Hi Mike, best bit of filming I have seen in years ,it showes how hard it is working on your own .I build boats and end up in similar situations and use gaffer tape ,hot glue and long poles,G clamps...A right old faff! And I talk to myself mostley for company [as I don't film me ] Love watching your vids enjoy them immensely ! you have a good commentay on products with non scripted comments are good. And my new galvanised chassis comes on tuesday 24/012/23 so very excited abot that. All the best Tim Cornwall
I’ve just finished installing this damn thing on my 1998 Defender 90 300tdi. Your video was outstandingly helpful and saved me a lot of time. Britpart’s instructions are rubbish. I wasn’t prepared, however, for the amount of fettling required to get it to fit. The spacer under the bottom bracket was too big and fouled the body. The crossmember spacer tube was 2mm too long. The slot in the carrier that holds the piston needed to be opened out, and (as you found) only 3 of the holes in the door plate lined up with the factory plate. Apart from that, I think it’s good value compared with the other makes, and I have to say the paint finish is excellent. Oh, and I got though half a can of Krown! Drink up!
I love the way you show everything, warts an all. I often wonder if the person writing the instructions has ever done the install. I guess we know the answer :)
I am so happy that a guy as skilled as you are is hitting these problems. Usually I look at these things and assume they are right and I am a dummy! You have restored my faith in humanity :)
I put my wheel carrier, exactly the same as this on the video like 3 years ago, before a trip to Morocco. On the top hinge bracket there were no captive nuts, just bolts washers and nuts, the installation was easier that way. About weight my Defender 90 has in the back an "outback" drawer set and over that, electric twin air pump, jerrycans for water, aluminium box for tools, a box with different oils, second battery, and the dometic 50l fridge, and in the top the Autohome Overland roof tent, so the spare wheel needs a new place to put, like the bonnet, there is too much weight in the back, and I know the bonnet is not strong enough like the series models... Also I don't want to change the original set of springs with the Bilstein B6 Sport shocks, the ride is perfect with them, not stiff and not so soft. Any improvement to reinforce the bonnet? Thick sheet of chequer plate on top?
To get to the top bracket captive plate just open the side window. My window was was seized but I managed to ease it. Also my reinforcing tube had to be ground down too and my cross member was in good condition.
Howdy mate great episode here's a tip when I'm on my own fitting parts I use 3M green tap to hold everything together as a third hand it's a trick I learned in the composite industry, only just got on to your channel I've slowly been watching your back catalogue I have a 96 disco 1 300tdi and you have already given me some invaluable education thanks very much respect from Australia 👍🏻
Hi Mike, If you look at the instruction pictures the large washers are fitted either side of the nylon bushes on the two pivot points, as always with britpart instructions not very clear. Mind you I've fitted this type as well as the Mantec/ genuine Land Rover (which this one is nearly identical to) and all have useless instructions. Must say though the britpart one lasted longer before starting to dust away !!! Thanks for the great vids , keep up the great work and entertainment. Cheers Paul
That 16mm head on a 10mm bolt and 18mm head on 12mm bolt caused lots of people to over do it on the jamesons. We also had nuts for 16mm and 18mm spanners. That kak idea did'nt last long long here in South Africa
Well through bolts single handed are so frustrating that's why i keep a pack of blu tack, glaziers putty or even plasticine in the tool box shove the bolt in the hole hold bind it with whatever option start the other nut/bolt end and remove the putty it cant drop out leave final tight up until its all aligned worth a try and great to keep the apprentice busy but out of the way!!! All assuming you have access at both sides but cant reach. Certainly tightening nuts alone can be frustrating Lol... apparently
the white thing is UHMW on my britpart one, a quick shot of silicone spray and your good to go, i put some 2 part epoxy in the piece of ready rod because it likes to back out when hit with vibrations. i put the washers on each side of the bracket and it seems fine.
According to post WW2 army maintenance manuals the thin lock nut goes on first, followed by the main nut. I've got into some arguments about this, but actually I agree, and it makes sense.. discuss..
I’ve got a later style TD5 style back door on mine as it came on a power company body I brought. They had the carrier holes with bolts in only and that door is spot on as I think it’s never had a carrier. I put spare on roof rack or in trailer if I’m going on long runs.
