Hey mate au falcon v8 idle control valve, is the valve meant to be closed. Ive pulled mine off for a clean but the valve is open. Cleaning wasn’t successful it has a horrible idle runs fine otherwise
I'm sure I had this problem with a company Ford Focus 2005 1.6. Went into the local dealer three times before they sorted it. It was a very intermittent fault but the engine would cut just as you moved away. Not too clever if it was a busy road junction. Great video as usual Gerard, very well explained.
This video reminds me of the times I would stall going through intersections. Replaced the IACV and the problem was still there. While disconnecting the air intake hose I noticed fuzzy stuff clogging the screen that is located right before the MAF sensor. Rodents had chewed up my newly installed air filter and there's your problem. 1994 Nissan pickup. Now I use 1/2 inch screen on places where those guys can get in, eg. air vents for the heater.
I have a 2014 Ford Focus with an annoying intermittent problem. It drops revs to 200 then bounces back up to 1000 on start up engine warm/cold and when driving “ revs drop to around 200 and slows down” have had the aux and timing belt changed already. Any help would be appreciated
I have a problem with my 2012 Ford Fiesta, 1,25L, petrol, manual transmission, 140K. Upon cold start (or rarely during the day), it would rev up to about 2000 RPMs; the arrow would become slightly erratic and I can hear the engine fluxing, obviously.… The car starts up fine though, but I can feel slight power gaps between shifts as I begin movement. And then, when I come to a complete stop (at a stop sign, for instance), the car would just die - quietly, no jerks, no violent displays - the engine just shuts off. I can restart it easily and continue driving with no problem, no power gaps, like nothing happened. Could it be the problem you're describing (awesome vid, by the way)? I see no warning lights when the RPMs increase initially, no error codes (I took it to a Ford dealership once to have it diagnosed by an authorized Ford service, but they couldn’t find anything and told me that since “the car is not doing it now, there’s not much they can do”). Can you recommend a course of action, please?
Maybe a different part number, but they use the same ones on the Falcon motors - same failure points. I think these ones use a duty cycle signal to open. Thanks for sharing 😊
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Looks like you got it sorted. Just clean it up and stick it back in the vehicle! 😉 All good! It's good to get the kids involved as well.
@@mannysgarageI just replaced the IACV on my 2003 Focus SVT. Unfortunately it still occasionally stalls out coming to a stop if I just push the clutch and coast. I also cleaned the throttle body. Not sure what the next step is?
@jameshubbard7538 yup, I took mine out cleaned it well and still does it at stops. I haven't messed with it again because it's been over 100° every day for the last 2 months in TX lol I hardly use it because of that issue.
I've got a 2010 focus spirt had a new throttle body fitted same problem, just been to a different garage and they're saying this part is not on your car, but still having problems with the car cutting out any advice ?
Hi great video Im trying to diagnose my problem. Ita hard for a total novice driver like myself tho 09 Focus Drives fine but when Im coming to a halt at traffic lights for example. I slow down to stop, the engine completely cuts out DEAD on me! Now, my observations on WHEN it occurs . It happens say, 25% of the time But it happens 100% of the time when I have the AC turned on (having it on more lately due to clear windscreens due to winter weather) Explaining this to so called car experts at work, they say confidently I need to replace my battery but researching online, battery problems usually lead to lots of things I am NOT experiencing tho. Such as dimming headlights, radio cutting in/out, windows working poorly etc. none of this happens. Got me looking at IAC, cleaning the throttle, cleaning fuel injectors, replacing fuel pump etc. just all over the place now! 🤦🏻♂️ Thanks for reading! Any help will be greatly appreciated as I am seriously sick of my engine cutting out! Its doing late at night in built up areas with low visibility which is starting to become quite dangerous coz I can be turning into a junction, and it will cut out because I have slowed down, so Im left STOPPED in the middle of a busy road and the junction im turning into! It cutting out approaching traffic lights is TOLERABLE, but not when Im turning into junctions man!! Again, THANKS!!! Merry Christmas & all the BEST every one! 🍺
I currently have issues with my Ford focus 2.0l convertible so far no mechanic has found the issue one said fuel pump but after £395 later it’s still doing it and that’s jolting while driving and like you said when slowing down to lights roundabouts etc then it will stall but I know it’s gonna happen if it starts jolting first I really don’t know whatelse todo as seems that the mechanics don’t want to test things to rule things out rather than say swap this part or that part and we’re go from there! Grr 😖 any advice would be appreciated many thanks
Did you get it fixed? If not you maybe check out your fuel pressure sensor. I just watched a video on this where the fuel pressure sensor was telling the car it had too much fuel pressure so the computer would tell the fuel pump to stop pumping as much fuel and the vehicle would stall. The sensor was faulty, causing the vehicle to essentially starve itself of gas.
