Thanks for posting this, helped a lot, the cap was open circuit, I re flowed all the joints on the power board as well, display now working and rock steady. Now I know how much gas I have left.
Too bad the video is rather out of focus, but informative non the less. I did the same thing years ago. One thing I wasn't able to get properly working is the dimming.. How did you solve this? I read about connecting pin 6 of the cluster to the brown wire behind the dimmer or to one of the clock dimmer connectors in the fuse panel (top right side)
same deal. resolder everything on the little power board and check for cracked solder joints all over all the boards. the speedo is a led light and the others are vfd vacuum florescent displays which both have a separate power input. if you have to tap or hit it to get it to work then you definitely have a cracked joint somewhere
Your video fixed my problem for a few months but the problem came back. Only speedometer and trip work. Maybe the capacitor burned out again. Is there maybe another type I should use?
the hard brown stuff is glue. they glued it down to prevent it from vibrating and knocking loose. u can replace that cap and then resolder everything on the power board. EVERYTHING. and resolder the ribbon cable connections as well. that's what got mine working. and I think the yellow rap is to protect the copper wire that's wrapped around it from shorting out against something. hope this helps
the bulbs are attached to the back of the analog cluster and is really easy to change them. you just need to get it out of the dash like i had to remove mine.
hey bam , i have a s10 blazer from 91 everything on the digital dash works only the odometer doesn't work like it should be, it flickers then nothing for weeks sometimes it work for 2 days etc. what could it be and how to fix this?
just bought a 1991 s10 blazer 4x4 with only the speedometer working nothing and i mean NOTHING else works but that lol i hope this fixes it and a bulb change as well to go with it
Bam, Hey thanx man! I have had no gauges( tach,gas gauge,oil press, ect)besides my speedometer that seemed to work only when it felt like it. I have made several attempts to fix it. I saw your vid, tore the cluster out of my jimmy(sounds like i got cancer on my shlong) replaced the capacitor you talked about and found a wire that lost connection inside the right ribbon cable.Repaired that and now it works great.I tested and the capacitor was burned as well.Your awsome Thanx much!!
yes. that is what i did with this one. it used to have analog gauges with the needles. just google blazer digital dash conversion and they give you all the wire diagrams you need.
Thanks for this video. Any tips on reconnecting the vacuum lines for the A/C vacuum control valve? There is almost no room to connect it back together. Maybe there is a trick I don't know about.
Just saw you already answered this... thanks bam6972 1 year ago in reply to TommyVT28 Follow those vac lines under the dash till you see a connector that you can disconnect. might have to take some of the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access. taking the cluster out will do nothing because there is plastic in-between. but those vac lines will disconnect from the bottom allowing you to give more slack up top. it looks a bit like the back of the controls that the vac lines go into but just a connector. bam6972 1 year ago in reply to TommyVT28 I just pulled mine lol. but there is actually a connecter under the dash where the gas pedal is that you can disconnect and then pull the lines up top further out. take the black bottom kick panel off under the steering wheel. then look for the multi colored hoses. then follow them till you see a disconnect. it should be somewhere bottom left of the controls.
follow those vac lines under the dash till you see a connector that you can disconnect. might have to take some of the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access. taking the cluster out will do nothing because there is plastic in-between. but those vac lines will disconnect from the bottom allowing you to give more slack up top. it looks a bit like the back of the controls that the vac lines go into but just a connector.
Thank you so much for this video. It's almost impossible to get a suitable replacement in germany. But i can get everything to fix it. We try it tomorrow.
I just pulled mine lol. but there is actually a connecter under the dash where the gas pedal is that you can disconnect and then pull the lines up top further out. take the black bottom kick panel off under the steering wheel. then look for the multi colored hoses. then follow them till you see a disconnect. it should be somewhere bottom left of the controls.
lol you would not believe how many boards ive worked on that were also on this sheet and every single one of them are still working. and I have never had a problem with static frying a board.
ok cool. just make sure you resolder everything on that little blue power board and resolder the tiny connections at the ribbon cables on the sides. some have glue over them so soldering then is impossible. and look over all the circuit boards really close for cracked solder joints.
