I wished I started this 20 years ago,nice video , I have recently started planting fruit trees,some 2 year olds and several from seed.I have five different crabapple trees now,awesome process
Love the no-till method especially on small parcels like mine in NJ. I look forward to seeing your food plot progress throughout the summer and early fall. Best of luck! Cris
Awesome video and perfect timing for it! I'm going no-till for the kill plot down by the creek this year. Wasn't easy but got it cleared out. Great info. Thanks!
Just planted my first five food plots in my property in Texas trying to change the way this property was managed with nothing but corn Feeders purchase this land 6 months ago and new on hunting deer thanks for all the advice on your videos gracias amigo
Whitetail Habitat Solutions yes amigo excited to get some work at the property I’m in the comercial Roofing business I tell my son in Mexico we never hunted for sport it was to have something in the table for dinner all this is new for me but learning fast
Hello from NY , just purchased your book last night and looking forward to it. I just purchased a small 15 acre property and will be planting my first 1/4 acre food plot using this system. My question is what is the first step after clearing out the plot ? What am I planting first ?
Another great video Jeff! So just to clarify, I have buckwheat in both my plots right now. I’m in north central KY. My plan is to plant my fall plot seeds the first week of August. So should I broadcast, then roll over the buckwheat, then spray GLY? Look forward to each of your videos.
Thank you Jeff. What would be the problem with letting the rye go all summer and then broadcast/roll/spray the fall blend into it like normal in Aug? I’m in mid Missouri.
Hey Jeff, could you incorporate clover with this rotation? If so, would you plant it with the end-of-August/early-September planting? And would anything change with, and prior to, the buckwheat planting? Or should you leave clover out of this type of rotation?
Hey Jeff! I’m planting a 1/2 acre plot along a tree row that’s in between bedding and AG, but I’m unsure what to plant for early season to mid season. I’d like to get something in that may keep a buck or two around before the shift in the very beginning of the season but with such a small plot is this possible without it getting destroyed? What would be the best planting ideas?
Hey Jeff you know where my food plot is located by the cemetery can’t get any farm equipment in there so whatever you decide for this up coming year it must be no plow no till
I have an old clearing that I would like to start this method on but it has grass/weeds chest high. What’s the first step to get this ready to broadcast seed? I have a sprayer, tractor w/ a brush hog, and a skid steer (thought I could use the bucket and back drag to somewhat crimp)
Cultipacker question. Do you prefer the V wheels shown in this video over the notched wheels? And if so why? I'm looking into buying one following your plotting method without any tilling or discing. Thanks
@@beavercreekoutdoors2869 good question Adam! I take an average width and length of the plot to figure it acreage, and then put that amount of required seed in the broadcaster. For example if need 100#s per acre of seed and I figure the plot is a 10,000 square feet out of 43,560 (an acre)...then I will use 25#s. Then the seeding rate I personally go by feel. But best way is to go lighter than you think. I like a hand seeder because you can see and feel how much seed is left. My personal goal is slightly under what I need...never running out of feel. The setting in the bag is really important...but not wasting seed is another. I used to way out all my seeds per plot, but now just go by feel. I know the "by feel" doesn't help...but the point I'd knowing when it is too much. You can always go back over quickly if you have seed leftover...can't go correct too much. Hope that helps a bit Adam!
Great info once again Jeff I have read your books and have enjoyed them all. One quick question , At what time would you plant your rye for your fall plots. If I remember right I believe you talked about putting rye in layers right into your fall plots to create layering of food.
Thank you very much Doug I have always appreciated all of your comments and feedback! I plant my rye in the Upper Midwest area around Labor Day...at least layering it on oats and peas.
Did no-till last year and it worked great, but it was also pretty wet in west michigan. Now this spring when I pull back the thatch, the ground is covered with moss. Just got soil sample back and pH is fine at 6.8. So it looks like the moisture the thatch held in actually was a detriment to the no till for this year? I am guessing I need to do a light till to break up the moss before seeding this year? Otherwise I am afraid it will impede the seed to soil contact. Your thoughts?
I’m doing this exact same strategy on a small 1/4 acre plot. I’m in southeast KY I planted on May 19th and I’ve got 12” tall buckwheat right now. Then come late July/early august I will plant my greens mix of radish, kale, rape, turnip into it for the fall and winter. Would it be best do do it this way like you described ? Or to just mow it down and till and plant the “greens” mix ? I like the idea of not tilling as it will promote weed growth. Just never done it this way and I don’t want it to be a “bust” come this fall. Thanks
I'm from South Carolina and average last frost is April 1 and average first frost is November 1. Because you're using a 2 month rotation for buckwheat, would you recommend replanting buckwheat every 2 months in South Carolina so you can suppress weeds and use the cover crop when it's finally time to plant in fall? The pattern would look something like this.... April 1 plant buckwheat June 1 sow buckwheat into standing buckwheat and cultipack August 1 sow buckwheat into standing buckwheat and cultipack October 1 sow Fall crop of brassica and late peas and beans. Wait one month and over seed established plot with oats wheat or grain rye.
Any chance you can add in diagrams or examples of what the rotation is? Example spring plant this, fall plant this, following spring this etc? I’ve used the rye a bunch but more for cover crop to clover.
Hi Jason I have d lot of explanation in Chapter 12 of my Food Plot book...very detailed explanation in this video...but I have a lot more videos coming very soon ☺️ I hope they make sense!
Does buckwheat grow in the south ? And if not what can I use as a substitute crop? I live in southeast Louisiana so it’s much different than the areas you hunt
Yup haven’t been able to get back up between the crappy weather & now my stepsons wife is expecting any day now my hands are tied so good thing at this polenta I have time on my side lastly how much rye do I put down on each plot
The amount depends on the exact timing of the dozer operator. But roughly 250-300 pounds per acre. You will spread more or less the first time depending on timing...I will help you out then buddy 😉
Jeff, I think I understand the system. In the fall when I plant my legumes or fall blend into the buckwheat or beans, do I also add the rye grain into that mix? Will it regrow in the spring? When should we broadcast our rye grain or wheat in the spring if it does not? Also is crimping or mowing good enough for weed suppression after broadcasting the buckwheat into the rye grass? At what height does the rye grain usually blossom? That might help with crimping or rolling. I know you mentioned 15” but that might be just for broadcasting purposes. If it’s not Can we spray over top the buckwheat that was just broadcasted? I understand that you can with beans that our RR. I am really looking forward to trying your method because of lack of no till drill and ultimately I want to reduce herbicides on my property.
