I popped in to see if I could manually open the valve to test if it were bad. You end the video with "I hope this helped." it did. Super informative and I learned a lot. Love the expanding wax liner drive. That is slick.
Thank you so much! I switched out an oil boiler with a propane combi. After the switch over one of the zone was barely heating. After watching your video I figured the valve head was twisted a bit and seated it properly. Now I have heat in all zones. Great Video! Thank you again!!!
Excellent description what I have been noticing with a valve head I’m working on, same exact model. The actuator lever is very difficult to move even with 24 V at the valve. I had to kind of force it into the manual position to get heat. I will be replacing the valve head, I’m under the impression when the valve is energized, and the actuator drives the piston, the lever should move freely indicating the valve is fully opened. Unless I’m mistaken?
If the power head isn’t fully flush to the base, in other words the pins aren’t fully in will it not work?? Was not getting heat on second floor and noticed the he power head has a gap between the head and base. Pin wasn’t fully in the hole so took off and put on fully. Now have heat, could it have been that simple?
Possibly, the powerhead has a plunger that pushes into the valve body to open the valve. If the head is not anchored, it will just push the head away instead of opening the valve. If you have heat, that was obviously the problem sometimes though the heads, will loosen and unhook themselves, I know that sounds strange, but it does happen. if it happens again, you will have to replace the powerhead.
So where I’m lost is if you have a 40va transformer feeding thermostat and R 24 v to terminal 1 and terminal 2 is common. 3 is apart of TT but that diagram looks like TT and the 40 VA transformer cross. I thought that would be like crossing two transformers then?
Those wires are after the load so it doesn’t effect the voltage. Its similar to connecting all the white wires (common wires) together in your house wiring together. USA 120 volt AC.
Normally if the lever moves freely then the thermostat is calling and the zone valve is open. You can test this by putting a voltmeter on terminal one and two and you should read 24 V. Or turn down your thermostat and after a few minutes check to see if the lever only goes about halfway and then you feel resistance, then you know the valve is closed. It is possible the zone valve body is stuck open. it would be extremely rare but it could happen.
I popped in to see if I could manually open the valve to test if it were bad. You end the video with "I hope this helped." it did. Super informative and I learned a lot. Love the expanding wax liner drive. That is slick.
Thank you so much! I switched out an oil boiler with a propane combi. After the switch over one of the zone was barely heating. After watching your video I figured the valve head was twisted a bit and seated it properly. Now I have heat in all zones. Great Video! Thank you again!!!
Best explanation ever😊
THANK YOU> You are the BEST describer of things. LOVE this video.
Excellent description what I have been noticing with a valve head I’m working on, same exact model. The actuator lever is very difficult to move even with 24 V at the valve. I had to kind of force it into the manual position to get heat. I will be replacing the valve head, I’m under the impression when the valve is energized, and the actuator drives the piston, the lever should move freely indicating the valve is fully opened. Unless I’m mistaken?
The lever should move freely when the valve is open. If it doesn’t move freely then the valve body is sticking or the lever itself has an issue.
Thank you !
Thank you for the information.
If the power head isn’t fully flush to the base, in other words the pins aren’t fully in will it not work??
Was not getting heat on second floor and noticed the he power head has a gap between the head and base. Pin wasn’t fully in the hole so took off and put on fully. Now have heat, could it have been that simple?
Possibly, the powerhead has a plunger that pushes into the valve body to open the valve. If the head is not anchored, it will just push the head away instead of opening the valve. If you have heat, that was obviously the problem sometimes though the heads, will loosen and unhook themselves, I know that sounds strange, but it does happen. if it happens again, you will have to replace the powerhead.
Than, you for "Date code" location. Afraid to look at mine. Might be from the 1800's.
So where I’m lost is if you have a 40va transformer feeding thermostat and R 24 v to terminal 1 and terminal 2 is common. 3 is apart of TT but that diagram looks like TT and the 40 VA transformer cross. I thought that would be like crossing two transformers then?
Those wires are after the load so it doesn’t effect the voltage. Its similar to connecting all the white wires (common wires) together in your house wiring together. USA 120 volt AC.
IF THE LEVER MOVES FREELY NO RESISTANCE???
Normally if the lever moves freely then the thermostat is calling and the zone valve is open. You can test this by putting a voltmeter on terminal one and two and you should read 24 V. Or turn down your thermostat and after a few minutes check to see if the lever only goes about halfway and then you feel resistance, then you know the valve is closed. It is possible the zone valve body is stuck open. it would be extremely rare but it could happen.
@@scotttaylor3049 valve body stuck in the open position sprayed some w40 hit with hammer and started working thank you
If you open the valve manually by pushing it to the left against the resistance . Can you then turn it off my moving it back to the right?
@@Fireneedsair yes as long as the thermostat is not calling