I purchased a track saw rail square and later a parallel guide jig for my Makita track saw to make identical cuts solely on Dennis' recommendations and have not been disappointed one bit. He's tops!
been down this track before wish I had found this channel sooner have brought all of these products yes some are better than others now I can fix the orange ones cheers
I bought a countersink bit around two years ago but it is possibly a different make because it is red. I was also very impressed so I bought the orange set from Banggood. I'm still impressed over one year later. While watching I was going to suggest you file the shaft of the bit - then you filed the shaft of the bit. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dennis. I've bought many excellent tools thanks to your reviews, so thank you! I bought the 'Set of countersink bits, wood plug cutters, and center punch' you reviewed in this video and I thought I'd share a problem I had. After using one of the smaller the drill bits with built in counter-sink bit about a dozen times, the drill bit broke off in the wood. I then swapped in a different drill bit I had from another set, but that broke off too. I think the thinner bits just can't cope with the force generated by thaving the countersink bit attached. Time to invest in some better combined bits. Perhaps I'll try the first ones in this video and file down the shanks.
I already have the 2nd set of countersink bits you talked about, can confirm everything you said. I was pretty impressed by the packaging for the price, especially the labels for the sizes. Also, the shanks on mine are 3-sided and not just round, so there's no chance of them slipping in the drill. Although with the countersunk holes, you should not be pushing hard enough for that to be a concern! Love the series, very informative.
Thanks Denis, as informative as ever. I have bought a number of your recommended items and all without exception have worked out great. I have also managed to steer away from inferior items
The orange ones: perhaps they use a standard and not a flattened shanked bit so they are more easily replaceable? (I've never needed to replace an insert/pilot bit in a countersink yet.) So, I wish they would flatten the shank of the pilot bit. Or, perhaps it's just less expensive to manufacture? Or, perhaps just not much thought was put into the design? I have a set of Fuller (made in Connecticut, USA) which are similar in principle and really excellent countersinks but those have tapered drill bits. (Not always optimal, I like the straight bit design of these orange ones actually). These orange ones do look nice and I hope they flatten the shanks. If they do, I will get a set from Banggood. Dennis, your videos are always excellent and informative. You have an organized mind and shop.
Thanks Dennis for another good video, you definately seem to be having an effect on the market availability for these items as more and more UK suppliers are starting to stock these items that you review
About the countersinks - if you need a bigger hole then the screw head, then the angle of the countersink is bigger than 90°. Screws generally have a 90° countersink, sometimes 120°, but this is more rare. You will get the same situation if you make a countersink the cheap way - by using a drill bit for metal. Drill bits for metal are usually sharpened at a 118° angle.
I recently bought 1 of the drill/counter sink bits from Wolfcraft. I have the one that also has a depth stop for the countersink, the more expensive one (#2544). It's pretty nice and seems fine so far, previously I had the cheaper ones (#2498) which have a similar issue regarding the slipping drill bit like you discussed in this video. The countersink is attached with 1 little set screw on a round drill bit which you put in your drill, the weak connection causes the countersink to slip. Both come without a brad point drill bit tho which is a real shame but should be rather easy to switch out.
The Dewalt countersinks produce heat and smoke because the drill is tapered to accommodate tapered screws. While I have not tested the Chinese countersink set shown (first set), others I've tried all had the same flaw: the pilot drill bit broke--snapped in half--after moderate use. Drill bits: if they are not made of high speed steel (HSS) they lose their temper when overheated.
Weer een mooie video Dennis, ik heb een gelijkaardige vergelijk gemaakt maar had ook de bit met een schuin gat erin! Werkt zeer goed voor voorgeboorde gaten.
As it happens, I had already bought the orange countersink bit set and they arrived this week.My intention was to replace a set of Insty-Bit HSS bits I bought (what must be) 20 years ago that I have now worn out. What tempted me is that the cutting edge is TCT, not HCS. In theory these should see me out of this plane of existence! So far, I have only used the new set for a couple of test cuts and those cuts were made in common white melamine coated chipboard. A material that is extremely hard on drill bits. I got a nice clean cut in the melamine coating and countersink but, the flutes of the countersink clogged up with the chipboard. Not the end of the world and at the price, it is acceptable given the quality of the cut and modifying the drilling method to take multiple less heavy cuts so the chips clear. I have not yet experienced the problem you had with bit spinning but that is not surprising given the test materials used. Insty-Bit countersinks come with a drill bit with that has a flat already ground on; but the design is fundamentally the same. I have replaced the drill bits many times of the past 20 years but I just bought regular drill bits and did not bother with buying Insty-Bit replacement bits. I have never experienced the problem you have. Still. grinding on a flat is not that big a deal. I'm not sure these are going to satisfy me long term, but they will be fine for now.