That's great...I hope that it makes sense! I plant my normal crops into the buckwheat...I split my plots. This year will be 100#s of peas per acre on one 1/2, combined with 50#s oats around 8/1. I will follow up on that 1/2 alone with 200#s of rye roughly labor day, just broadcast over the top. On the other half I will use a straight brassica blend, seeded at the same time as the oats and peas on the other 1/2. I will use no rye on that 1/2. After I seed I crush the buckwheat with the cultipacker. Buckwheat and soybeans are the only seed varieties you can effectively do this with...maybe iron clay peas. Buckwheat is perfect tho because the deer don't eat it as much as soybeans during the summer so it is a great smother crop for weed suppression. If weeds are present within the buckwheat I spray gly...gly also keeps the buckwheat from popping back up and shading out food plot forage germination. In the spring I broadcast into the rye (on one 1/2) and into the open ground brassica area on the other 1/2. I like to cut my brassica blend in 1/2 and make up that half by adding 7-8#s of tillage radish into the blend during that 8/1 broadcasting. I spread the buckwheat at 50#s per acre between 7-8 weeks from the time I expect to plant my Fall plots. That timing will determine what I do either rye and any Spring weeds. For example if the rye is 18" high I will broadcast buckwheat and mow, or crush and kill with the cultipacker. I don't have a brush hog...so that means crush and spray. If we have a late spring and the rye is only a foot high like this year...I broadcast and spray. This is the best method (buckwheat/Fall combo planting) for limiting chemicals while still being able to use high quality plants with small to medium equipment, but you still have to spray at least once per year or your efforts will be severely hampered. I just can't stand weedy plots that don't attract anything in November. Ends up a waste of time and you can develop a daily movement then. I sent you an Instagram...hope this all makes sense! So many food plotters trying to not use chemicals with small to medium sized equipment and it isn't practical or effective. Kind of a fad right now based on a lot of inexperienced advice...
Hey Jeff little confused once I get my land bulldozed do I drag it or use chemical since there shouldn’t be very many weeds I hope once he tears up the land to create the plot then was going to add lime then wait approximately 10 days then fertilize & seed please tell me in what order I should do all of this cause this method is the perfect fit for me
Hi Paul...like I said, you will use the layered rye method. You can fertilze/lime/seed on same day. You will not need to drag or spray...which is a good thing 🙂 due to late food plot clearing...
Thanks Jeff. Great video. I hunt in the Alpena MI area. I just planted the fall mix you recommended without the benefit of an earlier buckwheat planting. I plan on planting buckwheat next June. My question has to do with the amount of glyphosate to use. You recommend two quarts per acre. I recently watched a QDMA video where Lindsay Thomas was recommending two ounces per gallon while using a no till method very similar to your planting method. For me the QDMA formula would be 20 ounces versus your 64 ounces per acre. I’ve been using one quart of glyphosate with 10 gallons of water per acre for general burn down. Will more glyphosate burn down faster? Is faster necessary when using your no till planting method? I’ve read a couple of your books and follow you on UA-cam. Thanks for everything, Tom
The amount per gallon doesn't really matter. It is all based upon how fast you can cover the area. In theory if you could apply glyphosate perfectly you wouldn't need any water and could apply 1 ounce to 680 sq. ft. but since that isn't possible you add water to stretch the application. if you are using a backpack sprayer your travel speed will be slower than an atv sprayer but the amount of roundup needed will be the same. This is where the amount per gallon doesnt work because the more efficiently you can apply the less roundup you need per gallon. sorry it is kind of hard to explain.
I’d like to come to Michigan and hunt. I’ve got a lot of kin folk up there. My cousins husband owns a couple auto parts stores up there. I can’t remember where right off now.
This seems like a dumb question but, are you talking about ryegrass or cereal rye? Most people use the word rye for each different plant and can be confusing
Have you always cultipacked ? Is it necessary for your fall plant before spreading the turnip radish mixture or is it seed dependent ? I don’t recall seeing your cultipacker recommendations in the past before your association with packer max. So can it be done by spreading your mixture (add some lbs to mix) before a rainfall ? Or does the cultipacker really make the difference?
Hi Nic...I have used a cultipacker since roughly 2000. My last one was junk. Check the last one out...I wouldn't recommend 😉 ua-cam.com/video/JnGi3Y9MRHs/v-deo.html It is critical with the buckwheat that you seed into it and THEN cultipack the buckwheat over the seed (even the fertilizer although not critical) and spray. If you check it my 2018 best food plot blend you can see us cultipacking too. Just type in "2018 best food plot blend" on UA-cam and it comes up in top. Depending on the planting method needed I have used a cultipacker for 20 years depending on the plot and need. Sometimes not in one state...but in the other 1 or 2 states for my own plots. The Packermaxx is a cultipacker I can stake my reputation on...the one you will see in the videos is not. Had to repair it several times since 2016. It failed the first time out...
Haha that was the one I was maybe going to buy for my Rockier area. So the packer max won’t puncture with the rock ? Didn’t know If you needed too or if a good rain is sufficient. Thanks for the help.
Once the rye is mowed it won’t come back will it brother?????? I’m goin to use some of this can’t afford it all wish I could. I’ve got access to a tractor and turning plow and disc. Plus a bush hog.
Spraying Gly after cultipacking the Buckwheat? Will the gly hit the broad Leafs? Seems like when I’ve planted buckwheat it suppresses most of the weed growth? I started the no till last year, I don’t plant spring, I let the rye and oats go from the previous year but wait until August to replant Rye and oats again. I considered. Adding buckwheat this spring just to get more soil builder in the ground. Think I can still add it? Im in northern lower mi. Traverse City area. My rye is probably 18 -24” inches already but it’s not really that thick. In looking at it I thought I could easily add seed and it would hit the ground. If I planted would I need to cultipack? Just worried I’d kill the rye earlier than I wanted.
Hi Steve! Tough can definitely plant buckwheat...plan for a 7-8 week crop. With your rye that high, I would then cultipack and spray gly...You can also mow the rye but I've found you get better germination rates by cultipacking and spraying. I like spraying the buckwheat because it will kill any shade tolerant low broadleaf weeds and then it also keeps the buckwhest down for an instant death instead of a slow death where some pops back up and you get mixed growth results. I also cultipack the buckwheat twice at that time.
Great info Jeff. When you planted the buckwheat in the standing rye, did you cultipack after mowing or spraying with RU? I think this is a good way to add nutrients to our food plots and possibly reduce our fertilizer expenses. Thanks, Bob
It's a great way Bob and the beauty of buckwheat is that it doesn't have to be covered by soil...just a very solid throw and grow. I did not cultipacker...just sprayed. You should see it now! Dylan and I were filming on Monday, 10 days after throwing it on the ground and it was already 3" high with leaves as big as nickels! Holds moisture too 🙂
Great.....I believe I will plant some for erosion control and green fertilizer. We will spray it in July before we plant our fall plantings in Aug. thanks
@@rfb7117 I think you will enjoy it Bob! Hopefully it won't attract too many does in your area 🙂 I would try it this year for sure. It also germinated extremely fast. Mine was 3" as of Monday...10 days after throwing it on the ground.
Jeff, If I want to start this no till system this spring in Wisconsin in an old prairie currently sitting in junk grasses can I do a spray and burn in spring and then go right in over the burn before a rain with rye and buckwheat and implement the system going forward? I guess I want the best first step to start in existing old field prairie grasses. Thanks In Advance.
Jeff - Great info, we have followed much of it in the last 2-3 years. I am trying to fit 3 crops in this year to build-up poor soil. MId May - Buckwheat..Early July - Buckwheat again.. Mid/Late Aug -Start Fall & Winter plots per your advice. I like you idea to seed, roll, spray for August. However, I am considering very light disk in early July to incorporate the 1st Buckwheat crop into the soil. Would consider disk/seed/roll or seed/disk/roll . Any thoughts or experience? Thanks.