nice one, Gerard ever used twist ratchets i love them, twist the handle clockwise, anticlockwise or just use it like a fixed handled ratchet, good for tight spaces
Honestly I have thought about buying a Facom one a year or 2 ago and since have completely forgotten they exist. would be useful on this job for sure :) My be another tool on the long long wish list for Santa
*TAKE NOTE* i had stalling and idle issues when coming to stops/in idle and when i removed the ICV it would still move when energized and had proper ohms when checked with multimeter however mine seemed dirty. I ended up just replacing it because all the symptoms just made sense but i almost didn't because of it doing what it seemed to supposed to when bench tested, i assume maybe with how dirty it was it wasn't opening fully as it maybe should have or would start to close when it wasn't supposed to due to a internal electric fault in the valve or gunked up, i assume, now it idles nice and consistent and after a few test drives with stops/goes it has not stalled, fingers crossed. hoping this may help someone who almost rules out the icv cause it bench tested good but still have text book ICV symptoms, these are also common on e46s and usually can get away with cleaning them, might be worth a shot on the fords as well if in a pinch. Fingers crossed!!!!
Hey, can you gives an update? I am experiencing the same issues Ford Focus mk1 1.6 gasoline engine. I've cleared the throttle body and the ICV, tested the ICV with 12volts and getting good response, overall looks clean inside. I've cleaned the MAP sensor, new plugs, cables, ignition coil and the problem still persist.
Yes, mine needs an IAC My 2002 Focus Zetec 2.0 DOHC idle hangs too high, too long, then comes down and gets rough. The hanging is the IAC bleeding in too much air, for too long, makes ECU think lean, so after a certain threshold of adding fuel, say 25% or so on the fuel trims, will eventually set a P0171. Mine took like a week to actually set the code.
its also important to get the Oem part instead aftermarket on these. Most aftermarket ones are junk, not made to Oem specs at all, causing high or hanging idle. There are maybe only 2 brands in those 30 aftermarket parts that works like the Oem.
Hey I have that exact same problem and I'm thinking maybe this is it I'm going to go ahead and replace it they're not too expensive and see what happens did you ever change yours or fix the problem I'll let you know what happens with mine
@@ricku4856 I feel you man I'm about to do the same thing but just wanted to try a few things to see if anything would help and thank you for the reply have a good one
Definitely iacv ! But when replacing becarefull when buying aftermarket iacv, most of them doesnt work like the Oem part. also causing high or hanging rpm. Before changing this part clean the throttlebody and reset the Ecu.
OUTSTANDING Vidya! Thanks for making it "Simple"!
thank you the air control valve with a better battery solve the problem car starts and run like new
Good job
Hello, What is the correct position of the piston ? closed ? or a little gap normal ? Thanks
Good job Gerard, Thank You:):)
Cheers Pat, appreciate it as always my man 🇮🇪🇮🇪🍀🍀
Do you happen to have a part number anywhere? Haven't found it in the description
Very interesting video mate 👍
Cheers Dennis, Very much appreciated :)
I have a similar problem but also my fuel pump relay seems to fail at the same time. Any ideas what this may be?
Hey mate au falcon v8 idle control valve, is the valve meant to be closed. Ive pulled mine off for a clean but the valve is open. Cleaning wasn’t successful it has a horrible idle runs fine otherwise
Thanks Gerard ji your English is easy to understand do bring some video on basic things if you can.
Thank you very much
I'm sure I had this problem with a company Ford Focus 2005 1.6. Went into the local dealer three times before they sorted it. It was a very intermittent fault but the engine would cut just as you moved away. Not too clever if it was a busy road junction. Great video as usual Gerard, very well explained.
Thanks very much Tony 🙏🙏💪💪
Can this cause an issue during start up? Mine will start to idle but when I press accelerator no response. Sometimes won't start
Are these on the mark 3 (2012) 1.6 zetech Focus also, as I have similar issues?
This video reminds me of the times I would stall going through intersections. Replaced the IACV and the problem was still there. While disconnecting the air intake hose I noticed fuzzy stuff clogging the screen that is located right before the MAF sensor. Rodents had chewed up my newly installed air filter and there's your problem. 1994 Nissan pickup. Now I use 1/2 inch screen on places where those guys can get in, eg. air vents for the heater.
