I want to tell you that your video's step by step guide and presentation is the best video I have ever watched in my life. It was an absolutely helpful and informative presentation. I want to thank you for your time and effort. Thanks, sir. I will definitely hit the like button and subscribe to your channel. God bless you.
If you use a piece of thin wall pipe to hold the brushes out whilst you insert the armature, then simply pull the pipe out, allowing tgw brushes to snap back in place. Very easy.
Another step would be to pull the starter drive and clutch assembly out of the case and grease the front bearing. When everything is complete I like to apply power to the unit on the bench and be sure the starter runs properly.
For more torque on the screw just use a screw attachment for a ratchet... This way you can manually apply more torque with the handle without having to use any power tools.
That's true, but if the screw is stubborn and starting to strip, you don't need more torque, and the penetrating oil and impact driver would be the way to go. JIS drivers/bits are also worth a try, as they can handle more torque without camming out.
@@carlnikolov Haha, true, though that would look strange to me - I'd be suspicious that the owner just grabbed a drywall screw for a DIY repair! I guess we do have Torx...and external Torx...and triple-square... I learned about JIS bits after trying to work on my Honda and realising that what looks like Phillips isn't necessarily Phillips.
I agree, JIS bits are the way to go Those big screws that hold the gearcase together are #3 JIS but I found it was easier to loosen them with a 9mm socket.@@WiekingderViking
I BOUGHT A 66 CHEVY C 20 AND IT HAD A NEW NEVER STARTED GM 350 CRATE MOTOR ALREADY INSTALLED THE SURPRISE WAS IT HAD ANOTHER SBC V 8 350 IT WAS COMPLETE WITH ALTENATOR, CARB, W/P AND STARTER. TOOK THE OLD MOTOR TO A LOCAL ENGINE BUILDER AND HAD THEM DO THE MAG. FLEX AND IT TURN OUT TO BE A EXCELLENT MOTOR. SO I DECIDED TO HAVE A 383 STROKER BUILDER SAID TO GET A MINI STARTER BUT I WAS THINKING JUST REBUILDING IT SINCE IT CAME OFF OF THIS MOTOR. MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I EVEN TRY TO REBUILD IT OR JUST GET A NEW MINI STARTER SINCE ITS A MORE POWERFUL MOTOR.
I'm confused. Are you telling me that I really don't need to buy a new or refurbished starter? That the existing starter just needs to be cleaned and maybe a few contact Point replaced? I'm having problems with my starter. My car won't start. The starter spinning but it's not starting the car.
@@gsp911, if the starter cranks and sounds normal and the car doesn’t turn over, then it’s an air or fuel issue. If the starter doesn’t turn over then it’s likely the contact points inside the starter have worn down. If the starter cranks but is weak then it could be a bad battery or bad alternator not charging the battery.
@@DIYJeff No, if the engine does not turn over but the starter cranks, then it is because the starter does not engage the flywheel. If the engine turns over but doesn't start, THEN it's the ignition, air/fuel, compression or a million other things.
ummm, if your armature has those grooves in it, that's NOT wear... that's factory BALANCING. Your NOT going to find a new one that doesn't have those grooves
7:24 Those grooves were made by the manufacturer for the purpose of balancing the shaft. Do not spread falsehoods if you do not know the subject in depth.
Can't you just use a socket on the brushes...this way they are all pushed out of the way and when you seat it back together simply remove the socket out of the way.
I want to tell you that your video's step by step guide and presentation is the best video I have ever watched in my life. It was an absolutely helpful and informative presentation. I want to thank you for your time and effort. Thanks, sir. I will definitely hit the like button and subscribe to your channel. God bless you.
Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad it was helpful for you.
@7:24 Those grooves are cut for balancing. NOT a defect or damage.
Thank you brother for pointing out in a very correct way with explanation❤
This looked like an Acura Integra starter. I’m here trying to find out what grease to use and I got that info, thanks for that!
If you use a piece of thin wall pipe to hold the brushes out whilst you insert the armature, then simply pull the pipe out, allowing tgw brushes to snap back in place. Very easy.
Thanks for taking me to another steps
Excellent detail!!! Great Job!!!!!
Thank you.
Thank You for your valuable information
You're welcome
The grooves in the armature are for balancing has nothing to do with wear
@Matt Robinson...hmm that's good to know. Thank you for sharing.
Be very careful with the plastic pin holder. I sprayed ec cleaner and it warped/softened the plastic pin holder.
😊 awesome 😎 teachong thank you soo much ❤
Another step would be to pull the starter drive and clutch assembly out of the case and grease the front bearing. When everything is complete I like to apply power to the unit on the bench and be sure the starter runs properly.
@ENGINEER125, great tip, thank you.
Great video
Nice work. Difficult on this type. Looks to me.