Nice work Mike. Took me about three weekends to fit mine for the same reasons and had to cut a chunk out of the military bumperette too. The bolts that came with mine were beyond rusted within weeks but otherwise it’s been good quality for the price.
Hello Mike, I had a Krown every time you said "drink rustproofing." The video went blurred half way through but I was too happy to care. Before it went blurred I was trying to work out if the Defender had a 24" lift or you are a dwarf. I feel a bit dizzy, time for a lie down I think.
@@BritannicaRestorations As much Krown Rustproofing you spray on and around Land Rovers and parts, you'll never have a problem with your SHOP floor rusting out!
I see it's been said already . Double sided tape or a willing assistant 👍🏻 Also I would do ad you said and drill and bolt the spare holes for aesthetics and a bit more belt and braces.. Really enjoyed the video , peace and Love brother 👍🏻☮❤
You should have bought an ORE wheel carrier, it only bolts to the rear crossmember, so no drilling holes in the bodywork (I won’t drilling holes in landy), with only a plate and connecting rod attached to the rear door there’s no weight on the door or body, all the weight goes through the crossmember to the chassis, it is extremely easy to fit (I fitted mine on my own) and looks great, they’re not the cheapest, but I think they might be the best.
Maybe the lift was not your friend when it came to the top bracket. It looked as though you could have reached if you went from the top if the Landy had been on the floor and maybe with the help of a stool. As always though Mike, you found a way.
I had to buy a new rear door recently and having already spent an unholy amount of money on this rolling nightmare I went cheap. I bought the door from Rovers North and upon arrival I noticed some discrepancies from the original. Namely, all of the holes for the tire carrier and key hole are missing. It’s also the older style hinge type that uses the spring lever. Needless to say I’ll need to make mods. After watching your video, I believe I’ll only need to drill the holes that hold the plate in position correct? I will not need to drill holes for the lug studs. I figure I’ll mount the arm solidly and use it to position the base plate and mark off the holes as I do not have a reference point. Well actually, I still have the outer plate I could use as a template on the inside. Although, this door does not have the reinforcement horizontal square tube below the window. It only has the lower tube if that makes sense. Usually the plate is surrounded on four sides with steel reinforcement. Not so on this new POS door. Anyway, great video as always. Thanks to you, Moz’s Mancave and Lakeside Autobody I’m about to finish this turd 😂
Did you ever install one of the Masai spare wheel carrier versions? AND On top of a Masai North American Spec(NAS|) rear step? It's the long one that runs all the way across the cross member and inculdes the tow bar mount. Apparently it goes together fine. I have the step installed after a lot of buggeration and calls to the owner of Masai today. I can explain, but it hurts. The expression 'Fits where it touches comes to mind'. So tomorrow I will continue and install the spare wheel carrier, I have the prayer mat out and I am facing east :)
I am probably totally wrong but it would be nicer maybe with a rubber gasket behind the plate on the backdoor? Without the fixings around the perimeter it looks like water would get trapped between the pate and the door. A sort of "n" shaped rubber gasket would keep water out but still allow drainage. It is better watching you dropping random washers and stumbling across stupid fitting problems, I would be swearing through the entire process.
Installing one of these on a 110 with a long range tank ranks as the worst job I've ever done on a land rover. No access behind the cross member = key hole surgery with pliers.
If you've ever removed the spare wheel bracket from the back door of a Disco 1 Mike, you'll know you need arms like an Orangutan. And always remember, "if all else fails, read the instructions"...
I noticed that you lifted the carrier slightly to get the bolt to go through the hole.. Does that mean that all the weight would still rest on the door, or did you manage to adjust it so that the force went through the lower arm hinge? 🤔
Good video I've got a question would a classic Range Rover Steel diesel tank or petrol tank go into a Land Rover Defender 1987 thank you very much Danny😁👍
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for getting back so quickly only there's a cheap one on eBay and I thought I'd grab it the land rove I am doing with the Isuzu engine needs a new tank 😁👍
Can anyone help? I bought this same carrier, but I can’t identify what threads are on the 3 wheel locators to hold the spare wheel on! I have tried normal wheel nuts but they didn’t work, don’t want to destroy the threads by trying too many!