I had the same problem on a civic and then i put a metal mesh on air intake and problem solved
I have a 2014 Ford Focus with an annoying intermittent problem. It drops revs to 200 then bounces back up to 1000 on start up engine warm/cold and when driving “ revs drop to around 200 and slows down” have had the aux and timing belt changed already. Any help would be appreciated
I have a problem with my 2012 Ford Fiesta, 1,25L, petrol, manual transmission, 140K. Upon cold start (or rarely during the day), it would rev up to about 2000 RPMs; the arrow would become slightly erratic and I can hear the engine fluxing, obviously.… The car starts up fine though, but I can feel slight power gaps between shifts as I begin movement. And then, when I come to a complete stop (at a stop sign, for instance), the car would just die - quietly, no jerks, no violent displays - the engine just shuts off. I can restart it easily and continue driving with no problem, no power gaps, like nothing happened. Could it be the problem you're describing (awesome vid, by the way)? I see no warning lights when the RPMs increase initially, no error codes (I took it to a Ford dealership once to have it diagnosed by an authorized Ford service, but they couldn’t find anything and told me that since “the car is not doing it now, there’s not much they can do”). Can you recommend a course of action, please?
Do you know where the location of these are on a 2003 ford fiesta?
Maybe a different part number, but they use the same ones on the Falcon motors - same failure points. I think these ones use a duty cycle signal to open.
Thanks for sharing 😊
All the clicking at the end of the video is on/off & on/off voltage switching.
My little ones enjoyed playing around with it too 😁
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage Looks like you got it sorted. Just clean it up and stick it back in the vehicle! 😉 All good!
It's good to get the kids involved as well.
Great video. My focus svt does the same thing as you described. I will be replacing it soon.
Did you sort it out? Mines is acting up
@@mannysgarage Haven't had the time. It's still acting up.
@@mannysgarageI just replaced the IACV on my 2003 Focus SVT. Unfortunately it still occasionally stalls out coming to a stop if I just push the clutch and coast. I also cleaned the throttle body. Not sure what the next step is?
@jameshubbard7538 yup, I took mine out cleaned it well and still does it at stops. I haven't messed with it again because it's been over 100° every day for the last 2 months in TX lol I hardly use it because of that issue.
My c max does same thing I'm hoping it's this as obd computer doesn't bring up a fault
Did it cause a code ?
I've got a 2010 focus spirt had a new throttle body fitted same problem, just been to a different garage and they're saying this part is not on your car, but still having problems with the car cutting out any advice ?
Sport
Hi great video
Im trying to diagnose my problem. Ita hard for a total novice driver like myself tho
09 Focus
Drives fine but when Im coming to a halt at traffic lights for example. I slow down to stop, the engine completely cuts out DEAD on me!
Now, my observations on WHEN it occurs .
It happens say, 25% of the time
But it happens 100% of the time when I have the AC turned on (having it on more lately due to clear windscreens due to winter weather)
Explaining this to so called car experts at work, they say confidently I need to replace my battery but researching online, battery problems usually lead to lots of things I am NOT experiencing tho. Such as dimming headlights, radio cutting in/out, windows working poorly etc. none of this happens.
Got me looking at IAC, cleaning the throttle, cleaning fuel injectors, replacing fuel pump etc. just all over the place now! 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for reading! Any help will be greatly appreciated as I am seriously sick of my engine cutting out! Its doing late at night in built up areas with low visibility which is starting to become quite dangerous coz I can be turning into a junction, and it will cut out because I have slowed down, so Im left STOPPED in the middle of a busy road and the junction im turning into! It cutting out approaching traffic lights is TOLERABLE, but not when Im turning into junctions man!!
Again, THANKS!!! Merry Christmas & all the BEST every one! 🍺
Did replacing your IAC solve the issue? Your car seems to have the same issue as mine…
I currently have issues with my Ford focus 2.0l convertible so far no mechanic has found the issue one said fuel pump but after £395 later it’s still doing it and that’s jolting while driving and like you said when slowing down to lights roundabouts etc then it will stall but I know it’s gonna happen if it starts jolting first I really don’t know whatelse todo as seems that the mechanics don’t want to test things to rule things out rather than say swap this part or that part and we’re go from there! Grr 😖 any advice would be appreciated many thanks
Did you get it fixed? If not you maybe check out your fuel pressure sensor. I just watched a video on this where the fuel pressure sensor was telling the car it had too much fuel pressure so the computer would tell the fuel pump to stop pumping as much fuel and the vehicle would stall. The sensor was faulty, causing the vehicle to essentially starve itself of gas.
nice one, Gerard ever used twist ratchets i love them, twist the handle clockwise, anticlockwise or just use it like a fixed handled ratchet, good for tight spaces
Honestly I have thought about buying a Facom one a year or 2 ago and since have completely forgotten they exist. would be useful on this job for sure :)
My be another tool on the long long wish list for Santa
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage its endless, so is the storage, i have so many tools sometimes i wonder did i go crazy.