D Holb - Keep the disk, or any other tillage out of the equation. Save the work hours and the fuel, while improving your soil. Otherwise you'll be moving one step forward and one step backward... Keyword to improve ANY soil, mulch, mulch, mulch. And mulch stays on top! That's what you'll want and specially your soil biology wants. Let them do the job they're good at. ;-)
For sure Randy...and then any low broadleafs that made it thru with the covering of buckwheat. I can't stand weeds! I also like the buckwheat to die quickly, insuring good germinated seed to sunlight exposure. Which is why I only recommend letting the Buckwheat go for 7-8 weeks, which sets up the exact late July/August planting timing for your area.
Jeff, do recommend drilling into the buckwheat with a no-till drill then cultipacking / roller crimping? Does that work? I'm concerned that there is too much duff and small seeds won't push through.
Hi San, I do not recommend no till drilling into standing buckwheat. The buckwheat already acts like a 1/4 to 1/2" of soil, so no need to drill. You have to seed into the standing buckwheat, then roll/crush and then spray. All of the seed easily makes it to the top of the soil, and then crushing and killing the buckwheat holds moisture, aids in germination and acts as no till drilling. Drilling on top of the buckwheat will push some seeds... especially small seeds...too deep.
Definately lots of food plotters with too much equipment ☺️ i found I could create the same food plots or better long ago, by parking my tractor. I put over 500 hours on my tractor before I sold it. Far less time spent food plotting too with this method, better soil management, eliminate soil erosion concerns. Just frost seeded Switchgrass by hand yesterday before cold and snow this weekend...just a hand spreader. Quick, easy, cheap and highly effective. My client 2 days ago is likely selling his new tractor 😁
If I broadcast peas or buckwheat the turkeys just eat well for a couple of days. All of these food plot videos everyone says “it works”. I suspect any green field on the edge of a dense woods is going to attract deer. I don’t want deer or try to attract them at all but there are plenty off them.
Hi Tom...really tough call BUT, you definitely want to plant your clover with a cool season cover crop. Here in SW WI I would focus on planting a brassica blend with the planting, same time and mixed together in early August. You can also plant 100#s of oats per acre with the clover...oats are a great Fall cover crop and I have used rye for a clover crop going back to 99. They all work very well!
I would recommend an electric fence setup as well. At half an acre in the middle of the woods it won't have much chance to grow. Once it is established you might have better luck.
Buckwheat works great in OK, but needs half way decent moisture. I look at it as a 2 month smother crop...the same system will work in your area for sure! Again tho...like most plantings drought can hit it hard, but it can get by with a little bit of drought. I've had it stand very well with 9 weeks of less than an inch of rain in the UP of MI...either 99 or 2000, can't remember. Spring planted clover was dead and gone - buckwheat held on.
If I'm starting a new plot can I but buckwheat into standing weeds smash and spray in the spring? In June the weeds will be thick here so I'm worried about the buckwheat getting to the ground, thanks!
Hi John! Rye is gr at to seed into and naturally suppressed weed growth. Weeds in general are tough tho because there is always a worry of the weeds being so thick that seeds do not get into the soil or get enough sunlight to germinate. I would either spray glyphosate ahead of time or at the same time of planting, and then smash. It really depends on the level of weed cover tho. And the particular Spring. This was a cold spring for us so really not a lot of weed growth to worry about. I also got behind on controlling weeds last year with some unplanned planting constraints, so my weeds were worse than normal this year. If you have sparse weeds and you can get your seeds on the soil...it might be a great plan to broadcast, smash and spray. Hope that helps a bit!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks Jeff! I sprayed today, planning in a week to weed eat dead weeds, hand rake them away then seed, I know it's a lot of work but I only have a quarter Acer so I think it might work
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 plot is in southern Indiana, a large amount of ag around. Planing to plant Sweet Feast Brassica Blend from Northwoods, thanks Jeff!
@@johnheitkamp4792 oh I see John...seed that in Sweet Feast and then you can follow up with a broadcasting of rye 4-6 weeks later if it doesn't grow or is heavily consumed.
I'm confused a little. I see that you spray roundup, then it looks like you follow up with planting the seed. Wont this kill the seed. I thought you had to wait 10 days to plant after applying roundup?
Hi Joe I hope this helps 🙂 As soon as Glyphosate hits the ground it is nutralized. There is no residual. It only kills when plants are in full leaf and have already emerged - "post emergence". For example you can soak a small tree or bush before it fully buds out and it will not kill it...it has to be full leaf, and then it will kill. You can soak your seeds with it...it will not kill, they have to be emerged and at full leaf. If you add water from a creek that has soil particles, the gly will not work. It will not effect future growth from anything after you spray, other than what has already emerged. It will not stay in soil and kill later plantings. It will not harm seeds. Been using it since 99, a lot. In lots of different ways. But again it is a post emergent. 2-4D is a post emergent broadleaf-only killer. Simazine or atrazine is a pre emergent killer -you can soak growth with either that has already emerged and it won't kill it. 2-4D has a residual of about 2 weeks in it. Meaning if you spray and then immediately plant beans, buckwheat, peas, clover...it will kill what comes up within that 2 weeks because it has a residual.... glyphosate does not. Simazine and Atrazine stays in the ground for up to 60 days.
I wish I could tell you more...but whatever is st the feed mill. Usually around $40 or less for 2.5 gallons. I'm on a client trip in MI til next Thursday still or I would go check to make sure for you...I recognized the generic name (41% glyphosate), but just can't remember
When you say rye, do you mean winter rye or rye grass... not sure if they’re the same thing or not. 😅.... also I have a PH of about 5.4 or so (and I do need to apply fertilizer to get the proper nutrients to an adequate level). Will the rye and the buckwheat grow in these conditions (before I add lime and fertilizer) and will these plantings bring up my nutrient levels?
How about just planting the buckwheat on the brassica side of the plot and just mowing the rye from last years cereal side of the plot. I guess I would mow whenever the rye reaches 10-12 inches. This would save money on buckwheat seed and fertilizer, but cost some money on fuel for mowing. Then just kill it all with glyphosate for the fall planting.
The buckwheat is critical for a Summer smother crop and then gives you the incredible option of being able to seed into and then cultipack over any seed that you want during the late Summer. No tilling, discing, etc. Also buckwheat is an outstanding soil builder all by itself. Don't have to mow or use any expensive planting equipment outside of a cultipacker, ATV, ATV sprayer and hand held broadcaster. Perfected this process back in the early 2000s...works very well and you never have to even own a tractor. I stopped using my tractor for food plotting the last few years that I owned it.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Yup, the soil builder part is probably the best reason. Buckwheat is a forb so it breaks up the nitrogen sucking cycle of the grains and brassicas. By my calculation, the cereal side would have heavy nitrogen users continuously for 21 months. August, year 1 - beans and peas (legume) and oats (nitrogen user); September, year 1 - overseed with rye (nitrogen user); August, year 2 - kill rye and plant brassica (nitrogen user); May, year 2 - plant buckwhear.
Everywhere I planted, even after spraying, ragweed is the dominant plant. According to QDMA, deer like ragweed, so I think I’ll just leave it and see what happens. Definitely would be more cost effective. Just disturb the soil a bit and voila. Ragweed! No seeds no fertilizer, no chemicals.
