I appreciate a can-do attitude, but I am concerned whether many people are taking the conditions this year as seriously as they should. Potential hikers should be wary of both alarmism or false optimism when considering whether to hike this year. But the fact is, we are on track for either the largest snowpack on record _ever_ , or the 2nd largest. Definitely on track to surpass 1982-83. That means _nobody_ hiking or advising hikers will have experienced levels of snow and runoff this high. I don’t consider myself an alarmist, and I’ve been hiking in the backcountry of the Sierras and Cascades for decades, having grown up here. I’m also a former Marine, and generally believe that people can do much more than they think they can with a proper mix of courage, fortitude, and preparation. But I’ll make a grim prediction that there will be a record number of both deaths and rescue searches on the PCT this year. The stream crossings may even be totally impassible, making a continuous nobo thru-hike impossible. Certainly many deaths and rescue calls will be inexperienced hikers, but even the most experienced thru-hikers can get in over their head. Here’s the sad but instructive story of “Otter”, a multi-Triple Crown thru-hiker who died on the CDT in New Mexico when snow and cold got the better of him: ua-cam.com/video/cajFMKgOUZc/v-deo.html . In general, keeping the option of backing off and returning the way you came can be a good idea, but as Otter’s case shows, that isn’t always an option, especially when exhaustion and hypothermia become factors. And smart people _will_ die this year attempting stream crossings with record high flows, even after scouting for optimal crossing points and using proper technique. If I were planning a thru-hike of the PCT this year, I’d seriously consider postponing a year. I know that can be hard to bring yourself to, after investing time and money prepping, and mentally preparing yourself. I’ve heard it called “go fever”, the temptation to stay on a course when you’ve made a decision, even when conditions change. You usually hear this term after something bad happens, but it is something that the military teaches you to be mindful of when assessing your own mission prep, even in a highly goal-oriented culture. A corollary to “Go Fever” can be the “sunk cost fallacy”, a part of human nature that casinos rely on: the feeling that you need to keep going due to money already spent. Fortunately, any gear purchased, and money and time invested can be applied to hiking next to year. As to any fees that can’t be refunded, ask yourself how much you’d pay to get out of a fatal situation? As to perceived social pressure, it would be very tragic to let any fear of what friends or family might think sway your decision. They would surely want you to evaluate the conditions and make a rational choice for yourself. Everyone who goes into the wilderness needs to give themselves permission to cancel, postpone, or back out from time to time. You can always hike next year, but not if you die due to sticking to a schedule. One last but not least consideration should be enjoyment of the experience. Some people take enjoyment from pushing themselves to the limit and facing a dangerous challenge. But I believe for most people, the trail itself is challenge enough. Ask yourself if the most challenging and dangerous year hiking the PCT, perhaps ever, sounds _fun_ to you. Because if it isn’t fun, why do it? Especially when being much much more miserable than the misery typical thru-hike might mean the difference between completing the trail, and having done something that is a true accomplishment any year you do it, and increasing the risk you drop out and not having that experience. Or, just plain enjoying the experience more, having a better time and better memories. That is something you should ask yourself when deciding whether to hike this year or next.
Never heard the term “Go Fever”, but it is apt. Experienced it myself before, although not in a situation that was potentially fatal. I could see this happening quite easily without full awareness of it… especially if hiking solo.
It is very important to remove crampons or microspikes *before* you glissade down a steep slope. All it takes is a little catch of a spike on a bit of crunchy ice or a rock and the next thing you know you either have a twisted leg joint or you're tumbling head over heels. Accidents like those can be found throughout records like the Mountaineers "Accidents in North American Mountaineering", an annual report with analyses. If you're about to glissade on your butt, take off those spikes!
It's funny how many experts have made going down a snowy slope so complicated. Use your own senses based on current conditions externally and internally to determine how to descend. There is NO TEXTBOOK to your brain and current conditions. Just think.
I live near where PCT hikers call, “Kennedy Meadows North.” They just declared our county, Tuolumne, a disaster due to the snow. It’s insane this year. I frankly, am over it and already looking at other areas in the US to backpack/camp this summer because I don’t think my backyard is going to be too accessible this year as I am not a mountaineer and don’t plan to become one. iF the snow melts enough to open the high country trails it will be mosquito hell. I appreciate this video and hope that the 2023 hikers this year will take your and others’ advise about the extra gear, etc. There’s no one in recent history that can fully understand this snowpack. Am told, so far, it has been 53 years since the Sierra saw this much snow. Wouldn’t it be great if you could find someone who hiked the PCT 53 years ago and interview them?
53 years ago would be me. I was twelve years old, and my grandpa and I had been planning a hike from Tahoe to Yosemite for an entire year. The snow in Carson City was 6 foot deep. 14 foot in the drifts. Took us a week to dig out, with me, my older brother, and two uncles working at it. We were both stubborn fools, so we got about a mile from the trailhead before we turned around due to chest deep (on me) powder with no crust. We tried several times, but couldn’t even reach the PCT until mid July and the passes were still impassable into August. You will be able to camp in low elevations, but don’t plan on doing much hiking in the higher ones. Some of the passes are over 12 or 13k, and will have heavy snowpack on the northern slopes all year. Normally crossable fords will be raging torrents until late in the year. By the time you can hike it, it will be too late in the year to make any progress. Winter in the high Sierras frequently comes in in early September and with no warning. It is no joke. Unless you can handle an early season blizzard you shouldn’t be up there after late August. It hasn’t been that way lately, but we have been in a twenty year drought. That might be over now, or it could be just one year of the weather from the old days.
I fell through a hole in the snow pack, down about 10 ft. My teammates were ahead of me, out of earshot, on our way to Crown Point in Yosemite. Fortunately, there was a way to climb out, but it was a close call. Stay in groups on deep snow, rope up if it gets bad.
They just closed the entire San Jacinto wilderness back country trails (and the PCT) due to higher than ever snow levels. It's CrAzY out here in Califoree. I loved the picture of Perk coming out of the water with his hat on. Dixie proved on the PCT that a light waterproof pack is a good flotation device. Unclipping the pack came from the days of big 50 pound packs that could drag you down and drown you.
Couldn’t pass this video up without watching. Got a smile stuck on my face now, Dixie! This is invaluable information here. For anyone planning on going through the Sierra this year, study those who have gone through, and ignore those with more advice than experience… and sometimes it’s damn hard to tell the difference.
I don't think enough people understand the shear scale of the snow pack this year. We are talking hundreds of miles of snow on the pct that will be there through late july at this point. This will invetibly delay you by weeks, putting you at risk of being caught in some early fall storms in the north cascades. Always use proper risk assesment.
Most important piece of gear you need is common sense. Don’t let someone try to convince you to do something your not comfortable with. Pull local permits and hike when it’s best for you! This year is going to be difficult in the Sierra-Nevada range. Be safe and have fun!
I worry this year's hikers aren't considering how dangerous the water crossings are going to get. Your experience with that was one of the first things I thought about!
Crampons have 2 points on the front that micro spikes don’t have and that makes them better for climbing on snow. Creeks rise as much as 2 feet in water level during the afternoon as opposed to early early morning.
Two points. Crampons are much safer on ice. I had an experience crossing a river where my buoyant pack pushed my head under water when I had my pack straps done up. It was almost still water but was deeper than anticipated and my feet didn't touch the bottom. Lucky I was strong enough to roll sideways and get out of that situation. When you are flailing about trying to breathe, it can be hard to find the straps to undo your pack. And the buoyancy of the pack doesn't help.
The Sierra has (practically) no glaciers. In a normal year the snow will melt completely during the summer, so no thick ice can build up, like in the Alps, or Rockies in the North.
I am in the “unclip and loosen straps” camp when stream crossing. I’ve done my share of drown-proofing training in the military and it is reckless hubris to think you can successfully separate from your pack when tumbling in high flowing water.
@@Henning_Rech Here in New Zealand patches of snow thaw slightly during the day and then freeze overnight. When that happens time after time it gets really icy and can be super dangerous. Particularly if you are wearing majorly flexible runners with spikes.
@@gjcoop5625 Yes, snows behaves differently in various parts of the world. In the Sierra we do not talk about patches, but real snowpack one or several m high. It is typically quite wet and slushy in early summer, melting from the bottom (warmer rock ground creating underground streams). The top has sun cups up to 0.5 m deep, and the surface layer (one to few cm) gets frozen (but not real ice) in the night, and becomes slushy again during the morning. You should walk there early with traction devices that ensure grip into the frozen layer, or just in arbitrary shoes where the terrain is flat, and/or a solid boot track exists. In the afternoon (or even before noon) it will happen more and more often that this surface layer does not carry your weight anymore, and your foot and leg fully disappear in the slushy snow ("post holing"). Then it is time to stop and wait for the next morning. Preferably start before sunrise. Some ice on the ground can happen everywhere, just avoid it by going around.
