Just bought my first table saw. Craftsman 113 built in '51. I have not used a table saw since my brother's around 19... uh... 79 maybe. Always used a tape measure at each end of the rip fence to get it square. Your nifty measuring gauge is great and I love those screw jacks. Thank you!!!
I just realized. My table saw is the same one you have, and is set up almost identically. Only I have upgraded to the Align A Rip fence, which I like pretty well, and on the left side a fancy Craftsman router table, with a 2hp Craftsman router mounted underneath (which in the past 30 years it has been there, I have only used it a handful of times). Full disclosure, I worked for Sears in a previous career, in my teens and 20's. I'm adding a comment, because if I understand it right, UA-cam's algorithm gives you bonus points for Likes, Subs, and Comments. (love your channel)
I certainly appreciate that. I looked at aftermarket fences, but I always kept a machinist rule by the saw to set the fence. My shop made gauge is just the next logical step.
I've got a 1969 113 inherited from my dad with extra cast wings. The very first thing I did was yank that fence and rail and replaced it with a Delta 36-T30 T4 fence system. Love it. Gives me 36.5" right and 10" left cut abilities. Upgrading the motor next... 1.5 or 2HP 220V.
@BryanPAllen Can't really say, but I think it is just the newer model. The only possible change over the T3 is the extra flip down sub-fence for thin stock... but I could be wrong and it also comes on the T3.
The Delta t3 fence system turned my old Craftsman 113 into a very accurate cutting saw. Have a new 1 1/2 Hp motor coming soon, the old 1Hp one finally bit the dust. This saw has been in the family since 1976, got to keep it alive as long as possible.
That's been a prospective project for some time. I want a riving knife attached to the arbor carriage that can be removed for use with the dado. I'm not happy with throat plate knives.
Awesome stuff!!!! I just got one of these from my father in-law, I had a hard time getting it to 45deg (only can get to about 43 deg), seems like the miter/angle screw rod doesn't have enough room (even with the collars off it) to push to 45deg. I am able to hit a 90deg with no issues, and about 2inches overhang (on the other side of the collar)... First time working on an older saw, and so I'm not sure if i can just unscrew the rod (the rod is shown at 2:33) all the way out?... Then re-insert when it's close to 90 so I would end up with more room when it's at the 45 deg... Or if that'd cause more issues. Any insights?
There are stop screws for 90 and 45 degrees. The screws must clean of debris before the screw is set. I have mine set a little past the mark because I use a digital angle gauge to set the blade.
I have a 113 from about 1988. I don't have that much of a problem with the fence. It has a gear drive which I like for small adjustments. Before locking it down, if you give it a push to snap it to the table then lock it, I don't have a problem with it being square. Am I doing something wrong?
If you're not having a problem, you're not doing anything wrong. Later model fences are better, but the 113 was in production for a very long time. When mine was new, it never had a "slide and lock" fence.
Yes, I did. I took the front and rear rail and welded them to make one front rail. I made a new rear rail with a piece of angle iron. This gives me a 24 inch cut on either side of the blade.
@@BronZeage I only use a 10 gallon Shop vac . My table saw has a 4" outlet which is reduced to a 3" Lateral. it also serves my chop saw. So ho tiny is it ? LOL
@@user-dp8nz7qn8e The Lab is a working shop and the rent is due on the first. My CAB fence gauge gets accurate cuts in the same time and I didn't spend $350.
Just bought my first table saw. Craftsman 113 built in '51.
I have not used a table saw since my brother's around 19... uh... 79 maybe.
Always used a tape measure at each end of the rip fence to get it square.
Your nifty measuring gauge is great and I love those screw jacks. Thank you!!!
Thank you as well.
This video was a big help! Thanks good sir
You are very welcome and thank you as well.
"Without so much as a whimper." 😂 Love this invention. New subscriber here. Thank you!
Thank you very much.
@@BronZeageme too
Subscriber that is. Love your humor and am looking to fix my Dads saw.
@@BryanPAllen Thank you very much.
I just realized. My table saw is the same one you have, and is set up almost identically. Only I have upgraded to the Align A Rip fence, which I like pretty well, and on the left side a fancy Craftsman router table, with a 2hp Craftsman router mounted underneath (which in the past 30 years it has been there, I have only used it a handful of times). Full disclosure, I worked for Sears in a previous career, in my teens and 20's. I'm adding a comment, because if I understand it right, UA-cam's algorithm gives you bonus points for Likes, Subs, and Comments. (love your channel)
I certainly appreciate that. I looked at aftermarket fences, but I always kept a machinist rule by the saw to set the fence. My shop made gauge is just the next logical step.
