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How to Glass Bed a Rifle Stock Presented by Larry Potterfield | MidwayUSA Gunsmithing
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- Опубліковано 3 вер 2013
- Glass bedding is a major component of the ultimate bedding package for rifle accuracy. Larry Potterfield, Founder of MidwayUSA, demonstrates glass bedding a rifle action while free floating the barrel. This ensures that any fluctuations in temperature or humidity will not change the rifle's point of impact.
For this and other MidwayUSA videos visit the MidwayUSA Video Library:
www.midwayusa....
Larry has so much class that he tests for free-floating with not a one dollar bill, but a TWO dollar bill! Love this man.
hi808allday
hi808allday hahaha... for sure.
hi808allday 2
I use three dollar bills they are thicker.
That's his way of letting us know we're getting twice the value out of his video! 😁👍
My dad did this to all his rifles back in the late 50 & in the 60s. It made a world of difference.
I love the “that looks pretty good” meanwhile it’s almost un-human quality, as always beautiful work
8 stunt rifles were used in the making of this video. Hahaha
I love these quick how-to videos.
They've gotten me out of some jams in the past.
My eyes are telling me "cool gun stuff" but my ears are telling me "Lion King". I'm so confused right now.
🤣I think he does African music when working on guns for hunting in Africa
After it's all finished he holds it above his head, standing on Pride Rock.
(i'll see myself out.....)
@Dario Kayden why do y'all need to check your girls DM? Worried or something? Lol
@@joshuagarzone6841 lol spammers.
@@cgrant26 yup 😂
Based on this video and the glass bedding kit from Midway. I thought oh hell I’ll try it. So i followed the directions and my rifle went from shooting 2+ inch groups to now sub moa. I also installed a Geiselle (sp?)trigger. This was an older gun that i’ve never been happy with so if i screwed it up, no harm done. Now i’m taking it deer hunting tomorrow. Thank You.’
I have been watching this series pretty much all day! You Sir, are a true artist and a magnificent gunsmith. Your skills are truly that of a master!
I like to put tape on the rails and any wood surfaces where compound might flow; it makes clean-up easier.
I love this custom stuff. I don't understand why he wants the clearance under barrel, i thought the idea was to make the whole set up solid?
Thank you for your help understanding
@@thomasbroking7943 You don't want anything touching the barrel because as you shoot it heats up the barrel and the barrel swells. If there is contact against the barrel it will push against the barrel and cause an inconsistent point of aim. Groups will be all over the place as the barrel heats up and cools between shots. That's why you want to Free Float the barrel.
@@krispy1k also helps with barrel harmonics more so than expansion, remember this is a bolt action hunting gun not a high round count competition gun.
@@thomasbroking7943 no just the receiver should be firmly supported not the barrel.
You can use wood dust as well to colour the resin. Used that trick on a knife I just made.
Forgive me if this was mentioned. I see quite a lot of people asking why to bed a barrel channel if your going to free float it. I suppose there could be differences of opinion, but at CST (Gunsmith school) we were taught that wood warps, crawls and does all sorts of things that you really want to control. Glass bedding the barrel channel of your rifle stock is a very good way of controlling the front end of your stock from twisting and crawling into the barrel of your free floated gun . I personally place several layers of wide electricians tape down the length of the barrel to create a natural offset from the glass bedding. This way no work is needed to get a smooth free float. By doing this you can help strengthen the forearm and seal it from moisture absorbing into an area of your wood stock that could critically affect your barrels performance.Good job Larry. To other, unless you think you know more than him, (this means you should be a schooled gunsmith, (25 years of Gun and ammo magazines wont do it) your going to learn more by asking "why do you" rather than saying "why should I."
+Gerald Michrina You don't have to be a schooled gunsmith to do the job better than Larry....he's is very knowledgeable and is in the business of firearms I recognize that and wont take anything away from him, however I've learned how to bed rifles a long time ago and have never had a rifle not respond exceptionally well to a bed job weather it was a partial or full bed. Just because someone doesn't have a gunsmith degree doesn't mean he or she cant do certain jobs on their own rifles and that includes bedding. With all due respect to Larry's know how and his success in this business his bed job still isn't as clean a job as it could be, just look at the unsightly gaps around the barrel @1:02........Sure it will all fill in with bedding compound and may not pose a problem, since its in the free float area, however it looks like the first bed job I ever done, since then my bed jobs are nice and clean you would have to look really close to see any bedding at all in its reassembled state. You don't need a piece of paper in a frame just to do a good bed job.