All my sections function, except the speedometer part (including the blinker indicators). I didn't check anything around the ribbons for possible cold solder joints... its 10:15PM and Im going to get this back out the truck and look again...
only took a few hours maby 3. I just took the parts from an old tv board I had laying around. but the real fix is to check for cold solder joints all over. and resolder every joint on the little power board.
Anyway your still able to see this comment?? WOULD REALLY APPRITIATE YOUR HELP MAN! I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO WIRE A ANALOG UP AND NEED TO SEE WHAT EXACTLY YOU DID BASICALLY BACKWORDS SO I CAN SEE WHERE MY WIRES WOULD GO TO SWAP INTO AN ANALOG.
Excellent video, my man! Have the same problem in a '94 Bravada. Only thing, it looks as though I have the same leaking capacitor(leaking brown hard goo from underneath), but there also seems to be some on top of the transformer next to it(yellow wrap). Did you have the same situation or know what the hard brown stuff is? Thanks.
hello good morning I have a digital cluster of a blazer 91 but it does not understand and it does not have 2 resistors that are from the power source can you tell me which are the resistors
Have a 1990 Lincoln town car, digital instruments, all light up an work well except the fuel an temp gauges, they tend to not brighten up to visualy see them, try to turn them up, but they will not, the others will adjust fine. what do you think .??
Do you have to disassemble an analog dash this far to replace burnt out lamps ? I have a 1993 chevy s-10 with an analog dash and I have heard it can kinda be a pain replacing bulbs.
wow impressave sorry cat spell all that well butt any have a 1993 gmc jimmy same dash its fine butt have trouble with the 4wd works sumtimes and not at all at times anyway to pull codes with jumper wires or resetting pcm what would u suggest and also can u rebuild 18v lithium battery its 3 mo out of warr and quit charging thanks for any reply
So yeah, Rhonda's dash started flashing then went all the way out the other night... how long did it take to fix and where did you get the parts needed to repair it?
Bam how did you get the Vacume hose;s to come out that far mine are way back and i cant get my hand back there to get it off to replace the A/C control Unit. i was about to remove the dash to do it ??
I just took my friends cluster apart , his would work at times and then hitting a bump in the road they would go out . I noticed the 4 lugs on the one side of the power supply board didn't look bad at first but when I was checking for continuity between a pin and the end of it's trace it seemed to move slightly . I pressed just lightly on the power supply board and it just went down all the way , then looking at those 2 solder joints you could then see they were bad , I then pressed lightly on the pins that come thru the main board and the other 2 pins of the 4 broke free of their solder , so now all 4 pins on that end of the board are broken free . I am going to go ahead and remove the board to replace the capacitor but I'm guessing if I just would resolder all the connections between the power supply board and the main board the instruments would work again . I think when these connestions were originally soldered they didn't heat those pins long enough to get a good solder joint . I have a capacitor esr meter that I could check the capacitor on the board and get a pretty good idea if it's bad , but I already had a new cap here from a previous project so I'm going to go ahead and just install the new one . I also found a couple bad joints at the pins of the trip meter / mileage thing , and again that's a case the pins are larger and just didn't get hot enough when they were soldered to get a good connection . This video really helped me figure what was going on . The speedometer and odometer worked but nothing else . Unfortunately , my soldering iron took a dump so I'm waiting for my new one to arrive before I can finalize the repair , but I'm fairly sure the bad solder joints were the problem . Thanks alot for posting the video .
bam6972 I got it fixed , kind of . The cap on my board was still good but tested barely good so I replaced it . Now everything works but the gas gauge is showing 3/4 full and hasn't went down as the truck is being driven . I'm thinking that isn't the fault of the instrument but something to do with the sending unit ?? Like maybe the float or whatever in the tank is stuck . I told my buddy to fill the tank full and maybe if it is stuck filling it full may break it loose ? He always runs it with not much gas in it . It seems to be a common problem but I never see a solution . I'm hoping someone may read this and have an idea how to fix it ? that's the main reason he wanted it fixed was to see the gas level but it's stuck at 3/4 full .
