I just wanted to drop a thanks, I finally did this mod after my Super73 battery took a crap ( confirmed that it had dead cells). When I contacted Super73 they wanted to charge me $600!!! After just staring at my bike for a couple of months of just staring at my useless bike I bite the bullet and started this upgrade. I had a few hiccups but It's now running awesome!!
I need your help to finish my install. Nowhere in the video does it show how to connect the display to the controller. No plugs match to what is left available. I’m all Ready to go so PLEASE reach out. 🙏🏻👊🏻
This is super helpful!!! Very detailed and at the right pace. Very easy as long as you have some basic electrical skill. Thanks for taking the effort to making such a high quality video.
RunPlayBack damn. I just spent more money to buy the battery and controller! I don’t need/want more speed, but the range would be awesome. Can’t wait to start the project when the parts come in.
I tried the speed hack by cutting the white wire like some youtube video suggested and it fried my controller. Use my multimeter to check the controller and found out by cutting the white cable, five mosfets inside the controller are blown. So I decided to fix the bike myself and tried this upgrade shown by Rick. It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts in while my Z1 sit in the living room sadly, staring at me. When all the parts finally arrived, I went to work and lo and behold, the Z1 is repaired with new LED monitor, new throttle that's very responsive, and new controller. The one thing I did not do is swap the battery because the battery I purchased from China is too long to fit inside the seat. Now my bike runs normal again. I achieved 20 mph with the stock battery. I am going to add a second battery, the one that did not fit, into a new housing and use power switcher to switch one battery to another. That way, I have two batteries on my Z1 when I need to take an extended trip. This new controller is able to automatically detect the Volt on the battery and adjust itself. Thanks Rick for sharing this very valuable video with the community. I replayed this video probably 10 times while going step by step process of fixing my Z1.
@@mr.crispy8932 Did you fried the controller? if you did, you need to either replace the controller or overhaul the set up but keep the original battery like I did.
@@designsbydm1519 I'll have a follow up vid soon but I'm seeing 30-35mph top speed and depending on weight/terrain/how much you throttle maybe 30-40 miles range.
awesome vid Rik! Lot of work to do this. Can’t wait to see the performance video, this would be a great project for my Z, thanks for the indepth step by step video
Thanks bro! Yup lots of work but easy enough to knock out in a weekend with the right tools. Hit me up if you decide to do it, I think you'd love it to be honest. It's like a totally different feeling now.
Hey brother! Yup I remember! I pretty much left the ESK8 scene after that whole Carvon fiasco and got more into ebikes. I really haven't done a DIY project like this since those days so it was fun to break out the soldering kit again. Hope you are well!
RunPlayBack oh no. Your doing great job. I follow you on Super73 also as Jr Par. And enjoy how your family is involved. I’m getting my other half involved too. So. May give her the Z1 and I get the S2. But after you did this awesome mod. Maybe I get another Z1. Again keep up the good work. Be safe. Give this man two thumbs up and more.
is there a new link for the battery? I can't find the one in the video using the link in the description, also can a 36volt motor/hub handle the 48-volt battery?
RIC...on the controller I installed, the wires are the same as your tutorial. The install went great,.. but now. I bought a bigger one ( sine savaton 1000 to 2000 watt 45 amp- universal voltage. 36 volt to 72 volt). It's missing the white wire on it's hall sensor grouping. Someone on Facebook told me that missing white wire isn't needed because it's for temperature semsing.
Found it, or at least 1 very similar: HALLOMOTOR 35A 36V 48V 1000W 1200W Brushless Ebike Controller DC Sine Wave Silver 35A Regenerative Reverse Function + KT LCD8H Color Matrix Display Meter Control Panel www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5R261X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fGy7FbQ0AGFSQ
You’re awesome man! Thank you for this vid! One question- For the programming, how did you get the numbers for that? What would I have to enter for the C sections for pedal assist?
So I'm not 100% sure what the pedal assist settings are since I didn't install it but this video is the best explanation / walk through for that controller/display: ua-cam.com/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/v-deo.html
Trevor Orr not that I noticed. I believe it's the same motor on the S1 500w nominal, 1000w peak. So it's really just unlocking a little more power from the motor with these upgrades.
Just add a hinge at the back. You can get a hinge at your local hardware store. You can see it more clearly at 25:53 marker if you change the playback speed to 0.5
I bought Z1 with upgrade to my son, but looks like controller died few days later. Is there any substitutes in Amazon or eBay I can quickly purchase? It will be super helpful
Hi man was wondering if you could provide a diagram of what goes where? As in which wire you used for the throttle. Plugged mine up and the LCD is good to go but it's not getting throttle. Thanks a lot for your help!
Awesome video bro. Best one I've seen in awhile. Extremely well detailed and you described every step perfectly. I have a Z1, so bow how much labor do you charge do this for me? 😅 - Phil
Hey Phil! Thanks so much for watching! Haha I don't really charge to do mods...I prefer just sharing the knowledge lol. I'm sure there's someone local who could help you out though!
Hold on... The type of original controller in the Z1 is that : "CR M1000SP SP" ???? If so, then I've got the same controller in the EU version, which means throttle is possible !? No ?
Hello. just a question, this is not a problem if your battery is 1000 watts, when your controller handle less like 500 watts ? Not dangerous ? Can I use a 350w battery on a controller for 1000w for example ? And same about amper ? The battery delivery 20Ah, when controller rated current is 12Ah.
From what I understand the controller can handle less watts but not more than what it's rated for. For example, I wouldn't try a 52v battery on a controller that's rated to handle a 36/48v. The motor has a little more flexibility. For example the Z1 motor is rated 500watts nominal and 1000watts peak which is why this 48v conversion doesn't blow it. I don't think the controller has the same kind of leeway.
@@RunPlayBack you by chance wouldn’t know who still stocks the 6 pin black option would you?fyi thanks for your content without it we would struggle lol!
Very detailed informative video. Super glad to see you help the super73 community out. For the programming of the controller does it come with information on each setting on what number to set it on? Also noticed you bought connectors also? What was it used for?
Yup there's actually a great tutorial on programming the controller here: ua-cam.com/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/v-deo.html The connector was for connecting the battery (T-Plug) to the controller (XT-60).
@@RunPlayBack awesome. I'm guessing because the og battery uses a dean's plug correct? Anyway badass vid brother. Can't wait to see the PAS install if you do decide to install it 👍
@@VPR1EIGHT7 yup although the t-plug was actually on the new battery so I think it was just a coincidence. Yup PAS install is pretty simple I'll look into it. I just don't really like PAS when it's always on but I think there's a way to program it so you turn it on and off in the display.
So in your measurements of the original battery you only measured the length and the height What’s the width? Or am I missing something? And also what exact connectors should the battery come with. It’s harder now because brick lithium has halted its production And I don’t wanna pay light speed bikes almost $700 for a battery that fits in the seat.