@@Henning_Rech Snow can last on the north faces of passes well into the summer, especially in a high snow year. I sectioned the PCT in June of 2004 (Kennedy Meadow to Tuolumne Meadow), and had snow on every pass north of Guyot. I was able to plunge-step my way down all but Mather, as I was usually on them late in the morning. I hit Mather about 9am and it was iced-over snow 75% of the slope. Snow melts during the day, and freezes overnight if cold enough.
I spent a year in the Canadian Arctic in the 90s and promptly got irreparable UV damage in my eyes from the glare off the snow. From that point forward I couldn't see shades of blue or green on black. I was in computer school and back then the monitors were green-on-black and it was all a blur to me. In Toronto at night I could see the red Scotiabank light bright and crystal clear but the blue Bank of Montreal skyscraper was a complete blur. Eye doctor told me this is not fixable. PROTECT YOUR VISION!!!
On a raging river crossing with skinny sketch logs to use, we camped and crossed in the morning. It froze up above in the night, and the flow was far, far less. If it hadn't been adequately slower, we consulted maps, and there was a way to backtrack, reroute, and go over bridge.
Thank you for posting this Dixie. There has been a lot of negativity on the Facebook pages recently about the snow pack and not enough positive education/information on how it CAN be done. I appreciate your down to earth, non fear mongering approach to this subject. I start the pct in April, I have snow experience and river crossing experience so I have some confidence I can do this, but like I said, all the negativity and the “you better all just flip” comments were really getting me down and making me doubt myself and my abilities. Like you, I want to go in an assess for myself. I hope I have a good group of people with me when the time comes! (Projecting for early June Sierra entry)
Unless there is a serious warming trend shortly, it will be very difficult to traverse the Mt San Jancinto portion or the trail that early. Not that it can't be done, but it will be some serious alpine trekking.
@@christopherhaak9824 this part of a trail is closed now due to snow conditions, so will see when i get there, i may need to skip and I am ok with that :)
Can't believe it was that long ago already. Wow! Followed that journey and all your others. Love you Dixie and coming along on your journeys vicariously.. You were my first hiker to follow on UA-cam on your AT hike. Now I follow many people though I can't really get out to do a longer trail currently at my age and situation. Got all my gear and hope n pray to get out there one of these days. 62 and semi retired and hard to find the time and find a way to leave for a couple weeks or more with my animals and situation. Never say never... Looking forward to your upcoming adventures. Baby steps for me! All the best to you! You rock!
All good points to think about. The Sierras this year will be brutal. Most passes have over 30 feet and it continues to snow. The runoff will be raging until late August. Be very careful if you still plan to venture back in there……
I went to Sugar Bowl Ski Resort today. The PCT passes right through there. I hiked that section last August 😊. I had a 10-12 mile water carry at that time with temps in low to mid 80s. It was tough for this 62 year old. There was solitude and incredible beauty though. Today there was 10 to 15 feet of snow! 😆. Great alpine ski day!!
Good timing, we are slammed out here in the West and the first PCT hikers for the year are starting. For PCTers, Restless Kiwi also made regular youtube videos of her 2019 trek.
As a fairly experienced mountaineer, I would recommend through hikers go for a slightly longer ax. Also, I do not suggest you use a leash. Your ax ALWAYS goes in your up hill hand and if you are switching back and forth as you climb a snow slope, you need to switch the ax from one hand to the other. If you have a leash, you have to take it off one wrist and put in on the other, even if it is only for a few meters. With no leash, switching hands is quick and easy. And with respect to water crossings, the flow is low in the early morning and high in the late afternoon. So if you come to a water crossing in the afternoon and it looks tough, make camp and wait for morning; it might be better then. And while you camp, you can explore up stream and down stream to see if there is a better place. Just camp a bit away from the water so you don't have to move camp in the middle of the night when the maximum flow arrives.
Getting excited for backpacking the high sierra this late spring/early summer. Going to be beautiful. A few years ago when heading to banner peak via N. Glacier Pass (early june), I didn't apply enough sunscreen and got burnt; a friend in our group scorched his retina - watering eyes, up all night in pain, and had blurred vision for a couple days. He was tough and didn't complain. Got him special eye drops in a Mammoth pharmacy. Since we did a JMT/PCT loop out of Agnes Meadow, we chatted w/ tons of thru hikers...those heading north were battle tested, and couldn't wait to get over Donahue Pass. I'm not sure if reds meadow was open yet? We parked at minaret vista since the road was still closed. Shuttle bus started running on our exit day. Good luck to all you thru hikers!
All good advice. I've just bought a set of micro-spikes but haven't used them yet so I'll be interested to see how they compare to my old crampons and my tiny instep crampons. As for river crossings - I fell in once with my pack strapped on and the panic of icy cold water means loosening the straps is a lot harder than you think it will be! When you are face down underwater and a 30lb pack holding you there, it's no fun, so I always unbuckle now. The same incident also put me off down sleeping bags in winter!
Huuuuuge shout to Daniel Winsor. His clips on his UA-cam from 2017 are very good for perceiving your judgement for going out or not. My wife and I are starting first week of April and hope to be in there by early/mid May
Dixie, I so remember your 2017 PCT passage via your videos. Your message is very timely and spot on. I pray folks will remain in the present and realism of 2023's snow pack and snow melt! Thanks for your influence and guidance to all of us.
Thank you for taking the time to put this together Dixie! I know a lot of us PCT hikers this year are anxious about what's ahead for us and this advice is golden right now! I need to swap out my microspikes for crampons, and my ice axe is too short so that needs to be replaced. I may add snow gaiters to protect my lower legs also. Going to be an interesting year for sure! 🌼Condor
I'm with you, gonna be interesting for sure. I'm planning on an early june entrance. Microspikes or crampons is the question. A mountaineer guy on reddit told me hes using microspikes. My brother is pretty insistent I use crampons. Most crampons need super stiff boots or they'll break. I'd like to stick with trail runners for the river crossings though. Tough call. Any one reading this, any advice is appreciated
@@nelsondln Ned Tibbets (mountaineer instructor and SAR, over 40 years) and Restless Kiwi (2019 hiker on UA-cam) are my inspirations for using crampons. They make some for trail runners and diff sized teeth. I'm still researching though but they seem to give better traction on steep icy slopes. I'm just a sponge right now.
@@nelsondln I tried the Kathoola KTS crampons with Topo trailrunners last year, and can't complain. They use kind of a basket of belts to fix the front of your shoe, which works better with soft shoes than the usual brackets. But though being in the Sierra in early June I used them for 2 short spots only, so cannot tell about the wear and tear they may cause to the shoes on longer stretches.
@@TikiBirdTracy I keep finding places where people say they make crampons that work well with trail runners, but no one ever says what they are. After doing a bunch of research I can't really find anything that is made specifically for trail runners other than micro spikes. Do you have any brand or model suggestions?
Hey, did it last year. Here's some resources you should check out: Restless Kiwi on YT has a great Sierra series in 2019 about the logistics in a high snow year and snow travel in general. Andrew Skurka has a spreadsheet about Sierra river crossings I think. Watch the PCT Water report/Sierra Webinar of 2017. Before that San Jacinto Jon (san jacinto snow report on YT) has videos on current conditions. Read Farout comments, make sure it's updated and get a group together in KM of reliable people. Happy trails!
This is great Dixie, thank you! Like others have said, there has been so much negativity in regards to the snow that for those of us going in this year, it feels impossible. Hearing non-biased advice on what you can do to manage it is so much more helpful
Microspikes are fine for walking down the driveway or other flat surface. On icy slopes they are worse than nothing at all. They'll just pull right off if you slip or fall, yet they might make you think you can go places you shouldn't. A leash on my ice axe literally saved my life while climbing Mt. Shasta.
@@nelsondln I think most people take microspikes because they are lighter. I get it; I don't like adding weight to my pack either. I just know from my own experience that microspikes will easily detach from your shoes. I heard last year about crampons that didn't require boots, but I've never used them and would be wary of spiking my foot (I've got a couple of scrapes on my mountaineering boots from misplaced steps when tired and unbalanced). When I see some of the steep chutes in the Sierra, I wouldn't want to cross them with microspikes. It's a personal decision, just be aware that no professional or manufacturer that I've ever read or heard thinks you should wear microspikes on slopes greater than 15%. To clarify, when I say see, I don't mean just on UA-cam; the Sierra is one of my favorite places to hike.
I did the PCT in a high snow level year. I've experience with both crampons and micro spikes. Micro spikes would have been the best option for almost all the hiking I did on snow. Did a flip flop though because of time constraints so didn't go through the Sierras with a lot of snow, but there was snow almost everywhere on the trail and lots of hiking on snow.