yea its more than likely the fuel sensor in the tank. you can buy just the sensor boards on ebay really cheap. but I would advise you to go with a new sending unit with pump lines sensor and all. since there the metal lines they will probably break there so rusted. you can find brand new sending units on ebay for about 75 bucks. I have had good luck buying fuel pumps off ebay for my blazers. buy from a good seller on ebay like global automotive. never had an issue with there fuel pumps.
yup these boards are notorious for bad joints. also have a look at the green board. it has some type of sealing glue all over it but one of the thick joints on the back were cracked causing the problem i had with intermittent gauges and such. also resolder all the small pins on the ribbon cable connections.
Bam i have looked all under the dash and theres no clamp holding the vac lines it seems the go behind the compartment just under the dash does that have to come out to get more hose if so how does it come out ?? any ideas would be great Thanks
Hello, do you have the electrical diagram of the s10 Blazer 94 instrument panel that you can provide me? The current panel is the same as the one in the posted video. I want to change the instrument panel for an old school panel that works for S10 / Blazer / SONOMA 90-97
Hey Bam, I know this post is a little old, but I did everything you did on the blue board, resoldered, replaced capacitor, etc. Now when I put it back in, ONLY my idiot lights and my trip meter work. Have any idea what I did wrong? My idiot lights didn't work before, only my trip and my speedo... Now I somehow made the idiot lights work but took my speedo out... Nothing else works still... HELP? :)
I have a 93 s10 blazer looks exactly like yours. When i first got the blazer the speedometer didn't light up unless you banged on the top of the dash. The other instruments worked fine. So I figured after watching several videos I figured I'd try to do the repair you did. However now the speedometer and trip works fine but the instruments are now out. Im wondering if I just have a short in the power connector in the back of the panel, because now I know that all the instruments actually work just intermittently . Or should I just take it out and try the capacitor as you did?
yes that capacitor makes the instruments work. replace that and check for cracked solder joints. also touch up all the solder connections on the ribbon cables. also on the back of the green board there was a big solder point that was cracked. i think that was the main problem with mine. i didnt show it in the vid.
Have a 91 S10 with cluster not lit and heater fan not working. Saw a video about a 2001 S10 with cluster and fan not working, and happened to be broken solder joints where the harness plugged into the cluster. Wondering if bad solder joints in cluster could cause no fan in a '91 as well?
So it's a 47uf because I'm reading every where else it is a 43uf? Then I'm reading this dude used a 47uf and it blew up. I'm lost because I can't find a 43uf
+arose460 yes its a 47uf 50v capacitor. just make sure you install it correctly. there is a positive and negative lead. there is a line on the side of capacitor and a marking on the board. line up the marking on the board and the line on capacitor when you solder it in.
Good, thanks friend for your video. My problem is that the part where the KM / H marks, hit the cluster, turns on and goes off. Disassemble it and the welds where the glass plate is well. Do you know where the problem lies?. Excuse my English, greetings from venezuela
The problem may be on the card you show at 15:10 min. ??. Since you check on the other card, where the glass and its welds are, they are perfect! Thanks!
when you rewired your dash for the digis what website did you use for the pinout process I think I got bad info . when I turn on the key only the high beam light comes on nothing else will
I was driving down the road on a cold morning smoke started coming out the top of it and it just stopped working. any explanations of what this could be?
no i checked if theres power coming into the dash andits good but my wife called me one day and said that dash was all lit so im guessing its problably craked joints
Hey bam. I just bought a dash out of a 91 jimmy and im doing the swap to. I powered the board up on a bench test and everything seem to come on but the speedo. Have you worked on any with a not working speedo and fixed them. If so, what problem have you found with them. Thanks Jason.
not sure about the speedo. the speedo is all digital. not the vfd. vacuum florescent dislplay like all the other gauges are. so it must be a bad solder joint somewhere on the green or blue board. just look all over the boards for cracked joints and also on the ribbon cables attaching the two boards together.