I think this might be the same one - make sure it's 13s4p though www.ebay.com/itm/48V-20AH-Li-ion-Battery-Volt-Rechargeable-Bicycle-1000W-E-Bike-Electric-Li-ion/392959329066
@@enjoyus100 looks like it's not available on ebay anymore. I would hit up this company based in Chicago and ask them for a custom Z1 battery, they are legit chibatterysystems.com/
Rick another question, does the original 36v controler have a pedal assist connection, or a LCD connection? I want to put pedal assist on my z1 when it arrives in October....thx bro.
Hey Dino! The original 36v stock controller does not have a pedal assist or LCD connection as far as I know. You're best bet would be to upgrade the controller like the one I link in the video. You could also just replace the controller and not the battery to keep things simple.
Ok RIC. I finally got my z1 with a dual voltage (36v & 48v) controller and a second 48 volt battery on the frame. I have pedal assist..l.c.d everything. Thank you for your help, but now I have a new problem. I bought a second massive controler...savaton universal voltage..can go 36 to 72 volt batteries..but, there is only 5 hall sensor wires instead to 6. .blue/ green/ black/ yellow/ red. How do I match these 5 to the motors 6 wires... Any clue bro?
Hello. Nice Video. Just a question, I have made same stuff like you with another controller but not working ... I wanted to know if you need to connect too the brakes in order to works or or not ?
So how is the bike 4 months after the install? Does the battery still hold charge? Does it still have the same torque? Would I need a cooling fan for the my bike as it gets around 35°c over the summer?
Hey Dean! Its great I have no complaints. The battery still holds a charge and has the same amount of torque. I take really good care of it and keep the battery indoors so no issues. I thought of a cooling fan but never really needed it. Some people install their controllers on the outside of the enclosure to keep it cool.
*Dude?! wish I wasn’t 6’3* because I’m way to big for SUPER73’s bike frame’s 😔 but this was complicated but you must be an engineer by trade because that was awesome! I could use a little off-road setup like this to take to my secret 🤫 fishing honey hole’s. I wonder if they sell a fishing rod holder for this Lol 😝 Honestly, everything seems really custom and DIY so with a bit of creativity I bet I could rig something up. *I love the look of the Super73-RX frame with the dual shock’s... it’s probably my favorite frame even to this day* Wish frame wasn’t so low to the ground because at 6’3 199/lbs… I don’t see me being able to pedal this without looking like the Jolly Green Giant who keep’s kneeing himself in the face while trying to pedal on this sweet a$$ frame piece🤣. Seriously tho, I really think the Super73-RX frame’s are still the sexiest looking setup’s. I would love to hook up dual 1000w-motors with like dual 60V-20ah batteries, the open frame space would probably accommodate it somehow and with a boss-a$$ controller I’d be so smooth,pedal free and riding dead sexy!!! Awe man the possibilities with this frame!!!! I hope the *new Super73 CX-1 brings the frame up for taller rider’s?!*
I tried looking for info on the motor but couldn't find any. I based my P settings roughly on a Bafang 500w hub and settings from other users with the same setup.
Man, one year later you’ve posted this video i just got my Z1 and one of my first impressions is that the battery should be bigger. Did you choose the 48V for a specific video? How big is that in relation to the stock one? I really have zero understanding of batteries.
I chose 48v because it would fit inside of the stock seat and I wanted a little more torque with the aftermarket controller. The easiest way to upgrade to a bigger battery and simply get more range is to get the ChiBatterySystems battery for the Z1.
Hello. Nice video : ) I have made same think like you but when I accelerate I just the sound of the motor inside the wheel .. but nothing move. I have forget something ?
Seems like the owner got deployed, not sure what happened to their FB page though, sorry. Try hitting them up on Instagram -- instagram.com/bricklithium/
We're do I find the link of the description of the parts. Also I seen on ebay they sell the controller and the throttle together would that work or I have to buy the one u have
Yo boss that T-plug to xt60 , the battery end is male and the xt60 from the controller is a male? Just for clarification. I need female adaptor from end to end to connect the two? Confusing enough lol? Thanks bro mabuhay from S.cali
Solid Tutorial bro! I don't have a super73 I do have a Hurley Mini Swell that comes stock with a 48v battery and 500watt hub that goes a max speed of 20mph. My question is if I was to remove my stock control panel and add this LCD Screen to my bike would I be able to go past the 20mph?
Thanks! So I'm not 100% sure that would work as the stock controller might have it limited to 20mph through the hardware. I think your best bet is to replace both the controller and LED display and figure out a way to rig the controller to the bike and your stock 48v battery to the new controller.
Hey, I just got a used z1 and the battery after full charge only last an hour at most. Trying to change the battery so I can actually use the thing. I was thinking of getting the same battery but now I want to upgrade it entirely if I’m gonna spend the money. Found a 48v-12ah battery that’s 9.84 in long, 3.4in wide and 2.75inch tall. Will this fit into the seat? Also, do I need to change the controller to change the battery?
Awesome video and thank you. Do you have to swap out the stock thumb throttle for the one you have linked? Also since the link expired. What other 48v battery will work. I’m Trying to purchase the whole set at once to get mine rolln ASAP. Mahalo 🤙🏽
Yes it's recommended to swap out the stock throttle because it may not be able to handle 48 volts. Here's the best option for a high quality 48v battery - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
I'm pretty sure you can't. I don't remember any port for a display. The only display for the stock controller was connected to the throttle. It's worth getting the new controller along with the LCD display. If your just looking for a speedometer just mount a phone on the handlebars.
Yeah that would work, I was just concerned with water going inside of the enclosure and getting trapped near the battery terminals. I haven't had any issues with overheating but that just might be my riding style. If you're slamming the throttle for long stretches it will overheat the controller. Mounting the controller outside seems to work for others. But until I run into any issues, I prefer the minimal aesthetic of keeping everything hidden inside of the seat. That's just my two cents but everyone's build is a little different which is great. Once you get started you discover your own way of modding things.
@@RunPlayBack I’ve never thought about the water issues. Just did the speed hack and I’m not contented with the speed. Now looking into doing the 48v conversion. Just saving up for it. Thanks for the quick reply. Great job on your videos 👏
Hello, I am curious. How much did this mod cost? I have a broken charging port that short circuited and super73 wants $600 for an entire seat. I wonder if just upgrading the battery would be cheaper+ better in the end.
Price is variable but around the time I did this I spent maybe $230 but I had a lot of extra parts that I already owned from previous builds so it was a bit cheaper for me. If you are handy and don't mind some DIY work you'll get more performance and definitely more knowledge on how the bike works so you can diagnose and fix issues easily.
As a first try you did OK. But... This is what I'd do, change the battery Voltage to a 52v (for me even higher maybe 60v) so you spend more time at 48v when discharging, remember Voltage is your speed and AMPs is your Torque. The amount of your AMP's is what generates any heat in your controller or motor. So higher voltage means same heat if you are using less AMP's to achieve the same Watt's (speed on the road). Voltage times AMP's = Watts or V times A = W (which) = Heat and Speed. Another thing to improve is the controller, there are only 3 types. Square wave, Sin wave and FOC (Field Orientated Controller) , its hard to describe but I have listed them worse to best. A square wave controller is like trying to ride a skate board up and down a stair case, a sin wave controller is like skate boarding a U shaped ramp and FOC is like surfing an undulating endless wave on a calm ocean. I can tell which you are using by the loudness of the noise being made by your electric motor as the more efficient will make less sound therefore square wave is noisy and FOC is silent. I won't bother with the first 2 as listed as you have probably encountered them already. The best FOC is sold by Grin Tech electric bikes in Canada, it is very small but depending on which model you purchase is about one third the size of your controller in the video. FOC features are much better and offer a wider range of voltages and AMP's, Self programming Hall wires so you don't have to "colour match", Regenerative braking (I have not bought brake pads for my bike for the last 3 years), and the motor I have is completely silent. I could go on and on about FOC but just watch their video's on their controller.