I've got a 1969 113 inherited from my dad with extra cast wings. The very first thing I did was yank that fence and rail and replaced it with a Delta 36-T30 T4 fence system. Love it. Gives me 36.5" right and 10" left cut abilities. Upgrading the motor next... 1.5 or 2HP 220V.
The motor I used can be run as 220v. If I upgrade the Lab's electric service, I'll rewire the motor as well.
@csimet I looked for that and all I can find is the T30 T3. What is different about the T4? I need a fence also for a similar Craftsman.
Thanks
@BryanPAllen Can't really say, but I think it is just the newer model. The only possible change over the T3 is the extra flip down sub-fence for thin stock... but I could be wrong and it also comes on the T3.
@@csimet thanks for your reply 👍
@@csimet where are you buying?
The Delta t3 fence system turned my old Craftsman 113 into a very accurate cutting saw. Have a new 1 1/2 Hp motor coming soon, the old 1Hp one finally bit the dust. This saw has been in the family since 1976, got to keep it alive as long as possible.
This is a 1959 Model I inherited from a distant relative. I considered a replacement fence, but decided a CAB fence gauge fit my budget.
Just add a splitter after the blade to prevent kick back. That should be easy to do. The 1 1/2 HP motor upgrade is perfect for that saw.
That's been a prospective project for some time. I want a riving knife attached to the arbor carriage that can be removed for use with the dado. I'm not happy with throat plate knives.
@@BronZeagelooking forward to seeing that project
@@BryanPAllenI've considered a few different designs, but nothing I'm happy with.
That is an excellent idea.
Thank you very much.
Awesome stuff!!!!
I just got one of these from my father in-law, I had a hard time getting it to 45deg (only can get to about 43 deg), seems like the miter/angle screw rod doesn't have enough room (even with the collars off it) to push to 45deg. I am able to hit a 90deg with no issues, and about 2inches overhang (on the other side of the collar)...
First time working on an older saw, and so I'm not sure if i can just unscrew the rod (the rod is shown at 2:33) all the way out?... Then re-insert when it's close to 90 so I would end up with more room when it's at the 45 deg... Or if that'd cause more issues. Any insights?
There are stop screws for 90 and 45 degrees. The screws must clean of debris before the screw is set. I have mine set a little past the mark because I use a digital angle gauge to set the blade.
I have a 113 from about 1988. I don't have that much of a problem with the fence. It has a gear drive which I like for small adjustments. Before locking it down, if you give it a push to snap it to the table then lock it, I don't have a problem with it being square. Am I doing something wrong?
If you're not having a problem, you're not doing anything wrong. Later model fences are better, but the 113 was in production for a very long time. When mine was new, it never had a "slide and lock" fence.
I have the same table saw but my rails only let me adjust the fence on one side of the blade. Did you change the fence rails?
Yes, I did. I took the front and rear rail and welded them to make one front rail. I made a new rear rail with a piece of angle iron. This gives me a 24 inch cut on either side of the blade.
You dust collection would work much better with a larger diameter hose.
Yes, it would, but that would require a larger vacuum.
@@BronZeage I only use a 10 gallon Shop vac . My table saw has a 4" outlet which is reduced to a 3" Lateral. it also serves my chop saw. So ho tiny is it ? LOL
@@user-dp8nz7qn8e it's a Eureka upright pulling through a Thane separator.
@@BronZeage Your kidding right ? Go buy a decent shop vac.
@@user-dp8nz7qn8e Next time you are in Baton Rouge, stop by the Lab. I'm sure your advice will be very useful. Lunch is my treat.
Just buy a new rip fence. The Vega U26 or u50" Rip fence. Problem solved in under two hours. No more measuring.
Where's the fun in that?
@@BronZeage I never said it was fun but if you want accurate cuts and no errors you'll follow my advice. Saves time and wasted cuts.
@@user-dp8nz7qn8e The Lab is a working shop and the rent is due on the first. My CAB fence gauge gets accurate cuts in the same time and I didn't spend $350.
@@BronZeage Ok if you say so. But if you tried the Vega fence you would never go back.