Hello Denis, would it be possible to record video about your woodshop and power tools you have? Some tour around what you have there because it really looks amazing. Thanks for great work!
It is a bit older on this moment, but this is my first tour around the shop. ua-cam.com/video/d8ldeXVSSwg/v-deo.html&lc=UgxmqPb5x1-tu9gQXb94AaABAg I plan a new one, when my new workshop is ready.
@@HookedonWood Thank YOu very much, shame i did not understand much, but i get very good idea about your maschines. May I ask where you get your table saw, because HARVEY is comapny iN USA and they dont ship this kind of maschines oversees. Thank YOu again and take care
I also have a English version. I sent you the dutch link. Look on my channel. You can buy Harvey on different places in the Netherlands. Harvey comes from China tough. But they are oem for a lot of brands
If the drill bit gets stuck in the wood, it is easy to get out with the drill, after first removing the orange part. After that you have both parts free for easy reassembling.
Hi Dennis, I am in Melbourne Australia and have been in lockdown for the last 2 months. I cant leave home, go to friends or even go to work. Your videos are great and have taken mind away from all this stuff. I already have a lot of the Banggood items you have reviewed and they are very good value. I just got the Mitre gauge and box fence and it is really good, unfortunately I forgot to go to the item from your website but next item I buy I will. Please keep up these reviews as there are a lot of items I would like to buy but without honest reviews I am not sure about. Your Jessem clear cut guides for example, there is a similar Banggood product but at that price unless they gave them for free to you to review I wouldnt expect you to purchase again. Would love to know if those Jessem guides would fit onto a contractor saw. Again thank you and keep it up.
Hi, I do not know if the Jessem fits on a contractor fence. Perhaps you can find out on there site. I notice that there is a Banggood alternative. But considering the price I would buy the original. That said. Sometimes they have really great sales. And When that happen, then it can be a good deal. I did not see it in real live. So, I can not say if they are good. They look nice.
I the same orange set. and I had the same issue. I bought better quality set screws, and a better allen wrench. I'll consider adding a second set screw on the other side :-)
The orange countersinks are another interesting product. Flattening the drill-bit would not be a problem for me, I could live with that. Have you ever tried to use it in a router? The 8mm shank seems to scream for that.
Hi Dennis, I was wondering if Drillpro took your advice and upgraded the orange set you showed. I’m looking for something like this and see they have a black set but it still uses a grub screw on the shank. I’m keen to see a review if they did upgrade
Muy interesante, bastante claro en las ilustraciones, aun que no hablo el idioma ingles, seria bueno que se utilizara un traductor. Saludos desde México. Desde ahora me suscribo. Nuevamente saludos.
Hi Maton, What I wanted to show is that if you get not a smooth result after your pilot hole, this is not because of a dull bit. It is because it can not centre itself. I think you need the right size bit and drill pas the bevel. Then it can center itself again. Or, drill deep enough, so the bevel can center itself in the pilot hole. Thanks for your comment!
I disagree. I'm a structural mechanic with metal and I never countersunk before. You can't. I press into the metal lightly then increase pressure till you get the results your looking for or use a countersinking cage and Its perfect results every time because you preset the cage.
Hi! Nice videos and reviews. Subscribed! PS: the last bits in this video you say you don't know which one to choose since they have the same sizes. Well, that's because they are made for different purposes. One is for wood dowels and the round ones are made for cork, which is soft. It works like a knife for soft materials. So is not made for wood. Specially hard wood.
To join wood properly you need three bits: pilot, clearance and countersink (if the head is countersunk). . If you don’t drill a clearance hole the two pieces of wood pull apart. Get yourself three power drills.
Hi Jim, you are right. I had this subject included in the video but It became too long and I found the story line become too complicated. Maybe I add it next time. Thanks for your comment.
Excellent review as usual, Denis, particularly where you draw attention to the problem with the orange countersinking bits. I also thought that a flat on the shank would be a solution, and would be happy to do this myself. However, the problem I've had with other similar sets is that the Allen key provided is slightly too small, and slips before it tightens completely, and even though I have a number of Allen key sets, I never seem to find one that works OK. So - how effective was the key supplied with the set you purchased?
I have had the same issue with the heads of the Allen screws - solved by buying a small quantity of Allen screws on eBay - the Allen key no longer slips and the bits are now useful
Hi Don, You say something interesting here. The problem is that I change the bigger one. And here the screw was long enough. But I do not know how this will be with the smaller drill bits. I assume the shaft will be longer and therefore the screw can reach the shank. I also bought new ones for the ones that turned mad. They where longer. I also have to say that those new ones where of a better quality and that also fixes the problem. But I still think it gives too much stress, so flattenen the shank is still the best solution in my opinion. I used my own Allen key set because of the problem you subscribe. I did not test the original ones.
