The Worst Neck Angle Ive Ever Seen Guild D40 Neck Reset Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 жов 2023
- Lets get started on this Guild, the neck angle is real, REAL, bad!
Website: www.mills-guitars.com
Email: calebmills@mills-guitars.com
Support the Channel: / millsguitars
-- Things I Use --
Insize Taper Gauge - amzn.to/3rJSVHt
iGaging Calipers - amzn.to/3L7WLBU
Table Top Tuner - amzn.to/3Ovt0wY
Nut Slot Files - amzn.to/388F3jc
0.017in 0.45mm Picks For Measuring Nut Height - amzn.to/3yrFL62
Fret Crowning File - amzn.to/39xnslC
Fret Leveling File - amzn.to/37m5BNO
Fret End Dressing File - amzn.to/3Fm36b1
Micro Mesh Polishing Pads - amzn.to/3MnQgLs
CA Glue Activator - amzn.to/3OtUKSz
CA Glue - amzn.to/38corHt
Canopy Glue - amzn.to/3EEo04U
TiteBond Wood Glue - amzn.to/3v4t5jK
Wood Filler - amzn.to/3v653Vz
Glue Bottle - amzn.to/3jZxDBp
Renaissance Wax - amzn.to/3K5mObB
Lacquer - amzn.to/3wbx7pz
Carbon Paper - amzn.to/37Jypjv
Blue Shop Towel - amzn.to/3vvr4Mm
Acoustic Strings - amzn.to/3rJ5AdU
Camera - amzn.to/3K6DC2a
I have found that rocking the neck back and forth and up and down while under pressure really helps to ease the neck loose.
You are turning into a Guild expert!
Great catch Caleb, that neck jumped right into your hand. Have a great week end.
Good start...looking forward to part 2.
I thought I was the only one that still got into these kind of messes lol great work man!
Omg the neck not coming off is giving me anxiety! This popped up on my feed and I’m digging it. I’m chain smoking because it’s freaking me out watching but I’m diggin the show.
Hello, Caleb. Thank you for doing this video. The lack of Guild neck reset videos may be evidence that they really are more difficult to do. Also, just a suggestion for others - use acetone or Ronsonol to clean the bridge bottom and top surface, let it evaporate, then glue. Sometimes the oil in rosewood will cause a glue failure.
Great job Caleb, you have nerves of steel, that was tough to shift. Looking forward to part two. Cheers. Andy. Scotland.
Great work🙂👍
That bridge clamp looks much simpler to use than the rig Jerry used. I like you channel, keep it up.
Where did you get the bridge clamp?
@@charlesberquist985Stewart Mac.
@@vayabroder729: The bridge clamp is Not a Stewmac item. 😁✌🖖
@@zapa1pnt My bad; I got mixed up with the fixture to take the neck out.
You should put some cardboard down on the face under where you are manipulating those palette knives during bridge removal. It's just too easy to scratch the face with the handle of those tools as you work them.
I came to your channel after happening across the Rosa channel. Perhaps I should just keep my mouth shut, but that guy does some of the worst repair work I have ever seen (and I have seen a lot of shitty work). Truly cringe-inducing. I hope you did not acquire too many of his poor practices.
PS: Do you not check for overall bridge/saddle position relating to intonation before you re-glue a bridge? If not, you are missing an opportunity to adjust the bridge position for that reason. As you have noted, the finish extends a bit under the bridge edges. You can plug the pin holes and shift them a little, if needed, while the bridge is off.
That bridge gluing fixture you use has some drawbacks. For one, as far as I can tell, the screws which are meant to hold down the wings of the bridge only push down at one point in the middle of the wings. This is bad. Those wings have a tendency to curl up due to being wet with glue on only their bottom surface. Your clamping system needs to push down on the outer corners of the wings, not just in the centers of them. The same applies to the main body of the bridge. Clamping pressure needs to be applied to the outer edges, not the center.
If you can't easily get under a fret with your pulling tool, it isn't ground sharp/flat enough. After you remove that fret, put a piece of tape around the treble end. You want to know which way to put it back in the fb. Super glue those raised chips back down after you pull that fret.
The needle on your steaming tool needs to be longer. You want the steam to be introduced nearer the bottom of the joint. Wiggle the neck back and forth. Don't just rely on that jig to push the neck straight out. That jig looks dangerous. It can put a lot of pressure on things. When the neck is ready to come out, you don't need all that much pressure. For cripes sakes, don't scrub around on the face with that stupid wrench, trying to dry things out while steaming.
By the way, that type of bridge heater thing you are using doesn't work very well. I can see where you scorched the bridge, getting it off, as well as cooking the crap out of the fb extension. A heat lamp with reflective protection for the face works better. Heat things more slowly. That heater thing you are using is way too hot, yet doesn't transfer the heat as well as a radiant lamp does. You only scorch the surface with your thing.
I was worried that they used epoxy or something. That was a tight one!!! Good job.