The only bad thing? Ragweed does nothing for the deer herd in the Fall...creating, building, advancing, protecting a herd thru the Fall. Just a Summer food source. Deer have 5 times more food than they need in the Summer...ragweeed does nothing for the local deer herd in terms of a hunt, a herd, a quality food source...it lays down and dies for the Fall. I hope that makes sense? Ragweed is a decent summer forage, but then is not available for the Fall and Winter when deer need for she the most. Do not count on ragweed Or clover. Or alfalfa. Or golden rod. Or soybeans. Sounds good on paper but if it isn't providing forage during the Fall and Winter, then it is useless...
Whitetail Habitat Solutions I’m going to let it get a little taller and bush hog it before develops mature seeds. This ragweed seems very resistant to herbicide. I think it feeds on glyphosate. It came up where I used roundup to kill fescue.
@@michaelneely4185 ragweed is just one weed they like, especially when young. Golden rod too...briars and many more. Been killing it for years tho...may have been a timing issue? Dies fairly easily. Killed about 9 acres that had it mixed in last year. Not a smother crop...mixed mid value food source. Bad thing is that you have to use heavier equipment to mage it St the end of summer...disc or tiller, or drill. Are should be sprayed before disc and tiller...and certainly a no till, or you plots will be full of weeds. Some of those weeds deer like for sire but they do not like those weeds in late Sept, October, November, December, etc. So they take from the important cool season food plot varieties to diminish the overall value of of your food plots as they relate to building a quality herd and hunt. What the Ultimate No Till system is all a out, is using minimal equipment, 1-2 sprayings and very high quality plantings to build a quality Fall herd and hunt. To mold and shape the deer herd and to have high quality diverse food on small properties. I hope that makes sense? Ragweed is something you have to manage...low cost, yes...very low impact to helping you build a herd and hunt too 😉 Hope that makes sense...
This year (for my personal plots which may be different than yours) I will be planting 100#s of peas, 30-40#s of oats and at least 25#s of beans per acre on one half of the plots late July and then on the other 1/2 I will add a brassica blend. On the pea, oat and bean 1/2 I will broadcast 200#s per acre of rye grain around Labor day....I leave the brassica side alone. I hope that makes sense?
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 ok I tagged you on Instagram. Got my Egyptian Wheat in today and got to get it sowed in the rain. Thanks for secret weapon.
@@Grizzlife you are very welcome Grizz...that's awesome I will check it out. Just finished with my first MI client...6 clients in 7 days. Now answering UA-cam comments and cramming in a dinner 🙂 I do love what I do...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I'm sure you do!😁😁😂I've applied your methods and my years of experience to 200 acres. I'm in West Tennessee so it will be work. But we have good genetics. Thanks again
To be clear, all you're doing at this time of year is broadcasting 50#/a of buckwheat into standing rye (planted the fall of the previous year), rolling/cultipacking the seed and then spraying (rye) with 2 qt/a of Gly? Talking about the future food plot blends (~2 months down the road) had me confused the first couple of times through the video. If one was starting now assuming with bare/weed free soil, one would broadcast buckwheat and roll/cultipack? I like the idea of a 'smother crop' vs letting things sit idle until late summer - early Fall.
Yes John, definitely. You really don't even have to cultipack the buckwheat right now...I didn't. However, inlet the timing of the buckwheat determine when I plant. Meaning, I don't want to allow the buckwheat to grow for more than 2 months. That means I plant buckwheat 7-8 weeks prior to my intended cool season annual blend. If there has been an early Spring, the rye may be a foot taller...even 15" taller than this Spring. That means I would seed buckwheat, then cultipack to crush the rye down and then spray gly. This year the rye was only a foot high...so I just seeded and sprayed. If it was 18"+ I would seed, spray and cultipack. Hope that makes sense! I like 7-8 weeks of growth on the buckwheat so that it doesn't get 4-5' tall with a lot of debris and tough to walk thru...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 hey jeff thx for vid, but i was confused too....must be a john thing lol. So does this ever transition to another type of plot like a clover or hickory? and if so is it done by seeding on top of the rye or would it be the buckwheat,spray and cultpk? And if so what dates for southern mi....btw i have bought your first book book....
Not even close...I had this published in my food plot book in 2014 (chapter 12), and articles back to the 2000s. Check out my no till soybean planting from 2014...sound familiar? Been doing this since the early 2000s...way before Growing Deer 😉 Also well published well before. www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/no-till-bean-plot-for-whitetails In fact if you just type in "No Till Soybeans For Deer", that 2014 article comes right up on top...
Whitetail Habitat Solutions. It is there yes but growing Deer has been studying it for longer and has done it for longer. And they are perfecting it every year
Hey Jeff! I’m planting a 1/2 acre plot along a tree row that’s in between bedding and AG, but I’m unsure what to plant for early season to mid season. I’d like to get something in that may keep a buck or two around before the shift in the very beginning of the season but with such a small plot is this possible without it getting destroyed? What would be the best planting ideas?
I wished I started this 20 years ago,nice video , I have recently started planting fruit trees,some 2 year olds and several from seed.I have five different crabapple trees now,awesome process
Love the no-till method especially on small parcels like mine in NJ. I look forward to seeing your food plot progress throughout the summer and early fall. Best of luck! Cris
Thank you Cris! It is a great system...and man, I can't wait to bring it to you this food plot season! Are you going to try it?
Absolutely Sir.
Awesome video and perfect timing for it! I'm going no-till for the kill plot down by the creek this year. Wasn't easy but got it cleared out. Great info. Thanks!
That's great to hear Chris...good luck and enjoy planting 🙂 Let me know how the plot goes too!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 👍
Great show!!
Thanks a lot William, really appreciate it!
BTW I am not sponsored by Yeti 🙂 throat was really scratchy with Spring allergies...
Thanks brother be safe GOD BLESS.
You are welcome Randle!
Great video as always brother. We have to much sage grass here and clay to.
I've seen that down your way!
Just planted my first five food plots in my property in Texas trying to change the way this property was managed with nothing but corn Feeders purchase this land 6 months ago and new on hunting deer thanks for all the advice on your videos gracias amigo
Man you are so welcome Hernan...I hope you really enjoy the year! Thank you very much. I bet you are pretty excited!?
Whitetail Habitat Solutions yes amigo excited to get some work at the property I’m in the comercial Roofing business I tell my son in Mexico we never hunted for sport it was to have something in the table for dinner all this is new for me but learning fast
Ty you so much
You are welcome Paul...at least you have a couple of months to plan 🙂
Hello from NY , just purchased your book last night and looking forward to it. I just purchased a small 15 acre property and will be planting my first 1/4 acre food plot using this system. My question is what is the first step after clearing out the plot ? What am I planting first ?
Another great video Jeff! So just to clarify, I have buckwheat in both my plots right now. I’m in north central KY. My plan is to plant my fall plot seeds the first week of August. So should I broadcast, then roll over the buckwheat, then spray GLY? Look forward to each of your videos.
Thank you Jeff. What would be the problem with letting the rye go all summer and then broadcast/roll/spray the fall blend into it like normal in Aug? I’m in mid Missouri.
Hey Jeff, could you incorporate clover with this rotation? If so, would you plant it with the end-of-August/early-September planting? And would anything change with, and prior to, the buckwheat planting? Or should you leave clover out of this type of rotation?