I live in Visalia (CA) on the west side of the Sierra's very close to the entrance to Sequoia National Park in Three Rivers, CA. I am also close to Kings Canyon NP and Yosemite NP is farther but still a reasonable drive. Kernville/Lake Isabella area is also possible. It's going to be a wild year for water crossings and snow bridges in the High Sierra. After today's storms, we are NOT dealing with a High Water Year, but with an Historic Water Year. It continues to rain heavily as I type. The permitting agencies need to be flexible with start times and flip flops and route deviations or they will get people killed. Hikers need to be flexible also. A few drownings and the Park Service will close trails. Current local National Park leadership is pretty risk adverse. You are as much an annoyance as a customer. Go with a group is good advice this year (and I was a dedicated solo hiker). Be careful though, Group Over-confidence can also be dangerous. Use of ropes for stream crossings can go badly in many different ways. If you need to bail off trail to the west, I may be able to help with pick-up and re-positioning (Currently retired). seqchs@sbcglobal.net. Start subject header with PCT.
Yeah, very crazy winter over here on the west coast this year. Snow in the Santa Monica mountains, Big Bear got completely isolated up in the San Bernardinos, and a bunch of roads are closed from rockfall and erosion in the Padres. Stay safe out there.
I’m an old man from northern Canada. Fished and hiked my whole life, all over the world. Cross rivers with a buddy, arms around each other’s shoulders. Try it, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Dixie, great video and info. I like to keep my pack cinched tight during river crossings as well. Todays packs are lighter and more buoyant than the packs of my past. Also may I add remove the tip covers of your ice axe when using it. The covers make it harder to get the bite you need to stop your slide.
Thanks Dixie! A good video with good advice, as always. Writing just to endorse you’re attaching your InReach device to your person and to add a little to those who might read this. For potential rescue purposes I carry an InReach Mini, a whistle and a small mirror (bright clothing also is good). I carry these on my person, not on/in my pack: I stop for lunch, take off my pack, walk down to the stream for water and fall in the stream or other similar scenarios.
I'm starting the PCT on March 18th, pretty intimidated, but going with a group is the #1 rule I'm following and pushing for others to follow, especially with those river crossings. I'm actually going with a whippet rather than an ice axe after much deliberation. But that's another option for people recommended by snow hiking instructors. Flip flopping is definitely a bit tricky considering the long permit from the PCTA and the way local permits work there.
There are some great videos on UA-cam about the different techniques for crossing swollen rivers. Watch them all. Decide what makes sense to you. This year especially. Blessings, smiles.
Don't worry too much about the permit. Be save first. The only time I was checked was the Sierra and just north of Echo lake. Just tell them you started when you had to and walked north always. If you're unusually late, tell them you had to wait out snow due to injury. Do what you have to do this year. The reason for the permits is overuse of trail which won't be a problem this year.
I will be 2 weeks behind you and also bought a whippet. I tested self arrest (in mild conditions) and seems to work fine. At least we will have it at hand where others have the ice axe in there backpack at the wrong moment
I thought you were using some hiker jargon and were saying "ass axe" at first! I know what crampons are lol,and I would have guessed what an ice axe is eventually! I envy you and your compatriots who are able to complete these hikes,I can only really fly to somewhere in the Southwest,Montana,or PNW and rent a vehicle and hike a selection of 2 hour or half day hikes.I try to cover too much new ground each trip,and have been just about everywhere out west-from Big Bend to Glacier,and as far west as The North Cascades. Currently I am thinking about taking a quick trip to southern Arizona and hiking around Mount Lemon and other high peaks around Tucson. I really want to get back to Montana or the Cascades but I have to wait till the snow subsidies-which is still months away. I work in the service industry and am an unofficial caregiver for elderly parents,so I can't get out for more than a few days at a time. And I live in the New Orleans area,no mountains anywhere near me hence me having to fly places. Thank you so much for making these videos. You are doing a great service by helping educate people and by highlighting these magnificent places and the cool people drawn to them.
+1 for InReach. So nice to be able to send a message to the wife at the end of every day no matter where I am. Keeps her from worrying. Just make sure it's always somewhere you can reach it easily even if you've taken a bad fall - meaning either arm should be able to get at it EASILY - no stretching or twisting your back necessary. If you can't get at it when you need it, it can't save you, and you're not going to have any warning before you need it.
Great video! I would add that bringing a piece of wire is worth it if the micro spikes break and I would personally bring another pair of sunglasses in case the others get lost or whatnot. Also a mylar emergency blanket (bivy is better: SOL emergency bivy) is worth it in case your down quilt gets wet from a river crossing. Of course, that's a worst case scenario. A proper pack liner is worth it. You mentioned safety in numbers and especially at river crossings this is KEY. Thanks Dixie!
Hiking on powder snow is pretty much impossible you sink in so much with each step that it takes too much energy and the avalache risk is high. The good news is that the strong spring sun quickly consolidates the powder into spring snow that will support you're weight if you start early in the day when the snow is more fozen. gentle to moderate slopes are fine but some of the steeper slopes are dangerous with alot of snow if you start to slide you will slide a long ways. People assume that an ice axe will stop you but you need to know how to use that ice axe, you immediately plunge the axe in hard almost like you are falling on the axe, if you don't try to stop right away you build up to much speed the axe is useless. Crampons are essential for climbing steeper snow slopes. Normally little creeks will be dangerous raging rivers as the melt sets in. in these cooil wet years hiking in Aril and May is risky you might be stuck in a blizzard for a few days and have to hunker down. All this being said the snow covered mountains can be really beautiful I've enjoyed spring hiking in the sierra but you have tro be prepared.
Completely agree with you on the hip belt thing. I don't use a hip belt generally, but have a web hip belt strap that I use only when I'm doing river crossings, and sometimes on sketchy snowy areas. It keeps my pack firmly on, and helps with balance if I need to bend quickly to get my balance.
Update from this mornings headline in the Palm Springs Newspaper: Pacific Crest Trail hikers told to avoid San Jacinto Mountains during winter storm aftermath.
Update: Massive and continuous snowfall in the Sierra since my update 4 days ago and forecasted to continue for the next 7 days. PCT/JMT through the parks (Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Yosemite) is going to be impassable until much later in the season. Likely that Tuolumne Meadows, will never be opened by the Park as in exceptionally high water years it much more of a swamp than a lake and heavy hiker use will tear it up. Delay your start, be flexible and creative, or take a working vacation in the Owens Valley for a few weeks.
People starting the Arizona trail anytime soon are gonna be having a hard time. There's still 5-6+ feet of snow on the trail at higher elevations with more on the way.
Did you say "noseholes?" You are funny sometimes, Dixie! Great info. I bailed on the JMT in 2019, another high snow year. I had altitude sickness and the snowy flooded conditions just didn't help me have a good time. In 2021, the conditions were sooooo different! No snow, and easy peasy.
People do mixed climbing on rock and ice without taking off their crampons to protect the "little teeth" - a good pair of crampons is made of much stouter steel than that found in micro-spikes.
The snow this year looks like it could be a record breaker, and the trails may be opening a little later than usual I think! Not that I know much about the Sierra Mountains, but there's a lot of snow up there from what I've seen on the news!
Such fantastic advice!!! This year will be even more extreme... this late cold deep snow this year will take a very long time to melt and run off. The run offs will be quite the stream! Planning some trips to the High Sierra this year, there will be almost no snowless season. Skipping the High Sierras: Just make sure you still see this beautiful section another time
I hike in the Adirondack mountains in upstate NY. I hike one particular mountain “ampersand mountain,” 3 or 4 times a week. Either I wear micro spikes or snow shoes. All depends. Last night we got a foot of snow. So tomorrow and the next week or so, I’ll be wearing snow shoes. But things will be changing quickly. We are in March now and the weather will be getting warmer and probably some rainy snow. The trail will turn into glare ice. So I’ll be wearing micro spikes. I’d rather have conditions wear I need to wear micro spikes, rather than snow shoes. But with lots of snow means I can slide down the mountain on my buttocks. When it is icy, sliding is a no go. You get going way to fast, almost at free fall speed, and there are too many rocks and trees that will “break” your fall and your neck. The deep snow slows you down and covers the rocks, which is good for knees and legs. I use trekking poles in all conditions. In winter I use two poles, and one in the summer. So I cannot carry an ice axe. Bottom line in the Adirondacks trekking poles are more useful than an ice axe. I carry a rope and a grappling hook to get up a few real steep ice spots. What I worry about the most about winter hiking is breaking a leg or hitting your head from a slip and fall, and being wet from the elements and sweat. Hypothermia is probably the biggest danger. Just north of the Adirondack mountains is the white mountains in New Hampshire. Mount Washington two weeks ago with the wind chill was 100 degrees below zero with the windchill factor. The coldest place in the United States is on top of mount Washington. Making a fire on top of the north east mountains would be practically impossible in the dead of winter. Nothing but green wet evergreen 🌲 trees. Nothing dry in the three feet of snow. However, there are some mountains in the “high peaks” in the Adirondacks that you need crampons and an ice axe is useful.
If you are hiking the PCT in 2023 you are going to need CRAMPONS in the High Sierra. To avoid postholing you should camp high so you can cross the summit early in the day while the snow is still frozen on the downside. While glissading is a heck of a lot of fun it is a very easy way to get injured seriously and you could end up having to quit the trail. As most thru hikers know, the best time to ford a river is early in the morning.