That's a great point and I definitely thought about that a lot. But what really made me choose the Z1 was the frame. I'm a short dude (5'5") and there really hasn't been a bike frame that I ever really loved until I tried the Z1. The stock parts are really fine for my needs but what made this particularly project interesting for me was that there was a large community of Z1 modders that I could share this build with. It's really in my DNA to mod and customize things that I own and so even if I chose an S2 or a Zugo I'd be modding the hell out of that and someone would ask, "why didn't you just buy an Onyx or a Suron?". So that's a really long answer but essentially I knew I would be dumping some cash into modding so I figured the cheapest Super73 model would be a good starting point.
You may have to solder the wires together. Colors are sometimes different but essentially there's only 3 wires to connect - red-positive, black-negative, other color-signal.
But connect them to what part of the controller? I am stuck with wiring the lcd screen to the controller. It doesn’t show how to in your video. Pls help 😂🙏🏻
You can tap into the battery harness wires for the most accurate voltage reading or can also tap into the cable feeding into the display. First, you'll need to open the cable and find the positive battery/power wire and the ground/return wire. Second, is cut the positive/battery wire. Third, IIRC, the keyed voltage switch has 3 wires, #1 is the black wire -- which you'll need to tap into to the cable's ground/return wire (you can use a wire tap), #2 is the red wire -- which you'll connect to the cut positive/battery wire going towards the display (if you chose the display cable) or the controller (if you chose the battery harness), #3 is the green wire -- which you'll connect to the positive/battery wire going towards the controller (if you chose the display cable) or towards the battery (if you chose the battery harness). This is all obviously at your own risk, GL :)
I put on the same controller and I do not recommend it because it heats up terribly, you can cook a dinner on it, do not buy it 500 watts too weak for this motor, I will add that it was only checked in the workshop without load. Video nice thx
You can check with local ebike or electric scooter (PEV) shops. Otherwise, you can check with FB groups in your area for PEVs, should be able to find someone that can point you in the right direction.
This was a while back, I used a generic cheap battery. You can source these generic batteries pretty much anywhere, eBay, Amz, AliExpress, etc. However, if you want a high quality custom battery, check out powerfullithium.com
Watched every single video, thanks for the clarity. Question: if I wanted to replace the battery like you did but not the controller and keep the on/off switch, How would you do that if the aftermarket battery only comes with two wires?
I did this conversion and the bike keeps shorting out, asking around someone said it's most likely the settings (bike shuts off at 700W almost on the dot) anywhere I can find the what each settings are? I bought the same controller/screen but no instructions. Thanks!
I would suggest checking your battery/BMS, what is it rated for? Continuous and peak current (amperage)? Once you have that confirmed, then you can program the controller so that it does not exceed your battery's limitations.
Without changing the controller on my RX I just wanna change the battery to 52V 18AH. Problem is the Brick Lithium battery I got has 2 Anderson plugs, but looks like it goes into the controller via HiGo L615AG P connector. This connector has 2 large pins and then 4 other pins. What's the easiest solution to change the battery out? All the HI guys say to check out your UA-cam channel. I havcent seen anyone do this yet in detail. I did spend hours on the interwebs yesterday schooling myself on all the endless kinds of connectors though. Could use some guidance. Mahalo Much!
Oh wow I'm not really sure how those would connect. Have you hit up Frank at Brick Lithium, I think he'd probably be the best to ask regarding the connections to the RX as he's definitely built batteries for it.
@@RunPlayBack yea stopped by his place yesterday and he hooked me up with the connectors / splitter / wires I needed to get my battery working. Sooo helpful! Only thing is I'll have to operate it as just a dual battery until I get the controller changed out. I kinda wanted to avoid the dual battery thing for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll try that battery blender from SParks and see if I get extra torque at least when the stock is cutout from the motor on start (59V from 52V battery vs the 48V stock). The wire from the stock battery to stock controller has extra 4 pins that likely monitor the battery sensors. Since I have the stock 48V & now a 52V I gotta drain the 59V battery down to the 54 or so for the stock in order to run it safely. 1 project at a time : ) thanks for the quick reply brotha.
Got it all put together, seems like the controller isn’t outputting to the motor. When I press throttle the wheel makes a faint twitch like it’s about to start but then power dies off. On the screen it shows wattage go up a little then drop back down to 0. There’s 5V at the throttle, but right now pedal assist, walk mode and throttle don’t work. Any thoughts? I have removed connector on throttle and soldered together
Hmm ok try two things. Make sure the you have the power above 0. If there's still an issue check your throttle wires and be sure they match. Some throttle wires don't match the controller (red with red / black with black / third color with third color.) Pedal assist and walk mode will not work unless you have a pedal assist sensor installed.
Hey Brandon! Thats a good question that I unfortunately lack the electrical skills to answer :) I'm pretty sure that wiring in series or parallel requires identical voltage. Either way, running this Z1 bike at 84 volts would be way too much for this tiny frame.
Yup! I don't know exactly how the RX is wired but once you remove the controller, you can pretty much wire it up the same way depending on what aftermarket controller you go with. I would reach out to www.e-streetbikes.store/ as they have more info on the latest kits for the RX.
Did this mod. Having a few issues. 1: throttle won’t read. I checked the wires like you showed in video and made sure the colors were lined up. (No throttle shows up on lcd screen) 2: lcd powers on when u connect the battery. U can use the control switch to go thru settings and turn it off. But it won’t power on from power button alone.
As long as it's a 36v battery with more amp hours it won't blow the stock controller. More than 36v it'll probably blow the controller. The stock motor is fine at 48v.
This really depends on what you want to achieve, but to answer your question simply, you need all the parts mentioned, but you can source them from anywhere.
hi!! very nice video, i'm using it as inspiration for the mods i'm working on my Z1, thanks for making this detailed video. i have a question, the wires for the headlight of the controller, do you know what is the V output on those? if i have a 12v light do i need to also add a converter? again, thanks for the help. best
Hey Hector! So I've actually had some issues with the headlight wires. They actually output 48v and I did add a converter to step it down to 12v but for whatever reason it was really buggy and would cut off intermittently. I decided to not use those wires and opted for a physical switch instead.
Can this mod work for newer model since when I tried to speed hack it literally stopped worked and I cut the correct one and it won’t even start but the motor spins a bit and they actually replace it fully and I bought this bike December 22, 2022.