Hey I am in the process of taking my dash apart and wanted to know what would cause the part of the dash that tells you what gear you are in to not move. Haven't dug too far in yet just wanted some ideas on what it could be
there is a small wire cable with a clip that attaches to the gear shifter on the collum. you have to pull down the lower trim to see it. it may have just became unclipped or the cable could of broke. im betting its just unclipped.
thanks man you should join are page on facebook hardcores10. would you know why everyone is saying it is a 43uf because I don't think they even make one.
+arose460 its a 47uf for sure ive been there done that. its a 47uf 100% so give me some more info and may I can take some peoples dashes in and fix them for them maby for a price of course.
Well after getting into mine some one tried to fix it already and burnt the contact points right off the main where the power bored connects. So I guess I need a new one.
you could very carefully scrape away at the traces on the board and solder a wire to the trace then onto the power board. instead of using the actual hole. it takes a bit of skill but can be done if not totally burnt.
Ive replaced my 50/47mf capacitor but my odometer won’t come back on. Which one controls that? Every once and a while it will show up but then goes out. Can you assist me in fixing this?
its a bad solder joint. look on the green board that looks like it has a small film of glue covering the whole thing. there was a bad joint on mine causing the same issue.
I don’t know exactly what your talking about with film. I replaced that little capacitor twice with a 50v/69uf and it fades every now again. Are you taking about the big green led board? There is a little capacitor thing right beside that 50v one pushed sideways with a little bit of glue on the side
its the large green board. as big as the whole cluster. the board im talking about is 21:14 in the video. i also point to the ribbon cables. resolder all the ribbon cable connections and there was a solder joint on that green board that was cracked on mine causing the problem aswell.
what do you mean about the turn lights? problems with the speedo lights in the dash is usually a bad solder joint on that little power board or a bad joint at the ribbon cables on the sides. resolder everything on the little power board and the ribbon cable connections. and also look for bad joints on the green board aswell.
Thanks for posting this, helped a lot, the cap was open circuit, I re flowed all the joints on the power board as well, display now working and rock steady. Now I know how much gas I have left.
tried this last night...2 1/2 hours to do the complete job.... complete success!! thank you BAM
Too bad the video is rather out of focus, but informative non the less.
I did the same thing years ago.
One thing I wasn't able to get properly working is the dimming.. How did you solve this?
I read about connecting pin 6 of the cluster to the brown wire behind the dimmer or to one of the clock dimmer connectors in the fuse panel (top right side)
Thanks for this post. Followed your instructions and it works perfectly. took me about an hour and a half. cost me $1.05 instead of $150. Thanks again
same deal. resolder everything on the little power board and check for cracked solder joints all over all the boards. the speedo is a led light and the others are vfd vacuum florescent displays which both have a separate power input. if you have to tap or hit it to get it to work then you definitely have a cracked joint somewhere
IM GREAFUL FOR THIS TUTORIAL..SO ASIDE FROM GIVEING A LIKE ALSO A 5 STAR VIDEO. EXCELLENT FROM THE BEGINNING TO THE END. THANK YOU.👍👍👍👍👍
this helped me! i changed the one on the main board to, and re-solderd a lot of points, started right up, havent worked at all for years. thank you.
cool
Your video fixed my problem for a few months but the problem came back. Only speedometer and trip work. Maybe the capacitor burned out again. Is there maybe another type I should use?
the hard brown stuff is glue. they glued it down to prevent it from vibrating and knocking loose. u can replace that cap and then resolder everything on the power board. EVERYTHING. and resolder the ribbon cable connections as well. that's what got mine working. and I think the yellow rap is to protect the copper wire that's wrapped around it from shorting out against something. hope this helps
the bulbs are attached to the back of the analog cluster and is really easy to change them. you just need to get it out of the dash like i had to remove mine.
hey bam , i have a s10 blazer from 91 everything on the digital dash works only the odometer doesn't work like it should be, it flickers then nothing for weeks sometimes it work for 2 days etc. what could it be and how to fix this?
its called a solder sucker or a solder pump. and can be purchased at radio shack or on ebay. and some computer or electronic stores.
just bought a 1991 s10 blazer 4x4 with only the speedometer working nothing and i mean NOTHING else works but that lol i hope this fixes it and a bulb change as well to go with it
Bam,
Hey thanx man! I have had no gauges( tach,gas gauge,oil press, ect)besides my speedometer that seemed to work only when it felt like it.