@@Homemadewanderlustofficial HI, I'm not sure if I'm doing this right. I've never done this before. Thanks for replying to my comment. I have enjoyed watching your videos.
Sobo may be better - WA has just average snow pack. You may start then in early July, and be in the Sierra in September when the snow pack is nearly gone.
I was checking the AZT and the Huchucha Mountains in Arizona near the southern terminus of the AZT ( Coronado NF ) had higher than normal snow pack too!
The ice pack in echo lake was 118” when I went. Perfectly fine with snowshoes and gaiters. However, this recent storm has turned moderate avalanche danger to considerate and the snow pack is so high it’s unmanageable. I live locally to Tahoe. It won’t be home able for another month IF the storms stop this week.
I was snow backpacking southern California in January even before the recent storms. I highly recommend *crampons* for snow hiking fitted to the appropriate boots. You need them fitted. If they fall off, they do no good...I know it's out of the question for most thru hikers but even snow shoes perform well in traveling through snow too. The most important thing is safety. These two are actually made for snow travel. Microspikes fail and sink into snow quite easily. They are not made for a lot of snow conditions. They are easy to slip in. Real ice axe self-arresting training via a Snow Travel Class can save your life if you slip. There is nothing to break a fall if you do not properly self-arrest other than trees and rocks. There have been deaths this year even from very experienced winter mountain climbers. Getting adequate training is a must and I agree on traveling with groups. Snow Travel takes longer and is more tiring. You also cannot see the trail. Footprints can lead away from the trail. Use several forms of navigation. It's okay to cut entire sections of the trail out of your itinerary if you do not have experience.
@Henning Rech Yes, my comment is in reference to the deep snow that is present right now. I was in the snow before the storms in Southern California...Now there is more snow and microspikes didn't provide any traction in the conditions previous to the storms. It is still winter. My comment is not related to summer PCT travel at all.
Re: cutting sections out, where else would hikers go, though? In June, isn't there snow all the way to Canada still? Is there a safer nearby trail you'd recommend?
Yep, as soon as I started hearing about the crazy amount of snow hitting the Sierra Nevada’s , I thought about your epic PCT hike, Dixie, and some of those super scary river crossings you did. They still give me the shivers. 🫣
Thanks for the great info Question 1. When and where did you start to carry you ice ax 2. When an where to start to carry bear spray 3. Did you send them to Kennedy Meadows? Thank you, a.k.a. Padre
1. depends on the snow situation. In an average snow year, KM would be a good choice. This year maybe San Jacinto. 2. never - neither needed (no Grizzlies) nor allowed in NPs
I am a confirmed trekking poles user, but I don't understand the recommendation to use a trekking pole in the hand not carrying the ice ax. In case of self-arrest do you discard the trekking pole? Or are you left with a trekking pole on it's strap flailing around you as you execute the self arrest? It might feel more secure walking along, but in case of an actual slip it seems to me it could cause more problems than it solves. Anyone with exprience want to comment? I do have ice ax and self arrest experience (decades ago) but I've never tried using both an ax and a trekking pole. Would love to hear feedback. I've mulled this over many times.
Dixie, what were your sierra dates? This year's snowpack may be very similar to 2017, I've watched your videos to prepare for what it might be like but I'd like to know what date you went in to get a better idea. Thanks for the video!
average sierra snowpack snow water equivalent: 2017 (Apr 1): 45.7" 2023 (Mar 11): 51.3" Pretty solid forecast at this point suggesting at least another 10" of snow water equivalent being added this year by Apr 1, so it will be 30-40% higher than 2017
This has nothing to do with snow. I am curious about your morning coffee and instant breakfast combination can you tell me how you mix it up to taste good i am a terrible cook i would appreciate, it big fan
I love you ( did the camino Frances in 2021 fall at 72 yrs solo ) but took me ,from the Northeast, to understand many repeats ,what you were talking about aasax, aasax . we say ice ax. you are my champion and who doesn't love an engineer girl ! ps my name is Michael but I'm a women also
You can get local permits or ignore the rules, start later and tell the rangers you waited out weather in town for some weeks. All better options than risking your life due to a system that was implemented to reduce impact on the trail - which is no concern this year.
@@christopherhaak9824 It is in fact easy to hike on local permits. Cleveland NF: use campsites like Lake Morena, then you do not need an overnight permit. San Jacinto: cannot be hiked in the moment anyway. Sierra: get a non-quota permit from Iny NF (KM to Sonora). And for the rest, a PCTA permit from Sonora pass to Canada, starting in June or July.
I live in Northern California and I have hiked sections of the PCT. There is only one thing you need to know about the PCT in Northern California this year DON’T DO IT!
Hey just met you yesterday out by springer mountain. Names (Wallstreet), i was with (Nutz & Rooster). Might see ya on the way back to springer from Unicoi Gap. Happy Trails!
This year’s hikers better prepare for a cold, snowy SoCal too. Mike’s Place at mile 127 had nearly three feet of snow as of yesterday. Thinking of SoCal as “the desert” and thinking they’ll be fine in shorts could find themselves in a bad place.
Recently with all the snow the AZT has received their been several hiker that failed to heed warning and went out to hike in a blizzard condition cause the theme being they are going to hike their own hike and not listen to locals. Several air rescues where needed and atleast one person suffered frost bite. I think the through hiker groups tend to embrace the thinking warning be dammed it my hike. Yell I seen local thst maintain the trail tell out of towner to wait a day and give the trail time to dry out. But instead they march on cause of the rat race they are in and damage the trail. Heck last year one guy had to be rescued twice cause he wanted to due the azt and PCT in the same year
It is not about blizzards which can occur in the Sierra typically until mid May. Also not about cold. But about days in June and July, with temps maybe in the 70s, but tremendous amount of snow and water.
I appreciate a can-do attitude, but I am concerned whether many people are taking the conditions this year as seriously as they should. Potential hikers should be wary of both alarmism or false optimism when considering whether to hike this year. But the fact is, we are on track for either the largest snowpack on record _ever_ , or the 2nd largest. Definitely on track to surpass 1982-83. That means _nobody_ hiking or advising hikers will have experienced levels of snow and runoff this high. I don’t consider myself an alarmist, and I’ve been hiking in the backcountry of the Sierras and Cascades for decades, having grown up here. I’m also a former Marine, and generally believe that people can do much more than they think they can with a proper mix of courage, fortitude, and preparation. But I’ll make a grim prediction that there will be a record number of both deaths and rescue searches on the PCT this year. The stream crossings may even be totally impassible, making a continuous nobo thru-hike impossible. Certainly many deaths and rescue calls will be inexperienced hikers, but even the most experienced thru-hikers can get in over their head. Here’s the sad but instructive story of “Otter”, a multi-Triple Crown thru-hiker who died on the CDT in New Mexico when snow and cold got the better of him: ua-cam.com/video/cajFMKgOUZc/v-deo.html . In general, keeping the option of backing off and returning the way you came can be a good idea, but as Otter’s case shows, that isn’t always an option, especially when exhaustion and hypothermia become factors. And smart people _will_ die this year attempting stream crossings with record high flows, even after scouting for optimal crossing points and using proper technique.
If I were planning a thru-hike of the PCT this year, I’d seriously consider postponing a year. I know that can be hard to bring yourself to, after investing time and money prepping, and mentally preparing yourself. I’ve heard it called “go fever”, the temptation to stay on a course when you’ve made a decision, even when conditions change. You usually hear this term after something bad happens, but it is something that the military teaches you to be mindful of when assessing your own mission prep, even in a highly goal-oriented culture.
A corollary to “Go Fever” can be the “sunk cost fallacy”, a part of human nature that casinos rely on: the feeling that you need to keep going due to money already spent. Fortunately, any gear purchased, and money and time invested can be applied to hiking next to year. As to any fees that can’t be refunded, ask yourself how much you’d pay to get out of a fatal situation?
As to perceived social pressure, it would be very tragic to let any fear of what friends or family might think sway your decision. They would surely want you to evaluate the conditions and make a rational choice for yourself. Everyone who goes into the wilderness needs to give themselves permission to cancel, postpone, or back out from time to time. You can always hike next year, but not if you die due to sticking to a schedule.
One last but not least consideration should be enjoyment of the experience. Some people take enjoyment from pushing themselves to the limit and facing a dangerous challenge. But I believe for most people, the trail itself is challenge enough. Ask yourself if the most challenging and dangerous year hiking the PCT, perhaps ever, sounds _fun_ to you. Because if it isn’t fun, why do it? Especially when being much much more miserable than the misery typical thru-hike might mean the difference between completing the trail, and having done something that is a true accomplishment any year you do it, and increasing the risk you drop out and not having that experience. Or, just plain enjoying the experience more, having a better time and better memories. That is something you should ask yourself when deciding whether to hike this year or next.
I tend to agree with this.