Hey Jeff!
I’m planting a 1/2 acre plot along a tree row that’s in between bedding and AG, but I’m unsure what to plant for early season to mid season. I’d like to get something in that may keep a buck or two around before the shift in the very beginning of the season but with such a small plot is this possible without it getting destroyed? What would be the best planting ideas?
Hey Jeff you know where my food plot is located by the cemetery can’t get any farm equipment in there so whatever you decide for this up coming year it must be no plow no till
Hey brother. I’m late watching as usual lollllll.
Ha, no worries! I was on a client parcel all day so been very busy all day...
I have an old clearing that I would like to start this method on but it has grass/weeds chest high. What’s the first step to get this ready to broadcast seed? I have a sprayer, tractor w/ a brush hog, and a skid steer (thought I could use the bucket and back drag to somewhat crimp)
Cultipacker question. Do you prefer the V wheels shown in this video over the notched wheels? And if so why? I'm looking into buying one following your plotting method without any tilling or discing. Thanks
Definitely trying this this wknd
As long as you get buckwheat on soil...always grows extremely well!
I think it will get down there.. as long as its dry we should b gd just been SO wet.
Whats the best way to determine how much seed to use on smaller plots
@@beavercreekoutdoors2869 good question Adam! I take an average width and length of the plot to figure it acreage, and then put that amount of required seed in the broadcaster. For example if need 100#s per acre of seed and I figure the plot is a 10,000 square feet out of 43,560 (an acre)...then I will use 25#s.
Then the seeding rate I personally go by feel. But best way is to go lighter than you think. I like a hand seeder because you can see and feel how much seed is left. My personal goal is slightly under what I need...never running out of feel. The setting in the bag is really important...but not wasting seed is another. I used to way out all my seeds per plot, but now just go by feel. I know the "by feel" doesn't help...but the point I'd knowing when it is too much. You can always go back over quickly if you have seed leftover...can't go correct too much.
Hope that helps a bit Adam!
@@beavercreekoutdoors2869 seems it is never perfect!
Great info once again Jeff I have read your books and have enjoyed them all. One quick question , At what time would you plant your rye for your fall plots. If I remember right I believe you talked about putting rye in layers right into your fall plots to create layering of food.
Thank you very much Doug I have always appreciated all of your comments and feedback! I plant my rye in the Upper Midwest area around Labor Day...at least layering it on oats and peas.
Did no-till last year and it worked great, but it was also pretty wet in west michigan. Now this spring when I pull back the thatch, the ground is covered with moss. Just got soil sample back and pH is fine at 6.8. So it looks like the moisture the thatch held in actually was a detriment to the no till for this year? I am guessing I need to do a light till to break up the moss before seeding this year? Otherwise I am afraid it will impede the seed to soil contact. Your thoughts?
This will be for August planting
Yes Tom, for sure...I may even hit it by late July, I like the buckwheat to get 2-3' tall...not 4-5'. Hard to walk thru to seed into 🙂
I’m doing this exact same strategy on a small 1/4 acre plot. I’m in southeast KY I planted on May 19th and I’ve got 12” tall buckwheat right now. Then come late July/early august I will plant my greens mix of radish, kale, rape, turnip into it for the fall and winter. Would it be best do do it this way like you described ? Or to just mow it down and till and plant the “greens” mix ? I like the idea of not tilling as it will promote weed growth. Just never done it this way and I don’t want it to be a “bust” come this fall. Thanks
What would rotation times be for a plot in the south? Louisiana/Mississippi
Jeff have you ever used any of these no-till food plots mossy oak biologic or whitetail institute?
I'm from South Carolina and average last frost is April 1 and average first frost is November 1. Because you're using a 2 month rotation for buckwheat, would you recommend replanting buckwheat every 2 months in South Carolina so you can suppress weeds and use the cover crop when it's finally time to plant in fall?
The pattern would look something like this....
April 1 plant buckwheat
June 1 sow buckwheat into standing buckwheat and cultipack
August 1 sow buckwheat into standing buckwheat and cultipack
October 1 sow Fall crop of brassica and late peas and beans. Wait one month and over seed established plot with oats wheat or grain rye.
Can you follow the buckwheat with radish or turnips?
How does this work with a fall clover planting
Any chance you can add in diagrams or examples of what the rotation is? Example spring plant this, fall plant this, following spring this etc? I’ve used the rye a bunch but more for cover crop to clover.
Hi Jason I have d lot of explanation in Chapter 12 of my Food Plot book...very detailed explanation in this video...but I have a lot more videos coming very soon ☺️ I hope they make sense!
Does buckwheat grow in the south ? And if not what can I use as a substitute crop? I live in southeast Louisiana so it’s much different than the areas you hunt
Yup haven’t been able to get back up between the crappy weather & now my stepsons wife is expecting any day now my hands are tied so good thing at this polenta I have time on my side lastly how much rye do I put down on each plot
The amount depends on the exact timing of the dozer operator. But roughly 250-300 pounds per acre. You will spread more or less the first time depending on timing...I will help you out then buddy 😉
What setting on your spreader do yo use to achieve the 50lbs/acre
Jeff, I think I understand the system. In the fall when I plant my legumes or fall blend into the buckwheat or beans, do I also add the rye grain into that mix? Will it regrow in the spring? When should we broadcast our rye grain or wheat in the spring if it does not?
Also is crimping or mowing good enough for weed suppression after broadcasting the buckwheat into the rye grass? At what height does the rye grain usually blossom? That might help with crimping or rolling. I know you mentioned 15” but that might be just for broadcasting purposes. If it’s not Can we spray over top the buckwheat that was just broadcasted? I understand that you can with beans that our RR.
I am really looking forward to trying your method because of lack of no till drill and ultimately I want to reduce herbicides on my property.
That's great...I hope that it makes sense!
I plant my normal crops into the buckwheat...I split my plots. This year will be 100#s of peas per acre on one 1/2, combined with 50#s oats around 8/1. I will follow up on that 1/2 alone with 200#s of rye roughly labor day, just broadcast over the top. On the other half I will use a straight brassica blend, seeded at the same time as the oats and peas on the other 1/2. I will use no rye on that 1/2. After I seed I crush the buckwheat with the cultipacker. Buckwheat and soybeans are the only seed varieties you can effectively do this with...maybe iron clay peas. Buckwheat is perfect tho because the deer don't eat it as much as soybeans during the summer so it is a great smother crop for weed suppression. If weeds are present within the buckwheat I spray gly...gly also keeps the buckwheat from popping back up and shading out food plot forage germination.
In the spring I broadcast into the rye (on one 1/2) and into the open ground brassica area on the other 1/2. I like to cut my brassica blend in 1/2 and make up that half by adding 7-8#s of tillage radish into the blend during that 8/1 broadcasting.
I spread the buckwheat at 50#s per acre between 7-8 weeks from the time I expect to plant my Fall plots. That timing will determine what I do either rye and any Spring weeds. For example if the rye is 18" high I will broadcast buckwheat and mow, or crush and kill with the cultipacker. I don't have a brush hog...so that means crush and spray. If we have a late spring and the rye is only a foot high like this year...I broadcast and spray.