I was debating about doing the 48V upgrade, but decided I don't really need the extra speed and don't want to mess with a new controller and an LCD screen. Can I just swap out the 36V battery with a larger 36V 20Ah to get better range, or will it possibly fry some stuff? Also, looks like the brand of battery you're using is OKoman, still recommend them after almost a year?
haven't even got my bike yet and I want to do this upgrade. I'm about 210 lbs. Do you think I should get a higher voltage battery, and if so, will the controller you have work with it. Thank you!
Maybe I missed it, but what is the T-plug to XT60 Adapter for? Love the content and informative guide. Looking to do this on my daily commuting bike and would like to make sure I got everything I'll need.
@@RunPlayBack Awesome! Thank you for the fast response. Just bought everything I'll need. Any chance you could link the anti spark switch from luna cycles?
@@RunPlayBack Just finished my 48v swap and couldn't be happier! Used a solder free method and I've been running solid for a week or so now. Also opted out of using velcro and instead used weather stripping and a latch & hinge for weather proofing the housing. Thanks again for the awesome guide, loving this z1 enough to maybe cancel my RX preorder!
@@thatguyandrew7631 That's amazing to hear! Really glad you're enjoying it. I feel like the Z1 upgrade definitely has more torque than the RX off the line.
First off, thanks for the video and instructions. Good stuff. Second, I can also confirm that Brick Lithium is gone. I ordered a battery back in March from Brick back when they were still responding. I eventually did get a battery, but not one that would fit the Z1, they sent a mountable ebike battery in a big plastic enclosure meant for external mounting. I asked what we could do about the mixup because they had initially confirmed that this was a custom battery to fit under the Z1 seat. Never got a response. Of course, I could possibly disassemble the battery they sent and work to make it fit but that wasn't the point. Brick never responded. Now I'm also on the hunt for a good battery replacement as well. I'll post if I find one.
Hi, wanted to know if I upgrade the stock controller with display to the 48v can I use my stock battery or do I also have to upgrade the battery? Only asking because the battery is not available anymore. Thx and nice video
@@jonathanhang9482 yup check out Lite Speed Bikes - a little more expensive but they are super reputable and custom made in the US - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Finally we have some custom Z1 content, mainly your DIY’s. Much needed in this community. Thanks for doing this!
Thanks brother! I'm always happy to help! We're building up a massive Z1 community right now!
Couldn’t agree more. Thanks for doing this. Do you have a video for the seat upgrade?
Trevor Orr yup I'm working on that now!
I just wanted to drop a thanks, I finally did this mod after my Super73 battery took a crap ( confirmed that it had dead cells). When I contacted Super73 they wanted to charge me $600!!! After just staring at my bike for a couple of months of just staring at my useless bike I bite the bullet and started this upgrade. I had a few hiccups but It's now running awesome!!
Glad to hear! Enjoy the ride! 👍
I need your help to finish my install. Nowhere in the video does it show how to connect the display to the controller. No plugs match to what is left available. I’m all
Ready to go so PLEASE reach out. 🙏🏻👊🏻
This has got to be the absolute best z1 out there!
Thank you!
Great mod, It's been working great for over a year no issues. Motor seems to handle it well. Yours is much cleaner!!! Great video
Very cool! Same controller? Have you noticed any overheating issues?
@@RunPlayBack it’s overheating? Which lcd did u choose lcd 8?
@@noobygrinchz yeah LCD 8 color version
@@RunPlayBack can you use the stock thumb throttle with this set up? Having some trouble adapting to this controller.
@@brandonfithian719 did you figure it out ?
Super73 should take notes and make this Z2 version. Thx for posting.
I agree!
This is super helpful!!! Very detailed and at the right pace. Very easy as long as you have some basic electrical skill. Thanks for taking the effort to making such a high quality video.
No problem, I'm happy to help! Yup it is a pretty straightforward project with some basic DIY skills. Like a good weekend project :)
RunPlayBack damn. I just spent more money to buy the battery and controller! I don’t need/want more speed, but the range would be awesome. Can’t wait to start the project when the parts come in.
@@steveflannery1270 Nice! Definitely feels like a whole new bike. Let me know if you have any questions when you start your build. I'm happy to help!
just did my swap on the zg (EU version) and it works perfect tutorial helped very much
Awesome, always happy to help!
I tried the speed hack by cutting the white wire like some youtube video suggested and it fried my controller. Use my multimeter to check the controller and found out by cutting the white cable, five mosfets inside the controller are blown. So I decided to fix the bike myself and tried this upgrade shown by Rick. It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts in while my Z1 sit in the living room sadly, staring at me. When all the parts finally arrived, I went to work and lo and behold, the Z1 is repaired with new LED monitor, new throttle that's very responsive, and new controller. The one thing I did not do is swap the battery because the battery I purchased from China is too long to fit inside the seat. Now my bike runs normal again. I achieved 20 mph with the stock battery. I am going to add a second battery, the one that did not fit, into a new housing and use power switcher to switch one battery to another. That way, I have two batteries on my Z1 when I need to take an extended trip. This new controller is able to automatically detect the Volt on the battery and adjust itself. Thanks Rick for sharing this very valuable video with the community. I replayed this video probably 10 times while going step by step process of fixing my Z1.
That's awesome..glad this video is still helpful! The Z1 is a classic that has the best variety of mods out there! Enjoy your ride!
Dude I did the same thing and idk what to do. Is there any easier ways to do it and just keep the same power? Like maybe a plug and play
@@mr.crispy8932 Did you fried the controller? if you did, you need to either replace the controller or overhaul the set up but keep the original battery like I did.
@@ALBGR8Hey I bought a new controller for the bike and we soldered the wires to the new controller and the connectors and it won’t turn on
@@ALBGR8the last two wires are different colors from the original so it’s confusing
I have a z1 i have hardly touched since 2022 and want to know if this upgrade is still the best option in 2024
Awesome video the community is forever in debt to you! 🤙🏼
Thanks, I'm always happy to help and share especially when it comes to DIY!
Just did the his 48v upgrade and my z1 is scary fast and torque great
Nice! Enjoy the ride!!
Which throttle did you end up using? The linked one in the description is unavailable on amazon now.
@@michaelarcangel5862 This seems to be the same one: amzn.to/3lO0ARA
@@RunPlayBack Quick reply! Thanks, just need to find the battery.
@@michaelarcangel5862 hit up Brick Lithium on Facebook or Instagram
Want a discount on your Super73? Use my promo code here: www.talkable.com/x/IYbf7c
Top speed and range? Trying to get my sons z1 to keep up with my R series 🤣
@@designsbydm1519 I'll have a follow up vid soon but I'm seeing 30-35mph top speed and depending on weight/terrain/how much you throttle maybe 30-40 miles range.
awesome vid Rik! Lot of work to do this. Can’t wait to see the performance video, this would be a great project for my Z, thanks for the indepth step by step video
Thanks bro! Yup lots of work but easy enough to knock out in a weekend with the right tools. Hit me up if you decide to do it, I think you'd love it to be honest. It's like a totally different feeling now.
@@RunPlayBack For sure! thanks, I'm already looking at your parts list haha. I know I want to do this, just need your videos for inspiration
Awesome to see some DIY content! I subbed to you in your esk8 days. Love the look and feel of the channel!