I am impressed with your support. You must be a good friend. I apologize if I disparaged anybody work. As you likely know and I think I pointed out, there are many reasons he could have this issue. Bedding being one of them. I can't assume anything sight unseen and have known many good looking bedding lobs to have missed the point entirely. Bedding for accuracy is not the same as doing fine wood to metal work. One has has to take into consideration pressure points where you want the gun to freely vibrate and where you do not and if the barrel should be pressure bed or free float or barrel blocked. None of these things have to do with how good a craftsman a gunsmith is or isn't. I have seen truly ugly jobs shoot magnificently and I have seen the reverse. For me to assume that your friend knows all there is to know about bedding a rifle for the sake of accuracy would be foolish on my part, since there are gunsmiths who don't specialize in bedding for accuracy. I'm a target shooter and a benchtedt shooter an avid hunter as well as a certified gunsmith from Colorado School of trades since 1982. I seen a lot heard a lot and not always where the assumptions of my customers accurate. Now please don't get upset, you may be spot on and your friend might be the next Dean Wentworth of stock making. As I pointed out that was only one possible reason the gun could be doing this, I was not saying it was the reason the gun was doing it in fact I think I also said that I have an idea why it's doing it but really didn't want to say because without looking at the gun or having more information I could not possibly narrow it down to the actual reason. I was only trying to help, not disparage your friends abilities. I apologize I thought he was asking for help and I thought I was trying to give it. I missed the point entirely and I apologize sometimes I forget that people go on these forums just to spout not to listen and learn
+Gerald Michrina I don't know who your reply was for, as I don't have a friend doing or advising me how to bed rifles....I do them myself. I use the cellophane off of a cigarette pack to gauge my free float rather than a dollar bill and have done partial bed jobs that by no means have caused problems you mentioned like wood warp/ twist etc. if it has I haven't noticed any problems, and I'm bedding as far out as the cartridge sits 3 inches or so. I'm bedding with the idea to relieving stress and reducing vibration or at least make it consistent anyway. Now when I do a full bed I sand the bedded barrel channel up to the point where the fit will allow the cellophane of a cigarette pack to pass freely throughout the channel except for the 3 inches I mentioned in front of the recoil lug. I don't know if you were talking to me or not, but I don't just spout off on something I have experience in even if I don't have a diploma.
Gerald Michrina Good info thanks
I'm doing firearm technology and still lost. I know mock bedding, epoxy and the glue is temporary but is the glass, pillar and forensic a permanent bedding
A Dremel tool works really well to remove the wood, you can create some negatively tapered holes to ensure the bedding locks into the wood, Then using crayons or candle wax instead of moding clay allows you to simply melt out the last bits of blocking material that never seems to be able to be reached. That's how my father and I have always done it anyhow, between us we have glassed well over 100 rifles over the years. We have beefed everything from 1842 Rifled Springfield muskets to M1A's and everything in between for collectors who want their guns to be more than just wall hangers. Keep in mind we won't destroy or modify any rare or really collectible gun.
Great Tip - Thanks for sharing. Is there anything that you different than what is shown here?
@@Quality_Guru About the only thing to keep in mind is to be VERY generous with the release compound and make sure the action is as disassembled as possible and all the holes and voids where the parts go are well filled in with the blocking compound, be it clay or wax, which I have always used the later. If the forend is thin or prone to moving around, I will dremel out some channels to be filled with epoxy and possibly even lay some small diameter, high strength steel rod in the channels to reinforce the epoxy to stiffen the forened. I have also done a similar trick using some flat steel around the action to stabilize it, just be sure the metal is completely buried in the epoxy, if it touches the action, it can change the harmonics and cause accuracy issues.
If you don't have access to stock makers bolts to secure the action after laying in the bedding, you can use your regular action screw but make sure them and the holes the go into, are well covered in release because you can lock your action if the epoxy migrates into the holea, which it will try to do every time. Heating them with a soldering iron on the ends for several minutes will usually break them free but you will have to refinish or replace them after.
Also, make sure to mix up more epoxy than you need to the tune of 150% or even double what you think you will need because it's a serious pain to try and mix a little more up while juggling the stock and tools to keep it from running out.
Also, the actions and screws WILL NOT come out as easily as he shows, it will take some patients and persuasion to get them free and it will not just easily lift put the first time, trust me on this. A rubber mallet and impact screwdriver will be your friend.