This is the best method (buckwheat/Fall combo planting) for limiting chemicals while still being able to use high quality plants with small to medium equipment, but you still have to spray at least once per year or your efforts will be severely hampered. I just can't stand weedy plots that don't attract anything in November. Ends up a waste of time and you can develop a daily movement then.
I sent you an Instagram...hope this all makes sense! So many food plotters trying to not use chemicals with small to medium sized equipment and it isn't practical or effective. Kind of a fad right now based on a lot of inexperienced advice...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 will this method you just explained work in upstate ny?
Hey Jeff little confused once I get my land bulldozed do I drag it or use chemical since there shouldn’t be very many weeds I hope once he tears up the land to create the plot then was going to add lime then wait approximately 10 days then fertilize & seed please tell me in what order I should do all of this cause this method is the perfect fit for me
Hi Paul...like I said, you will use the layered rye method. You can fertilze/lime/seed on same day. You will not need to drag or spray...which is a good thing 🙂 due to late food plot clearing...
Thanks Jeff. Great video. I hunt in the Alpena MI area. I just planted the fall mix you recommended without the benefit of an earlier buckwheat planting. I plan on planting buckwheat next June.
My question has to do with the amount of glyphosate to use. You recommend two quarts per acre. I recently watched a QDMA video where Lindsay Thomas was recommending two ounces per gallon while using a no till method very similar to your planting method. For me the QDMA formula would be 20 ounces versus your 64 ounces per acre. I’ve been using one quart of glyphosate with 10 gallons of water per acre for general burn down. Will more glyphosate burn down faster? Is faster necessary when using your no till planting method?
I’ve read a couple of your books and follow you on UA-cam.
Thanks for everything,
Tom
The amount per gallon doesn't really matter. It is all based upon how fast you can cover the area. In theory if you could apply glyphosate perfectly you wouldn't need any water and could apply 1 ounce to 680 sq. ft. but since that isn't possible you add water to stretch the application.
if you are using a backpack sprayer your travel speed will be slower than an atv sprayer but the amount of roundup needed will be the same. This is where the amount per gallon doesnt work because the more efficiently you can apply the less roundup you need per gallon.
sorry it is kind of hard to explain.
I’d like to come to Michigan and hunt. I’ve got a lot of kin folk up there. My cousins husband owns a couple auto parts stores up there. I can’t remember where right off now.
I usually try to hunt at least gun season in MI...
This seems like a dumb question but, are you talking about ryegrass or cereal rye? Most people use the word rye for each different plant and can be confusing
I am in Texas does Buckwheat work in Texas
Ok thanks again I will reach out when it is actually being bulldozed & you can advise me then
Or just before...just keep me posted!
Have you always cultipacked ? Is it necessary for your fall plant before spreading the turnip radish mixture or is it seed dependent ?
I don’t recall seeing your cultipacker recommendations in the past before your association with packer max.
So can it be done by spreading your mixture (add some lbs to mix) before a rainfall ?
Or does the cultipacker really make the difference?
Hi Nic...I have used a cultipacker since roughly 2000. My last one was junk. Check the last one out...I wouldn't recommend 😉
ua-cam.com/video/JnGi3Y9MRHs/v-deo.html
It is critical with the buckwheat that you seed into it and THEN cultipack the buckwheat over the seed (even the fertilizer although not critical) and spray. If you check it my 2018 best food plot blend you can see us cultipacking too. Just type in "2018 best food plot blend" on UA-cam and it comes up in top. Depending on the planting method needed I have used a cultipacker for 20 years depending on the plot and need. Sometimes not in one state...but in the other 1 or 2 states for my own plots. The Packermaxx is a cultipacker I can stake my reputation on...the one you will see in the videos is not. Had to repair it several times since 2016. It failed the first time out...
Haha that was the one I was maybe going to buy for my Rockier area. So the packer max won’t puncture with the rock ? Didn’t know If you needed too or if a good rain is sufficient.
Thanks for the help.
Once the rye is mowed it won’t come back will it brother?????? I’m goin to use some of this can’t afford it all wish I could. I’ve got access to a tractor and turning plow and disc. Plus a bush hog.
Once the rye is mowed in the spring it won't come back...for sure Randle!
Spraying Gly after cultipacking the Buckwheat? Will the gly hit the broad Leafs? Seems like when I’ve planted buckwheat it suppresses most of the weed growth? I started the no till last year, I don’t plant spring, I let the rye and oats go from the previous year but wait until August to replant Rye and oats again. I considered. Adding buckwheat this spring just to get more soil builder in the ground. Think I can still add it? Im in northern lower mi. Traverse City area. My rye is probably 18 -24” inches already but it’s not really that thick. In looking at it I thought I could easily add seed and it would hit the ground. If I planted would I need to cultipack? Just worried I’d kill the rye earlier than I wanted.
Hi Steve! Tough can definitely plant buckwheat...plan for a 7-8 week crop. With your rye that high, I would then cultipack and spray gly...You can also mow the rye but I've found you get better germination rates by cultipacking and spraying.
I like spraying the buckwheat because it will kill any shade tolerant low broadleaf weeds and then it also keeps the buckwhest down for an instant death instead of a slow death where some pops back up and you get mixed growth results. I also cultipack the buckwheat twice at that time.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 i'll give it a try thanks Jeff
Great info Jeff.
When you planted the buckwheat in the standing rye, did you cultipack after mowing or spraying with RU? I think this is a good way to add nutrients to our food plots and possibly reduce our fertilizer expenses.
Thanks, Bob
It's a great way Bob and the beauty of buckwheat is that it doesn't have to be covered by soil...just a very solid throw and grow. I did not cultipacker...just sprayed. You should see it now! Dylan and I were filming on Monday, 10 days after throwing it on the ground and it was already 3" high with leaves as big as nickels! Holds moisture too 🙂
Great.....I believe I will plant some for erosion control and green fertilizer. We will spray it in July before we plant our fall plantings in Aug.
thanks
@@rfb7117 I think you will enjoy it Bob! Hopefully it won't attract too many does in your area 🙂 I would try it this year for sure. It also germinated extremely fast. Mine was 3" as of Monday...10 days after throwing it on the ground.
Jeff, If I want to start this no till system this spring in Wisconsin in an old prairie currently sitting in junk grasses can I do a spray and burn in spring and then go right in over the burn before a rain with rye and buckwheat and implement the system going forward? I guess I want the best first step to start in existing old field prairie grasses. Thanks In Advance.
what kind of rye are you talking about .sorry not familiar with the except for rye grass and where do you get rye seed jeff?
Hi Steve Rye grain... similar to wheat. I get mine at the local feed mills.
thanks.appreciate it.ill look into it.
@@stevestarkey6183 wheat can be used as a substitute for sure...
Jeff - Great info, we have followed much of it in the last 2-3 years. I am trying to fit 3 crops in this year to build-up poor soil. MId May - Buckwheat..Early July - Buckwheat again.. Mid/Late Aug -Start Fall & Winter plots per your advice. I like you idea to seed, roll, spray for August. However, I am considering very light disk in early July to incorporate the 1st Buckwheat crop into the soil. Would consider disk/seed/roll or seed/disk/roll . Any thoughts or experience? Thanks.
D Holb - Keep the disk, or any other tillage out of the equation. Save the work hours and the fuel, while improving your soil.