Hey brother! Yup I remember! I pretty much left the ESK8 scene after that whole Carvon fiasco and got more into ebikes. I really haven't done a DIY project like this since those days so it was fun to break out the soldering kit again. Hope you are well!
Going to do my conversion tonight without having to research what needs to be done. I am forever grateful for this tutorial, thanks again brother!
Such a well done video !!! Keep it up brotha can’t wait to see more mods
Thanks for watching!
Rik. Awesome job. Thank you. Keep up the good work. And say mahalo to your other helper. Awesome bro
Will do! Thank you brother 🙌
RunPlayBack oh no. Your doing great job. I follow you on Super73 also as Jr Par. And enjoy how your family is involved. I’m getting my other half involved too. So. May give her the Z1 and I get the S2. But after you did this awesome mod. Maybe I get another Z1. Again keep up the good work. Be safe. Give this man two thumbs up and more.
Is there a different thumb throttle people are using? the one on here is out of stock/unavailable :(
is there a new link for the battery? I can't find the one in the video using the link in the description, also can a 36volt motor/hub handle the 48-volt battery?
bro that was awesome. thank you
any time!
RIC...on the controller I installed, the wires are the same as your tutorial. The install went great,.. but now. I bought a bigger one ( sine savaton 1000 to 2000 watt 45 amp- universal voltage. 36 volt to 72 volt). It's missing the white wire on it's hall sensor grouping. Someone on Facebook told me that missing white wire isn't needed because it's for temperature semsing.
yeah that should be fine then, you can leave the white wire alone
Big ups to karacold!!!!
Awesome videos!
The link for speed controller/lcd is no longer available. Do you have another? I’d rather purchase the right gear the first time 😜
Found it, or at least 1 very similar:
HALLOMOTOR 35A 36V 48V 1000W 1200W Brushless Ebike Controller DC Sine Wave Silver 35A Regenerative Reverse Function + KT LCD8H Color Matrix Display Meter Control Panel www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5R261X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_fGy7FbQ0AGFSQ
You’re awesome man! Thank you for this vid! One question- For the programming, how did you get the numbers for that? What would I have to enter for the C sections for pedal assist?
So I'm not 100% sure what the pedal assist settings are since I didn't install it but this video is the best explanation / walk through for that controller/display: ua-cam.com/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/v-deo.html
Good Job! I'm thinking about taking the plunge. I wanted to leave it at 36v though. Waiting on your test vid
Yup I'm gathering up that footage this week. :)
Does the 48v hurt the hub motor at all?
Trevor Orr not that I noticed. I believe it's the same motor on the S1 500w nominal, 1000w peak. So it's really just unlocking a little more power from the motor with these upgrades.
Hi can you put a fresh link to a newer battery option? That eBay link is dead
Try LiteSpeedBikes: litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/48v21ah-super-73-in-seat-battery/
Thanks!
Wat would I need to hinge me seat up like yours I'm just not ready for upholstery I'm more wondering how the hinge attached to the battery box
Just add a hinge at the back. You can get a hinge at your local hardware store. You can see it more clearly at 25:53 marker if you change the playback speed to 0.5
I bought Z1 with upgrade to my son, but looks like controller died few days later. Is there any substitutes in Amazon or eBay I can quickly purchase? It will be super helpful
You could just solder the motor phase wires instead of using the bullet connectors right?
Yup you can!
Battery link is dead. New link?
Hi man was wondering if you could provide a diagram of what goes where? As in which wire you used for the throttle. Plugged mine up and the LCD is good to go but it's not getting throttle. Thanks a lot for your help!
Awesome video bro. Best one I've seen in awhile. Extremely well detailed and you described every step perfectly. I have a Z1, so bow how much labor do you charge do this for me? 😅
- Phil
Hey Phil! Thanks so much for watching! Haha I don't really charge to do mods...I prefer just sharing the knowledge lol. I'm sure there's someone local who could help you out though!
Awesome vid. Would love to see the pedal assist install.
Yeah definitely I can do that, it's a pretty simple installation.
Hey ,love the video did everything and my screen is saying motor position fault please help! @runplayback
"That' coming right up!" ;D
Is it necessary to upgrade the stock motor on the bike or is it fine with the new battery?
It's fine for 48v and 52v but top speed will cap out around 33-35mph.
Hold on... The type of original controller in the Z1 is that : "CR M1000SP SP" ???? If so, then I've got the same controller in the EU version, which means throttle is possible !? No ?
Hello. just a question, this is not a problem if your battery is 1000 watts, when your controller handle less like 500 watts ? Not dangerous ? Can I use a 350w battery on a controller for 1000w for example ?
And same about amper ? The battery delivery 20Ah, when controller rated current is 12Ah.
From what I understand the controller can handle less watts but not more than what it's rated for. For example, I wouldn't try a 52v battery on a controller that's rated to handle a 36/48v. The motor has a little more flexibility. For example the Z1 motor is rated 500watts nominal and 1000watts peak which is why this 48v conversion doesn't blow it. I don't think the controller has the same kind of leeway.
I had a question in regards to the throttle wires. I have 2 colors that do not match. Any ideas?
Is the throttle necessary, or can I just use stock...because I can’t find one with black option, thanks! The link has no more
I would get a new throttle - it's been reported that the stock Z1 throttle might not be able to handle 48 volts.
@@RunPlayBack you by chance wouldn’t know who still stocks the 6 pin black option would you?fyi thanks for your content without it we would struggle lol!
@@RunPlayBack I found them on alli express I appreciate all the info and actually responding much respect aloha
Very detailed informative video. Super glad to see you help the super73 community out. For the programming of the controller does it come with information on each setting on what number to set it on? Also noticed you bought connectors also? What was it used for?
Yup there's actually a great tutorial on programming the controller here: ua-cam.com/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/v-deo.html The connector was for connecting the battery (T-Plug) to the controller (XT-60).
@@RunPlayBack awesome. I'm guessing because the og battery uses a dean's plug correct? Anyway badass vid brother. Can't wait to see the PAS install if you do decide to install it 👍
@@VPR1EIGHT7 yup although the t-plug was actually on the new battery so I think it was just a coincidence. Yup PAS install is pretty simple I'll look into it. I just don't really like PAS when it's always on but I think there's a way to program it so you turn it on and off in the display.
So in your measurements of the original battery you only measured the length and the height What’s the width? Or am I missing something? And also what exact connectors should the battery come with. It’s harder now because brick lithium has halted its production And I don’t wanna pay light speed bikes almost $700 for a battery that fits in the seat.
Battery link is not working, any chance you could share the name or another link?
I think this might be the same one - make sure it's 13s4p though www.ebay.com/itm/48V-20AH-Li-ion-Battery-Volt-Rechargeable-Bicycle-1000W-E-Bike-Electric-Li-ion/392959329066
@@RunPlayBack how do you know it's a 13s4p? There is nothing in the Ebay item description? Is this the right battery?
This seems to be bigger in dimensions than the battery you bought! Can you provide a link with the correct battery?