Hi young fella. I am from Australia. I notice you re getting way more efficient the lst couple of months. Maybe you feel like you are out there on your own merit more. I follow a couple of luthiers and have a good friend who is one-licensed Martin and all that. I reckon you should try the foam cutters as used by Ted Woodford. They heat both sides at the same time and I think might be a fair bit safer than the steam. He also has a couple of interesting silicone pad bridge heaters. Your new knives look like a great thing, way more effective. What is it with you and Guild, or are there just a lot of them in your area? I quite like them. Cheers from Down Under and keep up the catching practice. 🙂
Does seem like more Guilds with Neck issues from the 1970's through the 1990's than others doesn't it. Could be due to a local dealer selling them at attractive prices or at least being very good at selling a lot of them. Interesting to see the ones coming in needing neck resets most often are those built right after founder, CEO and chief quality control officer Alfred Dronge died and then into the next 2 decades.
Best!
Hey Caleb, get yourself some foam cutter wire to take out the neck from hot wire foam factory. Avoir introducing humidity under the guitar finish. Good work so far!!!
Those are a bit costly and need to be periodically replaced, because they burn out. 😁✌🖖
@zapa1pnt just charge the customer a bit more per neck reset. Better than getting moisture under the finish.
@@zapa1pnt Ehh, no not really. I have used mine for many many neck resets. Still works fine.
Excellent.
Hi, Caleb. You may like to consider mounting your bridge heater control box
under the front edge of your bench, or on the outside edge of frame, facing up, so
you can see the controls and/or hang the heating head under the bench, on a couple of
hooks, so it is out of the way bu still accessible. ( and, of course, won't burn your leg ). 😁✌🖖
I’ve used a fret puller to remove low saddles
Great job, btw, Guild necks can sometimes be hard to loosen because of the wide heel which may be glued as well
I'm not trying to upmanship you, Caleb, but the guitar I learned to play on was much worse than this one. In one sense it made me more determined to use it. Challenge accepted and I did learn to play it.
;)
Well it finally came out. For a minute there I thought you may have been dealing with a mortise and tenon. The thing about dove tails is, if you get it to move up a fraction, you got it. I do believe that if you would have been cranking on that neck a little more, up and down, side to side, it would have come out quicker. That dude in Canada uses foam cutters. He puts one in each hole and gets it hot that way. I'm not convinced that it's better. He has great success, but sometimes things look a little scorched. It does eliminate the water bit that can get under the finish. Nice job, now for the next step. We'll be waiting.
"Cranking" on the neck is not a great idea unless you really know how much you can wiggle and in which direction. You risk cracking the neck block. But I would let others chime in to explain. I just know that neck block cracks are not uncommon.
@@sveablu: I have seen some folk yank the neck
around Waaay too much. Makes me cringe.
TWoodford works with a lot of old and Very old finishes.
I think that is why he switched to the heat sticks. 😁✌🖖
Yeah, I think you are right about that. I don't watch him that much anymore, he puts me to sleep.@@zapa1pnt
Oh yeah, you can't go bananas with it, you can cause some damage.@@sveablu
I love the way you caught the neck. You could call it the pop up toaster method :)
Guild is notorious on the early stuff to use glue on the actual heel, makes it very difficult to remove. Some have actual used spatulas to go down the inside edge of the heel to relieve that, as it can pull finish with it on the body when it pops like that , but good job sir I must say, not criticizing just passing some knowledge, lot of luthiers will skip the guilds of this era for that reason.
It is now well humidified!
Well done m8 🙂
Come Part 2 soon?
Have you tried the straw trick to remove the glue
What happened to part two?
lol.....remember the Estaban caddy guitar???? Now, that was bad!
I think you’re running that heater kinda hot. Stuff looks scorched. Maybe a bit lower and longer?
Hi, does a neck angle start at the tenon joint or at the heel? Since the whole thing, tenon and heel, were set and glued at the factory, should we assume that the problem was caused during construction? Or was it caused by weakening glue?
Compression, movement of wood, a small amount of glue flex maybe. A standard light gauge set of strings has a horizontal force of about 155 lbs which is a lot of pull. It is rare to see it needed in a guitar under 30 years old but at 40+ years it is likely. It only takes a few thousandth of an inch change at the joint to make a lot of difference over the length of the neck. Sometimes poor workmanship can be an issue: certain years of Gibson is a case in point.
Why is that a lot of high end guitars seem to have similar problems, if you buy a preowned Gibson without a headstock repair is it a genuine Gibson.
Yup dry heat for the neck pocket.
Are you saying that because the water causes the timber to swell, which may tighten the joint instead of loosening?
Okay i just watched the entire video. Loved it!
He said at the very end of the video, ‘I’ll let you know where we go from here.’ You know where I would go from there?
I’d take that guitar and place it in its case. Then I’d Google, luthiers near me. And make an appointment.
I had a D40 exactly like that for 42 years, and the action was too high on it, too. Good guitar other than that.
bro you need to be working that neck back and forth with your hand a bit to loosen it up before just applying a bunch of pressure. you're not looking for an explosive neck removal. you're lucky nothing cracked, and that was a ton of moisture left on the finish for far too long, you'll get clouding.
Hello Caleb, I have some guitar parts you may be interested in and I would be happy to send them to you at my expense. How do I get a hold of you to get your address?
Jedi reflex’s. Lol. ✌️
I know where that was seen being used.
just cut the strings with some dikes and pull the pins with them too. ping ping ping
Steam could be useful.