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Chopping Corn on Wet Ground
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2017
- Finally, we shall show you the chopper in action after all the fixing videos. The wetness didn't last much more than a day since we hadn't had rain for over two weeks. Filmed October 10.
Jacob that is some wet ground and nice to see the chopper in action.
I feature the wettest spot in the field.
First, and I love the older equipment you guys use.
We're glad you like it.
I agree! I enjoy watching the farms with the older stuff and limited budget far more than the fancy pantsy ones. Farm on!
@@jamisgood21 Yeah... ANYBODY can sign a note and get a shiny new combine or tractor or equipment... the ability to blow money doesn't impress me at all... I'd MUCH rather watch guys that know what they're doing and know how to make money with cheaper, older stuff... OL J R :)
Watching him steer that chopper reminds me of driving my old dodge down the road LOL. Those tires sure do work well in that wet ground too.
The rice tires laugh at mud. I have known a few chrysler products that have chase steering.
Good video. I just love to see (and hear) that New Holland chopper running.
The straight pipe 3208 is loud!!!!!
gotta love that NH chopper
Yep, me too.
Chopper sounds like it’s running good. I have some tile issues in a spot too. It’s nice how flat it is, in the mountains the water usually runs off
I prefer fields with a gentle roll so the water goes away. Our clay holds water too well. In some areas near us, the slope is near zero and in the spring the fields are riddled with crawl dad mounds.
@@boehmfarm4276 Yep farmed black gumbo clay my entire life... Our soil map is all one color except for two small spots where there's a tiny bit of blow sand, basically patches not over 100 feet long and 30 feet wide on the whole farm. The Needville farm is pool table flat, it's 1/2 mile north and south long and it drops 3 feet from the north end to the south end. Why we farmed on raised beds and cut bar ditches across the ends of all our fields to drain the water to the road ditches! My BIL asked me about tiling when my wife and I first got married, and I laughed and asked him "what's that' because I'd never heard of it. The clay has SUCH slow infiltration rates and so little slope it'd be pointless to put in underground tile to drain it. TOTALLY unlike his northern Indiana soil-- I've seen his soil maps they look like a Chinese tax code paint-by-number monstrosity of some sort LOL:) I mean his soil changes every 3 feet in places, mostly rolling hills, but enough flatland to cause wet holes and such and need tiling in places. It's funny when I'm disking for him I can be down on the west side of a field 1/4 mile wide (if that) and be on heavy black soil (sandy clay loam-ish I'd say) and then at the other end of the field on a hilltop that is literally white BEACH SAND... disk sinks in a foot deep or so and has a Case 4890 with 8 tires on the ground scrambling and digging to pull it LOL:)
Our Shiner farm 100 miles west, we're mostly sandy loam and loamy sand to sandy soil... rolling hills and the high point of the 1/2 mile by 1/2 mile farm is 395 feet in altitude on the SW corner, and the lowest point on the NE corner is 225 feet IIRC... we've got a high plateau in the back, and two valleys, one in the middle of the farm, another ridgeline of hilltops between it, and then another broad valley across the front of the farm up to the road sitting basically on the flanks of the next ridgeline over... heavy sandy loam soil in the valleys, lighter sandier soil up on the hills... TOTALLY different soil to work than the clay at Needville, but FAR less water holding capacity and less productive (this area also gets only 36 inches of rain a year, where Needville gets 46 inches... big difference there too...
Later! OL J R :)
That's a cool NH chopper. New Holland makes good forage equipment. No doubt.
Yep, that's why all our hay equipment is New Holland.
Yes sir!
This is good 🙃 better than 🙂TV 👍🏻ur videos are great frog hollow farm curt Weatherbee 🐝
Thank you.
You can save a few steps and seconds by tying a rope to the pin so you can unhook the wagon from the tractor seat. Could do it on the chopper, too.
Yes, dumb thing is, we can never keep a handle on a hitch pin. Somehow, all the 3/4' pins, the biggest size that fit the wagons, have been used on the haybine, whose hitch design can pop the handles off after a few hours of making right hand turns.