@@enjoyus100 looks like it's not available on ebay anymore. I would hit up this company based in Chicago and ask them for a custom Z1 battery, they are legit chibatterysystems.com/
Rick another question, does the original 36v controler have a pedal assist connection, or a LCD connection? I want to put pedal assist on my z1 when it arrives in October....thx bro.
Hey Dino! The original 36v stock controller does not have a pedal assist or LCD connection as far as I know. You're best bet would be to upgrade the controller like the one I link in the video. You could also just replace the controller and not the battery to keep things simple.
Ok RIC. I finally got my z1 with a dual voltage (36v & 48v) controller and a second 48 volt battery on the frame. I have pedal assist..l.c.d everything. Thank you for your help, but now I have a new problem. I bought a second massive controler...savaton universal voltage..can go 36 to 72 volt batteries..but, there is only 5 hall sensor wires instead to 6. .blue/ green/ black/ yellow/ red. How do I match these 5 to the motors 6 wires... Any clue bro?
Hey Dino! The wire colors should match up and whatever isn't being used don't worry about them. Do most of the colors match up?
Hello. Nice Video. Just a question, I have made same stuff like you with another controller but not working ... I wanted to know if you need to connect too the brakes in order to works or or not ?
No I didn't connect the controller to the brakes. It doesn't really require a brake/motor cutoff.
So how is the bike 4 months after the install? Does the battery still hold charge? Does it still have the same torque? Would I need a cooling fan for the my bike as it gets around 35°c over the summer?
Hey Dean! Its great I have no complaints. The battery still holds a charge and has the same amount of torque. I take really good care of it and keep the battery indoors so no issues. I thought of a cooling fan but never really needed it. Some people install their controllers on the outside of the enclosure to keep it cool.
*Dude?! wish I wasn’t 6’3* because I’m way to big for SUPER73’s bike frame’s 😔 but this was complicated but you must be an engineer by trade because that was awesome! I could use a little off-road setup like this to take to my secret 🤫 fishing honey hole’s. I wonder if they sell a fishing rod holder for this Lol 😝 Honestly, everything seems really custom and DIY so with a bit of creativity I bet I could rig something up. *I love the look of the Super73-RX frame with the dual shock’s... it’s probably my favorite frame even to this day* Wish frame wasn’t so low to the ground because at 6’3 199/lbs… I don’t see me being able to pedal this without looking like the Jolly Green Giant who keep’s kneeing himself in the face while trying to pedal on this sweet a$$ frame piece🤣. Seriously tho, I really think the Super73-RX frame’s are still the sexiest looking setup’s. I would love to hook up dual 1000w-motors with like dual 60V-20ah batteries, the open frame space would probably accommodate it somehow and with a boss-a$$ controller I’d be so smooth,pedal free and riding dead sexy!!! Awe man the possibilities with this frame!!!! I hope the *new Super73 CX-1 brings the frame up for taller rider’s?!*
I hear ya! Yeah the Z1 is probably too small. An RX is definitely more suitable for taller riders. 👍👍
Is the motor extension cord a 9pin? My z1 caught on fire and im doing a rebuild...the hubmotor cord is short
I believe it's 11 pin but I don't know the exact specs of the connector. You could also just forego the connectors and splice the wires directly.
How did you figure out the motor p settings? Did you figure out the gear reduction and magnet count?
I tried looking for info on the motor but couldn't find any. I based my P settings roughly on a Bafang 500w hub and settings from other users with the same setup.
What about going to a 52w battery? Would I need a new controller too? Di you think that would be a good upgrade or am I just going too far?
A few have done it, definitely possible. It's also more expensive than this upgrade. Only you can decide what's right for you.
Man, one year later you’ve posted this video i just got my Z1 and one of my first impressions is that the battery should be bigger. Did you choose the 48V for a specific video? How big is that in relation to the stock one? I really have zero understanding of batteries.
I chose 48v because it would fit inside of the stock seat and I wanted a little more torque with the aftermarket controller. The easiest way to upgrade to a bigger battery and simply get more range is to get the ChiBatterySystems battery for the Z1.
What’s the battery? And where can I find it?
Hello. Nice video : ) I have made same think like you but when I accelerate I just the sound of the motor inside the wheel .. but nothing move. I have forget something ?
This won’t burn or melt the 500 watt motor ?
Nope it won't.
hello, but the battery upgrade in the desc in the video is not working anymore?
Seems like the owner got deployed, not sure what happened to their FB page though, sorry. Try hitting them up on Instagram -- instagram.com/bricklithium/
Hi there great video, would all these components work on the ZG by any chance?
Yes it would!
We're do I find the link of the description of the parts. Also I seen on ebay they sell the controller and the throttle together would that work or I have to buy the one u have
Yo boss that T-plug to xt60 , the battery end is male and the xt60 from the controller is a male? Just for clarification. I need female adaptor from end to end to connect the two? Confusing enough lol? Thanks bro mabuhay from S.cali
Solid Tutorial bro! I don't have a super73 I do have a Hurley Mini Swell that comes stock with a 48v battery and 500watt hub that goes a max speed of 20mph. My question is if I was to remove my stock control panel and add this LCD Screen to my bike would I be able to go past the 20mph?
Thanks! So I'm not 100% sure that would work as the stock controller might have it limited to 20mph through the hardware. I think your best bet is to replace both the controller and LED display and figure out a way to rig the controller to the bike and your stock 48v battery to the new controller.
@@RunPlayBack thanks bro. I’ll probably check it out one day
Hey, I just got a used z1 and the battery after full charge only last an hour at most. Trying to change the battery so I can actually use the thing. I was thinking of getting the same battery but now I want to upgrade it entirely if I’m gonna spend the money. Found a 48v-12ah battery that’s 9.84 in long, 3.4in wide and 2.75inch tall. Will this fit into the seat? Also, do I need to change the controller to change the battery?
Awesome video and thank you. Do you have to swap out the stock thumb throttle for the one you have linked? Also since the link expired. What other 48v battery will work. I’m Trying to purchase the whole set at once to get mine rolln ASAP. Mahalo 🤙🏽
Yes it's recommended to swap out the stock throttle because it may not be able to handle 48 volts. Here's the best option for a high quality 48v battery - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/
Are we able to hook a up the same LCD speedometer up to the stock controller on the z1
I'm pretty sure you can't. I don't remember any port for a display. The only display for the stock controller was connected to the throttle. It's worth getting the new controller along with the LCD display. If your just looking for a speedometer just mount a phone on the handlebars.
I’ve done this 48v upgrade mod on my Z1 but it shows error code “Motor Position Sensor Fault” I need some help. Any input would be great.
Sounds like a hall sensor issue, double check all your connections to the motor
Does it work if I just get the controller not the battery
How about leaving the opening open for ventilation instead of using gorilla tape? I’ve watched other videos too regarding overheating. What you think?
Yeah that would work, I was just concerned with water going inside of the enclosure and getting trapped near the battery terminals. I haven't had any issues with overheating but that just might be my riding style. If you're slamming the throttle for long stretches it will overheat the controller. Mounting the controller outside seems to work for others. But until I run into any issues, I prefer the minimal aesthetic of keeping everything hidden inside of the seat. That's just my two cents but everyone's build is a little different which is great. Once you get started you discover your own way of modding things.