Hi Mike, best bit of filming I have seen in years ,it showes how hard it is working on your own .I build boats and end up in similar situations and use gaffer tape ,hot glue and long poles,G clamps...A right old faff! And I talk to myself mostley for company [as I don't film me ]
Love watching your vids enjoy them immensely ! you have a good commentay on products with non scripted comments are good. And my new galvanised chassis comes on tuesday 24/012/23 so very excited abot that. All the best Tim Cornwall
Thanks Tim - more to come!
I’ve just finished installing this damn thing on my 1998 Defender 90 300tdi. Your video was outstandingly helpful and saved me a lot of time. Britpart’s instructions are rubbish. I wasn’t prepared, however, for the amount of fettling required to get it to fit. The spacer under the bottom bracket was too big and fouled the body. The crossmember spacer tube was 2mm too long. The slot in the carrier that holds the piston needed to be opened out, and (as you found) only 3 of the holes in the door plate lined up with the factory plate. Apart from that, I think it’s good value compared with the other makes, and I have to say the paint finish is excellent. Oh, and I got though half a can of Krown! Drink up!
I love the way you show everything, warts an all. I often wonder if the person writing the instructions has ever done the install. I guess we know the answer :)
Thank you so much!
I am so happy that a guy as skilled as you are is hitting these problems. Usually I look at these things and assume they are right and I am a dummy! You have restored my faith in humanity :)
No worries!
Love these longer videos. I removed my carrier and put the wheel on the bonnet when I fitted and new rear door. Never regretted it.
Right on! Some like longer videos , some do not - thought it would be a treat!
I put my wheel carrier, exactly the same as this on the video like 3 years ago, before a trip to Morocco. On the top hinge bracket there were no captive nuts, just bolts washers and nuts, the installation was easier that way. About weight my Defender 90 has in the back an "outback" drawer set and over that, electric twin air pump, jerrycans for water, aluminium box for tools, a box with different oils, second battery, and the dometic 50l fridge, and in the top the Autohome Overland roof tent, so the spare wheel needs a new place to put, like the bonnet, there is too much weight in the back, and I know the bonnet is not strong enough like the series models... Also I don't want to change the original set of springs with the Bilstein B6 Sport shocks, the ride is perfect with them, not stiff and not so soft. Any improvement to reinforce the bonnet? Thick sheet of chequer plate on top?
That britpart wheel carrier is a very close copy of the Mantec one I fitted to my 90 with the exception of the connector to the door
Correct!
Glad it's not just me that struggles with Britpart instructions!
To get to the top bracket captive plate just open the side window. My window was was seized but I managed to ease it. Also my reinforcing tube had to be ground down too and my cross member was in good condition.
Use allthread when locating the top bracket , remove one at a time then replace with bolts. The x3 oversize washers fit over the wheelcarrier studs.
i really enjoy the long videos. Thanks
Glad you like them!
Great to hear the nylon plunger still makes the squeaky noise as mine did years ago
Great video. I just fit one of these s$#tpart wheelcarriers to my td5 90 today. The instructions were a waste of time but your video saved the day!
Glad it helped!
double sided tape works for holding captive nuts during fitting!
Howdy mate great episode here's a tip when I'm on my own fitting parts I use 3M green tap to hold everything together as a third hand it's a trick I learned in the composite industry, only just got on to your channel I've slowly been watching your back catalogue I have a 96 disco 1 300tdi and you have already given me some invaluable education thanks very much respect from Australia 👍🏻
Great idea
Hi Mike,
If you look at the instruction pictures the large washers are fitted either side of the nylon bushes on the two pivot points, as always with britpart instructions not very clear. Mind you I've fitted this type as well as the Mantec/ genuine Land Rover (which this one is nearly identical to) and all have useless instructions. Must say though the britpart one lasted longer before starting to dust away !!!
Thanks for the great vids , keep up the great work and entertainment.
Cheers
Paul
Thanks for the tip!
That 16mm head on a 10mm bolt and 18mm head on 12mm bolt caused lots of people to over do it on the jamesons. We also had nuts for 16mm and 18mm spanners. That kak idea did'nt last long long here in South Africa
Hell, it has taken us years to get metric bolts here in Canada, and now they change the head sizes!