Larry , you are the man! You have perfected talent an art
in gunsmithing.
If you shoot from a sandbag, the stock starts binding and the gap between the stock and the barrel goes away - the barrel is not free floated anymore. I propose to apply multiple layers of tape or you can put some modelling clay onto the tip of the stock to ensure clearance.
I just bedded my M1A. I used RCBS "Case Slick" spray to lube the action. Worked great! I put it on liberally, and believe me that's the only liberal thing I want near my guns.
Did you bed the original wood stock? I watched this video specifically for tips to glass bed my M1A.
+fightfan1971 My current stock is one of those black synthetic plastic things, so I did it as an experiment for now. Once I make my wood stock I will take it more seriously. The instructions in this video are good, though.
M1A is why I'm here as well haha
The M1A is quite capable of good accuracy. Even with my "rubber" synthetic stock I got a 1" group @ 100yds with an OAL of 2.825", which is pushing the max length for a magazine. Once I have a solid wood stock, and proper bedding I'm hoping to get much better groups. If you reload your own ammo you can play around with the cartridge overall length (COAL or OAL) in order to get the bullet at best distance from the rifling lands. This is something most haven't gotten into yet, and I just recently have been playing with that, but the results are pretty fun! Larry Potterfield has a great set of videos. Larry is good people! I also recommend looking up TiborasaurusRex on UA-cam. He has a virtual college course on all things guns with over 100 videos.
Jonno2summit nice!
I like how he makes it look so easy.. when I do it, there is a bunch of swear words being thrown out, a mess and a governed rifle that won’t come outta the stock.
It is an excellent way to seal the wood from moisture.
Larry, you are a true craftsman and a professional. Love you're videos. thank you so much.
I have always used candle wax melted into the areas that need to be filled and if the forend is to be thin or can possibly flex, I chisel or Dremel in a chanel under the barrel to hold a short section of stainless steel 3/16 rod and glass in permanently in place. I also drill several holes below the tang and either fill them with glass bedding or 1/4 inch SS rod and glass. Living in the south I have found that the wood on stocks can, and will, move even with the best sealing of the wood wih high and low humidity, hence the beefed up bedding job. Also, I have found that the forends of many of the more economical composite and plastic stocks will move with just moderate pressure contacting the barrel and have found glass bedding them in and filling the hollow voids under the barrel GREATLY improves their accuracy. For the forened, in a pinch you can even use good old wally world quick setting epoxy or jb weld to stiffen the forened. One tip though if you go that route, place either several layers of paper or find some way to hold the forend off the barrel a good bit while the epoxy sets to ensure the barrel is free floated
Its amazing, this Videos are 3 mins and you learn everything to do it yourselfe. I LOVE your videos! Keep up the great work.
Chears
You are a real tradesman Mr.Potterfield.
You sir. are a inspiration for me, so much knowledge about guns, I love your videos.
I loved the $2 bill at the end. Nice touch.
larry son. you have very honorable background music.
I love the background song that’s in these videos
It may just be me, but I'd swear they adjusted their audio levels to allow us to focus on his voice much more easily.
It helps a lot during his more complex jobs, those high pitched flutes used to distract a little more easily.
Whether I want to or not... it could be that I also play guitar and listening to music makes me analyze it to a certain extent.
Thank you Midway USA!
The background music with the echo in his voice makes this like a religious epiphany lol THE GODS HAVE SPOKEN!
Larry is the Bob Ross of the Gun World. Then there is Ian who is the nazarine.
The worlds greatest gun hand model:)
Definitely a PITA process that you might consider having a pro do for you. I have a JRA M14 that could benefit from this but I have to figure out first if I want it done to wood or a laminate stock that is weather resistant
thanks for the update
Clever - going to try this on my 1944 Mosin Nagant M44.
Great video and great music!
I believe my dad has done this on his fancy long range target guns
Nice too the point video plus the music made me feel like I was on an Amazon jungle cruise.
Back when gunsmith really knew there stuff. This guy. Is good. ,
The videos music makes me think I'm gonna be going on a safari adventure.
Just curious why you would put bedding compound in the barrel channel? The barrel is freefloated so what is the point? Thanks
To keep the front of the stock from warping. Epoxy won't warp and will hold the wood in place over time. He put tape on the barrel....looks like electrical tape....probably about .010 in thickness to allow it to free float when tape is removed.
Love your instructional videos.
What happen to the tape on the recoil lug?