@@boehmfarm4276 Oh yeah those bail handles are just about worthless on pins... we used a LOT of pins pulling cotton trailers and always the same story-- bail handles busted off and gone. I started making my own pins. I start with my collection of trailer pins with the missing bail handles. I grab some long bolts (just about any size will do, 3/8-1/2 works best, about 4-6 inches long, but basically any smooth steel rod about that size can work if you don't have a selection of unused long bolts laying around, and broken bolts or ones with unusable threads are also fine for this). I weld the bolt head to the top of the pin, sticking straight up. Then I heat the bolt with a torch bright red about 1.5-2 inches above the bolt head, and bend it over 90 degrees to make a handle. Usually the underside of the pin head is kinda mangled from lolling around in egg-shaped or oversized holes, so I usually weld a flat washer to the underside of the pin's head by sliding it up the pin and running a bead around the pin head onto the washer to weld them together. I don't bother with stupid hairpins or those fancy schmancy "locking" hitch pins with various gimmicks to lock them in, like the ones with the fold-down handle that 'locks" the pin in the hole. What I do is, I weld some light 3/16 welded link chain (the cheap light stuff from TSC) to the bolt directly above where the bolt head is welded to the pin, by welding a link upright against the part of the bolt between the head and 90 degree bend making the "handle". Then I cut the chain off about a foot long. I pick up some of those cheap carabiners at TSC, but just about any latching clip will do, even quick links (screw together chain links) if you're worried about stuff catching and pulling on the chain. I clip this to the welded on link, and leave the rest loose. When I hitch up, I just wrap the chain around behind the pin where it sticks out the bottom hole, around the clevis hitch of the trailer, and back up to the carabiner/clip, and snap the chain into the link fairly snug but not tight... there's NO WAY the pin can pull up out of the hole and come unhitched (unless you hook the chain WAY WAY too loose) and the chain is flexible enough to allow everything to move some without binding. The handle makes the pin EASY to pull even if the pin is in a bind, like parked on an incline or in a hole pushing against the tractor or truck or machinery its hitched to... and it's quick and easy to unhitch as well... I replaced the pin on my baler that used a nut threaded on bottom to make sure it didn't come loose (from the factory) which would be very ponderous to unhitch if the baler caught fire, before it burned the tractor down too... I replaced it with one of my home-rebuilt pins and they work great... if the baler ever caught fire, I could unsnap the carabiner to release the chain and jerk the pin straight out with the stout handle, and drive the tractor away in no time, letting the hoses pop loose from the quick disconnects and the driveline slide apart, and save the tractor.
I've NEVER had one of these pins break or come loose, even on extremely heavy and bouncing equipment like fertilizer applicators and stuff that hammer the pins back and forth and up and down really hard... I even shot a video awhile back on how to make them on my channel, back fall of last year or early spring IIRC...
I don't know why they don't sell them... Later! OL J R : )
Great video lil muddy lol
Yep, no waiting for dry ground.
Good video. Looks muddy and I'm surprised you didn't get stuck in the mud
Don't underestimate the power of rice tires!
What are rice tires and what do they look like?
They are tires with very deep tread. and usually a slightly wider gap between bars.
@@JasonShipley1979 They're the ones on his 2910 Ford tractor and now the silage chopper... very deep treads, very high tread bars, spaced wider apart, and usually with a more aggressive tread like an extended V at the front of each tread bar. They were developed for use on rice tractors and combines because rice is flooded to grow during the season (several times) and usually the ground is deep, soft, wet, often water-standing MUD when the rice is combined... so they needed tires that could keep the combine from getting stuck, and auger cart tractors moving through the fields to and from the combines.
The only downside is, they ride MUCH rougher than "regular" tractor tires... they'll about beat you to death on the road moving between farms/fields... And they wear off MUCH MUCH faster on the road than regular tractor tires. While they have MORE traction in soft, wet, muddy conditions, they actually have LESS traction in dry firm soil, and tend to suffer a lot more wheel slippage in heavy draft work on firm dry soil, like tillage. Later! OL J R : )
I haven't seen a wagon that old in a long time
We keep the old ones going.
Hey just fix broken tile or do you have to run a new line. Diversify and make it for muddies Atv, trucks and so on. You be raking in the $$$ New Holland and Johnny like the mud glad they are not fighting.
It's old clay tile under the field. We tried patching it once, but then it collapsed not far down the line again. They are going in a straight line, don't try to make a turn in mud like that. The wagon will pull the chopper around.
When did you guys get enough rain to make all that mud? We’re still dry as a popcorn fart up here in Northeast Ohio.
That muddy spot probably didn't dry out all summer. And we got three quarters of an inch two days before. In drought years, we are typically golden on water holding capacity in the soil.
Good video. Why don’t you guys use a high dump wagon?
I have never seen one close to us. I guess we wouldn't have to leave our seats, but there's still the time of dumping and pulling up close.
maybe you should bite the bullet and retwig the head so you get 3 rows instead of 2, it should cut your work time by a 1/3 and maybe your fuel consumption by 1/4,
The compaction sucks but I dont know if getting a lighter chuck wagon or one with balloon tyres is an option.
I have a running gear with flotation tires that could be borrowed. At least in this field, by the time we went down and back cutting two rows, the wagon would be full.
I guess it's great and good food for the cattle.
Yeah silage is about the best cattle feed you can get. High protein, high nutrient density, usually high energy content (sugar and starch), and high digestibility. That's why dairies use it so much-- it's like rocket fuel for cows, particularly for livestock producing milk (dairy cattle) and for fast gain on beef calves being fattened up for slaughter. It's good feed for regular beef cows too, but given that their nutritional needs are lower, usually it's cheaper to just feed hay and a little supplement as needed, and grazing. Why you don't see many beef cow/calf operations using it, unless they're finishing beef cattle as well. Hay is just cheaper, but the energy content is usually quite a bit lower, as is protein and nutrient content. BUT you just feed more of it, or supplement as needed or continue grazing to supplement the hay, or a combination of the three.
Once fermented in the silo, silage will hold up pretty darn well too, where unless hay is in the barn, it suffers a lot of weather damage/loss over time.