Glad to see that it only took me 3x as long to fit those brackets. I feel much better now! Excellent work.
Great to hear!
Well through bolts single handed are so frustrating that's why i keep a pack of blu tack, glaziers putty or even plasticine in the tool box shove the bolt in the hole hold bind it with whatever option start the other nut/bolt end and remove the putty it cant drop out leave final tight up until its all aligned worth a try and great to keep the apprentice busy but out of the way!!! All assuming you have access at both sides but cant reach. Certainly tightening nuts alone can be frustrating Lol... apparently
Right on
the white thing is UHMW on my britpart one, a quick shot of silicone spray and your good to go, i put some 2 part epoxy in the piece of ready rod because it likes to back out when hit with vibrations. i put the washers on each side of the bracket and it seems fine.
Hi Mike 👋 thanks for sharing this video update 🤔👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
No problem 👍
I think I am going to take a drink every time Mike says, "Crown Rustproofing", or mentions Crown after this video!
An engineers favourite four letters. R.T.F.M. Read The Flammin Manual! lol
According to post WW2 army maintenance manuals the thin lock nut goes on first, followed by the main nut. I've got into some arguments about this, but actually I agree, and it makes sense.. discuss..
fitted an ex-military one to my series 3, as I was fed up with the rear door breaking. Great value for money.
Good tip!
A lesson in how men don’t read instructions. 🤣
Very entertaining and informative.
Glad you enjoyed it
I’ve got a later style TD5 style back door on mine as it came on a power company body I brought. They had the carrier holes with bolts in only and that door is spot on as I think it’s never had a carrier. I put spare on roof rack or in trailer if I’m going on long runs.
Nice work Mike. Took me about three weekends to fit mine for the same reasons and had to cut a chunk out of the military bumperette too. The bolts that came with mine were beyond rusted within weeks but otherwise it’s been good quality for the price.
Educational and amusing, thanks Mike. 👍
Very welcome
Oh I would think that the big washers would fit behind for an aluminium rim.
Yes you are right! Not in the instructions!
@@BritannicaRestorations they are for the wheel : washer first, then the wheel
Good video Mike!
Glad you enjoyed it
I use a little bit of plumbers putty as a third hand
Or silicone.
Congrats on NINE MILLION VIEWS!
Getting there Dave !
974,700 hours viewed! ( or 58,482,000 minutes!)
This guy is a hero who is watching this much - I will send him a sticker!
Lol!
Hello Mike, I had a Krown every time you said "drink rustproofing."
The video went blurred half way through but I was too happy to care.
Before it went blurred I was trying to work out if the Defender had a 24" lift or you are a dwarf. I feel a bit dizzy, time for a lie down I think.
Sorry about that! May need a hair of the dog later!
@@BritannicaRestorations As much Krown Rustproofing you spray on and around Land Rovers and parts, you'll never have a problem with your SHOP floor rusting out!
I see it's been said already . Double sided tape or a willing assistant 👍🏻 Also I would do ad you said and drill and bolt the spare holes for aesthetics and a bit more belt and braces..
Really enjoyed the video , peace and Love brother 👍🏻☮❤
I would have used tape if I had any....
@@BritannicaRestorations
understood, but you got it fitted so all is well
👍🏻☮❤
Hi Mike. I was thinking maybe you could have used welding magnets to hold that top bracket in place while you put the nuts on the back?
Great idea
You should have bought an ORE wheel carrier, it only bolts to the rear crossmember, so no drilling holes in the bodywork (I won’t drilling holes in landy), with only a plate and connecting rod attached to the rear door there’s no weight on the door or body, all the weight goes through the crossmember to the chassis, it is extremely easy to fit (I fitted mine on my own) and looks great, they’re not the cheapest, but I think they might be the best.
3 x more expensive to do what? If you were a serious off roader then I would agree, but many of these vehicles will never leave the asphalt
Maybe the lift was not your friend when it came to the top bracket. It looked as though you could have reached if you went from the top if the Landy had been on the floor and maybe with the help of a stool. As always though Mike, you found a way.