Hi Denis, Thanks for your videos, I really appreciate these. The link to "5 pcs countersink bit set" isn't working anymore. What I do not like so much is that chinese companies "take" (not to say "steal") not only the color or the material but the whole design and style and spirit from other manufacturers like Woodpeckers. On the other side some of the tools (like woodpeckers) are highly overprized. But the good Chinese manufacturers schould find their own style. Keep on you nice videos! Regards from Berlin Frank
No, i got two recently, but i do not like them. They are accurate, but they do not slide the way my more expansive one does. I got only two, and they offer a lot so I can not say that they will all be bad, but based on these experiences i would recommend one of a brand. I use it to much for that and the difference when working with is big. My more expansive one is much more solid. I do not know the brand of mine because it is not written on it.
@@HookedonWood Thanks for your honesty.I watch a lot of your videos and really enjoy and learn from them. I hope you will find one worth buying soon. I have some projects coming up when I could really use an accurate measurement.
I used a normal drill to pull the bit out when it gets stuck on me! It is still difficult and annoying but you get what you pay. Most skilled professionals uses some of these cheaper products from China but they will never admitted! There is nothing wrong with being frugal and working smart. Just used them for general purposes and use your higher quality tools for finishing jobs. But whatever!
Thank you. Dennis have you done a review of your pocket hole jig in any of your china tool episidos, think I have seen them all and didnt see pocket jig review?
Hi, Not yet. I plan this for the next episode, or that one after that. Reason is that I also want to include a nice station for this pocket hole jig where I am working at. Coming up Soon!
hiya i have a big order ready on axminster .. i was wondering how fast delivery is on this web site i am stating a bit kitchen project soon thanks greazt vids
People interested in Chinese tools should begin saving up some money now. *November* *11th* is the Chinese equivalent of Black Friday, when merchants offer the best prices of the year. If you're looking for something expensive, this is the best time to shop. Also I'll comment that Banggood is essentially for beginners. Asian artisans will develop relationships with some of the store owners on AliExpress, where a much larger variety of tools is available. Unfortunately AliExpress also is full of scammers, so be cautious.
When you can't get a nice round hole with a conical countersink (model without a drill bit) , just reduce the speed of your drill. Try different speeds to find the right one.
Garry not Linda. Here's a trick to clean up those countersink holes. Countersink at a moderate speed to about the depth you want, stop, reverse the drill and run it for a short time and it will polish off most of the roughness of the chamfer. This is especially helpful in open grained woods.
I flatten the end of the drill bit a little. But this is not easy because of the hard material. But by doing this the screw of the orange piece has grip and it will not turn around anymore.
The fact that you could file the bit flat does not speak well for the hardness of the drill. As for the plain countersinks with multi flutes, you can always expect chatter and bad results. Single flute countersinks avoid this problem without the need for a center.
Keyless chucks AREN'T the problem, poorly made cheap keyless chuck however could be. My 18V Dewalt came with a Rohm made steel bodied keyless chuck and it doesn't ever slip. Like anything else you only get the accuracy and performance your willing to pay for. I had one keyed chuck on a Black & Decker corded drill that would slip and burr up every drill shank used in it no matter how much it was tightened. If any chuck slips more than twice and I'm positive it wasn't my error that chuck gets scrapped and replaced with something much better. While pretty much all the tools shown in this video could be used in a portable drill exactly like the video showed. There really meant and designed to be used in an actual drill press where the spindle stop can be pre set so you get repeatable depth settings. Plus it's easier to also select the proper speeds on just about any drill press verses the almost guessed at speeds on a variable speed hand drill. With any high carbon cutting tools there extremely limited in the exact speed range you can safely operate them at. High carbon cutting tools have about 30% of the allowable speeds that a high speed cutting tool material has. Go above that and due to temperature you'll start to quickly destroy the tools heat treatment. Today virtually every decent tool manufacture no longer produces high carbon cutting tools because of the materials built in issues. I can no longer afford to waste money on cheap cutting tools and simply refuse to buy any more high carbon tools.