@@RunPlayBack I’ve never thought about the water issues. Just did the speed hack and I’m not contented with the speed. Now looking into doing the 48v conversion. Just saving up for it. Thanks for the quick reply. Great job on your videos 👏
@@reviewanything530 No problem, let me know if you have any questions when you get started, I'm always happy to help. Good luck! 👍
What about the Super 73 RX to increase speed and torque?
Would a simple Grinn Phaserunner on the existing motor and battery work for this?
can you only put in the controller or will that not work
You can but it would be somewhat pointless. The battery and controller as a pair increase the performance.
hi,
great video. do you know if this works on the eu version (ZG) aswell?
Hello, I am curious. How much did this mod cost? I have a broken charging port that short circuited and super73 wants $600 for an entire seat. I wonder if just upgrading the battery would be cheaper+ better in the end.
Price is variable but around the time I did this I spent maybe $230 but I had a lot of extra parts that I already owned from previous builds so it was a bit cheaper for me. If you are handy and don't mind some DIY work you'll get more performance and definitely more knowledge on how the bike works so you can diagnose and fix issues easily.
I wonder if this mod would work on my Ariel X-Class? Its currently pushing top at 28mph. It has a rear hub bafang 750w.
Yeah it probably could...I'm not sure where the controller lives in the X-Class but if you can find it and it's easy enough to replace..why not?
As a first try you did OK. But... This is what I'd do, change the battery Voltage to a 52v (for me even higher maybe 60v) so you spend more time at 48v when discharging, remember Voltage is your speed and AMPs is your Torque. The amount of your AMP's is what generates any heat in your controller or motor. So higher voltage means same heat if you are using less AMP's to achieve the same Watt's (speed on the road). Voltage times AMP's = Watts or V times A = W (which) = Heat and Speed.
Another thing to improve is the controller, there are only 3 types. Square wave, Sin wave and FOC (Field Orientated Controller) , its hard to describe but I have listed them worse to best.
A square wave controller is like trying to ride a skate board up and down a stair case, a sin wave controller is like skate boarding a U shaped ramp and FOC is like surfing an undulating endless wave on a calm ocean. I can tell which you are using by the loudness of the noise being made by your electric motor as the more efficient will make less sound therefore square wave is noisy and FOC is silent. I won't bother with the first 2 as listed as you have probably encountered them already. The best FOC is sold by Grin Tech electric bikes in Canada, it is very small but depending on which model you purchase is about one third the size of your controller in the video. FOC features are much better and offer a wider range of voltages and AMP's, Self programming Hall wires so you don't have to "colour match", Regenerative braking (I have not bought brake pads for my bike for the last 3 years), and the motor I have is completely silent. I could go on and on about FOC but just watch their video's on their controller.
This video is almost 2 years old. This is the latest iteration of this build: ua-cam.com/video/uIqQfAxP_V4/v-deo.html
Would the controller you installed still work with the bikes stock battery?
With all the stuff that you bought, wouldnt it just be better off buying a S2 or zugo bike?
That's a great point and I definitely thought about that a lot. But what really made me choose the Z1 was the frame. I'm a short dude (5'5") and there really hasn't been a bike frame that I ever really loved until I tried the Z1. The stock parts are really fine for my needs but what made this particularly project interesting for me was that there was a large community of Z1 modders that I could share this build with. It's really in my DNA to mod and customize things that I own and so even if I chose an S2 or a Zugo I'd be modding the hell out of that and someone would ask, "why didn't you just buy an Onyx or a Suron?". So that's a really long answer but essentially I knew I would be dumping some cash into modding so I figured the cheapest Super73 model would be a good starting point.
How do you wire the throttle? My cord seems short. And the connectors don’t match.
You may have to solder the wires together. Colors are sometimes different but essentially there's only 3 wires to connect - red-positive, black-negative, other color-signal.
But connect them to what part of the controller? I am stuck with wiring the lcd screen to the controller. It doesn’t show how to in your video. Pls help 😂🙏🏻
So do I use a Anderson to xt60 to use the controller and my stock battery?
Yup
Can you help me out I’m trying to wire a key voltage switch on my rx can you tell me how to wire it up
You can tap into the battery harness wires for the most accurate voltage reading or can also tap into the cable feeding into the display. First, you'll need to open the cable and find the positive battery/power wire and the ground/return wire. Second, is cut the positive/battery wire. Third, IIRC, the keyed voltage switch has 3 wires, #1 is the black wire -- which you'll need to tap into to the cable's ground/return wire (you can use a wire tap), #2 is the red wire -- which you'll connect to the cut positive/battery wire going towards the display (if you chose the display cable) or the controller (if you chose the battery harness), #3 is the green wire -- which you'll connect to the positive/battery wire going towards the controller (if you chose the display cable) or towards the battery (if you chose the battery harness). This is all obviously at your own risk, GL :)
I put on the same controller and I do not recommend it because it heats up terribly, you can cook a dinner on it, do not buy it 500 watts too weak for this motor, I will add that it was only checked in the workshop without load. Video nice thx
Are there ppl or places that can do these upgrades/mods? For us that aren’t so mechanically/electrically inclined???
You can check with local ebike or electric scooter (PEV) shops. Otherwise, you can check with FB groups in your area for PEVs, should be able to find someone that can point you in the right direction.
I went to your link for the 48v battery and it doesn’t look like they have this battery on there website. What would you recommend I do?
This was a while back, I used a generic cheap battery. You can source these generic batteries pretty much anywhere, eBay, Amz, AliExpress, etc. However, if you want a high quality custom battery, check out powerfullithium.com
My screen won't turn on and I followed everything on the video. Can someone help me please
You figure this out?
Same boat
Watched every single video, thanks for the clarity. Question: if I wanted to replace the battery like you did but not the controller and keep the on/off switch, How would you do that if the aftermarket battery only comes with two wires?
The stock controller cannot handle 48v
You'll need to upgrade the controller as well. Unless your upgrading the battery to a different 36v.
I did this conversion and the bike keeps shorting out, asking around someone said it's most likely the settings (bike shuts off at 700W almost on the dot) anywhere I can find the what each settings are? I bought the same controller/screen but no instructions. Thanks!
I would suggest checking your battery/BMS, what is it rated for? Continuous and peak current (amperage)? Once you have that confirmed, then you can program the controller so that it does not exceed your battery's limitations.
Without changing the controller on my RX I just wanna change the battery to 52V 18AH. Problem is the Brick Lithium battery I got has 2 Anderson plugs, but looks like it goes into the controller via HiGo L615AG P connector. This connector has 2 large pins and then 4 other pins. What's the easiest solution to change the battery out? All the HI guys say to check out your UA-cam channel. I havcent seen anyone do this yet in detail. I did spend hours on the interwebs yesterday schooling myself on all the endless kinds of connectors though. Could use some guidance. Mahalo Much!
Oh wow I'm not really sure how those would connect. Have you hit up Frank at Brick Lithium, I think he'd probably be the best to ask regarding the connections to the RX as he's definitely built batteries for it.
