thanks for the update, just got myself one of these too, had an issue at first, but your first method works because you dont actually need the sink resistor... for a while it reduces the EMF build up which would eventually blow the LEDs the white block actually absorbs the extra power and dissapates it through heat (the block get warm when used) thanks again!
@manuelrodz85 Yes, you should have the resistors on if you want it to blink like they did before. Also, it hey help to prevent the LED panel from getting fried to quickly. It's pretty easy to do. I just twisted the wires together and used electrical tape.
Just finished mine and I have a theory... Tell me if this sounds possible. Since the integrated light is LED, maybe the panel simply needs to be ground, using the break light, where the old light bulb was. The reason I'm thinking this is because I'm pretty sure I messed up the ground altogether, but it still work just fine with the resistors in place. I don't know. Just a thought.
So, why can't you just take your ground directly to the that grounding screw deal on the frame vs doing what you did? I'm trying to work on mine right now and I can't figure our how you previously did your wiring, but it seems to me like you don't need to go to the tail light ground. But hey, I don't know anything about this kind of thing. Just wondering what you think?
Yes it does, but motor electrics seem to work on differant rules, ha. One question. What is the blink speed like on yours, mines really fast almost 180 blinks per minute, did you have to lower the impedence resistor, or did yours just work?
I hate to be that guy, but this is not the correct way. You actually did it correctly the first time. You want the resistor in parallel (like the first time) - going across voltage to ground. You do not want series (like this time) - in line in the power wire. Here is a good video I found that explains everything. ua-cam.com/video/6SH3ElHaf28/v-deo.html
thanks for the update, just got myself one of these too, had an issue at first, but your first method works because you dont actually need the sink resistor... for a while it reduces the EMF build up which would eventually blow the LEDs the white block actually absorbs the extra power and dissapates it through heat (the block get warm when used)
thanks again!
@manuelrodz85 Yes, you should have the resistors on if you want it to blink like they did before. Also, it hey help to prevent the LED panel from getting fried to quickly. It's pretty easy to do. I just twisted the wires together and used electrical tape.
Just finished mine and I have a theory... Tell me if this sounds possible. Since the integrated light is LED, maybe the panel simply needs to be ground, using the break light, where the old light bulb was. The reason I'm thinking this is because I'm pretty sure I messed up the ground altogether, but it still work just fine with the resistors in place. I don't know. Just a thought.
So, why can't you just take your ground directly to the that grounding screw deal on the frame vs doing what you did? I'm trying to work on mine right now and I can't figure our how you previously did your wiring, but it seems to me like you don't need to go to the tail light ground. But hey, I don't know anything about this kind of thing. Just wondering what you think?
Yes it does, but motor electrics seem to work on differant rules, ha. One question. What is the blink speed like on yours, mines really fast almost 180 blinks per minute, did you have to lower the impedence resistor, or did yours just work?
I hate to be that guy, but this is not the correct way. You actually did it correctly the first time. You want the resistor in parallel (like the first time) - going across voltage to ground. You do not want series (like this time) - in line in the power wire. Here is a good video I found that explains everything. ua-cam.com/video/6SH3ElHaf28/v-deo.html