I love that you have series dedicated to chinese tools, since I feel there is some real value to be had there, and not enough info and reliable reviews to watch. I do feel you do not bash low quality items as hard as you should though. This especially aplies to items with glaring design flaws/qc issues that render them almost useless. This orange countersink is perfect example, but I had same impression of you beeing too leniant earlier in the series as well. Most notably with that t ruler whose double tapering made it obsolete in my eyes. If simply changing my wrist angle due to stretching arms while drawing long line causes marking error larger than tools minimum offset, there is no redeeming quality that would make it worthwhile purchase. Pointing the flaw out and simply lowering recomendation is not enough imo, especially considering you are providing affiliate links. You are lowering your own credibility, at least in my eyes. That said I think you are providing quality content and hope to see more videos in the future. I would love to see some clamps reviews myself ... you can never have enough clamps :)
Hi, thanks for your comment. I really appreciate that. I see you choose your words carefully and make your point. I appreciate your nuance. In some way, I struggle with the same as I review items. Believe it or not, but the affiliate links have not that much to do with it. But I feel a certain responsibility towards my viewers, but also towards Banggood in this case. I am relatively precise, have quite a few opportunities to purchase good to excellent equipment tools. From that perspective, it is sometimes difficult to assess a "somewhat less" product. I want the best for myself. But a friend of mine with the same hobby is pleased with it. And then you have the factor price, which is sometimes very low compared to what you get. I find it difficult to compare something against the price when a product is less than I think necessary. On the other hand, it is very advantageous compared to alternatives, which are not necessarily better. A kind of protection for myself is that I show almost all shortcomings in my videos, with this, the viewer can draw his own conclusions. The T-ruler to which you revert is an example of this. In this video, I indicate that if you are interested, you should see if you can live with these shortcomings. Based on my video and info you can conclude that it is not for you. In fact my goal has then been achieved. If it were all about the money, I wouldn't even bring up the shortcomings. This is different from the orange drills. In that case, I'm really excited about how sharp and functional they are. If you use them in MDF or soft woods, you probably wouldn't even have a problem. If so, the solution is relatively simple. When such a drill costs 15 euros, it is unacceptable. But for 2 euros that is more nuanced. I would like to emphasize again that I am very happy with your comment Despite the fact that English is not my native language, I spend a lot of time and attention to choose the right words during my review to give the best possible balanced view of the products I review. The last thing I would like is not to show or minimize weaknesses. If that appears to be the case, it has more to do with how I take the factor price into account. But I will carefully consider your comments. Thanks, Dennis
You cant recommend a product because you are using it incorrectly. When your drill is getting stuck in the wood it is because you are not clearing your chips and you have compressed food fibers increasing friction and heat. To keep the drills from becoming stuck you need to clear the chips, push the drill down, then while still spinning pull the drill out enough for the flutes to eject the chips and continue drilling.
Hi Jeffrey, thanks for your comment. I Do not know if you referring to the countersink bit or the drill bit from the latest set. I do agree with you 100%. But I compared it with the other two I showed earlier in the same circumstances. I did not drill it that far into the wood. The other two did not have problems with that in the last drill bit has exactly the same design and got stuck when it was only a few mm in. So, although I still agree with you on how to use the drill machine and bit. I still think it was not that far in the wood to get stuck from the chips.
I have so much apriciation and respect for things made in china, certainly not for Thier corporations whom take advantage of low wage workers. China in the best it's just underrated by cheap ungrateful westerners .
Never buy rubbish from China, in my experience of 35 years of dealing with tools, the steel in China that they use to make these products is substandard, the look of their stuff is shiny nice but quality is not there compared to tools made elsewhere.
Your reviews are very impressive. You have the mind of an engineer. Methodical, organized, precise.
I purchased a track saw rail square and later a parallel guide jig for my Makita track saw to make identical cuts solely on Dennis' recommendations and have not been disappointed one bit. He's tops!
8:37 Magic!
The editing in this is amazing !!
My new fav wood youtuber!
Thanks Chris, Nice you notice.
been down this track before wish I had found this channel sooner
have brought all of these products yes some are better than others
now I can fix the orange ones cheers
I bought a countersink bit around two years ago but it is possibly a different make because it is red. I was also very impressed so I bought the orange set from Banggood. I'm still impressed over one year later. While watching I was going to suggest you file the shaft of the bit - then you filed the shaft of the bit. Thanks for sharing.
For anyone's interest, a improved version having 2 screws to hold the drill bit is already available and is black in color instead of orange.
Thanks Dennis. I've bought many excellent tools thanks to your reviews, so thank you! I bought the 'Set of countersink bits, wood plug cutters, and center punch' you reviewed in this video and I thought I'd share a problem I had.
After using one of the smaller the drill bits with built in counter-sink bit about a dozen times, the drill bit broke off in the wood. I then swapped in a different drill bit I had from another set, but that broke off too. I think the thinner bits just can't cope with the force generated by thaving the countersink bit attached.
Time to invest in some better combined bits. Perhaps I'll try the first ones in this video and file down the shanks.
Dennis, you great! Love indeed your videos, your office is spetacular.
