rotation instead of 20. Would this actually be better angular resolution or is this a fallacy I'm falling for?
Sir, Great video