Never heard the term “Go Fever”, but it is apt. Experienced it myself before, although not in a situation that was potentially fatal. I could see this happening quite easily without full awareness of it… especially if hiking solo.
It is very important to remove crampons or microspikes *before* you glissade down a steep slope. All it takes is a little catch of a spike on a bit of crunchy ice or a rock and the next thing you know you either have a twisted leg joint or you're tumbling head over heels. Accidents like those can be found throughout records like the Mountaineers "Accidents in North American Mountaineering", an annual report with analyses. If you're about to glissade on your butt, take off those spikes!
It's funny how many experts have made going down a snowy slope so complicated. Use your own senses based on current conditions externally and internally to determine how to descend. There is NO TEXTBOOK to your brain and current conditions. Just think.
@@Steve_Farwalker Ah, the fallacy of "common sense."
yeah, I could see a knee getting twisted rather easily that way.
Solid advice
Broke my leg similarly roller skating lol I don't doubt that's a shitty way to end your hike
I live near where PCT hikers call, “Kennedy Meadows North.” They just declared our county, Tuolumne, a disaster due to the snow. It’s insane this year. I frankly, am over it and already looking at other areas in the US to backpack/camp this summer because I don’t think my backyard is going to be too accessible this year as I am not a mountaineer and don’t plan to become one. iF the snow melts enough to open the high country trails it will be mosquito hell. I appreciate this video and hope that the 2023 hikers this year will take your and others’ advise about the extra gear, etc. There’s no one in recent history that can fully understand this snowpack. Am told, so far, it has been 53 years since the Sierra saw this much snow. Wouldn’t it be great if you could find someone who hiked the PCT 53 years ago and interview them?
I'm scheduled for Manter Meadow in mid-April. Will I be hiking in snow???
@@bobpadrick7718 yes
53 years ago would be me. I was twelve years old, and my grandpa and I had been planning a hike from Tahoe to Yosemite for an entire year. The snow in Carson City was 6 foot deep. 14 foot in the drifts. Took us a week to dig out, with me, my older brother, and two uncles working at it. We were both stubborn fools, so we got about a mile from the trailhead before we turned around due to chest deep (on me) powder with no crust. We tried several times, but couldn’t even reach the PCT until mid July and the passes were still impassable into August. You will be able to camp in low elevations, but don’t plan on doing much hiking in the higher ones. Some of the passes are over 12 or 13k, and will have heavy snowpack on the northern slopes all year. Normally crossable fords will be raging torrents until late in the year. By the time you can hike it, it will be too late in the year to make any progress. Winter in the high Sierras frequently comes in in early September and with no warning. It is no joke. Unless you can handle an early season blizzard you shouldn’t be up there after late August. It hasn’t been that way lately, but we have been in a twenty year drought. That might be over now, or it could be just one year of the weather from the old days.
Omg the mosquitoes! I didn’t even think about that but you’re absolutely right. They will be hell this year.
I fell through a hole in the snow pack, down about 10 ft. My teammates were ahead of me, out of earshot, on our way to Crown Point in Yosemite. Fortunately, there was a way to climb out, but it was a close call. Stay in groups on deep snow, rope up if it gets bad.
Yikes - glad you could climb out.
They just closed the entire San Jacinto wilderness back country trails (and the PCT) due to higher than ever snow levels. It's CrAzY out here in Califoree.
I loved the picture of Perk coming out of the water with his hat on.
Dixie proved on the PCT that a light waterproof pack is a good flotation device. Unclipping the pack came from the days of big 50 pound packs that could drag you down and drown you.
The main problem with the unclipped backpack can snag on the branches of the tree you've fallen off from. Always fall downstream if there's a choice.
Couldn’t pass this video up without watching. Got a smile stuck on my face now, Dixie!
This is invaluable information here. For anyone planning on going through the Sierra this year, study those who have gone through, and ignore those with more advice than experience… and sometimes it’s damn hard to tell the difference.
The issuse is..Dixie didn't even hike the PCT this year. So she actually doesn't know what the conditions actually are.
I don't think enough people understand the shear scale of the snow pack this year. We are talking hundreds of miles of snow on the pct that will be there through late july at this point. This will invetibly delay you by weeks, putting you at risk of being caught in some early fall storms in the north cascades. Always use proper risk assesment.
Most important piece of gear you need is common sense. Don’t let someone try to convince you to do something your not comfortable with.
Pull local permits and hike when it’s best for you! This year is going to be difficult in the Sierra-Nevada range. Be safe and have fun!
I worry this year's hikers aren't considering how dangerous the water crossings are going to get. Your experience with that was one of the first things I thought about!
Crampons have 2 points on the front that micro spikes don’t have and that makes them better for climbing on snow. Creeks rise as much as 2 feet in water level during the afternoon as opposed to early early morning.
Two points. Crampons are much safer on ice.
I had an experience crossing a river where my buoyant pack pushed my head under water when I had my pack straps done up. It was almost still water but was deeper than anticipated and my feet didn't touch the bottom. Lucky I was strong enough to roll sideways and get out of that situation. When you are flailing about trying to breathe, it can be hard to find the straps to undo your pack. And the buoyancy of the pack doesn't help.
The Sierra has (practically) no glaciers. In a normal year the snow will melt completely during the summer, so no thick ice can build up, like in the Alps, or Rockies in the North.
I am in the “unclip and loosen straps” camp when stream crossing. I’ve done my share of drown-proofing training in the military and it is reckless hubris to think you can successfully separate from your pack when tumbling in high flowing water.
@@Henning_Rech Here in New Zealand patches of snow thaw slightly during the day and then freeze overnight. When that happens time after time it gets really icy and can be super dangerous. Particularly if you are wearing majorly flexible runners with spikes.
@@gjcoop5625 Yes, snows behaves differently in various parts of the world. In the Sierra we do not talk about patches, but real snowpack one or several m high. It is typically quite wet and slushy in early summer, melting from the bottom (warmer rock ground creating underground streams). The top has sun cups up to 0.5 m deep, and the surface layer (one to few cm) gets frozen (but not real ice) in the night, and becomes slushy again during the morning. You should walk there early with traction devices that ensure grip into the frozen layer, or just in arbitrary shoes where the terrain is flat, and/or a solid boot track exists. In the afternoon (or even before noon) it will happen more and more often that this surface layer does not carry your weight anymore, and your foot and leg fully disappear in the slushy snow ("post holing"). Then it is time to stop and wait for the next morning. Preferably start before sunrise.
Some ice on the ground can happen everywhere, just avoid it by going around.
@@Henning_Rech Snow can last on the north faces of passes well into the summer, especially in a high snow year. I sectioned the PCT in June of 2004 (Kennedy Meadow to Tuolumne Meadow), and had snow on every pass north of Guyot. I was able to plunge-step my way down all but Mather, as I was usually on them late in the morning. I hit Mather about 9am and it was iced-over snow 75% of the slope. Snow melts during the day, and freezes overnight if cold enough.
I spent a year in the Canadian Arctic in the 90s and promptly got irreparable UV damage in my eyes from the glare off the snow. From that point forward I couldn't see shades of blue or green on black. I was in computer school and back then the monitors were green-on-black and it was all a blur to me. In Toronto at night I could see the red Scotiabank light bright and crystal clear but the blue Bank of Montreal skyscraper was a complete blur. Eye doctor told me this is not fixable. PROTECT YOUR VISION!!!
On a raging river crossing with skinny sketch logs to use, we camped and crossed in the morning. It froze up above in the night, and the flow was far, far less. If it hadn't been adequately slower, we consulted maps, and there was a way to backtrack, reroute, and go over bridge.
This snow we're getting here in CA is absolutely nuts! Stay safe, everyone thru hiking this year!
Thank you for posting this Dixie. There has been a lot of negativity on the Facebook pages recently about the snow pack and not enough positive education/information on how it CAN be done.
I appreciate your down to earth, non fear mongering approach to this subject.
I start the pct in April, I have snow experience and river crossing experience so I have some confidence I can do this, but like I said, all the negativity and the “you better all just flip” comments were really getting me down and making me doubt myself and my abilities.
Like you, I want to go in an assess for myself. I hope I have a good group of people with me when the time comes! (Projecting for early June Sierra entry)
Glad to see we are both getting some positivity from Dixie! I am hoping to enter the Sierra mid June. Maybe by a stroke of luck I will catch you!
@@bethhhrachel I am pretty sure you will catch me!! 😉. At the very least I hope you do! Lol! Would love to meet in person 😊
Debra when you get to Idyllwild, if you need a ride, contact me and I can help you out
@@sandyhancock2020 thank you!!! I will do that!!!
Thank you Dixie! I’m starting my PCT thru hike on 26th of March and I really needed to hear all of this! ❤
Happy Trails!
@@NealDahl Thank you!
Unless there is a serious warming trend shortly, it will be very difficult to traverse the Mt San Jancinto portion or the trail that early. Not that it can't be done, but it will be some serious alpine trekking.