Can you demonstrate on an AC Delco 16716 solenoid retail inflated costs on one is like 267.00 f%#" 😢 ridiculous. Thanks
Also blow out the spindle with some compressed air after polishing that copper. Even though the wire in lacquered for insulation best to be safe.
Thanks for the tip
Are there any ways to find the starter rebuild kit for a specific car? For example, I need to one for a 96 Honda Accord
Nice job👍👍👍Thank you for making this video's 🙏🙏🙏
@De Niro, you’re welcome!
Great video!
For more torque on the screw just use a screw attachment for a ratchet... This way you can manually apply more torque with the handle without having to use any power tools.
That's true, but if the screw is stubborn and starting to strip, you don't need more torque, and the penetrating oil and impact driver would be the way to go. JIS drivers/bits are also worth a try, as they can handle more torque without camming out.
@@thromboid is the US just adopted the robertson screw design...we wouldn't have camming out to begin with lol.
@@carlnikolov Haha, true, though that would look strange to me - I'd be suspicious that the owner just grabbed a drywall screw for a DIY repair! I guess we do have Torx...and external Torx...and triple-square...
I learned about JIS bits after trying to work on my Honda and realising that what looks like Phillips isn't necessarily Phillips.
@@thromboid more surface area grabbing the bolt. plus a deeper more robust contact point same principle as a 6 point socket being better than a 12.
so easy!
perfect
@usama6028, thank you for watching. I hope it was helpful for you.
You need a JIS bit, not a #2 Phillips
Using Japan Industry Standard “JIS” screwdrivers on such screws will make a world of difference for you!!!
I agree, JIS bits are the way to go Those big screws that hold the gearcase together are #3 JIS but I found it was easier to loosen them with a 9mm socket.@@WiekingderViking
Can I send you my starter? It sometimes doesn't work. (2001 chevy express van.) I was told something about "dead" spots in it?
I BOUGHT A 66 CHEVY C 20 AND IT HAD A NEW NEVER STARTED GM 350 CRATE MOTOR ALREADY INSTALLED THE SURPRISE WAS IT HAD ANOTHER SBC V 8 350 IT WAS COMPLETE WITH ALTENATOR, CARB, W/P AND STARTER. TOOK THE OLD MOTOR TO A LOCAL ENGINE BUILDER AND HAD THEM DO THE MAG. FLEX AND IT TURN OUT TO BE A EXCELLENT MOTOR. SO I DECIDED TO HAVE A 383 STROKER BUILDER SAID TO GET A MINI STARTER BUT I WAS THINKING JUST REBUILDING IT SINCE IT CAME OFF OF THIS MOTOR. MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I EVEN TRY TO REBUILD IT OR JUST GET A NEW MINI STARTER SINCE ITS A MORE POWERFUL MOTOR.
Totally a personal preference. Since a starter isn’t too expensive, it’s probably worth just buying a new one, especially for your application.
Badass
Can you rebuild a 1985 Yamaha Riva 125 xc125 Riva
I'm confused. Are you telling me that I really don't need to buy a new or refurbished starter? That the existing starter just needs to be cleaned and maybe a few contact Point replaced? I'm having problems with my starter. My car won't start. The starter spinning but it's not starting the car.
That’s somewhat true. For the most part yes. But if turn the key and the starter cranks, then it’s not your starter that’s the problem.
@@DIYJeff How do you know that?
There are several things that can be wrong, and very rarely other than the starter.
@@gsp911, if the starter cranks and sounds normal and the car doesn’t turn over, then it’s an air or fuel issue. If the starter doesn’t turn over then it’s likely the contact points inside the starter have worn down. If the starter cranks but is weak then it could be a bad battery or bad alternator not charging the battery.
@@DIYJeff No, if the engine does not turn over but the starter cranks, then it is because the starter does not engage the flywheel.
If the engine turns over but doesn't start, THEN it's the ignition, air/fuel, compression or a million other things.
@@gsp911, yes, you are correct. I went back and looked at the way I worded my response and it was wrong. I agree with everything you stated.
ummm, if your armature has those grooves in it, that's NOT wear... that's factory BALANCING. Your NOT going to find a new one that doesn't have those grooves
Was just going to say this
7:24 Those grooves were made by the manufacturer for the purpose of balancing the shaft.
Do not spread falsehoods if you do not know the subject in depth.
what i learned from this video is to just buy a new starter
Can't you just use a socket on the brushes...this way they are all pushed out of the way and when you seat it back together simply remove the socket out of the way.
@carlnikolov, great tip. I will try that next time.
@@DIYJeff happy to help.
So say rebuild the brushes you didn't replace just copper coated parts y not
THE GROOVES ARE FOR BALANCING,🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
7:35 It's for balancing, wtf... 😂
Those are four BRUSHES, not BUSHINGS….
@WiekingderViking, you are correct, thank you for pointing that out.
My name Jeff...(sorry I had to)