Otherwise you'll be moving one step forward and one step backward...
Keyword to improve ANY soil, mulch, mulch, mulch. And mulch stays on top!
That's what you'll want and specially your soil biology wants. Let them do the job they're good at. ;-)
disc seed roll
So you broadcast your seed, roll over your grass or Buckwheat then you spray Glyphosate to ensure the grass or buckwheat is terminated.
For sure Randy...and then any low broadleafs that made it thru with the covering of buckwheat. I can't stand weeds! I also like the buckwheat to die quickly, insuring good germinated seed to sunlight exposure. Which is why I only recommend letting the Buckwheat go for 7-8 weeks, which sets up the exact late July/August planting timing for your area.
Jeff, do recommend drilling into the buckwheat with a no-till drill then cultipacking / roller crimping? Does that work? I'm concerned that there is too much duff and small seeds won't push through.
Hi San, I do not recommend no till drilling into standing buckwheat. The buckwheat already acts like a 1/4 to 1/2" of soil, so no need to drill. You have to seed into the standing buckwheat, then roll/crush and then spray. All of the seed easily makes it to the top of the soil, and then crushing and killing the buckwheat holds moisture, aids in germination and acts as no till drilling. Drilling on top of the buckwheat will push some seeds... especially small seeds...too deep.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Sounds like equipment is your enemy with this. Thanks.
Definately lots of food plotters with too much equipment ☺️ i found I could create the same food plots or better long ago, by parking my tractor. I put over 500 hours on my tractor before I sold it. Far less time spent food plotting too with this method, better soil management, eliminate soil erosion concerns. Just frost seeded Switchgrass by hand yesterday before cold and snow this weekend...just a hand spreader. Quick, easy, cheap and highly effective. My client 2 days ago is likely selling his new tractor 😁
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 How do you get to bare dirt to frost seed without equipment? Fire or another method??
So you’re saying to seed, spray, then roll?.... if I’m trying to establish plots from scratch, could I spray, seed, then roll
Did that end up working for you?
Will do say hi to Diane for us
Thanks guys I will do that!
If I broadcast peas or buckwheat the turkeys just eat well for a couple of days. All of these food plot videos everyone says “it works”. I suspect any green field on the edge of a dense woods is going to attract deer. I don’t want deer or try to attract them at all but there are plenty off them.
Jeff hey I would like to plant clover on a 1/2 acre plot.should I add anything in with it.its in the middle of the woods
Hi Tom...really tough call BUT, you definitely want to plant your clover with a cool season cover crop. Here in SW WI I would focus on planting a brassica blend with the planting, same time and mixed together in early August. You can also plant 100#s of oats per acre with the clover...oats are a great Fall cover crop and I have used rye for a clover crop going back to 99. They all work very well!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thank you jeff
@@TS-nb9ko you are welcome Tom!
I would recommend an electric fence setup as well. At half an acre in the middle of the woods it won't have much chance to grow. Once it is established you might have better luck.
Thanks
Will these plants work in central oklahoma?
Buckwheat works great in OK, but needs half way decent moisture. I look at it as a 2 month smother crop...the same system will work in your area for sure! Again tho...like most plantings drought can hit it hard, but it can get by with a little bit of drought. I've had it stand very well with 9 weeks of less than an inch of rain in the UP of MI...either 99 or 2000, can't remember. Spring planted clover was dead and gone - buckwheat held on.
If I'm starting a new plot can I but buckwheat into standing weeds smash and spray in the spring? In June the weeds will be thick here so I'm worried about the buckwheat getting to the ground, thanks!
Hi John! Rye is gr at to seed into and naturally suppressed weed growth. Weeds in general are tough tho because there is always a worry of the weeds being so thick that seeds do not get into the soil or get enough sunlight to germinate. I would either spray glyphosate ahead of time or at the same time of planting, and then smash. It really depends on the level of weed cover tho. And the particular Spring. This was a cold spring for us so really not a lot of weed growth to worry about. I also got behind on controlling weeds last year with some unplanned planting constraints, so my weeds were worse than normal this year. If you have sparse weeds and you can get your seeds on the soil...it might be a great plan to broadcast, smash and spray.
Hope that helps a bit!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks Jeff! I sprayed today, planning in a week to weed eat dead weeds, hand rake them away then seed, I know it's a lot of work but I only have a quarter Acer so I think it might work
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 plot is in southern Indiana, a large amount of ag around. Planing to plant Sweet Feast Brassica Blend from Northwoods, thanks Jeff!
@@johnheitkamp4792 that sounds really good John. Make sure to get the blend planted on the other side...oats, peas, late beans...some rye later.
@@johnheitkamp4792 oh I see John...seed that in Sweet Feast and then you can follow up with a broadcasting of rye 4-6 weeks later if it doesn't grow or is heavily consumed.
I'm confused a little. I see that you spray roundup, then it looks like you follow up with planting the seed. Wont this kill the seed. I thought you had to wait 10 days to plant after applying roundup?
Hi Joe I hope this helps 🙂
As soon as Glyphosate hits the ground it is nutralized. There is no residual. It only kills when plants are in full leaf and have already emerged - "post emergence". For example you can soak a small tree or bush before it fully buds out and it will not kill it...it has to be full leaf, and then it will kill. You can soak your seeds with it...it will not kill, they have to be emerged and at full leaf. If you add water from a creek that has soil particles, the gly will not work. It will not effect future growth from anything after you spray, other than what has already emerged. It will not stay in soil and kill later plantings. It will not harm seeds. Been using it since 99, a lot. In lots of different ways. But again it is a post emergent. 2-4D is a post emergent broadleaf-only killer. Simazine or atrazine is a pre emergent killer -you can soak growth with either that has already emerged and it won't kill it. 2-4D has a residual of about 2 weeks in it. Meaning if you spray and then immediately plant beans, buckwheat, peas, clover...it will kill what comes up within that 2 weeks because it has a residual.... glyphosate does not. Simazine and Atrazine stays in the ground for up to 60 days.
I'm a really going to spray Gly and seed at the same time right now this very minute 😉
Thanks for the help and quick reply
Hey Jeff what brand glyphosate do you use?
I wish I could tell you more...but whatever is st the feed mill. Usually around $40 or less for 2.5 gallons. I'm on a client trip in MI til next Thursday still or I would go check to make sure for you...I recognized the generic name (41% glyphosate), but just can't remember
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I found some at my local Tractor Supply store. Thanks
When you say rye, do you mean winter rye or rye grass... not sure if they’re the same thing or not. 😅.... also I have a PH of about 5.4 or so (and I do need to apply fertilizer to get the proper nutrients to an adequate level). Will the rye and the buckwheat grow in these conditions (before I add lime and fertilizer) and will these plantings bring up my nutrient levels?
It will build organic mater. And hold the nitrogen. The plot with have trouble using that nitrogen until PH level goes up
william lasure thank you!
How about just planting the buckwheat on the brassica side of the plot and just mowing the rye from last years cereal side of the plot. I guess I would mow whenever the rye reaches 10-12 inches. This would save money on buckwheat seed and fertilizer, but cost some money on fuel for mowing. Then just kill it all with glyphosate for the fall planting.