@@christopherhaak9824 this part of a trail is closed now due to snow conditions, so will see when i get there, i may need to skip and I am ok with that :)
Can't believe it was that long ago already. Wow! Followed that journey and all your others. Love you Dixie and coming along on your journeys vicariously.. You were my first hiker to follow on UA-cam on your AT hike. Now I follow many people though I can't really get out to do a longer trail currently at my age and situation. Got all my gear and hope n pray to get out there one of these days. 62 and semi retired and hard to find the time and find a way to leave for a couple weeks or more with my animals and situation. Never say never... Looking forward to your upcoming adventures. Baby steps for me! All the best to you! You rock!
All good points to think about. The Sierras this year will be brutal. Most passes have over 30 feet and it continues to snow. The runoff will be raging until late August. Be very careful if you still plan to venture back in there……
I went to Sugar Bowl Ski Resort today. The PCT passes right through there. I hiked that section last August 😊. I had a 10-12 mile water carry at that time with temps in low to mid 80s. It was tough for this 62 year old. There was solitude and incredible beauty though. Today there was 10 to 15 feet of snow! 😆. Great alpine ski day!!
So Jealous! I live in the foothills above Chico and I simply can’t get up to Tahoe to ski for all the crazy weather.
Good timing, we are slammed out here in the West and the first PCT hikers for the year are starting. For PCTers, Restless Kiwi also made regular youtube videos of her 2019 trek.
I watched restless Kiwi. Good to watch her. She was something else.
Thank you Dixie, props for getting this info out there, and Prayers going up for safe passage for the Class of 2023.
As a fairly experienced mountaineer, I would recommend through hikers go for a slightly longer ax. Also, I do not suggest you use a leash. Your ax ALWAYS goes in your up hill hand and if you are switching back and forth as you climb a snow slope, you need to switch the ax from one hand to the other. If you have a leash, you have to take it off one wrist and put in on the other, even if it is only for a few meters. With no leash, switching hands is quick and easy. And with respect to water crossings, the flow is low in the early morning and high in the late afternoon. So if you come to a water crossing in the afternoon and it looks tough, make camp and wait for morning; it might be better then. And while you camp, you can explore up stream and down stream to see if there is a better place. Just camp a bit away from the water so you don't have to move camp in the middle of the night when the maximum flow arrives.
Getting excited for backpacking the high sierra this late spring/early summer. Going to be beautiful. A few years ago when heading to banner peak via N. Glacier Pass (early june), I didn't apply enough sunscreen and got burnt; a friend in our group scorched his retina - watering eyes, up all night in pain, and had blurred vision for a couple days. He was tough and didn't complain. Got him special eye drops in a Mammoth pharmacy. Since we did a JMT/PCT loop out of Agnes Meadow, we chatted w/ tons of thru hikers...those heading north were battle tested, and couldn't wait to get over Donahue Pass. I'm not sure if reds meadow was open yet? We parked at minaret vista since the road was still closed. Shuttle bus started running on our exit day. Good luck to all you thru hikers!
@HOMEMADEWONDERLUST lol
As one who had nostrils burned inside by a snowpack, i highly recommend packing a buff or a mask for such endeavors.
All good advice. I've just bought a set of micro-spikes but haven't used them yet so I'll be interested to see how they compare to my old crampons and my tiny instep crampons. As for river crossings - I fell in once with my pack strapped on and the panic of icy cold water means loosening the straps is a lot harder than you think it will be! When you are face down underwater and a 30lb pack holding you there, it's no fun, so I always unbuckle now. The same incident also put me off down sleeping bags in winter!
There was an avalanche on Mt San Jacinto today - there’s been that much snow!
Huuuuuge shout to Daniel Winsor. His clips on his UA-cam from 2017 are very good for perceiving your judgement for going out or not. My wife and I are starting first week of April and hope to be in there by early/mid May
Dixie, I so remember your 2017 PCT passage via your videos. Your message is very timely and spot on. I pray folks will remain in the present and realism of 2023's snow pack and snow melt! Thanks for your influence and guidance to all of us.
Thank you for taking the time to put this together Dixie! I know a lot of us PCT hikers this year are anxious about what's ahead for us and this advice is golden right now! I need to swap out my microspikes for crampons, and my ice axe is too short so that needs to be replaced. I may add snow gaiters to protect my lower legs also. Going to be an interesting year for sure! 🌼Condor
I'm with you, gonna be interesting for sure. I'm planning on an early june entrance.
Microspikes or crampons is the question. A mountaineer guy on reddit told me hes using microspikes. My brother is pretty insistent I use crampons. Most crampons need super stiff boots or they'll break. I'd like to stick with trail runners for the river crossings though. Tough call. Any one reading this, any advice is appreciated
@@nelsondln Ned Tibbets (mountaineer instructor and SAR, over 40 years) and Restless Kiwi (2019 hiker on UA-cam) are my inspirations for using crampons. They make some for trail runners and diff sized teeth. I'm still researching though but they seem to give better traction on steep icy slopes. I'm just a sponge right now.
@@TikiBirdTracy thanks for the info! I feel you on being a sponge, thru hike prep is intense. See ya out there! 🤙
@@nelsondln I tried the Kathoola KTS crampons with Topo trailrunners last year, and can't complain. They use kind of a basket of belts to fix the front of your shoe, which works better with soft shoes than the usual brackets. But though being in the Sierra in early June I used them for 2 short spots only, so cannot tell about the wear and tear they may cause to the shoes on longer stretches.
@@TikiBirdTracy I keep finding places where people say they make crampons that work well with trail runners, but no one ever says what they are. After doing a bunch of research I can't really find anything that is made specifically for trail runners other than micro spikes. Do you have any brand or model suggestions?
I can’t believe it’s been six years since PCT which is when I started following you. Good, practical tips for the Sierra this year. ❄️
This was so helpful!! I’m hiking the PCT this year and have been scouring the internet for sources about snow hiking on the PCT
Hey, did it last year. Here's some resources you should check out: Restless Kiwi on YT has a great Sierra series in 2019 about the logistics in a high snow year and snow travel in general. Andrew Skurka has a spreadsheet about Sierra river crossings I think. Watch the PCT Water report/Sierra Webinar of 2017. Before that San Jacinto Jon (san jacinto snow report on YT) has videos on current conditions. Read Farout comments, make sure it's updated and get a group together in KM of reliable people. Happy trails!
@@wio2189 awesome advice thanks!
This is great Dixie, thank you! Like others have said, there has been so much negativity in regards to the snow that for those of us going in this year, it feels impossible. Hearing non-biased advice on what you can do to manage it is so much more helpful
Thank you for the info! Your PCT videos are still my favorite. 😀
Microspikes are fine for walking down the driveway or other flat surface. On icy slopes they are worse than nothing at all. They'll just pull right off if you slip or fall, yet they might make you think you can go places you shouldn't. A leash on my ice axe literally saved my life while climbing Mt. Shasta.
@@nelsondln I think most people take microspikes because they are lighter. I get it; I don't like adding weight to my pack either. I just know from my own experience that microspikes will easily detach from your shoes. I heard last year about crampons that didn't require boots, but I've never used them and would be wary of spiking my foot (I've got a couple of scrapes on my mountaineering boots from misplaced steps when tired and unbalanced). When I see some of the steep chutes in the Sierra, I wouldn't want to cross them with microspikes. It's a personal decision, just be aware that no professional or manufacturer that I've ever read or heard thinks you should wear microspikes on slopes greater than 15%.
To clarify, when I say see, I don't mean just on UA-cam; the Sierra is one of my favorite places to hike.
I did the PCT in a high snow level year. I've experience with both crampons and micro spikes. Micro spikes would have been the best option for almost all the hiking I did on snow. Did a flip flop though because of time constraints so didn't go through the Sierras with a lot of snow, but there was snow almost everywhere on the trail and lots of hiking on snow.
Recommend Starr’s Guide also. Won’t tell where logs are crossing watercourses, but tells you everything else.
I live in Visalia (CA) on the west side of the Sierra's very close to the entrance to Sequoia National Park in Three Rivers, CA. I am also close to Kings Canyon NP and Yosemite NP is farther but still a reasonable drive. Kernville/Lake Isabella area is also possible. It's going to be a wild year for water crossings and snow bridges in the High Sierra. After today's storms, we are NOT dealing with a High Water Year, but with an Historic Water Year. It continues to rain heavily as I type.
The permitting agencies need to be flexible with start times and flip flops and route deviations or they will get people killed. Hikers need to be flexible also. A few drownings and the Park Service will close trails. Current local National Park leadership is pretty risk adverse. You are as much an annoyance as a customer.
Go with a group is good advice this year (and I was a dedicated solo hiker). Be careful though, Group Over-confidence can also be dangerous. Use of ropes for stream crossings can go badly in many different ways.
If you need to bail off trail to the west, I may be able to help with pick-up and re-positioning (Currently retired). seqchs@sbcglobal.net. Start subject header with PCT.