Could be
You need one of two things... A wife to hold the bits or double sided sticky tape... I use sticky 2 sides...!
Nice one!
I had to buy a new rear door recently and having already spent an unholy amount of money on this rolling nightmare I went cheap. I bought the door from Rovers North and upon arrival I noticed some discrepancies from the original. Namely, all of the holes for the tire carrier and key hole are missing. It’s also the older style hinge type that uses the spring lever. Needless to say I’ll need to make mods.
After watching your video, I believe I’ll only need to drill the holes that hold the plate in position correct? I will not need to drill holes for the lug studs. I figure I’ll mount the arm solidly and use it to position the base plate and mark off the holes as I do not have a reference point. Well actually, I still have the outer plate I could use as a template on the inside. Although, this door does not have the reinforcement horizontal square tube below the window. It only has the lower tube if that makes sense. Usually the plate is surrounded on four sides with steel reinforcement. Not so on this new POS door.
Anyway, great video as always. Thanks to you, Moz’s Mancave and Lakeside Autobody I’m about to finish this turd 😂
Sounds like you got a Series door
Might ave a go at it myself squadron leader.. excellent idea ..😍😎😁pip pips
Go for it!
Did you ever install one of the Masai spare wheel carrier versions? AND On top of a Masai North American Spec(NAS|) rear step? It's the long one that runs all the way across the cross member and inculdes the tow bar mount. Apparently it goes together fine. I have the step installed after a lot of buggeration and calls to the owner of Masai today. I can explain, but it hurts. The expression 'Fits where it touches comes to mind'. So tomorrow I will continue and install the spare wheel carrier, I have the prayer mat out and I am facing east :)
Sorry not seen one
I am probably totally wrong but it would be nicer maybe with a rubber gasket behind the plate on the backdoor? Without the fixings around the perimeter it looks like water would get trapped between the pate and the door. A sort of "n" shaped rubber gasket would keep water out but still allow drainage.
It is better watching you dropping random washers and stumbling across stupid fitting problems, I would be swearing through the entire process.
What about taking the corner window out? They are so pathetically held in place...
It did cross my mind!
Installing one of these on a 110 with a long range tank ranks as the worst job I've ever done on a land rover. No access behind the cross member = key hole surgery with pliers.
Lol! Been there - done that!
If you've ever removed the spare wheel bracket from the back door of a Disco 1 Mike, you'll know you need arms like an Orangutan. And always remember, "if all else fails, read the instructions"...
I admit this was the first BP one I have fitted - you live and learn!
I noticed that you lifted the carrier slightly to get the bolt to go through the hole.. Does that mean that all the weight would still rest on the door, or did you manage to adjust it so that the force went through the lower arm hinge?
🤔
There is no weight on the door - you put the bolts in place then tighten up
Good video I've got a question would a classic Range Rover Steel diesel tank or petrol tank go into a Land Rover Defender 1987 thank you very much Danny😁👍
Possible - there were more pipes on the RRC V8 tank - they could catch the body - not sure
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks for getting back so quickly only there's a cheap one on eBay and I thought I'd grab it the land rove I am doing with the Isuzu engine needs a new tank 😁👍
What size tire is that may I ask
I thought you where tryin to stay AWAY from BritParts .?😂👍😜
Is the same from a company called ORE not much better ..? 🤔
Greetings from Germany sir 👋
Yes - but at £500 + shipping ORE are very expensive for a vehicle that will never see rough service
Now just sit back and watch the thin powder coating peel off and the steel behind it rust. Don't ask me how i know.
That is because you didn't use Krown rustproofing!
Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations Kerching!
Can anyone help? I bought this same carrier, but I can’t identify what threads are on the 3 wheel locators to hold the spare wheel on! I have tried normal wheel nuts but they didn’t work, don’t want to destroy the threads by trying too many!
They should be M16x1.5
If all else fails read the destructions. They looked as hopeless as per usual.
Yeap
Always look at buying these only to be put off by them 😂
Better than a busted rear door!
@@BritannicaRestorations not if it's already busted ! Waiting to replace all my tub cappings and other foam tapes before buying one
Mike the influencer. 😉🤣
lol!
Blue tac
Cut a "cat flap" in that door
Interesting