I have made several attempts to fix it. I saw your vid, tore the cluster out of my jimmy(sounds like i got cancer on my shlong) replaced the capacitor you talked about and found a wire that lost connection inside the right ribbon cable.Repaired that and now it works great.I tested and the capacitor was burned as well.Your awsome Thanx much!!
yes. that is what i did with this one. it used to have analog gauges with the needles. just google blazer digital dash conversion and they give you all the wire diagrams you need.
Will this work if only part the gauges aren't working? My break light, check engine light & a couple more are working but the rest of it doesn't work
Same
Thanks for this video. Any tips on reconnecting the vacuum lines for the A/C vacuum control valve? There is almost no room to connect it back together. Maybe there is a trick I don't know about.
Just saw you already answered this... thanks
bam6972 1 year ago in reply to TommyVT28
Follow those vac lines under the dash till you see a connector that you can disconnect. might have to take some of the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access. taking the cluster out will do nothing because there is plastic in-between. but those vac lines will disconnect from the bottom allowing you to give more slack up top. it looks a bit like the back of the controls that the vac lines go into but just a connector.
bam6972 1 year ago in reply to TommyVT28
I just pulled mine lol. but there is actually a connecter under the dash where the gas pedal is that you can disconnect and then pull the lines up top further out. take the black bottom kick panel off under the steering wheel. then look for the multi colored hoses. then follow them till you see a disconnect. it should be somewhere bottom left of the controls.
Thanks!
follow those vac lines under the dash till you see a connector that you can disconnect. might have to take some of the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access. taking the cluster out will do nothing because there is plastic in-between. but those vac lines will disconnect from the bottom allowing you to give more slack up top. it looks a bit like the back of the controls that the vac lines go into but just a connector.
Thank you so much for this video. It's almost impossible to get a suitable replacement in germany. But i can get everything to fix it.
We try it tomorrow.
I just pulled mine lol. but there is actually a connecter under the dash where the gas pedal is that you can disconnect and then pull the lines up top further out. take the black bottom kick panel off under the steering wheel. then look for the multi colored hoses. then follow them till you see a disconnect. it should be somewhere bottom left of the controls.
lol you would not believe how many boards ive worked on that were also on this sheet and every single one of them are still working. and I have never had a problem with static frying a board.
ok cool. just make sure you resolder everything on that little blue power board and resolder the tiny connections at the ribbon cables on the sides. some have glue over them so soldering then is impossible. and look over all the circuit boards really close for cracked solder joints.
All my sections function, except the speedometer part (including the blinker indicators). I didn't check anything around the ribbons for possible cold solder joints... its 10:15PM and Im going to get this back out the truck and look again...
only took a few hours maby 3. I just took the parts from an old tv board I had laying around. but the real fix is to check for cold solder joints all over. and resolder every joint on the little power board.
Anyway your still able to see this comment?? WOULD REALLY APPRITIATE YOUR HELP MAN! I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO WIRE A ANALOG UP AND NEED TO SEE WHAT EXACTLY YOU DID BASICALLY BACKWORDS SO I CAN SEE WHERE MY WIRES WOULD GO TO SWAP INTO AN ANALOG.
Simply get a connector for the analog dash from the junkyard and use a wiring diagram to swap over the wires.
Thanks for the help I fixed mine
Excellent video, my man! Have the same problem in a '94 Bravada. Only thing, it looks as though I have the same leaking capacitor(leaking brown hard goo from underneath), but there also seems to be some on top of the transformer next to it(yellow wrap). Did you have the same situation or know what the hard brown stuff is? Thanks.
hello good morning I have a digital cluster of a blazer 91 but it does not understand and it does not have 2 resistors that are from the power source can you tell me which are the resistors
Gracias, me funciono
there is a big capacitor on the blue board do you know the (uf. and the Voltage? thanks.