The buckwheat is critical for a Summer smother crop and then gives you the incredible option of being able to seed into and then cultipack over any seed that you want during the late Summer. No tilling, discing, etc. Also buckwheat is an outstanding soil builder all by itself. Don't have to mow or use any expensive planting equipment outside of a cultipacker, ATV, ATV sprayer and hand held broadcaster. Perfected this process back in the early 2000s...works very well and you never have to even own a tractor. I stopped using my tractor for food plotting the last few years that I owned it.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Yup, the soil builder part is probably the best reason. Buckwheat is a forb so it breaks up the nitrogen sucking cycle of the grains and brassicas. By my calculation, the cereal side would have heavy nitrogen users continuously for 21 months. August, year 1 - beans and peas (legume) and oats (nitrogen user); September, year 1 - overseed with rye (nitrogen user); August, year 2 - kill rye and plant brassica (nitrogen user); May, year 2 - plant buckwhear.
Everywhere I planted, even after spraying, ragweed is the dominant plant. According to QDMA, deer like ragweed, so I think I’ll just leave it and see what happens. Definitely would be more cost effective. Just disturb the soil a bit and voila. Ragweed! No seeds no fertilizer, no chemicals.
The only bad thing? Ragweed does nothing for the deer herd in the Fall...creating, building, advancing, protecting a herd thru the Fall. Just a Summer food source. Deer have 5 times more food than they need in the Summer...ragweeed does nothing for the local deer herd in terms of a hunt, a herd, a quality food source...it lays down and dies for the Fall. I hope that makes sense? Ragweed is a decent summer forage, but then is not available for the Fall and Winter when deer need for she the most. Do not count on ragweed
Or clover. Or alfalfa. Or golden rod. Or soybeans. Sounds good on paper but if it isn't providing forage during the Fall and Winter, then it is useless...
Whitetail Habitat Solutions so maybe in August knock down the ragweed and plant fall mix with tubers, etc
@@michaelneely4185 I would actually knock it down much...it doesn't do much for whitetail right now. Try following the Ultimate No Till plan...
Whitetail Habitat Solutions I’m going to let it get a little taller and bush hog it before develops mature seeds. This ragweed seems very resistant to herbicide. I think it feeds on glyphosate. It came up where I used roundup to kill fescue.
@@michaelneely4185 ragweed is just one weed they like, especially when young. Golden rod too...briars and many more. Been killing it for years tho...may have been a timing issue? Dies fairly easily. Killed about 9 acres that had it mixed in last year. Not a smother crop...mixed mid value food source. Bad thing is that you have to use heavier equipment to mage it St the end of summer...disc or tiller, or drill. Are should be sprayed before disc and tiller...and certainly a no till, or you plots will be full of weeds. Some of those weeds deer like for sire but they do not like those weeds in late Sept, October, November, December, etc. So they take from the important cool season food plot varieties to diminish the overall value of of your food plots as they relate to building a quality herd and hunt.
What the Ultimate No Till system is all a out, is using minimal equipment, 1-2 sprayings and very high quality plantings to build a quality Fall herd and hunt. To mold and shape the deer herd and to have high quality diverse food on small properties. I hope that makes sense? Ragweed is something you have to manage...low cost, yes...very low impact to helping you build a herd and hunt too 😉 Hope that makes sense...
When you do this do you add rye to both side of the plots or just the brassica side?
This year (for my personal plots which may be different than yours) I will be planting 100#s of peas, 30-40#s of oats and at least 25#s of beans per acre on one half of the plots late July and then on the other 1/2 I will add a brassica blend. On the pea, oat and bean 1/2 I will broadcast 200#s per acre of rye grain around Labor day....I leave the brassica side alone.
I hope that makes sense?
So when spring comes and I want to add buckwheat to the standing rye what do I do with the brassica side?
@@brandonclashofclans1565 you can just throw the seed on the open soil around 6/2 with moisture in the forecast...works extremely well.
Not sure why it sent 3 times sorry about that. Sounds great thank you very much!
@@brandonclashofclans1565 ha, no problem at all Brandon, and you are very welcome!
Do you fertilize when you reseed?
Oh for sure Griz...typically at the same time I seed, and prior to cultipacking the Buckwheat.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 ok I tagged you on Instagram. Got my Egyptian Wheat in today and got to get it sowed in the rain. Thanks for secret weapon.
@@Grizzlife you are very welcome Grizz...that's awesome I will check it out. Just finished with my first MI client...6 clients in 7 days. Now answering UA-cam comments and cramming in a dinner 🙂 I do love what I do...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I'm sure you do!😁😁😂I've applied your methods and my years of experience to 200 acres. I'm in West Tennessee so it will be work. But we have good genetics. Thanks again
@@Grizzlife it is so much work Grizz...but amazing how much luck you can create with a lot of work, lol
You lost weight! God job...
Thank you Anna 🙂
To be clear, all you're doing at this time of year is broadcasting 50#/a of buckwheat into standing rye (planted the fall of the previous year), rolling/cultipacking the seed and then spraying (rye) with 2 qt/a of Gly? Talking about the future food plot blends (~2 months down the road) had me confused the first couple of times through the video.
If one was starting now assuming with bare/weed free soil, one would broadcast buckwheat and roll/cultipack? I like the idea of a 'smother crop' vs letting things sit idle until late summer - early Fall.
Yes John, definitely. You really don't even have to cultipack the buckwheat right now...I didn't. However, inlet the timing of the buckwheat determine when I plant. Meaning, I don't want to allow the buckwheat to grow for more than 2 months. That means I plant buckwheat 7-8 weeks prior to my intended cool season annual blend. If there has been an early Spring, the rye may be a foot taller...even 15" taller than this Spring. That means I would seed buckwheat, then cultipack to crush the rye down and then spray gly. This year the rye was only a foot high...so I just seeded and sprayed. If it was 18"+ I would seed, spray and cultipack.
Hope that makes sense! I like 7-8 weeks of growth on the buckwheat so that it doesn't get 4-5' tall with a lot of debris and tough to walk thru...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 hey jeff thx for vid, but i was confused too....must be a john thing lol. So does this ever transition to another type of plot like a clover or hickory? and if so is it done by seeding on top of the rye or would it be the buckwheat,spray and cultpk? And if so what dates for southern mi....btw i have bought your first book book....
Growing Deer Tv did this first
Not even close...I had this published in my food plot book in 2014 (chapter 12), and articles back to the 2000s. Check out my no till soybean planting from 2014...sound familiar? Been doing this since the early 2000s...way before Growing Deer 😉 Also well published well before.
www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/no-till-bean-plot-for-whitetails
In fact if you just type in "No Till Soybeans For Deer", that 2014 article comes right up on top...
Whitetail Habitat Solutions. When I look it up that's is not the case.
m.ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=no+till+soybeans+for+deer
Google search ..
Whitetail Habitat Solutions. It is there yes but growing Deer has been studying it for longer and has done it for longer. And they are perfecting it every year
@@johndeerefan3873 since 2002? And using it with clients? Don't think so bud...
Hey Jeff!
I’m planting a 1/2 acre plot along a tree row that’s in between bedding and AG, but I’m unsure what to plant for early season to mid season. I’d like to get something in that may keep a buck or two around before the shift in the very beginning of the season but with such a small plot is this possible without it getting destroyed? What would be the best planting ideas?