We all did 😂😂
This video is not for 2006 ford fusion sir ??
*TAKE NOTE* i had stalling and idle issues when coming to stops/in idle and when i removed the ICV it would still move when energized and had proper ohms when checked with multimeter however mine seemed dirty. I ended up just replacing it because all the symptoms just made sense but i almost didn't because of it doing what it seemed to supposed to when bench tested, i assume maybe with how dirty it was it wasn't opening fully as it maybe should have or would start to close when it wasn't supposed to due to a internal electric fault in the valve or gunked up, i assume, now it idles nice and consistent and after a few test drives with stops/goes it has not stalled, fingers crossed. hoping this may help someone who almost rules out the icv cause it bench tested good but still have text book ICV symptoms, these are also common on e46s and usually can get away with cleaning them, might be worth a shot on the fords as well if in a pinch. Fingers crossed!!!!
Hey, can you gives an update? I am experiencing the same issues Ford Focus mk1 1.6 gasoline engine. I've cleared the throttle body and the ICV, tested the ICV with 12volts and getting good response, overall looks clean inside. I've cleaned the MAP sensor, new plugs, cables, ignition coil and the problem still persist.
Does it work for 2010
Hi, is this related to code P0171? On Mk1 ford focus?
Yes, mine needs an IAC My 2002 Focus Zetec 2.0 DOHC idle hangs too high, too long, then comes down and gets rough. The hanging is the IAC bleeding in too much air, for too long, makes ECU think lean, so after a certain threshold of adding fuel, say 25% or so on the fuel trims, will eventually set a P0171. Mine took like a week to actually set the code.
I changed my and not it over accelerates it self I’ve tried 2 new ones but they do the same thing and can’t find the reason
its also important to get the Oem part instead aftermarket on these.
Most aftermarket ones are junk, not made to Oem specs at all, causing high or hanging idle.
There are maybe only 2 brands in those 30 aftermarket parts that works like the Oem.
This is impossible to do from top on USA model, a huge EGR apparatus blocks access.
Will this also cause a slight high idle after letting off the gas while the transmission is in park?
Hey I have that exact same problem and I'm thinking maybe this is it I'm going to go ahead and replace it they're not too expensive and see what happens did you ever change yours or fix the problem I'll let you know what happens with mine
@@franksmith2981 I did not. Car was a money pit. I cut my losses and sold it.
@@ricku4856 I feel you man I'm about to do the same thing but just wanted to try a few things to see if anything would help and thank you for the reply have a good one
Yes, my idle is hanging high for too long, it is the slow to close IAC bleeding in too much air.
Is it better to remove battery cable before discounting it?
definitely ! the Ecu has to relearn the new idle when doing this, otherwise the car will acclerate like crapp.
What does this valve do
Does this Work on fusion 2014? 😥
likely, is it the 2.5 4 cyl
still possible for it to be dirty and causing the idle issues even if it seems to operate when bench tested, try cleaning first?
Mine rpm hangs. Or when I stop it stays high rpm slowly drops.
Definitely iacv ! But when replacing becarefull when buying aftermarket iacv, most of them doesnt work like the Oem part.
also causing high or hanging rpm. Before changing this part clean the throttlebody and reset the Ecu.
Right always mechanical failure with no codes
Damm it's way in there like a Rat, i have a 2006 Focus and that's On top of Motor 😊
Il faut le faire tremper une bonne journée dans du WD40 bien le dégraisser à l'intérieur est c'est reparti comme en 40😂
When you list the ford cars you have worked on with this fault you would be convinced you are in the UK. I know this not to be the case now.
30 years plus years living in Ireland makes it easy to seem that way 🇮🇪🍀
Sunny Oz at the moment as you probably now know ☀️😎😉
Thanks for watching 🙏🙏
It's a car not caaaaa 😂
It's ford KA, not car
You laughing at what you don't know see your life now