I already have the 2nd set of countersink bits you talked about, can confirm everything you said. I was pretty impressed by the packaging for the price, especially the labels for the sizes. Also, the shanks on mine are 3-sided and not just round, so there's no chance of them slipping in the drill. Although with the countersunk holes, you should not be pushing hard enough for that to be a concern! Love the series, very informative.
I bought the set you reviewed and flatening the bit worked great. Thanks for the info.
Thanks Denis, as informative as ever. I have bought a number of your recommended items and all without exception have worked out great. I have also managed to steer away from inferior items
The orange ones: perhaps they use a standard and not a flattened shanked bit so they are more easily replaceable? (I've never needed to replace an insert/pilot bit in a countersink yet.) So, I wish they would flatten the shank of the pilot bit.
Or, perhaps it's just less expensive to manufacture? Or, perhaps just not much thought was put into the design? I have a set of Fuller (made in Connecticut, USA) which are similar in principle and really excellent countersinks but those have tapered drill bits. (Not always optimal, I like the straight bit design of these orange ones actually). These orange ones do look nice and I hope they flatten the shanks. If they do, I will get a set from Banggood.
Dennis, your videos are always excellent and informative. You have an organized mind and shop.
I've had the same issue with my famag countersink set, however it was 60 euro and not even orange. ;)
I LOVE ALL THE SUPERDRY STREETWEAR!!
Thanks Dennis for another good video, you definately seem to be having an effect on the market availability for these items as more and more UK suppliers are starting to stock these items that you review
About the countersinks - if you need a bigger hole then the screw head, then the angle of the countersink is bigger than 90°. Screws generally have a 90° countersink, sometimes 120°, but this is more rare. You will get the same situation if you make a countersink the cheap way - by using a drill bit for metal. Drill bits for metal are usually sharpened at a 118° angle.
I recently bought 1 of the drill/counter sink bits from Wolfcraft. I have the one that also has a depth stop for the countersink, the more expensive one (#2544). It's pretty nice and seems fine so far, previously I had the cheaper ones (#2498) which have a similar issue regarding the slipping drill bit like you discussed in this video. The countersink is attached with 1 little set screw on a round drill bit which you put in your drill, the weak connection causes the countersink to slip. Both come without a brad point drill bit tho which is a real shame but should be rather easy to switch out.
Thanks Dennis, looking forward to the upcoming video
The Dewalt countersinks produce heat and smoke because the drill is tapered to accommodate tapered screws.
While I have not tested the Chinese countersink set shown (first set), others I've tried all had the same flaw: the pilot drill bit broke--snapped in half--after moderate use.
Drill bits: if they are not made of high speed steel (HSS) they lose their temper when overheated.
Weer een mooie video Dennis, ik heb een gelijkaardige vergelijk gemaakt maar had ook de bit met een schuin gat erin! Werkt zeer goed voor voorgeboorde gaten.
Nice to see the skills I was taught as a youth are still being passed down.
As it happens, I had already bought the orange countersink bit set and they arrived this week.My intention was to replace a set of Insty-Bit HSS bits I bought (what must be) 20 years ago that I have now worn out. What tempted me is that the cutting edge is TCT, not HCS. In theory these should see me out of this plane of existence!
So far, I have only used the new set for a couple of test cuts and those cuts were made in common white melamine coated chipboard. A material that is extremely hard on drill bits.
I got a nice clean cut in the melamine coating and countersink but, the flutes of the countersink clogged up with the chipboard. Not the end of the world and at the price, it is acceptable given the quality of the cut and modifying the drilling method to take multiple less heavy cuts so the chips clear.
I have not yet experienced the problem you had with bit spinning but that is not surprising given the test materials used.
Insty-Bit countersinks come with a drill bit with that has a flat already ground on; but the design is fundamentally the same. I have replaced the drill bits many times of the past 20 years but I just bought regular drill bits and did not bother with buying Insty-Bit replacement bits. I have never experienced the problem you have. Still. grinding on a flat is not that big a deal.
I'm not sure these are going to satisfy me long term, but they will be fine for now.
Thanks Dennis! Love this series!!
Hello Denis, would it be possible to record video about your woodshop and power tools you have? Some tour around what you have there because it really looks amazing. Thanks for great work!
It is a bit older on this moment, but this is my first tour around the shop. ua-cam.com/video/d8ldeXVSSwg/v-deo.html&lc=UgxmqPb5x1-tu9gQXb94AaABAg I plan a new one, when my new workshop is ready.