Have a 1990 Lincoln town car, digital instruments, all light up an work well except the fuel an temp gauges, they tend to not brighten up to visualy see them, try to turn them up, but they will not, the others will adjust fine. what do you think .??
Do you have to disassemble an analog dash this far to replace burnt out lamps ? I have a 1993 chevy s-10 with an analog dash and I have heard it can kinda be a pain replacing bulbs.
How to fix the needle of the board that marks the change as neutral retraction as I arrange hasme a video x favor to see how it is arranged
Can you send me the wiring for that digital dash board because I bought one
Now I know how fast I'm going
Is that little black plug (for the 6 prongs) on the bottom of the blue board with 2 screws that holds it, is it soldered to the blue board? Thanks
wow impressave sorry cat spell all that well butt any have a 1993 gmc jimmy same dash its fine butt have trouble with the 4wd works sumtimes and not at all at times anyway to pull codes with jumper wires or resetting pcm what would u suggest and also can u rebuild 18v lithium battery its 3 mo out of warr and quit charging thanks for any reply
So yeah, Rhonda's dash started flashing then went all the way out the other night... how long did it take to fix and where did you get the parts needed to repair it?
Bam how did you get the Vacume hose;s to come out that far mine are way back and i cant get my hand back there to get it off to replace the A/C control Unit. i was about to remove the dash to do it ??
cool glad this helped ya.
I just took my friends cluster apart , his would work at times and then hitting a bump in the road they would go out . I noticed the 4 lugs on the one side of the power supply board didn't look bad at first but when I was checking for continuity between a pin and the end of it's trace it seemed to move slightly . I pressed just lightly on the power supply board and it just went down all the way , then looking at those 2 solder joints you could then see they were bad , I then pressed lightly on the pins that come thru the main board and the other 2 pins of the 4 broke free of their solder , so now all 4 pins on that end of the board are broken free . I am going to go ahead and remove the board to replace the capacitor but I'm guessing if I just would resolder all the connections between the power supply board and the main board the instruments would work again . I think when these connestions were originally soldered they didn't heat those pins long enough to get a good solder joint . I have a capacitor esr meter that I could check the capacitor on the board and get a pretty good idea if it's bad , but I already had a new cap here from a previous project so I'm going to go ahead and just install the new one . I also found a couple bad joints at the pins of the trip meter / mileage thing , and again that's a case the pins are larger and just didn't get hot enough when they were soldered to get a good connection . This video really helped me figure what was going on . The speedometer and odometer worked but nothing else . Unfortunately , my soldering iron took a dump so I'm waiting for my new one to arrive before I can finalize the repair , but I'm fairly sure the bad solder joints were the problem . Thanks alot for posting the video .
cool glad it helped
bam6972
I got it fixed , kind of . The cap on my board was still good but tested barely good so I replaced it . Now everything works but the gas gauge is showing 3/4 full and hasn't went down as the truck is being driven . I'm thinking that isn't the fault of the instrument but something to do with the sending unit ?? Like maybe the float or whatever in the tank is stuck . I told my buddy to fill the tank full and maybe if it is stuck filling it full may break it loose ? He always runs it with not much gas in it . It seems to be a common problem but I never see a solution . I'm hoping someone may read this and have an idea how to fix it ? that's the main reason he wanted it fixed was to see the gas level but it's stuck at 3/4 full .
yea its more than likely the fuel sensor in the tank. you can buy just the sensor boards on ebay really cheap. but I would advise you to go with a new sending unit with pump lines sensor and all. since there the metal lines they will probably break there so rusted. you can find brand new sending units on ebay for about 75 bucks. I have had good luck buying fuel pumps off ebay for my blazers. buy from a good seller on ebay like global automotive. never had an issue with there fuel pumps.
mine does the staying at one place crap doesnt change till i shut the truck off the next time i start it it will read right again
yup these boards are notorious for bad joints. also have a look at the green board. it has some type of sealing glue all over it but one of the thick joints on the back were cracked causing the problem i had with intermittent gauges and such. also resolder all the small pins on the ribbon cable connections.