It’s removed
Does any bedding compound get put into the recoil lug area of stock? Hence the reason for the tape on front and bottom of lug? Thanks
Larry you applied tape to recoil lug prior to bedding but when you removed action from bedding there was no tape. Did you remove tape prior to bedding?
Larry you have me saying “that looks pretty good”
Great vid,Larry
Instead of wiping/filing to get rid of excess bedding material on the top of the stock, how about putting masking tape down on all areas you want to keep clean before adding bedding material? Is this procedure unnecessary with a laminated or synthetic stock? How much would a gunsmith charge for this? How much would a gunsmith charge for pillar bedding? Thanks, much.
Big Ol' Bear tape would eliminate excess over the edges of the stock making cleanup easier. Yes, this is still needed on laminate stocks as well, same principle.
As for pricing, call around and ask.
that looks pretty good
Awesome job 👏
You know what else has a glove-like fit? Brenda Potterfield.
If I wanted to replace a damaged wood rifle stock with a new synthetic stock, do I need to have it bedded?
You're a gunsmith, Larry
Beautiful work.
So... why glass bed when it's pillar bedded? What's the benefit?
It uniforms the forend, if the wood swells in humidity or otherwise curls/creeps the bedding can curtail that and maintain a free float barrel. It can also minimize the action-to-stock whip during the vibration of recoil if theres any amount of slop between the pillars, wood, and reciever. Overall, the effect on groups is minimal, but it is real. It may turn a 1.25 moa rifle into a 1 moa rifle, but it's not a night and day difference
$2 bill at the end. Fancy that.
You're the man!
Larry really fucks with this African beat.
thank you .
awesome work
Just about perfect.
Does anyone else love the music? Larry, you're my favorite. Let's hang out and listen to the Lion King soundtrack.
Wish I could have you do this to my ruger American ranch the plastic stock is too flimsy and I really can’t do it myself sadly due to unnamed reasons
A proper free floating barrel should have 1/8th inch space under the barrel and at least 3/32 inch on the sides... The barrel actually bends and wobbles when being fired.
Assault rifles have thin barrels for low weight for the soldier to carry. I believe that a traditional gun with a heavy barrel won't have that much wobble. Plus the free-floating is more of a trendy gimmick than an actual necessity. Temperature, ammo type and used barrel will offset your zero more than a touching foregrip.
ZdenekJindra All barrels have a natural harmonic. Keeping that consistent is a big deal for any type of long range shooting.
shananagans5
Of course, haven't I already named the variables one has to keep stable?
zdenek: If you are talking about the notch in an AR-15/M-16 barrel, that is absolutely not what the notch is for. That notch is for clearance to mount an M-203 40mm grenade launcher.
kragseven
I do not wish to deny the fact that free-floating barrel has some merits, I just don't believe its effect is significant enough to justify the modification, especially if the gun isn't long-range.
Why do you bed to the end of the forearm if its a free floating section anyway? To remove the possibility of expansion of the wood or simply for uniformity? I only ask because whenever I have seen bedding jobs in the past they do not bother to go past the free floating section.
Nearly perfect!
Side note, I like the catch phrase & it's true. I noticed some people making fun of him a few videos back & have to admit that's not how responsible people behave.
Just imagine how much they paid for the equipment and team to do these videos. It's just for our benefit and so that we can do it right with extra money to spare. I can say without a doubt that it's not a business model plan. They'll either sell it to a gunsmith to do your work or they'll sell it to you.
We're all so lucky it's free!
You are a stud Larry!
This is a good question I would like to know as well.
Larry sails all the gunsmithing tools you'll need
You can use crayons as a release agent. It's better than a file. if using JB weld do it in 2 stages . Glass bed with Saran Wrap the first go, use crayon after 24 hours to do second bed job without wrap to clean up any waves made by wrap. Just saying...
Crayons,sawran wrap and such might not be the ticket when your target game is more dangerous than the rifle
I used to buy from Midway all the time. But they changed their contract with UPS, so that UPS won't leave their packages at the door (without a human taking it), and they won't hold them for you at the UPS facility. So three failed meetings with the delivery man and they go back to Midway. They apparently did that because Midway sells hazmat items. Kinda crazy, because those items are clearly marked. So I now find what I want using the MidwayUSA site, then google to find someone else selling the same item.
First world problems...