@@RunPlayBack yea stopped by his place yesterday and he hooked me up with the connectors / splitter / wires I needed to get my battery working. Sooo helpful! Only thing is I'll have to operate it as just a dual battery until I get the controller changed out. I kinda wanted to avoid the dual battery thing for multiple reasons. Maybe I'll try that battery blender from SParks and see if I get extra torque at least when the stock is cutout from the motor on start (59V from 52V battery vs the 48V stock). The wire from the stock battery to stock controller has extra 4 pins that likely monitor the battery sensors. Since I have the stock 48V & now a 52V I gotta drain the 59V battery down to the 54 or so for the stock in order to run it safely. 1 project at a time : ) thanks for the quick reply brotha.
Hello what is the with of the battery
Got it all put together, seems like the controller isn’t outputting to the motor. When I press throttle the wheel makes a faint twitch like it’s about to start but then power dies off. On the screen it shows wattage go up a little then drop back down to 0. There’s 5V at the throttle, but right now pedal assist, walk mode and throttle don’t work. Any thoughts? I have removed connector on throttle and soldered together
Hmm ok try two things. Make sure the you have the power above 0. If there's still an issue check your throttle wires and be sure they match. Some throttle wires don't match the controller (red with red / black with black / third color with third color.) Pedal assist and walk mode will not work unless you have a pedal assist sensor installed.
Hey did you ever figure it out? I'm having the same issue
Once I put the power above 0 it worked fine. I also went ahead and added the pedal assist sensor.
Could you wire the new and old batteries in series with a beefier controller and run it at 84 volts?
Hey Brandon! Thats a good question that I unfortunately lack the electrical skills to answer :) I'm pretty sure that wiring in series or parallel requires identical voltage. Either way, running this Z1 bike at 84 volts would be way too much for this tiny frame.
@@RunPlayBack thanks for taking time to reply!
No problem! If you're looking to hit those high voltages I'd suggest checking out the Suron or Onyx RCR.
Is this process the same with the rx because I want to upgrade the controller on it
Yup! I don't know exactly how the RX is wired but once you remove the controller, you can pretty much wire it up the same way depending on what aftermarket controller you go with. I would reach out to www.e-streetbikes.store/ as they have more info on the latest kits for the RX.
Did this mod. Having a few issues.
1: throttle won’t read. I checked the wires like you showed in video and made sure the colors were lined up. (No throttle shows up on lcd screen)
2: lcd powers on when u connect the battery. U can use the control switch to go thru settings and turn it off. But it won’t power on from power button alone.
How come he doesn't help/reply to these problems?
Could u use the bigger battery on the stock internals?
As long as it's a 36v battery with more amp hours it won't blow the stock controller. More than 36v it'll probably blow the controller. The stock motor is fine at 48v.
What are all the items that we have to have and don’t have to have
This really depends on what you want to achieve, but to answer your question simply, you need all the parts mentioned, but you can source them from anywhere.
hi!! very nice video, i'm using it as inspiration for the mods i'm working on my Z1, thanks for making this detailed video.
i have a question, the wires for the headlight of the controller, do you know what is the V output on those? if i have a 12v light do i need to also add a converter?
again, thanks for the help.
best
Hey Hector! So I've actually had some issues with the headlight wires. They actually output 48v and I did add a converter to step it down to 12v but for whatever reason it was really buggy and would cut off intermittently. I decided to not use those wires and opted for a physical switch instead.
@@RunPlayBack great, good to know, thank you
Can this mod work for newer model since when I tried to speed hack it literally stopped worked and I cut the correct one and it won’t even start but the motor spins a bit and they actually replace it fully and I bought this bike December 22, 2022.
If you're referring to the ZX model, it comes with a 48v system. If you want to mod to 52v, 60v, or 72v, the same base concepts apply.
I was debating about doing the 48V upgrade, but decided I don't really need the extra speed and don't want to mess with a new controller and an LCD screen. Can I just swap out the 36V battery with a larger 36V 20Ah to get better range, or will it possibly fry some stuff? Also, looks like the brand of battery you're using is OKoman, still recommend them after almost a year?
haven't even got my bike yet and I want to do this upgrade. I'm about 210 lbs. Do you think I should get a higher voltage battery, and if so, will the controller you have work with it. Thank you!
The controller is only rated for 48v so anything more would probably cause a short. But you might be surprised, 48v has some solid torque.
@@RunPlayBack Thanks man. Do you have another link for the battery you used? Or something similar. The current link isnt working.
Maybe I missed it, but what is the T-plug to XT60 Adapter for? Love the content and informative guide. Looking to do this on my daily commuting bike and would like to make sure I got everything I'll need.
So the T-Plug adapter goes on the battery so it can connect to the controller which is XT60.
@@RunPlayBack Awesome! Thank you for the fast response. Just bought everything I'll need. Any chance you could link the anti spark switch from luna cycles?
@@thatguyandrew7631 yup this one with XT60 connector lunacycle.com/remote-on-off-solid-state-switch/
@@RunPlayBack Just finished my 48v swap and couldn't be happier! Used a solder free method and I've been running solid for a week or so now. Also opted out of using velcro and instead used weather stripping and a latch & hinge for weather proofing the housing. Thanks again for the awesome guide, loving this z1 enough to maybe cancel my RX preorder!
@@thatguyandrew7631 That's amazing to hear! Really glad you're enjoying it. I feel like the Z1 upgrade definitely has more torque than the RX off the line.
hey, all the battery links are dead! looking for a 48v that will fit in the seat, anybody able to recommend ?
Did you reach out to Brick Lithium? They do custom packs for the Z1. Link in description.
@@RunPlayBack yeah i did last week but didn't hear back
So apparently Brick Lithium is essentially closed as of April 28 according to his FB page, mentions starting up again in 2024.
First off, thanks for the video and instructions. Good stuff.
Second, I can also confirm that Brick Lithium is gone. I ordered a battery back in March from Brick back when they were still responding. I eventually did get a battery, but not one that would fit the Z1, they sent a mountable ebike battery in a big plastic enclosure meant for external mounting. I asked what we could do about the mixup because they had initially confirmed that this was a custom battery to fit under the Z1 seat. Never got a response. Of course, I could possibly disassemble the battery they sent and work to make it fit but that wasn't the point. Brick never responded.
Now I'm also on the hunt for a good battery replacement as well. I'll post if I find one.
@RunplayBack What city are you in bro because I would like for you to upgrade my Juiced Bikes City Scrambler for me.
I'm in Michigan
@runplayback was there a different battery link before? I can’t seem to find the same one that you used in the video thank you
The one I used in the video was discontinued. I linked a reputable battery manufacturer who can build a custom one instead.
Hi, wanted to know if I upgrade the stock controller with display to the 48v can I use my stock battery or do I also have to upgrade the battery? Only asking because the battery is not available anymore. Thx and nice video
Yes you can upgrade to the controller and display with the stock battery. You'll just need Deens plugs instead of XT3's.
Do u know another source for the 48v battery I can buy? The link u put is no longer available. Thx for your response
@@jonathanhang9482 yup check out Lite Speed Bikes - a little more expensive but they are super reputable and custom made in the US - litespeedbikes.mybigcommerce.com/18650-battery-packs/