Bam i have looked all under the dash and theres no clamp holding the vac lines it seems the go behind the compartment just under the dash does that have to come out to get more hose if so how does it come out ?? any ideas would be great
Thanks
You should replace your light bulbs with led's while you are in there.
Hi, in my dash burn the transistors Q1 and Q2 attached to the power supply. Do you know what can ve the problem?
Hello, do you have the electrical diagram of the s10 Blazer 94 instrument panel that you can provide me? The current panel is the same as the one in the posted video. I want to change the instrument panel for an old school panel that works for S10 / Blazer / SONOMA 90-97
Bam are u near indy I have the same problem as u with the dig dash
Hey Bam, I know this post is a little old, but I did everything you did on the blue board, resoldered, replaced capacitor, etc. Now when I put it back in, ONLY my idiot lights and my trip meter work. Have any idea what I did wrong? My idiot lights didn't work before, only my trip and my speedo... Now I somehow made the idiot lights work but took my speedo out... Nothing else works still... HELP? :)
Whats that solder dispenser clicky thing you got there? Where do I get one of those?
Hi, what is voltaje chart pinout power suply, (yellow board)? thanks
I have a 93 s10 blazer looks exactly like yours. When i first got the blazer the speedometer didn't light up unless you banged on the top of the dash. The other instruments worked fine. So I figured after watching several videos I figured I'd try to do the repair you did. However now the speedometer and trip works fine but the instruments are now out. Im wondering if I just have a short in the power connector in the back of the panel, because now I know that all the instruments actually work just intermittently . Or should I just take it out and try the capacitor as you did?
yes that capacitor makes the instruments work. replace that and check for cracked solder joints. also touch up all the solder connections on the ribbon cables. also on the back of the green board there was a big solder point that was cracked. i think that was the main problem with mine. i didnt show it in the vid.
@@bam6972
Thanks for answering!
Have a 91 S10 with cluster not lit and heater fan not working. Saw a video about a 2001 S10 with cluster and fan not working, and happened to be broken solder joints where the harness plugged into the cluster. Wondering if bad solder joints in cluster could cause no fan in a '91 as well?
the cluster has no control over the fan.
Is it possible to change a dash from the gauges to a digital one like yours
So it's a 47uf because I'm reading every where else it is a 43uf? Then I'm reading this dude used a 47uf and it blew up. I'm lost because I can't find a 43uf
+arose460 yes its a 47uf 50v capacitor. just make sure you install it correctly. there is a positive and negative lead. there is a line on the side of capacitor and a marking on the board. line up the marking on the board and the line on capacitor when you solder it in.
Got the blunt cutting thumb nail
awesome! glad it helped ya.
I have an 89 s10 gauge cluster needs same repair I dont know anyone local to me to fix it any ideas?
Good, thanks friend for your video. My problem is that the part where the KM / H marks, hit the cluster, turns on and goes off. Disassemble it and the welds where the glass plate is well. Do you know where the problem lies?. Excuse my English, greetings from venezuela
bad solder joint on one of the boards in there. resolder all the ribbon cable connections and look for bad solder joints.
The problem may be on the card you show at 15:10 min. ??. Since you check on the other card, where the glass and its welds are, they are perfect! Thanks!
when you rewired your dash for the digis what website did you use for the pinout process I think I got bad info . when I turn on the key only the high beam light comes on nothing else will
I put the link in the description to the pin outs. it gives you detailed instructions on how to swap it.
you can say me, what is the value of the resistor, r10,r5,r9,r8,r6,r7? of yellow circuit that you repair the capacitor. need this value.
47uf 50v
What's that little tool ur using that clicks?
I was driving down the road on a cold morning smoke started coming out the top of it and it just stopped working. any explanations of what this could be?
never seen that happen before. time to take it apart and have a look. im curious too???
Hi my dash only lightsup the check engine bulb,and e-brake and nothing else
Sergio Morales mine is doing the same thing did you find the problem?
