Yes indeed - when looking at the tree, no matter the stage it is at, you choose what you want it to progress to in the future. And the best thing is - as you say frequently- if a boo-boo happens, redesign where it can go to to enhance or feature the change [ when you get lemons make a new lemonade]. Keep them coming my friend. REALLY love your followup up videos that show how it’s progressing. 👍
Thank you for sharing. If I understand correctly, for branching the best practice is to: 1. Remove obscurities from the tree: Branches that obscure the natural shape of the tree and leafs that hide the point in which the trunk becomes branch, primary becomes secondary, and secondary become tertiary. This serves to open up the canopy to allow the underlying structure to be observed. Simultaneously, it serves to mimic nature. Old trees tend to have their leaves toward the exterior of their canopy, and the branches tends to grasp out and be generally well-defined; they have apices and their sub-branches don't exceed that point. Similarly, branches that radically change direction are rare and branching tends to divert through the nodes while carrying some form of inertia. Perhaps, it could be viewed as the progression of a river. Suppose a river that were initially start straight, flowing from some point directly into a reservoir; that reservoir representing the primary apex grouping and its subsequent branching. Over time, that river erodes the riverbed and begins to curve; although not exclusive, assume it were to curve as would an S. At some point it may erode to a point in which a point in its river-bed is no longer sufficient to contain the full force of the river and the stream diverts; eventually finding it's own reservoir in context creating a sub-apex. This repeats, creating a series of sub-apecies, until perhaps something happens, a drought or change in topology perhaps, and any of the connected streams dry up. To which, the primary stream could dry up completely or partially and a new leader is chosen; which may create a cascade, windswept, or any form and in an evergreen may create a Jin or Shari feature. And through bonsai techniques, we shape this ‘river’ to accentuate age or completeness in design. 2. Define the apex A bonsai cannot grow indefinitely; or at least not vertically. Each grouping should be compact and well-defined unless there is utility found in its bypass; such as with the concept of ‘sacrificial branching.’ 3. Think not of the present but of the future Over a significant enough period of time, even a cutting of the smallest branch may become the truck of its own tree. The branches will continue to grow and their purpose should be defined beforehand rather than through incident; although incident may lead to an even better design not initially thought of. Branches tend to have redundancy, so even if a mistake be made, it won’t permanently disfigure the tree. In that sense, it is necessary to be confident in pruning and even to make mistakes as doing so will bring opportunity and truly allow your impact to be passed with the tree.
@nicholasproctor184 You ARE a proctor! You think about things. Admirable! I will chime in. 1. Remove obscurities from the tree: Less is more! Remove redundant branches and leaves because they obscure the beautiful movement of the trunk. New growth will follow the natural tendency of the tree depending on lighting. When in doubt, keep a part of the branch and strip leaves to make jin to simulate its natural aging process. 2. Define the apex. You expressed well. Well said. Study the apex of trees, each variety has different way of growth. 3. Work towards your vision of the tree Develop a vision to guide your pruning. Vision must not be static. Think of the possibility at each viewing, When I enter college, my vision or goal is to have a steady job go get out of poverty. Had I stopped there…. Always built on the past, your current asset. Enjoy your bonsai! Enjoy life!
You inspired me to do the clip and grow method also. Thank you for all the information you share. Could you do a video sometime and share with us your knowledge on how you handle your clippings to make new bonsai? Like you said in this video also, you use the clippings from this tree as I also do not like to waste any clippings😉😂
You are right. For sure there is no reason to use a deep cascade pot...it is more between a moyoki and a semi-cascade. I planted in this pot several years ago...and feel this tree is still being developed...for more growth for me to reshape...So this is more a growing pot. When I am ready, I will definnitely find a shallower pot...other dimentsions will likely be OK. Thank you for caring what is right!
It’s beautiful. And probably my favorite so far.
Thank you for the kind words!
Absolutely learning A TON from your videos! Thank you for sharing your work and knowledge!!!
Excellent video! Thank you!
🙂
Sending you some encouragement because your videos are so encouraging to me in the first place!
Thank you for the kind words of encouragement!