As opposed to all the other currencies that used different symbols, yeah. Not many other countries use the dollar symbol to describe their currency, and they're all small and it's common practice to use the designation with the dollar symbol, as well. And I don't know on all of them, but it seems like $100 of their currency buys even less.
Isn't this the stock that later had to have a steel rod put into it, because it was so warped?
this is the first time i have seen this guy and this video but this bedding is wrong,
Bedding tape AKA electrical tape?
Why bed the entire length of the stock, when your going to free float the barrel ?
Matt Miller N8QZH any point in the stock that warps due to moisture could put pressure on the barrel. Pressure from the rear of the stock on the barrel could cause the barrel to contact the front of the stock for instance.
I haven’t seen that sort of bedding, all the way down the stock but still maintaining a floating barrel.
Yeah it is interesting. I wonder what the reasoning was?
If it's free floating, why add bedding under the barrel area? Confused.
There are numerous benefits to bedding the fore-end area. Woods expands in different temperatures which can cause pressure points on the barrel. Bedding the fore-end reduces this expansion. The expansion also occurs when the wood absorbs water, so bedding seals the wood. The smooth surface of the bedding allows water that enters under the barrel to run off and dry quicker which prevents rust on the barrel. It also stabilizes the fore-end from cracks and recoil.
I prefer not to bed the barrel cuz if you get a piece of crud in between the barrel and the bedding, you’ve created a pressure point without knowing it and you’ll miss that shot of a lifetime. Also if the stock decides to move, it will create a pressure point as well. And then one day your rifle won’t shoot like it did the day before. If you insist on bedding the fore end like he does on the vid, then use 3 or 4 layers of tape so there’s more room for these things to happen.
Hi, I am a long time watcher, and I am building a black walnut custom stock from scratch for my enfield n04 mk1, what should I do with this stock to make the rifle more accurate? And what can I do to re-finish the rifle, (it is not in the best condition) I have considered aerosol dura-coat, but I'm not sure, and I would prefer not to spend very much. I would just like an idea of what to do to the stock, and rifle to get it ready for shooting, I have a recoil pad, and sling lugs already, but I am not exactly sure what else to get, any help, or tips would be very much appreciated.
I think if you pour molten glass into a solid pattern of nitrocellulose, it'll fume colors into the glass as it burns away, so you could get a tie-dyed glass look this way, and the carbon gives it structure, like an opal...
I think you could make gun stocks out of this Glass-Injected Nitrocellulose-Based Carbon-Fiber, and it would be better stronger and more heat resistant than polymer... and also look cool.
I think a lattice-like frame of nitrocellulose carbon fibers, acting like a skeleton for the glass, it all will melt together, but it reinforces the glass like re-bar concrete, so thay it stays in one piece, and just glass dust gets knocked off, if you whack it on a rock or some concrete.
Probably cheaper than wood, with an initial expensive investment.... it pays for itself
I would give anything to be a gunsmith
Why is the bedding compound beeded if the barrel is going to be free floated?
Larry i have a question why did my accuglass hardner dry out
Its not necessary to bed the fore end if its going to be Freefloated anyway
AND you are suppose to bed the trigger guard
CUAL ES LA IDEA DE QUE EL CANON FLOTE, SI LOS RIFLES MAUSER ESTABAN AGARRADOS CON UN COLLAR DE METAL Y ERAN MUY PRECISOS PORQUE AHORA ESA MODA.??
Well, you did say $100, not €75 or ₭N785,738 or some unit commonly used outside of the US. In China guns are virtually impossible for a civilian to own, and even then only a few hunting rifles are available to some people who hold a hunting permit in some regions. Illegal ownership can cost you your life.
What do you gain by glass bedding if the stock is already pillar bedded?
Just because the pillars are in doesnt necessary mean that the barrel will be free floating
@@JMsShootingChannel keeps wood from warping over time.....epoxy won't move. By the way you can do this with any type of epoxy.....I like 5 minute type......I've come close to gluing a barrel into the stock a few times when I first started bedding. I use vaseline on the metal these days.
@@cugir321- vaseline may leave a film that is too thick and will not allow as close a fit as shoe polish. You only want about .0005” film thickness.
put the rifle in the stock stock then pull it out, and when you pull it out, wipe off excess away from any places you don't want it. THEN set it back in the stock....also I'd recommend against bedding under the barrel because it does literally NOTHING when you are free floating anyway
+seth newman Not true! the barrel should be bedded out to the end of the chamber about 3 inches and then free float the rest of the way out. Weather you decide to bed the channel or not you still have to have bedding compound under the chamber, however you must reseal the channel to avoid moisture and by that I mean ambient air moisture as over time it will get into the wood and cause it to warp. Better yet if your going to bed an action just do the whole thing anyway while your at it and you wont have to worry about moisture in that respect.