No
Sergio Morales did you find the problen and did it cause your brakelights to not work?
no i checked if theres power coming into the dash andits good
but my wife called me one day and said that dash was all lit so im guessing its problably craked joints
what would cause only the speed and turn signals to not be displayed?
same thing and cracked solder joints
I've tried to fix mine multiple times it keeps flickering then goes out and will come back on I replaced the power supply and it still does it
Noah Keeton sane shit keeps happening to me. Any chance u figured it out
changed it and my dash is still blacked out other than the ebrake and check engine light ...also my brake lights arnt working? any ideas?
check all the solder joints on the board. also resolder all the ribbon cable connectors
Hey bam. I just bought a dash out of a 91 jimmy and im doing the swap to. I powered the board up on a bench test and everything seem to come on but the speedo. Have you worked on any with a not working speedo and fixed them. If so, what problem have you found with them. Thanks Jason.
not sure about the speedo. the speedo is all digital. not the vfd. vacuum florescent dislplay like all the other gauges are. so it must be a bad solder joint somewhere on the green or blue board. just look all over the boards for cracked joints and also on the ribbon cables attaching the two boards together.
+clemsr01 this is what you need for the speedo repair
+David Burrington I got mine to work. Turns out it was just broken soldering joints.
I have the same problem where where yours, need an idea where to start working!?!
Hey I am in the process of taking my dash apart and wanted to know what would cause the part of the dash that tells you what gear you are in to not move. Haven't dug too far in yet just wanted some ideas on what it could be
there is a small wire cable with a clip that attaches to the gear shifter on the collum. you have to pull down the lower trim to see it. it may have just became unclipped or the cable could of broke. im betting its just unclipped.
look at 2:50 in the video
it was unclipped, didnt even see that when I took mine off cause it wasn't attached xD thanks!
yo man if I send u mine could u do the same thing cause everything comes on but the speedometer
find somebody that can solder and have them check it out for ya.
thanks man you should join are page on facebook hardcores10. would you know why everyone is saying it is a 43uf because I don't think they even make one.
+arose460 its a 47uf for sure ive been there done that. its a 47uf 100% so give me some more info and may I can take some peoples dashes in and fix them for them maby for a price of course.
Well after getting into mine some one tried to fix it already and burnt the contact points right off the main where the power bored connects. So I guess I need a new one.
you could very carefully scrape away at the traces on the board and solder a wire to the trace then onto the power board. instead of using the actual hole. it takes a bit of skill but can be done if not totally burnt.
Ive replaced my 50/47mf capacitor but my odometer won’t come back on. Which one controls that? Every once and a while it will show up but then goes out. Can you assist me in fixing this?
its a bad solder joint. look on the green board that looks like it has a small film of glue covering the whole thing. there was a bad joint on mine causing the same issue.
bam6972 ok I’ll check it out again soon! Thanks
I don’t know exactly what your talking about with film. I replaced that little capacitor twice with a 50v/69uf and it fades every now again. Are you taking about the big green led board? There is a little capacitor thing right beside that 50v one pushed sideways with a little bit of glue on the side
its the large green board. as big as the whole cluster. the board im talking about is 21:14 in the video. i also point to the ribbon cables. resolder all the ribbon cable connections and there was a solder joint on that green board that was cracked on mine causing the problem aswell.
the capacitor is 42Mf 50V? because when i install it explode
47uf 50v. but that 42 should be fine. maybe you installed it backwards. yikes
bam6972
i did it and work thanks but now i have a trouble, a short circuit the turn lights and speedometer intermittent some times what can i do?
what do you mean about the turn lights? problems with the speedo lights in the dash is usually a bad solder joint on that little power board or a bad joint at the ribbon cables on the sides. resolder everything on the little power board and the ribbon cable connections. and also look for bad joints on the green board aswell.
ok let me check thaks
Any ideas
Noah Keeton did you find a solution?
the black tube thing? solder sucker. melt the solder and this tool sucks it up and away.
Bam are u near indy I have the same problem as u with the dig dash
Indianapolis yea bout 60 miles north.