@@HookedonWood Thank YOu very much, shame i did not understand much, but i get very good idea about your maschines. May I ask where you get your table saw, because HARVEY is comapny iN USA and they dont ship this kind of maschines oversees. Thank YOu again and take care
I also have a English version. I sent you the dutch link. Look on my channel. You can buy Harvey on different places in the Netherlands. Harvey comes from China tough. But they are oem for a lot of brands
Fantastic review, Dennis! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Ah, perfect timing, I was just looking for something more to add to my collection! 😉👍
More about drillbits would be fun.
If the drill bit gets stuck in the wood, it is easy to get out with the drill, after first removing the orange part. After that you have both parts free for easy reassembling.
Yes, when i saw myself I was thinking the same😀 sometimes you have a blind spot during work. Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi Dennis, I am in Melbourne Australia and have been in lockdown for the last 2 months. I cant leave home, go to friends or even go to work. Your videos are great and have taken mind away from all this stuff. I already have a lot of the Banggood items you have reviewed and they are very good value. I just got the Mitre gauge and box fence and it is really good, unfortunately I forgot to go to the item from your website but next item I buy I will. Please keep up these reviews as there are a lot of items I would like to buy but without honest reviews I am not sure about. Your Jessem clear cut guides for example, there is a similar Banggood product but at that price unless they gave them for free to you to review I wouldnt expect you to purchase again. Would love to know if those Jessem guides would fit onto a contractor saw. Again thank you and keep it up.
Hi,
I do not know if the Jessem fits on a contractor fence. Perhaps you can find out on there site. I notice that there is a Banggood alternative. But considering the price I would buy the original. That said. Sometimes they have really great sales. And When that happen, then it can be a good deal. I did not see it in real live. So, I can not say if they are good. They look nice.
Thanks Dennis, stay safe! 👍👏👏
I the same orange set. and I had the same issue. I bought better quality set screws, and a better allen wrench.
I'll consider adding a second set screw on the other side :-)
The orange countersinks are another interesting product. Flattening the drill-bit would not be a problem for me, I could live with that.
Have you ever tried to use it in a router? The 8mm shank seems to scream for that.
I did not try it. Maybe in the future.
Thanks for your reviews Dennis
Hi Dennis, I was wondering if Drillpro took your advice and upgraded the orange set you showed. I’m looking for something like this and see they have a black set but it still uses a grub screw on the shank. I’m keen to see a review if they did upgrade
Always a great reviews Dennis
Muy interesante, bastante claro en las ilustraciones, aun que no hablo el idioma ingles, seria bueno que se utilizara un traductor. Saludos desde México. Desde ahora me suscribo. Nuevamente saludos.
I never realized you're supposed to use the countersink first. Thanks!
Hi Maton, What I wanted to show is that if you get not a smooth result after your pilot hole, this is not because of a dull bit. It is because it can not centre itself. I think you need the right size bit and drill pas the bevel. Then it can center itself again. Or, drill deep enough, so the bevel can center itself in the pilot hole.
Thanks for your comment!
I disagree. I'm a structural mechanic with metal and I never countersunk before. You can't. I press into the metal lightly then increase pressure till you get the results your looking for or use a countersinking cage and Its perfect results every time because you preset the cage.
Don't worry about putting the sleeve back. Just tighten your chuck on the drill bit and back it out.
You absolutely right. Watching my video back I thought te same. 😀 😃
you have such a beautiful table. How did you make it? Did you use a jig for the dog holes or CNC?
I have a video about it on my channel. Worth to watch ;-)
There he is again! nice vid. Keep it up!
Hi! Nice videos and reviews. Subscribed!
PS: the last bits in this video you say you don't know which one to choose since they have the same sizes. Well, that's because they are made for different purposes. One is for wood dowels and the round ones are made for cork, which is soft. It works like a knife for soft materials. So is not made for wood. Specially hard wood.
Great. I was searching for that answer when I made the video but did not find that information. Thanks
To join wood properly you need three bits: pilot, clearance and countersink (if the head is countersunk). .
If you don’t drill a clearance hole the two pieces of wood pull apart. Get yourself three power drills.
Hi Jim, you are right. I had this subject included in the video but It became too long and I found the story line become too complicated. Maybe I add it next time. Thanks for your comment.
Mooie video weer Dennis, dank je!
Nice one Denis!
Hello Dennis, I wonder if you can review the Chinese made Self Centering drill bits since there are so many of them to see which you would recommend?
I keep it in mind
Today (Black Friday weekend) the Countersink drill bits is no longer available.
Excellent review as usual, Denis, particularly where you draw attention to the problem with the orange countersinking bits. I also thought that a flat on the shank would be a solution, and would be happy to do this myself. However, the problem I've had with other similar sets is that the Allen key provided is slightly too small, and slips before it tightens completely, and even though I have a number of Allen key sets, I never seem to find one that works OK. So - how effective was the key supplied with the set you purchased?