C D Kennedy well yeah but i mean not the whole barrel. Otherwise it wouldn't be free floated
seth newman You can still bed to the end of the barrel channel and still be free floated you just have to sand it to a free floated depth start about 3 inches in front of the recoil lug and go to work cause it will take a bit to get it to float. You might say what's the use of the bedding material out beyond the chamber, maybe nothing if its a lay up carbon/ fiberglass/ kevlar stock, or maybe even a laminate, but if its all one wood stock it pays to bed the whole thing it does have its benefits and too you can rest assured its all one piece bed job.
C D Kennedy instead of sanding try applying layers of vinyl tape. use as many layers as you want for your free floating. thus way you avoid sanding and any mistakes that can and do happen.
Say someone forgot to use the release agent and now their barrel & action are stuck. What are some good ideas to help get the rifle back apart?
Asking for a friend...😅
Did your friend manage to fix it?
If you couldn't cut the tape and qpply some pressure, using heat should soften it.
If not, undercut with a utility knife or dremel
Yes,that two dollar bill huh...I have one with a red stamp though..
Anyone know the cost of getting this done at Midway?
Why is it called "glass bedding" when the epoxy resin is plastic?
Originally fiberglass resin was the choice. The name stuck.
Still a little confused. What is the benefit of a free floating barrel?
which mone this third tool (with wooden handles)? where to buy?
USA midway Larry sails all the gunsmithing tools you'll ever need
whats the reason to bed the stock all the way to the end if you're going to still free float the barrel? Is it to make the stock more rigid up front?
+mojo jojo You have good instincts. Correct, it helps seal the forearm from moisture which will make the forearm warp and eventually touch the barrel. It also is there to provide strength to resist warping if moisture gains access somewhere else on the stock.
All that for “NEARLY” perfect?
What is the name of this solder that you are putting on?
This looks great and relatively easy. I'd like to do this to my Remmington 700 which has a plastic stock - how do I do this?
+Jed Wunderli It is not a lot a lot different than the wood method. make sure to rough up the synthetic material for the bedding to get a good bite. So when your hogging out the material for the bedding to fill in, don't polish or sand your rough work. It will be best to let that stay as is and the glass bedding grab it. Once the guns comes out you will have the finish you desire, or rather the reverse mirror of your gun.
Einfach nur genial.
hey buddy I have sks rifle I installed a scope on it and sight it in I want to change the stock on it will the scope lose it sighting
i don't want my barrel floating ~ i want it to fit tight to the stock . Best way to get a tight fit, is glass bedding . Yea it kicks more, with the energy going to the butt. but its more accurate
As bedding tape was applied to the barrel, I'm surprised masking tape was not applied to the top edges of the stock to avoid having to file off the excess afterwards.... Unless there's a purpose/advantage in the method shown that I'm missing?
he still was working on the stock
+Matthew Rosso Your correct if this was a finished stock, but you usually bed a new stock before the final sanding. S he will take a double cut file and work the glass bedding off the stock, then finish the job from there. It creates a much better job since it is easier to get a perfect line were glass ends and wood begins.
+Gerald Michrina thanks for the explanation.
Why is tape put around the recoil lug? Wouldnt you want the tightest fit you can around that area?
My question also!
I am no gun expert by any means & I received a custom laminated stock as gift from my father for my Browning 30.06. Its got a "gray", red & tan wood color scheme on it. What could I use for the dye in the "Bedrock" so it flows w/ wood somewhat??? I was think maybe a gray color since the is more gray on the top of the stock. Any help would be great! Thx in advance, Steve
Try mixing red and tan until you reach the proper tone. That's more a color theory than gunsmithing question.
Me gustaría trabajar con usted
Perfect 👍🏼
Im confused about free floating barrels. I would think that since the barrel isn't supported for most of the barrel then it would wobble around and make it less accurate because it's basically a lever. I guess if the barrel is hardened then it wouldn't wobble but still I don't see how it is better
A barrel slightly whips as the bullet travels down it.....if it hits the wood then can effect accuracy.....that's why you free float.
The stock attached to the barrel or the barrel resting on the stock will move the barrel up or down depending on if you're holding the gun up at the forend or not