What about using what Architects used to use many moons ago, when drawings were done with pencils, an air eraser (basically a micro sandblaster), load it with baking soda?
Have tried the masking tape and not sure why but that doesn't work well with my S1 40W xtool. Have tried multiple times and I get some bleeding underneath it. Probably I am doing something wrong. What type of paper are you using?
Good question!! We currently do not have a video on this, but will look into it in the near future. For the time being, you can ask our Technical Support Team for tips and tricks or join our Facebook Group to ask other users.
As I mentioned above, the simple answer is to not make it brown in the first place. Take a look at this video to get tips and methods for fume-free leather and hide engraving/cuttingh. ua-cam.com/video/U3U_aTeUAFs/v-deo.html
Do you sometimes use borax or baking soda to darken the engraving? If so can you also use mr eraser/sponge or will it completely remove the darkening again? Thank you for the great video!
When you apply liquid borax to wood it coats only a few layers of wood fibre close to the suface. When you engrave, you only need a very short exposure time by using fairly low power but quite high speed. The colour does not come from the normal wood scorching mechanism but by evapoaring those surface wood fibers.. Remember that the borax coating will only be a few fibers deep and what happens is that those fibers disappear (vaporize) and leave behind a delicate exoskeleton of dark mealloid boron where each fibre used to be. That silvery black exoskeleton is fragile and easily smudgesd, so dont rub it with anything. If you have brown fumes then you are using to much power or not running fast enough. When you have mastered the art of fume-free engraving with borax you should immediatey support that fragile exoskeleton by spraing with a clear varnish. You may wish to watch this to see more about the process ua-cam.com/video/7pFuW1zPkkg/v-deo.html
How do I clean the cut side?
Bit late but the magic eraser has polishing compounds in it rather than just the texture of the sponge.
how do you clean sides of the cut pieces? for me the hardest part to sand is sides of every piece. any recommendation for that?
I love how u guys are coming out with more videos
More to come!! Subscribe and keep an eye out for future content.
What about using what Architects used to use many moons ago, when drawings were done with pencils, an air eraser (basically a micro sandblaster), load it with baking soda?
Background noise is much too loud!
We appreciate your feedback!
where can i get that tape? i tried different tapes and they dont work.
Have tried the masking tape and not sure why but that doesn't work well with my S1 40W xtool. Have tried multiple times and I get some bleeding underneath it. Probably I am doing something wrong. What type of paper are you using?
Hi! Thanks for sharing this. It's a big help. What machine are you using?
does the masking tape not leave any sticky residue inside the engraving?
Keep these videos coming! Great tips!
We appreciate the kind feedback!!
Excellent! I think the sanding looked better than the magic eraser. Which grit did you use?
what wood do you use?
Would be interested to know what methods you have for cleaning up leather after engraving?
Good question!! We currently do not have a video on this, but will look into it in the near future. For the time being, you can ask our Technical Support Team for tips and tricks or join our Facebook Group to ask other users.
As I mentioned above, the simple answer is to not make it brown in the first place. Take a look at this video to get tips and methods for fume-free leather and hide engraving/cuttingh.
ua-cam.com/video/U3U_aTeUAFs/v-deo.html
Do you sometimes use borax or baking soda to darken the engraving? If so can you also use mr eraser/sponge or will it completely remove the darkening again? Thank you for the great video!
When you apply liquid borax to wood it coats only a few layers of wood fibre close to the suface. When you engrave, you only need a very short exposure time by using fairly low power but quite high speed. The colour does not come from the normal wood scorching mechanism but by evapoaring those surface wood fibers.. Remember that the borax coating will only be a few fibers deep and what happens is that those fibers disappear (vaporize) and leave behind a delicate exoskeleton of dark mealloid boron where each fibre used to be. That silvery black exoskeleton is fragile and easily smudgesd, so dont rub it with anything. If you have brown fumes then you are using to much power or not running fast enough. When you have mastered the art of fume-free engraving with borax you should immediatey support that fragile exoskeleton by spraing with a clear varnish. You may wish to watch this to see more about the process
ua-cam.com/video/7pFuW1zPkkg/v-deo.html
@@SarbarMultimedia I am overwhelmed in the best way with this answer, and have now subscribed to your video newsletter for more
is this just raster.