Yeah, very crazy winter over here on the west coast this year. Snow in the Santa Monica mountains, Big Bear got completely isolated up in the San Bernardinos, and a bunch of roads are closed from rockfall and erosion in the Padres. Stay safe out there.
I’m an old man from northern Canada. Fished and hiked my whole life, all over the world. Cross rivers with a buddy, arms around each other’s shoulders. Try it, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Dixie, great video and info. I like to keep my pack cinched tight during river crossings as well. Todays packs are lighter and more buoyant than the packs of my past. Also may I add remove the tip covers of your ice axe when using it. The covers make it harder to get the bite you need to stop your slide.
Thanks Dixie! A good video with good advice, as always. Writing just to endorse you’re attaching your InReach device to your person and to add a little to those who might read this. For potential rescue purposes I carry an InReach Mini, a whistle and a small mirror (bright clothing also is good). I carry these on my person, not on/in my pack: I stop for lunch, take off my pack, walk down to the stream for water and fall in the stream or other similar scenarios.
I'm starting the PCT on March 18th, pretty intimidated, but going with a group is the #1 rule I'm following and pushing for others to follow, especially with those river crossings. I'm actually going with a whippet rather than an ice axe after much deliberation. But that's another option for people recommended by snow hiking instructors.
Flip flopping is definitely a bit tricky considering the long permit from the PCTA and the way local permits work there.
There are some great videos on UA-cam about the different techniques for crossing swollen rivers. Watch them all. Decide what makes sense to you. This year especially. Blessings, smiles.
Don't worry too much about the permit. Be save first. The only time I was checked was the Sierra and just north of Echo lake. Just tell them you started when you had to and walked north always. If you're unusually late, tell them you had to wait out snow due to injury. Do what you have to do this year. The reason for the permits is overuse of trail which won't be a problem this year.
I will be 2 weeks behind you and also bought a whippet. I tested self arrest (in mild conditions) and seems to work fine. At least we will have it at hand where others have the ice axe in there backpack at the wrong moment
I thought you were using some hiker jargon and were saying "ass axe" at first! I know what crampons are lol,and I would have guessed what an ice axe is eventually!
I envy you and your compatriots who are able to complete these hikes,I can only really fly to somewhere in the Southwest,Montana,or PNW and rent a vehicle and hike a selection of 2 hour or half day hikes.I try to cover too much new ground each trip,and have been just about everywhere out west-from Big Bend to Glacier,and as far west as The North Cascades. Currently I am thinking about taking a quick trip to southern Arizona and hiking around Mount Lemon and other high peaks around Tucson. I really want to get back to Montana or the Cascades but I have to wait till the snow subsidies-which is still months away.
I work in the service industry and am an unofficial caregiver for elderly parents,so I can't get out for more than a few days at a time. And I live in the New Orleans area,no mountains anywhere near me hence me having to fly places.
Thank you so much for making these videos. You are doing a great service by helping educate people and by highlighting these magnificent places and the cool people drawn to them.
+1 for InReach. So nice to be able to send a message to the wife at the end of every day no matter where I am. Keeps her from worrying. Just make sure it's always somewhere you can reach it easily even if you've taken a bad fall - meaning either arm should be able to get at it EASILY - no stretching or twisting your back necessary. If you can't get at it when you need it, it can't save you, and you're not going to have any warning before you need it.
In California we know now. The snow is insane. It actually bent a steel bridge almost 90 deg. 10k+ is absolutely covered still in July.
Great video! I would add that bringing a piece of wire is worth it if the micro spikes break and I would personally bring another pair of sunglasses in case the others get lost or whatnot. Also a mylar emergency blanket (bivy is better: SOL emergency bivy) is worth it in case your down quilt gets wet from a river crossing. Of course, that's a worst case scenario. A proper pack liner is worth it. You mentioned safety in numbers and especially at river crossings this is KEY. Thanks Dixie!
Hiking on powder snow is pretty much impossible you sink in so much with each step that it takes too much energy and the avalache risk is high. The good news is that the strong spring sun quickly consolidates the powder into spring snow that will support you're weight if you start early in the day when the snow is more fozen. gentle to moderate slopes are fine but some of the steeper slopes are dangerous with alot of snow if you start to slide you will slide a long ways. People assume that an ice axe will stop you but you need to know how to use that ice axe, you immediately plunge the axe in hard almost like you are falling on the axe, if you don't try to stop right away you build up to much speed the axe is useless. Crampons are essential for climbing steeper snow slopes. Normally little creeks will be dangerous raging rivers as the melt sets in. in these cooil wet years hiking in Aril and May is risky you might be stuck in a blizzard for a few days and have to hunker down. All this being said the snow covered mountains can be really beautiful I've enjoyed spring hiking in the sierra but you have tro be prepared.
Completely agree with you on the hip belt thing. I don't use a hip belt generally, but have a web hip belt strap that I use only when I'm doing river crossings, and sometimes on sketchy snowy areas. It keeps my pack firmly on, and helps with balance if I need to bend quickly to get my balance.
Update from this mornings headline in the Palm Springs Newspaper: Pacific Crest Trail hikers told to avoid San Jacinto Mountains during winter storm aftermath.
Update: Massive and continuous snowfall in the Sierra since my update 4 days ago and forecasted to continue for the next 7 days. PCT/JMT through the parks (Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Yosemite) is going to be impassable until much later in the season. Likely that Tuolumne Meadows, will never be opened by the Park as in exceptionally high water years it much more of a swamp than a lake and heavy hiker use will tear it up. Delay your start, be flexible and creative, or take a working vacation in the Owens Valley for a few weeks.
People starting the Arizona trail anytime soon are gonna be having a hard time. There's still 5-6+ feet of snow on the trail at higher elevations with more on the way.
Did you say "noseholes?" You are funny sometimes, Dixie! Great info. I bailed on the JMT in 2019, another high snow year. I had altitude sickness and the snowy flooded conditions just didn't help me have a good time. In 2021, the conditions were sooooo different! No snow, and easy peasy.
People do mixed climbing on rock and ice without taking off their crampons to protect the "little teeth" - a good pair of crampons is made of much stouter steel than that found in micro-spikes.
this year is already more snow than the time you went in 2017. I feel bad for all those starting early
The snow this year looks like it could be a record breaker, and the trails may be opening a little later than usual I think! Not that I know much about the Sierra Mountains, but there's a lot of snow up there from what I've seen on the news!
Thank you thank you thank you! Content like this is really helping me get my head around starting the PCT April 1st.
Eager to hear your reports from the Arizona Trail. You should reach out to Jerry Arizona and do a “crossover episode” at some point.
I read Daniel’s book. I remember that year filling you. and have been thinking what this year will be like.
That’s what I like to hear! 😁
Where can I get those black shorts you wear throughout the video. Thanks and keep on truckin'!
Such fantastic advice!!! This year will be even more extreme... this late cold deep snow this year will take a very long time to melt and run off. The run offs will be quite the stream! Planning some trips to the High Sierra this year, there will be almost no snowless season. Skipping the High Sierras: Just make sure you still see this beautiful section another time
I hike in the Adirondack mountains in upstate NY. I hike one particular mountain “ampersand mountain,” 3 or 4 times a week. Either I wear micro spikes or snow shoes. All depends. Last night we got a foot of snow. So tomorrow and the next week or so, I’ll be wearing snow shoes. But things will be changing quickly. We are in March now and the weather will be getting warmer and probably some rainy snow. The trail will turn into glare ice. So I’ll be wearing micro spikes. I’d rather have conditions wear I need to wear micro spikes, rather than snow shoes. But with lots of snow means I can slide down the mountain on my buttocks. When it is icy, sliding is a no go. You get going way to fast, almost at free fall speed, and there are too many rocks and trees that will “break” your fall and your neck. The deep snow slows you down and covers the rocks, which is good for knees and legs. I use trekking poles in all conditions. In winter I use two poles, and one in the summer. So I cannot carry an ice axe. Bottom line in the Adirondacks trekking poles are more useful than an ice axe. I carry a rope and a grappling hook to get up a few real steep ice spots. What I worry about the most about winter hiking is breaking a leg or hitting your head from a slip and fall, and being wet from the elements and sweat. Hypothermia is probably the biggest danger. Just north of the Adirondack mountains is the white mountains in New Hampshire. Mount Washington two weeks ago with the wind chill was 100 degrees below zero with the windchill factor. The coldest place in the United States is on top of mount Washington. Making a fire on top of the north east mountains would be practically impossible in the dead of winter. Nothing but green wet evergreen 🌲 trees. Nothing dry in the three feet of snow. However, there are some mountains in the “high peaks” in the Adirondacks that you need crampons and an ice axe is useful.
If you are hiking the PCT in 2023 you are going to need CRAMPONS in the High Sierra. To avoid postholing you should camp high so you can cross the summit early in the day while the snow is still frozen on the downside. While glissading is a heck of a lot of fun it is a very easy way to get injured seriously and you could end up having to quit the trail. As most thru hikers know, the best time to ford a river is early in the morning.