I have had the same issue with the heads of the Allen screws - solved by buying a small quantity of Allen screws on eBay - the Allen key no longer slips and the bits are now useful
Hi Don,
You say something interesting here. The problem is that I change the bigger one. And here the screw was long enough. But I do not know how this will be with the smaller drill bits. I assume the shaft will be longer and therefore the screw can reach the shank. I also bought new ones for the ones that turned mad. They where longer. I also have to say that those new ones where of a better quality and that also fixes the problem. But I still think it gives too much stress, so flattenen the shank is still the best solution in my opinion. I used my own Allen key set because of the problem you subscribe. I did not test the original ones.
Hi Denis,
Thanks for your videos, I really appreciate these.
The link to "5 pcs countersink bit set" isn't working anymore.
What I do not like so much is that chinese companies "take" (not to say "steal") not only the color or the material but the whole design and style and spirit from other manufacturers like Woodpeckers. On the other side some of the tools (like woodpeckers) are highly overprized. But the good Chinese manufacturers schould find their own style.
Keep on you nice videos!
Regards from Berlin
Frank
I agree with you! I also think some are ready for it.
Hey Dennis, you really are a pleasure to learn from. I used your affiliate links to help you get rich :P. Hope you are doing well :)
Have you ever done a review of digital calipers?
No, i got two recently, but i do not like them. They are accurate, but they do not slide the way my more expansive one does. I got only two, and they offer a lot so I can not say that they will all be bad, but based on these experiences i would recommend one of a brand. I use it to much for that and the difference when working with is big. My more expansive one is much more solid. I do not know the brand of mine because it is not written on it.
@@HookedonWood Thanks for your honesty.I watch a lot of your videos and really enjoy and learn from them. I hope you will find one worth buying soon. I have some projects coming up when I could really use an accurate measurement.
I like this review....👍
I used a normal drill to pull the bit out when it gets stuck on me! It is still difficult and annoying but you get what you pay.
Most skilled professionals uses some of these cheaper products from China but they will never admitted! There is nothing wrong with being frugal and working smart. Just used them for general purposes and use your higher quality tools for finishing jobs. But whatever!
Thank you.
Dennis have you done a review of your pocket hole jig in any of your china tool episidos, think I have seen them all and didnt see pocket jig review?
Hi,
Not yet. I plan this for the next episode, or that one after that. Reason is that I also want to include a nice station for this pocket hole jig where I am working at. Coming up Soon!
@@HookedonWood nice one, I will wait for that so and the link
hiya i have a big order ready on axminster .. i was wondering how fast delivery is on this web site i am stating a bit kitchen project soon thanks greazt vids
This is depending on country. Usual in 2 weeks
People interested in Chinese tools should begin saving up some money now. *November* *11th* is the Chinese equivalent of Black Friday, when merchants offer the best prices of the year. If you're looking for something expensive, this is the best time to shop.
Also I'll comment that Banggood is essentially for beginners. Asian artisans will develop relationships with some of the store owners on AliExpress, where a much larger variety of tools is available. Unfortunately AliExpress also is full of scammers, so be cautious.
Have you tried the “square” drill bits they do for drilling mortises?
Hi William, Sorry, no
When you can't get a nice round hole with a conical countersink (model without a drill bit) , just reduce the speed of your drill. Try different speeds to find the right one.
Garry not Linda. Here's a trick to clean up those countersink holes. Countersink at a moderate speed to about the depth you want, stop, reverse the drill and run it for a short time and it will polish off most of the roughness of the chamfer. This is especially helpful in open grained woods.
What did you do at moment 7:11 exactly?
Did you cut the casing away? and just used the drill to be in contact with the machine?
I flatten the end of the drill bit a little. But this is not easy because of the hard material. But by doing this the screw of the orange piece has grip and it will not turn around anymore.
Thanks
The fact that you could file the bit flat does not speak well for the hardness of the drill. As for the plain countersinks with multi flutes, you can always expect chatter and bad results. Single flute countersinks avoid this problem without the need for a center.
Before I looked at the products listed I was wondering who Ben Good was LOL
😀😀
IMHO it is the keyless chuck rather than the drill bit that is the problem. Use a traditional keyed chuck and you won't get slippage like that.
Keyless chucks AREN'T the problem, poorly made cheap keyless chuck however could be. My 18V Dewalt came with a Rohm made steel bodied keyless chuck and it doesn't ever slip. Like anything else you only get the accuracy and performance your willing to pay for. I had one keyed chuck on a Black & Decker corded drill that would slip and burr up every drill shank used in it no matter how much it was tightened. If any chuck slips more than twice and I'm positive it wasn't my error that chuck gets scrapped and replaced with something much better.