Later! OL J R :)
Yall cut silage off at the ground?? Most of the silage I've seen cut across the Midwest they cut off about 6 inches to a foot above the ground, and leave stalks behind.. usually shorter than behind a corn head on a combine, but still way more stalk stumps left behind. I guess yall are trying to get maximum tonnage and just take it all off as low as you can? We don't cut silage in our area (SE TX) but I've read about it and seen it done in the Midwest and I seem to remember reading there's very little feed value in that lower foot of stalk anyway so I presume that's why most guys cut it higher? Just curious always trying to learn something new... OL J R :)
We leave about six inches. If you don't see and stalk left, we're either sinking in our having head issues.
What year is the chopper? Do you know of any other JD 112 or 115 chuck wagons for sale by you?
It from the early half of the 70's. I haven't seen one for sale close to us in a long time.
thats some tall ass corn....
Yep, more for silage. It is marketed as a tall variety, which could mean more plant for photosynthetic power to fill grain. I planted the same variety for grain. We bought it through rural king.
o ok cool. gotta like rural king.. :)
Wow your ground does look like it has a bit of clay to it how long would that take to dry out about a couple of weeks
It depends on how wet you want it. The really muddy spot is a tile collapse, so it's not dry for much of the summer. Dry down after rain can take a couple days to drive on.
how is that corn that green in late October? Your in Indiana right?
This was filmed October 7. We planted June 15 and the variety has excellent stay green. We are in southwest Ohio.
Do you ever think you’ll upgrade silage choppers
We don't necessarily chop enough silage to justify this machine,
why are you not using the full width of the pickup
We only chop two rows because the head is set for narrow rows, and we still plant wide. Since the head isn't broken, we haven't the time to change the width. And other factors like field length and wagon capacity don't support the need to cut three rows.
Nice corn but not really clean do you farm organic?
Economic thresh hold. Yep there's weeds, but the cost of spraying again wouldn't make any crop gain. Nope, too much work to certify and find enough manure to fertilize.
Do you guys milk cows
No. They raise Bull calves and a variety of produce. I believe
Yep, what he said; ten acres of sweet corn, a couple acres of vegetables, a greenhouse, 45 Holstein steers from bottles to freezer beef and between Dad and I, a couple hundred acres of row crops, 150 egg layers and a few hundred broilers.
I think it's good you didn't douse your fields in pesticides. I'm not a hippy scum by any means, but I don't like seeing abuse of herbicides/pesticides.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
Why do you run so slow when your chopping?And why do you hate the John Deere silage wagon so much they have the toughest wagon right after Gehl?
We'll never plug that way, and compared to our previous chopper, this is much faster. We were chopping with a New Holland 707 mounted on the three point.
There isn't much tough about the wagon, the rear axle fell out a few years ago while it was empty. The floor supports keep needing more welding to hold in place and the tongue is incredibly too short. Oh, and it's just over weight for it's size. Our red silage wagon floats like a butterfly.
Boehm Farm to be honest with you Gehl has the best wagon in my opinion and John Deere is really good for the simplicity and I heard you say that the auger was a good design yes and no one thing is they are extinct around here and another is they don’t pitch the silage out into say a bagger or blower
@@limestonehilldairy5739 Gehl got out of the farm equipment business about 15 years or so ago... I have a Ford 552 (built by Gehl, model 1500) round baler and have to scrounge at a former Gehl dealer for parts, as NH basically don't support parts anymore. Gehl parts are hard to find because according to the laws they only have to supply parts for 7 years after they quit the ag business. SO yeah you can buy used Gehl wagons and Gehl made some fine equipment (their mowers and stuff were REALLY nice and their newer balers were good too-- if they still made them I'd have probably bought one by now!) I don't know WHY they quit the ag business but they did-- just construction equipment and skid steers IIRC anymore...
I'd think twice about buying ANYTHING Gehl because WHERE are you gonna get parts if they're not making them anymore and don't have to provide parts support?? You break something proprietary you can't get anywhere else and can't run without or work around some "fix" to replace it, and you've basically got scrap iron... OL J R :)
Use the 1466 but take the duals off
We'll be taking the duals off soon. Brad decided it was too wide for pulling gravity wagons on the road.
Boehm Farm OK thanks
And why don’t you like John Deere choppers?
I just don't like anything green. I haven't seen a JD chopper for sale anywhere close to me.
Boehm Farm if I had a video of our old 3940 running I’d email it to you if you didn’t care I’m gonna chop about 20 acres of corn this year with a 38 John Deere can I email that to you
Sure, send me the video.
Boehm Farm alright do you have Facebook if so I’ll send you the video that way
Yep
Your too close to the chopper while it’s operating. Safety first man! Also there is a reason why it says “No riders”. It’s not safe. I saw one of your videos of you riding on top of the combine cab and it jerked and you could have fell on the head. That’s not a pleasant thought. You can get good video from a safe distance. That is all.
Perspective gives variety. I know the view from the operator seat, and aerial views are neat for a while. Let's just say my mother calls me a monkey. I did and with enough reason or motivation still can climb all over everything in the barn. It's extremely easy to walk down the auger on the K from the cab door to the engine.
Easy isn’t always the best way farming is dangerous your momma would miss you