@@Homemadewanderlustofficial HI, I'm not sure if I'm doing this right. I've never done this before. Thanks for replying to my comment. I have enjoyed watching your videos.
@@OnlyTheStrongSurvive712 This wasn't Jessica, but a scammer who wants to talk you into sending him money.
Was wondering if sobo would be better but the snow and flooding don't care.
Sobo may be better - WA has just average snow pack. You may start then in early July, and be in the Sierra in September when the snow pack is nearly gone.
Hello 👋 Dixie, a big thank you for sharing this vital information. Stay safe and healthy out there. 🤗 👋
I was checking the AZT and the Huchucha Mountains in Arizona near the southern terminus of the AZT ( Coronado NF ) had higher than normal snow pack too!
I’m headed to the Arizona trail tomorrow! 🎉
Good tips, need some of these tools for my next snow hike
The ice pack in echo lake was 118” when I went. Perfectly fine with snowshoes and gaiters. However, this recent storm has turned moderate avalanche danger to considerate and the snow pack is so high it’s unmanageable. I live locally to Tahoe. It won’t be home able for another month IF the storms stop this week.
Super appreciate this video. Starting in Campo in just over 30 days
I was snow backpacking southern California in January even before the recent storms. I highly recommend *crampons* for snow hiking fitted to the appropriate boots. You need them fitted. If they fall off, they do no good...I know it's out of the question for most thru hikers but even snow shoes perform well in traveling through snow too. The most important thing is safety. These two are actually made for snow travel. Microspikes fail and sink into snow quite easily. They are not made for a lot of snow conditions. They are easy to slip in. Real ice axe self-arresting training via a Snow Travel Class can save your life if you slip. There is nothing to break a fall if you do not properly self-arrest other than trees and rocks. There have been deaths this year even from very experienced winter mountain climbers. Getting adequate training is a must and I agree on traveling with groups. Snow Travel takes longer and is more tiring. You also cannot see the trail. Footprints can lead away from the trail. Use several forms of navigation. It's okay to cut entire sections of the trail out of your itinerary if you do not have experience.
The snow in January is completely different from the snow in June, after weeks of sunshine on it.
@Henning Rech Yes, my comment is in reference to the deep snow that is present right now. I was in the snow before the storms in Southern California...Now there is more snow and microspikes didn't provide any traction in the conditions previous to the storms. It is still winter. My comment is not related to summer PCT travel at all.
Re: cutting sections out, where else would hikers go, though? In June, isn't there snow all the way to Canada still? Is there a safer nearby trail you'd recommend?
Yep, as soon as I started hearing about the crazy amount of snow hitting the Sierra Nevada’s , I thought about your epic PCT hike, Dixie, and some of those super scary river crossings you did. They still give me the shivers. 🫣
such a bummer.. as this is the year I am going to attempt the PCT thanks for making this Dixie it's super helpful!
Sierra's were a joy in June last year. Probably not so much this year?
Crampons require stiff boots
Micro spikes are for soft boots or train runners
Thanks for the great info
Question
1. When and where did you start to carry you ice ax
2. When an where to start to carry bear spray
3. Did you send them to Kennedy Meadows?
Thank you, a.k.a. Padre
1. depends on the snow situation. In an average snow year, KM would be a good choice. This year maybe San Jacinto.
2. never - neither needed (no Grizzlies) nor allowed in NPs
@@Henning_Rech thanks have a Blessed Day
I'm unloading in Sylacauga. Now I know why Dixie would rather be hiking.
Snow shoes could be a help when post holing but they are bulky and heavy. :)
Well Done! Informative and timely for sure.
How long does it take to get through the Sierras?
Do you just load up on food for the whole stretch? or are there towns along the way to restock at?
Thank you Dixie for this super important information, suncups are the devil…best wishes to all hikers attempting the PCT…
Im sure the Class of 2023 really appreciates this! Good luck to everyone =)
I am a confirmed trekking poles user, but I don't understand the recommendation to use a trekking pole in the hand not carrying the ice ax. In case of self-arrest do you discard the trekking pole? Or are you left with a trekking pole on it's strap flailing around you as you execute the self arrest? It might feel more secure walking along, but in case of an actual slip it seems to me it could cause more problems than it solves. Anyone with exprience want to comment? I do have ice ax and self arrest experience (decades ago) but I've never tried using both an ax and a trekking pole. Would love to hear feedback. I've mulled this over many times.
Thank you so much for this, Jessica. You are the best!!!
It's a mess right now. I would encourage hikers inexperienced with extreme snow to stay away from the Pacific until perhaps July.
Dixie, what were your sierra dates? This year's snowpack may be very similar to 2017, I've watched your videos to prepare for what it might be like but I'd like to know what date you went in to get a better idea. Thanks for the video!
I am interested in this also!!
15:50 KM 6/19. She was in South Lake Tahoe 7/22.
This years snowpack will be more than 2017, will be very interesting.
" This year's snowpack may be very similar to 2017" After the last set of storms (today) , it be much higher for longer.
average sierra snowpack snow water equivalent:
2017 (Apr 1): 45.7"
2023 (Mar 11): 51.3"
Pretty solid forecast at this point suggesting at least another 10" of snow water equivalent being added this year by Apr 1, so it will be 30-40% higher than 2017
Nice work, thanks!
Excellent advice... as usual!!!
This has nothing to do with snow. I am curious about your morning coffee and instant breakfast combination can you tell me how you mix it up to taste good i am a terrible cook i would appreciate, it big fan
I love you ( did the camino Frances in 2021 fall at 72 yrs solo ) but took me ,from the Northeast, to understand many repeats ,what you
were talking about aasax, aasax . we say ice ax. you are my champion and who doesn't love an engineer girl ! ps my name is Michael but I'm a women also
The unfortunate part about the PCT is you can't choose your start date which can be deadly for having an early start date.
You can get local permits or ignore the rules, start later and tell the rangers you waited out weather in town for some weeks. All better options than risking your life due to a system that was implemented to reduce impact on the trail - which is no concern this year.
@@wio2189 Of you can do anything, but you shouldn't ignore the rules. Hike another year if you don't want to follow them.
@@christopherhaak9824 As I said, there's local permits. Just showing options.
@@christopherhaak9824 It is in fact easy to hike on local permits. Cleveland NF: use campsites like Lake Morena, then you do not need an overnight permit. San Jacinto: cannot be hiked in the moment anyway. Sierra: get a non-quota permit from Iny NF (KM to Sonora). And for the rest, a PCTA permit from Sonora pass to Canada, starting in June or July.
My last campout, it was cold but no snow. I like snow. Snow is "cool"
I live in Northern California and I have hiked sections of the PCT. There is only one thing you need to know about the PCT in Northern California this year DON’T DO IT!
I would guess that there will be less than 100 people who are able to continuously hike the PCT NOBO and make it all the way this year.
Hey just met you yesterday out by springer mountain. Names (Wallstreet), i was with (Nutz & Rooster). Might see ya on the way back to springer from Unicoi Gap. Happy Trails!
It wasn’t me 😬
@@HomemadeWanderlust omg! 😂 My bad, it was Terra Treks. Well Happy Trails anyway! 😜
@@steventaylor3296 Haha, no worries! Happy Trails to you :)
@@HomemadeWanderlust Thanks!
This year’s hikers better prepare for a cold, snowy SoCal too. Mike’s Place at mile 127 had nearly three feet of snow as of yesterday. Thinking of SoCal as “the desert” and thinking they’ll be fine in shorts could find themselves in a bad place.
It has been very cold and snowy! Snowing in places it normally doesn’t!
When did you do the Sierra in 2017? I am going this year in mid-July and I am wondering if I should expect similar conditions.
15:50 KM 6/19. She was in South Lake Tahoe 7/22.
@@Henning_Rech thanks a lot for this info.
I live in Idyllwild (actually Pine Cove) .. the snow is so high that I can’t get home .. I am snowed out
Great video, as always!
What day/month did you start into the sierras? Hoping to hike the PCT this year!
15:50 KM 6/19. She was in South Lake Tahoe 7/22.
Always great information and advice. I have may miles in the Sierra
Crampons or microspikes this year for pct hikers entering early june?
Recently with all the snow the AZT has received their been several hiker that failed to heed warning and went out to hike in a blizzard condition cause the theme being they are going to hike their own hike and not listen to locals. Several air rescues where needed and atleast one person suffered frost bite.
I think the through hiker groups tend to embrace the thinking warning be dammed it my hike. Yell I seen local thst maintain the trail tell out of towner to wait a day and give the trail time to dry out. But instead they march on cause of the rat race they are in and damage the trail.
Heck last year one guy had to be rescued twice cause he wanted to due the azt and PCT in the same year
It is not about blizzards which can occur in the Sierra typically until mid May. Also not about cold. But about days in June and July, with temps maybe in the 70s, but tremendous amount of snow and water.
I start April 3, after over a year of preparation and even longer watching your videos. So basically, this is all your fault 😝