While pretty much all the tools shown in this video could be used in a portable drill exactly like the video showed. There really meant and designed to be used in an actual drill press where the spindle stop can be pre set so you get repeatable depth settings. Plus it's easier to also select the proper speeds on just about any drill press verses the almost guessed at speeds on a variable speed hand drill. With any high carbon cutting tools there extremely limited in the exact speed range you can safely operate them at. High carbon cutting tools have about 30% of the allowable speeds that a high speed cutting tool material has. Go above that and due to temperature you'll start to quickly destroy the tools heat treatment. Today virtually every decent tool manufacture no longer produces high carbon cutting tools because of the materials built in issues. I can no longer afford to waste money on cheap cutting tools and simply refuse to buy any more high carbon tools.
Gaaf man 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
I love that you have series dedicated to chinese tools, since I feel there is some real value to be had there, and not enough info and reliable reviews to watch.
I do feel you do not bash low quality items as hard as you should though. This especially aplies to items with glaring design flaws/qc issues that render them almost useless. This orange countersink is perfect example, but I had same impression of you beeing too leniant earlier in the series as well.
Most notably with that t ruler whose double tapering made it obsolete in my eyes. If simply changing my wrist angle due to stretching arms while drawing long line causes marking error larger than tools minimum offset, there is no redeeming quality that would make it worthwhile purchase.
Pointing the flaw out and simply lowering recomendation is not enough imo, especially considering you are providing affiliate links. You are lowering your own credibility, at least in my eyes.
That said I think you are providing quality content and hope to see more videos in the future. I would love to see some clamps reviews myself ... you can never have enough clamps :)
Hi, thanks for your comment. I really appreciate that. I see you choose your words carefully and make your point. I appreciate your nuance.
In some way, I struggle with the same as I review items.
Believe it or not, but the affiliate links have not that much to do with it. But I feel a certain responsibility towards my viewers, but also towards Banggood in this case.
I am relatively precise, have quite a few opportunities to purchase good to excellent equipment tools. From that perspective, it is sometimes difficult to assess a "somewhat less" product. I want the best for myself. But a friend of mine with the same hobby is pleased with it. And then you have the factor price, which is sometimes very low compared to what you get. I find it difficult to compare something against the price when a product is less than I think necessary.
On the other hand, it is very advantageous compared to alternatives, which are not necessarily better. A kind of protection for myself is that I show almost all shortcomings in my videos, with this, the viewer can draw his own conclusions. The T-ruler to which you revert is an example of this. In this video, I indicate that if you are interested, you should see if you can live with these shortcomings. Based on my video and info you can conclude that it is not for you. In fact my goal has then been achieved. If it were all about the money, I wouldn't even bring up the shortcomings.
This is different from the orange drills. In that case, I'm really excited about how sharp and functional they are. If you use them in MDF or soft woods, you probably wouldn't even have a problem. If so, the solution is relatively simple. When such a drill costs 15 euros, it is unacceptable. But for 2 euros that is more nuanced.
I would like to emphasize again that I am very happy with your comment Despite the fact that English is not my native language, I spend a lot of time and attention to choose the right words during my review to give the best possible balanced view of the products I review. The last thing I would like is not to show or minimize weaknesses. If that appears to be the case, it has more to do with how I take the factor price into account.
But I will carefully consider your comments.
Thanks, Dennis
You very big man.... From Italy..... Please sub title... Tank you. 🍻😘
You cant recommend a product because you are using it incorrectly.
When your drill is getting stuck in the wood it is because you are not clearing your chips and you have compressed food fibers increasing friction and heat.
To keep the drills from becoming stuck you need to clear the chips, push the drill down, then while still spinning pull the drill out enough for the flutes to eject the chips and continue drilling.
Hi Jeffrey, thanks for your comment.
I Do not know if you referring to the countersink bit or the drill bit from the latest set. I do agree with you 100%. But I compared it with the other two I showed earlier in the same circumstances. I did not drill it that far into the wood. The other two did not have problems with that in the last drill bit has exactly the same design and got stuck when it was only a few mm in. So, although I still agree with you on how to use the drill machine and bit. I still think it was not that far in the wood to get stuck from the chips.
I have so much apriciation and respect for things made in china, certainly not for Thier corporations whom take advantage of low wage workers. China in the best it's just underrated by cheap ungrateful westerners .
I am very conscience of where everything is made now - if it comes from china, I'm NOT buying.
Never buy rubbish from China, in my experience of 35 years of dealing with tools, the steel in China that they use to make these products is substandard, the look of their stuff is shiny nice but quality is not there compared to tools made elsewhere.