Yes indeed - when looking at the tree, no matter the stage it is at, you choose what you want it to progress to in the future. And the best thing is - as you say frequently- if a boo-boo happens, redesign where it can go to to enhance or feature the change [ when you get lemons make a new lemonade]. Keep them coming my friend. REALLY love your followup up videos that show how it’s progressing. 👍
You got it!
Un grand merci pour le partage!
Merci!
Thank you for sharing.
If I understand correctly, for branching the best practice is to:
1. Remove obscurities from the tree:
Branches that obscure the natural shape of the tree and leafs that hide the point in which the trunk becomes branch, primary becomes secondary, and secondary become tertiary. This serves to open up the canopy to allow the underlying structure to be observed. Simultaneously, it serves to mimic nature. Old trees tend to have their leaves toward the exterior of their canopy, and the branches tends to grasp out and be generally well-defined; they have apices and their sub-branches don't exceed that point. Similarly, branches that radically change direction are rare and branching tends to divert through the nodes while carrying some form of inertia. Perhaps, it could be viewed as the progression of a river.
Suppose a river that were initially start straight, flowing from some point directly into a reservoir; that reservoir representing the primary apex grouping and its subsequent branching. Over time, that river erodes the riverbed and begins to curve; although not exclusive, assume it were to curve as would an S. At some point it may erode to a point in which a point in its river-bed is no longer sufficient to contain the full force of the river and the stream diverts; eventually finding it's own reservoir in context creating a sub-apex. This repeats, creating a series of sub-apecies, until perhaps something happens, a drought or change in topology perhaps, and any of the connected streams dry up. To which, the primary stream could dry up completely or partially and a new leader is chosen; which may create a cascade, windswept, or any form and in an evergreen may create a Jin or Shari feature. And through bonsai techniques, we shape this ‘river’ to accentuate age or completeness in design.
2. Define the apex
A bonsai cannot grow indefinitely; or at least not vertically. Each grouping should be compact and well-defined unless there is utility found in its bypass; such as with the concept of ‘sacrificial branching.’
3. Think not of the present but of the future
Over a significant enough period of time, even a cutting of the smallest branch may become the truck of its own tree. The branches will continue to grow and their purpose should be defined beforehand rather than through incident; although incident may lead to an even better design not initially thought of. Branches tend to have redundancy, so even if a mistake be made, it won’t permanently disfigure the tree. In that sense, it is necessary to be confident in pruning and even to make mistakes as doing so will bring opportunity and truly allow your impact to be passed with the tree.
@nicholasproctor184
You ARE a proctor!
You think about things. Admirable!
I will chime in.
1. Remove obscurities from the tree:
Less is more!
Remove redundant branches and leaves because they obscure the beautiful movement of the trunk. New growth will follow the natural tendency of the tree depending on lighting.
When in doubt, keep a part of the branch and strip leaves to make jin to simulate its natural aging process.
2. Define the apex. You expressed well.
Well said. Study the apex of trees, each variety has different way of growth.
3. Work towards your vision of the tree
Develop a vision to guide your pruning.
Vision must not be static. Think of the possibility at each viewing,
When I enter college, my vision or goal is to have a steady job go get out of poverty. Had I stopped there….
Always built on the past, your current asset.
Enjoy your bonsai!
Enjoy life!
You inspired me to do the clip and grow method also. Thank you for all the information you share. Could you do a video sometime and share with us your knowledge on how you handle your clippings to make new bonsai? Like you said in this video also, you use the clippings from this tree as I also do not like to waste any clippings😉😂
Please refer to several videos I hav done on propagation. I will do another. one with more complete thoughts.
Please stayed tuned.
👍👌🙂
🙂
Hi Milton do you have any Forrest bonsai
I intend to show how to do this on UA-cam...including a big juniper forest...Please sta tuned.
Why did you choose that pot?
It looks too big to me.
You are right. For sure there is no reason to use a deep cascade pot...it is more between a moyoki and a semi-cascade. I planted in this pot several years ago...and feel this tree is still being developed...for more growth for me to reshape...So this is more a growing pot.
When I am ready, I will definnitely find a shallower pot...other dimentsions will likely be OK.
Thank you for caring what is right!